ContentsLIVING WITH YOUR VW POLOIntroduction P a g e 0 . 4

Safety first! P a g e 0 . 5

Roadside repairsIntroduction P a g e 0 . 6

If your car won’t start P a g e 0 . 6

Jump starting P a g e 0 . 7

Wheel changing

Identifying leaks

Towing

P a g e 0 . 8

P a g e 0 . 9

P a g e 0 . 9

Weekly checksIntroduction Page 0.10

Underbonnet check points

Engine oil level

Page 0.10

Page 0.11

Coolant level Page 0.11

Brake fluid level Page 0.12

Screen washer fluid level Page 0.12

Wiper blades

Battery

Tyre condition and pressure

Bulbs and fuses

Page 0.13

Page 0.13

Page 0.14

Page 0.15

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0.16

MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing Page 1 .1

Maintenance schedule P a g e 1 . 3

Maintenance procedures P a g e 1 . 5

ContentsREPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and associated systemsPetrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A.1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Fuel/exhaust systems - single-point petrol injection models

Fuel/exhaust systems - multi-point petrol injection models

Page 2B.1

Page 3 .1

Page 4A.1

Page 4B.1

Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4C.1

Engine electrical - starting and charging systems

Engine electrical - Ignition system

Page 5A.1

Page 5B.1

TransmissionClutch Page 6 .1

Manual transmission Page 7 .1

Driveshafts Page 8 .1

Brakes and suspensionBraking system Page 9 .1

Suspension and steering Page 10.1

Body equipmentBodywork and fittings

Body electrical systems

Page 11.1

Page 12.1

Wiring diagrams Page 12.12

REFERENCEDimensions and weights Page REF.1

Conversion factors Page REF.2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification

General repair procedures

Jacking and vehicle support

MOT test checks

Page REF.3

Page REF.4

Page REF.5

Page REF.5

Fault finding

Glossary of technical terms

Page REF.12

Page REF.19

Index Page REF.24

0.4 IntroductionThe updated VW Polo range was introduced in November of A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within

1990, with a choice of 1.05 litre (1043 cc) or 1.3 litre (1272 cc) petrol the Polo range to suit most tastes, including a sliding sunroof, tintedengines, with either single-point or multi-point fuel injection. During glass, alloy wheels and remote adjustable door mirrors.Spring 1991, the G40 model was launched, equipped with a Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with thesupercharged version of the 1.3 litre engine. Three body shells are manufacturer’s recommendations, the VW Polo should prove reliableavailable - a three-door hatchback, a two-door saloon and a three- and very economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, anddoor Coupe. most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

All engines are derived from the well-proven units which haveappeared in previous versions of the VW Polo. The engine is of four-cylinder overhead camshaft design, mounted transversely, with thetransmission mounted on the left-hand side. All models have a four orfive-speed manual transmission.

Your Polo manualAll models have fully-independent front suspension and employ coil-

over-damper struts, transverse lower arms and an anti-roll bar. Therear suspension is semi-independent, utilising coil-over-damper strutsand incorporating trailing arms located by a torsion beam axle. A rearanti-roll bar is fitted to certain models.

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from yourvehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what workmust be done (even if you choose to get it done by a garage). It willalso provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, andgive a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faultsoccur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling thework yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking thecar into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhapsmost important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs agarage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The WV Polo TeamHaynes manuals are produced by dedicated andenthusiastic people working in close co-operation. Theteam responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors

Sub-editorEditor & Page Make-up

Andy LeggSpencer Drayton

Carole Turk

Bob JexPete Shoemark

Workshop managerPhoto Scans

Paul Buckland

John MartinPaul TanswellSteve Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximumenjoyment from your car. By carrying out routinemaintenance as described you will ensure your car’sreliability and preserve its resale value.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function ofthe various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasksare described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

This manual is not a direct reproduction of the vehiclemanufacturer’s data, and its publication should not be taken asimplying any technical approval by the vehicle manufacturers orimporters.

AcknowledgementsThanks are due to Champion Spark Plugs, who supplied the

illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Special thanks to Lodersof Yeovil who provided several of the project vehicles used in theorigination of this manual. Thanks are also due to Sykes-PickavantLimited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all thosepeople at Sparkford and Newbury Park who helped in the productionof this manual.We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in thismanual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and designchanges during the production run of a particular vehicle of whichthey do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authorsor publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, oromissions from, the information given.

VW Polo Boulevard WV Polo GT Coupe

Safety first! 0.5Working on your car can be dangerous.

This page shows just some of the potentialrisks and hazards, with the aim of creating asafety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

l Mains voltage is also dangerous. Makesure that any mains-operated equipment iscorrectly earthed. Mains power points shouldbe protected by a residual current device(RCD) circuit breaker.

Scaldingl Don’t remove the radiator or expansiontank cap while the engine is hot.. Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid orpower steering fluid may also be dangerouslyhot if the engine has recently been running.

Fume or gas intoxicationl Exhaust fumes arepoisonous; they oftencontain carbonmonoxide, which is

Burningl Beware of burns from the exhaust systemand from any part of the engine. Brake discsand drums can also be extremely hotimmediately after use.

rapidly fatal if inhaled.Never run theengine in aconfined spacesuch as a garagewith the doors shut.l Fuel vapour is also

Crushing

poisonous, as are the vapours from somecleaning solvents and paint thinners.

l When working under or neara raised vehicle,

Poisonous or irritant substancesl Avoid skin contact with battery acid andwith any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especiallyantifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Dieselfuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such asubstance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,seek medical advice.

ventureunder a car whichis only supported by a jack.l Take care if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.Initial loosening and final tightening shouldbe done with the wheels on the ground.

l Prolonged contact with used engine oil cancause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use abarrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags inyour pocket.l Air conditioning refrigerant forms apoisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame(including a cigarette). It can also cause skinburns on contact.

Fire Asbestosl Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour isexplosive.l Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.l Do not smoke or allow naked lights(including pilot lights) anywhere near avehicle being worked on. Also beware ofcreating sparks(electrically or by use of tools).. Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’twork on the fuel system with the vehicle overan inspection pit.l Another cause of fire is an electricaloverload or short-circuit. Take care whenrepairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.l Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a typesuitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

l Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaledor swallowed. Asbestos may be found ingaskets and in brake and clutch linings.When dealing with such components it issafest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Electric shockl Ignition HTvoltage can bedangerous,especially topeople with heartproblems or apacemaker. Don’twork on or near theignition system withthe engine running orthe ignition switched on.

Special hazardsHydrofluoric acidl This extremely corrosive acid is formedwhen certain types of synthetic rubber, foundin some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, areexposed to temperatures above 400°C. Therubber changes into a charred or stickysubstance containing the acid. Once formed,the acid remains dangerous for years. If itgets onto the skin, it may be necessary toamputate the limb concerned.l When dealing with a vehicle which hassuffered a fire, or with components salvagedfrom such a vehicle, wear protective glovesand discard them after use.

The batteryl Batteries contain sulphuric acid, whichattacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take carewhen topping-up or carrying the battery.l The hydrogen gas given off by the batteryis highly explosive. Never cause a spark orallow a naked light nearby. Be careful whenconnecting and disconnecting batterychargers or jump leads.

Air bagsl Air bags can cause injury if they go offaccidentally. Take care when removing thesteering wheel and/or facia. Special storageinstructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipmentl Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at veryhigh pressure. Take care when working onthe fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

A!

Warning: Never expose the hands,face or any other part of the bodyto injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potential/y fatalresults.

0.6 Roadside repairsThe following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will findmore detailed fault finding information at the back of themanual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start If your car won’t startand the starter motor even though the starterdoesn’t turn motor turns as normal

0 Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals 0 Is there fuel in the tank?are clean and tight. 0 Is there moisture on electrical components under the

0 Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obviousheadlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosolbattery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system(see next page) using a friend’s car. electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.

Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector

and H-T leads.

A Check that the spark plug HT leads are B Check that the distributor hall sendersecurely connected by pushing them connector is firmly pushed home anddown onto the plug tops

C At the ignition coil, check that the LT andHT cable connections are secure andfree of moisture

With the ignition switched off, check that electrical connections are secure and spraythem with a water dispersant spray, such as WD40, if you suspect that moisture may becausing a problem.

E Check that the airflow meter harnessconnector is secure and free of moisture

Roadside repairs 0.7

When jump-starting a car using a 3 Make sure that the booster battery isbooster battery, observe the following the same voltage as the dischargedprecautions: one in the vehicle.

1 Before connecting the boosterbattery, make sure that the ignition isswitched off.

4 If the battery is being jump-startedfrom the battery in another vehicle,the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCHeach other.

2 Ensure that all electrical equipment(lights, heater, wipers, etc) isswitched off.

5/ Make sure that the transmission is inneutral (or PARK, in the case ofautomatic transmission).

Jump starting

0.8 Roadside repairs

Wheel changingSome of the details shown here will varyaccording to model. For instance, the locationof the spare wheel and jack is not the sameon all cars. However, the basic principlesapply to all vehicles.

Preparation0 When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.0 Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.q Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

Changing the wheel

A Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by

!other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway.Be wary ofpassing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted bythe job in hand.

0l If you have one, use a warning triangle toalert other drivers of your presence.

0 Apply the handbrake and engage first orreverse gear (or Park on models withautomatic transmission.

0 Chock the wheel diagonally opposite theone being removed - a couple of largestones will do for this.

0 If the ground is soft, use a flat piece ofwood to spread the load under the jack.

1 The spare wheel and tools are stored inthe luggage compartment. Unscrew thewing nut and lift out the spare wheel

2 The jack is located beneath the sparewheel. The wheel brace is on the right-hand side of the luggage compartment

3 Remove the wheel trim . . .

4 . . . then slacken each wheel bolt by ahalf turn 5 Locate the jack below the reinforced point

on the sill (don’t jack the vehicle at anyother point of the sill) and on firm ground

then turn the jack handle clockwise until thewheel is raised clear of the ground

6 Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove thewheel. Fit the spare wheel, and screw inthe bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with

the brace, and lower the vehicle to theground.

7 Securely tighten the wheel bolts in thesequence shown, Refit the wheel trim,and stow the punctured wheel and tools.

8 The wheel bolts should be slackened andretightened to the specified torque at theearliest possible opportunity

Finally...0 Remove the wheel chocks.

0 Stow the jack and tools in the correctlocations in the car.

0 Check the tyre pressure on the wheel justfitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have apressure gauge with you, drive slowly tothe nearest garage and inflate the tyre tothe right pressure.

0 Have the damaged tyre or wheel repairedas soon as possible.

Roadside repairs 0.9

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, orobvious wetness under the bonnet orunderneath the car, suggest a leak that needsinvestigating. It can sometimes be difficult todecide where the leak is coming from,especially if the engine bay is very dirtyalready. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blownrearwards by the passage of air under the car,giving a false impression of where theproblem lies.

Sump oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

Antifreeze

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystallinedeposit like this.

When all else fails, you may find yourselfhaving to get a tow home - or of course youmay be helping somebody else. Long-distancerecovery should only be done by a garage orbreakdown service. For shorter distances, DIYtowing using another car is easy enough, butobserve the following points:q Use a proper tow-rope - they are notexpensive. The vehicle being towed mustdisplay an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.q Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’position when the vehicle is being towed, sothat the steering lock is released, and that thedirection indicator and brake lights will work.0 Only attach the tow-rope to the towingeyes provided.0 Before being towed, release the handbrakeand select neutral on the transmission.0 Note that greater- than-usual pedal

A Warning: Most automotive oils

!and fluids are poisonous. Washthem off skin, and change out ofcontaminated clothing, withoutdelay.

. ..or from the base of the oil filter.

Brake fluid

A leak occurring at a wheel is almostcertainly brake fluid.

pressure will be required to operate thebrakes, since the vacuum servo unit is onlyoperational with the engine running.0 On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required.0 The driver of the car being towed mustkeep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoidsnatching.0 Make sure that both drivers know the routebefore setting off.q Only drive at moderate speeds and keepthe distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowingdown at junctions.q The front towing eye is supplied as part 01the tool kit stored in the luggagecompartment. To fit the eye, carefully priseout the removable panel from the frontbumper. Securely screw the eye into position,

Identifying leaks

Gearbox oil

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at theinboard ends of the driveshafts.

Power steering fluid

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipeconnectors on the steering rack.

Towing(noting that on some models it may have aleft-handed thread) and tighten using thewheelbrace handle (see illustration).

The front towing eye is supplied as part ofthe vehicle tool kit and must be screwed

into position

0.10 Weekly checks

IntroductionThere are some very simple checks whichneed only take a few minutes to carry out, butwhich could save you a lot of inconvenienceand expense.

These “Weekly checks” require no great skillor special tools, and the small amount of timethey take to perform could prove to be verywell spent, for example;

q Keeping an eye on tyre condition andpressures, will not only help to stop themwearing out prematurely, but could also saveyour life.

0 Many breakdowns are caused by electricalproblems. Battery-related faults are particularlycommon, and a quick check on a regular basiswill often prevent the majority of these.

Underbonnet check points

q If your car develops a brake fluid leak, thefirst time you might know about it is whenyour brakes don’t work properly. Checkingthe level regularly will give advance warning ofthis kind of problem.

0 If the oil or coolant levels run low, the costof repairing any engine damage will be fargreater than fixing the leak, for example.

1 1.3 litre modelA Engine oil level dipstick

B Engine oil filler cap

C Coolant expansion tank

DBrake fluid reservoir

E Screen washer fluid reservoir

F Battery

Engine oil levelBefore you startV Make sure that your car is on level ground.V Check the oil level before the car is driven,or at least 5 minutes after the engine has beenswitched off.

The correct oilModern engines place great demands on theiroil. It is very important that the correct oil foryour car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids andtyre pressures”).

Car Care0 If you have to add oil frequently, you shouldcheck whether you have any oil leaks. Placesome clean paper under the car overnight,and check for stains in the morning. If thereare no leaks, the engine may be burning oil(see “Fault Finding”). Overfilling the enginewith oil may lead to catalytic converter failure.

l Always maintain the level between theupper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).If the level is too low severe engine damagemay occur. Oil seal failure may result if theengine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Weekly checks 0.11

1 The dipstick top is often brightly colouredfor easy identification (see “Underbonnetcheck points” on page 0.10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick from its tube.

3 Note the oil level on the end of thedipstick, which should be between theupper (‘MAX’) mark and the lower (‘MIN’)

mark. Adding approximately 1 .O litre of oil willraise the level from the lower to the uppermark.

2 Using a clean rag, remove all oil from thedipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into thetube as far as it will go, then withdraw it

again. Keep the handle up so the oil doesn’trun along the dipstick to give a false reading.

4 Oil is added through the oil filler cap -unscrew the cap and top up the level; afunnel may help to reduce spillage. Add

the oil 0.5 litre at a time, checking the level onthe dipstick frequently. DO NOT overfill theengine (see Car Cafe).

Coolant level

A Warning: DO NOT attempt to

!remove the expansion tankpressure cap when the engineis hot, as there is a very greatrisk of scalding. Do not leaveopen containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care0 With a sealed-type cooling system, addingcoolant should not be necessary on a regularbasis. If frequent topping-up is required, it islikely there is a leak. Check the radiator, allhoses and joint faces for signs of staining orwetness, and rectify as necessary.

1 The coolant level var ies wi th thetemperature of the engine. When theengine is cold, the coolant level should be

between the “MAX” and “MIN” marks. Whenhot, the level may rise above the “MAX” mark.

2 If topping up is necessary, wait until theengine is cold. Slowly unscrew theexpansion tank cap, to release any

pressure present in the cooling system, andremove it.

0 It is important that antifreeze is used in thecooling system all year round, not just duringthe winter months. Don’t top-up with wateralone, as the antifreeze will become toodiluted.

3 Add a mixture of water and antifreeze tothe expansion tank until the coolant levelis halfway between the level marks. Refit

the cap and tighten it securely.

0.12 Weekly checks

Brake fluid levelWarning:0 Brake fluid can harm youreyes and damage pain tedsurfaces, so use extremecaution when handling andpouring it.0 Do not use fluid that hasbeen standing open for sometime, as it absorbs moisturefrom the air, which can cause adangerous loss of brakingeffectiveness.

Safety First!0 If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of a fluid leaksomewhere in the system, which should beinvestigated immediately.

0 If a leak is suspected, the car should not bedriven until the braking system has beenchecked. Never take any risks where brakesare concerned.

1 The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are shownon the front of the reservoir. The fluidlevel must be kept between the marks atall times. If topping-up is necessary, first

clean around the reservoir cap.

2 Unscrew the cap and carefully lift it out,taking care not to damage the levelswitch float. Inspect the reservoir; if thefluid is dirty the hydraulic system should

be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1)

3 Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spillit onto the surrounding components. Useonly the specified fluid; mixing different

types can cause damage to the system. Aftertopping-up to the correct level, securely refitthe cap and wipe off any spilt fluid

4 After topping-up the fluid level have anassistant depress the warning light testplunger on the top of the reservoir. With

the ignition switched on, the warning light onthe instrument panel should light up

Screen washerfluid level

Screenwash additives not only keep thewinscreen clean during foul weather, they alsoprevent the washer system freezing in coldweather - which is when you are likely to need itmost. Don’t top up using plain water as thescreenwash will become too diluted, and willfreeze during cold weather.On no account use coolant antifreeze in the 1 The screen washer fluid reservoirwasher system - this could discolour or (arrowed) is located in the front left-handdamage paintwork. corner of the engine compartment.

2 The screen washer level can be seenthrough the reservoir body. If topping-upis necessary, open the cap. When

topping-up the reservoir, add a screenwashadditive in the quantities recommended onthe bottle.

Weekly checks 0.13

Wiper blades

1 Check the condition of the wiper blades; To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull . . . then remove the blade from the arm.if they are cracked or show any signs of 2 the arm fully away from the screen until it 3deterioration, or if the glass swept area is locks. Swivel the blade through 90” and

smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should slide it downwards . . .be renewed annually.

BatteryCaution: Before carrying out any work on thevehicle battery, read the precautions given in“Safety first” at the start of this manual,(/ Make sure that the battery tray is in goodcondition, and that the clamp is tight,Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and thebattery itself can be removed with a solutionof water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse allcleaned areas with water. Any metal partsdamaged by corrosion should be coveredwith a zinc-based primer, then painted.(/Periodically (approximately every threemonths), check the charge condition of thebattery as described in Chapter 5A.d If the battery is flat, and you need to jumpstart your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

1 The battery is located in the plenumchamber at the rear right-hand side of theengine compartment. The exterior of the

battery should be inspected periodically fordamage such as a cracked case or cover.

2 Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)to ensure good electrical connections.You should not be able to move them.

Also check each cable (B) for cracks andfrayed conductors.

3 If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) isevident, remove the cables from thebattery terminals, clean them with a small

wire brush, then refit them. Automotive storessell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

4 . . . as well as the battery cable clamps

0.14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressureIt is very important that tyres are in goodcondition, and at the correct pressure - havinga tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harshbraking and acceleration, or fast cornering,will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As ageneral rule, the front tyres wear out fasterthan the rears. Interchanging the tyres fromfront to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result inmore even wear. However, i f th is iscompletely effective, you may have theexpense of replacing all four tyres at once!Remove any nails or stones embedded in thetread before they penetrate the tyre to causedeflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail sothat its point of penetration is marked. Thenimmediately change the wheel, and have thetyre repaired by a tyre dealer.Regularly check the tyres for damage in theform of cuts or bulges, especially in thesidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,and clean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage.Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels mayalso become dented or buckled. A new wheelis very often the only way to overcome severedamage.

1 Tread Depth - visual checkThe original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the treaddepth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Theband positions are indicated by a triangularmark on the tyre sidewall (A).

2 Tread Depth - manual checkAlternatively, tread wear can be

monitored with a simple, inexpensive deviceknown as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)Under-inflation will cause overheating of thetyre, because the tyre will flex too much, andthe tread will not sit correctly on the roadsurface. This will cause a loss of grip andexcessive wear, not to mention the danger ofsudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.Check and adjust pressuresIncorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)Repair or renew suspension partsHard corneringReduce speed!

New tyres should be balanced when they arefitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balanceweights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, aswill the steering and suspension components.Wheel imbalance is normally signified byvibration, particularly at a certain speed(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration isfelt only through the steering, then it is likelythat just the front wheels need balancing. If,however, the vibration is felt through thewhole car, the rear wheels could be out ofbalance. Wheel balancing should be carriedout by a tyre dealer or garage.

3 Tyre Pressure CheckCheck the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyrepressures immediately after the vehicle hasbeen used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Centre Wear Uneven Wear

OverinflationOver-inflation will cause rapid wear of thecentre part of the tyre tread, coupled withreduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger ofshock damage occurring in the tyre casing.Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’styres to the higher pressures specified formaximum load or sustained high speed, don’tforget to reduce the pressures to normalafterwards.

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers andgarages can check and adjust the wheelalignment (or “tracking”) for a modest charge.Incorrect camber or castorRepair or renew suspension partsMalfunctioning suspensionRepair or renew suspension partsUnbalanced wheelBalance tyresIncorrect toe settingAdjust front wheel alignmentNote: The feathered edge of the tread whichtypifies toe wear is best checked by fee/.

Weekly checks 0.15

Bulbs and fuses

0 Check all external lights and the horn. Referto the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 fordetails if any of the circuits are found to beinoperative.

(/Visually check all accessible wiringconnectors, harnesses and retaining clips forsecurity, and for signs of chafing or damage.

1 If a single indicator light, stop-light orheadlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb 2 If more than one indicator light or tail light

has failed it is likely that either a fuse hashas blown and will need to be replaced. blown or that there is a fault in the circuit.

Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop- The fuses are located in the plenum chamber atlights have failed, it is possible that the switch the left-hand rear of the engine compartment.has failed (see Chapter 9). To replace a blown fuse, squeeze the cover and

remove it from the fusebox, then simply pull outthe blown fuse and fit a new one of the correctrating. If the fuse blows again, it is importantthat you find out why - a complete checkingprocedure is given in Chapter 12.

0.16 Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40to 2OW/50, to WV specification 501 01

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 or 75W-90

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT4

Tyre pressuresUp to half load - bar (psi): Front Rear135R13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 (28) 1.9(28)

145Rl3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 (25) 1.7 (25)

155/70R13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 (26) 1.8 (26)

165/65R13 or 175/60R13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 (26) 1.8 (26)

Full load - bar (psi): Front Rear

135R13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.5 (36)

145R13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 (28) 2.2 (32)

155/7OR13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 (31) 2.4 (35)

165/65R13 or 175/60R13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.6 (38)

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary slightly if any other make of tyre is fitted; check with the tyremanufacturer or supplier for the correct pressures if necessary. The correct pressures for each individual vehicle are usually givenon a sticker inside the glovebox lid or inside the fuel filler flap. This information may conflict with that shown above - in this case,consult your VW dealer for the latest recommendations.

The spare wheel should be kept at the highest full-load pressure.

Chapter 1Routine maintenance and servicing

ContentsAir filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Brake system and fluid leakage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Clutch play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine management system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Exhaust emission and idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . .Exhaustsystemcheck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Frontbrakepad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Degrees of difficulty

. . . . . . . . 17 Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

. . . . . . . . 15 Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

. . . . . . . . 22 Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

. . . . . . . . . 7 Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

. . . . . . . . . 4 Rear brake shoe check - models with rear drum brakes . . . . . . . . . . .3

. . . . . . . . 23 Roadtest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..12

. . . . . . . . 10 Sliding roof runner lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

. . . . . . . . 13 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

. . . . . . . . . 1 Steeringandsuspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . 14 Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

. . . . . . . . . 8 Underbody sealant condition check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

. . . . . . . . . 2

1.2 Servicing specificationsLubricants and fluids - Refer to end of “weekly checks”

CapacitiesEngine oilAll except G40 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G40models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Transmission4speed models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5speed models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fueltank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Washer reservoirsModels with headlight washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Models without headlight washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

EngineOil filter:

Engine codes AAU, 3F (to 07/92), PY (to 07/90) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine codes AAV, 3F (from 08192) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine codes PY (from 08/90) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cooling systemAntifreeze mixture:

28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Fuel systemAir filter element:

Enginecodes AAUAAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .EnginecodesPY,3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ignition systemIgnition timing, all models (basic setting) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Spark plugs:

EnginecodesAAU,AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecodes3F,PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Electrodegap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Auxiliary drivebelt (v-belt) deflectionNew belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BrakesBrake pad friction material minimum thickness (including backplate) . .Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Torque wrench settingsAlternator tensioning nut:

Initial tightening:New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Final tightening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Alternator tensioning nut lockscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Alternator upper mounting screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Alternator tensioning strut screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-charger bracket tensioning torque:

New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

G-charger mounting bracket screws:M12 screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .M8 screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sumpdrainplug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Spark plugs:

All models except G40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G40 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wheel bolts.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.5 litres3.25 litres

5.6 litres (approx)

2.2 litres3.1 litres

42 litres

4.5 litres7.5 litres

Champion C160Champion C181Champion C155

Protection down to -15°C (5°F)Protection down to -30°C (-22°F)

Champion W102Champion U505Champion L206

5± 1° BTDC

Champion N7BYCChampion NGBYCN/A (refer to spark plug manufacturer’s specification)

2 mm max.5 mm max.

7.0 mm2.5 mm

Nm Ibf ft

8 64 38 635 2635 2620 15

135 10080 59

80 5930 2230 22

20 1525 18110 81

Maintenance schedule 1.3The maintenance intervals in this manual If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak performance and resale value of your vehicle.

are provided with the assumption that you, condition at all times, you may wish to When the vehicle is new, it should benot the dealer, will be carrying out the work. perform some of these procedures more serviced by a factory-authorised dealerThese are the minimum maintenance intervals often. We encourage frequent maintenance, service department, in order to preserve therecommended by us for vehicles driven daily. because it enhances the efficiency, factory warranty.

1.4 Maintenance & servicing

Underbonnet view of a 1.3 litre model1 Battery2 Brake fluid reservoir3 Brake servo4 Throttle body5 Fuel injectors6 Spark plugs7 Oil filler cap8 Air cleaner/air flow meter

assembly9 Timing belt cover10 Ignition distributor11 Coo/ant expansion tank12 Front suspension strut

top mounting13 Ignition coil14 Exhaust CO sampling pipe

Front underbody view1 Alternator2 Radiator3 Oil filter4 Front brake caliper5 Driveshaft6 Catalytic converter7 Lambda sensor8 Gearchange linkage9 Anti-roll bar11 Lower suspension arm

Maintenance & servicing 1.5

Rear underbody view1234

5678

Exhaust tailboxRear shock absorberRear axle beamRear brake pressurreregulating valveHandbrake cableFuel filterLine fuel pumpAccumulator

we

Maintenance proceduresGeneral information

This Chapter is designed to help the homemechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter c o n t a i n s a mastermaintenance schedule, followed by Sectionsdealing specifically with each task in theschedule. Visual checks, adjustments,component renewal and other helpful itemsare included. Refer to the accompanyingillustrations of the engine compartment andthe underside of the vehicle for the locationsof the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance withthe mileage/time maintenance schedule andthe following Sections will provide a plannedmaintenance programme, which should resultin a long and reliable service life. This is acomprehensive plan, so maintaining someitems but not others at the specified serviceintervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you willdiscover that many of the procedures can -

and should - be grouped together, because ofthe particular procedure being performed, orbecause of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. Forexample, if the vehicle is raised for anyreason, the exhaust can be inspected at thesame time as the suspension and steeringcomponents.

The f i rs t s tep in this maintenanceprogramme is to prepare yourself before theactual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carriedout, then make a list and gather all the partsand tools required. If a problem isencountered, seek advice from a partsspecialist, or a dealer service department.

Intensive maintenanceIf, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followedclosely, and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high-wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will be

kept in relatively good running condition, andthe need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times whenthe engine is running poorly due to the lack ofregular maintenance. This is even more likelyif a used vehicle, which has not receivedregular and frequent maintenance checks, ispurchased. In such cases, additional workmay need to be carried out, outside of theregular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compressiontest (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2)will provide valuable information regarding theoverall performance of the main internalcomponents. Such a test can be used as abasis to decide on the extent of the work tobe carried out. If, for example, a compressiontest indicates serious internal engine wear,conventional maintenance as described in thisChapter wi l l not great ly improve theperformance of the engine, and may prove awaste of time and money, unless extensiveoverhaul work is carried out first.

1.6 Maintenance proceduresThe following series of operations are those

which are most often required to improve theperformance of a generally poor-runningengine:

Primary operationsa) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer

to “Weekly checks”).b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer

to “Weekly checks”).cl Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 15).d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7.6).

e) inspect the distributor cap and rotorarm (refer to the relevant Section ofChapter 5B).

f) Check the condition of the air filter, andrenew if necessary (Section 1 7).

g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 21).h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 5).i) Check the exhaust gas emissions (refer to

Section 14).If the above operations do not prove fully

effective, carry out the following secondaryoperations:

10 000 mile/12 month service

Secondary operationsAll items listed under “Primary operations”,plus the following:a) Check the charging system (refer to the

relevant Section of Chapter 5A).b) Check the ignition system (refer to the

relevant Section of Chapter 5B).c) Check the fuel system (see relevant

Section of Chapter 4A or B as applicable).d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor am,

(refer to the relevant Section of Chapter 5B).e) Renew the ignition HT leads (refer to the

relevant Section of Chapter 50).

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the mostimportant preventative maintenanceprocedures which can be undertaken by theDIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomesdiluted and contaminated, which leads topremature engine wear.2 Before starting this procedure, gather allthe necessary tools and materials. Also makesure that you have plenty of clean rags andnewspapers handy, to mop up any accidentalspills.3 The oil draining procedure should ideally becarried out when the engine is warm, as warmoil runs more freely than cold oil. In addition,more built-up engine ‘sludge’ will be removedwith the oil, as it is drained . Take care,however, not to touch the exhaust or anyother hot parts of the engine when workingunder the vehicle. To avoid any possibility ofscalding, and to protect yourself frompossible skin irritants and other harmfulcontaminants in used engine oils, it isadvisable to wear gloves when carrying outthis work.4 Access to the underside of the vehicle willbe greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift,

1.5 Using a socket and wrench or a ringspanner, slacken the sump drain plug

(arrowedl

driven onto ramps, or jacked up andsupported on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”). Whichever method ischosen, make sure that the vehicle remainslevel, or (if it has been jacked-up at an angle),that the drain plug is at the lowest point.5 Using a socket and wrench or a ringspanner, slacken the sump drain plug abouthalf a turn until it can be rotated by hand (seeillustration). Position the draining containerunder the drain plug, (noting that the streamof oil may initially run out at an angle, ratherthan straight down) then unscrew the plugcompletely (see Haynes Hint). Recover thesealing ring from the drain plug.6 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,noting that it may be necessary to repositionthe container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.If you are working outside, shield thecontainer from draughts that may splash thestream of oil onto the ground.7 After all the oil has drained, wipe off thedrain plug with a clean rag, and fit a newsealing washer. Clean the area around thedrain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tightenthe plug securely.8 If the filter is also to be renewed, move thecontainer into position under the oil filter,

which is located on the front side of thecylinder block, below the inlet manifold.9 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,slacken the filter initially (by turning it in ananticlockwise direction), then unscrew it byhand the rest of the way (see illustration).Note that the filter will still contain some oil -be prepared for an amount of leakage as thefilter is unscrewed. Hold it with the sealingface uppermost until it can be emptied intothe draining container.10 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt andsludge from the filter sealing area on theengine. Check the old filter to make sure thatthe rubber sealing ring has not stuck to theengine. If it has, carefully remove it.11 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil tothe sealing ring on the new filter, then screw itinto position on the engine. Tighten the filterfirmly by hand only - do not use any tools, asthese may damage the outer surface filter.12 Remove the old oil and all tools fromunder the car then lower the car to the ground(if applicable).13 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oilfiller cap from the cylinder head cover or oilfiller/breather neck (as applicable). Fill theengine, using the correct grade and type of oil(refer to “Lubricants fluids and capacities”). Anoil can spout or funnel may help to reducespillage. Pour in half the specified quantity ofoil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to

.

1.9 Turn the oil filter anticlockwise toslacken it - use a chain wrench if

necessary

,

10 000 mile/12 month service 1.7collect in the sump. Continue adding oil asmall quantity at a time until the level is justabove the lower mark on the dipstick. Addingapproximately 1.0 litres will raise the levelfrom the lower mark to the upper mark on thedipstick. Refit the filler cap.14 Start the engine and run it for a fewminutes; check for leaks around the oil filterseal and the sump drain plug. Note that theremay be a delay of a few seconds before the oilpressure warning light goes out when theengine is first started, as the oil circulatesthrough the engine oil galleries and (whereapplicable) the new oil filter before thepressure builds up. If the oil pressure warninglight does not extinguish after the engine hasstarted and run for several seconds, stop theengine immediately and check for leaksaround the components that have beendisturbed.15 Switch off the engine, and wait a fewminutes for the new oil to settle into the sump.With the new oil circulated and the filter nowcompletely full, recheck the level on thedipstick, and add more oil as necessary.16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, withreference to “General repair procedures” inthe Reference Sections of this manual.

2.2a Checking the front brake outer padlinings for wear with a steel rule

2 Front brake pad check

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack upthe front of the car and support it securely onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove the front roadwheels.2 Using a steel rule, measure the combinedthickness of the lining and backing of thebrake pads on both front brakes. This mustnot be less than 7.0 mm. Check the inner pad

2.2b Check the front brake inner padlinings through the hole in the caliper

through the hole on the front of the caliper(see illustrations).3 For a comprehensive check, the brake padsshould be removed and cleaned. Theoperation of the caliper can then also bechecked, and the condition of the brake discitself can be fully examined on both sides.Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.4 If any pad’s friction material is worn to thespecified thickness or less, all four pads must.be renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9.5 On completion refit the roadwheels andlower the car to the ground.

Every 12 months - regardless of mileage .

1 Jack up the rear of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehic lesupport”). Do not remove the wheels.2 Working beneath the car remove the rubberplugs from the front of the backplates andcheck that the linings are not worn below theminimum thickness given in the Specifications(see illustration). If necessary use a torch.3 If the friction material on any shoe is worndown to the specified minimum thickness orless, all four shoes must be renewed as a set.

3.2 Rear brake shoe lininginspection plug location

4 At the same time check for signs of brakefluid leakage.5 For a comprehensive check, the brakedrum should be removed and cleaned. Thiswill allow the wheel cylinders to be checked,and the condition of the brake drum itself tobe fully examined (see Chapter 9).6 Refit the rubber plugs then lower the car tothe ground.

Note: This procedure does not apply tovehicles fitted with an automatic clutch cab/eadjustment mechanism.

Measurement1 Park the vehicle and switch off the engine.Select neutral, then depress the clutch pedalseveral times, to settle the release mechanismcomponents. With no pressure applied to thepedal, measure the distance between thepedal rubber and a fixed reference point, suchas the bottom edge of the steering wheel - alength of batten can be used to serve as ameasuring rule.2 Gradually apply pressure to the clutchpedal, until firm resistance is felt, indicatingthat the release mechanism is beginning to

disengage the clutch. At this point, repeat themeasurement described in paragraph 1.3 Compare the measurement with the valuelisted in the Specifications - if the free playexceeds the maximum permitted, adjust thecable as described in the following sub- :Section.

Adjustment4 Open the bonnet and locate the clutchcable adjusting nut, on the upper surface ofthe transmission casing.5 Rotate the nut through half a turn, using aspanner, to take up the slack in the cable.Measure the clutch pedal freeplay again, asdescribed in the previous sub-Section.6 Repeat the operations described inparagraphs 4 and 5 until the correct pedalfreeplay is achieved.

