powderlife magazine issue no.11

WINTER SPORTS ENTERTAINMENT REAL ESTATEissue 10 Dec 27 - Jan2008 11 13 26 9 2009

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i s rd skv Boa POWDERSHOWDOWN

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CROSS COUNTRY japans year in review NISEKO SURVIVAL GUIDE earn your avalanche stripes KUTCHAN KARAOKE sing up a storm in k-town

Nisekos powder lifestyle magazine fresh every two weeks

Sekka

ContentsGROOMERSNEWS PEOPLE PARTIES ETC 11 Page Seven // Village news and happenings 12 Cross Country // Offbeat news from across Japan 15 Niseko News // Be the first to know 16 News Feature // Darts tkes flight 18 Snap // Faces and fashion on the mountain 19 Flash // Nisekos nightlife and party scene 20 Nightlife // The day really begins aprs 21 In the loop // Whats on in Niseko 22 Powder Tools // Essentials for Niseko powder 24 Meet the locals // Introducing Niseko locals 25 Irrashaimase // Great little local businesses

FEATURES

A WAIST-DEEP LOOK AT NISEKO

winter print run 50,000+ publisher Bevan Colless managing editor Kristian Lund design Geoffrey McRoberts contributors Katherine Bont, Lorne Calhoun, Stirling

Goldman, Nick Jackson, Sarah Lilburn, Greg Lund, Chika Matsuda Tess Stomski, Matthew Thomas, Saoka Wakasugi photography Glen Claydon Photography, Niseko Photography, advertising inquiries

[email protected]/ subscriptions / past issues

26 32 36 44 49 51

SKIS VS BOARDS

The battle for pride place and powder. Its the eternal battle. To ski or to board? That is the question.

A THOUSAND WORDS

Gallery of the latest action from the slopes. No need for words - just look

NISEKO SURVIVAL GUIDE

How to survive in Nisekos vast, white and powdery backcountry

MEN WHO RIDE MOUNTAINS Q & A WITH EYAL AGMONI I STAND CORRECTEDBACKCOUNTRY

You better believe it, Sterling Goldmans back - and in even better form than ever

Moria mountain holding GK purchased the Moiwa ski resort. Powderlife finds out a bit more about their plans

By Graeme Glen, sales manager for West Canada Properties

[email protected] Powderlife Niseko Magazine is a Niseko Media Publication

HIKE OUT THE BACK FOR THE REST 35 Music Reviews // Andy Gulverhouse 38 Restaurant Review // Okonomiyaki Jyuu 40 Japanese Cooking // Okonomiyaki - as you like it! 42 Learning Japanese // Japanese for powder people 46 Kutchan // Kutchan Karaoke? Okey Dokey! 48 Real Estate News // The latest on property 53 On The Market // North Field Lodge 54 On The Market // Listings 56 Course Map // Mountain info 58 Walking Map // Must have village directory 59 Phone Directory // Your town pages 61 Local Information // Essential tips and info on Niseko 62 The Last Word On Health // Over protection

170-5 Aza Yamada Kutchan-cho Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081 tel 0136 22 2000 fax 0136 22 2011 www.powderlife.com 2008 Niseko Media KK Contents of Powderlife are subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publication of editorial does not necessarily constitute an endorsement of views or opinions expressed. The publisher does not accept responsibility for statements made by advertisers. Nisekos first English language periodical magazine published every two weeks in Niseko between December and March and once outside winter as Summerlife

cover Adrian Camp photographer Glen Claydon

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powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

editors note...EVERY year, people across the world dream of a white Christmas. In Niseko that white Christmas is guaranteed in spades usually spade-loads of powder snow you have to shovel off your front step on Christmas morning. This amazing snow that falls from the sky nearly every day in winter is just one thing that makes Niseko so great. In this issue we take a fresh look at a debate that has been raging since rebellious snowboarders started sliding down mountains which is better for powder skiing or boarding?? This is sure to stir up some controversy and were looking forward to it. We also take you on an avalanche safety course and introduce you to one of Japans favourite foods okonomiyaki. Plus all our regular columns, new and old.

... 1

We would like to start publishing readers letters, so if youve got anything on your mind, have any ideas for the magazine or website, or just want to tell us what a [email protected] fabulous place you think Niseko is, put it in an email to [email protected]. We hope you had a great Christmas and have a fantastic New Year in Niseko. See you on the slopes!

Kristian Lund, Powderlife Managing Editor [email protected]

[email protected]

Photo: Niseko Photography8 powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

page sevenBy Kristian Lund and Matthew Thomas

Slow start but bring on New YearFOR once the weather forecasters were right. The early seasonal outlook for Hokkaido and most of Japan was low snowfall and above average temperatures. We at Powderlife, and we guess many others in Niseko, chose to ignore these unimaginable predictions as were so often let down by the meteorological soothsayers. Well, for once they were spot on. At the time of this magazine going to press, solid weekly dumps of snow were being followed up by warm temperatures, turning any precipitation into a day or two of rain and washing away any gains that had been made. But fortunately, the New Year is upon us, and there is no better time to turn ones fortunes than now. The powder spells in between have been pretty amazing. And the rain will have aided in firming up the base for when the inevitable consistent snowfall arrives. Even in a bad season in Niseko we get up towards 10m of snowfall and there are always periods of weeks on end when it snows every day. A season can turn on its head within the period of a week, and theres a good chance that week is not too far away.

Kentucky Fried ChristmasIT seems in Japan the jolly old white-bearded man that everyone looks forward to seeing at Christmas in Japan isnt Santa, its Colonel Sanders. Such is the rush for KFC at Christmas that Japanese book their fried Chrissie chook ahead of time.

New Years Niseko styleTHE Japanese love a good celebration, and because Christmas is not such a big deal here, New Year (shogatsu or oshogatsu) goes off with a bang. Its perhaps the most important holiday in Japan and families typically get together to celebrate. In Niseko theres no shortage of events, so check out our events calendar on p21 for a few ideas on how to welcome in the New Year. There are celebrations at every ski resort in Niseko, but the main event happens at the base of Hirafu, on the slopes above the Kogen Hotel. Along with fireworks, live music and taiko drum performances, the most spectacular part of the night will be when more than 100 skiers and snowboarders carrying flaming torches high on the mountainside form the numbers 09, before skiing to the bottom. Not to be missed! January 1 is said to be a very auspicious day in Japan, best started by viewing the New Years first sunrise (hatsu-hinode) so long as you didnt drink too much of that free sake the night before!

DVD giveawaysWHILE skiing has always been the rich mans pasttime, snowboarding has very often been the opposite. In the late 80s and early 90s, young, free-spirited Japanese with little cash to buy lift passes and pay for fancy accommodation would travel to ski resorts and live out of their cars. They used onsen (public hot spring baths) for bathing and survived on one of the cheapest and tastiest meals known to man Japanese curry rice (which by the way we highly recommend for a lunch at local ski hill restaurants). They would cook the rice with rice cookers they plugged in to vending machines in resort car parks, and for that reason vending machines in Japan now come with non-standard plugs! Damn snowboarders This tradition of travelling and living out of cars is celebrated in Hokkaido filmmaker Neil Hartmanns classic Car Danchi snowboard movie series. Danchi means government-sponsored housing, and the premise behind the films is that all featured riders must be living out their cars while filming and travelling Hokkaido searching for perfect powder. Neil has given Powderlife a complete set of the Car Danchi movies parts 1, 2 and 3 to give away. To win, email a pic of a car buried in powder, like Chris Webbs above, to ed@ powderlife.com. Well print the winners pic in the next issue of Powderlife. Six runners up can win a Car Danchi 3 T-shirt.

Photos: Niseko Photography

Kamimura opens earlyYUICHI Kamimura former five-year apprentice for Sydneys famous celebrity chef, Tetsuya Wakuda is renowned locally for delectable dinners at his restaurant and caf, Kamimura. This season, Yuichi, who says he has almost spent his entire life in the kitchen, will be trying his deft hand at a gourmet breakfast menu, aimed at keeping at bay those hunger pains before a big day amongst the powder. The man who may just have the sharpest knife in Niseko is, for a second winter season at Kamimura, bringing his culinary prowess to Hirafus Upper Village, on the first floor of the Yamashizen West building. The breakfast offers a traditional northern Japanese experience, with Yuichi sourcing most of his carefully selected ingredients from Hokkaido. His delectable gourmet breakfast menu boasts a varied selection of tasty, western-style meals. All this can be washed down with a variety of refreshing coffees, teas, hot chocolates and juices. I have done dinners many times before, so I thought I would try something different and give gourmet breakfasts a go instead, says Yuichi. For those with a sweet tooth, Kamimura also tempts tantalisingly with rich chocolate cakes, and almond and white chocolate cookies. Breakfast is available now from 7.30am until 10am, while Kamimuras caf is also open for dine-in or take away until 3pm, and the restaurant starts serving from 6pm. The skills that sensei taught student must be good if the rumours are true; apparently Yuichis mentor, Tetsuya, refused celeb couple Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman entry to his world-famous restaurant, Tetsuyas, because there wasnt a spare table. Maybe Tom and Nic should try their luck in Niseko?

www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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cross countryOffbeat news from across japan

The Years BestResearchIn 2008, academics discovered that A 30cm-long, 130 million-year-old fossil unearthed in Ishikawa Prefecture belongs to the worlds oldest plant-eating lizard

distance delivery vehicles to zero-emission electric cars The number of motor vehicles owned in Japan declined for the first time since people began keeping track in 1946 The number of Japanese retailers who accept the China Pay credit card has risen 50 percent

Men and women of the yearThe worlds smallest walking robot

PollsSurvey takers discovered that The average female high school student uses her cellphone 124 minutes per day 97 percent of Japanese believe it is important to acquire the habit of reading in childhood 61 percent of Chinese feel that relations with Japan have improved, but just 10 percent of Japanese think so 40 percent of heavy smokers are unaware of their addiction 45 percent of Japanese feel uneasy about using the internet Over 40 percent of married couples in their 60s sleep in separate bedrooms 88 percent of Japanese describe themselves as happy

STATS44,700 Number of international marriages in Japan 27,700 Number of such marriages in 2005 69.2 Percent of plastic bottles that were recycled in fiscal 2007, an increase of 2.9 percent from 2006 294 New HIV cases reported in Japan from July to September, the highest quarterly figure ever

Menstrual blood can be used to repair heart damage Japanese households increased their energy consumption by 44 percent between 1990 and 2005 Thanks to heat island effect, the average January temperature in Tokyo rose 2.62 degrees during the Eighteen percent of inmates in the nations prisons past 50 years are 60 years old or older, compared to just 3 percent in 1975 Men who eat lots of fruits and vegetables are half as likely to suffer esophageal cancer as their junk foodDashi was and blu-ray were included in the latest eating brethren edition of Britains Chambers Dictionary East Asians tend to examine faces starting with the nose, whereas just about everyone else focuses on the Products eyes and mouth Hot items from 2008 include Genetics can account for the variances in physical Valentines chocolates flavored with garlic and traits between mainland and Ryukyuan Japanese, vinegar such as hair thickness and whether earwax is dry or wet A medicine cabinet that sets off an alarm when its time for senior citizens to take their pills There is a way to measure the brain waves of a cow to determine whether it is afflicted with BSE The Nose Mask Pit, an earplug-like device called that provides relief for hay fever sufferers Caffeine has the effect of relieving pain A printer that can develop still images captured from People who are either socially outgoing or high-definition video nonconformist tend to have higher obesity rates than average, while neurotics are skinner DoCoMos breathalyzer-enabled cellphone for truck drivers

Men of the Year(According to GQ Japan) Athlete: Swimmer Kosuke Kitajima, 26, won his second consecutive gold medal in the 100m breaststrokeand set his second consecutive world record in the process Business: Softbank CEO Masayoshi Son, 51, a.k.a. Japans richest man, remained a step ahead of his competitors by introducing Apples i-phone to Japan Producer/designer: Nigo, 37, impresario of hipster clothing label A Bathing Ape, celebrated the brands 15th anniversary by opening shops in LA and Paris Comedian: Hiroshi Tamura, 29, one half of manzai team Kirin, became an instant successand instantly richafter his book chronicling his years as a homeless youth flew off the shelves and became a TV series

Women of the Year(According to Vogue Nippon) Actress: Aoi Miyazaki, 23, won acclaim for her performance in NHKs historical drama Atsuhime and the films Kagehinata ni Saku (Flowers in the Shadows) and Yami no Kodomotachi (Children of the Dark) Athlete: Pitcher Yukiko Ueno, 26, led Japans softball team to a surprise gold medal over the US in Beijing Writer: Mieko Kawakami, 32, won the renowned Akutagawa Prize for her second novel, Chi Chi to Ran (Breasts and Eggs), which depicts the travails of a single mother Tarento: Suzanne, 22, gained fame for her convincing act as a baka (airhead) tarento while debuting in a music group and appearing in various TV series and variety shows

The year in numbers127,066,178 Japans population as of March 31, an increase of some 12,000 from the previous year and the first rise in three years 85.99 Life expectancy of Japanese women, an increase of 0.18 years from 2007 23 Consecutive years that Japanese women have topped the global life expectancy list >10,000 People who signed a condolence book at Ueno Zoo for the giant panda Ling Ling, who died in April at age 22

400 million Number of illegally downloaded music files each year in Japan

TrendsOver the past 12 months, it was noted that Chinese have surpassed Koreans as Japans largest minority group For the first time since 1979, a full 10 percent of Japans population resides in Tokyo Japan Post plans to convert its fleet of 21,000 short-

An electric bicycle that can travel 150km on a single charge Miso paste featuring beans that have been serenaded with the music of Johann Sebastian Bach A washable business suit An air purifier that eliminates over 99 percent of airborne bird flu virus in ten minutes

BLACK DIAMOND

Writer/Buddhist nun: Jakucho Setouchi, 86, crafted a Physicist: Yoichiro Nambu, 87, received a Nobel Prize modern take on the classic Tale of Genji and authored in physics along with two Japanese colleagues her own keitai shosetsu (cellphone novel). HF

Compiled from reports by Japan Today, The Japan Times, The International Herald Tribune/Asahi Shimbun, Mainichi Daily News, Time, AP, AFP and Kyodo

RESTAURANT & BAR GUIDINGJapanese & Western Cuisine Good Tunes, Vids, Drinks Free Shuttles (call for pickup) Private Terrain Park Pool Table

Where have you been this week?www.blackdiamondtours.com [email protected] 090-2054-868712 powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

Niseko Off-Piste Niseko Back Bowls Rusutsu Tours Kokusai Tours Kiroro Tours Backcountry

SKIER: JP AUCLAIR PHOTO: DAVID LEVIN

[email protected] www.bdlodge.com 0136-44-1144www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife 13

niseko newsShinya Katou (right), and below Alan, Wayne & Shin

Rail jam kicks off season of compsLOCAL boarders and skiers are getting ready for a night of clean lines and good times as the Aprs Bar and friends throw down a free ride rail jam. Kicking off at 5pm on December 28, it will be the first of a packed calendar of on-snow events this season. Local rippers are encouraged to sign up and take part, while spectators are encourage to head on in to the Aprs Bar where they can keep an eye on the proceedings from the floor to ceiling windows. The comp will be a free ride session, with riders and skiers judged on three runs. All skill levels are welcome and there will be prizes for the top three place getters, biggest slam, sickest style, and peer awards, all presented on the night. Entry is 1000 and each competitor receives two Red Bulls upon registration. Entry forms are available at Powderlife Caf and bars, retail outlets and restaurants around Hirafu, Hanazono, Higashiyama and Annupuri. The entry form needs to be filled out and taken to the Aprs Bar.

Paddys and Jam Bar boost Hirafu pub sceneTHE Hirafu pubscape has gone from strength to strength this year with all the old favourites returning, and several impressive new additions. Not be outdone by the lower village last season, which saw two new bars in Splash and The Brick, the upper village has this year stepped up to the plate. Paddy McGintys Irish Bar stands out like a beacon to thirsty skiers and boarders, located in the middle of the main street in the old building that housed the popular Big Cliff izakaya. Complete with Guinness shipped in from Dublin, the makeover is nothing short of spectacular as the rustic old restaurant has become an Irish bar to match any around the world (and maybe even outdo many in Ireland itself?!). Offering food and drink in a smoke-free environment daily from midday, it will be one of the first foreign-owned Hirafu entertainment venues to open year-round. Locals have applauded owners Roger Donazzon and Wayne Lazarus for the move as it adds another summer food and entertainment venue which will boost Hirafus perennial tourist appeal. Managing the bar is Irishman Alan Power who has worked in and run Irish pubs in Tokyo for the past 15 years, and moved to Niseko with his wife and two daughters especially to run the pub. Pub chef is local character Shin-san, who has worked for the Grand Hirafu resort and at one stage owned his own Italian restaurant. Shin-san is chairman and teacher at the local childrens mogul school and competed when he was young. Just a snowballs throw away from Paddys, old favourite the Jam Bar underwent a complete overhaul over the summer and has sprung up as a completely new building. Formerly just a tiny shack that would cram a few dozen drinkers in for late-night parties, its now an impressive building with an amazing new interior created by well-known local carpenter Kuwa-san, who also gave the Dragon Bar its incredible overhaul last year. Jam Bar has a funky mix of rainbow colours, wooden sculptures and furniture, all in a Mexican and Mediteranean style. It has to be seen to be truly appreciated. Owner Shinya Katou loves a good party and is famous for his Guru-Guru parties and 1000 nomihodais (all you can drink) that last until the alcohol runs out and he always makes sure he has enough to last almost until dawn.

Airline set to help promote NisekoJAPANS largest domestic air carrier All Nippon Airways (ANA) has signed an agreement with the Niseko Promotion Board (NPB) with the aim of attracting more domestic tourists to the region. Niseko was chosen above a variety of other Japanese resorts because of its natural beauty, great cuisine, and array of natural hot springs. The intention is to jointly develop and travel products and packages to summer visitors and yearround long-stay visitors. The ANA group is hoping to bolster its Hokkaido routes with the program using NPB's information, advice, and counsel to create travel packages targeting non-Hokkaido Japanese, in particular seniors, families, and women in their 20s and 30s. The sales points will be onsen, food and nature.