5

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oilleaks. Pay particular attention to the areasaround the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oilfilter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,over a period of time, some very slightseepage from these areas is to be expected -

1.8 Every 12 months - regardless of mileage

what you are really looking for is anyindication of a serious leak (see HaynesHint). Should a leak be found, renew theoffending gasket or oil seal by referring to theappropriate Chapters in this manual.2 Also check the security and condition of allthe engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensurethat all cable-ties or securing clips are in placeand in good condition. Clips which are brokenor missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,pipes or wiring, which could cause moreserious problems in the future.3 Carefully check the radiator hoses andheater hoses along their entire length. Renewany hose which is cracked, swollen ordeteriorated. Cracks will show up better if thehose is squeezed. Pay close attention to thehose clips that secure the hoses to thecooling system components. Hose clips canpinch and puncture hoses, resulting in coolingsystem leaks.4 Inspect all the cooling system components(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in thecooling system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the areaadjoining the leak. Where any problems of thisnature are found on system components,renew the component or gasket wi threference to Chapter 3.5 On G40 models, check the oil supply andreturn line unions at the supercharger forleakage. Any reduction in the oil supply to thesupercharger will accelerate wear and mayultimately result in failure.6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petroltank and filler neck for punctures, cracks andother damage. The connection between thefiller neck and tank is especially critical.Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connectinghose will leak due to loose retaining clamps ordeteriorated rubber.7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metalfuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.Check for loose connections, deterioratedhoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Payparticular attention to the vent pipes andhoses, which often loop up around the fillerneck and can become blocked or crimped.Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,

8.3a Check the exhaust pipe connections(arrowed) for evidence of leaks, severe

corrosion and damage

8.3b Make sure that all brackets and /mountings (arrowed) are in good condition

carefully inspecting them all the way. Renewdamaged sections as necessary.8 From within the engine compartment,check the security of all fuel hose attachmentsand pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hosesand vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing anddeterioration,

Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doorsand tailgate with a light general-purpose oil.Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lockstrikers. At the same time, check the securityand operation of all the locks, adjusting themif necessary (see Chapter 11).

Lightly lubricate the bonnet releasemechanism and cable with a suitable grease.

1 Park the vehicle on a level surface andswitch off the engine. Chock the front wheelsand select first gear, then raise the rear of thevehicle and rest it securely on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).2 With the engine cold (wait at least an hourafter switching off the engine), check the

complete exhaust system from the engine tothe end of the tailpipe.3 Check the exhaust pipes and connectionsfor evidence of leaks, severe corrosion anddamage. Make sure that all brackets andmountings are in good condition, and that allrelevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage atany of the joints or in other parts of the systemwill usually show up as a black sooty stain inthe vicinity of the leak (see illustrations).4 Rattles and other noises can often betraced to the exhaust system, especially thebrackets and mountings. Try to move thepipes and silencers. If the components areable to come into contact with the body orsuspension parts, secure the system with newmountings. Otherwise, with reference toChapter 4C, loosen the joints betweenadjacent sections of the exhaust pipe byslackening the clamps (where possible) andtwist the pipes as necessary to provideadditional clearance. Re-tighten the exhaustpipe clamps on completion.

s u s p e n s i o n a n d s t e e r i n g

1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securelysupport it on axle stands (see jacking andvehicle support”).2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust coversand the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters forsplits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear ofthese components will cause loss of lubricant,together with dirt and water entry, resulting inrapid deterioration of the balljoints or steeringgear.3 On vehicles with power steering, check thefluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, andthe pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Alsocheck for signs of fluid leakage underpressure from the steering gear rubbergaiters, which would indicate failed fluid sealswithin the steering gear.

Every 12 months - regardless of mileage 1.9

9.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings bygrasping the wheel and trying to rock it

4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (seeillustration). Very slight free play may be felt,but if the movement is appreciable, furtherinvestigation is necessary to determine thesource. Continue rocking the wheel while anassistant depresses the footbrake. If themovement is now eliminated or significantlyreduced, it is likely that the hub bearings areat fault. If the free play is still evident with thefootbrake depressed, then there is wear in thesuspension joints or mountings.5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.Any movement felt now may again be causedby wear in the hub bearings or the steeringtrack-rod balljoints. If the inner or outerballjoint is worn, the visual movement will beobvious.6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, checkfor wear in the suspension mounting bushesby levering between the relevant suspensioncomponent and its attachment point. Somemovement is to be expected as the mountingsare made of rubber, but excessive wearshould be obvious. Also check the conditionof any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,cracks or contamination of the rubber.7 With the car standing on its wheels, have anassistant turn the steering wheel back andforth about an eighth of a turn each way.There should be very little, if any, lostmovement between the steering wheel androadwheels. If this is not the case, closelyobserve the joints and mountings previouslydescribed, but in addition, check the steeringcolumn universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Suspension strut/shockabsorber check8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage aroundthe suspension strut/shock absorber body, orfrom the rubber gaiter around the piston rod.Should any fluid be noticed, the suspensionstrut/shock absorber is defective internally,and should be renewed. Note: Suspensionstruts/shock absorbers should always berenewed in pairs on the same axle.9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing

10.1 Check the condition of thedriveshaft gaiters

the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking,the body will return to its normal position andstop after being depressed. If it rises andreturns on a rebound, the suspensionstrut/shock absorber is probably suspect.Examine also the suspension strut/shockabsorber upper and lower mountings for anysigns of wear.

10 Driveshaft gaiter check

With the vehicle raised and securelysupported on stands, turn the steering ontofull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.Inspect the condition of the outer constantvelocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezingthe gaiters to open out the folds. Check forsigns of cracking, splits or deterioration of therubber, which may allow the grease toescape, and lead to water and grit entry intothe joint. Also check the security andcondition of the retaining clips. Repeat thesechecks on the inner CV jo in ts (seeillustration). If any damage or deterioration isfound, the gaiters should be renewed (seeChapter 8).

At the same time, check the generalcondition of the CV joints themselves by firstholding the driveshaft and attempting torotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holdingthe inner joint and attempting to rotate thedriveshaft. Any appreciable movementindicates wear in the joints, wear in thedriveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaftretaining nut.

11 Headlight beam alignmentcheck

1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beamis only possible using optical beam-settingequipment, and this work should therefore becarried out by a VW dealer or service stationwith the necessary facilities. In an emergency,however, the following procedure will providean acceptable light pattern.

11.4 Headlight beam adjustment screwsA Vertical adjustmentB Horizontal adjustment

2 Position the car on a level surface with tyrescorrectly inflated, approximately 10 metres infront of, and at right-angles to, a wall orgarage door.3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door atheadlamp centre height. Draw a vertical linecorresponding to the centre line of the car,then measure off a point either side of this, onthe horizontal line, corresponding with theheadlamp centres.4 Switch on the main beam and check thatthe areas of maximum illumination coincidewith the headlamp centre marks on the wall. Ifnot, turn the crosshead adjustment screwlocated on the inner vertical edge of theheadlight to adjust the beam laterally, and thecrosshead adjustment screw located on theouter lower corner of the headlight to adjustthe beam vertically (see illustration). O nmodels with a headlight adjustment on theinstrument panel, make sure that it is set at itsbasic setting before making the adjustment.

12 Road test

Instruments andelectrical equipment1 Check the operation of all instruments andelectrical equipment.2 Make sure that all instruments readcorrectly, and switch on all electricalequipment in turn, to check that it functionsproperly.

Steering and suspension3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,suspension, handling or road “feel”.4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there areno unusual vibrations or noises.5 Check that the steering feels positive, withno excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, andcheck for any suspension noises whencornering and driving over bumps.

Drive train6 Check the performance of the engine,clutch, gearbox/ transmission and driveshafts.

1.10 Every 12 months - regardless of mileage

13.1 Dashboard mounted diagnosticconnector (arrowed)

7 Listen for any unusual noises from theengine, clutch and gearbox/transmission.8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothlywhen idling, and that there is no hesitationwhen accelerating.9 Check that, where applicable, the clutchaction is smooth and progressive, that thedrive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedaltravel is not excessive. Also listen for anynoises when the clutch pedal is depressed.10 On manual gearbox models, check that allgears can be engaged smoothly withoutnoise, and that the gear lever action is notabnormally vague or “notchy”.11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound fromthe front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is drivenslowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.Carry out this check in both directions. If aclicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in adriveshaft joint, in which case renew the jointif necessary.

Braking system12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull toone side when braking, and that the wheelsdo not lock prematurely when braking hard.13 Check that there is no vibration throughthe steering when braking.14 Check that the handbrake operatescorrectly without excessive movement of thelever, and that it holds the car on a slope.

20 000 mile service

15 Auxiliary drivebeltcheck end renewal

Checking1 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.2 Park the vehicle on a level surface, applythe handbrake and chock the rear wheels.3 Raise the front of the vehicle, rest itsecurely on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”) and remove the right-handfront roadwheel.

15 Test the operation of the brake servo unitas follows. With the engine off, depress thefootbrake four or five times to exhaust thevacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed,then start the engine. As the engine starts,there should be a noticeable “give” in thebrake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow theengine to run for at least two minutes, andthen switch it off. If the brake pedal isdepressed now, it should be possible todetect a hiss from the servo as the pedal isdepressed. After about four or fivedepressions, no further hissing should beheard, and the pedal should feel considerablyharder.

13 Engine managementsystem check

1 This check is part of the manufacturer’smaintenance schedule, and involves testingthe engine management system using specialdedicated test equipment. Any fault codesstored in the ECU memory are extracted via adiagnostic socket (mounted on the dashboardunderneath the glovebox) and interpretedelectronically (see illustration).2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test is notessential, although it should be noted that it isrecommended by the manufacturer.3 The engine management system has theability to ‘override’ some component failuresby reverting to a ‘limp-home’ or ‘backup’mode. Because of this, component failuremay not always be immediately obvious,although some side-effects may be noticed;such as poor fuel economy, poor staring orhesitant acceleration. Having the fault logread electronically by a VW dealer willestablish whether any such failures haveoccurred.Caution: Although the VW Polo has adiagnostic socket, there is no safe methodof extracting the fault code information

4 Turn the steering to full right hand lock,then remove the plug from the access hole inthe inner wheel arch (see illustration) toexpose the crankshaft pulley bolt.5 Using a socket and wrench on thecrankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaftso that the full length of the auxiliary drivebeltcan be examined. Look for cracks, splittingand fraying on the surface of the belt; checkalso for signs of glazing (shiny patches) andseparation of the belt plies. If damage or wear

without using dedicated test equipment.The use of improvised tools for thispurpose may result in internal damage tothe engine management system electroniccontrol unit.4 If access to suitable test equipment is notpossible, make a thorough check of allignition, fuel and emission control systemcomponents, hoses, and wiring, for securityand obvious signs of damage. Further detailsof the fuel system, emission control systemand ignition system can be found in Chapter4A, B and C and Chapter 5B.

1 Experienced home mechanics equippedwith an accurate tachometer and a carefully-calibrated exhaust gas analyser may be ableto check the exhaust gas CO content and theengine idle speed; if these are found to be outof specification, then the vehicle must betaken to a suitably-equipped VW dealer forassessment. Idle speed and exhaust COadjustment screws are provided (multi-pointfuel-injected models only - refer to Chapter 4Bfor details), but adjustment will not bepossible if the engine management systemhas detected a fault in one of the fuelling orignition system components. Under thesecircumstances, the engine managementsystem will enter a ‘back-up’ mode and willnot respond to adjustment. For this reason,all fault codes must be erased from the enginemanagement system memory before the idlespeed and exhaust CO settings can bechecked and adjusted - this operation mustbe carried out by a VW dealer equipped withthe required test equipment (see Section 13).Caution: inaccurate CO adjustment maycause overfuelling and the risk of seriouscatalytic converter damage.

8 Check the belt tension as follows: apply 15.4 Remove the plug in the inner wheelthumb pressure to the belt at a point on its arch to gain access to the crankshaftlongest run, midway between two pulleys and pulley bolt (arrowed)

20 000 mile service 1.11

15.6 Checking theauxiliary drive belt tension

assess the amount of deflection that can becaused (see illustration). Compare thismeasurement with that listed in the Specifica-tions. If necessary, refer to the relevant sub-Section and correctly tension the belt.

Tensioning

All models except G407 Slacken the alternator mounting screws,until the alternator can be moved by hand.6 Working underneath the alternator, slackenthe tensioning strut pivot mountings. Slackenthe tensioner nut lockscrew by one turn (seeillustration).9 Tighten the tensioning nut to the specified‘initial’ torque - this sets the belt tension - thenhold the nut in this position and tighten thetensioning nut lockscrew to the specifiedtorque. Note: The tensioning nut ‘initial’torque figure differs for new and old belts -see Specifications for details10 Re-tighten the alternator and tensioningstrut mounting screws to the specified torque,then start the engine and run it for about 5minutes, to allow the belt to settle.11 Stop the engine, then re-tension the Vee-belt, as described in paragraphs 8 to 10, butthis time tighten the tensioning nut to the‘final’ torque figure specified.

G40 models with single or twinauxiliary Vee-belts12 The belt tension is set by rotating theG-charger on its mountings, as follows:

15.8 Auxiliary drivebelt tensioning strut,at the base of the alternator

(all models except G40)1 Tensioner nut lockscrew2 Tensioner nut

13 With reference to Chapter 4B, slacken theG-charger mounting bracket screws.14 Insert a square drive torque wrench intothe adjusting hole at the edge of theG-charger mounting bracket (see illus-trations). Note: On mode/s built beforeDecember 1990 it will be necessary to firstremove the front radiator grille - refer toChapter 11 for details.15 Rotate the wrench anti-clockwise andapply the specified tensioning torque to theG-charger mounting bracket - this sets thebelt tension. Hold the G-charger in thisposition, then tighten the mounting bracketscrews to the specified torque. Note: Thetensioning torque figure differs for new andold belts - see Specifications for details.16 Refit the radiator front grille, whereapplicable.

Renewal

All models except G4017 With reference to the information given inparagraph 7, slacken the alternator andadjusting strut screws, then pivot thealternator towards the engine to relieve thetension on the belt.18 Remove the belt, then clean off anydeposits that may have built up in the ‘vee’ ofthe crankshaft and alternator pulleys.

19 Fit the new belt to the crankshaft andalternator pulleys, then refer to the relevantsub-Section and adjust the belt tension.

G40 models with single or twinauxiliary V-belts20 With reference to the information given inparagraph 13, slacken the mounting bracketscrews, then allow the G-charger to pivotdown towards the engine to relieve thetension on the belt(s).21 Lift the off the belt(s), then clean off anydeposits that may have built up in the ‘vee’ ofthe crankshaft, alternator and G-chargerpulleys.22 Fit the new belt over the pulleys, thenrefer to the relevant sub-Section and adjustthe belt tension.

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs isvital for the correct running and efficiency ofthe engine. It is essential that the plugs fittedare appropriate for the engine (a suitable typeis specified at the beginning of this Chapter). Ifthis type is used and the engine is in goodcondition, the spark plugs should not needattention between scheduled replacementintervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarelynecessary, and should not be attempted unlessspecialised equipment is available, as damagecan easily be caused to the electrodes.2 If the marks on the original-equipment sparkplug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads“1” to “4”, to correspond to the cylinder thelead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing beltend of the engine). Pull the leads from theplugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead,otherwise the internal lead connection may befractured (see illustration).3 It is advisable to remove any dirt from thespark plug recesses using a clean brush orcompressed air before removing the plugs, toprevent dirt dropping into the cylinders (seeillustration). Note: On engine codes AAU,AAV it will be necessary to remove the aircleaner housing to gain access to the plugs.

15.14b Auxiliary drivebelt tensioning -post-December 1990 G40 models

16.2 Pull the leads from the plugs bygripping the end fitting

1.12 20 000 mile service

16.3 It is advisable to remove any debrisfrom the spark plug recesses using a clean

brush before removing the plugs, toprevent it from dropping into the cylinders

16.4a Unscrew the plugs using aspark plug spanner, or a spark plug socket

and extension bar

16.4b Removing a spark plug

4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plugspanner, suitable box spanner or a deepsocket and extension bar. Keep the socketaligned with the spark plug - if it is forciblymoved to one side, the ceramic insulator maybe broken off (see illustrations). As each plugis removed, examine it as follows.5 Examination of the spark plugs will give agood indication of the condition of the engine.If the insulator nose of the spark plug is cleanand white, with no deposits, this is indicativeof a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plugtransfers heat away from the electrode slowly,a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).6 If the tip and insulator nose are coveredwith hard black-looking deposits, then this isindicative that the mixture is too rich. Shouldthe plug be black and oily, then it is likely thatthe engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixturebeing too rich.7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tanto greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture iscorrect and it is likely that the engine is ingood condition.8 The spark plug electrode gap is ofconsiderable importance as, if it is too large ortoo small, the size of the spark and itsefficiency will be seriously impaired. The gapshould be set to the value recommended bythe spark plug manufacturer.9 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler bladeand then bend open, or closed, the outer plugelectrode until the correct gap is achieved. Thecentre electrode should never be bent, as thismay crack the insulator and cause plug failure,

It Is very often difficult to Insert sparkplugs into their ho/es without cross-threading them. To avoid thispossibility, fit a short length of 5/ 16inch internal diameter rubber hose overthe and of the spark plug. The flexiblehose acts as a universal joint to helpalign the plug with the plug hole.Should the plug begin to cruss-thread,the hose will slip on the spark plug,preventing thread damage to thealuminium. cylinderer head

16.9 Adjusting the spark plugelectrode gap

if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gapis correct when the appropriate-size blade is afirm sliding fit (see illustration).Caution: Check the spark plug packagingfor the manufacturers recommendations -some types have multiple or specially-shaped electrodes, which are pm-gappedand hence not adjustable.1 0 Electrode gap adjust ing tools areavailable from most motor accessory shops,or from some spark plug manufacturers.11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connector sleeves are tight, andthat the plug exterior surfaces and threads areclean (see Haynes Hint).12 Remove the rubber hose (if used), andtighten the plug to the specified torque settingusing the spark plug socket and a torque

wrench. Refit the remaining spark plugs in thesame manner.13 Connect the HT leads in their correctorder, and refit any components removed foraccess.

17 Air filter renewal

1 Prise open the spring clips and lift off the aircleaner top cover (see illustrations)Caution: On multi-point fuel-injectedmodels, the air flow meter is integral withthe air cleaner top cover - handle thiscomponent very carefully as it can easilybe damaged.

17.1a Unclipping the air cleanertop cover - single-point

fuel-injected models

17.1 b Removing the air cleaner topcover/air flow meter - multi-point

fuel-injected models

20 000 mile service 1.13

17.2a Lifting out the air cleaner element -multi-point fuel-injected models

2 L i f t out the a i r f i l ter e lement (seeillustrations).3 Brush out any debris that may havecollected inside the air cleaner.4 Lay the new air filter element in position inthe lower half of the air cleaner housing,ensuring that the rubberised edges aresecurely seated in the recess at the outeredge.5 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap theretaining clips into position. Where applicableon single-point fuel-injection models, thealignment arrows on the top cover must lineup (see illustration).

17.2b Lifting out the air cleaner element -single-point fuel-injected models

1 Open the sliding roof, then clean therunners with a cloth rag.2 Spray the runners with a suitable siliconelubricant (available from most car accessoryshops).3 Close the sliding roof.

17.5 Air cleaner top cover alignment -single-point fuel-injection models

Check the complete underbody, wheelhousings and side sills for damage to theunderbody sealant. If evident, repair asnecessary.

60 000 mile service

2 Working as described in Chapter 9, openthe first bleed screw in the sequence, andpump the brake pedal gently until nearly allthe old fluid has been emptied from themaster cylinder reservoir.

A Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid

!can harm your eyes and damagepainted surfaces, so useextreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Do not use fluid that hasbeen standing open for some time, as itabsorbs moisture from the air. Excessmoisture can cause a dangerous loss ofbraking effectiveness.1 The procedure is similar to that for thebleeding of the hydraulic system as describedin Chapter 9, except that the brake fluidreservoir should be emptied by siphoning,using a clean poultry baster or similar beforestarting, and allowance should be made forthe old fluid to be expelled when bleeding asection of the circuit.

3 Top-up to the “MAX” level with new fluid,and continue pumping until only the new fluidremains in the reservoir, and new fluid can beseen emerging from the bleed screw. Tightenthe screw, and top the reservoir level up to the“MAX” level line.4 Work through all the remaining bleedscrews in the sequence until new fluid can beseen at all of them. Be careful to keep themaster cylinder reservoir topped-up to abovethe “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter

the system and greatly increase the length ofthe task.5 When the operation is complete, check thatall bleed screws are securely tightened, andthat their dust caps are refitted. Wash off alltraces of spilt fluid, and recheck the mastercylinder reservoir fluid level.6 Check the operation of the brakes beforetaking the car on the road.

23 Coolant renewal

Cooling system draining

A Warning: Wait until the engine is

!cold before starting thisprocedure. Do not allowantifreeze to come in contact

with your skin, or with the painted

1.14 Every 2 years - regardless of mileagesurfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spillsimmediately with plenty of water. Neverleave antifreeze lying around in an opencontainer, or in a puddle in the driveway oron the garage floor. Children and pets areattracted by its sweet smell, but antifreezecan be fatal if ingested.1 With the engine completely cold, cover theexpansion tank cap with a wad of rag, andslowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieveany pressure in the cooling system (a hissingsound will normally be heard). Wait until anypressure remaining in the system is released,then continue to turn the cap until it can beremoved.2 Move the heater control to the ‘HOT’position. This is necessary in order to helpdrain the heater circuit, as a mechanicaltemperature valve is used in the system.3 Position a suitable container beneath theleft-hand side of the radiator, then release theretaining clip and ease the bottom hose fromthe radiator stub. If the hose joint has notbeen disturbed for some time, it will benecessary to gently twist the hose to breakthe joint. Do not use excessive force, or theradiator stub could be damaged. Allow thecoolant to drain into the container.4 If the coolant has been drained for a reasonother than renewal, then provided it is cleanand less than two years old, it can be re-used,though this is not recommended.5 Once all the coolant has drained, reconnectthe hose to the radiator and secure it inposition with the retaining clip.

Cooling system flushing6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or ifthe antifreeze mixture has become diluted,then in time, the cooling system may graduallylose efficiency, as the coolant passagesbecome restricted due to rust, scale deposits,and other sediment. The cooling systemefficiency can be restored by flushing thesystem clean.7 The radiator s h o u l d b e flushedindependently of the engine, to avoidunnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing6 To flush the radiator disconnect the top andbottom hoses from the radiator, withreference to Chapter 3.9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator topinlet. Direct a flow of clean water through theradiator, and continue flushing until cleanwater emerges from the radiator bottomoutlet.

10 If after a reasonable period, the water stilldoes not run clear, the radiator can be flushedwith a good proprietary cooling systemcleaning agent. It is important that themanufacturer’s instructions are followedcarefully. If the contamination is particularlybad, remove the radiator and invert it theninsert the hose in the radiator bottom outletand reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing1 1 To f lush the engine, remove thethermostat as described in Chapter 3 andleave the cover disconnected.12 With the top hose disconnected from theradiator, insert a garden hose into the radiatortop hose. Direct a clean flow of water throughthe engine, and continue flushing until cleanwater emerges from the thermostat housing inthe cylinder head outlet.13 On completion of flushing, refit thethermostat and reconnect the hoses withreference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling14 Before attempting to fill the coolingsystem, make sure that all hoses and clips arein good condition, and that the clips are tight.Note that an antifreeze mixture must be usedall year round, to prevent corrosion of theengine components (see following sub-Section).15 Check that the heater controls are set to“HOT”, then remove the rubber strip andplastic cover from the plenum chamberbehind the engine compartment, and loosenthe bleeder screw on the heater temperaturecontrol valve.16 Slowly pour the coolant into theexpansion tank. While doing this watch theheater bleeder, and tighten the screw whenbubble-free water comes out. If the coolant isbeing renewed, begin by pouring in a coupleof litres of water, followed by the correctquantity of antifreeze, then top-up with morewater.17 Once the level in the expansion tank startsto rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottomhoses to help expel any trapped air in thesystem. Once all the air is expelled, top-up thecoolant level to the “MAX” mark and refit theexpansion tank cap.16 Start the engine and run it until it reachesnormal operating temperature and the electriccooling fan switches on, then stop the engineand allow it to cool.19 Check for leaks, particularly arounddisturbed components. Check the coolantlevel in the expansion tank, and top-up if

necessary. Note that the system must be coldbefore an accurate level is indicated in theexpansion tank. If the expansion tank cap isremoved while the engine is still warm, coverthe cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew thecap slowly to gradually relieve the systempressure (a hissing sound will normally beheard). Wait until any pressure remaining inthe system is released, then continue to turnthe cap until it can be removed.26 Finally refit the plastic cover and rubberstrip to the plenum chamber, and reset theheater controls as necessary.

Antifreeze mixture21 The antifreeze should always be renewedat the specified intervals. This is necessarynot only to maintain the antifreeze properties,but also to prevent corrosion which wouldotherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitorsbecome progressively less effective.22 Always use an ethylene-glycol basedantifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity ofantifreeze and levels of protection areindicated in the Specifications.23 Before adding antifreeze, the coolingsystem should be completely drained,preferably flushed, and all hoses checked forcondition and security.24 After filling with antifreeze, a label shouldbe attached to the expansion tank, stating thetype and concentration of antifreeze used,and the date installed. Any subsequenttopping-up should be made with the sametype and concentration of antifreeze (seeillustration).25 Do not use engine antifreeze in thewindscreen/tailgate washer system, as it willcause damage to the vehicle paintwork. Ascreenwash additive should be added to thewasher system in the quantities stated on thebottle.

23.24 Topping up the cooling systemwith antifreeze

Chapter 2 Part A:Engine in-car repair procedures

ContentsAuxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1Camshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 2BCamshaft cover gasket - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Camshaft timing belt - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .4Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Cylinder compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 2BCylinder head, inlet and exhaust manifolds - removal,

separation and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Degrees of difficulty

Engine assembly and valve timing marks - general informationand usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1Engine oil level - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1Flywheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Hydraulic tappets - operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 0Oil pump and pickup - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .-. . . . . . .14Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Timing belt sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

SpecificationsEngine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine code lettersAAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

GeneralBore x stroke:

AAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum power output:AAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum torque:M U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Compression ratio:AAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Compression pressures at cranking speed:AAU, AAV, 3F:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Wearlimit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

PY:New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum pressure difference between adjacent cylinders . . . . . . . . . .Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Four cylinder in-line, overhead camshaft, transverse mounting

1043 cc, single-point fuel injection, catalyst.1272 cc, single-point fuel injection, catalyst.1272 cc, multi-point fuel injection, catalyst.1272 cc, multi-point fuel injection, supercharged, catalyst.

75 x 59 mm75x72mm75 x 72 mm75 x 72 mm

33 kW @ 5200 rpm40 kW @ 5000 rpm55 kW @ 5900 rpm83 kW @ 6000 rpm

76 Nm @ 2800 rpm95 Nm @ 3200-3400 rpm99 Nm @ 3200-4000 rpm150 Nm @ 3600-4400 rpm

9.819.5:110,0:18.0:1

10-15bar7 bar

8 - 12 bar6 bar3 barl-3-4-2 (No 1 at timing belt end)

2A.2 Engine in-car repair procedures

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ft

Cylinder head bolts (engine cold):Stage1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Stage2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Stage 3 (angle tighten) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + one half-turn (180”), OR + two quarter-turns (2x90°)

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48Camshaft cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Inlet manifold nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Exhaust manifold nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Flywheel bolts:

Stage1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Stage 2 (angle tighten) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + 90°

Sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Crankshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Crankshaft oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Auxiliary drivebelt pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Oil pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Oil pickup tube screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1 General information

1 The engine is of four cylinders, in-line,overhead camshaft type mountedtransversely at the front of the car, with thegearbox on the left-hand side. The top of theengine is inclined slightly forwards.2 The crankshaft is of five bearing type, andthe centre main bearing incorporatesthrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat.3 The camshaft is driven by a toothed timingbelt from a sprocket on the front of thecrankshaft, and the timing belt also drives thewater pump. The valves are operated byhydraulic tappets. The cylinder block is ofcast iron and the cylinder head of light alloy.4 The geared oil pump is located on the frontof the cylinder block and driven by thecrankshaft via a chain. A positive crankcaseventilation system is incorporated.

Major operations possible withthe engine in the car5 The following operations can be carried outwithout having to remove the engine from thecar:a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder

head, camshaft, and timing belt’.b) Removal of the flywheel and clutch (after

removing the gearbox).c) Renewal of the crankshaft front and rear

oil seals.d) Removal of the sump.e) Removal of the oil pump.f) Renewal of the engine mountings.

Major operations only possibleafter removal of the engine fromthe car6 The following operations can only be

carried out after removal of the engine fromthe car:

a) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings.b) Removal of the crankshaft.c) Removal of the pistons/connecting rods.

*Cylinder head dismantling procedures aredetailed in Chapter 2B and contain details ofcamshaft and hydraulic tappet removal.Note: It is possible to remove the pistons andconnecting rods (after removing the cylinderhead and sump) without removing the enginefrom the vehicle. However, this procedure isnot recommended. Work of this nature is moreeasily and thorough/y completed with theengine on the bench, as described in Chapter2B.

General informationNote: This sub-section has been written withthe assumption that the distributor, HT leadsand timing belt are correctly fitted.1 The camshaft sprocket is crankshaft-driven, by means of a timing belt, Bothsprockets rotate in phase with each other andthis provides the correct valve timing as theengine rotates. When the timing belt isremoved during servicing or repair, it ispossible for the cam and crankshafts to rotateindependently of each other and the correctvalve timing is then lost.2 The design of the engines covered in thisChapter is such that potentially damagingpiston-to-valve contact may occur if thecamshaft is rotated when a piston isstationary at, or near, the top of its stroke.3 For this reason, it is important that thecorrect phasing between the camshaft and

crankshaft is preserved whilst the timing beltis off the engine. This is achieved by settingthe engine in a reference condition (known asTop Dead Centre or TDC) before the timingbelt is removed and then preventing the shaftsfrom rotating until the belt is refitted. Similarly,if the engine has been dismantled foroverhaul, the engine can be set to TDC duringreassembly to ensure that the correct shaftphasing is restored.4 TDC is the h ighest pos i t ion a p is tonreaches within its respective cylinder - in afour stroke engine, each piston reaches TDCtwice per cycle; once on the compressionstroke and once on the exhaust stroke. Ingeneral, TDC normally refers to cylinder No 1on the compression stroke. (Note that thecylinders are numbered one to four from thetiming belt end of the engine).5 The crankshaft sprocket is equipped with amarking which, when aligned with a referencemarking on the timing belt cover, indicatesthat cylinder No 1 (and hence also No 4) is atTDC.6 The camshaft sprocket is also equippedwith a timing mark - when this is similarlyaligned, the engine is correctly positioned andthe timing belt can then be refitted andtensioned.7 The following sub-Sections describe settingthe engine to TDC on cylinder No 1.

Setting engine to TDC oncylinder No 1 - timing be/t fitted8 Before starting work, disconnect the batterynegative cable to disable the fuel ignition andignition system and to remove the risk ofelectrical short circuits. Prevent any vehiclemovement by putting the transmission inneutral, applying the parking brake andchocking the rear wheels.9 On the distributor cap, note the position ofthe No 1 cylinder HT terminal. On somemodels, the manufacturer provides a marking

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A.3

in the form of a small cut-out , however if theterminal is not marked, follow the HT leadfrom the No 1 cylinder spark plug back to thedistributor cap (No 1 cylinder is at the timingbelt end of the engine) and using chalk or apen (not a pencil, as the graphite will conductelectricity), place a mark on the distributorbody directly under the terminal.10 Remove the distributor cap, as describedin Chapter 5B11 Disconnect the HT leads from the sparkplugs, noting their order of connection.12 To bring any piston up to TDC, it will benecessary to rotate the crankshaft manually.This can be done by using a wrench andsocket on the bolt that retains the crankshaftpulley (refer to the following sub-Section formore detail).13 Rotate the crankshaft in its normaldirection of rotation until the distributor rotorarm electrode begins to approach the No 1terminal marking made on the distributor

Remove all four spark plugs;the lack of cylindercompression will make theengine easier to turn; refer

to Chapter 1 for details.

14 Carry out the following operations:

a) Refer to Chapter 4A or B (as applicable)and remove the air cleaner assembly, toimprove access.

b) Refer to Chapter 1 and remove theauxiliary drivebelt.

15 Prise open the clips and lift off the uppersection of the outer timing belt cover toexpose the timing belt sprockets beneath.Where applicable, remove the dipstick tubeand engine earth lead, if they are secured tothe timing belt cover.16 Identify the timing marks on both thecamshaft sprocket and the inner section ofthe timing belt cover. Continue turning thecrankshaft clockwise until the these marks areexactly aligned with each other. At this point,identify the timing mark on the crankshaftpulley and check that it is aligned with the ‘0’marking on the lower section of the timing beltcover (see illustration). Note: On engine

2.16 Camshaft sprocket (A) andcrankshaft pulley (B) timing marks

code PY, the ‘0’ marking stamped on theedge of the crankshaft pulley must be alignedwith the pointer on the inner timing be/t cover.17 Check that the distributor rotor armelectrode is now aligned with the No 1terminal mark on the distributor body. If itproves impossible to align the rotor arm withthe No 1 terminal whilst maintaining thealignment of the camshaft timing marks, referto Chapter 5B and check that the distributorhas been fitted correctly. Note: The basicignition advance setting may mean that thecentre of the rotor arm electrode does not lineup exactly with the No 1 terminal marking18 When all the above steps have beencompleted successfully, the engine will be setto TDC on cylinder No 1.Caution: If the timing belt is to beremoved, ensure that the crankshaft,camshaft and intermediate shaftalignment is preserved by preventing thesprockets from rotating with respect toeach other.

Setting engine to TDC on No 1cylinder - timing belt removed19 This procedure has been written with theassumption that the timing belt has beenremoved and that the alignment between thecamshaft and crankshaft has been lost, forexample following engine removal andoverhaul.20 On all the engines covered in this manual,it is possible for damage to be caused by thepiston crowns striking the valve heads, if thecamshaft is rotated with the timing beltremoved and the crankshaft set to TDC. Forthis reason, the TDC setting procedure mustbe carried out in a particular order, asdescribed in the following paragraphs.21 Before the cylinder head is refitted, use awrench and socket on the crankshaft pulleycentre bolt to turn the crankshaft in its normaldirection of rotation, until all four pistons arepositioned halfway down their bores, withpiston No 1 on its upstroke -i.e. 90° beforeTDC.22 With the cylinder head and camshaftsprocket now fitted, identify the timing markson both the camshaft sprocket and the innersection of the timing belt cover (refer toillustration 2.16).23 Turn the camshaft sprocket in its normaldirection of rotation until the timing marks onthe sprocket and timing belt inner cover areexactly aligned. Keep the camshaft in thisposition and prevent it from moving.24 Temporarily refit the crankshaft auxiliarybelt pulley, then identify the timing marks onthe edge of pulley and the timing belt cover.Using a socket and wrench on the crankshaftsprocket retaining bolt, turn the crankshaftthrough 90° (quarter of a turn) in its normaldirection of rotation, to bring the timing marksinto alignment (refer to illustration 2.16)25 Check that the distributor rotor armelectrode is now pointing roughly at the No1cylinder terminal marking on the distributor

body. If this is not the case, refer to Chapter5B and check that the distributor has beenfitted correctly. Note: The basic ignitionadvance setting may mean that the centre ofthe rotor arm electrode does not line upexactly with the No 1 terminal marking.26 When all the above steps have beencompleted successfully, the engine will be setat TDC on cylinder No 1. The timing belt cannow be fitted as described in Section 4.Caution: Until the timing belt is fitted,ensure that the crankshaft and camshaftalignment is preserved by preventing thesprockets from rotating with respect toeach other.