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niseko newsDarts takes flightFirst points on the boardand company can get involved in. Im just stoked to play darts we have created something that everyone enjoys, and thats just unreal! And whats not to like about strokes of genius in team-naming this year gems like Humphrey Bodart, By Matthew Thomas Pissed By The End, Pissed By The Start, Dart Vaders and, of course, Afraid Of The Dart (thatd be WITHOUT going too berserk on the puns, the third Powderlifes darts arm). The Mount Hotham-inspired annual Niseko Hirafu International Darts Grand Slam darts event (or so legend has it) this year even makes has really snowballed and taken flight this year. A Hirafu history with the first ever all-girl and allformidable 24 teams were the result of a bumper Japanese girl teams. It is really getting a good cross early December registration night at the seven-week section of the Hirafu community, boasts Matt tournaments home ground, Wild Bills (thats more proudly. than double last years team total, and barely Much to the entrants delight or dismay, the recognisable from the humble beginnings at Pow Pow infamous Paralyser bucket o booze appallingly Caf two years ago). Tournament instigators Matt and awaits the winners of each nights play, a drink Az from Niseko Photography have even had to turn arguably more effective than a tranquiliser dart in away unlucky, would-be dart-smiths for lack of space. taking down livestock. Thankfully, The Paralyser is Its already ballooned from being one night a week served after sharp objects stop flying through the air. for less than 10 teams in the first two seasons, to this This year, we move away from the milk-curdling, year spanning across three evenings on Tuesdays, racially sound Black and White Russian, and turn to a Wednesdays and Thursdays. Its nothing short of seemingly endless and potent Mohito-based bevvy, shoulder-to-shoulder as darts takes a stranglehold on starring 42 Belows feijoa vodka. Many agree this at Bills on game nights. drink should be fed to the loser, not the winner. The So, to what can we attribute this newfound Paralyser is designed to caress our taste buds, while penchant for lobbing glorified pins? Its because Az stinging us in the brain, says Az, sounding a fear of a and I are cultural landscape architects, a modest man once bitten, twice shy. Matt reveals to Powderlife. A perpetually pinkWild Bills owner Brett who admits to knowing beanied Az adds: I think because we hyped it up this nada about darts, besides the fact that the boards year, and there is nothing else to do here at the are round, and that he buys two new ones each year moment, he says. Everyone likes darts, because it is (pool is Bretts game) says the general mood for the only thing in the entire village that every person darts this year is off the Richter scale. No one has any cash to burn, and there is no damn snow, so darts is all that is keeping anything afloat here, chimes Brett, after the first round of matches earlier this month. Players are pretty serious this season there is no questioning that. All the company owners compete with each other in this village, but its nice to see them all gel and get along, even if its only for three nights a week. So, who will it be to knock last years premiers, Dart Attack, from the trophy mantle that since last years final has resided in Kutchans Caf Kaku? Who will walk away with all the glory and bragging rights for another season? Only time will tell. Let the crooked trash talk begin, but may your darts fly straight and true. READY, AIM, FIRE ... a virgin dart board. Photos: Niseko Photography

DART UP ... many try their hand each week.

INSTIGATORS... Az and Matt

GAME FACE ... some take their darts very seriously.

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Powderlife asked visitors what they will be doing on New Years Eve.

FLASH

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DISCO is not dead and fluoro is the future, scream Mitsuyuki Ohashis loud jacket and pants, which can be seen from great distances. The 25-year-old Osaka shredder recently graced Niseko with his fine fluorescent form, and was snapped by Powderlife making a rapid beeline down Hirafu in what can only be described as a bright blue, green, black, pink and yellow streak. There are many, many colours on my clothes and I like standing out, he says. People can see me coming down the mountain from a long way away. Mitsuyukis get up may seem retro and like something out of the 80s or 90s, but it is in fact the 2008-09 AK release from Burton.

Mountain style

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Aprs Bar Rubiks Cube Party

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Little Ryoji will probably be wrapped up in bed for the countdown but Ryoko from the Alpen Kids Room says she is going to watch the on-snow celebrations at the base of Hirafu ski hill.www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife 19


NightlifeSaturday December 27Loaf Lounge New Moon Party 9:00pm House music Y1000 with 1 drink

Thursday January 8th NYE Wednesday December 31Yuki Bar Count down party Half Note Jazz Concert 9:00pm Free Admission Paddy McGintys Irish Pub Cricket will be shown on TV screens over the new year, along with football from the English Premier League. Loaf Lounge Jyaga one party (Hokkaido Potato) 1free French fries Live Music & Open Mic 3:30pm 6:30pm: Resident Thursday musos Kaii & Aiden, play 3 sets of acoustic music and offer the mic and guitars for anyone who wants to get up & jam

in the loopWhats on in Niseko1227

Wednesday, December 31

Friday January 9thAprs Bar Nomi Hodai!! That means all you can drink from 8:00pm 10:00pm for just Y2000!! All you can drink good times with Playstations, Y500 Mini Pizzas and DJs spinning from 7:00pm 11:00pm.

Sunday December 28Yosaku Dance Event Link Up Vol.5 10:00pm Y2000 More info. Call at Shu at 090-8907-9399

1pm- 3pm Hanazono , Outside Hanazono 308 Saturday, 27December Build your own snow monster or Red Bar & Restaurant will open. Skilled amazing sculpture. Children, students, Nepalese chefs create authentic and adults can join in. healthy dishes. More info www.skihanazono.com

From 11pm Hirafu New Years Eve Torch Run. Hirafu, outside Apres Bar Gather on the slopes outside the Apres Bar for live music, Japanese Drum performance, throwing 1,000 rice cakes and fireworks, New Years Eve Countdown and the annual torch run as hundreds of skiers holding burning torches form a 1230 () giant 09 and descend Mt. Annupuri. Torch run registration desk from 1pm- 3pm 308 28-31December. Entry Fee 1,000yen.1231 23 00 Wednesday, 31 December NYE at Sekka J-Sekka Dining 6pm 10pm Glass of Bubbles, Hokkaido Oyster, Beef Carpaccio, Chicken, Tea Hokkaido Diver Scallops, Slow Roast Tokkachi Beef, Mix 2009 Leaf Salad, Pre Dessert (its our secret) NIKI Raspberry & Sambucca Semi-Freddo www.skihanazono.com

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Sunday December 28

Aprs Bar Niseko Poker League 8:00pm Y500 Buy in, first drink Y300 for players. Tables of 4-5, Red Bar Friday, January 2,9-Every Friday DJ night see Nestor on the night for registration. Players of all 10:00pm skill levels invited. Y1000 with 1 drink included

Sunday, 28 Dec, Thursday, 1 Jan-Sunday 4 JanAnnupuri Ski Resort Early Morning Gondola Operation. Gondola operates from 7am to 8:20am. Be the first one to enjoy the powder snow. 1,000 for lift pass.

Thursday, 1January 13:00Hirafu, Alpen Hotel Traditional ochi pounding. Have taste of Japanese New Year.1 1

Wednesday December 31

Aprs Bar New Years Eve Masquerade Ball Aprs Bar will be transformed this year into a Masquerade Ball. With the only and best indoor location to view the flare run & fireworks, this is always a sell-out night. Tickets Y1500 available from the bar, include first drink free and Masquerade Mask. We have selected 2 accomplished, party rocking DJs for your NYE soundtrack: DJ Somatik resident @ The Loft (Syd) & has DJd alongside Roy Ayers, Fat Freddys Drop & more DJ Lippo Good Vibrations Club, Good Vibrations Festival & Sounds on Sunday (Syd)

Sunday January 4thAprs Ski DJs & Niseko Poker League 3:30pm 6:30pm - DJs spinning for your Aprs Ski Enjoyment! 8:00pm Poker Y500 Buy in, first drink Y300 for players. Tables of 4-5, see Nestor on the night for registration. Players of all skill levels invited.

Ph

phy o Photogra otos: Nisek

Wednesday January 7thLive Music & Open Mic @ Aprs Bar 3:30pm 6:30pm: Resident Tuesday strummer Christian, plays 2 sets of acoustic music and offers the mic and guitars for anyone who wants to jam

Surely the Aprs Bar arent the only place putting on regular parties?! Tell us about your nightlife event @ www.powderlife.com

1228 11 4 7820 Coffee, Tea & Petit Fors 13,000 /person 1,000 Reservation required. Tel:0136-21-5021 www.sekkaniseko.com 31 J-Sekka Dining Sunday December 286pm - 10pm 1:00pm 5:00pm Aprs Bar Rail Jam 1,3000 Boarders and skiers of all levels Tel:0136-21-5021

Thursday, 1January, 0:00After 108 bells on New Years Eve, Mochi pounding festival will get started in Dragon.Free Sake. Kanpai!11 0 00 DRAGON

January 4 - 12Annupuri Ski Resort Hokkaido Ski & Snowboard Week Nukku Annpuri rental and Annupuri ski school lesson is 10% off 14 12 - 10OFF

welcome. Y1000 entry (2 x free Red Bulls). Register anytime at the Aprs Bar. Outdoor Bar and BBQ food for spectators. Come along and check out the action!

www.sekkaniseko.com

Thursday-Sunday, 1-4 JanuaryAnnpuri First Run 7:00am-8:20am Be the first to ski down Nisekos Mt Annupuri in 2009. First gondola will start at 7am. Y1000 for lift ticket.11 14 7:00am-8 20am 1000 2009 7

Sunday, December 28Taiko Drum Performances Free traditional Japanese drum performances. Every Sunday outside Hokkaido Tracks office (next to Seicomart) 3:30pm for 30min8 3 30

Saturday January 10Snow Tube & Tobboggan Championships at Hanazono Outside Hanazono 308. Join a team of 4 and race around the snow course. More info at www.skihanazono.com 110 308 1 4 www.skihanazono. com

Wednesday, 31DecemberAnnpuri Ski Resort Torch run and Count down with Fireworks Torch run starts at 23:45. Celebrate New Years count down with fireworks!

Thursday, 1January , 10:00

Tuesday, 30 DecemberSnow Monster/Sculpture Competition and Giant Pass The Parcel

Hirafu Ski Resort, Outside the King Bell Hut Sake Cask Opening Ceremony on mountain to welcome in the New Year. 2345 Free sake service. Watch out, for those trees!!

Got an event on between January 10 and 23? Email us to get it on this page in Issue 3, out January 10.

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Canada Goose Mystique Parka - WomensFACE facts. Layering is for the daytime on the hill, and your ski jacket does not cut it in the streets, restaurants and bars at night. Who wants to peel off four layers every time you walk into a new place? If you love the winter life you need a warm down jacket that can be peeled off in a second to reveal your nightlife-ready kit underneath. Canada Goose makes just about the best down jackets you can get, and the Mystique parka is its warmest. Initially designed for Rebecca Romijn to wear off-camera during the filming of X-Men 2, the full-length, fur-trimmed Canada Goose Mystique Parka uses Arctic-Tech fabric and premium down fill to subdue the coldest gusts on your next snowbound location. If the Mystique Parka can keep an actress wearing little more than blue body paint warm in arctic shooting conditions, its capable of handling whatever Niseko can throw in your direction. Filled with top quality goose down all the way from the hem to the hood (no 70 per cent duck feathers here!) it is cut as flattering and feminine as a long down jacket can be. Available from Daimaru Department Store, Sapporo. Call 011 828 1111. RRP 89,000 (US$1015).

By Bevan Colless and Matthew Thomas Sorel CaribouTHE well-heeled locals here in Niseko dont wear heels at all. They wear Sorel Caribous. Think gum boot with oodles of street cred that are extra warm, with extra grip and a smidgen of style points. You can even tuck your jeans into them if youre wading through deep stuff, or pull them over the top for a token effort at p.m. chic. Rated to -40 degrees celsius, with a waterproof full-grain leather upper attached to a vulcanised rubber bottom, they even have metal shanks across the heel and ball of your foot give you sturdy footing on the ice. The 9mm ThermoPlus felt liner is removable, so you can dry them out between uses. Available from Fusion , Hirafu and Hanazono. Call 0136 21 6633. RRP: 20,000 (US$230).

Burton SupermodelBURTONS beauty, The Supermodel, looks as good as its namesake, and rideswell, lets stop there, shall we? Almost specifically designed for Nisekos deep and powdery natural mountain conditions, the Supermodel - a true powder monster - boasts a directional, tapered shape and a short 2.5cm stance setback to give you bountiful float in the fluffy stuff. A fatter nose and skinnier tail sits you right up out of the pow-pow, meaning minimal stress and burn on your back leg. The Powder Fly II wood core absorbs the chatter for a smooth and controlled ride, and includes Carbon I-Beam reinforcements to increase handling for a precision cruise down the mountain. A ridiculously fast, sintered WFO base will keep you hauling along when you break out of the steeps and rip across a wide-open bowl. Add a fresh waxing to the bottom and youll really know about it, and find that you are constantly left waiting for friends to catch up after youve left them in your powdery wake. New this year, Burton added an ICS The Channel system to give you nearly limitless stance options, whether you prefer regular or EST bindings. The Supermodel: snowboarding has never been more attractive. RRP: 75,600 (US$860 approx).

Line Sir Francis BaconCOULD this be the perfect Niseko ski? While we know Niseko has got the deep, it only has patches of the steep, so youre unlikely to be skiing at warp speed for long. So, to rip in Niseko you want a fat ski with a bit of flex to make it a playful powder ski that will pop a bend when you need it. This is exactly what the SFB delivers. It floats on anything, yet still carves the groomers. One of only two skis that got a perfect 10 in Freeskiers 09 test, and is one of the lightest skis out there. Available from Victoria Sports Kanda, Tokyo. Call 03 3295 2955. RRP 95,000 (US$1085 approx).powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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meet the localsBy Chika Matsuda Pelican Burger

welcome irasshaimaseWithout a doubt, Gyu+ (the bar with the mini fridge door as its entrance) is the coolest bar in town. After Mt Yotei and the Alpen thermometer, it would have to be the most photographed landmark in Niseko. So you know the hamburger joint its creator has created in Kutchan town is also going to carry a crate load of cool. Hisashi Watanabe opened Pelican Burger in July, after 2 spending two years designing and building the interior. 7 While Pelicans front door is human sized, Watanabe sans touch is evident from the front faade to the back walls. After taking in the surrounds you should order one of their creative burgers. Pelcian Burger is opposite the 7-Eleven.

By Saoka Wakasugi

LIFTIE Naka-channame Kouta Nakano age 27 hometown Sapporo time in niseko 6 years do you like powder? I love it! ski/board? Snowboarder how long have you been snowboarding for? 15 seasons why did you do in summer? Golf, soccer, and had a car crash what languages do you speak? Japanese trips overseas? None where do you want to go next? anywhere overseas favourite... colour Purple brand None food Curry restaurant Loft Club bar Home onsen Koikawa Onsen ski run Strawberry Fields how long will you be in niseko? I dont know yet where else in the world do you want to go skiing? Whistler what does niseko need? More Japanese people and locals niseko secret? Lots of stink bugs in autumn means lots of snow in winter whats your life philosophy? Enjoy lifes little pleasures 27 /

SKI SHOP MANAGER Nabename Yoshihiro Watanabe age 37 hometown Rankoshi how long has your family lived here? More than 100 years do you like powder? No ski/board? Ski how long have you been skiing for? We learn how to ski when were in school what languages do you speak? Im Japanese so I speak Japanese trips overseas? None where do you want to go next? Nowhere favourite... colour Yellow brand North Face food Fish eggs restaurant None bar None onsen Ikoinomura ski run Super Course how long will you be in niseko? Until I die where else in the world do you want to go skiing? Whistler what does niseko need? More transport infrastructure niseko secret? You can sometimes tanuki (Japanese raccoons) crossing the road whats your life philosophy? Effort will always pay off 7 NO /

SKI PATROL Zanginame Zangi age 11 months hometown Sapporo time in niseko 9 months do you like powder? Yes! ski/board? Patrol how long have you been skiing for? 1 month why did you come to niseko? I was destined to be the mascot dog here what did you do in summer? Ran around in the dog run at Pure what languages do you speak? Ruff Ruff! trips overseas? Not yet where do you want to go next? Somewhere warm favourite... colour Red brand Pedigree Chum food Couch, beanie, snow, dog food restaurant A bowl of dogfood bar I love a bowl of chai tea onsen I love drying off after onsen ski run Zangi Course how long will you be in niseko? As long as Im the mascot what does niseko need? Dog socks niseko secret? You can see me! whats your life philosophy? Eat well, play well, sleep well /

Pension RaminaLike many in Niseko, Ramina Pension owner ShunichiFujimine is living the dream. Since his university days more than 30 years ago, he dreamed of owning his own accommodation in the mountains. He had lived near the mainland ski resorts around Nagano and Yuzawa but after coming to Niseko, fell in love with Mt Yotei and the local mountains. Seven years ago he quit his job as a businessman and opened Ramina. Its a huge wooden mountain lodge just outside Hirafu, which he and his wife run year-round. Its a lot more work than he imagined, but he loves meeting so many people from all over the world. By the way, in the local indigneous Ainu peoples dialect, ra means heart and mina means smile.

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Niseko 343

When it comes to grass roots, Niseko ski stores, it doesnt come any greener than Niseko 343. Started 15 years ago by 3 4 3 Odaijima-san (left), Niseko 343 knows Niseko, deep pow 1 5 der... and skiing deep powder in Niseko. The pro-ski shops current manager and local legend Toki-san (right) has been there since the beginning. Toki-san has been a the coach for the national freestyle and mogul ski teams. If youre looking to get deep in Niseko and want to be looked after by local experts, Toki and the crew should be your first port of call. And as for those damn snowboarders, Toki-san is happy to have them, but prefers to specialise in what he knows best 3 4 3 powder skiing.. Niseko 343 is opposite Hokkaido Tracks and Caf Kila. www.niseko343.com.