1 When engine performance is down, or ifmisfiring occurs which cannot be attributed tothe ignition or fuel systems, a compressiontest can provide diagnostic clues as to theengine’s condition. If the test is performedregularly, it can give warning of trouble beforeany other symptoms become apparent.2 The engine must be fully warmed-up tonormal operating temperature, the batterymust be fully charged, and all the spark plugsmust be removed (refer to Chapter 1). The aidof an assistant will also be required.3 Disable the ignition s y s t e m b ydisconnecting the ignition HT coil lead fromthe distributor cap and earthing it on thecylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similarwire to make a good connection.4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1cylinder spark plug hole - the type of testerwhich screws into the plug thread ispreferable.5 Have an assistant hold the throttle wideopen, then crank the engine on the startermotor; after one or two revolutions, thecompression pressure should build up to amaximum figure, and then stabilise. Recordthe highest reading obtained.6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,recording the pressure in each. Keep thethrottle wide open.7 All cylinders should produce very similarpressures; a difference of more than 2 barsbetween any two cylinders indicates a fault.Note that the compression should build upquickly in a healthy engine; low compressionon the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes,indicates worn piston rings. A lowcompression reading on the first stroke, whichdoes not build up during successive strokes,indicates leaking valves or a blown headgasket (a cracked head could also be thecause). Deposits on the undersides of thevalve heads can also cause low compression.8 Refer to the Specifications section of thisChapter and compare the recordedcompression figures with those stated by the

2A.4 Engine in-car repair procedures

manufacturer. Note the lower compressionratio of the supercharged G40 model (enginecode PY).9 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carryout the following test to isolate the cause.Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into thatcylinder through its spark plug hole, andrepeat the test.10 If the addition of oil temporarily improvesthe compression pressure, this indicates thatbore or piston wear is responsible for thepressure loss. No improvement suggests thatleaking or burnt valves, or a blown headgasket, may be to blame.11 A low reading from two adjacent cylindersis almost certainly due to the head gaskethaving blown between them: the presence ofcoolant in the engine oil will confirm this.12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lowerthan the others and the engine has a slightlyrough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be thecause.13 If the compression reading is unusuallyhigh, the combustion chambers are probablycoated with carbon deposits. If this is thecase, the cylinder head should be removedand decarbonised.14 On completion of the test, refit the sparkplugs and restore the ignition system.

General information1 The primary function of the toothed timingbelt is to drive the camshaft(s), but it is alsoused to drive the coolant pump. Should thebelt slip or break in service, the valve timing willbe disturbed and piston to valve contact mayoccur, resulting in serious engine damage.2 For this reason, it is important that thetiming belt is tensioned correctly andinspected regularly for signs of wear ordeterioration.

Removal3 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.4 With reference to Section 2, remove thetiming belt outer cover and set the engine toTDC on cylinder No1 .5 If the timing belt is relatively new and is tobe refitted later, check to see if it hasmanufacturers markings to indicate thecorrect direction of rotation. If none arepresent, make your own using a dab of paintor typists correction fluid.Caution: If the belt is refitted differently,accelerated wear leading to prematurefailure may occur.6 With reference to Chapter 3, loosen thewater pump retaining bolts, then turn thepump body clockwise to relieve the tensionfrom the timing belt. Slide the timing belt fromthe camshaft sprocket (see illustration).

4.6 Releasing the timing belt from thecamshaft sprocket

7 Using an Allen bit, unbolt the auxiliary beltpulley from the crankshaft sprocket. Removethe screws, lift off the timing belt lower cover,then remove the timing belt.

Inspection8 Examine the be l t f o r ev idence o fcontamination by coolant or lubricant. If this isthe case, ident i fy the source of thecontamination before progressing any further.Check the belt for signs of wear or damage,particularly around the leading edges of thebelt teeth. Renew the belt if its condition is indoubt; the cost of belt renewal is negligiblecompared with potential cost of the enginerepairs, should the belt fail in service.Similarly, if the belt is known to have coveredmore than 60,000 miles, it is prudent to renewit regardless of condition, as a precautionarymeasure.9 If the timing belt is not going to be refittedfor some time, it is a wise precaution to hanga warning label on the vehicles’ steeringwheel, to prevent others from attempting tostart the vehicle.

Refitting10 Loop the timing belt under the crankshaftsprocket loosely, observing the direction ofrotation markings.1 1 Bolt the lower timing belt cover inposition, then refit the auxiliary belt pulley tothe crankshaft sprocket and tighten theretaining bolts to the specified torque.12 Engage the timing belt teeth with thecrankshaft sprocket, then manoeuvre it intoposition over the coolant pump and camshaftsprockets - avoid bending the belt back onitself or twisting it excessively as you do this.Ensure that the ‘front run’ of the belt is taught- ie all the slack should be in the section of thebelt that passes over the coolant pump pulley.13 With the belt fitted, ensure that the timingmarks on the crankshaft pulley and camshaftsprocket are exactly aligned with theircorresponding reference marks on the timingbelt inner cover; refer to the illustrations inGeneral information for details.14 Insert a stout screwdriver between thelugs on the coolant pump casting, then usingthe screwdriver as a lever, turn the coolantpump so that the slack in the belt is taken up(see illustration).

4.14 Adjusting the timing belt tension byrotating the coolant pump

15 Test the belt tension by grasping itbetween the fingers at a point mid-waybetween the coolant pump and camshaftsprockets and twisting it; the belt tension iscorrect when it can just be twisted through90° (quarter of a turn) and no further (seeillustration).16 When the correct belt tension has beenachieved, tighten the coolant pump mountingbolts to the specified torque.17 Using a spanner or wrench and socket onthe crankshaft sprocket centre bolt, rotate thecrankshaft through two complete revolutionsand reset the engine to TDC on cylinder No1 ,with reference to Section 2. Re-check the belttension, adjusting it if necessary.18 Refit the timing belt cover and fasten theretaining clips securely.

Camshaft sprocket

Removal1 With reference to Section 2 remove thetiming belt cover, set the engine to TDC oncylinder No1 and remove the timing belt.2 The camshaft sprocket must be heldstat ionary whi ls t i ts reta in ing bol t is

4.15 Testing the timing belt tension

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A.5

To make a camshaft sprocket holdingtool, obtain two lengths of steel stripabout 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide orsimilar, one 600 mm long, the other2OO mm long (all dimensionsapproximate). Bolt the two stripstogether to form a forked end, leavingthe bolt slack so that the shorter stripcan pivot free/y. At the end of each‘prong” of the fork, secure a bolt with anut and a locknut, to act as thefulcrums; these will engage with thecut-outs in the sprocket, and shouldprotrude by about-30 mm

slackened; if access to the correct WV specialtool is not possible, a simple home-made toolusing basic materials may be fabricated (seeTool Tip).3 Using the home made tool, brace thecamshaft sprocket and slacken and removethe retaining bolt; recover the washer wherefitted.4 Slide the camshaft sprocket from the end ofthe camshaft. Where applicable, recover theWoodruff key from the keyway.5 With the sprocket removed, examine thecamshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. Ifnecessary, refer to Section 8 and renew it.6 Wipe the sprocket and camshaft matingsurfaces clean.

Refitting

7 Where applicable, fit the Woodruff key intothe keyway with the plain surface facingupwards. Offer up the sprocket to thecamshaft, engaging the slot in the sprocketwith the Woodruff key. On engines where a

key is not used, ensure that the lug in thesprocket hub engages with the recess in theend of the camshaft.8 Insert the camshaft sprocket bolt andtighten it to the specified torque - hold thesprocket still using the method described inthe Removal Section.9 Working from Section 2, check that theengine is still set to TDC on cylinder No 1,then refit and tension the timing belt, asdescribed in Section 4. Refit the timing beltcover and fasten the retaining clips securely.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal10 With reference to Section 2, remove thetiming belt cover, set the engine to TDC oncylinder No1 and remove the timing belt.11 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove thestarter motor. Hold the crankshaft stationaryusing a lever inserted between the teeth of thestarter ring gear.12 Slacken the bolt and remove the sprocket,recover ing the Woodruf f key, whereapplicable. If the sprocket is tight, carefullylever it from the end of the crankshaft using aprybar. Note: Discard the sprocket retainingbolt - a new one must be used on reassembly.

Refitting

13 Fit the Woodruff key in the crankshaft andtap the sprocket into position. On engineswhere a Woodruff key is not used, offer up thesprocket to the crankshaft, engaging the lugon the inside of the sprocket with the recessin the end of the crankshaft.14 Insert a new sprocket retaining bolt andtighten it to the specified torque - hold thecrankshaft stationary using a lever in thestarter ring gear, as described in the Removalsub-Section.15 Working from Section 2, check that theengine is still set to TDC on cylinder No 1,then refit and tension the timing belt, asdescribed in Section 4. Refit the timing beltcover and fasten the retaining clips securely.

Coolant pump timing beltsprocket16 The coolant pump sprocket is an integralpart of the coolant pump assembly andcannot be renewed as a separate item.

1 Disable the ignition system by unpluggingthe multiway wiring connector from thedistributor; refer to Chapter 5B for details.2 On models with single-point fuel injection,refer to Chapter 4A and remove the air cleanerassembly from the throttle body, to improveaccess.3 Slacken the clips and disconnect thebreather hoses from the camshaft cover (twohoses on G40 models). If crimp type clips arefitted, these must be removed using cuttersand hence cannot be re-used.4 Remove the protective caps, then slackenand withdraw the screws and recover therubber seal and washers (see illustration).Lift off the camshaft cover.5 Remove the oil baffle plate (seeillustration), noting its orientation, then lift thecamshaft cover gasket from the top of thecylinder head and inspect it for signs ofdeterioration or damage. If its condition is indoubt, discard it.6 If the gasket has been leaking, inspect themating surface of the camshaft covercarefully, as warpage due to over-tighten maycause it to leak.7 Ensure the mating surfaces of the cylinderhead and the camshaft cover are completelyclean, then lay a new gasket in position on thecylinder head, ensuring the lugs at the edge ofthe gasket fit securely over the dowelsprotruding from the cylinder head (seeillustration). Press the ends of the gasket intothe recesses in the camshaft bearing caps.8 Fit the oil baffle plate into position, thenlower the camshaft cover onto the gasket.9 Insert the cover retaining screws with therubber seals and washers and tighten them tothe specified torque. Fit the protective capsover the heads of the screws.10 Reconnect the breather hoses to the portson the camshaft cover. Where crimp typeclips were originally fitted, fit new worm driveclips in their place.11 On single point injected models, refer toChapter 4A and refit the air cleaner assembly.

6.4 Camshaft cover screws (arrowed) 6.5 Showing oil baffle plate over camshaft 6.7 Camshaft cover gasket dowels(arrowed)

2A.6 Engine in-car repair procedures

12 Restore the ignition sys tem byreconnecting the distributor multiway wiring

plug.

1 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition from the terminal.2 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliarydr ivebel t (3 With reference to Sections 2 and 4 of thisChapter, remove the auxiliary belt pulley andtiming belt cover, then set the engine to TDCon cylinder No 1 and remove the timing beltand camshaft sprocket.4 Note that the inner timing belt cover sharesmounting bolts with the coolant pump - referto Chapter 3 and remove the coolant pump.After removing the retaining screws, lift theinner timing belt cover away from the engineblock - this will expose the camshaft oil seal.5 Drill two small holes into the existing oilseal, diagonally opposite each other. Threadtwo self tapping screws into the holes andusing two pairs of pliers, pull on the heads ofthe screws to extract oil seal. Take great careto avoid drilling through into the seal housingor camshaft sealing surface.6 Clean out the seal housing and sealingsurface of the camshaft by wiping it with alint-free cloth - avoid using solvents that mayenter the cylinder head and affect componentlubrication. Remove any swarf or burrs thatmay cause the seal to leak.

7 Lubricate the lip of the new oil seal withclean engine oil and push it over the camshaftuntil it is positioned above its housing.8 Using a hammer and a socket of suitablediameter, drive the seal squarely into itshousing. Note: Select a socket that beats onlyon the hard outer surface of the seal, not theinner lip which can easily be damaged.9 With reference to Sections 2 and 4 of thisChapter, refit the inner timing belt cover,timing sprockets, then refit and tension thetiming belt. On completion, refit the timing beltouter cover.10 With reference to Chapter 1, refit andtension the auxiliary drivebelt(

Crankshaft front oil seal1 Remove the crankshaf t t iming bel tsprocket, with reference to Section 5.2 If available use VW tool 2085 to remove theoil seal from the oil pump. Alternatively, drilltwo small holes into the existing oil seal,diagonally opposite each other. Thread twoself tapping screws into the holes and usingtwo pairs of pliers, pull on the heads of thescrews to extract oil seal. Take great care toavoid drilling through into the seal housing orcrankshaft sealing surface.3 Clean out the seal housing and sealingsurface of the crankshaft by wiping it with alint-free cloth - avoid using solvents that may

8.13a Withdraw the rear oil seal housingfrom the dowels on the cylinder block. . .

8.13b . . . and recover the gasket

8.14 Removing the seal from its housing 6.16 Driving the new oil sealinto its housing

enter the oil pump and affect componentlubrication. Remove any swarf or burrs thatmay cause the seal to leak.4 Lubricate the lip of the new oil seal withclean engine oil and push it over the crankshaftuntil it is positioned above its housing.5 Using a hammer and a socket of suitablediameter, drive the seal squarely into itshousing. Note: Select a socket that bears onlyon the hard outer surface of the seal, not theinner lip which can easily be damaged.6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket with referenceto Section 5.

Crankshaft rear oil seal7 Remove the flywheel (see Section 11).

Method 18 Drill two diagonally opposite holes in the oilseal, insert two self-tapping screws, and pullout the seal with grips.9 Clean out the seal housing and sealingsurface of the crankshaft by wiping it with alint-free cloth - avoid using solvents that mayenter the crankcase and affect componentlubrication. Remove any swarf or burrs thatmay cause the seal to leak.10 Using the plastic fitting tool supplied withthe new oil seal, tap the seal into the housingusing a suitable metal tube. Note: Do notlubricate the seal to ease fitting - it is suppliedwith a friction-reducing coating.11 Refit the flywheel (see Section 11).

Method 212 Remove the sump (see Section 13).13 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the sealhousing from the dowels on the cylinderblock. Remove the gasket (see illustrations).14 Support the housing on blocks of woodand drive out the oil seal (see illustration)15 Clean out the seal housing by wiping itwith a lint-free cloth - avoid using solventsthat may enter the crankcase and affectcomponent lubrication. Remove any swarf orburrs that may cause the seal to leak.16 Using the plastic fitting tool supplied withthe new oil seal, tap the seal squarely into thehousing us ing a b lock of wood (seeillustration). Note: Do not lubricate the seal toease fitting - it is supplied with a friction-reducing coating.17 Clean the mating faces then refit thehousing, together with a new gasket, andtighten the bolts evenly in diagonal sequenceto the specified torque.18 Refit the sump and flywheel as describedin Sections 13 and 11 respectively.

Removal1 Select a solid, level surface to park thevehicle upon. Give yourself enough space tomove around it easily.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A.7

2 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the bonnetfrom its hinges - this will give extra workingspace and clearance when lifting off the head.3 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal. Note: If thevehicle has a security coded radio, check thatyou have a copy of the code number beforedisconnecting the battery cable; refer toChapter 12 for de tails.4 With reference to Chapter 1, carry out thefollowing :

a) Drain the engine oil.b) Drain the cooling system,

5 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliarydrivebelt(6 With reference to Section 2 set the engineto TDC on cylinder No 1.7 With re fe rence t o C h a p t e r 3 ,slacken/remove the clips and disconnect allcoolant hoses from the ports on the cylinderhead and thermostat housing.6 Where applicable, refer to Chapter 4C andunplug the Lambda sensor cabling from themain harness at the multiway connector.9 With reference to Chapter 5B and Chapter 1,carry out the following:

a) Remove the HT leads from the sparkplugs and the distributor.

b) Remove the distributor from the cylinderhead.

10 On multi-point fuel-injected models, referto Chapter 4B and remove the throttle body,the fuel rail and the fuel injectors.11 On single point fuel-injected models,with reference to Chapter 4A, remove theair cleaner and throttle body. Disconnectthe manifold pre-heater cabling at theconnector.12 With reference to Sections 6, 4 and 5 ,carry out the following:

a) Remove the camshaft cover.b) Remove the timing be/t outer covers, then

relieve the tension from the timing beltand disengage it from the camshaftsprocket.

c) Remove the camshaft sprocket.

13 Slacken and withdraw the retainingscrews and lift off the inner timing belt cover.Note that the coolant pump securing boltsdouble up as fixings for inner timing belt cover- refer to Chapter 3 and remove the coolantpump from the cylinder block,14 With reference to Chapter 4A or B asapplicable, unplug the wiring harness from thecoolant temperature sensor at the connector.15 Refer to Chapter 4C and remove the boltsseparate the exhaust down pipe from theexhaust manifold flange.16 Where applicable, detach the warm airinlet hose from the exhaust manifold heatshield.17 Slacken and remove the bolt securing theengine oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head.16 Following the sequence shown in theaccompanying illustration IN REVERSE,progressively slacken the cylinder head bolts,

9.18 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENINGsequence

by half a turn at a time, until all bolts can beunscrewed by hand (see illustration).19 Check that nothing remains connected tothe cylinder head, then lift the head away fromthe cylinder block; seek assistance if possible,as it is a heavy assembly, especially if it isbeing removed complete with the manifolds. Ifthe head sticks, grasp either manifold androck the head back and forth lightly, until itbecomes free. Do not lever between thecylinder head and block, as the matingsurfaces may be damaged.26 Remove the gasket from the top of theblock, noting the position of the locatingdowels. If the dowels are a loose fit, removethem and store them with the head for safe-keeping. The gasket cannot be re-used, butdo not discard it at this point - it may beneeded for identification purposes, whenpurchasing a new gasket21 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled foroverhaul refer to Chapter 2B.

Manifold separation22 Inlet manifold removal and refitting isdescribed in Chapter 4A or B as applicable.23 Progressively slacken and remove thein let and exhaust manifold retainingnuts/bolts. Lift the manifolds away from thecylinder head and recover the gaskets.24 Ensure that the mating surfaces arecompletely clean, then refit the manifolds,using new gaskets. Tighten the retaining nutsto the specified torque (see illustrations).

Preparation for refitting25 The mating faces of the cylinder head andcylinder block/crankcase must be perfectlyclean before refitting the head. Use a hardplastic or wood scraper to remove all traces ofold gasket and carbon; also clean the piston

crowns. Take particular care during thecleaning operations, as aluminium alloy iseasily damaged. Also, make sure that thecarbon is not allowed to enter the oil and waterpassages - this is particularly important for thelubrication system, as carbon could block theoil supply to the engine’s components. Usingadhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oiland bolt holes in the cylinder block/crankcase.26 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinderblock/crankcase and the cylinder head fornicks, deep scratches and other damage. Ifslight, they may be removed carefully withabrasive paper, but if excessive, machiningmay be the only alternative to renewal.27 If warpage of the cylinder head gasketsurface is suspected, use a straight-edge tocheck it for distortion. Refer to Part B of thisChapter if necessary.26 Check the condition of the cylinder headbolts, and particularly their threads, wheneverthey are removed. Wash the bolts in suitablesolvent, and wipe them dry. Check each forany sign of visible wear or damage, renewingany bolt if necessary. Measure the length ofeach bolt, to check for stretching (althoughthis is not a conclusive test, if all bolts havestretched by the same amount). Volkswagendo not actually specify that the bolts must berenewed, however, it is strongly recommendedthat the bolts should be renewed as acomplete set whenever they are disturbed.29 On all the engines covered in thisChapter, it is possible for damage to becaused by the piston crowns striking the valve 2 A

heads, if the camshaft is rotated with thetiming belt removed and the crankshaft set toTDC. For this reason, the crankshaft must beset to a position other than TDC on cylinderNo 1, before the cylinder head is refitted: usea wrench and socket on the crankshaft pulleycentre bolt to turn the crankshaft in its normaldirection of rotation, until all four pistons arepositioned halfway down their bores, withpiston No 1 on its upstroke -i.e. 90° beforeTDC.

Refitting30 Lay a new head gasket on the cylinderblock, engaging it with the locating dowels.Ensure that the manufacturers “TOP” and partnumber ma rk i ngs a re f ace up ( seeillustrations).

9.24a Fitting new exhaust. . . 9.24b . . . and inlet manifold gaskets

2A.8 Engine in-car repair procedures

9.3Oa Lay a new head gasket on thecylinder block, engaging it with the

locating dowels

31 With the help of an assistant, place thecylinder head and manifolds centrally on thecylinder block, ensuring that the locatingdowels engage with the recesses in thecylinder head. Check that the head gasket iscorrectly seated before allowing the fullweight of the cylinder head to rest upon it.32 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,and to the underside of the heads, of thecylinder head bolts; use a good-quality high-melting point grease.33 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevanthole (do not drop them in) and screw in, byhand only, until finger-tight.34 Work ing progress ive ly and in thesequence shown, tighten the cylinder headbolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using atorque wrench and suitable socket (refer toillustration 9.18). Repeat the exercise in thesame sequence for the Stage 2 torque setting.35 Once all the bolts have been tightened totheir Stage 2 settings, working again in thegiven sequence, angle-tighten the boltsthrough the specified Stage 3 angle, using asocket and extension bar. It is recommendedthat an angle-measuring gauge is used duringthis stage of the tightening, to ensureaccuracy. If a gauge is not available, use whitepaint to make alignment marks between thebol t head and cyl inder head pr ior totightening; the marks can then be used tocheck that the bolt has been rotated throughthe correct angle during tightening. Repeatthe exercise for the Stage 4 setting.36 Refit the coolant pump with reference toChapter 3.37 Refit the timing belt inner cover, tighteningthe retaining screws securely. Refer toSection 5 and refit the camshaft sprocket.38 Refer to Section 2 and follow theprocedure for setting the engine to TDC onNo 1 cylinder with the timing belt removed. Oncompletion, refer to Section 4 and refit thecamshaft timing belt.39 The remainder of refitting is a reversal ofthe removal procedure, as follows:

a) Bolt the engine dipstick tube bracket tothe timing belt cover, where applicable.

b) Refer to Chapter 4C and reconnect theexhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold.

9.30b The gasket part numbershould face upwards

c) On multipoint fuel-injected systems, referto Chapter 4B and refit the fuel injectors,fuel rail and the throttle body.

d) On single point fuel-injected models, referto Chapter 4A and refit the throttle bodyand air box. Reconnect the in/et manifoldpre-heater wiring.

e) Refer to Chapter 5B and refit thedistributor and the ignition HT leads.

f) Refer to Section 6 and refit the camshaftcover.

g) Reconnect the radiator, expansion tankand heater coo/ant hoses, referring toChapter 3 for guidance. Reconnect thecoo/ant temperature sensor wiring.

h) Refer to Chapter 7 and refit the auxiliarydrivebelt(s)

i) Restore the battery connection.j) Refer to Chapter 11 and refit the bonnet.

40 On completion, refer to Chapter 1 andcarry out the following:

a) Refill the engine cooling system with thecorrect quantity of new coolant.

b) Refill the engine lubrication system withthe correct grade and quantity of oil.

3 Run the engine until it reaches its normaloperating temperature. Switch off the engine,then refer to Section 6 and remove thecamshaft cover.4 Rotate the camshaft by turning thecrankshaft with a socket and wrench, until thefirst cam lobe over cylinder No 1 is pointingupwards.5 Using a feeler blade, measure the clearancebetween the base of the cam lobe and the topof the tappet. If the clearance is greater than0.1 mm, then the tappet is defective and mustbe renewed.

10.6 Hydraulic tappet operation check

6 If the clearance is less than 0.1 mm, pressdown on the top of the tappet, until it is felt tocontact the top of the valve stem (seei l lustration). Use a wooden or plasticimplement that will not damage the surface ofthe tappet.7 If the tappet travels more than 0.1 mmbefore making contact, then it is defective andmust be renewed.8 Hydraulic tappet removal and refitting isdescribed as part of the cylinder headoverhaul sequence - see Chapter 2C fordetails.

A Warning: After fitting hydraulic

!tappets, wait a minimum of 30minutes before starting theengine to allow the tappets time

to settle, otherwise the increased strokemay cause the pistons to strike the valveheads.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.2 Carry out the following operations:

a) Support the engine and remove thetransmission as described in Chapter 7.

b) Remove the clutch assembly as describedin Chapter 6.

3 Mark the relationship between the flywheeland the end of the crankshaft with a dab ofpaint, to aid refitting later.4 Hold the flywheel stationary, by means of alever or angle iron engaged with the starterring gear (refer to Chapter 5A for details ofstarter motor removal).5 Unscrew the bolts progressively and lift theflywheel from the crankshaft.Caution: The flywheel is a heavy, bulkycomponent - enlist the help of an assistantif possible. Wear gloves to protect yourhands from the ring gear teeth. Discardthe flywheel bolts - new items must beused on refitting.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A.9

11.6a Coat the threads of the flywheelbolts with locking fluid . . .

Refitting6 Follow the removal procedure in reverse,noting the following points (see illustrations):

a) Use the marks made during removal toalign the flywheel with the crankshaft.

b) Use new shouldered bolts when refittingthe flywheel. Tighten them diagonally andprogressively to specified torque.

Inspection1 If improved access is required, raise thefront of the car and support it securely on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if theyare cracked, hardened or separated from themetal at any point: renew the mounting if anysuch damage or deterioration is evident.3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners aresecurely tightened; use a torque wrench tocheck if possible.4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar,check for wear in the mounting by carefullylevering against it to check for free play. Wherethis is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistantto move the engine/transmission back andforth, or from side to side, while you watch themounting. While some free play is to beexpected even from new components,excessive wear should be obvious. If excessivefree play is found, check first that the fastenersare correctly secured, then renew any worncomponents as described below.

Renewal5 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.

Front left hand engine mounting6 Position a trolley jack underneath theengine and position it that such that the jackhead is directly underneath the engine/bellhousing mating surface. Alternatively,position an engine lifting beam across theengine bay, forward of the suspension struttop mountings, and support the engine usingthe lifting eyes provided on the cylinder head.

11.6b . . . and tighten them to thespecified torque

7 Raise the jack/lifting beam jib until it justtakes the weight of the engine off the front lefthand engine mounting.8 Slacken and withdraw the engine mountingthrough-bolt.9 S lacken and w i t hd raw the eng inemounting-to-transmission bolts and removethe bracket.10 Press the engine mounting rubber blocksand bush out of the crossmember cup.11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Beforetightening the engine mounting through-bolts,lightly rock the engine and transmission backand forth to settle the mountings. Finally,tighten all mounting bolts to the specifiedtorque.

Right hand engine mounting12 Mount an engine lifting beam across theengine bay and attach the jib to the enginelifting eyes on the cylinder head. Alternatively,an engine hoist can be used. Raise thehoist/lifting beam jib to take the weight of theengine off the engine mounting.13 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove theauxiliary drivebelt( Refer to Chapter 5A andremove the alternator. On G40 models, referto Chapter 4B and remove the supercharger.14 Slacken and wi thdraw the enginemounting through-bolt.15 Unbolt the engine mounting bracket fromthe cylinder block.16 Unbolt the engine mounting block fromthe body and remove it from the engine bay.17 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Beforetightening the engine mounting through-bolts,lightly rock the engine and transmission backand forth to settle the mountings. Finally,tighten all mounting bolts to the specifiedtorque.

Rear engine/transmission mounting18 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.19 Position a trolley jack underneath theengine and position it that such that the jackhead is directly underneath the engine/bellhousing mating surface. Alternatively,position an engine lifting beam across theengine bay, forward of the suspension struttop mountings, and support the engine usingthe lifting eyes provided on the cylinder head.20 Raise the jack until it takes the weight of

12.23 Removing the rear enginemounting block

the engine off the rear engine/transmissionmounting.21 Working underneath the vehicle, slackenand withdraw the engine mounting through-bolt. Be sure that the jack/lifting beam istaking the weight of the engine beforeremoving the bolt completely.22 Unbolt the mounting bracket from the endof the transmission casing.23 Unbolt the engine mounting block fromthe body and remove it from the engine bay(see illustration).24 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Beforetightening the engine/transmission mountingthrough-bolts, lightly rock the engine andtransmission back and forth to settle themountings. Finally, tighten all mounting boltsto the specified torque.

2 A

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative cable, thencarry out the following operations:

a) Apply the handbrake, chock the rearwheels, then jack up the front of the carand support it on axle stands - refer to theReference Chapter for greater detail.

b) Refer to Chapter 8 and disconnect theright-hand side driveshaft (Chapter 7)

c) Refer to Chapter 4C and unbolt the exhaustdownpipe from the manifold flange.

d) Unclip the alternator wire from the sump.e) Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the engine

oil into a suitable container. Clean thedrain plug and washer and refit it,tightening it to the specified torque.

2 Unscrew the sump bolts, then break thejoint by striking the sump with the palm of yourhand. Lower the sump away from the engineand withdraw it from underneath the vehicle.Recover and discard the sump gasket.3 While the sump is removed, check the oilpump pick-up/strainer for signs of clogging ordisintegration. If necessary, remove the pumpas described in Section 14, and clean orrenew the strainer.

2A.10 Engine in-car repair procedures

Refitting4 Remove any remains of the old gasket fromthe sump and cylinder block - ensure thatboth mating surface are spotlessly clean. Ifthe gasket has been leaking, check the matingsurface of the sump for warpage that mayhave been caused by over-tightening of thebolts. Renew the sump if it is damaged - donot attempt to repair it.5 Apply a coating of suitable sealant to thesump and crankcase mating surfaces.6 Lay a new sump gasket in position on thesump mating surface, then offer up the sumpand refit the retaining bolts. Tighten the nutsand bolts evenly and progressively to thespecified torque.7 Refit the drive shaft, exhaust downpipe andalternator cabling.8 Refer to Chapter 1 and refill the engine withthe specified grade and quantity of oil.9 Restore the battery connection.

14

General information1 The oil pump and pickup are both mountedat the timing belt end of the crankcase. Driveis taken from the crankshaft via a chain andsprocket (see illustration).

Removal2 Refer to Section 13 and remove the sumpfrom the crankcase.3 With reference to Section 8, remove thefront (timing belt end) crankshaft oil seal andhousing.4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing theoil pump to the end of the crankcase.5 Remove the screws securing the oil pumppickup to the crankcase bracket.

14.1 Exploded view of the oil pump assembly

6 Disengage the pump sprocket from thedrive chain and remove the oil pump andpickup from the engine.

Inspection7 Remove the screws from the mating flangeand lift off the pickup tube. Recover the O-ring seal.8 Slacken and withdraw the screws, thenremove the oil pump cover.9 Clean the pump thoroughly and inspect thegear teeth for signs of damage or wear. Whereapplicable, check the condition of the oilpump drive chain; if the links appearexcessively worn or are particularly loose,renew the chain.10 Check the pump backlash by inserting afeeler blade between the meshed gear teeth:rotate the gears against each other slightly, togive the maximum clearance (see illustration).Compare the measurement with the limitquoted in Specifications.11 Check the pump axial clearance asfollows: lay an engineers straight edge acrossthe oil pump casing, then using a feeler blade,measure the clearance between the straightedge and the pump gears (see illustration).Compare the measurement with the limitquoted in Specifications.

14.10 Checking the oil pump gear backlash 14.11 Checking the oil pump gearaxial clearance

12 If either of the measurements is outside ofthe specified limit, this indicates that thepump is worn and must be renewed.

Refitting13 Refit the oil pump cover, then fit the screwsand tighten them to the specified torque.14 Reassemble the oil pickup to the oilpump, using a new O-ring seal. Tighten theretaining screws to the specified torque.15 Offer up the oil pump to the end of thecrankcase. Fit the drive chain over the oilpump sprocket, then engage it with thecrankshaft sprocket.16 Fit the pump mounting bolts and handtighten them.17 Tension the drive chain by applying fingerpressure to it at a point midway between thetwo sprockets (see illustration). Adjust theposition of the pump on its mountings untilthe tension is within the limit given in Specifi-cations. On completion tighten the mountingbolts to the specified torque.18 Fit and tighten the fixings for the pickuptube to crankcase bracket.19 With reference to Section 8, refit thecrankshaft oil seal housing, using a newgasket and oil seal.20 Refer to Section 13 and refit the sump.

14.17 Checking the oil pump drivechain tension

2B.1

Chapter 2 Part B:Engine removal and overhaul proceduresContentsCrankshaft - refitting and running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Crankshaft - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine and transmission removal - preparation and precautions . . . .1. .6

Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . .Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 2A

. .7Cylinder head - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and assembly . .

Main and big-end bearings - inspection and selection . . . . . . . . , . . .8. .4

Engine overhaul - preliminary information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Piston and connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end running

clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...12Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Engine - initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . .

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . 5.13

Engine and transmission - removal, separation and refitting . . . . . . . .2Pistons and piston rings - assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsEngine designation codesSee Chapter 2A

CrankshaftMain journal diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Crankpin journal diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Crankpin running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Connecting rodsEndfloat on crankpin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

PistonsDiameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Piston ringsEnd gap (15.0 mm from bottom of cylinder):

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Oil scraper ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clearance in groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder headDistortion (max) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Minimum height for machining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Minimum distance between tops of valve guides and

upper surface of cylinder head:Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CamshaftRun-out(max) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

53.96 to 53.97mm-0.25 mm - 0.5 mm, -0.75 mm41.96 to 41.97 mm-0.25 mm, -0.5 mm, -0.75 mm0.07 to 0.20 mm0.03 to 0.17 mm0.02 to 0.095 mm

0.05 to 0.40 mm

74.98575.235, 75.485, 75.735

0.30 to 1 .0 mm0.25 to 1 .0 mm0.02 to 0.15 mm

0.1 mm135.6 mm

36.1 mm35.8 mm

0.01 mm0.15 mm

2B.2 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

ValvesValve head diameter:

InletAAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 mmAll other engine codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 mmValve stem diameter:

Inlet:UptoJuly1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.965 mmF r o m A u g u s t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.970 mm

Exhaust:UptoJuly1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.945 mmF r o m A u g u s t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.050 mm

Valve deflection in guide (max):Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 .0 mm (0.040 in)Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm (0.051 in)

Lubrication systemOil pressure at 2000 rpm and temperature of 80°C (176°F) . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 barOil pressure switch:

Off pressure (0.3 bar switch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.45 barOil pump:

Gear teeth backlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 - 0.20 mmMaximum axial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mmDrivechaintension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 - 3.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ftTransmission bellhousing to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Engine and gearbox mountings:

M10bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33M8bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Camshaft bearing cap nuts:Stage1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Stage 2 (angle tighten) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + one quarter-turn (90°)

Crankshaft main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48Big end bearing caps nuts:

Stage1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Stage 2 (angle tighten) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + one quarter-turn (90”)

I Engine and transmissionremoval - preparation andprecautions

1 If you have decided that the engine mustbe removed for overhaul or major repair work,several preliminary steps should be taken.2 Locating a suitable place to work isextremely important. Adequate work space,along with storage space for the vehicle, willbe needed. If a workshop or garage is notavailable, at the very least a solid, level, cleanwork surface is required.3 If possible, clear some shelving close to thework area and use it to store the enginecomponents and ancillaries as they areremoved and dismantled. In this manner, thecomponents stand a better chance of stayingclean and undamaged during the overhaul.Laying out components in groups togetherwith their fixings bolts, screws etc will savetime and avoid confusion when the engine isrefitted.4 Clean the engine compartment andengine/transmission before beginning theremoval procedure; this will help visibility andhelp to keep tools clean.

5 The help of an assistant should beavailable; there are certain instances whenone person cannot safely perform all of theoperations required to remove the enginefrom the vehicle. Safety is of primaryimportance, considering the potential hazardsinvolved in this kind of operation. A secondperson should always be in attendance tooffer help in an emergency. If this is the firsttime you have removed an engine, advice andaid from someone more experienced wouldalso be beneficial.6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Beforestarting work, obtain (or arrange for the hireof) all of the tools and equipment you willneed. Access to the following items will allowthe task of removing and refitt ing theengine/transmission to be completed safelyand with relative ease: a heavy-duty trolleyjack - rated in excess of the combined weightof the engine and transmission, complete setsof spanners and sockets as described in thefront of this manual, wooden blocks, andplenty of rags and cleaning solvent formopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. Aselection of different sized plastic storage binswill also prove useful for keeping dismantledcomponents grouped together. If any of the

equipment must be hired, make sure that youarrange for it in advance, and perform all ofthe operations possible without it beforehand;this may save you time and money.7 Plan on the vehicle being out of use forquite a while, especially if you intend to carryout an engine overhaul. Read through thewhole of this Section and work out a strategybased on your own experience and the tools,time and workspace available to you. Some ofthe overhaul processes may have to carriedout by a VW dealer or an engineering works -these establishments often have busyschedules, so it would be prudent to consultthem before removing or dismantling theengine, to get an idea of the amount of timerequired to carry out the work.6 When removing the engine from theveh i c l e , be methodical about thedisconnection of external components.Labelling cables and hoses as they areremoved will greatly assist the refittingprocess.9 Always be extremely careful when liftingthe engine/transmission assembly from theengine bay. Serious injury can result fromcareless actions. If help is required, it is betterto wait until it is available rather than risk

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B.3

personal injury and/or damage to componentsby continuing alone. By planning ahead andtaking your time, a job of this nature, althoughmajor, can be completed successfully andwithout incident.10 On all models described in this manual,the engine and transmission are removedthrough the top of the engine bay - accessand clearance are improved by removing thebonnet from the vehicle.11 Note that the engine and transmissionshould ideally be removed with the vehiclestanding on all four roadwheels, howeveraccess to the driveshafts and exhaust systemdownpipe will be improved if the vehicle canbe temporarily raised onto axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).