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Skis

placeand powder.ITS the eternal battle. To ski or to board? That is the question. For decades now its been heatedly argued out in bars aprs skior should that be aprs board? Traditionally, there was much more animosity that existed between skiers and boarders. These days, the two races live in harmonyof sorts. Although, we do still live in a world far from a utopia, where we all know there is still often a deep-seeded, underlying conflict between the two breeds of snow creatures even if it is not so visible and obvious in this day and age, unlike between warriors Trevor Dobson and Ross Monaghan, from Pro Powder guides, in the picture below. This heated debate has even translated into fisticuffs. There are many stories of ice hockey-style fights breaking out on the mountain even in the peaceful powder paradise that is Niseko. Conflict such as this is not something unique to the snow. There are a whole gamut of sports where there exists a fundamental divide between genres even if many of their goals are inherently similar. Melting from snow to the water, surfers and bodyboarders

vs boards: The battle for pride,also have their differences of opinion, as do waterskiers and wakeboarders. Then, of course, theres rugby and football (soccer), road cycling and mountain biking, and karate and tae kwon do. The list goes on We digress, though. Skiers are popularly considered to be your traditional, well-to-do snow riders, while boarders will always have the label of being the rebel. There are more than just differences of opinion that spark such a clash. They just sometimes plain and simple get on each others nerves. As far as terrain goes, skiers are renowned for forming a snowboarders worst nightmare the mogul. Conversely, boarders are blamed for pushing the snow to the side of the slopes so the piste becomes bare, and skiers in Niseko complain that tracks left by boards in powder make a run difficult to ski through. Believe it or not, even to this day there are many ski resorts around the world that still dont allow boarders on their slopes. In the land of the free, the United States, there are still four major resorts that say no to snowboarding Deer Valley, Alta, Mad River Glen and Taos Ski Valley. To retort in the typical rebellious nature of boarders, snowboard giant Burton recently put out a US$5000 bounty for any snowboarder who rode the slopes of elitist, antisnowboarding resorts. Five years ago, it was undisputable that snowboards were the ultimate powder tool. Snowboards had a huge influence on skis, arguably

POWDER SLASH... unidentified boarder throwing some spray. Photo: Glen Claydon

The powder and the passion: Locals speak from experienceWhen selecting your powder weapon of choice, there are many things to consider. We thought we would leave it to those who are passionate about their chosen discipline for slicing through Nisekos plentiful powder.

By Kristian Lund and Matthew Thomas

breathing new life into the ski industry. But how times have changed. These days, with the advent of fat powder skis, it is a level playing field. Now the difference isnt so great between the two, adding fuel to the fire and giving the debate more momentum. The invisible divide between skiers and snowboarders has existed for many years. Its almost a tired old clich. However, theres one interesting and relevant little aspect in particular that we decided to put to the test: Whats better for Niseko powder - skis or boards?

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HOKKAIDO Tracks founder Simon Robinson has been skiing regularly for 35 years. In that time he has snowboarded for about four days, and never in good conditions. By the time snowboarding came around I was already a proficient skier, so I didnt like the idea of changing, he says. But I did see them (snowboarders) slicing through some slush (Aussie powder) at Perisher in a way that we never could on the thin skis we were using then. But soon after that, the first parabolic skis came out and they gave skiers the ability to get through terrain in a very similar way to snowboarders. Simon likes the fact that it takes a long time to be able to become proficient enough on skis to be able to ski powder and go into the backcountry, and he also likes the extra accessibility skis afford him. Skiers and boarders go down the

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POWDERLIFES publisher, physiotherapist and powder hound Bevan Colless kicked off his snowboarding career in 1994 - and never looked back. His first time bound into a board was back in the heyday of snowboards, riding in Gunma, on Japans mainland. Bevan also got his first taste of Niseko powder that year, which whet his appetite and saw him settling here years later for the 2006-07 season.

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Ripping through powder on a snowboard is one of the best feelings in the worldI grew up in a working class family and my brothers used to always say skiers were wankers, so I found it hard to see myself as a skier after making fun of them in my youth, says Bevan, who admits to skiing a total of seven days in his entire life. I knew when I tried it the first time, snowboarding was always going to be my thing. When it comes to shredding through the pow-pow, Bevan, who rides a locally invented and produced Gentemstick, says snowboarding wins hands down. Ive never skied in powder, but when I look at a skier going through deep powder, it doesnt really look like as much fun, it looks like hard work. However, when I see a snowboarder ripping through powder - and I know the feeling myself - I know its one of the best feelings in the world. So, given the chance, would Bevan ever make the dirty switch? No, not really, he responds. If I could download the ability to ski really well into my brain, Id definitely illegally download that program. I obviously cant do that, so cant see myself going back to be a beginner again there arent enough days in winter, I reckon I would feel like I was wasting a day if I went skiing.

SNOW SAMURAIS ... Trevor and Ross from Pro Powder joust it out.

Im a hardcore skier, and will never, ever convertmountain in different ways and I just feel skiing is more compact and graceful, whereas snowboarding is more free-form, he says. Skiers go down the fall line of the hill and can do more fresh turns side-byside, but snowboarders tend to surf the mountain and go across it. At the end of the day, Im a hard core skier and will never, ever convert.

HAILING from Canada, Black Diamond Tours guide and co-owner Andrew Spragg grew up riding mountains. He started skiing when he was four years old, before first jumping on a board when he was 15. In his 20s he spent more time strapping into snowboards than clicking into skis, but these days he ends up doing a lot of both mainly snowboarding in his free time and skiing when guiding in the backcountry. While he loves both, when it comes to the crunch, snowboarding is Andrews favoured form of sliding down the mountain. When guiding, hes usually on skis for the ease of getting around the backcountry and hiking mountains theres no need for snowshoes and hes much more mobile. But when it comes to his free time, though, he jumps back on the board. I love going up the mountain on skis because its so quick and easy, but then when I get to the top I wish I had my board, he says. When it comes to guiding, I generally ski because you can get around better theres no equivalent on a snowboard to allow you to get around the back country. It doesnt matter what system you use if youve got a regular board youve got snowshoes on your back; if youve got a split board you still have changeover time when

I love going up the mountain on skis, but then when I get to the top I wish I had my boardyou have to put it back together and rotate the bindings. With skis all you have to do is take your skins off, click your heals down and youre ready to go. But overall, in powder for me its definitely a snowboard ultimately when youre on a snowboard you float through the powder; its more suited to riding powder.

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Face off...INSTRUCTORS Trevor Dobson and Ross Monaghan (pictured left) may be brothers in business, but when it comes to their choices in snow craft, they cant help but face off. Trevor, skier, founder and owner of Nisekos Pro Powder, and snowboarder Ross, one in the companys small yet skilled team of instructors, specialise in teaching both skiers and boarders specifically how to ride in powder - so they know a bit about getting through the fluffy stuff. Powderlife sat down for a Q & A with Trevor and Ross to find out a little more about their powder-coated lives, and the reasons behind their choices of snow transport.

hill that snowboarders cant reach. And we dont have to worry about the flat spots at the bottom of our runs like snowboarders do, so we have a much wider selection of terrain to ski. I have snowboarded quite a bit over the years, and I still board occasionally, but usually when the conditions arent great. Ive taken up tele-marking now, too, so my boarding days are becoming fewer and fewer. What are the disadvantages of skiing? Going too deep in the powder can sometimes be a negative, as its really hard to get through. Another thing would be when you bail; if you completely yard sale you can spend a long time looking for your gear, and sometimes turn up a piece or two short. Two years ago, I found one of my skis I lost in pow, that decided to turn up after the winter in May.

Pros and consBreaking it downPros

When it comes to skiing and snowboarding, neither is perfect - each have their positives and negatives

Snowboarding:

ROSSWhen did you start snowboarding, and when did you start getting serious about being an instructor? I have been boarding for 12 years, since I was 13 years old. I have worked the past three seasons as an instructor trainer in various resorts in British Columbia in Canada. When did you realise you were forever going to be a snowboarder? I was hooked the first time I ever rode a snowboard. I had learnt to ski first, but once I rode, I knew that it was for me. I still ski two or three times a year, and am learning to tele-mark, but Ill always be first and foremost a boarder. What is it you enjoy most about snowboarding? I love the feeling of carving a turn in powder, getting a face shot, not being able to see where youre going. I love hitting jumps of natural hits in powder, too. The landings are like bouncing off pillows. Slashing lines off a bank or covering a tree in powder is all so much fun. What are the negatives that come with snowboarding? Access. I can be going up a ridge line with skiers and theyll skin up and get to the top an hour before me while Im floundering away in my snow shoes in the powder. Hitting dead spots at the bottom of runs is also not much fun. Falling in powder and doing the turtle is pretty average, flapping away and trying to get up.

* Larger surface area means better float in the powder. * Boards are easier to control in deep snow, as there is only one plank to worry about. * Beginners can generally become more proficient in the powder faster. * Less chance of knee injuries. * The cool factor.

Cons* Harder work when hiking the back country, because you also need to carry snowshoes and poles. * You cant skin up a mountain without a split board. * Boards are not good in flat areas of the back country, and are only practical when going down. You need to walk or skate on flat terrain. * Harder to get up when you fall in powder. Think of a turtle. * Wear out the mountains snow faster.

TREVOR

When did you start skiing? I grew up 10 minutes from a ski slope, so I started skiing when I was five years old. At that time, there werent any snowboards around, there was only one choice for me. What is best about skiing Niseko powder? Its so light here that on skis you can really get deep into the snow. Every turn you feel as if the snow is rolling around your shoulders and you get face shots. I just dont get that same feeling when I snowboard. I also think you can make more turns when youre skiing than you can when youre boarding. When I come off the peak I can rip four or five massive turns on skis and still maintain my speed. I couldnt achieve that on a board. What advantages do skiers have over boarders in Niseko? The access is a big bonus for skiers. We can get to places and carve lines on the

Pros

Skiing:

*Easier to get around in the back country no showshoes required, just add skins and you can climb a mountain. *Skiers can generally get deeper into, and go faster through, the powder. * The old school factor.