Removal1 Select a solid, level surface to park thevehicle upon. Give yourself enough space tomove around it easily.2 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the bonnetfrom its hinges.3 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal. Note: If thevehicle has a security coded radio, check thatyou have a copy of the code number beforedisconnecting the battery cable; refer toChapter 12 for details.4 Refer to Chapter 1 and carry out thefollowing:

a) Drain the cooling system.b) If the engine is to be dismantled, drain the

engine oil.

5 Refer to Chapter 3 and carry out thefollowing:

a) Remove the auxiliary cooling fan and itscowling.

b) Remove the radiator.c) Loosen the clips and disconnect the

radiator top and bottom hoses, expansiontank hose and cabin heater hoses fromthe thermos tat housing.

6 With reference to Chapter 4C, unplug theLambda sensor cabling from the mainharness at the multiway connector (whereapplicable).7 Disconnect the ignition HT king lead fromthe centre terminal of the distributor cap andtie it back away from the engine.8 Refer to Chapter 9 and disconnect thebrake servo vacuum hose from the port on theinlet manifold.9 On vehicles fitted with an activatedcharcoal canister emission control system,refer to Chapter 4C and disconnect thevacuum hose from the port on the throttlebody. Make a careful note of the point ofconnection to ensure correct refitting.

Single point injection models10 With reference to Chapter 4A, carry outthe following operations:

a) Depressurise fuel systemb) Remove the exhaust manifold- to-air

cleaner and throttle body air box-to-aircleaner ducting from the engine bay.

c) Remove the air cleaner assembly from thetop of the throttle body; make a note ofthe vacuum hose connections to ensurecorrect refitting later.

d) Disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle spindle lever.

e) Disconnect the fuel supply and returnhoses from the throttle body - observe thesafety precautions detailed at thebeginning of Chapter 4A.

Multi point injection models11 With reference to Chapter 4B, carry outthe following operations:

a) Depressurise fuel system.b) Slacken the clips and remove the exhaust

manifold-to-air cleaner and throttle body-to-air flow meter ducting from the enginebay.

c) Disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle spindle lever.

d) Disconnect the fuel supply and returnhoses from the throttle body - observe thesafety precautions detailed at thebeginning of Chapter 4B.

e) G40 models: slacken the clips anddisconnect the supercharger-to-in tercooler and intercooler- to- thro ttlebody ducting.

Caution: On G40 models, whendismantling any part of the air inletsystem, take care to ensure that noforeign material can get into the G-chargerair inlet port; cover the opening with asheet of plastic, secured with an elasticband. When the engine is running, the G-charger compressor vanes rotate at veryhigh speeds could be severely damaged ifdebris has been allowed to enter.12 Refer to Chapter 5A and disconnect thewiring from the alternator, starter motor andsolenoid.13 With reference to Chapter 5B andChapter 4A or B as applicable, identify any

sections of the ignition and fuelling systemelectrical harness that remain connected tosensors and actuators on the engine anddisconnect them. Label each connectorcarefully to ensure correct refitting.14 Refer to Chapter 7 and carry out thefollowing:

a) At the top of the transmission casing,disconnect the wiring from thespeedometer drive transducer andreversing light switch.

b) Disconnect the gear selection mechanismfrom the transmission.

15 Refer to Chapter 6 and disconnect theclutch cable from the release mechanism atthe front of the transmission casing.16 Refer to Chapter 8 and separate thedriveshafts from the transmission differentialoutput shafts.17 With reference to Chapter 4C, unbolt theexhaust down pipe f rom the exhaustmanifold. Recover and discard the gasket.Unbolt the front exhaust mounting and lowerthe exhaust to the floor.18 Unbolt the engine and transmissionearthing straps from the bodywork (seeillustration).19 Attach the jib of an engine lifting hoist tothe lifting eyelets at the cylinder head. Raisethe jib until it just takes the weight of theengine and transmission.20 With reference to Chapter 2A, slacken andwithdraw the through-bolts from all threeengine mountings (see illustration).21 Carry out a final check to ensure thatnothing else remains connected to the engine,then slowly raise the hoist and manoeuvre theengine and transmission out through the topof the engine bay. Guide the auxiliary beltdrive pulleys past the inner wing to avoiddamaging the paintwork.

Separation22 Rest the engine and transmissionassembly on a firm, flat surface and usewooden -blocks as wedges to keep the unitsteady.23 The transmission is secured to the engineby a combination of machine screws andstuds, threaded into the cylinder block andbellhousing - the total number of fixingsdepends on the type of transmission and

2.18 Unbolting the engineearthing strap

2.20 Front engine mountingthrough-bolt

2B

2B.4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

2.24 Separating the engine andtransmission

vehicle specification. Note that some of thesefixings also serve as mountings for the rearengine mounting.24 Starting at the bottom, remove all thescrews and nuts then carefully draw thetransmission away from the engine, resting itsecurely on wooden blocks (see illustration).Collect the locating dowels if they are looseenough to be extracted.Caution: Take care to prevent thetransmission from tilting, until the inputshaft is fully disengaged from the clutchfriction plate.25 With reference to Chapter 6, remove theclutch release mechanism, pressure plate andfriction plate.

Refitting26 If the engine and transmission have notbeen separated, proceed from paragraph 29onwards.27 Smear a quantity of high-melting-pointgrease on the splines of the transmissioninput shaft. Do not use an excessive amountas there is the risk of contaminating the clutchf r ic t ion p la te. Carefu l ly o f fer up thetransmission to the cylinder block, guiding thedowels into the mounting holes in cylinderblock.28 Refit the bellhousing bolts and nuts, handtightening them to secure the transmission inposition. Note: Do not tighten them to forcethe engine and transmission together. Ensurethat the bellhousing and cylinder block matingfaces will butt together evenly withoutobstruction, before tightening the bolts andnuts to their specified torque.

All models29 With reference to Chapter 2A, refit therear engine mounting bracket and tighten theretaining bolts to the specified torque.30 Attach the jib of an engine hoist to thelifting eyelets on the cylinder head and raisethe engine and transmission from the ground.31 Wheel the hoist up to the front of thevehicle and with the help of an assistant,guide the engine and transmission in throughthe top of the engine bay. Tilt the assemblyslightly so that the transmission casing entersfirst, then guide the auxiliary belt drive pulleyspast the bodywork.

32 Align the engine mounting brackets withthe mounting points on the body - refer toChapter 2A for details. Insert the enginemounting through-bolts, tightening them byhand initially.33 Detach the engine hoist jib from the liftingeyelets.34 Settle the engine and transmissionassembly on its mountings by rocking itbackwards and forwards, then tighten themounting through-bolts to the specifiedtorque.35 Refer to Chapter 8 and reconnect thedriveshafts to the transmission.36 The remainder of the refitting sequence isthe direct reverse of the removal procedure,noting the following points:

a) Ensure that all sections of the wiringharness follow their original routing; usenew cable-ties to secure the harness inposition, keeping it away from sources ofheat and abrasion.

b) Refer to Chapter 7 and reconnect thegear shift mechanism to the transmission,then check the overall operation of thegear shift mechanism, adjusting it ifnecessary.

c) Refer to Chapter 6 and reconnect theclutch cable to the transmission, thencheck the operation of the automaticadjustment mechanism (whereapplicable).

d) Ensure that all hoses are correctly routedand are secured with the correct hoseclips, where applicable. If the hose clipsoriginally fitted were of the crimp variety,they cannot be used again; proprietaryworm drive clips must be fitted in theirplace, unless otherwise specified.

e) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

f) Refill the engine with appropriate gradesand quantities of oil, as detailed inChapter 1.

g) With reference to Chapter 4A or B asapplicable, reconnect the throttle cableand adjust it as necessary.

h) With reference to Chapter 5B, check andadjust the engine idle speed and whereapplicable, the ignition timing.

37 When the engine is stat-ted for the firsttime , check for air, coolant, lubricant andfuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If theengine has been overhauled, read thecautionary notes in Section 13 beforeattempting to start it.

1 It is much easier to dismantle and work onthe engine if it is mounted on a portableengine stand. These stands can often be hiredfrom a tool hire shop. Before the engine is

mounted on a stand, the flywheel should beremoved, so that the stand bolts can betightened into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase.2 If a stand is not available, it is possible todismantle the engine with it blocked up on asturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be verycareful not to tip or drop the engine whenworking without a stand.3 If you intend to obtain a reconditionedengine, all ancillaries must be removed first, tobe transferred to the replacement engine (justas they will if you are doing a complete engineoverhaul yourself). These components includethe following:

a) Alternator (including mounting brackets)and starter motor (Chapter 5A).

b) The ignition system and HT componentsincluding all sensors, distributor, HT leadsand spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5).

c) The fuel injection system components(Chapter 4 Parts A and B)

d) All electrical switches, actuators andsensors, and the engine wiring harness(Chapter 4 Parts A and B, Chapter 5B).

e) inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 2A).f) The engine oil level dipstick (Chapter 1)g) Engine mountings (Chapter 2A and B).h) Flywheel (Chapter 28)i) Clutch components (Chapter 6)

Note: When removing the externalcomponents from the engine, pay closeattention to details that may be helpful orimportant during refitting. Note the fittedposition of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,washers, bolts, and other small components.4 If you are obtaining a “short” engine (whichconsists of the engine cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons andconnecting rods, all fully assembled), then thecylinder head, sump and baffle plate, oilpump, timing belt (together with its tensionerand covers), auxiliary belt (together with itstensioner), coolant pump, thermostat housing,coolant outlet elbows, oil filter housing andwhere applicable oil cooler will also have to beremoved.5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, theengine can be dismantled in the order givenbelow:

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.b) Timing be/t, sprockets and tensioner.c) Cylinder head.d) Flywheel driveplate.e) Sump.f) Oil pump.g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.h) Crankshaft.

6 Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you haveall of the tools necessary. Refer to “Tools andworking facilities” in the Reference Section ofthis manual for further information.

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B.5

4.2 Remove the thermostat housingtogether with its O-ring (arrowed)

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder headswill be available from the original manufacturer,and from engine overhaul specialists. It shouldbe noted that some specialist tools arerequired for the dismantling and inspectionprocedures, and new components may not bereadily available. It may, therefore, be morepractical and economical for the homemechanic to purchase a reconditioned head,rather than to dismantle, inspect andrecondition the original head.

Dismantling1 Remove the cylinder head from the engineblock and separate the inlet and exhaustmanifolds from it, as described in Part A ofthis Chapter.2 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove thethermostat housing together with its O-ring(see illustration). Where applicable, unscrewthe coolant temperature sensor and oilpressure switch from the cylinder head.3 Refer to Chapter 2A and remove the timingbelt sprocket from camshaft.4 Remove the spark plugs (Chapter 1).5 Remove the distributor (Chapter 5B).6 It is important that groups of componentsare kept together when they are removed and,if they are still serviceable, refitted in the samegroups, If they are refitted randomly,accelerated wear leading to early failure willoccur. Stowing groups of components inplastic bags or storage bins will help to keepeverything in the right order - label themaccording to their fitted location, e.g. ‘No 1exhaust’, ‘No 2 inlet’ , etc (see illustration).(Note that No 1 cylinder is nearest the timingbelt end of the engine.)7 Check that the manufacturers identificationand orientation markings are visible oncamshaft bearing caps; if none can be found,make your own using a scriber or centrepunch.8 The camshaft bearing cap retaining nutsmust be removed progressively and insequence to avoid stressing the camshaft, asfollows.

4.6 Keep groups of components togetherin labelled boxes or bags

9 Slacken the nuts from bearing caps Nos 5, 1and 3 first, then at bearing caps 2 and 4,slacken the nuts alternately and diagonally halfa turn at a time until they can be removed byhand. Note: Camshaft bearing caps arenumbered 1 to 5 from the timing be/t end.10 Slide the oil seal from the timing sprocketend of the camshaft and discard it as a newitem must be used on reassembly.11 Carefully lift the camshaft from thecylinder head - do not allow it to tilt. Supportboth ends as it is removed so that the journalsand lobes are not damaged.12 Lift the hydraulic tappets from their boresand store them with the valve contact surfacefacing downwards, to prevent the oil fromdraining out. Make a note of the position ofeach tappet, as they must be fitted to thesame valves on reassembly - acceleratedwear leading to early failure will result if theyare interchanged.13 Turn the cylinder head over and rest it onone side. Using a valve spring compressor,compress each valve spring in turn, extractingthe split collets when the upper valve springseat has been pushed far enough down thevalve stem to free them. If the spring seatsticks, lightly tap the upper jaw of the springcompressor with a hammer to free it.14 Release the valve spring compressor andremove the upper spring seat, valve spring(s)and lower spring seat. Note: Depending onage and specification, engines may haveconcentric double valve springs, or singlevalve springs with no lower spring seat.15 Use a pair of long-nosed pliers to extractthe valve stem oil seal and withdraw the valveitself from the head gasket side of the cylinderhead. If the valve sticks in the guide, carefullydeburr the end face with fine abrasive paper.Repeat this process for the remaining valves.

Cleaning16 Using a suitable degreasing agent,remove all traces of oil deposits from thecylinder head, paying particular attention tothe journal bearings, hydraulic tappet bores,valve guides and oilways. Scrape off anytraces of old gasket from the mating surfaces,taking care not to score or gouge them. Ifusing emery paper, do not use a grade of lessthan 100. Turn the head over and using a

blunt blade, scrape any carbon deposits fromthe combustion chambers and ports.Caution: Do not erode the sealing surfaceof the valve seat. Finally wash the entirehead casting with a suitable solvent toremove the remaining debris.17 Clean the valve heads and stems using afine wire brush. If the valve is heavily coked,scrape off the majority of the deposits with ablunt blade first, then use the wire brush.Caution: Do not erode the sealing surfaceof the valve face.18 Thoroughly clean the remainder of thecomponents using solvent and allow them todry completely. Discard the oil seals, as newitems must be fitted when the cylinder head isreassembled.

Inspection

Cylinder head casting19 Examine the head casting closely toidentify any damage sustained or cracks thatmay have developed. Pay particular attentionto the areas around the mounting holes, valveseats and spark plug holes. If cracking isdiscovered between the valve seats, orbetween the valve seats and spark plugthreads Volkswagen state that the cylinderhead may be reused, provided the cracks areno larger than 0.5 mm wide or that no morethan the first spark plug thread is cracked.More serious damage will mean the renewalof the cylinder head casting.20 Moderately pitted and scorched valveseats can be repaired by lapping the valves induring reassembly, as described later in thisChapter. Badly worn or damaged valve seatsmay be restored by recutting ; this is a highlyspecialised operation involving precisionmachining and accurate angle measurementand as such should be entrusted to aprofessional cylinder head re-builder.21 Measure any distortion of the gasketedsurfaces using a straight edge and a set offeeler blades. Take one measurement longitu-dinally on both the inlet and exhaust manifoldmating surfaces. Take several measurementsacross the head gasket surface, to assess thelevel of d is tor t ion in a l l p lanes (seeillustration). Compare the measurements withthe figures in the Specifications. If the head is

4.21 Checking for cylinder head distortionusing a straight edge and a set of

feeler blades

2B.6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

4.22a Minimum cylinder head height (a)

distorted out of specification, it may bepossible to repair it by smoothing down anyhigh-spots on the surface with fine abrasivepaper.22 Minimum cylinder head heights(measured between the cylinder head gasketsurface and the cylinder head cover gasketsurface), where quoted by the manufacturer,are listed in Specifications. If the cylinder headis to be professionally machined, bear in mindthe following (see illustrations):

a) The minimum cylinder head heightdimension (where specified) must beadhered to.

b) The valve seats will need to be recut tosuit the new height of the cylinder head,otherwise valve to piston crown contactmay occur.

c) Before the valve seats can be recut,check that there is enough material left onthe cylinder head to allow repair; if toomuch material is removed, the valve stemmay protrude too far above the top of thevalve guide and this would prevent thehydraulic tappets from operatingcorrectly. Refer to a professional headrebuilder or machine shop for advice.Note: Depending on engine type, it maybe possible to obtain new valves withshorter valve stems - refer to your VWdealer for advice.

Camshaft23 The camshaft is identified by means ofmarkings stamped onto the side of the shaft,between No 1 cylinder inlet and exhaustlobes.24 Visually inspect the camshaft for evidenceof wear on the surfaces of the lobes andjournals. Normally their surfaces should besmooth and have a dull shine; look forscoring, erosion or pitting and areas thatappear highly polished - these are signs thatwear has begun to occur. Accelerated wearwill occur once the hardened exterior of thecamshaft has been damaged, so alwaysrenew worn items. Note: If these symptomsare visible on the tips of the camshaft lobes,check the corresponding hydraulic tappet, asit will probably be worn as well.25 Examine the distributor drive gear for

4.22b Minimum distance (a) between topof valve guides and upper surface of

cylinder head

signs of wear or damage. Slack in the drivecaused by worn gear teeth will affect ignitiontiming.26 If the machined surfaces of the camshaftappear discoloured or ‘blued’, it is likely that ithas been overheated at some point, probablydue to inadequate lubrication. This may havedistorted the shaft, so check the runout asfollows: rotate the camshaft between two V -blocks and using a DTI gauge, measure therunout at the centre journal Compare this withthe Specifications. If it exceeds this figure,camshaft renewal should be considered.27 To measure the camshaft endfloat,temporarily refit the camshaft to the cylinderhead, then fit the third bearing cap and tightenthe fixings to the specified first stage torquesetting - refer to Reassembly for details.Anchor a DTI gauge to the timing pulley end ofthe cylinder head and align the gauge probewith the camshaft axis. Push the camshaft toone end of the cylinder head as far as it willtravel, then rest the DTI gauge probe on theend of the camshaft and zero the gaugedisplay. Push the camshaft as far as it will goto the other end of the cylinder head andrecord the gauge reading. Verify the readingby pushing the camshaft back to its originalposition and checking that the gaugeindicates zero again. Note: The hydraulictappets must not be fitted to the cylinderwhilst this measurement is being taken.28 Check that the camshaf t endf loatmeasurement is within the limit listed in Spec-ifications. Wear outside of this limit is unlikelyto be confined to any one component, sorenewal of the camshaft, cylinder head andbearing caps must be considered; seek theadvice of a cylinder head rebuilding specialist.29 The difference between the outsidediameters of the camshaft bearing surfacesand the internal diameters formed by thebearing caps and the cylinder head must nowbe measured, this dimension is known as thecamshaft “running clearance”.30 The dimensions of the camshaft bearingjournals are not quoted by the manufacturer,so running clearance measurement by meansof a micrometer and a bore gauge or internalvernier calipers cannot be recommended inthis case.

31 Another (more accurate) method ofmeasuring the running clearance involves theuse of Plastigage. This is a soft, plasticmaterial supplied in thin “sticks” of about thesame diameter as a sewing needle. Lengths ofPlastigage are cut as required, laid on thecamshaft bearing journals and crushed as thebearing caps are temporarily fitted andtightened. The Plastigage spreads widthwaysas it is crushed; the running clearance canthen be determined by measuring theincrease in width using the card gaugesupplied with the Plastigage kit.32 The following paragraphs describe thismeasurement procedure step by step, butnote that a similar method is used to measurethe crankshaft running clearances; refer to theillustrations in Section 10 for further guidance.33 Ensure that the cylinder head, bearing capand camshaft bearing surfaces are completelyclean and dry. Lay the camshaft in position inthe cylinder head.34 Lay a length of Plastigage on top of eachof the camshaft bearing journals.35 Lubricate each bearing cap with a littlesilicone release agent, then place them inposition over the camshaft and tighten theretaining nuts down to the specified first stagetorque setting only - refer to Reassembly laterin this Section for guidance. Note: Do notrotate the camshaft whilst the bearing capsare in place, as the measurements will beaffected.36 Carefully remove the bearing caps again,lifting them vertically away from the camshaftto avoid disturbing the Plastigage. ThePlastigage should remain on the camshaftbearing surface, squashed into a uniformsausage shape. If it disintegrates as thebearing caps are removed, re-clean thecomponents and repeat the exercise, using alittle more release agent on the bearing cap.37 Hold the scale card supplied with the kitagainst each bearing journal and match thewidth of the crushed Plastigage with thegraduated markings on the card, use this todetermine the running clearances.38 Compare the camshaft running clearancemeasurements with those listed in the Specifi-cations; if any are outside the specifiedtolerance, the camshaft and cylinder headshould be renewed.39 On completion, remove the bearing capsand camshaft and clean of all remainingtraces of Plastigage and silicone releaseagent.

Valves and associated componentsNote: On all engines, the valve heads cannotbe re-cut (although they may be lapped in);new or exchange units must be obtained.40 Examine each valve closely for signs ofwear. Inspect the valve stems for wear ridges,scoring or variations in diameter; measuretheir diameters at several points along theirlengths with a micrometer (see illustration).

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B.7

4.40 Measure the diameters of the valvestems at several points along their lengths

using a micrometer

41 Check the overall length of each valve andcompare the measurements with the figure inthe Specifications.42 The valve heads should not be cracked,badly pitted or charred. Note that light pittingof the valve head can be rectified by lapping-in the valves during reassembly, as describedlater in this Section.43 Check that the valve stem end face is freefrom excessive pitting or indentation; thiswould be caused by defective hydraulictappets.44 Place the valves in a V - block and using aDTI gauge, measure the runout at the valvehead. A maximum figure is not quoted by themanufacturer, but the valve should berenewed if the runout appears excessive.45 Insert each valve into its respective guidein the cylinder head and set up a DTI gaugeagainst the edge of the valve head. With thevalve end face flush with the top of the valveguide , measure the maximum side to sidedeflection of the valve in its guide (seeillustration). If the measurement is out oftolerance, the valve and valve guide should berenewed as a pair. Note: Valve guides are aninterference fit in the cylinder head and theirremoval requires access to a hydraulic press.For this reason, it would be wise to entrust thejob to an engineering workshop or headrebuilding specialist.46 Using vernier callipers, measure the freelength of each of the valve springs. As amanufacturer’s figure is not quoted, the onlyway to check the length of the springs is bycomparison with a new component. Note thatvalve springs are usually renewed during amajor engine overhaul.47 Stand each spring on its end on a flatsurface, against an engineers square. Checkthe squareness of the spring visually; if itappears distorted, renew the spring.48 Measuring valve spring pre-load involvescompressing the valve by applying a specifiedweight and measuring the reduction in length.This may be a difficult operation to conduct inthe home workshop, so it would be wise toapproach your local garage or engineeringworkshop for assistance. Weakened valvesprings will at best, increase engine runningnoise and at worst, cause poor compression,so defective items should be renewed.

ReassemblyCaution: Unless all new components areto be used maintain groups when refittingvalve train components - do not mixcomponents between cylinders andensure that components are refitted intheir original positions.49 To achieve a gas tight seal between thevalves and their seats, it will be necessary togrind, or ‘lap’, the valves in. To complete thisprocess you wi l l need a quant i ty offine/coarse grinding paste and a grinding tool- this can either be of the dowel and rubbersucker type, or the automatic type which aredriven by a rotary power tool.50 Smear a small quantity of fine grindingpaste on the sealing face of the valve head.Turn the cylinder head over so that thecombustion chambers are facing upwardsand insert the valve into the correct guide.Attach the grinding tool to the valve head andusing a backward/forward rotary action, grindthe valve head into its seat. Periodically lift thevalve and rotate it to redistribute the grindingpaste (see illustration).51 Continue this process until the contactbetween valve and seat produces anunbroken, matt grey ring of uniform width, onboth faces. Repeat the operation for theremaining valves.52 If the valves and seats are so badly pittedthat coarse grinding paste must be used,check first that there is enough material left onboth components to make this operationworthwhile - if too little material is leftremaining, the valve stems may protrude too

far above their guides, impeding the correctoperation of the hydraulic tappets. Refer to amachine shop or cylinder head rebuildingspecialist for advice.53 Assuming the repair is feasible, work asdescribed in the previous paragraph but usethe coarse grinding paste initially, to achieve adull finish on the valve face and seat. Then,wash off coarse paste with solvent and repeatthe process using fine grinding paste to obtainthe correct finish.54 When all the valves have been ground in,remove all traces of grinding paste from thecylinder head and valves with solvent andallow them to dry completely.55 Turn the head over and place it on astand, or wooden blocks. Leave enoughroom underneath to allow the valves to beinserted.56 Working on one valve at a time, lubricatethe valve stem with clean engine oil and insertit into the guide. Fit one of the protectiveplastic sleeves supplied with the new valvestem oil seals over the valve end face - thiswill protect the oil seal whilst it is being fitted(see illustrations).57 Dip a new valve stem seal in clean engineoil and carefully push it over the valve andonto the top of the valve guide - take care notto damage the stem seal as it passes over thevalve end face. Use a suitable long reachsocket to press it firmly into position (seeillustration).58 Locate the valve spring(s) over the valvestem. Where a lower spring seat is fitted,ensure that the springs locate squarely on the

4.45 Measuring the deflectionof a valve in its guide

4.50 Grinding in a valve

4.56a Fitting a valveinto its guide

4.56b Fitting a protective plastic sleeveover the valve end face

2B.8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

into position using a long reach socket

4.59 Spring seat being fitted over the topsof the valve springs

4.61 Refitting the hydraulic tappets

stepped sur face of the sea t (seeillustrations). Note: Depending on age andspecification, engines may have eitherconcentric double valve springs, or singlevalve springs with no lower spring seat.59 Fit the upper seat over the top of thesprings, then u s i n g a valve springcompressor, compress the springs until theupper seat is pushed beyond the colletgrooves in the valve stem. Refit the splitcollet, using a dab of grease to hold the twohalves in the grooves (see illustration).Gradually release the spring compressor,checking that the collet remains correctlyseated as the spring extends. When correctlyseated, the upper seat should force the twohalves of the collet together and hold themsecurely in the grooves in the end of the valve.60 Repeat this process for the remaining setso f va l ve componen ts . To se t t l e t he

components after installation, strike the endof each valve stem lightly with a mallet, usingan interposed block of wood to protect thestem from damage. Check before progressingany further that the split collets remain firmlyheld in the end of the valve stem by the upperspring seat.61 Smear some clean engine oil onto thesides of the hydraulic tappets and fit them intoposition in their bores in the cylinder head.Push them down until they contact the valves,then lubricate the camshaft lobe contactsurfaces (see illustration).62 Lubricate the camshaft and cylinder headbearing journals with clean engine oil, thencarefully lower the camshaft into position onthe cylinder head. Support the ends of theshaft as it is inserted, to avoid damaging thelobes and journals (see illustration).63 Oil the upper surfaces of the camshaft

bearing journals, then fit the bearing caps inplace. Ensure that they are fitted the right wayaround and in the correct locations, then fitand tighten the retaining nuts, as follows:64 The bearing caps have their respectivecylinder numbers stamped onto them andhave an elongated lug on one side. Whencorrectly fitted, the numbers should bereadable from the exhaust side of the cylinderhead and the lugs should face the inlet side ofthe cylinder head (see illustration).65 Fit caps Nos 2 and 4 over the camshaftand tighten the retaining nuts alternately anddiagonally to the specified first stage torque(see illustration).66 Smear the cylinder head mating surfacesof caps Nos 1 and 5 with suitable sealant thenfit them, together with cap No 3, over thecamshaft and tighten the nuts to the specifiedfirst stage torque.

4.62 Lowering the camshaft into position 4.64 Camshaft bearing cap markings 4.65 Tightening the camshaftand orientation bearing cap nuts

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B.9

4.70 Refitting the oil pressure switch

67 Tighten all bearing caps to the secondstage torque, then fit the bolts to bearing capNo 5 and tighten them to the specified torque.68 With reference to Chapter 2A lubricate thelip of a new camshaft oil seal with cleanengine oil and locate it over the end of thecamshaft. Using a mallet and a long reachsocket of an appropriate diameter, drive theseal squarely into its housing until it bearsagainst the inner stop - do not attempt toforce it in any further.69 Refit the coolant outlet elbow, using anew gasket/O-ring as necessary. Tighten theretaining bolts securely.70 Refit the coolant sensor and oil pressureswitch, using new sealing washers asappropriate (see illustration).71 With reference to Chapter 2A, carry outthe following (see illustration):

a) Refit the timing belt sprocket to thecamshaft.

b) Refit the inlet and exhaust manifolds,complete with new gaskets.

72 Refer to Chapter 2A or B as applicablerefit the cylinder head to the cylinder block.

Removal1 Refer to Part A of this Chapter and removethe cylinder head, flywheel, sump and baffleplate, oil pump and pickup.2 Inspect the tops of the cylinder bores; anywear ridges at the point where the pistonsreach top dead centre must be removed;otherwise the pistons may be damaged whenthey are pushed out of their bores. This canbe achieved with a scraper or ridge reamer.3 Scribe the number of each piston on itscrown, to allow identification later; note thatNo 1 is at the timing belt end of the engine.4 Using a set of feeler blades, measure the big-end to crankpin web thrust clearance at eachconnecting rod and record the measurementsfor later reference (see illustration).5 Rotate the crankshaft until pistons No 1 and4 are at bottom dead centre. Unless they arealready identified, mark the big end bearing

4.71 Refitting the camshaft sprocketand bolt

caps and connect ing rods wi th the i rrespective piston numbers, using a centrepunch or a scribe (see illustration). Note theorientation of the bearing caps in relation tothe connecting rod; it may be difficult to seethe manufacturers markings at this stage, soscribe alignment arrows on them both toensure correct reassembly. Unbolt thebearing cap bolts/nuts, half a turn at a time,until they can be removed by hand. Recoverthe bottom shell bearing and tape it to the capfor safe keeping. Note that if the shellbearings are to be re-used, they must berefitted to the same connecting rod.6 On certain engines, the bearing cap boltswill remain in the connecting rod; in this casethe threads of the bolts should be paddedwith insulating tape, to prevent them fromscratching the crankpins when the pistons areremoved from their bores (see illustration).

7 Drive the pistons out of the top of theirbores by pushing on the underside of thepiston crown with a piece of dowel or ahammer hand le . As t he p i s t on andconnecting rod emerge, recover the top shellbearing and tape it to the connecting rod forsafekeeping.8 Turn the crankshaft through half a turn andworking as described above, remove No 2and 3 pistons and connecting rods (seeillustration) Remember to maintain thecomponents in their cylinder groups, whilstthey are in a dismantled state.9 Insert a small flat bladed screwdriver into theremoval slot and prise the gudgeon pin circlipsfrom each piston. Push out the gudgeon pinand separate the piston and connecting rod.Discard the circlips as new items must be fittedon reassembly. If the pin proves difficult toremove, heat the piston to 60°C with hot water- the resulting expansion will then allow the twocomponents to be separated.

Inspection10 Before an inspection of the pistons can becarried out, the existing piston rings must beremoved, using a removal/installation tool, oran old feeler blade if such a tool is notavailable. Always remove the upper pistonrings first, expanding them to clear the pistoncrown. The rings are very brittle and will snapif they are stretched too much - sharp edgesare produced when this happens, so protectyour eyes and hands. Discard the rings onremoval, as new items must be fitted when 2 Bthe engine is reassembled.

5.4 Measure the big-end to crankpin webthrust clearance at each connecting rod

5.5 Mark the big end bearing caps andconnecting rods with their respective

piston numbers

5.6 Pad the threads of the big end boltswith tape

2B.10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

5.18 Checking the piston ringside clearance

11 Use a section of old piston ring to scrapethe carbon deposits out of the ring grooves,taking care not to score or gouge the edges ofthe groove.12 Carefully scrape away all traces of carbonfrom the top of the piston. A hand-held wirebrush (or a piece of fine emery cloth) can beused, once the majority of the deposits havebeen scraped away. Be careful not to removeany metal from the piston, as it is relativelysoft. Note: Take care to preserve the pistonnumber markings that were made duringremoval.13 Once the deposits have been removed,clean the pistons and connecting rods withparaffin or a suitable solvent, and drythoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holesin the ring grooves are clear.14 Examine the piston for signs of terminalwear or damage. Some normal wear will beapparent, in the form of a vertical ‘grain’ onthe piston thrust surfaces and a slightlooseness of the top compression ring in itsgroove. Abnormal wear should be carefullyexamined, to assess whether the componentis still serviceable and what the cause of thewear might be.15 Scuffing or scoring of the piston skirt mayindicate that the engine has been overheating,through inadequate cooling, lubrication orabnormal combustion temperatures. Scorchmarks on the skirt indicate that blow-by hasoccurred, perhaps caused by worn bores orpiston rings. Burnt areas on the piston crownare usually an indication of pre-ignition,pinking or detonation. In extreme cases, thepiston crown may be melted by operatingunder these conditions. Corrosion pit marks inthe piston crown indicate that coolant hasseeped into the combustion chamber and/orthe crankcase. The faults causing thesesymptoms must be corrected before theengine is brought back into service, or thesame damage will recur.18 Check the pistons, connecting rods,gudgeon pins and bearing caps for cracks.Lay the connecting rods on a flat surface andlook along thelength to see if it appears bentor twisted. If you have doubts about their

5.20a Big end bearing cap and connectingrod markings

A identification (cylinder number) markingsB Orientation recesses

condi t ion, get them measured at anengineering workshop. Inspect the small endbush bearing for signs of wear or cracking.17 Using a micrometer, measure thediameter of all four pistons at a point 10 mmfrom the bottom of the skirt, at right angles tothe gudgeon p in ax i s . Compare t hemeasurements with those listed in the Specifi-cations. If the piston diameter is out of thetolerance band listed for its particular size,then it must be renewed. Note: If the cylinderblock was re-bored during a previousoverhaul, oversize pistons may have beenfitted. Record the measurements and usethem to check the piston clearances when thecylinder bores are measured, later in thisChapter.18 Hold a new piston ring in the appropriategroove and measure the side clearance usinga feeler blade (see illustration). Note that therings are of different widths, so use thecorrect ring for the groove. Compare themeasurements with those listed; if theclearances are outside of the tolerance band,then the piston must be renewed. Confirm thisby checking the width of the piston ring with amicrometer.19 Using internal/external vernier callipers,measure the connecting rod small end internaldiameter and the gudgeon pin externaldiameter. Subtract the gudgeon pin diameterfrom the small end diameter to obtain theclearance. If this measurement is outside itsspecification, then the piston and connectingrod bush will have to be resized and a newgudgeon pin installed. An engineeringworkshop will have the equipment needed toundertake a job of this nature.20 The orientation of the piston with respect tothe connecting rod must be correct when thetwo components are reassembled. The pistoncrown is marked with an arrow (which caneasily be obscured by carbon deposits); thismust point towards the timing belt end of theengine when the piston is installed in the bore.The connecting rod and its correspondingbearing cap both have recesses machined intothem close to their mating surfaces - theserecesses must both face in the same direction

5.20b Orientation arrow on piston crown(highlighted)

as the arrow on the piston crown (ie towards thetiming belt end of the engine) when correctlyinstalled (see illustrations). Reassemble thetwo components to satisfy this requirement.21 Lubricate the gudgeon pin and small endbush with clean engine oil. Slide the pin intothe piston, engaging the connecting rod smallend. Fit two new circlips to the piston at eitherend of the gudgeon pin, so that their openends are facing 180° away from the removalslot in the piston. Repeat this operation for theremaining pistons.

Removal1 Note: If no work is to be done on thepistons and connecting rods, then removal thecylinder head and pistons wil l not benecessary. Instead, the pistons need only bepushed far enough up the bores so that theyare positioned clear of the crankpins. The useof an engine stand is strongly recommended.2 With reference to Chapter 2A, carry out thefollowing:

a) Remove the crankshaft timing beltsprocket.

b) Remove the clutch components andflywheel.

c) Remove the sump, baffle plate, oil pumpand pickup.

d) Remove the front and rear crankshaft oilseals and their housings.

3 Unbolt the pistons and connecting rodsfrom the crankpins, as described in Section 5(refer to the Note above).4 Carry out a check of the crankshaft endfloat,as follows. Note: This can only beaccomplished when the crankshaft is stillinstalled in the cylinder block/crankcase, but isfree to move. Set up a DTI gauge so that theprobe is in line with the crankshaft axis and isin contact with a fixed point on end of thecrankshaft. Push the crankshaft along its axisto the end of its travel, and then zero the

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B.11

6.4 Checking the crankshaft endfloatusing a DTI gauge

6.5 Checking the crankshaft endfloatusing a feeler blade

6.6 Main bearing cap identificationmarkings

gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way,and record the endfloat indicated on the dial(see illustration). Compare the result with thefigure given in Specifications and establishwhether new thrustwashers are required.5 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler bladescan be used. First push the crankshaft fullytowards the flywheel end of the engine, thenuse a feeler blade to measure the gapbetween cylinder No 2 crankpin web and themain bearing thrustwasher (see illustration).Compare the results with the Specifications.6 Observe the manufacturers identificationmarks on the main bearing caps. The numberrelates to the position in the crankcase, ascounted from the timing belt end of the engine(see illustration).7 Loosen the main bearing cap bolts onequarter of a turn at a time, until they can beremoved by hand. Using a soft faced mallet,strike the caps lightly to free them from thecrankcase. Recover the lower main bearingshells, taping them to the cap for safekeeping. Mark them with indelible ink to aididentification, but do not score or scratchthem in any way.8 Carefully lift the crankshaft out, taking carenot to dislodge the upper main bearing shells.It would be wise to get an assistants help, asthe crankshaft is quite heavy. Set it down on aclean, level surface and chock it with woodenblocks to prevent it from rolling.9 Extract the upper main bearing shells fromthe crankcase and tape them to theirrespective bearing caps. Remove the twothrustwasher bearings from either side of No 3crank web.

6.13 Measuring the diametermain bearing journals

10 With the shell bearings removed, observethe recesses machined into the bearing capsand crankcase - these provide location for thelugs which protrude from the shell bearings andso prevent them from being fitted incorrectly.

Inspection11 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solventand allow it to dry. Flush the oil holesthoroughly, to ensure that are not blocked -use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush ifnecessary. Remove any sharp edges from theedge of the hole which may damage the newbearings when they are installed.12 Inspect the main bearing and crankpinjournals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking,scoring or pitting are evident then thecrankshaft should be reground by anengineering workshop, and refitted to theengine with undersize bearings.13 Use a micrometer to measure the diameterof each main bearing journal (see illustration).Taking a number of measurements on thesurface of each journal will reveal if it is wornunevenly. Differences in diameter measured at90° intervals indicate that the journal is out ofround. Differences in diameter measuredalong the length of the journal, indicate thatthe journal is tapered. Again, if wear isdetected, the crankshaft must be reground byan engineering workshop and refitted withundersize bearings (refer to Reassembly)14 Check the oil seal journals at either end ofthe crankshaft. If they appear excessivelyscored or damaged, they may cause the newseals to leak when the engine is reassembled.It may be possible to repair the journal; seek

the advice of an engineering workshop or yourVW dealer.15 Measure the crankshaft runout by settingup a DTI gauge on the centre main bearingand rotating the shaft in V - blocks. Themaximum deflection of the gauge will indicatethe runout. Take precautions to protect thebearing journals and oil seal mating surfacesfrom damage during this procedure. Amaximum runout figure is not quoted by themanufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mmas a rough guide. If the runout exceeds thisfigure, crankshaft renewal should beconsidered - consult your VW dealer or anengine rebuilding specialist for advice.16 Refer to Section 8 for details of main andbig-end bearing inspection.

Cleaning1 Remove all external components andelectrical switches/sensors from the block.For complete cleaning, the core plugs shouldideally be removed. Drill a small hole in theplugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into thehole. Extract the plugs by pulling on the screwwith a pair of grips, or by using a slidehammer (see illustration).2 Scrape all traces of gasket and sealant fromthe cylinder block/crankcase, taking care not 2Bto damage the sealing surfaces.3 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).The plugs are usually very tight - they mayhave to be drilled out, and the holes re-tapped. Use new plugs when the engine isreassembled.4 If the casting is very dirty, it should besteam-cleaned. After this, clean all oil holesand galleries one more time. Flush all internalpassages with water until the water runs clear.Dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of oil to allmating surfaces and cylinder bores, to preventrusting. If you have access to compressed air,use it to speed up the drying process, and toblow out all oil holes and galleries.

A Warning: Be sure to wear eye

!protection when usingcompressed air!

7.1 Using a slide hammerto remove a core plug

2B.12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

7.6 Clear out threaded holes using thecorrect size of tap

5 If the castings are not very dirty, you can doan adequate cleaning job with hot, soapywater and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time,and do a thorough job. Regardless of thecleaning method used, be sure to clean all oilholes and galleries very thoroughly, and to dryall components well. Protect the cylinderbores as described above, to prevent rusting.6 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensurethat fixings are tightened to the correcttorque during reassembly. To clean thethreads, run the correct-size tap into each ofthe holes to remove rust, corrosion, threadsealant or sludge, and to restore damagedthreads (see illustration). If possible, usecompressed air to clear the holes of debrisproduced by this operation. Note: Take extracare to exclude all cleaning liquid from blindtapped holes, as the casting may be crackedby hydraulic action if a bolt is tightened in ahole containing liquid.7 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil galleryplugs, and insert them into the holes in theblock. Tighten them securely.8 If the engine is not going to be reassembledimmediately, cover it with a large plastic bagto keep it clean; protect all mating surfacesand the cylinder bores as described above, toprevent rusting.

Inspection9 Visually check the casting for cracks andcorrosion. Look for stripped threads in thethreaded holes. If there has been any history ofinternal water leakage, it may be worthwhilehaving an engine overhaul specialist check thecylinder block/crankcase with professionalequipment. If defects are found, have themrepaired if possible, failing this the cylinderblock should be renewed.10 Check the cylinder bores for scuffing orscoring. Any evidence of this kind of damageshould be cross-checked with an inspectionof the pistons: see Section 5 of this Chapter. Ifthe damage is in its early stages, it may bepossible to repair the block by reboring it.Seek the advice of an engineering workshopbefore you progress.11 To allow an accurate assessment of thewear in the cylinder bores to be made, theirdiameter must be measured at a numberof points, as follows. Insert a bore gaugeinto cylinder bore No 1 and take three

measurements in line with the crankshaft axis;one at the top of the bore, roughly 10 mmbelow the bottom of the wear ridge, onehalfway down the bore and one at a pointroughly 10 mm the bottom of the bore. Note:Stand the cylinder block squarely on aworkbench during this procedure, inaccurateresults may be obtained if the measurementsare taken when the engine mounted on a stand.12 Rotate the bore gauge through 90°, sothat it is at right angles to the crankshaft axisand repeat the measurements detailed inparagraph 11 (see illustration). Record all sixmeasurements and compare them with thedata listed in the Specifications Section. If thedifference in diameter between any twocylinders exceeds the wear limit, or if any onecylinder exceeds its maximum bore diameter,then all four cylinders will have to be reboredand oversize pistons will have to be fitted.Note that the imbalances produced by notreboring all the cylinders together wouldrender the engine unusable.13 Use the piston diameter measurementsrecorded earlier (see Section 5) to calculatethe piston to cylinder clearances. Comparethese with the specified maximum anddetermine whether reboring and oversizepistons are required.14 Place the cylinder block on a level worksurface, crankcase downwards. Use a straightedge and a set of feeler blades to measure thedistortion of the cylinder head mating surfacein both planes, A maximum figure is notquoted by the manufacturer, but use thefigure of 0.05 mm as a rough guide. If themeasurement exceeds this figure, repair maybe possible by machining - consult yourdealer for advice.15 Before the engine can be reassembled, thecylinder bores must be honed. This processinvolves using an abrasive tool to produce afine, cross-hatch pattern on the inner surface ofthe bore. This has the effect of seating thepiston rings, resulting in a good seal betweenthe piston and cylinder. There are two types ofhoning tool available to the home mechanic,both are driven by a rotary power tool, such as

a drill. The ‘Bottle Brush’ hone is a stiff,cylindrical brush with abrasive stones bondedto its bristles. The more conventional surfacinghone has abrasive stones mounted on springloaded legs. For the inexperienced homemechanic, satisfactory results will be achievedmore easily using the Bottle Brush hone. Note:If you are unwilling to tackle cylinder borehoning, an engineering workshop will be able tocarry out the job for you at a reasonable cost.16 Carry out the honing as follows; you willneed one of the honing tools describedabove, a power drill/air wrench, a supply ofclean rags, some honing oil and a pair ofsafety glasses.17 Fit the honing tool in the drill chuck.Lubricate the cylinder bores with honing oil andinsert the honing tool into the first bore,compressing the stones to allow it to fit. Turnon the drill at its slowest speed and as the toolrotates, move it up and down in the bore at arate that produces a fine cross-hatch patternon the surface. The lines of the pattern shouldideally cross at about 50-60” (see illustration).,although some piston ring manufacturers mayquote a different angle; check the literaturesupplied with the new rings.

A Warning: Wear safety glasses to

!pro tact your eyes from debrisflying off the honing tool.

16 Use plenty of oil during the honingprocess. Do not remove any more materialthan is necessary to produce the requiredfinish. When removing the hone tool from thebore, do not pull it out whilst it is still rotating;maintain the up/down movement until thechuck has stopped, then withdraw the toolwhilst rotating the chuck by hand, in thenormal direction of rotation.19 Wipe out the oil and swarf with a rag andproceed to the next bore. When all the boreshave been honed, thoroughly clean the wholecylinder block in hot soapy water to removeall traces of honing oil and debris. The blockcan be considered clean when a clean rag,moistened with new engine oil does not pickup any grey residue when wiped along thebore.

7.12 Bore measurement points 7.17 Cylinder bore honing pattern

8.8 Typical shell bearing failures

20 Apply a light coating of engine oil to themating surfaces and cylinder bores to preventrust forming. Store the block in a plastic baguntil reassembly.

Inspection1 Even though the main and big-end bearingsshould be renewed during the engineoverhaul, the old bearings should be retainedfor close examination, as they may revealvaluable information about the condition ofthe engine.2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack oflubrication, the presence of dirt or otherforeign particles, overloading the engine, orcorrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearingfailure, the cause must be corrected beforethe engine is reassembled, to prevent it fromhappening again.3 When examining the bearing shells, removethem from the cylinder block/crankcase, themain bearing caps, the connecting rods andthe connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Laythem out on a clean surface in the samegeneral position as their location in theengine. This will enable you to match anybearing problems with the correspondingcrankshaft journal. Do not touch any of theshell’s internal bearing surface with yourfingers while checking it, or the delicatesurface may be scratched.4 Dirt and other foreign matter gets into theengine in a variety of ways. It may be left inthe engine during assembly, or it may passthrough filters or the crankcase ventilationsystem. It may get into the oil, and from thereinto the bearings. Metal chips from machiningoperations and normal engine wear are often

present. Abrasives are sometimes left inengine components after reconditioning,especially when parts are not thoroughlycleaned using the proper cleaning methods.Whatever the source, these foreign objectsoften end up embedded in the soft bearingmaterial, and are easily recognised. Largeparticles will not embed in the bearing, but willscore or gouge the bearing and journal. Thebest prevention for this cause of bearingfailure is to clean all parts thoroughly, andkeep everything spotlessly-clean duringengine assembly. Frequent and regular engineoil and filter changes are also recommended.5 Lack of lubr icat ion (or lubr icat ionbreakdown) has a number of interrelatedcauses. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),overloading (which squeezes the oil from thebearing face) and oil leakage (from excessivebearing clearances, worn oil pump or highengine speeds) all contribute to lubricationbreakdown. Blocked oil passages, whichusually are the result of misaligned oil holes ina bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing,and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is thecause of bearing failure, the bearing materialis wiped or extruded from the steel backing ofthe bearing. Temperatures may increase tothe point where the steel backing turns bluefrom overheating.6 Driving habits can have a definite effect onbearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation(labouring the engine) puts very high loads onbearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film.These loads cause the bearings to flex, whichproduces fine cracks in the bearing face(fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearingmaterial will loosen in pieces, and tear awayfrom the steel backing.7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion ofbearings, because insufficient engine heat isproduced to drive off the condensed waterand corrosive gases. These products collectin the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. Asthe oil is carried to the engine bearings, theacid attacks and corrodes the bearingmaterial.8 Incorrect bearing installation during engineassembly will lead to bearing failure as well.Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearingrunning clearance, and will result in oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trappedbehind a bearing shell result in high spots onthe bearing, which lead to failure (seeillustration).9 Do not touch any shell’s internal bearingsurface with your fingers during reassembly;there is a risk of scratching the delicatesurface, or of depositing particles of dirt on it.10 As mentioned at the beginning of thisSection, the bearing shells should be renewedas a matter of course during engine overhaul;to do otherwise is false economy.

Selection - mainand big-end bearings11 Main and big-end bearings for the enginesdescribed in this Chapter are available in

standard sizes and a range of undersizes tosuit reground crankshafts - refer to Specifica-tions for details.12 The running clearances will need to bechecked when the crankshaft is refitted withits new bearings. This procedure is describedin the Section 10.

1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that allnew parts have been obtained, and that allnecessary tools are available. Read throughthe entire procedure to familiarise yourselfwith the work involved, and to ensure that allitems necessary for reassembly of the engineare at hand. In addition to all normal tools andmaterials, thread-locking compound will beneeded. A suitable tube of liquid sealant willalso be required for the joint faces that arefitted without gaskets. It is recommended thatthe manufacturers own products are used,which are specially formulated for thispurpose; the relevant product names arequoted in the text of each Section where theyare required.2 In order to save time and avoid problems,engine reassembly should ideally be carriedout in the following order:

a) Crankshaft.b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.c) Oil pump (see Chapter 2A)d) Sump (see Chapter 2A)e) Flywheel (see Chapter 2A)f) Cylinder head and gasket (see Chapter 2A)g) Timing belt sprockets and timing be/t (see

Chapter 2A)h) Engine external components and

ancillaries.i) Auxiliary drive pulleys and belts.

3 At this stage, all engine components shouldbe absolutely clean and dry, with all faultsrepaired. The components should be laid out(or in individual containers) on a completelyclean work surface.

1 Crankshaft refitting is the first stage ofengine reassembly following overhaul. At thispoint, it is assumed that the crankshaft,cylinder block/crankcase and bearings havebeen cleaned, inspected and reconditioned orrenewed.2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, levelwork surface, with the crankcase facingupwards. Unbolt the bearing caps and carefullyrelease them from the crankcase; lay them outin order to ensure correct reassembly. If theyare still in place, remove the bearing shells fromthe caps and the crankcase and wipe out the

2B.14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

10.3 Fitting the centre main bearingupper shell

inner surfaces with a clean rag - they must bekept spotlessly clean.3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearingshells with a rag and lay them on the bearingsaddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs onthe shells engage with the recesses in thesaddles and that the oil holes are correctlyaligned (see illustration). Do not hammer orotherwise force the bearing shells into place.It is critically important that the surfaces of thebearings are kept free from damage andcontamination.4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and thecrankshaft journals a final clean with a rag.Check that the oil holes in the crankshaft arefree from dirt, as any left here will becomeembedded in the new bearings when theengine is first started.5 Carefu l ly lay the crankshaf t in thecrankcase, taking care not to dislodge thebearing shells.

Running clearance check6 When the crankshaft and bearings arerefitted, a clearance must exist between themto allow lubricant to circulate. This clearanceis impossible to check using feeler blades, soPlastigage is used. This is a thin strip of softplastic that is crushed between the bearingshells and journals when the bearing caps aretightened up. The change in its width thenindicates the size of the clearance gap.7 Cut off five pieces of Plastigage, justshorter than the length of the crankshaftjournal. Lay a piece on each journal, in linewith its axis (see illustration).6 Wipe off the rear surfaces of the new lower

10.7 Lay a piece of Plastigage on eachjournal, in line with its axis

half main bearing shells and fit them to the mainbearing caps, again ensuring that the locatinglugs engage correctly.9 Wipe the front surfaces of the bearing shellsand give them a light coating of siliconerelease agent - this will prevent the Plastigagefrom sticking to the shell. Fit the caps in theircorrect locations on the bearing saddles,using the manufacturers markings as a guide.Ensure that they are correctly orientated - thecaps should be fitted such that the recessesfor the bearing shell locating lugs are on thesame side as those in the bearing saddle.10 Working from the centre bearing cap,tighten the bolts one half turn at a time untilthey are all correctly torqued to their firststage only. Do not allow the crankshaft torotate at all whilst the Plastigage is in place.Progressively unbolt the bearing caps andremove them, taking care not to dislodge thePlastigage.11 The width of the crushed Plastigage cannow be measured, using the scale provided(see illustration). Use the correct scale, asboth imperial and metric are printed. Thismeasurement indicates the running clearance- compare it with that listed in Specifications.If the clearance is outside the tolerance, itmay be due to dirt or debris trapped under thebearing surface; try cleaning them again andrepeat the clearance check. If the results arestill unacceptable, re-check the journaldiameters and the bearing sizes. Note that ifthe Plastigage is thicker at one end, thejournals may be tapered and as such, willrequire regrinding.

10.11 Measure the width of the crushedPlastigage using the gauge provided

1 2 When you are sat is f ied that theclearances are correct, carefully remove theremains of the Plastigage from the journalsand bearings faces. Use a soft, plastic orwooden scraper as anything metallic is likelyto damage the surfaces.

Crankshaft - final refitting13 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase.Wipe off the surfaces of the bearings in thecrankcase and the bearing caps. Fit the thrustbearings either side of the No 3 bearingsaddle, between cylinders No 2 and 3 (seeillustration). Use a small quantity of grease tohold them in place; ensure that they areseated correctly in the machined recesses,with the oil grooves facing outwards.14 Liberally coat the bearing shells in thecrankcase with clean engine oil (seeillustration).15 Lower the crankshaft into position so thatNo 2 and 3 cylinder crankpins are at TDC;No 1 and 4 cylinder crankpins will then be atBDC, ready for fitting No 1 piston.16 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in themain bearing caps with clean engine oil, thenfit the thrustwashers to either side of bearingcap No 3, noting that the lugs protruding fromthe washers engage the recesses in the sideof the bearing cap (see illustration). Makesure that the locating lugs on the shells arestill engaged with the corresponding recessesin the caps.17 Fit the main bearing caps in the correctorder and orientation - No 1 bearing cap mustbe at the timing belt end of the engine and thebearing shell locating recesses in the bearing

10.13 Thrustwashers fitted to theNo 3 bearing saddle

10.14 Liberally coat the bearing shellsthe crankcase with clean engine oil

in 10.16 Fitting the centre main bearing cap

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B. 15

10.18 Tightening the main bearing bolts 11.5 Measuring the piston ring end gapusing a feeler blade

saddles and caps must be adjacent to eachother. Insert the bearing cap bolts and handtighten them only.18 Working from the centre bearing capoutwards, tighten the retaining bolts to theirspecified torques. Where the torque isexpressed in several stages, tighten all thebolts to the first stage, then repeat theexercise in the same sequence for thesubsequent stage(s) (see illustration).19 Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,together with a new oil seal; refer to Part A ofthis Chapter for details.20 Check that the crankshaft rotates freelyby turning it by manually. If excessiveresistance is felt, re-check the runningclearances, as described above.21 Carry out a check of the crankshaftendfloat as described at the beginning ofSection 6. If the thrust surfaces of thecrankshaft have been checked and new thrustbearings have been fitted, then the endfloatshould be within specification.

1 At this point it is assumed that the pistonshave been correctly assembled to theirrespective connecting rods and that thepiston ring side clearances have beenchecked. If not, refer to the end of Section 5.2 Before the rings can be fitted to the pistons,the end gaps must be checked with the ringsfitted into the cylinder bores.3 Lay out the piston assemblies and new ringsets on a clean work surface so the comp-onents are kept together in their groupsduring and after end gap checking. Place thecrank-case on the work surface on its side,giving access to the top and bottom of thebores.4 Take the No 1 piston top ring and insert it intothe top of the bore. Using the No1 piston as aram, push the ring close to the bottom of thebore, at the lowest point of the piston travel.Ensure that it is perfectly square in the bore bypushing firmly against the piston crown.5 Use a set of feeler blades to measure thegap between the ends of the piston ring; thecorrect blade will just pass through the gap

with a minimal amount of resistance (seeillustration). Compare this measurement withthat listed in Specifications. Check that youhave the correct ring before deciding that agap is incorrect. Repeat the operation for alltwelve rings.6 If new rings are being fitted, it is unlikelythat the end gaps will be too small. If ameasurement is found to be undersize, it mustbe corrected or there is the risk that the endsof the ring may contact each other duringoperation, possibly resulting in enginedamage. This is achieved by gradually filingdown the ends of the ring, using a fileclamped in a vice. Fit the ring over the filesuch that both its ends contact oppositefaces of the file. Move the ring along the file,removing small amounts of material at a time.Take great care as the rings are brittle andform sharp edges if they fracture. Rememberto keep the rings and piston assemblies in thecorrect order.7 When all the piston ring end gaps havebeen verified, they can be fitted to the pistons.Work from the lowest ring groove (oil controlring) upwards. Note that the oil control ringcomprises two side rails separated by aexpander ring. Note also that the twocompression rings are different in crosssection and so must be fitted in the correctgroove and the right way up, using a pistonring fitting tool. Both of the compression ringshave marks stamped on one side to indicatethe top facing surface. Ensure that thesemarks face up when the rings are fitted.8 Distribute the end gaps around the piston,spaced at 120° intervals to the each other.Note: If the piston ring manufacturer suppliesspecific fitting instructions with the rings,follow these exclusively.

Big-end running clearance

Note: At this point, it is assumed that thecrankshaft has been fitted to the engine, asdescribed in Section 10.

1 As with the main bearings (Section 10), arunning clearance must exist between the big-end crankpin and its bearing shells to allow oilto circulate. There are two methods ofchecking the size of the running clearance, asdescribed in the following paragraphs.2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, levelwork surface, with the crankcase facingupwards. Position the crankshaft so thatcrankpins No 1 and 4 are at BDC.3 The first method is less accurate andinvolves bolting bearing caps to the big-ends,away from the crankshaft, with the bearingshells in place. Note: Correct orientation ofthe bearing caps is critical; refer to the notesin Section 5. The internal diameter formed bythe assembled big-end is then measuredusing internal vernier callipers. The diameterof the respective crankpin is then subtractedfrom this measurement and the result is therunning clearance.4 The second method of carrying out thischeck involves the use of Plastigage, in thesame manner as the main bearing runningclearance check (see Section 10) and is muchmore accurate than the previous method.Clean all four crankpins with a clean rag. Withcrankpins No 1 and 4 at BDC initially, place astrand of Plastigage on each crankpin journal.5 Fit the upper big-end bearing shells to theconnecting rods, ensuring that the locatinglugs and recesses engage correctly.Temporarily refit the piston/connecting rodassemblies to the crankshaft; refit the big-endbearing caps, using the manufacturersmarkings to ensure that they are fitted thecorrect way around - refer to Final Refitting inthe following sub-Section for details.6 Tighten the bearing cap nuts/bolts asdescribed below. Take care not to disturb thePlastigage or rotate the connecting rod duringthe tightening process.7 Dismantle the assemblies without rotatingthe connecting rods. Use the scale printed onthe Plastigage envelope to determine the big-end bearing running clearance and compare itwith the figures listed in Specifications.8 If the clearance is significantly differentfrom that expected, the bearing shells may bethe wrong size (or excessively worn, if theoriginal shells are being re-used). Make surethat no dirt or oil was trapped between thebearing shells and the caps or connectingrods when the clearance was measured. Re-check the diameters of the crankpins. Notethat if the Plastigage was wider at one endthan at the other, the crankpins may betapered. When the problem is identified, fitnew bearing shells or have the crankpinsreground to a listed undersize, as appropriate.9 Upon completion, carefully scrape away alltraces of the Plastigage material from thecrankshaft and bearing shells. Use a plastic orwooden scraper, which will be soft enough toprevent scoring of the bearing surfaces.

2B.16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

12.16 Using a piston ring compressor toinstall the piston assemblies

Piston and connecting rodassemblies - final refitting1 0 Note that the following procedureassumes that the crankshaft main bearingcaps are in place (see Section 10).11 Ensure that the bearing shells arecorrectly fitted, as described at the beginningof this Section. If new shells are being fitted,ensure that all traces of the protective greaseare cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry theshells and connecting rods with a lint-freecloth.12 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons,and piston rings with clean engine oil. Lay outeach piston/connecting rod assembly in orderon a worksurface. On engines where the bigend bolts are captive in the connecting rods,fit short sections of rubber hose or tape overthe bolt threads, to protect the cylinder boresduring reassembly.13 Start with piston/connecting rod assemblyNo 1. Make sure that the piston rings are stillspaced as described in Section 12, then clampthem in position with a piston ring compressor.14 Insert the piston/connecting rod assemblyinto the top of cylinder No 1. Lower the big-end in first, guiding it to protect the big-endbolts and the cylinder bores.15 Ensure that the orientation of the piston inits cylinder is correct - the piston crown,connecting rods and big-end bearing caps areequipped with markings, which must pointtowards the timing belt end of the enginewhen the piston is installed in the bore - referto Section 5 for details.16 Using a block of wood or hammer handleagainst the piston crown, tap the assemblyinto the cylinder until the piston crown is flushwith the top of the cylinder (see illustration).17 Ensure that the bearing shell is stillcorrectly installed (see illustration). Liberallylubricate the crankpin and both bearing shellswith clean engine oil. Taking care not to markthe cylinder bores, tap the piston/connectingrod assembly down the bore and onto thecrankpin. Refit the big-end bearing cap,tightening its retaining nuts/bolts finger-tight

12.17 Big end bearing shell lug andlocating recess (arrowed)

at first. Note that the orientation of the bearingcap with respect to the connecting rod mustbe correct when the two components arereassembled. The connecting rod and itscorresponding bearing cap both haverecesses machined into them, close to theirmating surfaces - these recesses must bothface in the same direction as the arrow on thepiston crown (ie towards the timing belt end ofthe engine) when correctly installed - refer tothe illustrations in Section 5 for details.19 W orking progressively around eachbearing cap, tighten the retaining nuts half aturn at a time to the specified torque (seeillustration).20 Ref i t the remain ing three p is ton/connecting rod assemblies in the same way.21 Rotate the crankshaft by hand. Check thatit turns freely; some stiffness is to beexpected if new components have been fitted,but there should be no indication of binding ortight spots.

13 Engine - initial start-up afteroverhaul and reassembly

1 Ref i t the remainder of the enginecomponents in the order listed in Section 9 ofthis Chapter, referring to Part A wherenecessary. Refit the engine (and transmission)to the vehicle as described in Section 2 of thisChapter. Double-check the engine oil andcoolant levels and make a final check thateverything has been reconnected. Make surethat there are no tools or rags left in theengine compartment.2 Remove the spark plugs, referring toChapter 1 for details.3 The engine must be immobilised so that itcan be turned over using the starter motor,without starting - disable the fuel pump byunplugging the fuel pump power relay fromthe relay board; refer to the relevant Part ofChapter 4 for further information.

12.19 Tightening the big-end bearing caps

Caution: If the vehicle is fitted withcatalyst, it is potentially damaging toimmobilise the engine by disabling theignition system without first disabling thefuel system, as unburnt fuel could besupplied to the catalyst.4 Turn the engine using the starter motor untilthe oil pressure warning lamp goes out. If thelamp fails to extinguish after several secondsof cranking, check the engine oil level and oilfilter security. Assuming these are correct,check the security of the oil pressure switchcabling - do not progress any further until youare satisfied that oil is being pumped aroundthe engine at sufficient pressure.5 Refit the spark plugs, and reconnect thefuel pump relay.6 Start the engine, but be aware that as fuelsystem components have been disturbed, thecranking time may be a little longer thanusual.7 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,water and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if thereare some odd smells and the occasionalplume of smoke as components heat up andburn off oil deposits.8 Assuming all is well, keep the engine idlinguntil hot water is felt circulating through thetop hose.9 Check the ignition timing idle speed andidle mixture setting as described in Chapter 1,then switch the engine off.10 After a few minutes, recheck the oil andcoolant levels as described in Chapter 1 andtop-up as necessary.11 On all the engines described in thisChapter, there is no need to re-tighten thecylinder head bolts once the engine has beenrun following reassembly.12 If new pistons, piston rings or crankshaftbearings have been fitted, the engine must betreated as new, and run-in for the first600 miles (1000 km). Do not operate the engineat more than three-quarter throttle, or allow it tolabour at low engine speeds in any gear. It isalso recommended that the engine oil and filterare changed at the end of this period.

Chapter 3Cooling, heating and ventilation systemsContentsCoolant pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Cooling system electrical switches - testing, removal and refitting

Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .9.. .6 . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewalHeating and ventilation system - general information

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsGeneralExpansion tank cap opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 to 1.5 bars

ThermostatOpening temperatures:

Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87°CFully open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102°C

Fully open stroke (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Electric cooling fan thermoswitchOperating temperatures:

Single-stage switchs w i t c h e s o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Switchesoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Two-stage switchStage 1 speed:

93” to 98°C88” to 93°C

Switches on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Switchesoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 speed:

92” to 97°C84” to 91 °C

Switcheson ., . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99° to 105°CSwitchesoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91° to 98°C

Torque wrench settingsRadiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Thermostat cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Cooling fan retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Cooling fan cowling bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Cooling fan thermostatic switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Coolant pump.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Nm Ibf ft. . . . . . . . . 10 7. . . . . . . . . 10 7. . . . . . . . . 20 15. . . . . . . . . 10 7. . . . . . . . . 10 7. . . . . . . . . 25 18. . . . . . . . . 10 7

3

3.2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

1 General information andprecautions

General information1 The cooling system is of pressurised type,including a pump, an aluminium crossflowradiator, e lect r ic cool ing fan, and athermostat. The system functions as follows.Cold coolant is pumped around the cylinderblock, head passages, expansion tank, inletmanifold and heater matrix by the coolantpump. After cooling the cylinder bores,combustion surfaces and valve seats, thecoolant is returned to the water pump via themetal tube at the rear of the engine. With theengine cold, the thermostat is initially closedand there is no circulation through theradiator.2 When the coolant reaches a predeterminedtemperature, the thermostat opens and thecoolant passes through to the radiator. As thecoolant circulates through the radiator it iscooled by the inrush of air when the car is inforward motion. Airflow is supplemented bythe action of the electric cooling fan whennecessary. From the bottom of the radiatorthe coolant passes through the thermostat tothe coolant pump and the cycle is repeated. Inthis system the thermostat is located in thereturn line to the coolant pump.3 The electric cooling fan mounted on the rearof the radiator is controlled by a thermo-static switch. At a predetermined coolanttemperature the switch actuates the fan.

Precautions

A Warning: Do not attempt to

!remove the expansion tank fillercap or disturb any part of thecooling system while the engine

is hot, as there is a high risk of scalding. Ifthe expansion tank filler cap must beremoved before the engine and radiatorhave fully cooled (even though this is notrecommended) the pressure in the coolingsystem must first be relieved. Cover thecap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoidscalding, and slowly unscrew the filler capuntil a hissing sound can be heard. When

the hissing has stopped, indicating thatthe pressure has reduced, slowly unscrewthe filler cap until it can be removed; ifmore hissing sounds are heard, wait untilthey have stopped before unscrewing thecap completely. At all times keep wellaway from the filler cap opening.

A Warning: Do not allow

!antifreeze to come into contactwith skin or pain ted surfaces ofthe vehicle. Rinse off spills

immediately with plenty of water. Neverleave antifreeze in an open container or ina puddle in the driveway or on the garagefloor. Children and pets are attracted by itssweet smell. Antifreeze can be fatal ifingested.

A Warning: If the engine is hot,

!the electric cooling fan maystart rotating even if the engineis not running, so be careful to

keep hands, hair and loose clothing wellclear when working in the enginecompartment.

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before proceeding.1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveala faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.2 First drain the cooling system (seeChapter 1). If the coolant is not due forrenewal, it may be re-used if it is collected in aclean container.3 To disconnect a hose, release its retainingclips, then move them along the hose, clear ofthe relevant inlet/outlet union. Carefully workthe hose free. Do not attempt to disconnectany part of the system while it is still hot.4 Note that the radiator inlet and outletunions are fragile; do not use excessive forcewhen attempting to remove the hoses. If ahose proves to be difficult to remove, try torelease it by rotating the hose ends beforeattempting to free it.5 When fitting a hose, first slide the clipsonto the centre of the hose, then work thehose into position. If clamp type clips were

originally fitted, it is a good idea to replacethem with screw type clips when refitting thehose. If the hose is stiff, use a little soapywater as a lubricant.

6 Work the hose into position, checking that itis correctly routed, then slide each clip alongthe hose until it passes over the flared end ofthe relevant inlet/outlet union, before securingit in position with the retaining clip.7 Refill the cooling system with reference toChapter 1.8 Check thoroughly for leaks as soon aspossible after disturbing any part of thecooling system.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Note:Make sure you know the anti-theft code forthe radio so that it can be reactivated later.2 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1 by disconnecting the radiatorbottom hose.3 Disconnect the wiring from the thermo-switch and coo l i ng f an motor (seeillustrations).4 Disconnect the top hose from the radiator(see illustration).5 Remove the upper mounting screws andwashers, move the top of the radiatorrearwards, and withdraw the mountingrubbers (see illustrations).6 Lift the radiator out of the lower mountingrubbers and withdraw it from the enginecompartment taking care not to damage thematrix.7 Remove the screws and withdraw thecowling and fan from the radiator.

3.3a Disconnect the wiringthermoswitch . . .

from the 3.3b . . . and cooling fan motor 3.4 Disconnecting the top hose

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3.3

3.5a Removing the radiator uppermounting screws

inspection8 If the radiator has been removed due tosuspected blockage, reverse flush it asdescribed in Chapter 1. Clean dirt and debrisfrom the radiator fins, using an air line (inwhich case, wear eye protection) or a softbrush. Be careful, as the fins are easilydamaged, and are sharp.9 If necessary, a radiator specialist canperform a “flow test” on the radiator, toestablish whether an internal blockage exists.10 A leaking radiator must be referred to aspecialist for permanent repair. Do notattempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator,as damage may result.11 In an emergency, minor leaks from theradiator can be cured by using a suitableradiator sealant in accordance with themanufacturers instructions with the radiator insitu.12 If the radiator is to be sent for repair orrenewed, remove the thermostatic switch.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ifnecessary renew the radiator mountingrubbers. Fill the cooling system as describedin Chapter 1.

Removal1 The thermostat is located in the outlethousing on the left-hand end of the cylinderhead. To remove it, first drain the coolingsystem as described in Chapter 1.2 Unscrew the bolts and remove thethermostat cover (see illustrations). Placethe cover with top hose still attached to oneside.3 Remove the sealing ring (see illustration).4 Extract the thermostat from the outlethousing.

Testing5 To test whether the unit is serviceable,suspend it with a piece of string in a container

3.5b Removing the radiator uppermounting rubbers

of water. Gradually heat the water and notethe temperature at which the thermostatstarts to open. Continue heating the water tothe specified fully open temperature thencheck that the thermostat has opened by atleast the minimum amount given in the Speci-fications. Remove the thermostat from thewater and check that it is fully closed whencold.6 Renew the thermostat if it fails to operatecorrectly.7 Clean the thermostat seating and themating faces of the outlet housing and cover.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew sealing ring and tighten the cover bolts tothe specified torque. Fill the cooling system asdescribed in Chapter 1.