Cons* You can get too deep in the powder, and it can get quite hard to ride through such depth. * Harder to become powder proficient in a short time have to be a pretty high-level skier to handle deep powder well. However, some who reach this high level see it as a rewarding, hard-to-attain positive. * Skiing deep powder is harder work and you need to be fitter and stronger. * Can require more powder-specific equipment than boarding.

peopleTheYuyu, Kanazawa:I have skied all my life, but I think snowboarding is better in powder. I am a ski instructor and ski in my spare time, too, but I would like to try snowboarding in the deep powder - I dont have a board at the moment, though.

voice of the

Skiers and boarders in Niseko have their say

Skis:Fatter skis for more surface area, which gives float in powder snow. Tighter DIN settings on your boots in the powder, so skis dont separate from the bindings as easily, which saves you from losing your skis in powder.

Boards:Fat nose so front end stays out of powder. Minimises burn in rear leg.

POWDER POP ... changing direction in style. Photo: Glen Claydon.

Powderlife took to the slopes to ask the public what craft they thought was best suited to the powder and why? Emi, Tokyo:Ive never tried skiing, so I dont know really, but when it comes to whats better in the powder, both would be okay. I dont see any difference because regardless of what you ride, its what you enjoy doing that counts.

Directional. Means board is designed to mainly travel in one direction forwards.

For an older bloke riding in powder, I think snowboarding is harder work for me, with all the falling down and getting up all the time. When I ride skis in powder, I find it a little easier on my body.

Dave, Australia:

I dont know much about skiing, but I have boarded in China and Korea and I think snowboarding would be better in the deep powder because there is more surface area on a board.

Jonathan, Hong Kong:

Joanne, Australia:

Skiing is definitely better in the powder is there any question? Ive never tried to snowboard before and Im too old to learn - but I have a good friend who went from skis to snowboard and back to skis again because they learned all there was to learn. I hear that story all the time, that skis are more of a long-term challenge in powder.

David, Australia:

I havent really ridden skis in deep powder before, but everyone says it is easier to stay on top of the powder on a board. But in saying that I would like to give skis a try in the powder, too. I used to ski, but when I first got some powder on a snowboard, that was enough to make me convert and I havent looked back.

Stiffness in the ski around the bindings gives more security and faster response.

There should be a larger difference between effective edge (the length of the board touching the ground) and actual length of the board. This means a larger part of the board rises up out of the powder.

The final say: Cant we all just live in powdery peace?FOR those who want to fight it out, you can do so diplomatically at our websites Noticeboard forum at www.powderlife.com start a forum discussion, or just simply vote, and see where things go. It must be said, though, that at the end of the day, on whatever mountain you choose, it doesnt matter what youre riding. Really, its what youre doing out there that should do all the talking. And if youre getting amongst the powder in Niseko, youre probably having a pretty darn good time regardless

Bindings should be set back. Powder-specific boards will have holes drilled further back in the board.

Flexibility at ends gives more pop in the pow.

Have your sayWhats better for powder skis or boards? Vote online and see results next issue. www.powderlife.comwww.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife 29

Narrow or swallow tail means easier, more responsive carving.

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rider Adrian Camp photo Glen Claydon

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EARLY-SEASON MUSHROOMS...taking turns at Hanazono. Photo: Niseko Photography

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Photo: Niseko Photography


Photo: Glen Claydon




By Nick Jackson

powder tracksAndy Gulverhouse

Powderlife caught up with Andy Gulverhouse, a newly arrived local shredder from England who hits the bars just as hard as he hits the slopes. We find out what makes him tick.Name Born Stance Setup Favourite terrain Favourite move Time in Niseko Time riding? Andy Nasher Gulverhouse 2/10/72 Stance, width and angle: 57cm, 15 front, 15 back GNU 11up/ Burton Cartels Backcountry trees FS Indy 180 Four months Three years

Andys iPod Top 101. Strokes - Someday 2. Kings of Leon - Milk 3. Razorlight - In The Morning 4. Dolly Parton - Jolene 5. Notorious BIG - Juicy 6. Kings of Leon - The Bucket 7. Hed Kandi - Sun in my Eyes 8. The Smiths - Panic 9. Goldie Looking Chains - Guns Dont Kill People 10. Oasis - Wonderwall

Album reviewsKanye West, 808 & Heartbreaks, 2008 LAST issue, I reviewed Lil Waynes Tha Carter. It had a synth-vocal overlay that annoyed the s*!# out of me. Im afraid to say that Kanye Wests new album has surpassed its predecessor with ease. This dull and lifeless album is not what Kanye is known for; theres no flamboyant self-promoting, theres no heavy bass lines with catchy hooks, just a whole steaming heap of crap. Kanye said, I am the No. 1 human on Earth in the music industry, but after this album, he would be fighting it out to stay in front of Peter Andre, who sits somewhere at a lowly No. 982. Rating: 1 Thats All Its Worths out of 5. N.E.R.D, Seeing Sounds, 2008 THE is the hip-hop album of the year - in my eyes anyway. Every song from Intro right through had me tapping along with the beat. Seeing Sounds is a very funk-influenced album with 1930s swing drumbeats all through it. The lyrics were unsyncopated and unusual, but that just made it all the better. The variation of the album is also great, going from a heavy, thumping club tune, then on to a melodic rock tune, all without losing that N.E.R.D sound. The remixes are even great. I cant really fault itGenius! Rating: 4 Buy This Album Legallys out of 5. Eagles of Death Metal, Heart On, 2008 FANS of dirty rock would really, really enjoy this - I mean really! Eagles of Death Metal was formed by frontman of Queens of the Stone Age Josh Homme, and close high school friend and rock demon Jesse Hughes. They started the Eagles as a gimmick band as a side project for QOTSA, but with this album, they have really shown that they are more than serious with continuing what they are doing. Heart On is comparable to the Foo Fighters of the 90s, with great guitar riffs and lyrics sung the way rock lyrics should be. These guys are truly flying the flag for old school rock and roll. Rating: 4 Moustachioed Rock Gods Playing Guitar Hero at 3am Swigging Jack Daniels out of 5.www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife 35

Earning your avalanche stripesBy Matthew Thomas

A POINT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION .. Chuck demonstrates to hikers that there is more to the back country than meets the eye. YOU will never be 100 per cent safe in the back country. The fact that you can be severely injured or die out there is, ironically, a fact of life. However, you can go to measures to minimise the risks and ensure you are as safe as possible out there. This is especially necessary when skiing, boarding or hiking the back country of avalanche-prone Hokkaido.

niseko survival guideIm not ignorant enough to make myself believe this course equipped me with all I need to know about snow disaster; quite the contrary, it gave me a thirst to seek more. As they say, the day you think you know everything is they day you stop learning. Follow up courses and more experience in the back country will certainly be on the horizon. But, all in all, this weekend did provide me with the stepping stone I needed, along with affording me a healthy respect for the snow that I never really had until now. youre going to be home. Then, call this person and let them know when you arrive home safely. Thinkaboutthesnowpack,weatherandterrain. Know whats dangerous and what are the red lights for the snow pack, such as hollow sounds under foot; whoomphing noises; cracking around skis, board or snowshoes; and the most obvious, recent avalanches in the area you plan to visit. Ontheterrainside,beawareofcornicesand convex slopes and also areas where the snow might build up below you on the mountain, such as gullies. Chuck Olberys top tips for avalanche Redlightsfortheweatherare2.5cmperhouror safety 30cm overnight of snowfall; wind over 15m/s is cause for concern; rain on new snow; and temps at zero or Havetherightequipmentattheveryleasta above degrees celsius. beacon, probe and shove and more importantly, Travelsafelyinavalanche-proneterrain.Ifyoure know how to use it. skiing or riding down in avalanche zones, go one at a Inthecarpark,makesurebeaconsare time; have one person at the top and one person at transmitting before you head out. the bottom spotting you; dont have ski poles tied Haveanexperiencedpartnerwhoalsoknowshow around wrists because they can act as anchors if you to use all of the gear. It is useless and dangerous are caught. going out there unless you are with someone who Ifanavalanchedoescomedownaroundyou, knows how to extricate you from an avalanche. know beforehand safe areas to escape or retreat to, Beforeyouheadout,checktheweatherforecast. such as 45 degrees out of the avalanches path; Know what the snow, wind and rain are doing, and behind a clump of trees; behind or under a rock; or a whether these conditions will make stability trends high point on the slope. better, worse or the same. * Hokkaido Powder Guides is holding another Checkonavalancheconditionsatthetimeby avalanche course in January. For more information, checking avalanche reports posted on gates of the call 0167 225 655 or 080 3492 0433. Alternately, email back country, or ask guides, friends or patrol about [email protected] or check www. conditions. Alternately check the regular and accurate hokkaidopowderguides.com. internet postings by experienced Niseko local, Akio * Check out the next fortnights edition of Powderlife Shinya, at http://niseko.nadare.info/. for survival tips for when you actually get stuck in an Makesuresomeoneknowsyourplansfortheday avalanche. where youre going, what youre doing and when

A PRIVATE MOMENT ... a lone snowboarderz enjoys some solo time with just him and nature.