Testing1 The cooling fan is supplied with currentthrough the ignition switch, fuse and radiatorthermoswitch which is mounted in the left-hand end of the radiator. Either a single- ortwo-stage fan is fitted. The two-stage fan hastwo speed settings; the thermostatic switchactually contains two switches one for thestage 1 fan speed setting and another for thestage 2 fan speed setting. Testing of the

4.2a Unscrew the socket head bolts. . .

cooling fan circuit is as follows noting thatwhere applicable the following check shouldbe carried out on both the stage 1 speedcircuit and the stage 2 speed circuit (seewiring diagrams at the end of Chapter 12).2 If the fan does not work, first check thefuses. If they are good, run the engine untilnormal operating temperature is reached,then allow it to idle. If the fan does not cut inwithin a few minutes, switch off the ignitionand disconnect the wiring plug from thecooling fan thermoswitch. Bridge the relevanttwo contacts in the wiring plug using a lengthof spare wire, and switch on the ignition. If thefan now operates, the switch is probablyfaulty and should be renewed.3 If the switch appears to work, the motorcan be checked by disconnecting the motorwiring connector and connecting a 12 voltsupply directly to the motor terminals.4 If the fan still fails to operate, check thecooling fan circuit wiring with reference toChapter 12. Check each wire for continuityand make sure all connections are clean andfree from corrosion. If the motor is faulty, itmust be renewed, as no spares are available.

Removal5 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Note:Make sure you know the anti-theft code forthe radio so that it can be re-activated whenthe battery is reconnected.6 Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fanmotor.7 Remove the four screws and lift the cowlingtogether with the cooling fan and motor fromthe radiator.

4.2b . . . and remove the thermostat cover 4.3 Removing the thermostat coversealing ring

3.4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

8 Remove the nuts and lift the cooling fanand motor from the cowling (see illustration).9 If necessary the fan can be separated fromthe motor by prising off the clamp washer.Assemble the components in reverse orderusing a new clamp washer.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electric cooling fan thermostatic

Testing1 Testing the switch is described in Section 5,as part of the cooling fan test procedure.

Removal2 The switch is located in the left-hand sideof the radiator. The engine and radiator shouldbe cold before removing the switch.3 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Note:Make sure you know the anti-theft code forthe radio so that it can be reactivated later.4 Either drain the cooling system to below thelevel of the switch (as described in Chapter 1),or have ready a suitable plug which can beused to plug the switch aperture in theradiator whilst the switch is removed. If a plugis used, take great care not to damage theradiator, and do not use anything which willallow foreign matter to enter the radiator.5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch(see illustration).6 Carefully unscrew the switch from theradiator. Recover the washer.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew washer and tighten the switch to thespecified torque setting. On completion, refillthe cooling system as described in Chapter 1or top-up as described in “Weekly checks”.8 Start the engine and run it until it reachesnormal operating temperature, then continueto run the engine and check that the coolingfan cuts in and functions correctly.

Coolant temperature gaugesensor

Testing9 The coolant temperature gauge, mountedin the instrument panel, is fed with a stabilisedvoltage supply from the instrument panel feed(through the ignition switch and a fuse), andits earth is controlled by the sensor.10 The sensor unit is clipped into the coolantoutlet housing on the left-hand end of thecylinder head (see illustration). The sensorcontains a thermistor, which consists of anelectronic component whose electricalresistance decreases at a predetermined rateas its temperature rises. When the coolant iscold, the sensor resistance is high, thereforecurrent flow through the gauge is reduced,and the gauge needle points towards the“cold” end of the scale. If the sensor is faulty,it must be renewed.11 If the gauge develops a fault, first checkthe other instruments; if they do not work atall, check the instrument panel electrical feed.If the readings are erratic, there may be a faultin the instrument panel assembly. If the faultlies in the temperature gauge alone, check itas follows.12 If the gauge needle remains at the “cold”end of the scale, disconnect the wiringconnector from the sensor unit, and earth thetemperature gauge wire (see “Wir ingdiagrams” for details) to the cylinder head. Ifthe needle then deflects when the ignition isswitched on, the sensor unit is proved faulty,and should be renewed. If the needle stilldoes not move, remove the instrument panel(Chapter 12) and check the continuity of thewiring between the sensor unit and the gauge,and the feed to the gauge unit. If continuity isshown, and the fault still exists, then thegauge is faulty and should be renewed.13 If the gauge needle remains at the “hot”end of the scale, disconnect the sensor wire.If the needle then returns to the “cold” end ofthe scale when the ignition is switched on, thesensor unit is proved faulty and should berenewed. If the needle still does not move,check the remainder of the circuit asdescribed previously.

Removal14 Either partially drain the cooling system tojust below the level of the sensor (asdescribed in Chapter 1), or have ready asuitable plug which can be used to plug thesensor aperture whilst it is removed. If a plugis used, take great care not to damage thesensor unit aperture, and do not use anythingwhich will allow foreign matter to enter thecooling system.15 Disconnect the wiring from the sensor.16 Depress the sensor unit and slide out itsretaining clip. Withdraw the sensor from thecoolant elbow and recover its sealing ring.

Refitting17 Fit a new sealing ring to the sensor unit.Push the sensor fully into the coolant elbowand secure it in position with the retaining clip.18 Reconnect the wiring connector then refillthe cooling system as described in Chapter 1or top-up as described in “Weekly checks”.

Removal1 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).2 Where necessary, remove the air cleanerand air ducting as described in Chapter 4, anddisconnect the battery negative lead.3 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.4 Turn the engine with a spanner on thecrankshaft pulley bolt until the timing beltinner cover retaining bolt is visible through thecamshaft sprocket hole. Unscrew and removethe bolt.5 Align the timing marks and release thetiming belt from the water pump and camshaftsprocket with reference to Chapter 2. Alsounbolt and remove the camshaft sprocket.6 Remove the bolts and withdraw the timingbelt inner cover followed by the water pump.Remove the sealing ring (see illustrations).

Inspection7 It is not possible to repair the water pump; iffaulty it must be renewed. Clean the matingfaces of the water pump and cylinder block.

5.8 Cooling fan and mounting nuts 6.5 Cooling fan motor thermoswitch 6.10 Coolant temperature gauge sensorclipped into the coolant outlet housing on

the left-hand end of the cylinder head

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3.5

7.6a Removing the water pump

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew sealing ring and refer to Chapter 2 whenfitting the camshaft sprocket and tensioningthe timing belt. If a reconditioned coolantpump is being fitted, check if the number “5”is stamped on the mounting flange - if so, usean oversize sealing ring of 5 mm diameter. Fillthe cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

1 The heating/ventilation system consists of afour-speed blower motor (housed in theengine compartment plenum chamber), face-level vents in the centre and at each end ofthe facia, and air ducts to the front footwells.2 The control unit is located in the facia, and

9.3 Disconnecting the heater wiring block 9.4 Disconnecting the heater hoses

7.6b Removing the water pumpsealing ring

the controls operate flap valves to deflect andmix the air flowing through the various parts ofthe heating/ventilation system. The flap valvesare contained in the air distribution housing,which acts as a central distribution unit,passing air to the various ducts and vents.3 Cold air enters the system through the grilleat the rear of the engine compartment.4 The airflow, which can be boosted by theblower, then flows through the various ducts,according to the settings of the controls. Staleair is expelled through ducts at the rear of thepassenger compartment. If warm air isrequired, the cold air is passed through theheater matrix, which is heated by the enginecoolant.5 If necessary, the outside air supply can beclosed off, allowing the air inside the vehicleto be recirculated. This can be useful toprevent unpleasant odours entering fromoutside the vehicle, but should only be used

briefly, as the recirculated air inside thevehicle will soon deteriorate.6 Certain models may be fitted with heatedfront seats. The heat is produced byelectrically-heated mats in the seat andbackrest cushions. The temperature isregulated automatically by a thermostat, andcannot be adjusted.

9 Heater/ventilationcomponents -

Heater unit (including blowermotor and matrix)1 Drain the cooling system with reference toChapter 1.2 Remove the sealing strip and cover fromthe plenum chamber at the rear of the enginecompartment.3 Pull the wiring block from the terminals onthe heater (see illustration).4 Note the locations of the hoses then loosenthe c l ips and d isconnect them (seeillustration).5 Release the clip and disconnect thetemperature control cable (see illustration).6 Prise out the clips, ease the heater from thefresh air box, and withdraw it from thebulkhead. Remove all traces of gasket andsealing compound (see illustrations).7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew gasket and fill and bleed the coolingsystem with reference to Chapter 1. Makesure the hoses are fitted the correct way e

3

9.5 Showing heater temperature controland cable

9.6a Prise off the clips . . , 9.6b . . . and withdraw the heater 9.6c The heater air box on the bulkhead(heater removed)

3.6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

9.7 The flow direction arrow on the upperheater outlet - beneath the outlet with

temperature valve fitted

round - the direction of flow is indicated onthe outlet elbow (see illustration).

Heater blower motorNote: The blower motor is fixed in the heaterunit housing and cannot be obtained as aseparate item.8 Remove the heater unit as describedpreviously.9 Remove the matrix as described later in thissub-Section.10 Remove the series resistor from thehousing (see illustration). If necessary,separate the housing halves and remove themotor.11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew gasket and fill and bleed the coolingsystem with reference to Chapter 1.

Heater matrix12 Remove the heater unit as describedpreviously.13 Remove the cross-head screws and slidethe m a t r i x f r o m t h e h o u s i n g ( s e eillustrations).14 Check the condition of the gasketbetween the matrix and the housing andrenew if necessary.15 Refitting is a reversal of removal but fit anew housing gasket and fill and bleed thecooling system with reference to Chapter 1.

Air distribution housing(passenger compartment)16 Remove the heater unit as previouslydescribed.17 Remove the facia (see Chapter 11).18 Disconnect the air ducts from thehousing.19 Note the positions of the control cablesthen disconnect them.20 Unscrew the mounting bolts and removethe air distribution housing from inside thecar.21 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew housing gasket and fill and bleed thecooling system with reference to Chapter 1. If

9.10 Series resistor and motorconnections

9.13b Removing the heater matrix

necessary adjust the control cables asdescribed in the following paragraphs.

Heater/ventilation control paneland cables22 Remove the radio and ashtray insert asdescribed in Chapter 12.23 Where necessary, remove the switchesfor the seat heating, rear window heating andfoglights as described in Chapter 12.24 Unscrew the screws securing the heatercontrol panel to the facia and withdraw it (seeillustration).25 Note the positions of the control cableson the a i r d is t r ibut ion housing thendisconnect them. Withdraw the cables from

9.13a Matrix retaining screw locations inthe heater body

9.13c Heater matrix and temperaturecontrol valve

the facia and if necessary disconnect themfrom the controls (see illustration).26 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butadjust them as follows.27 To adjust the regulator valve cable turnthe temperature knob fully anticlockwise tothe “cold” position, then remove the clipwhich secures the inner cable to the lever onthe housing. With the outer cable securelyclipped to the housing, move the lever to the“cold” position then refit the inner cable clip.28 To adjust the distribution cable turn theknob fully anticlockwise and remove the outercable clip from the housing. Move the housinglever to the “dash panel outlet” position andrefit the outer cable clip.

9.24 Removing the heater control panelsecuring screws

9.25 Heater control panel and cableconnections

Chapter 4 Part A:Fuel system: single-point injection modelsContentsAccelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Fuel pumps and gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .7Air cleaner and inlet system - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Air cleaner filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1 General fuel system checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1Fuel filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Fuel injection system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Inlet air temperature regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Fuel injection system adjustment - general information . . . . . . . . . . .1O Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 2AFuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 5 Unleaded petrol - general information and usage ......................... 11

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel system dataFuel pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel pump delivery rate (minimum):Liftpump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .In-linepump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Regulated fuel pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Maximum engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Injector electrical resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating:

Engine code:PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Torque wrench settingsThrottle body air cleaner retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Throttle body through-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel pipe to throttle body banjo bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inlet manifold retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inlet manifold heater retaining screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Injector cap/inlet air temperature sensor housing screw . . . . . . . . . . . .Throttle valve positioning module screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel tank retaining strap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Lambdasensor.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bosch Mono-Motronic

Electric lift pump immersed in fuel tank and electric in-line pumpmounted adjacent fuel tank.

1800 cm3 /min approx. (battery voltage of 12.0 V)1250 cm3 / min approx.(battery voltage of 12.0 v)0.8 to 1.2 bar750 - 850 rpm (non-adjustable, electronically controlled)6500 rpm (governed electronically)1.2 to 1.6 at 15 to 30°C

95 RON unleaded95 RON unleaded91 RON unleaded91 RON unleaded

Nm lbft10 715 1125 1825 1810 75 46 425 1850 37

4A.2 Fuel system: single-point injection models

1 General information andprecautions

General information1 The Bosch Mono-Motronic system is a self-contained engine management system, whichcontrols both the fuel injection and ignition.This Chapter deals with the fuel injectionsystem components only - refer to Chapter 5Afor details of the ignition system components.2 The fuel injection system comprises a fueltank, an electric fuel lift pump an electric fuelline pump, a fuel filter, fuel supply and returnlines, a throttle body with an integralelectronic fuel injector, and an ElectronicContro l Uni t (ECU) together wi th i tsassociated sensors, actuators and wiring.3 The fuel lift and line pumps deliver aconstant supp l y o f f ue l t h rough anaccumulator/coarse mesh filter and a finemesh cartridge filter to the throttle body, at aslightly higher pressure than required. The fuelpressure regulator (integral with the throttlebody) maintains a constant fuel pressure atthe fuel injector and returns excess fuel to thetank via the return line. This constant flowsystem also helps to reduce fuel temperatureand prevents vaporisation, aiding hot starting.4 The fuel injector is an electromagneticallyoperated pintle valve, which is opened andclosed many times per second by anElectronic Control Unit (ECU). When the valveis open, fuel is sprayed in conical pattern ontothe back of the throttle disc. The ECUcalculates the injection timing and durationaccording to engine speed, throttle positionand rate of opening, inlet air temperature,coolant temperature, road speed and exhaustgas oxygen content information, receivedfrom sensors mounted on the engine.5 Inlet air is drawn into the engine through theair cleaner, which contains a renewable paperfilter element. The inlet air temperature isregulated by a vacuum operated valvemounted in the air cleaner, which blends air atambient temperature with hot air, heated bythe exhaust manifold.6 Idle speed control is achieved as follows.An electronic throttle positioning module,mounted on the side of the throttle body altersthe amount of air entering the engine andhence the idle speed. The ignition systemprovides idle speed stability by increasing anddecreasing the engines torque throughmaking small alterations to the ignition timing.As a result, manual adjustment of the engineidle speed is not necessary.7 To improve cold starting and idling, anelectric heating element is mounted on theunderside of the inlet manifold; this preventsfuel vapour condensation on the manifoldwalls when the engine is cold. Power issupplied to the heater by a relay, which is inturn controlled by the ECU.8 The exhaust gas oxygen content is

constantly monitored by the ECU via theLambda sensor, which is mounted in theexhaust pipe. The ECU then uses thisinformation to modify the injection timing andduration to maintain the optimum air:fuel ratio- a result of this is that manual adjustment ofthe idle exhaust CO content is not necessary.In addition, certain models are fitted with anexhaust catalyst - see Chapter 4C for details.9 The ECU also controls the operation of theactivated charcoal filter evaporative losssystem - refer to Chapter 4C for furtherdetails.10 It should be noted that fault diagnosis ofthe Bosch Mono-Motronic enginemanagement system is only possible withdedicated electronic test equipment.Problems with the systems operation shouldtherefore be referred to a VW dealer forassessment. Once the fault has beenidentified, the removal/refitting sequencesdetailed in the following Sections will thenallow the appropriate component(s) torenewed as required.Note: Throughout this Chapter, engines arefrequent/y referred to by their code number,rather than by capacity - refer to Chapter 2Afor engine code number listings.

Precautions

A Warning: Petrol is extremely

!flammable - great care must betaken when working on any partof the fuel system. Do not

smoke, or allow any naked flames oruncovered light bulbs near the work area.Note that gas powered domesticappliances with pilot flames, such asheaters boilers and tumble-dryers, alsopresent a fire hazard - bear this in mind ifyou are working in an area where suchappliances are present. Always keep asuitable fire extinguisher close to the workarea and familiarise yourself with itsoperation before starting work. Wear eyeprotection when working on fuel systemsand wash off any fuel spilt on bare skinimmediately with soap and water. Notethat fuel vapour is just as dangerous asliquid fuel; a vessel that has been emptiedof liquid fuel will still contain vapour andcan be potentially explosive.11 Many of the operations described in thisChapter involve the disconnection of fuellines, which may cause an amount of fuelspillage. Before commencing work, refer tothe above Warning and the information inSafety First! at the beginning of this manual.12 Residual fuel pressure always remain inthe fuel system, long after the engine hasbeen switched off. This pressure must berelieved in a controlled manner before workcan commence on any component in the fuelsystem - refer to Section 9 for details.13 When working with fuel system compo-nents, pay particular attention to cleanliness -dirt entering the fuel system may causeblockages which will lead to poor running.14 In the interests of personal safety and

equipment protection, many of theprocedures in this Chapter suggest that thenegative cable be removed from the batteryterminal. This firstly eliminates the possibilityof accidental short circuits being caused asthe vehicle is being worked upon, andsecondly prevents damage to electroniccomponents (eg sensors, actuators, ECU’s)which are particularly sensitive to the powersurges c a u s e d b y disconnection orreconnection of the wiring harness whilst theyare still “live”.15 It should be noted, however, that certainengine management systems described inthis Chapter (and Chapter 5B) have a“learning” capability, that allows the system toadapt to the engine’s running characteristicsas it wears with use. This “learnt” informationis lost when the battery is disconnected andthe system will then take a short period oftime to “re-learn” the engines’ characteristics- this may be manifested (temporarily) asrough idling, reduced throttle response andpossibly a slight increase in fuel consumption,until the system re-adapts. The re-adaptationtime will depend on how often the vehicle isused and the driving conditions encountered.

Removal1 Slacken the worm dr ive c l ips anddisconnect the air ducting from the air cleanerassembly, including the warm air ducting fromthe exhaust manifold.2 Prise open the retaining clips, lift the coverfrom the top of the air cleaner and recover thefilter element, as described in Chapter 1.3 Unscrew the retaining nuts, lift off theretaining ring and remove the air cleaner fromthe top of the throttle body (see illustration).4 Disconnect the air temperature regulatorvacuum hoses f rom the por ts on theunderside of the air cleaner - make a carefulnote of their order of connection to aidrefitting.

Refitting5 Refit the air cleaner by following theremoval procedure in reverse.

Removal1 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from thetemperature regulator, noting their order ofconnection.2 Remove the throttle body air cleaner, asdescribed in Section 2.3 Prise off the metal spring clip (refer to

Fuel system: single-point injection models 4A.3

2.3 Air cleaner assembly -

8

9

models with single-pointfuel injection

1 To throttle bodyvacuum tapping

2 Air cleaner housing3 Retaining ring4 Retaining nut5 Inlet air temperature

regulator valve6 Gasket7 Spring clip8 Intake air temperature

regulating flap9 Warm air ducting1 0 Cold air ducting

illustration 2.3) and remove the temperatureregulator from the air cleaner housing.Recover the gasket.

Refitting4 Refit the regulator by following the removalprocedure in reverse. Use a new gasket.

Removal1 Remove the throttle body air box/air cleaneras described in Section 2.2 At the throttle body, disconnect theaccelerator cable inner from the throttle valvespindle plate (see illustration).3 Remove the adjustment clip and extract thecable outer from the mounting bracket (referto illustration 4.2).4 To improve access, refer to Chapter 11 and

remove the facia trim panels from underneaththe steering column.5 Working under the facia, depress theaccelerator pedal slightly, then unclip theaccelerator cable end from the pedalextension lever (see illustration).6 At the point where the cable passesthrough into the engine bay, prise thegrommet out from the bulkhead.7 Release the cable from its clips (whereapplicable) and guide it out through theaperture in the bulkhead, into the engine bay.

Refitting8 Refit the accelerator cable by following theremoval procedure in reverse.

Adjustment9 At the throttle body, fix the position of thecable outer in its mounting bracket byinserting the metal clip in one the locatingslots, such that when the accelerator isdepressed fully, the throttle valve is held wideopen to its end stop.

5 Fuel injection systemcomponents -removal and refitting

A Warning: Observe the

!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on any component inthe fuel system.

Throttle body

Removal1 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner/throttle body air box.2 Refer to Section 9 and depressurise the fuelsystem, then disconnect the battery negativecable and position it away from the terminal.3 Disconnect the fuel supply and returnhoses from the ports on the side of the throttlebody. Note the arrows that denote thedirection of fuel flow, and mark the hosesaccordingly (see illustration).4 Unplug the wiring harness from the throttlebody at the connectors, labelling them to aidcorrect refitting later. Similarly, disconnect allvacuum hoses from the throttle body andlabel them carefully; it is essential that thehoses are reconnected to the correct vacuumports on reassembly.5 Refer to Section 4 and disconnect theaccelerator cable from the throttle body.6 Remove the through-bolts and lift the upperand lower sections of the throttle body awayfrom the inlet manifold.7 The lower section of the throttle body may beseparated from the upper section by releasingthe clips. If required, the inter-mediate flangemay be detached from the inlet manifold byremoving the nuts from the four through-bolts.

Refitting 4A8 Refitting is a reversal of removal; renew allgaskets where appropriate. Finally, check andif necessary adjust the accelerator cable.

Fuel injector

Removal9 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner housing.

4.2 Accelerator cable mountingarrangement at the throttle body

A Throttle valve spindle plateB Adjustment clip

4.5 Unclip the accelerator cable inner(arrowed) from the pedal extension lever

5.3 Throttle body fuel supply and returnhoses and ports

4A.4 Fuel system: single-point injection models

5.12 Exploded view of the throttlebody upper section and fuel injector

1 Injector retaining screw2 Protective cap3 Injector retaining cap with integral

inlet air temperature sensor4 O-ring5 injector6 Fuel pressure regulator7 Throttle body casting8 Gasket9 Fuel supply hose10 Banjo bolt11 Sealing washers

10 Refer to Section 9 and depressurlse thefuel system, then disconnect the batterynegative cable and position it away from theterminal.11 Unplug the wiring harness from theinjector at the connector(s), labelling them toaid correct refitting later.12 Remove the screw and lift off the injectorretaining cap/inlet air temperature sensorhousing (see illustration)13 Lift the injector out of the throttle body,recovering the O-ring seals. Check thein jector e lect r ica l res is tance us ing amultimeter and compare the result with theSpecifications .

Refitting

14 Refit the injector by following the removalprocedure in reverse, renewing all O-ringseals. Tighten the retaining screw to thespecified torque.

Inlet air temperature sensor15 The inlet air temperature sensor is anintegral part of the fuel injector retaining cap.Removal is as described in the previous sub-Section. Its electrical resistance may bechecked using a multimeter ( re fer toillustration 5.12).

Fuel pressure regulator16 The fuel pressure regulator componentsare matched to the upper section of thethrottle body and can only be renewed as partof a complete assembly.

Throttle valve positioning module

Removal17 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal. Removethe air cleaner/throttle body air box, withreference to Section 2.18 Refer to Section 4 and disconnect theaccelerator cable from the throttle body.19 Unplug the connector from the side of thethrottle valve positioning module.20 Remove the retaining screws and lift themodule together with the accelerator cableouter mounting bracket away from the throttlebody.

Refitting21 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Checkthat the idle switch plunger lines up with theplastic stop on the lower section of thethrottle body. If necessary, adjust the positionof the throttle valve positioning modulebracket after loosening the mounting screws.

Throttle valve potentiometer22 Refer to the relevant sub-Section andremove the throttle body. The throttle valvepotentiometer is an integral part of the lowersection of the throttle body and cannot berenewed separately.

Idle switch23 Refer to the relevant sub-Section andremove the throttle valve positioning module.The idle switch is an integral part of themodule and cannot be renewed separately.

5.30 Two coolant temperature sensors arefitted; the one colour-coded blue (arrowed)

serves the engine management system

Lambda sensor

Removal24 The lambda sensor is threaded into theexhaust pipe, at the front of the catalyst.25 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal, then unplugthe wiring harness from the lambda sensor atthe connector, located at the rear of theengine, beneath the throttle body.26 Note: As a flying lead remains connectedto the sensor after is has been disconnected,if the correct size spanner is not available, aslotted socket will be required to remove thesensor. Working under the vehicle, slackenand withdraw the sensor, taking care to avoiddamaging the sensor probe as it is removed.

Refitting27 Apply a little anti-seize grease to thesensor threads - take care to avoidcontaminating the probe tip.28 Refit the sensor to its housing, tighteningit to the correct torque. Restore the harnessconnection.

Coolant temperature sensor

Removal29 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal, then referto Chapter 3 and drain approximately onequarter of the coolant from the engine.30 The temperature sensor is located on theleft hand side of the cylinder head, under theheater coolant outlet elbow (see illustration).There are two sensors fitted; the one colourcoded blue serves the engine managementsystem, the black one produces a signal forthe instrument panel temperature gauge.31 Unplug the wiring harness from the sensorat the connector, then extract the clip and liftthe sensor from its housing, recovering the O-ring - be prepared for an amount of coolantloss.

Refitting32 Refit the sensor by reversing the removalprocedure, using a new O-ring. Refer toChapter 1 and top-up the cooling system.

Fuel system: single-point injection models 4A.5

5.40 Location of engine management system ECU and relays

1 Bosch Mono-Motronic ECU2 Multiway harness connector3 Mounting bracket

4 Fuel injection pump relay5 Inlet manifold pre-heater relay

Electronic Control Unit (ECU)

RemovalCaution: Electronic Control Units (ECUs)contain components that are sensitive tothe levels of static electricity generatedduring normal activity. Once the multiwayharness connector has been unplugged,the exposed ECU connector pins can freelyconduct stray static electricity to thesecomponents, damaging or even destroyingthem - the damage will be invisible and maynot manifest itself immediately. Expensiverepairs can be avoided by observing thefollowing basic handling rules:

a) Handle a disconnected ECU by its caseonly; do not allow fingers or tools to comeinto contact with the pins.

b) When carrying an ECU around, “ground”yourself from time to time, by touching ametal object such as an unpainted waterpipe, this will discharge any potentiallydamaging static that may have built up.

c) Do not leave the ECU unplugged from itsconnector for any longer than isabsolutely necessary.

d) Make no attempt to ‘test’ the ECU usingmultimeters or other non-dedicated testequipment.

33 The ECU is located on the enginebulkhead, beneath a water shield.

e) Only unplug the ECU multiway connectorafter the battery supply has beendisconnected.

34 Disconnect the battery negative cable and

removed and renewed separately, butd ismant l ing of the d is t r ibutor wi l l benecessary. It is therefore recommended thatthis operation is entrusted to a automotiveelectrical specialist.

Relays

Fuel pump relay40 The fuel pump relay is located on theengine bulkhead, beneath a water shield. It isthe lower of the two relays mounted on thesame bracket as the engine managementsystem ECU (see illustration).41 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.42 Remove the clips and lift off the watershield.43 Pull the relay from its socket.44 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Inlet manifold preheater relay

6

45 The manifold preheater relay is located onthe engine bulkhead, beneath a water shield.It is the upper of the two relays, mounted onthe same bracket as the engine managementsystem ECU (refer to illustration 5.40).46 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.47 Remove the clips and lift off the watershield.48 Pull the relay from its socket.49 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel filter - renewal

position it away from the terminal.35 Remove the clips and lift off the watershield.

Warning: Observe the

37 Remove the securing screws and lift the A!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on any component in

ECU away from the mounting bracket. the fuel system.

36 Release the spring clip and unplug themultiway connector from the ECU.

Refitting38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Hall effect sensor

Removal1 The fuel filter is mounted behind the fueltank, at the rear of the vehicle. Access is fromthe underside of the vehicle.

39 This sensor is an integral part of the 2 Refer to Section 9 and depressurise the fuelignition HT distributor assembly. It can be system.

3 Park the vehicle on a level surface, applythe handbrake, select first gear and chock thefront roadwheels. Raise the rear of the vehicleand support it securely on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).4 Clamp off the fuel lines using proprietaryhose clamps - do not use a G-clamp or anysimilar tool, as the flat jaws may pinch thehose and damage the walls internally (seeTool Tip).5 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect thefuel lines from either side of the filter unit (seeillustration). If the clips are of the crimp type,snip them off with cutters and replace themwith equivalent size worm drive clips uponreconnection.6 Release the fi lter retaining ring byslackening the upper clamp bolt, then lowerthe filter unit away from its mounting bracket.Note: The fuel accumulator also contains afilter element, but this has a coarse mesh andshould not require renewal except in extremecircumstances, e.g. after exposure tocontaminated fuel.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note thedirection of flow arrow marked on the side ofthe filter unit casing - this must point towardsthe engine when fitted (see illustration). 4A

A Warning: Observe the

!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on any component inthe fuel system.

General information1 The fuel lift pump and gauge sender unitare combined in one assembly, which ismounted inside the fuel tank. Access is via ahatch provided in the load space floor and itsremoval involves exposing the contents of thefuel tank to atmosphere.

A Warning: Avoid direct contact

!skin contact with fuel - wearprotective clothing and gloveswhen handling fuel system

components. Ensure that the work area iswell ventilated to prevent the build up offuel vapour.2 The line fuel pump is mounted on a bracket,at the front of the fuel tank, next to the fuelfilter.

4A.6 Fuel system: single-point injection models

6.5 Slacken the hose clips and disconnectthe fuel lines from either side of the filter

Lift pump andfuel gauge sender assembly

Removal3 It is advisable to carry out this operationwhen the fuel tank is almost empty.4 Refer to Section 9 and depressurise the fuelsystem.5 Ensure that the vehicle is parked on a levelsurface, then disconnect the battery negativecable and position it away from the terminal.6 Refer to Chapter 11 and pivot the rear seatcushion upwards and forwards.7 Slacken and withdraw the access hatchscrews and lift the hatch away from thefloorpan (see illustration).8 Unplug the wiring harness connector fromthe pump/sender unit (see illustration).9 Pad the area around the supply and return

6.7 The direction of flow arrow markingmust point towards the engine

fuel hoses with rags to absorb any split fuel,then slacken the hose clips and remove themfrom the ports at the sender unit. Make a noteof their order of connection to ensure correctrefitting later; note that the fuel return hose iscolour-coded blue (see illustration).10 Grip the slotted outer ring and turn itanticlockwise to release the pump/sender unitfrom the fuel tank aperture.

11 Carefully manoeuvre the pump/sender unitout of the fuel tank, taking care to avoiddamaging the float arm. Hold the unit abovethe level of the fuel in the tank until the excess

fuel has drained out (see illustration). Recoverthe rubber seal.12 Remove the lift pump/sender unit from thevehicle and lay it on an absorbent card or rag,in a well ventilated area (see illustration).Inspect the float at the end of the sender unitarm for punctures and fuel ingress - renew theunit if it appears damaged.13 Inspect the sender unit wiper and track:carefully clean off any dirt and debris that mayhave accumulated and look for breaks orcorrosion on the track windings.14 Inspect the rubber seal from the fuel tankaperture for signs of fatigue - renew it ifnecessary (see illustration).

Refitting

15 Refit the sender unit by following theremoval procedure in reverse, noting thefollowing points:

a) Smear the tank aperture rubber seal withclean fuel before fitting it in position.

b) Reconnect the fuel supply and returnhoses according to the notes madeduring removal.

Line fuel pump

Removal

16 The line fuel pump is mounted alongsidethe fuel accumulator, behind the fuel tank, at

7.7 Remove the access hatch screws andlift the hatch away from the floorpan

7.8 Unplug the wiring harness connectorfrom the pump/sender unit

7.9 Fuel pump connections1 Supply hose 2 Return hose

7.11 Carefully manoeuvre the pump/senderunit out of the fuel tank

7.12 Fuel pump/gauge sender unit1 Float and arm 2 Fuel pump3 Sender unit track and wiper4 Fuel return hose

7.14 Inspect the rubber seal from thefuel tank aperture for signs of fatigue -

renew it if necessary

Fuel system: single-point injection models 4A.7

7.16 Line fuel pump and accumulator unit1 Line fuel pump 2 Accumulator

the rear of the vehicle. Access is from theunderside of the vehicle (see illustration).17 Refer to Section 9 and depressurise thefuel system.18 Park the vehicle on a level surface, applythe handbrake, select first gear (manualtransmission) and chock the front roadwheels.Raise the rear of the vehicle and support itsecurely on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”).19 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect thefuel lines from either side of the pump. If theclips are of the crimp type, snip them off withcutters and replace them with equivalent sizeworm drive clips upon reconnection.20 Prise off the metal retaining clip and lowerthe pump unit away from its mountingbracket. Disconnect the wiring harness at theconnector.

Refitting21 Refitting is reversal of removal.

8 Fueltank-removal and refitting

AWarning: Observe the

!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on any component inthe fuel system.

Removal1 Before the tank can be removed, it must bedrained of as much fuel as possible. As nodrain plug is provided, it is preferable to carryout this operation with the tank almost empty.2 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal. Using ahand pump or syphon, remove any remainingfuel from the bottom of the tank.3 Refer to Section 7 and carry out thefollowing:

a) Disconnect the wiring harness from thetop of the pump sender unit at themultiway connector.

b) Disconnect the fuel supply and returnhoses from the pump/sender unit

4 Select first gear and chock the frontroadwheels. Remove the centre caps andslacken the right hand rear roadwheel bolts.

5 Raise the rear of the vehicle, support itsecurely on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”) and remove the right handrear roadwheel.6 Refer to Chapter 4C and unhook theexhaust tailbox from its mounting bracket.7 With reference to Chapter 9, detach thehandbrake cable and its mounting bracketfrom the rear axle beam.8 Refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the righthand axle beam mounting from the vehicleunderside. Support the axle on blocks toprevent straining the bushes.9 Position a trolley jack under the centre ofthe tank. Insert a block of wood between thejack head and the tank to prevent damage tothe tank surface. Raise the jack until it justtakes the weight of the tank.10 Working inside the rear right hand wheelarch, slacken and withdraw the screws thatsecure the tank filler neck to the inside of thewheel arch. Open the fuel filler flap and peelthe rubber sealing flange away from thebodywork.11 Detach the breather hoses from the fillerneck, making a note of their order of fitment.12 Remove the retaining screws from thetank securing straps, keeping one hand on thetank to steady it, as it is released from itsmountings.13 Lower the jack and tank away from theunderside of the vehicle; disconnect thecharcoal canister vent pipe from the port onthe filler neck as it is exposed. Locate theearthing strap and disconnect it from theterminal at the filler neck.14 If the tank is contaminated with sedimentor water, remove the fuel lift pump/sender unit(see Section 7 ) and swill the tank out withclean fuel.

Refitting15 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure noting the following points.

a) When lifting the tank back into positionmake sure the mounting rubbers arecorrect/y positioned and take great careto ensure that none of the hoses becometrapped between the tank and vehiclebody.

b) The large breather hose must be securedto the filler neck before the tank issecured in position.

c) Ensure that all breather pipes and hosesare correctly routed, free of kinks andsecurely held in position with theirretaining clips.

d) Reconnect the earth strap to its terminalon the filler neck.

e) Tighten the tank retaining strap bolts tothe specified torque.

f) If a new tank has been fitted, it must becoated with undersea/ before the vehicleis brought back into service.

g) On completion, refill the tank with fuel andcheck for signs of leakage prior to takingthe vehicle out on the road.

2 Refer to Section 5 and locate the fuel pumprelay. Remove the relay from its socket, thencrank the engine for a few seconds. Theengine may fire and run for a while, butcontinue cranking until it stops. The fuelinjector should have opened enough timesduring cranking to considerably reduce theline fuel pressure.3 Switch off the ignition ,then disconnect thebattery negative cable and position it awayfrom the terminal4 Place a suitable container beneath theconnection/union that is to be disconnected,and have a rag ready to soak up any escapingfuel not being caught by the container.5 Slowly loosen the connection or union nut(as applicable) to avoid a sudden release ofpressure and position the rag around theconnection to catch any fuel spray which maybe expelled. Once the pressure has beenreleased, disconnect the fuel line completelyand insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and toprevent the entry of dirt into the fuel system.

1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection systemfirst ensure that all the system wiringconnectors are securely connected and freeof corrosion. Then ensure that the fault is notdue to poor maintenance; ie, check that theair cleaner filter element is clean, the sparkplugs are in good condition and correctlygapped, the cylinder compression pressuresare correct, the ignition timing is correct and

4A.8 Fuel system: single-point injection models

the engine breather hoses are clear andundamaged, referring to Chapter 1, Chapter 2and Chapter 5B for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of theproblem the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped VW dealer for testing. Adiagnostic connector is incorporated in theengine management system wiring harness, intowhich a dedicated electronic test equipment canbe plugged. This equipment is capable of“interrogating” the engine management ECUelectronically and accessing its internal fault log.In this manner, faults can be pinpointed quicklyand simply, even if their occurrence isintermittent. Testing all the system componentsindividually in an attempt to locate the fault byelimination is a time consuming operation that isunlikely to be fruitful (particularly if the faultoccurs dynamically) and carries high risk ofdamage the ECU’s internal components.

3 Experienced home mechanics equippedwith a tachometer and an accurately-calibratedexhaust gas analyser may be able to check theexhaust gas CO content and the engine idlespeed; if these are found to be out ofspecification, then the vehicle must be taken toa suitably-equipped WV dealer for assessment.Neither the air/fuel mixture (exhaust gas COcontent) nor the engine idle speed are manuallyadjustable; incorrect test results indicate a faultwithin the fuel injection system.

with a VW dealer as more up to dateinformation may be available. If travellingabroad consul t one of the motor ingorganisations (or a similar authority) for adviceon the petrols available and their suitability foryour vehicle.

The fuel recommended by VW is given inSpecifications of this Chapter.

RON and MON are different testingstandards; RON stands for Research OctaneNumber (also written as RM), while MONstands for Motor Octane Number (also writtenas M M).

11 Unleaded petrol -general information and usage

Note: The information given in this Chapter iscorrect at the time of writing and applies onlyto petrols currently available in the UK. Check

Chapter 4 Part B:Fuel system: multi-point injection modelsContentsAccelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Air cleaner and intake system - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Air cleaner filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . see Chapter 1Fuel filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Fuel injection system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Fuel injection system adjustment - general information . . . . . . . . . . .10Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel pump and gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .7Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Degrees of difficulty

G-charger - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 1G-charger auxiliary drive belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1General fuel system checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . see Chapter 1General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 2AInlet air temperature regulation system - general information and

component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

SpecificationsFuel system dataF u e l p u m p t y p e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel pump delivery rate(minimum):Lift pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .In-line pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Regulated fuel pressure:Engine code 3F.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine code PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine idle speed:Enginecode 3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecode PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum engine speed:Enginecode 3F.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecode PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Idle exhaust gas CO content:Enginecode 3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecode PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Injector electrical resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating:

Enginecode 3F.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecode PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Torque wrench settingsThrottle body screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Lambda sensor.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel pressure regulator screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel line to fuel rail banjo bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel rail bracket to inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Electric lift pump immersed in fuel tank and electric in-linepump mounted adjacent to fuel tank

1800 cm3 /min approx. (battery voltage of 12.0 V)1250 cm3 / min approx.(battery voltage of 12.0 V)

2.5 bar (3.0 bar with regulator vac hose disconnected)1.9 bar (2.5 bar with regulator vac hose disconnected)

900 - 950 rpm850 - 950 rpm

6800 rpm6600 rpm

1.0 - 1.4 %0.4 - 1 .0 %15-20 Ohm

95 RON95 RON

Nm1050101020

Ibfft7377715

4 B

4B.2 Fuel system: multi-point injection models

1 General information andprecautions

Genera/ information1 The Digifant system is a completelyself-contained engine management system,which controls both the fuel injection andignition. This Chapter deals with the fuelinjection system components only - refer toChapter 5A for details of the ignition systemcomponents.2 The fuel injection system comprises a fueltank, an electric fuel lift pump an electric fuelline pump, a fuel filter, fuel supply and returnlines, a throttle body, a fuel rail, a fuelpressure regulator, four electronic fuelinjectors, and an Electronic Control Unit (ECU)together with its associated sensors,actuators and wiring.3 The fuel pump delivers a constant supply offuel through a cartridge filter to the fuel rail, ata slightly higher pressure than required - thefuel pressure regulator maintains constant fuelpressure to the fuel injectors and returnsexcess fuel to the tank via the return line. Thisconstant flow system also helps to reduce fueltemperature and prevents vaporisation.4 The fuel injectors are electromagneticallyoperated pintle valves, which are opened andclosed many times per second by anElectronic Control Unit (ECU). The ECUcalculates the injection timing and durationaccording to engine speed, crankshaftposition, throttle position and rate of opening,inlet air volume flow rate, inlet air temperature,coolant temperature, road speed and exhaustgas oxygen content information, receivedfrom sensors mounted on and around theengine.5 Inlet air is drawn into the engine through theair cleaner assembly, which contains arenewable paper filter element. An air flowmeter is also integrated into the air cleanerassembly. This sensor is part of the enginemanagement system and monitors engineload by measuring the volume flow rate of theinlet air entering the engine. It sends thisinformation to the ECU in the form of a varyingelectrical signal.6 On engine code 3F, the inlet airtemperature is regulated by a vacuumoperated valve mounted in the air cleaner,which blends air at an ambient temperaturewith hot air, drawn over the exhaust manifold.7 On engine code PY, inlet air is supplied tothe engine at a positive pressure by a beltdriven supercharger. The filtered air is drawninto the supercharger, where it is compressedto a maximum pressure of around 0.5 bar,depending on engine speed and load. Anintercooler, mounted in the air flow throughthe engine bay, cools the inlet air, increasingits density and maximising the amount ofoxygen entering the combustion chambers.This helps to keep combustion temperatures

down and increases engine power andtorque. An air bypass valve directs excess airback to the supercharger inlet when theengine load is low, i.e. on part throttle oroverrun.8 Idle speed control is achieved by means ofan auxiliary air valve, mounted in parallel withthe throttle body, which allows a variableamount of air to bypass the throttle disc andenter the engine. The ignition system providesidle speed stability by increasing anddecreasing the engines torque through smallalterations to the ignition timing.9 The exhaust gas oxygen content isconstantly monitored by the ECU via theLambda sensor, which is mounted in theexhaust pipe. The ECU then uses thisinformation to modify the injection timing andduration to maintain the optimum air:fuel ratio.In addition, certain models are fitted with anexhaust catalyst - see Chapter 4C for details.10 The ECU also controls the operation ofthe activated charcoal filter evaporative losssystem - refer to Chapter 4C for furtherdetails.11 It should be noted that comprehensivefault diagnosis of the engine managementsystem is only possible with dedicatedelectronic test equipment. Problems with thesystems operation should therefore bereferred to a VW dealer for assessment. Oncet h e f a u l t has been identified, theremoval/refitting sequences detailed in thefollowing Sections will then allow theappropriate component(s) to be renewed asrequired.Note: Throughout this Chapter, vehicles arefrequently referred to by their engine code,rather than by engine capacity - refer toChapter 2A for engine code listings.

Precautions

A Warning: Petrol is extremely

!flammable - great care must betaken when working on any partof the fuel system. Do not

smoke, or allow any naked flames oruncovered light bulbs near the work area.Note that gas powered domesticappliances with pilot flames, such asheaters, boilers and tumble-dryers, alsopresent a fire hazard - bear this in mind ifyou are working in an area where suchappliances are present. Always keep asuitable fire extinguisher to hand andfamiliarise yourself with its operationbefore starting work. Wear eye protectionwhen working on fuel systems and washoff any fuel spilt on bare skin immediatelywith soap and water. Note that fuel vapouris just as dangerous as liquid fuel; a vesselthat has been emptied of liquid fuel willstill contain vapour and can be potentiallyexplosive.12 Many of the operations described in thisChapter involve the disconnection of fuellines, which may cause an amount of fuelspillage. Before commencing work, refer to

the above Warning and the information inSafety First ! at the beginning of this manual.13 Residual fuel pressure always remains inthe fuel system, long after the engine hasbeen switched off. This pressure must berelieved in a controlled manner before workcan commence on any component in the fuelsystem - refer to Section 8 for details.14 When working w i t h f ue l s ys temcomponents, pay particular attention tocleanliness - dirt entering the fuel system maycause internal blockages which could lead torunning problems later.15 In the interests of personal safety andequipment protection, many of theprocedures in this Chapter suggest that thenegative cable be removed from the batteryterminal. This firstly eliminates the possibilityof accidental short circuits being caused asthe vehicle is being worked upon, andsecondly prevents damage to electroniccomponents (eg sensors, actuators, ECU’s)which are particularly sensitive to the powersurges caused by d i sconnec t i on o rreconnection of the wiring harness whilst theyare still “live”.16 It should be noted, however, that theengine management system described in thisChapter (and Chapter 5B) has a “learning”capability, that allows the system to adapt tothe engines running characterteristics as itwears wi th normal use. This “ learnt ”information is lost when the battery isdisconnected - on reconnection the systemwill then take a short period of time to “re-learn” the engines’ characteristics. This maybe manifested (temporarily) as rough idling,reduced throttle response and possibly anincrease in fuel consumption, until the systemre-adapts. The re-adaptation time will dependon how often the vehicle is used and thedriving conditions encountered.

Removal1 With reference to Chapter 1, carry out thefollowing:

a) Slacken the worm drive clips anddisconnect the air ducting from the airflow meter.

b) Disconnect the wiring harness from the airflow meter at the multiway connector.

c) Prise open the retaining clips and lift thetop cover and air flow meter from the aircleaner.Caution: The air flow meter is adelicate component - handle itcarefully.

d) Remove the air cleaner filter element.

2 Detach the cold inlet air ducting from thecowling above the radiator (see illustration)3 Detach the warm inlet air ducting from the

Fuel system: multi-point injection models 4B.3

2.2 Detach the cold inlet air ducting fromthe cowling above the radiator

shield on the exhaust manifold (see illustration)4 Remove the four retaining nuts, then lift theair cleaner out of the engine bay and recoverthe rubber mountings (see illustration). Toimprove access, detach the charcoal canistervacuum hoses, but make a careful note of theorder of fitting to ensure correct refitting.

Refitting5 Refit the air cleaner by following theremoval procedure in reverse.

General information1 The inlet air regulation system consists of atemperature controlled vacuum switch,

2.3 Detach the warm inlet air ducting fromthe shield on the exhaust manifold

mounted in the air inlet ducting, a vacuumoperated flap valve and several lengths ofinterconnecting vacuum hose. The switchsenses the temperature of the inlet air andopens when a preset lower limit is reached. Itthen directs manifold vacuum to the flap valvewhich opens, allowing warm air drawn fromaround the exhaust manifold to blend with theinlet air.

Component renewal

Temperature switch

2 Remove the screw and detach the inlet airducting from the top of the throttle body.3 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from thetemperature switch, noting their order ofconnection to ensure correct refitt ing(see illustration).4 Prise the metal retaining clip off thetemperature switch ports, then press the

3.3 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from thetemperature switch

3.4 The temperature switch (arrowed) islocated inside the throttle body inlet duct

2.4 Remove the four air cleanerretaining nuts (arrowed)

switch body inside the ducting. Recover thegaskets (see illustration).5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Flap valve6 The flap valve is removed with the aircleaner inlet ducting - remove the screw anddetach the ducting from the front of the aircleaner.

AWarning: Observe the

!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on any component inthe fuel system.

Removal1 Remove the ducting from the top of thethrottle body, as described in Section 5, toimprove access.2 Prise off the clip and disconnect theaccelerator cable inner from the throttle valvespindle plate (see illustrations).3 Remove the metal clip and extract thecable outer from the mounting bracket (seeillustration).4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the faciatrim panels from underneath the steeringcolumn.5 Depress the accelerator pedal slightly, thenunclip the accelerator cable end from thepedal extension lever.6 At the point where the cable passes

4.2a Prise off the clip . . . 4.2b . . . and disconnect the acceleratorcable inner from the throttle valve

spindle plate

4.3 Remove the metal clip and extract thecable outer from the mounting bracket

4B.4 Fuel system: multi-point injection models

4.6 Prise the cable grommetfrom the bulkhead

(arrowed) 5.4 Remove the air flow meterretaining screws (at-rowed)

5.7 Unplug the wiring harness from thepotentiometer at the connector (arrowed)

through into the engine bay, prise thegrommet from the bulkhead (see illustration).7 Release the cable from its securing clipsand guide it out through the bulkhead into theengine bay.

Refitting8 Refit the accelerator cable by following theremoval procedure in reverse.

Adjustment9 At the throttle body, fix the position of thecable outer in its mounting bracket byinserting the metal clip in one of the locatingslots, such that when the accelerator isdepressed fully, the throttle valve is held wideopen to its end stop.

Air flow meter

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.2 With reference to Section 2 and Chapter 1,remove the top cover from the air cleanerassembly.3 Unplug the harness connector from the airflow meter.4 Remove the retaining screws and detachthe meter from the air cleaner top cover -recover the seal (see illustration).Caution: Handle the air flow metercarefully - its internals are easily damaged.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew theseal if it appears damaged.

Throttle valve potentiometer(engine code 3F only)

Removal6 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.

5.11 The inlet air temperature sensor(arrowed) is an integral part of the

air flow meter

7 Unplug the harness connector from thepotentiometer (see illustration).8 Remove the retaining screws and lockingplate, then lift the potentiometer away fromthe throttle body. Recover the O-ring seal.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting thefollowing:

a) Renew the O-ring seal if it appearsdamaged.

b) Ensure that the potentiometer driveengages correctly with the throttle spindleextension.

I O On complet ion, the potent iometermust be “matched” electronically to theDigifant Electronic Control Unit (ECU). Thisoperation requires access to dedicatedelectronic test equipment, refer to a VWdealer for advice.

Inlet air temperature sensor

Removal11 The sensor is an integral part of the airflow meter and cannot be renewed separately(see illustration).

Auxiliary air valve

Removal12 The valve is mounted on a bracket belowthe inlet manifold - access is extremely limitedwith the inlet manifold in position.13 Unplug the harness connector from thevalve.14 Release the clips and disconnect the

5.17 Two coolant temperature sensors arefitted; the one colour coded blue (arrowed)

serves the engine management system

hoses from the auxiliary valve. Note theirorder of connection to aid correct refitting.15 Remove the screw and detach the valvefrom its mountings.

Refitting16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coolant temperature sensorRemoval17 The coolant temperature sensor ismounted at the left hand side of the cylinderhead, directly underneath the ignitiondistributor. Two sensors are fitted; the onecolour coded blue serves the enginemanagement system, the black one producesa signal for the instrument panel temperaturegauge (see illustration).18 Unplug the harness connector from thesensor.19 Refer to Chapter 3 and drainapproximately one quarter of the coolant fromthe engine.20 Extract the retaining clip and lift thesensor from the coolant elbow - be preparedfor coolant loss. Recover the O-ring.

Refitting21 Refit the sensor by reversing the removalprocedure, using a new O-ring. Refer toChapter 1 and top-up the cooling system.

Engine speed Hall sender22 This sensor is an integral part of theignition HT distributor assembly. It can beremoved and renewed separately, butdismantling of the distributor wil l be

Fuel system: multi-point injection models 4B.5

necessary. It is therefore recommended thatthis operation is entrusted to a automotiveelectrical specialist.

Throtte body

Removal23 Refer to Section 4 and detach theaccelerator cable from the throttle valve lever.24 Slacken the clips and detach the inlet airducting from the top of the throttle body inlet.Remove the bolts, lift off the throttle body inletelbow and recover the seal (see illustrations).25 On engine code 3F, remove the through-bolt and detach the inlet housing from the topof the throttle body. On engine code PY,remove the screws and detach the bypassvalve housing from the top of the throttlebody.26 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal, then unplugthe harness connector from the throttlepotentiometer.27 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from theports on the throttle body, noting their orderof fitment. Release the wiring harness fromthe guide clip.28 Slacken and withdraw the bolts (seeillustration), then lift the throttle body awayfrom the inlet manifold. Recover and discardthe gasket.

Refitting29 Refitting is a reversal of removal, notingthe following:

a) Use a new throttle body-to-inlet manifoldgasket.

b) Observe the correct tightening torquewhen refitting the throttle body through-bolts/screws.

c) Ensure that all vacuum hoses andelectrical connectors are refitted securely.

d) With reference to Section 4, check and ifnecessary adjust the accelerator cable.

Fuel injectors and fuel rail

AWarning: Observe the

!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on any component inthe fuel system. Ideally this

operation should be carried out when theengine is cold.

Removal30 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.31 Refer to the relevant sub-Section in thisChapter and remove the throttle body.32 Unplug the injector wiring harness at themultiway connector, which is located at theend of the fuel rail (see illustration).33 Refer to Section 8 and depressurise thefuel system.34 Disconnect the vacuum hose from theport on the top of the fuel pressure regulator(see illustration).35 Slacken the clips and disconnect thefuel supply and return hoses from the ports onthe fuel ra i l and pressure regulator

5.24a Slacken the clips and detach theinlet air ducting from the top of the

throttle body inlet

5.24b Remove the bolts, lift off the throttlebody inlet elbow . , .

5.24c . . . and recover the seal

(see illustrations). Carefully note the fittedpositions of the hoses - the supply hose iscolour-coded black and the return hose iscolour-coded with a blue band.

5.28 Slacken and withdraw thefour throttle body retaining bolts

(three arrowed, one hidden)

36 Slacken and withdraw the fuel railretaining screws, then carefully lift the fuel railaway from the inlet manifold, together with theinjectors. Recover the injector lower O-ring

5.32 Unplug the injector wiring harness atthe multiway connector

5.34 Disconnect the vacuum hose from thetop of the fuel pressure regulator

5.35a Slacken the clips and disconnectthe fuel supply hose. . .

5.35b . . . and return hose (arrowed)

4B.6 Fuel system: multi-point injection models

5.36a Slacken and withdraw the fuel railretaining screws (art-owed) . . .

5.36b . . . then carefully lift the fuel railaway from the inlet manifold,together with the injectors

5.37a Unclip both halves of the plasticshielding from the injector body

5.37b Remove the insulating shroud 5.37c Unplug the wiring harness connector 5.37d Extract the retaining clip

5.37e Prise out the injector

seals as they emerge from the manifold, ifthey work loose (see illustrations).37 To remove individual injectors from thefuel rail, proceed as follows (see illustrations):

a) Unclip both halves of the plastic shieldingfrom the injector body.

b) Remove the insulating shroud.c) Unplug the wiring harness connector.d) Extract the retaining clip.e) Prise out the injector.

38 If required, remove the fuel pressureregulator, referring to the relevant sub-Sectionfor guidance.39 Check the electrical resistance of theinjectors using a multimeter connected acrossthe injector terminals - compare the resultswith the Specifications.

5.37f Fuel rail, injector and fuel pressureregulator assembly (No 1 injector removed)1 Fuel pressure regulator 2 Fuel rail3 Fuel injectors 4 Fuel pressure test point

40 Moisten the injector O-rings with cleanengine oil, then refit the injectors to the fuelrail, ensuring that the O-ring seals arecorrectly seated and that the retaining clipsare firmly in place.

Refitting

41 Refit the injectors and fuel rail by followingthe removal procedure in reverse, noting thefollowing points:

a) Renew the injector O-ring seals if theyappear worn or damaged.

b) Ensure that the injector retaining clips aresecurely seated.

c) Check that the fuel supply and returnhoses are reconnected correctly - refer tothe colour coding describedin “Removal”.

5.37g Injector O-rings (arrowed)

d) Check that all vacuum and electricalconnections are remade correctly andsecurely.

e) On completion, check exhaustively forfuel leaks before bringing the vehicle backin to service.

Fuel pressure regulator

A Warning: Observe the

!precautions in Section 1 beforeworking on the fuel system.ideally this operation should be

carried out when the engine is cold.

Removal42 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.43 Refer to Section 8 and depressurise thefuel system.

Fuel system: multi-point injection models 4B.7

5.45 Remove the retaining screws(arrowed) and lift off the regulator body

44 Disconnect the vacuum hose from theport on the top of the fuel pressure regulator.45 Slacken the clip and disconnect the fuelsupply hose from the end of the fuel rail. Thiswill allow the majority of fuel in the regulator todrain out. Be prepared for an amount of fuelloss - position a small container and some oldrags underneath the fuel regulator housing.46 Remove the retaining screws and lift offthe regulator body, recovering the O-ring seal(see illustration).

Refitting

47 Refit the fuel pressure regulator byfollowing the removal procedure in reverse,noting the following points.

a) Renew the O-ring seals if they appearworn or damaged

b) Ensure that the regulator retaining screwsare tightened to the correct torque.

c) Refit the regulator vacuum hose securely.

Lambda sensor

Removal

48 The Lambda sensor is threaded into theexhaust pipe, at the front of the catalyst (seeillustration).49 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal, then unplugthe wiring harness from the Lambda sensor atthe connector, located at the rear of theengine, beneath the throttle body (seeillustration).50 Note: As a flying lead remains connectedto the sensor after is has been disconnected,if the correct size spanner is not available, aslotted socket will be required to remove thesensor. Working under the vehicle, slackenand withdraw the sensor, taking care to avoiddamaging the sensor probe as it is removed.

Refitting

51 Apply a little anti-seize grease to thesensor threads - take care to avoidcontaminating the probe tip.52 Refit the sensor to its housing, tighteningit to the correct torque. Restore the harnessconnection.

5.48 The Lambda sensor (arrowed) isthreaded into the exhaust pipe, at the front

of the catalyst

Electronic Control Unit (ECU)

Removal

Caution: Electronic Control Units (ECUs)contain components that are sensitive tothe levels of static electricity generatedduring normal activity. Once the multiwayharness connector has been unplugged,the exposed ECU connector pins can freelyconduct stray static electricity to thesecomponents, damaging or even destroyingthem - the damage will be invisible and maynot manifest itself immediate/y. Expensiverepairs can be avoided by observing thefollowing basic handling rules:

a) Handle a disconnected ECU by its caseonly; do not allow fingers or tools to comeinto contact with the pins.

b) When carrying an ECU around, “‘ground”yourself from time to time, by touching ametal object such as an unpainted waterpipe, this will discharge any potentiallydamaging static that may have built up.

c) Do not leave the ECU unplugged from itsconnector for any longer than isabsolutely necessary.

d) Do not ‘test’ the ECU using multimetersor other non-dedicated test equipment.

e) Only unplug the ECU connector after thebattery supply has been disconnected.

53 The ECU is located on the enginebulkhead, beneath a water shield.54 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.55 Remove the clips and lift off the watershield.56 Release the spring clip and unplug themultiway connector from the ECU.57 Remove the screws and lift the ECU awayfrom the mounting bracket (see illustration).

Refitting

58 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel pump relay59 The fuel pump relay is located on theengine bulkhead, beneath a water shield. It isthe lower of the two relays mounted on thesame bracket as the engine managementsystem ECU.

5.49 Unplug the wiring harness from theLambda sensor at the connector

(arrowed), mounted at the rear of theengine, on the side of the inlet manifold

60 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.61 Remove the clips and lift off the watershield.62 Pull the relay from its socket.63 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6 Fuel filter - renewal

Refer to the information in Chapter 4A.

7

Refer to the information in Chapter 4A.

Refer to the information in Chapter 4A.

Refer to the information in Chapter 4A.

5.57 Remove the securing screws and liftthe ECU away from the mounting bracket

4B.8 Fuel system: multi-point injection models

10.3a Idle speed adjustment screw 10.3b Exhaust CO adjustment screwlocation location

10 Fuel injection systemadjustment -general information

1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection systemfirst ensure that all the system wiringconnectors are securely connected and free ofcorrosion. Then ensure that the fault is not dueto poor maintenance; ie, check that the aircleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugsare in good condition and correctly gapped,the cylinder compression pressures arecorrect, the ignition timing is correct and theengine breather hoses are c lear andundamaged, referring to Chapter 1, Chapter 2Aand Chapter 5B for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of theproblem the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped VW dealer for testing. Adiagnostic connector is incorporated in theengine management system wiring harness,into which a dedicated electronic testequipment can be plugged. The test equipmentis capable of “interrogating” the enginemanagement system ECU electronically andaccessing its internal fault log. In this manner,faults can be pinpointed quickly and simply,even if their occurrence is intermittent. Testingall the system components individually in anattempt to locate the fault by elimination is atime consuming operation that is unlikely to befruitful (particularly i f the fault occursdynamically) and carries a high risk of damageto the ECU’s internal components.3 Experienced home mechanics equippedwith an accurate tachometer and a carefully-calibrated exhaust gas analyser may be able tocheck the exhaust gas CO content and theengine idle speed; if these are found to be outof specification, then the vehicle must be takento a suitably-equipped VW dealer forassessment. Idle speed and exhaust COadjustment screws are provided(see illustrations), but adjustment will not bepossible if the engine management system hasdetected and stored a fault in one of thefuelling or ignition system components. For thisreason, all fault codes must be erased from theengine management system memory beforethe idle speed and exhaust CO settings can be

checked and adjusted - this operation must becarried out by a WV dealer with the requiredtest equipment.Caution: inaccurate CO adjustment maycause overfuelling and the risk of seriouscatalytic converter damage.

General information1 The G-charger develops its maximumpressure at full load and so cannot be testedwith the vehicle stationary. It is recommendedthat the boost pressure is measured by a WVdealer, using a rolling road. However, if this isnot possible, the measurement may be madeas follows.2 Connect a vacuum hose T-piece in line withthe vacuum supply to the fuel pressureregulator. Route a length of vacuum hosefrom the T-piece to a pressure test gauge inthe cabin. Close the bonnet, ensuring that thevacuum hose is not trapped. Enlist the help ofan assistant to hold the gauge and read offmeasurements from the passenger seat.3 Drive the vehicle on a strip of private road(not the public highway) at full throttle insecond gear whilst simultaneously depressingthe footbrake to maintain an engine speed of4000 rpm. Have your assistant record themaximum boost pressure indicated.Caution: Do not maintain these drivingconditions for more than 10 seconds.4 Compare the measurement with that listedin the Specifications. If the boost pressure islow, check the tension of the drivebelts (asdescribed in Chapter 1) and make sure thatthere are no leaks or blockages in the inletsystem, before condemning the G-charger.

Removal

A Warning: Do not run the engine

!with the G-charger air inlet hosedisconnected; the depression atthe inlet can build up very

suddenly if the engine speed raised andthere is the risk of foreign objects beingsucked in.

10.3c Protective cap (arrowed) fitted toexhaust CO pre-catalyst sampling pipe

(not fitted to later vehicles)

Caution: Thoroughy clean around all oil pipeunions before disconnecting them, toprevent the ingress of d i r t . Storecomponents in a sealed container to preventcontamination. Cover the G-charger air inletducts to prevent debris entering and cleanusing lint-free cloths only.5 Remove the screws and lift off theG-charger cover plates.6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts (Chapter 1).7 Slacken the clips and detach the air inletand delivery ducting from the G-chargerports. Cover the open ports with plasticsheeting secured with elastic bands, toprevent the ingress of foreign material.8 Slacken and withdraw the banjo bolts at theoil supply and return unions. Recover thesealing washers and discard them - new onesmust be used on refitting. Plug the openoilways to minimise oil loss and preventcontamination.9 Slacken and withdraw the G-chargermounting bracket bolts, supporting the unit asthe last bolt is withdrawn.10 Remove the G-charger from the enginebay together with its mounting bracket andthe drivebelt pulleys.

Refitting11 Refit the G-charger by following theremoval procedure in reverse, noting thefollowing points:

a) Ensure that the air inlet ducting iscompletely free of debris, before refittingit and securing the clips.

b) Use new sealing washers whenreconnecting the oil supply and returnunions; tighten the banjo bolts to thespecified torque.

c) With reference to Chapter 1, refit andtension the auxiliary drivebelts.

12 Unleaded petrol -general information and usage

Refer to the information in the Specifica-tions at the start of this Chapter, and inChapter 4A.

Chapter 4 Part C:Emission control and exhaust systemsContentsCatalytic converter - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . .6 Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Crankcase emission system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Exhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 5Evaporative loss emission control system - General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

general information and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsTorque wrench settings Nm Ibf ftExhaust system clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Exhaust downpipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

1 G e n e r a l i n f o r m a t i o n :

Emission control systems1 All petrol engine models have the ability touse unleaded petrol and are controlled byengine management systems that are “tuned“ to give the best compromise betweendriveability, fuel consumption and exhaustemission production. In addition, a number ofsystems are fitted that help to minimise otherharmful emissions: a crankcase emission-control system that reduces the release ofpollutants from the engines lubrication systemis fitted to all models, catalytic converters thatreduce exhaust gas pollutants are fitted tomost models and an evaporative lossemission control system that reduces therelease of gaseous hydrocarbons from thefuel tank is fitted to all models.

Crankcase emission control2 To reduce the emission of unburnedhydrocarbons from the crankcase into theatmosphere, the engine is sealed and theblow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn frominside the crankcase, through a wire mesh oilseparator, into the inlet tract to be burned bythe engine during normal combustion.3 Under condi t ions of h igh mani fo lddepression (idling, deceleration) the gases willbe sucked out of the crankcase. Underconditions of low manifold depression(acceleration, full-throttle running) the gasesare forced out of the crankcase by the(relatively) higher crankcase pressure. If the

engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure(due to increased blow-by) will cause some ofthe f low to return under a l l mani fo ldconditions. On certain engines, a pressureregulating valve (mounted on the side of thecylinder head) controls the flow of gases fromthe crankcase.4 On engine code PY, the excess inlet airgenerated by the G-charger, when the engineis on part throttle or overrun, is directedthrough the camshaft cover by the bypassvalve.

Exhaust emission control5 To minimise the amount of pollutants whichescape into the atmosphere, most models arefitted with a catalytic converter in the exhaustsystem. On all models where a catalyticconverter is fitted, the fuelling system is of theclosed-loop type, in which a Lambda sensorin the exhaust system provides the enginemanagement system ECU with constantfeedback, enabling the ECU to adjust theair/fuel mixture to optimise combustion.6 The Lambda sensor has a heating elementbuilt-in that is controlled by the ECU throughthe Lambda sensor relay to quickly bring thesensor’s tip to its optimum operatingtemperature. The sensor’s tip is sensitive tooxygen and relays a voltage signal to the ECUthat varies according on the amount ofoxygen in the exhaust gas. If the inlet air/fuelmixture is too rich, the exhaust gases are lowin oxygen so the sensor sends a low-voltagesignal, the voltage rising as the mixtureweakens and the amount of oxygen rises inthe exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiencyof all major pollutants occurs if the inleta i r / fuel mixture is mainta ined at the

chemically-correct r a t i o f o r c o m p l e t ecombustion. This equates to 14.7 parts (byweight) of air to 1 part of fuel (the ‘stoichio-metric’ ratio). The sensor output voltage altersin a large step at this point, the ECU using thesignal change as a reference point andcorrecting the inlet air/fuel mixtureaccordingly by altering the fuel injector pulsewidth. Details of the Lambda sensor removaland refitting are given in Chapter 4A or B asapplicable .

Evaporative emission control4 C

7 To minimise the escape of unburned .hydrocarbons into the atmosphere, anevaporative loss emission control system isfitted to all petrol models. The fuel tank fillercap is sealed and a charcoal canister ismounted underneath the front right-hand wingto absorb the vapour released from the fuelcontained in the fuel tank. It stores them untilthey can be drawn from the canister via thepurge valve into the inlet tract, where they arethen burned by the engine during normalcombustion. On single-point injection models,the purge valve is controlled electronically bythe engine management system ECU. Onmodels with multi-point injection, the purgevalve is controlled by vacuum supplied fromthe inlet manifold.8 To ensure that the engine runs correctlywhen it is cold and/or idling and to protect thecatalytic converter from the effects ofoverfuelling, the purge control valve(s) are notopened by the ECU until the engine haswarmed up, and the engine is under load; thevalve solenoid is then modulated on and off toallow the stored vapour to pass into the inlettract.

4C.2 Emission control and exhaust systems

Exhaust systems9 The exhaust system comprises the exhaustmanifold, a number of silencer units (dependingon model and specification), a catalyticconverter (where fitted), a number of mountingbrackets and a series of connecting pipes.

General information1 The evaporative loss emission controlsystem consists of the purge valve, theactivated charcoal filter canister and a seriesof connecting vacuum hoses.2 The purge valve is mounted on a bracketbehind the air cleaner housing, and thecharcoal canister is mounted on a bracketabove the right hand front wheel housing.

Purge valve3 On single-point injection models, ensurethat the ignition is switched off, then unplugthe wiring harness from the purge valve at theconnector.4 Slacken the clips and pull the vacuum(where applicable) and vapour hoses off thepurge valve ports. Make a note of theirorientation to aid refitting later. Remove thevalve from the engine bay (see illustration).5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Charcoal canister6 Open the bonnet and locate the canister inthe right hand wing (see illustration).Disconnect the vapour hoses from it andmake a note of their order of connection to aidcorrect refitting later.7 Remove the screws from the securingbracket and lift the canister out of its aperture.8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

3 Crankcase emission system- general information

The crankcase emission control systemconsists of a series of hoses that connect thecrankcase vent to the camshaft cover vent

and the air inlet, a pressure regulating valve(where applicable) and an oil separator unit.

The components of this system require noattention other than to check at regularintervals that the hose(s) are free of blockagesand undamaged.

The exhaust manifold removal is describedas part of the cylinder head dismantlingsequence; refer to Chapter 2A.

General information1 The exhaust system is made up of thedownpipe, (with integral catalytic converter,where fitted), the intermediate pipe and thetail section which contains the rear silencer.2 On all models, the system is suspendedthroughout its entire length by rubbermountings, which are secured to theunderside of the vehicle by metal brackets.

Removal3 Each exhaust section can be removedindividually or, alternatively, the completesystem can be removed as a unit.4 To remove the system or part of thesystem, first jack up the front or rear of the carand support it on axle stands (see “Jackingand vehicle support”). Alternatively positionthe car over an inspection pit or on car ramps.

Downpipe

5 Place blocks of wood under the catalyticconverter/front silencer to act as a support.Where applicable, refer to Chapter 4A or Band remove the Lambda sensor from theexhaust pipe.6 Slacken the clamp and separate the downpipe from the intermediate pipe.7 Undo the nuts and separate the downpipefrom the exhaust manifold. Recover thegasket.

2.4 Purge valve location - 2.6 Charcoal canister location -engine code 3F shown engine code 3F shown

Catalytic converter

8 Where fitted, the catalytic converter isintegral with the down pipe.

Intermediate pipe

9 Slacken the clamping ring bolts anddisengage the clamp from the intermediatepipe-to-tailpipe joint and the intermediatepipe-to-catalytic converter/front silencer joint.10 Disengage the intermediate pipe from thetailpipe and the catalytic converter/frontsilencer and remove it from underneath thevehicle.

Tailpipe

11 Slacken the clamping ring bolts anddisengage the tailpipe at the joint.12 Unhook the tailpipe from its mountingrubbers and remove it from the vehicle.

Complete system

13 Disconnect the down pipe from themanifold as described earlier in this Section.14 With the aid of an assistant, free thesystem from all its mounting rubbers andmanoeuvre it out from underneath the vehicle.

Heatshields

15 The heatshields, where fitted, are securedto the underside of the body by a combinationof nuts, bolts and clips. Each shield can beremoved once the relevant exhaust sectionhas been removed. Note that if the shield isbe ing removed to ga in access t o acomponent located behind it, in some cases itmay prove sufficient to remove the retainingnuts and/or bolts and simply lower the shield,removing the need to disturb the exhaustsystem.

Refitting16 Each section is refitted by a reverse of theremoval sequence, noting the followingpoints.

a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion havebeen removed from the flanges andrenew all necessary gaskets.

b) inspect the rubber mountings for signs ofdamage or deterioration and renew asnecessary.

c) On joints which are secured by clampingrings, apply a smear of exhaust systemjointing paste to the joint mating surfacesto ensure an air-tight seal. Tighten theclamping ring nuts evenly andprogressively to the specified torque sothat the clearance between the clamphalves is equal on either side.

d) Prior to tightening the exhaust systemfastenets, ensure that all rubbermountings are correctly located and thatthere is adequate clearance between theexhaust system and vehicle underbody.