I RECENTLY went along to a weekend recreational avalanche course with seven other keen students from all over Hokkaido, who were also thirsty for knowledge. The class was led by experienced Furano local and regular visitor to Niseko, Chuck Olbery, alongside Japanese guide, Nori Watanabe - both from guiding company, Hokkaido Powder Guides. Going into the Canadian Avalanche Assocation-recognised class with basically no prior knowledge or experience, the two-day intensive course gave me a comprehensive, practical, entry-level understanding of how to prevent avalanche disasters, and how to minimise the damage or deadliness of an avalanche should it strike. This knowledge was worthwhile, as after all, avalanches are some of the most powerful forces of nature known to man, smothering, deadly and fast as they reach speeds of up to 200km/h.

locate those trapped within. After lunch, we then took the gondola to the top of Higashiyama, where, armed to the teeth with shovels and snow saws, Chuck and Watanabe san instructed us how to test and assess the snow pack for weaknesses by literally cutting apart the snow and looking at its history. The different types of snow beneath the surface a variance of rock-solid ice, powder and sugar-like granules were fascinating; it was much like peeling back the skin of an onion, or looking at the age rings of an old tree. These were telltale signs of the stability, or instability, of the snow. These snow pack tests were only something I had seen in skiing and snowboarding movies, and Im glad to now say I know how to perform these tests myself. Later on in the night, in the warm, comforting setting of upper Hirafus Aprs Bar, while nursing a couple of well-deserved Kirins, a movie and presentation fleshed out the technical side Day 1: of things - mainly focussing on environmental aspects of avalanches. We learned what angle grade and parts After a briefing, we were taken out into a snowy field, of the mountain were avalanche traps, along with armed only with a backpack filled with shovels, what kinds of snow, and even sounds of snow, mean beacons and probes objects all foreign to me prior you should basically get the hell out of there. On the to this course. First of all, we were taught how to preventative side, we also learned how to read the operate a beacon by burying several of them in a weather forecasts and assess other environmental massive, snow-coated field, and were then asked to factors, in order to make a safe and sound decision to track them all down. As we learned, initially head out back, or not. I will never go riding or hiking nonsensical bleeps and flashes on the dial soon and look up only to see simply snow and a mountain turned to coherent directions. It is harder than it ever again. I now see so much more. looks, believe me which is why I wasnt surprised to hear that it is quite common for many to venture into the back country with a beacon and absolutely no idea of how to work the thing. We were then taught the right way to use a probe, an object which, by its namesake, is used to probe through the snow to DIGGING DEEP ... Powderlife associate editor Matthew Thomas digs a snow pit.

Day 2:Today, we put all our newfound knowledge into action. We drove half-an-hour outside Niseko to a mountain called Iwa Annapuri, where our group hiked, then, retracing our tracks, we boarded and skied down in some of the freshest thigh-deep powder Ive had all season. Besides the hike being a rude shock to the system by way of snow fitness and strength (in parts I was sinking in snow up to my waist the curse of the large-framed man), this was a practical way of putting into action all we learned the day prior. To close out the course, we were thrown into an avalanche simulation exercise. We were, all of a sudden, a group of people on a mountain struck by an avalanche - the only ones who remained above snow level. An unknown number of victims were stuck below in a snow death trap, and we were the only ones who could get them out. With the snow all messed up and debris everywhere skis, gloves and poles littered the site we needed to track down all the beacons that had been cunningly buried beneath more than a metre of powder by our guides. Showing dedication and sacrifice to his craft, Chuck became a human icicle, burying himself in a creek bed in minus-three-degree temperatures. Without time for preparation, our group needed to come up with the best plan of action, then employ all our new knowledge. Im pleased to say we tracked down the all beacons and, thankfully, Chuck, in close to 10 minutes considering the situation, a very good time, say our guides. This was proof and affirmation that what we learned actually worked. Plus, we got a nifty little Canadian Avalanche Association certificate for our troubles.

BREATHER ... students stop for a break after riding fresh tracks from the peak of Iwaonupuri.

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PAYING ATTENTION ... the class watches as Chuck tests the snow.


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restaurant review

By Kat and Kim

Okonomiyaki JyuuSekka chefs Kat and Kim introduce us to Okonomiyaki at Jyuu.AT Jyuu, okonomiyayi is the star of the restaurant, not just one item in a list on many on a food court menu. We love a good yaki (fried dish) and many a time have whipped one up at home from my step mom Akikos recipe, and we loved hearing about the restaurants in Japan that served this dish and nothing else. The owners of Okonomiyaki Jyuu are from Osaka, the spiritual home of the okonomiyaki, so it was a genuine piece that we were going to try. Located midway between Higashiyama, Annupuri and Niseko town, its kind of all by its lonesome, but this doesnt seem to have slowed business - there are only a few tables spare when we arrive. Leaving our shoes in the rack and having a good laugh at trying to fit into the inside slippers (youd think thered be one pair of size 12 slippers somewhere in Japan!?) we plonk down at a table. The table has a flat grill in the center to keep the goodies warm and is set with essential okonomiyaki tools. Theres an English version of the menu so no pantomime tonight. We are both immediately drawn to the beef tendon and kim chii combination so we know thats going to feature soon in our future. The other we go for is the thinly sliced pork belly, but now were faced with another choice the standard okonomiyaki base; negiyaki, a thinner base topped with spring onion, lemon and tempura flakes; or nariyaki, a thin base with garlic chive, lemon and tempura flakes. Decisions, decisions. In the end we go for the beef tendon on the negiyaki and the pork belly on the okonomiyaki. The order travels not far, in fact only two meters away to three huge flat grills where the magic is performed. Sitting on one corner slowly bubbling away all night is a pot of the beef tendon, mmm!

We watch as the okonomiyaki batter is the first to be poured on to the grill, followed by the pork. Next to it the negi batter is poured on too before being topped with the tendon and kim chii, then a mountain of spring onion, pickled ginger and tempura flakes. These are left to cook as we sit and squirm in hunger with the delicious aromas wafting around and our food with in touching distance. As soon as the okonomiyaki and negiyaki are half cooked, theyre flipped over. When theyre just about done, an egg is cracked onto the grill, and the okonomiyaki flipped over onto that. As this is done, our table grill is turned on to warm for the arrival of the treats. The okonomiyaki is topped with Japanese Worcester sauce, aonori, kewpie and bonito shavings so fine they dance and wave in the heat given off from the okonomiyaki with the still soft egg sitting below. The negiyaki is topped with a slice of lemon and both are brought to the table and placed on the grill. I was concerned that they might over cook on the grill but after the first bite there was no concern that they would be around long enough for that to happen. We tried the negiyaki first. The tempura flakes have been cooked in to a crispy golden crust covering it. The tendons are melt in the mouth and the kim chii is not so strong that it overpowers but just lets you know its there. The okonomiyaki is a beast of a completely different kind, with its thick batter, Worcester and mayo, its so rich and so savoury it fills your mouth with umami. We seem to enter a fugue state, all the conversation ends and only the need to consume another mouthful exists. All too quickly we are finished. Really, we should have known we were full but there was the possibility we were still hungry, so we opted to find out by ordering a mix okonomiyaki. This comes with pork, prawn and squid. Its just as delicious as the first two, but it is only a few bites in when we realise in fact we are full... really full! It seems sad to leave something so delicious uneaten, so we give it our best shot. All done and ready to explode we leave, already making plans for our next visit, and thinking about what flavors and styles to try. You know its good when your cant eat any more, but youre already planning to . For more great reviews and a whole lot more about food, check out Kat and Kims blog @ www.bigfoodsmallworld.blogspot.com

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www.nisekowinesupply.com Tel: 080 6066 432138 powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife 39

japanese cookingOkonomiyaki - as you like it!Tess Stomski from Niseko Gourmet fine dining and Sachiko from Niseko Gourmet Japanese cooking workshops share their okonomiyaki recipe.Okonomi means as you like referring to the ingredients that are mixed with the batter to make this Japanese savoury pancake, okonomiyaki. Said to have originated in Osaka, okonomiyaki can now be found all over Japan and with its crisp outer layer and moist filling, will satisfy the taste buds of any hungry traveller. Yaki refers to the grilling of the pancake after it has been mixed with your choice of ingredients, most commonly pork, cabbage, shrimp, squid, mushroom, kimuchee, rice cake, spring onion, tempura flakes or whatever you like. When cooked, okonomiyaki is topped with Japanese mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce, bonito fish flakes, nori flakes and pickled ginger. Try making okonimiyaki and sharing it in the centre of the table as part of a casual Japanese dinner with friends.

Ingredients (serves 4 people)1 cup flour 350ml water pack (4g) sea kelp (konbu) stock powder pack (2 g) bonito fish stock powder cabbage 1 leek 4 eggs (one per pancake) 1 tablespoon dry sea weed flakes (aonori) 2 tablespoons fried tempura balls (tenkasu) Japanese mayonnaise to taste Okonomiyaki sauce to taste Topping ideas: Mushrooms (shimeji, maitake, white button), Pickled ginger, Pork or bacon, shrimp, squid, scallops, cheese, kimchi, bonito flakes 1. To make the batter whisk the flour, stock powder and water in a mixing bowl. Mix well until all ingredients are blended together to form a smooth batter. 2. Cut cabbage and leek into bite size pieces, as well as any other toppings cut to the same size. 3. In a separate mixing bowl take 1 ladle (100ml) of batter, 1 handful of cabbage, a few pieces of leek, 1 egg, a pinch of seaweed flakes, some tempura balls, any other toppings and mix lightly. Be careful not to add too many toppings. Coat all ingredients well with batter. 4. Heat one teaspoon of vegetable oil in a fry pan on medium heat. Once hot place the mixed ingredients into the center and spread out into a 15 to 20cm circle. Cook until base is golden brown (approx. 10 minutes). Flip over and lightly flatten out the pancake with a spatula. Dont press too hard or you will crack the pancake. 5. Once the pancake is cooked (approximately 5 to 10 minutes) you can then top the pancake with okonimiyaki sauce (similar to Worcestershire sauce but thicker and sweeter), followed by Japanese mayonnaise. Spread these sauces over the entire surface of the pancake and dont be shy with the sauce. 6. Finally top it off with aonori and bonito flakes if you like and serve immediately. Itadakimasu!!343

Enjoy great food anytime of day in a family friendly atmosphere.

Breakfast, Lunch, Apres Ski and of course Dinner.

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Japanese for powder peopleby studio tdes Lesson 2: Japanese for the mountainCHANCES are, you came to Niseko for the snow and so did the person sitting opposite you in the gondola. So, if you want attempt a conversation, talking about the snow is probably a good place to start. And since were guessing youll spend most of your holiday on the mountain, in this lesson we give you some language to use when youre on the mountain talking about and enjoying the snow.

5. Daijoubu? OK

1. Ii goodIi is one of many words you can use to describe the amazing run youve just had or the yuki (snow). Ii yuki da ne means: the snows good, isnt it? Also try: saikou da ne (its awesome), kimochi ii (feels great!), ii condition da ne (the snows great today, isnt it?), kyou sugoku ii, (its really good today).

If you come across someone lying in the snow and youre wondering if theyre injured, ask them: daijoubu? (are you OK?) They might just be having a rest, in which case, theyll answer: daijoubu (yeah, Im fine). If someone asks you and youre not OK, you can say: daijoubu janai (Im not OK). If you need help, you can say: tasukete (help me). If youre injured and want to get your point across in the simplest way possible, try pointing to the injured body part and saying: itai (it hurts).

6. Dame! ! Dont !If someone skis after you yelling dame! chances are youve done something against the rules. Dame is used for telling someone not to do something, or telling someone off. If you want to tell someone off for almost poking your eye out with their ski pole, say: abunai! (thats dangerous!).

2. Dou? ? how, whatYou can ask questions in Japanese just by raising your voice at the end of a statement, or attaching ka. Dou is also useful. When you meet your friend at the bottom of the run, ask them: dou datta? (how was it?). If theyve just bought new boots and are wearing them for the first time, ask: boots dou? (how are your boots?). You ordered soba for lunch and your friend is slurping down a bowl of udon ask them how it is: dou? oishii? (is it good?)

7. Suberu ski, snowboardSuberu means slide and is also the verb most commonly used to talk about skiing or snowboarding. Subetta? (did you go boarding/skiing today?) Subbetta yo (yes). Mada (not yet). The roads in Hirafu are very slippery, so people will warn you: suberi yasui kara kiotsukete (be careful, its easy to slip over).

9. Furu to snowThere is certainly a lot of snow in Niseko but it doesnt always snow 24/7, and when it starts and stops its always something to talk about. Yuku ga futteru (its snowing). Futteru? (Is it snowing?). Yannderu (it has stopped). Gangan futteru (its snowing hard). Futtenai (Its not snowing). Furanai kanaa (I wish it would snow).

3. Samui coldIts winter in Niseko, of course its cold! Still, sometimes its colder than usual, especially when its windy and youre sitting in a chairlift without a hood. Samui ne! (its cold, isnt it?). Ne, sugoku samui (yeah, its really cold). Note: if youre talking about a particular body part, you need a different word for cold: tsumetai. Tsumasaki ga tsumetai (my toes are cold.) Yubi ga tsumetai (my fingers are cold). If youre not feeling cold, here are some other things to complain about: tsukareata (Im tired), onaka suita (Im hungry), harahetta (Im hungry boys version).

10. Akeome! Happy New Year!If you want to be with a crowd of people on New Years Eve, standing on the slopes watching the giant flaming 09 is the place to be. After the countdown wish everyone a happy new year: akemashite omedetou gozaimasu! (happy new year!) If you cant remember the whole thing, try the shortened version: akeome! Special bonus points if you can remember the full new year greeting: akemashite omedetou gozaimasu. Kotoshi mo yoroshiku onegaishimasu. Pronunciation guide: Since this magazine cant talk, your best bet is to find a Japanese person and ask them to say the words and repeat after them. Then buy them a beer. studio tdes produces a daily online English language show, based in Kutchan: www.thedailyenglishshow.com

3. Matte waitYour friend rides off while youre still adjusting your boots and you want them to wait. Yell: matte! (wait). Later youre standing at the top of the mountain and they ask if youre ready to take off: ikou ka? (shall we go?). Youre almost ready, but just need to put away your camera. Say: chotto matte (hang on a sec). When youre ready, say: ikou! (lets go!).

4. Doko? whereYou stare at your map and up at the mountain and back at the map and still have no idea where you are. Try taking your map to one of the mountain staff and asking: koko doko? (where are we on this map?). When they show you, say: domou arigatou gozaimasu (thank you very much). When youre busting for the loo, ask someone: toile wa doko desu ka? (where is the toilet?). After you strike up a conversation with someone about the weather, theyll probably ask you something like: doko kara kitano? (where are you from?).

Need more practice?Have fun learning basic Japanese every Sunday afternoon with tdes. Well teach useful words and phrases for English-speaking tourists in Niseko. Day: Every Sunday Place: Samurai Bar, Niseko Yurt Village Time: 4pm to 5pm Entry: 1000 yen (includes 1 drink) More info: thedailyenglishshow.com/nisekojapanesewww.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife 43

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Men who ride MountainsBy Stirling GoldmanHailing from the extreme terrain of Mt Baw Baw in Australia, Stirling Goldman was bred on waist-deep, man-made powder and extra steep chutes. Stirling has conquered the most beastly mountains across the world, and recently moved to Niseko. Stirling soon sensed that both local and international punters needed to be taught a thing or two and luckily for us, has decided to settle here for good. Stirling Goldman: a man who rides mountains. and divorced by then, but there will still be snow in Niseko, Stirls will still look good and your partners will still have a crush on me.

SO, recently I have been approached by many people wondering how to deal with the credit crunch and global financial crisis. I must admit it is somewhat painful being approached by punters at the best of times. But its even more painful when they are looking for financial advice. Being sidled up to by a pin-stripe suit-wearing investment banker drowning his sorrows at 2am, asking the Stirls how he does what he does, is almost enough to cause me to get on the phone to my old mate Barack and give him my pearls for how to sort this mess out. A few seasons ago these were the kind of people trying to bribe their way into VIP status next to Stirls at the bar. It was a common scenario and bored me to tears. Loud-mouth Stirls wannabes bragging about their latest big deal, highflying job, flashy houses and how good they were at skiing. It was laughable for the Stirls. As always, though, the joke was on them; for it meant a steady supply of free beers for me all night, and their golddigging, or should I say Goldman-digging wives, in my ear trying to get a piece of a real man. Fortunately for the wannabes, I dont roll with married women. So how do you deal with the credit crunch? You see, Stirling does what he does because he has to. I cannot choose not to go on a skiing trip, or not to roll in Niseko just because the yen is strong. Imagine all the broken hearts and disappointed fans. It just wouldnt be fair. Also, if Stirls doesnt ski, Stirls may as well not exist. For Stirls the rent, food and clothing come second to lift tickets and chalets. Of course I havent paid for either since I was three years old, but I would if I had to. I ski therefore I am Stirls. Get it, you muppet? Stirling doesnt do or need a suit. The last time I wore one was for the Armani shoot I did back in the 89-90 season. The suit has sure aged, but I have not.

Q: Stirling, how do you keep your finances in check during these times? Patrick, Sydney. A: Patty my boy, people often look at Goldman and think he is just a ski bum you know, a larrikin who just looks for good times. Then these same people What people do not understand is that from a hear about my chalet in Chamonix; my 22 bedroom skiing perspective, the global markets slide means a palace in the Caribbean; my Sydney Harbour win-win for Stirls. There are less people on the hill waterfront with private yacht mooring; my and more room for me to do what I do best at least apartments in London, New York and Paris; my what I do best during the day. And as for what I do Ferrari, Bentley and Porsche; my dominance with the best at night well, lets just say I have to just change ladiesand all of a sudden want to be my friend. my focus. Sure there are fewer ladies about but there Patrick, Goldman is not stupid. He is financially are always the seasonal workers and Niseko regulars secure. For with a face and body of the gods, and who reap the rewards of the great man to seek some ability to ski like he does, he is a sponsors dream. solace in these tough economic times. So it is a winAnd with this come decent dollars and a steady win for them, too, which is good as it is nice to give stream of royalties that means the good times keep something back to the resort and to skiing in general. on coming. If you want the truth, I think I come in third on the rich list of Australian athletes behind I remember the 90s recession back in Australia. Greg and Harry (Norman and Kewell). Of course, for Baw Baw management were worried the profit an international man of the winter as I am, most of margins would be grim. Naturally, they looked to my money is redirected via my residence in Monaco. Stirling to save the day. Now, let me set the record Cha Ching! What was that, the sound of cash register straight, Stirling never sells out, yet this was the opening? Stirls thinks so. closest I have come. For it was Baw Baw and they needed me. So I did a shoot at the Baw Baw peak. All Q: Stirling, rumour has it you are now on I will say is that there were some strategically placed Facebook? Is this true? Can I be

powderlife magazine issue no.11

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