Emission control and exhaust systems 4C.3

The catalytic converter is a reliable andsimple device which needs no maintenance initself, but there are some facts of which anowner should be aware if the converter is tofunction properly for its full service life.

a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car with acatalytic converter - the lead will coat theprecious metals reagents, reducing theirconverting efficiency and will eventuallydestroy the converter.

b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systemswell-maintained in accordance with themanufacturer’s schedule.

c) If the engine develops a misfire, do notdrive t he car at all (or at least as little aspossible) until the fault is cured.

d) Do NOT push- or tow-start the car - thiswill soak the catalytic converter inunburned fuel, causing it to overheatwhen the engine eventually starts.

e) Do NOT switch off the ignition at highengine speeds.

f) in some cases a sulphurous smell (likethat of rotten eggs) may be noticed fromthe exhaust. This is common to manycatalytic converter-equipped cars andonce the car has covered a few thousandmiles the problem should disappear. Lowquality fuel with a high sulphur contentwill exacerbate this effect.

g) The catalytic converter, used on a well-

maintained and well-driven car, shouldlast for between 50 000 and 100 000miles - if the converter is no longereffective it must be renewed.

h) Do NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -these may contain substances harmful tothe catalytic converter.

i) DO NOT continue to use the car if theengine bums oil to the extent of leaving avisible trail of blue smoke as this willcontaminate the catalyst.

j) The catalytic converter operates at veryhigh temperatures. DO NOT park the carin dry undergrowth, over long grass orpiles of dead leaves after a long run.

k) Remember that the catalytic converter isFRAGILE - do not strike it with toolsduring servicing work.

Chapter 5 Part A:Starting and charging systemsContentsAlternator - brush holder/regulator module renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Battery - testing and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 12Alternator/charging system - testing in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Auxiliary drivebelt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . .see Chapter 1 Starter motor testing - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Battery - condition check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see Chapter 1 Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Starting system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BatteryCapacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Minimum voltage (under load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

AlternatorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Output at 3000 rpm (engine speed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Regulator voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rotor winding resistance:

45amp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65amp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Starter motorMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Torque wrench settingsStarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Alternator bracket:

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12 V, negative earth

36 Ah or 45 Ah9.6Vat 110A

Bosch or Motorola30 A (45 A model) 45 A (65 A model)12.5 to 14.5 v5.0 mm

3.4 to 3.7 ohms2.8 to 3.0 ohms

13.0 mm

Nm25

Ibfft18

45 3330 22

1 General information andprecautions

General informationThe engine electrical system consists

mainly of the charging and starting systems.Because of their engine-related functions,these components are covered separatelyfrom the body electrical devices such as thelights, instruments, etc (which are covered inChapter 12). Refer to Part B of Chapter 5 forinformation on the ignition system.

The starter motor is of the pre-engagedtype incorporating an integral solenoid. Onstarting, the solenoid moves the drive pinioninto engagement with the flywheel ring gearbefore the starter motor is energised. Oncethe engine has started, a one-way clutchprevents the motor armature being driven bythe engine until the pinion disengages fromthe flywheel.

PrecautionsThe electrical system is of the 12-volt Further details of the various systems are

negative earth type. given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.

The battery may be of the low maintenanceor ‘maintenance-free’ (sealed for life) type andis charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.

While some repair procedures are given, theusual course of action is to renew thecomponent concerned. The owner whoseinterest extends beyond mere componentrenewal should obtain a copy of the ‘AutomobileElectrical & Electronic Systems Manual’,available from the publishers of this manual.

It is necessary to take extra care whenworking on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodes,transistors and integrated circuits), and toavoid the risk of personal injury. In addition tothe precautions given in Safety first!’ at thebeginning of this manual, observe thefollowing when working on the system:

Always remove rings, watches, etc beforeworking on the electrical system. Even with

5A.2 Starting and charging systems

the battery disconnected, capacitivedischarge could occur if a component’s liveterminal is earthed trough a metal objectThis could cause a shock or nasty bum.

Do not reverse the battev connections.Components such as the alternator,electronic control units, or any othercomponents having semiconductor circuitrycould & irreparably damaged.

If the engine is being started using jumpleads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative (see ‘Booster battery (jump)starting’). This also applies when connectinga battety charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals,the alternator, any electrical wiring or anytest instruments when the engine is running.

Do not run the alternator with its outputopen circuit disconnected.

Never ‘test’ for alternator output by‘flashing’ the output lead to earth.

Never use an ohmmeter or continuitytester of the type incorporating a hand-cranked generator for circuit or continuitytesting.

Always ensure that the battery negativelead is disconnected when working on theelectrical system.

Before using electric-arc weldingequipment on the car, disconnect thebattery, alternator and components such asthe engine management system electroniccontrol unit to protect them from the risk ofdamage.

Certain radio/cassette units fitted asstandard equipment by VW are equippedwith a built-in security code to deter thieves.Refer to ´Radio/cassette unit anti- theftsystem precaution’ in the Reference sectionof this manual for further information.

Removal1 The battery is located under the bonnet onthe right-hand side of the bulkhead (seeillustration).2 Loosen the battery terminal clamp nuts anddisconnect the negative lead followed by thepositive lead.3 Unscrew the bolt and remove the batteryretaining clamp.4 Lift the battery from its platform andremove it from the engine bay.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the leads are fitted to their correctterminals, and do not overtighten the leadclamp nuts or the battery retaining clamp bolt.Finally, smear a little petroleum jelly on theterminals and clamps to prevent corrosion.

2.1 The battery is located under thebonnet, on the right-hand side

of the bulkhead

Standard and low maintenancebattery - testing1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileageit is worthwhile checking the specific gravityof the electrolyte every three months todetermine the state of charge of the battery.Use a hydrometer to make the check andcompare the results with the following table.The temperatures quoted are ambient (air)temperatures.

Above 25°C Below 25°CFully charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.29070% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250Discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130

Note that the specific gravity readings assumean electrolyte temperature of 15°C (59°F); forevery 10°C (50°F) below 15°C (59°F) subtract0.007. For every 10°C (50°F) above 15°C(59°F) add 0.007.2 If the battery condition is suspect, firstcheck the specific gravity of electrolyte ineach cell. A variation of 0.040 or morebetween any cells indicates loss of electrolyteor deterioration of the internal plates.3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 ormore, the battery should be renewed. If thecell variation is satisfactory but the battery isdischarged, i t should be charged asdescribed later in this Section.

Maintenance-free battery -testing4 In cases where a ‘sealed for life’maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-upand testing of the electrolyte in each cell is notpossible. The condition of the battery cantherefore only be tested using a batterycondition indicator or a voltmeter.5 Certain models may be fitted with amaintenance-free battery, with a built-incharge condition indicator. The indicator islocated in the top of the battery casing, andindicates the condition of the battery from itscolour. If the indicator shows green, then the

battery is in a good state of charge. If theindicator turns darker, eventually to black,then the battery requires charging, asdescribed later in this Section. If the indicatorshows clear/yellow, then the electrolyte levelin the battery is too low to allow further use,and the battery should be renewed. Do notattempt to charge, load or jump start a batterywhen the indicator shows clear/yellow.6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,connect the voltmeter across the battery andcompare the result with those given in theSpecifications under ‘charge condition’. Thetest is only accurate if the battery has notbeen subjected to any kind of charge for theprevious six hours. If this is not the case,switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, thenwait four to five minutes before testing thebattery after switching off the headlights. Allother electrical circuits must be switched off,so check that the doors and tailgate are fullyshut when making the test.7 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,then the battery is discharged, whilst areading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates apartially discharged condition.8 If the battery is to be charged, remove itfrom the vehicle and charge it as describedlater in this Section.

Standard and low maintenancebattery - chargingNote: The following is intended as a guideonly. Always refer to the manufacturer’s rec-ommendations (often printed on a labelattached to the battery) before charging abattery.9 Charge the battery at a rate equivalent to10% of the battery capacity (eg for a 45 Ahbattery charge at 4.5 A) and continue tocharge the battery at this rate until no furtherrise in specific gravity is noted over a fourhour period.10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging atthe rate of 1.5 amps can be used overnight.11 Specially rapid ‘boost’ charges which areclaimed to restore the power of the batteryin 1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they

can cause serious damage to the batteryplates through overheating.12 While charging the battery, note that thetemperature of the electrolyte should neverexceed 37.8°C (100°F).

Note: The following is intended as a guideonly. Always refer to the manufacturer’s rec-ommendations (often printed on a labelattached to the battery) before charging abattery.13 This battery type takes considerablylonger to fully recharge than the standardtype, the time taken being dependent on theextent of discharge, but it can take anythingup to three days.14 A constant voltage type charger isrequired, to be set to 13.9 to 14.9 volts with a

Starting and charging systems 5A.3

5.4a Location of the brush holder/voltage regulator module

5.4b Lifting the brush holder/voltageregulator module away from the alternator

5.5 Measure the free length of thebrush contacts

charger current below 25 amps. Using thismethod, the battery should be usable withinthree hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5volts, but this is for a partially dischargedbattery and, as mentioned, full charging cantake considerably longer.15 If the battery is to be charged from a fullydischarged state (condition reading less than12.2 volts), have it recharged by your VWdealer or local automotive electrician, as thecharge rate is higher and constant supervisionduring charging is necessary.

5.6 Inspect the surfaces of the slip rings(arrowed), at the end of the alternator shaft

connections are secure. If all is so farsatisfactory, check the alternator brushes asdescribed in Section 5 . If the fault persists,the alternator should be renewed, or taken toan auto-electrician for testing and repair.3 If the alternator output is suspect eventhough the warning light functions correctly, theregulated voltage may be checked as follows.4 Connect a voltmeter across the batteryterminals and start the engine.5 Increase the engine speed until thevoltmeter reading remains steady; the readingshould be approximately 12 to 13 volts, andno more than 14 volts.6 Switch on as many electrical accessories(eg, the headlights, heated rear window andheater blower) as possible, and check that thealternator maintains the regulated voltage ataround 13 to 14 volts.7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, thefault may be due to worn brushes, weak brushsprings, a faulty voltage regulator, a faultydiode, a severed phase winding or worn ordamaged slip rings. The brushes may bechecked (see Section 5) but if the fault persists,the alternator should be renewed or taken to anauto-electrician for testing and repair.

screws, then prise open the clips and lift theplastic cover from the rear of the alternator.4 Slacken and withdraw t h e b r u s hholder/voltage regulator module screws, thenlift the module away from the alternator(see illustrations).5 Measure the free length of the brushcontacts - take the measurement from themanufacturers emblem etched on the side ofthe brush contact, to the shallowest part ofthe curved end face of the brush. Check themeasurement with the Specifications; renewthe module if the brushes are worn below theminimum limit (see illustration).6 Inspect the surfaces of the slip rings, at theend of the alternator shaft (see illustration). Ifthey appear excessively worn, burnt or pitted,then renewal must be considered; refer to anautomobile electrical system specialist forfurther guidance.7 Reassemble the alternator by following thedismantling procedure in reverse. Refit thealternator as described in Section 6.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Release the clip and pull the multi-plug fromthe rear of the alternator (see illustration).3 Loosen the auxiliary belt tensioner nut andlockscrew, then slacken the tensioner strutpivot bolt (see illustrations). Push thealternator in towards the engine and slip thedrivebelt from the alternator and crankshaftpulleys, (and G-charger pulley on G40models) - refer to auxiliary belt tensioningprocedure in Chapter 1 for greater detail.4 Remove the adjustment link nut andwasher.5 Support the alternator then remove thepivot bolt and withdraw the unit from theengine (see illustration).

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but beforefully tightening the pivot and tensionernuts/bolts, tension the auxiliary drivebelt asdescribed in Chapter 1.

6.2 Release the clip and pull the multi-plugfrom the rear of the alternator

5A.4 Starting and charging systems

6.3a Auxiliary belt tensioner nut and 6.3b Loosening the tensioner strutlockscrew (arrowed) pivot bolt

7 Starting system - testing

Note: Refer to the precautions given in ‘Safetyfirst!’ and in Section 1 of this Chapter beforestarting work. Take great care to avoid causingshort circuits by accidentally touching thebodywork or other components with ‘live’ wiring.1 If the starter motor fails to operate when thekey is turned to the correct position, thefollowing possible causes may be to blame.

a) The battery is faulty.b) The electrical connections between the

switch, solenoid, battery and startermotor are somewhere failing to pass thenecessary current from the batterythrough the starter to earth.

c) The solenoid is faulty.d) The starter motor is mechanically or

electrically defective.

2 To check the battery, switch on theheadlights. If they dim after a few seconds,this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 3 ) or renew the battery.If the headlights glow brightly, operate theignition switch and observe the lights. If theydim, then this indicates that current isreaching the starter motor, therefore the faultmust lie in the starter motor. If the lightscontinue to glow brightly (and no clickingsound can be heard from the starter motorsolenoid), this indicates that there is a fault inthe circuit or solenoid - see followingparagraphs. If the starter motor turns slowlywhen operated, but the battery is in goodcondition, then this indicates that either thestarter motor is faulty, or there is considerableresistance somewhere in the circuit.3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected,disconnect the battery leads (including theearth connection to the body), the starter/solenoid wiring and the engine/transmissionearth strap. Thoroughly clean the connections,and reconnect the leads and wiring, then use avoltmeter or test lamp to check that full batteryvoltage is available at the battery positive leadconnection to the solenoid, and that the earthis sound. Smear petroleum jelly around thebattery terminals to prevent corrosion -

corroded connections are amongst the mostfrequent causes of electrical system faults.4 If the battery and all connections are in goodcondition, check the circuit by disconnectingthe wire from the solenoid blade terminal.Connect a voltmeter or test lamp between thewire end and a good earth (such as the batterynegative terminal), and check that the wire islive when the ignition switch is turned to the‘start’ position. If it is, then the circuit is sound- if not the circuit wiring can be checked asdescribed in Chapter 12.5 The solenoid contacts can be checked byconnecting a voltmeter or test lamp betweenthe battery positive feed connection on thestarter side of the solenoid, and earth. With theignition switch turned to the ‘start’ position,there should be a reading or lighted bulb, asapplicable. If not, the solenoid is faulty andshould be renewed.6 If the circuit and solenoid are provedsound, the fault must lie in the starter motor -remove it (see Section 9 ), and have thebrushes and motor windings checked by anautomotive electrical specialist. Check on theavailability and cost of spares beforeconsider ing having the star ter motoroverhauled, as it may prove more economicalto obtain a new or exchange motor.

8 Starter motor testing -general information

If the starter motor is suspect, it should beremoved and taken to an auto-electrician forassessment. In the majority of cases, newstarter motor brushes can be fitted at areasonable cost. However, check the cost ofrepairs first as it may prove more economicalto purchase a new or exchange motor.

9 Starter motor -removal and refitting

Removal1 To improve access, remove the air cleanerwith reference to Chapter 4A or B as applicable.

6.5 Removing the alternatorupper pivot bolt

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 Identify the wiring for position thendisconnect it from the solenoid.4 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Apply the handbrake.5 Unscrew the bolt securing the exhaust pipeto the support strap beneath the starter.6 Where applicable unscrew the nuts andbolts and remove the support bracket fromthe cylinder block.7 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts,then unbolt the exhaust bracket and withdrawthe starter motor (see illustrations).

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tightenthe bolts to the specified torque. Where asupport bracket is fitted, do not fully tightenthe nuts and bolts until the bracket is correctlylocated and free of any tension.

9.7a Starter motor retaining bolts,showing exhaust bracket location

9.7b Removing the starter motor

Chapter 5 Part B:Ignition systemsContentsDistributor - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . .General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .HT Coil - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . , . . . . . . . .Ignition system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ignition system - check . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......... .see Chapter 1

. . . . . . . . . 4 ignition timing - adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

. . . . . . . . . 1 Knock sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

. . . . . . . . . 3 Rotor arm - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

. . . . . . . . . 2 Spark plugs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .-

.see Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsGeneralType:

Enginecodes AAU,AAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecodes3F,PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ignition coilPrimary winding resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DistributorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rotor arm resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ignition timing:

Basic setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SensorsCoolant sensor resistance:

At 9O°C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .At 50°C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Spark plugsRefer to Chapter 1

Torque wrench settingsSpark plugs:

Engine code AAU, AAV, 3F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Enginecode PY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Knock sensor bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Distributor clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bosch Mono-MotronicDigifant

0.5 - 1.2 Ohm3000 - 4000 ohm

Breakerless, incorporating Hall sender.600- 1400 ohmControlled by engine management system

5 ± 1° BTDCControlled by engine management system

220 - 280 ohm700 - 900 ohm

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5B.2 Ignition systems

1 The Bosch Mono-Motronic and Digifantsystems are self-contained enginemanagement systems, which control both thefuel injection and ignition. This Chapter dealswith the ignition system components only -refer to Chapter 4A or B for details of the fuelinjection system components.2 The ignition system comprises four sparkplugs, five HT leads, the distributor, anelectronic ignition coil, and an ElectronicContro l Uni t (ECU) together wi th i tsassociated sensors, actuators and wiring. Thecomponent layout varies from system tosystem but the basic operation is the same forall models.3 The operation is as follows: the ECUsupplies a voltage to the input stage of theignition coil which causes the primarywindings in the coil to be energised. As theengine rotates, the ECU is triggered tointerrupt the coil primary supply voltage bythe distributor-mounted Hall sender. Thisresults in the collapse of a primary magneticfield, which then induces a much largervoltage in the secondary coil, called the HTvoltage. This voltage is directed by thedistributor, rotor arm and HT leads, to thespark plug in the cylinder on its ignitionstroke. The spark plug electrodes form a gapsmall enough for the HT voltage to arc across,and the resulting spark ignites the fuel/airmixture in the cylinder. The timing of thissequence of events is critical and is regulatedsolely by the ECU. The basic ignition settingcan be adjusted by turning the distributorbody on its mountings - refer to Section 5 forgreater detail.4 The ECU calculates and controls theignition timing and dwell angle primarilyaccording to engine speed, crankshaftposition and inlet air volume flow rateinformation, received from sensors mountedon and around the engine. Other parametersthat affect ignition timing are throttle positionand rate of opening, inlet air temperature,coolant temperature and on certain systems,engine knock. Again, these are monitored viasensors mounted on the engine.5 On systems where knock control isemployed, the knock sensor is mounted onthe cylinder block - this has the ability todetect engine pre-ignition (or ‘pinking’) beforeperformance is affected or engine damage iscaused. If pre-ignition occurs, the ECUretards the ignition timing of the cylinder thatis pre-igniting in steps until the pre-ignitionceases. The ECU then advances the ignitiontiming of that cylinder in steps until it isrestored to normal, or until pre-ignition occursagain.6 Idle speed control is achieved partly by anelectronic throttle valve positioning module (orauxiliary air valve, depending on system type -

see Chapter 4A or B for details) and partly bythe ignition system, which gives fine control ofthe idle speed by altering the ignition timing.7 On certain systems, the ECU has the abilityto perform multiple ignition cycles during coldstarting. During cranking, each spark plugfires several times per ignition stroke, until theengine starts. This greatly improves theengines cold starting performance.8 It should be noted that comprehensive faultdiagnosis of all the engine managementsystems described in this Chapter is onlypossible with dedicated electronic testequipment. Problems with the systemsoperation that cannot be pinpointed byfollowing the basic guidelines in Section 2should therefore be referred to a VW dealerfor assessment. Once the fault has beenidentified, the removal/refitting sequencesdetailed in the following Sections will thenallow the appropriate component(s) torenewed as required.Note: Throughout this Chapter, vehicles arefrequently referred to by their engine code,rather than by engine capacity - refer toChapter 2A for engine code listings.

Warning: Extreme care must be takenwhen working on the system with theignition switched on; it is possible to get asubstantial electric shock from a vehicle’signition system. Persons with cardiacpacemaker devices should keep well clearof the ignition circuits, components andtest equipment. Always switch off theignition before disconnecting orconnecting any component and whenusing a multi-meter to check resistances.

General information1 Comprehensive fault diagnosis of all theengine management systems described inthis Chapter is only possible with dedicatedelectronic test equipment. Problems with thesystems operation that cannot be pinpointedby following the basic guidelines described inthis Section should therefore be referred to aVW dealer for assessment. Once the fault hasbeen identified, the removal/refittingsequences detailed in the following Sectionswill then allow the appropriate component(s)to renewed as required.2 Most ignition system faults are likely to bedue to loose or dirty connections or to‘tracking’ (unintentional earthing) of HTvoltage due to dirt, dampness or damagedinsulation, rather than by the failure of any ofthe system’s components. Always check allwiring thoroughly before condemning anelectrical component and work methodicallyto eliminate all other possibilities beforedeciding that a particular component is faulty.3 The old practice of checking for a spark by

holding the live end of an HT lead a shortdistance away from the engine is notrecommended. Similarly, no attempt shouldbe made to ‘diagnose’ misfires by pulling offone HT lead at a time. Not only is there a highrisk of an electric shock, but the HT coiland/or exhaust catalyst could easily bedamaged.4 Problems with the systems operation thatcannot be pinpointed by using the guidelinesin the following paragraphs should be referredto a VW dealer for assessment.

Engine will not start5 If the engine either will not turn over at all,or only turns very slowly, check the batteryand starter motor . Connect a voltmeteracross the battery terminals (meter positiveprobe to battery positive terminal), disconnectHall sender multiway connector from thedistributor, then note the voltage readingobtained while turning over the engine on thestarter for (no more than) ten seconds. If thereading obtained is less than approximately9.5 volts, first check the battery, starter motorand charging systems (see Chapter 5A).6 If the engine turns over at normal speed butwil l not start, check the HT circuit byconnecting a timing light (following themanufacturer’s instructions) and turning theengine over on the starter motor: if the lightflashes, voltage is reaching the spark plugs,so these should be checked first. If the lightdoes not f lash, check the HT leadsthemselves followed by the distributor cap,carbon brush and rotor arm using theinformation given in Chapter 1.7 If there is a spark, check the fuel system forfaults referring to the relevant part of Chapter4 for further information.8 If there is still no spark, then the problemmust lie within the engine managementsystem. In these cases, the vehicle should bereferred to a VW dealer for assessment.

Engine misfires9 An irregular misfire suggests either a looseconnection or intermittent fault on the primarycircuit, or an HT fault on the coil side of therotor arm.10 With the ignition switched off, checkcarefully through the system ensuring that allconnections are clean and securely fastened.11 Check that the HT coil, the distributor capand the HT leads are clean and dry. Check theleads themselves and the spark plugs (bysubstitution, if necessary), then check thedistributor cap, carbon brush and rotor arm asdescribed in Chapter 1.12 Regular misfiring is almost certainly due toa fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or sparkplugs. Use a timing light (paragraph 4 above)to check whether HT voltage is present at allleads.13 If HT voltage is not present on oneparticular lead, the fault will be in that lead orin the distributor cap. If HT is present on allleads, the fault will be in the spark plugs;

Ignition systems 5B.3

3.3 Ignition coil primary and secondarywinding terminals

A Primary winding terminalsB Secondary winding terminals

check and renew them if there is any doubtabout their condition.14 If no HT voltage is present, check theignition coil; its secondary windings may bebreaking down under load.

Testing1 The resistance of the coil windings may betested without removing the unit from theengine bay. Note that the measurementstaken wi l l be a f f ec ted by amb ien ttemperature, so it is good idea to conduct thistest after the engine has been running for awhile, as the coil will then be at its normaloperating temperature.2 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.3 Connect the probes of a multimeter set tothe resistance measurement function acrossthe primary winding terminals (1 and 15)(see illustration). Record the resistanceindicated. Note: On G40 mode/s with acylindrical ignition coil, the primary resistanceis measured between the ‘+’ and ´-’ terminals.4 Repeat the measurement at the secondarywinding terminals (4 and 15) (refer toillustration 3.3). Note: On G40 models with acylindrical ignition coil, the secondary

3.8 Ignition coil connectorsA HT cable connectorB LT cable multiway connector

resistance is measured between the HT leadterminal and ‘-’ terminal.5 Compare the measurements with the Spec-ifications and renew the coil if necessary.Note: This test pinpoints short or open circuitswithin the ignition coil, but does not a/lowdiagnosis of failures that occur whilst the coilis under load. Under these circumstances, thecoil should be tested by an automotiveelectrical specialist.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.2 Set the engine to TDC on cylinder No 1,referring to of Chapter 2A for guidance.3 If required, unplug all five HT leads from thedistributor cap - label them to aid refitting later(see illustration).4 Unplug the screening cap earth strap fromthe distributor body (see illustration).5 Unplug the Hall sensor cable from thedistributor body at the connector (seeillustration).

6 On all models, the ignition coil is mounted 6 Remove the screws or prise off theat the front left hand corner of the engine bay. retaining clips (as applicable), then lift off the7 Disconnect the battery negative cable and distributor cap. Check at this point that theposition it away from the terminal. centre of the rotor arm electrode is aligned8 Unplug the HT lead from the ignition coil at with the cylinder No 1 marking on thethe connector (see illustration). distributor body (see illustrations).

9 Disconnect the LT cable from the ignitioncoil at the multiway connector (refer toillustration 3.8).10 Slacken and withdraw the mountingscrews, remove the brackets and detach theearthing strap (where applicable). Remove theignition coil from the engine bay.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal

4.3 If required, unplug all five HT leadsfrom the distributor cap

4.4 Unplug the screening cap earth strapfrom the distributor body

4.5 Disconnect the Hall sender cable fromthe distributor at the multiway connector

(arrowed)

4.6a Prise off the retaining clips . . . 4.6b . . . then lift off the distributor cap

5B.4 Ignition systems

4.7a Carefully prise off the rotor arm . . .

7 Carefully prise off the rotor arm, then lift offthe moisture shield (see illustrations).8 Mark the re lat ionship between thedistributor body and the drive gear caseflange by scribing arrows on each. Slackenand remove the clamp bolts, then withdrawthe distributor body from the cylinder head.Recover the seals, shims and washers (whereapplicable), noting their order of fitment toensure correct reassembly later (seeillustrations).

Inspection9 Recover the O-ring seal from the bottom ofthe distributor and inspect them. Renew themif they appear at all worn or damaged.10 Inspect the teeth of the distributor drivegear for signs of wear or damage. Any slack inthe distributor drive train will affect ignitiontiming. Renew the distributor if the teeth of thedrive gear appear worn or chipped.

Refitting11 Before progressing, check that the engineis still set to TDC on cylinder No 1 - refer toChapter 2A for guidance.12 Install the distributor and loosely fit theclamp bolt; it may be necessary to rotate theshaft slightly to allow it to engage with thecamshaft drive gear. Rotate the distributorbody such that the alignment marks madeduring removal line up.13 The shaft is engaged at the correct anglewhen the rotor arm electrode is pointing at theNo 1 cylinder mark on the distributor body(taking into account the offset for the basicignition timing setting).14 Refit the distributor cap, pressing theretaining clips firmly into place/ tightening theretaining screws (as applicable).15 Reconnect the Hall sensor cabling to thedistributor.16 Where applicable, refit the screening cap,tightening the screws securely.17 Working from the No 1 terminal, connectthe HT leads between the spark plugs andthe distributor cap. Note that the firing order isl-3-4-2.18 Fit the HT king lead between the coil andthe centre terminal on the distributor cap.19 It will now be necessary to have theignition timing checked and if necessaryadjusted - refer to the notes in Section 5.

4.7b . . . then lift off the moisture shield 4.8a Slacken and removethe clamp bolts . . .

4.8b . . .then withdraw the distributorbody from the cylinder head . . .

Note: The engine should be at normaloperating temperature to ensure correctresultsNote: Accurate checking and setting of theignition timing is only possible using a specialinstrument connected to the flywheel TDCsender unit through the aperture in the top ofthe gearbox be//housing. This will not normallybe available to the home mechanic, so amethod using a stroboscopic timing light isdescribed below. It should be noted that thisonly provides an approximate setting - it isrecommended that the vehicle be checked bya VW dealer at the earliest opportunity.1 Disable the engine by unplugging themultiway Hall sender connector from thedistributor.2 Using a spanner or socket and wrench onthe crankshaft pulley, turn the enginemanually until the crankshaft pulley timingmark (a notch cut into the edge of the pulley)becomes visible. Clean the edge of the pulley,then highlight the timing mark with chalk or adab of white paint. On G40 models, there aretwo marks: the timing mark has a ‘Z’ stampednext to it on the crankshaft pulley (the TDCmark is indicated by an ‘0’).3 Reconnect the distributor multiway plug,then connect the stroboscopic timing light tothe eng ine i n accordance wi th themanufacturer’s instructions, so that it istriggering from the No 1 cylinder HT lead.

4.8c Recover the seals

4 Start the engine and run it at idling speed.Direct the beam from the timing light at thepointer protruding from the timing belt cover.The stroboscopic effect should ‘freeze’ themotion of the crankshaft pulley and thehighlighted timing mark. If the mark appearsto be moving back and forth, this may be dueerratic idling - check that all of the carselectrical accessories are switched off andthat the auxiliary cooling fan is not running.The engine should be at normal operatingtemperature, but the idle speed may bebecome unstable if it is particularly hot dayand the engine has been idling for some time.5 The highlighted timing mark should appearto be stationary and aligned with the pointeron the timing belt cover (see illustrations). Ifthey are not aligned, the basic ignition settingrequires adjustment.6 To adjust the basic ignition timing setting,first switch off the engine, to avoid the risk ofa getting a shock from the HT voltage. Refer

5.5a Ignition timing marks -all models except G40

Ignition systems 5B.5

5.5b Ignition timing marks - G40 models

to Section 4 and slacken the distributorretaining bolts. Note: Mark the relationshipbetween the distributor body and the cylinderhead with a dab of paint, before adjustment isattempted. This gives a reference point thatcan be reverted to if the timing setting is lost.7 Turn the distributor by a small amountclockwise to advance (or anti-clockwise toretard) the ignition timing. Tighten the boltslightly and repeat the timing light test.

Continue until the timing setting is correct,then tighten the distributor bolts to thespecified torque.

Note: This sensor is fitted to the G40 model(engine code PY) only.

Removal1 The knock sensor is located on the rear ofthe cylinder block, below the inlet manifold.2 Ensure the ignition is off, then unplug thewiring from the sensor at the connector.3 Slacken and withdraw the mounting boltand lift off the sensor.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but notethat the sensor’s operation will be affected ifits mounting bolt is not tightened to thecorrect torque.

Removal1 With reference to Section 4, remove thedistributor cap and its screening shield (whereapplicable).2 Pull the rotor arm from the end of thedistributor shaft (refer to illustration 4.7a).3 Inspect the distributor shaft contacts andclean them if necessary, using contactcleaning solution - do not use abrasive paperor a wire brush as this will accelerate contactwear.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal - ensurethat the rotor arm alignment lug engages withthe recess in the distributor shaft, beforerefitting the distributor cap.

6.1

Chapter 6ClutchContentsClutch cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Clutch components - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Release bearing and shaft - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . 5Clutch pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsGeneralType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Diameter:

Single dry plate, diaphragm spring with spring-loaded hubCable with automatic adjustment mechanism

All models except G40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 mmG 4 0 m o d e l s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 mm

Pressure plate distortion (maximum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mmPressure plate spring finger wear (depth, maximum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mmDriven plate runout (maximum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (measured 2.5 mm from outer edge)

Torque wrench settingsPressure plate to flywheel bolts:

4 speed transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 speed transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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25 1820 15

All vehicles are fitted with a cable-operated,single dry plate clutch system. The layout ofthe clutch components is conventional; theflywheel is bolted to a flange on the crankshaft,the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel withthe driven plate sandwiched between the two.The release bearing slides on a guide sleeve,over the transmission input shaft.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, effort istransmitted to the clutch release lever and shaftby means of a self-adjusting cable. The releaseshaft rotates against a return spring and pushesthe release bearing into contact with the centreof the pressure plate diaphragm spring. Thisaction causes the friction surface of thepressure plate to withdraw from the flywheel,releasing the driven plate and disconnecting thedrive to the transmission input shaft.

Removal of the clutch driven plate,pressure plate and release bearing can becarried out after removing the transmission,leaving the engine in situ.

Removal

2 To remove the cable, first fully depress theclutch pedal several times.3 Pull the release arm on the transmissionaway from the cable in order to compress theadjustment mechanism, then hold the endfitting and disconnect it from the release lever(see illustration).

1 The clutch cable self-adjusting mechanism 4 Prise the rubber grommet from the bracketis located within the cable and automatically on the transmission, then disconnect theadjusts the free play to cater for cable stretch cable from the pedal and withdraw it from theand wear of the clutch friction linings. steering gear housing (see illustration).

2.3 Disconnect the clutch cable end fitting 2.4 Pulling the clutch cable through thefrom the release lever (arrowed) hole in the steering gear

6.2 Clutch

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but notethe following points:

a) Make sure the flats on the cable are locatedcorrectly on the steering gear housing.

b) Grease the cable attachment point on thepedal, but do not grease the cable beforefitting it to the steering gear housing, asthere is a danger of grease blocking thebreather vent.

c) Check that the clutch operates correctly:depress the pedal several times, then pullthe release lever approximately 10 mmaway from the cable to check that it is free.

Removal1 Disconnect the clutch cable from therelease arm on the transmission clutchhousing and from the top of the clutch pedalwith reference to Section 3.2 Prise the clip from the end of the pedalpivot shaft.3 On left-hand drive models, withdraw thepivot shaft just enough to allow the clutchpedal to be removed from the bracket. Onright-hand drive models, the pivot shaft mustfirst be withdrawn through the brake pedal.4 Clean the pedal and pivot shaft andexamine them for wear. If the bushes are wornthey can be removed using a soft metal drift,and the new bushes installed using a vice topress then into position. Check the rubberfoot pad and the stop rubber on the bracket,and renew them if necessary.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but applya little multi-purpose grease to the pivot shaftand bushes.

Removal1 Remove the transmission as described inChapter 7.2 Mark the position of the pressure platecover with respect to the flywheel, to ensurecorrect alignment on refitting.3 Using an Allen key or hex bit, unscrew thepressure plate bolts progressively in adiagonal sequence (see illustration). I fnecessary, prevent the flywheel from rotatingby inserting a screwdriver between the starterring gear teeth and the cylinder block.4 Withdraw the pressure plate assembly andthe driven plate from the flywheel. Note thatone side of the pressure plate hub houses the

torsional damping springs and protrudes by agreater amount - this side faces the pressureplate.5 Check the condi t ion of the c lu tchcomponents as described in the followingsub-Section.

Inspection6 Examine the surfaces of the pressure plateand flywheel for signs of heavy scoring. Lightscoring is normal, but if excessive thepressure plate must be renewed and theflywheel either machined or renewed.7 Inspect the ends of the pressure platediaphragm spring fingers; look for wearcaused by contact with the release bearing. Ifthe scoring appears excessive, renew theassembly.8 Using a straight edge and feeler blade,check that the inward taper of the pressureplate does not exceed the maximum amountgiven in the Specifications (see illustration).Also check for loose riveted joints and for anycracks in the pressure plate components.9 Check the driven plate linings for wear; renewthe plate if the linings are worn to within 1.0 mm(0.04in) of the lining material securing rivets.10 Check that the driven plate dampersprings and all rivets are secure, and that thelinings are not contaminated with oil.Temporarily fit the disc to the transmissioninput shaft and check that the run-out doesnot exceed that given in the Specifications.11 I f the clutch components arecontaminated with oil, the leak should befound and rectified. The procedure for

renewing the crankshaft oil seal is describedin Chapter 2A; the procedure for renewing thetransmission input shaft oil seal is describedin Chapter 7.12 Having checked the clutch disc andpressure plate, check the release bearing withreference to Section 7.

Refitting13 Before commencing the refittingprocedure, a tool must be obtained foraligning the driven plate, otherwise difficultywill be experienced when refitting thetransmission. If the driven plate is not alignedcentrally before the pressure plate is fitted, itwill not be possible to engage thetransmission input shaft with it. I f acentralising tool is not available, a woodenmandrel may be made to the dimensionsshown (see illustration).14 Clean the friction faces of the flywheeland pressure plate, then fit the centralisingtool to the crankshaft and locate the drivenplate on it with the hub extension facingoutwards (see illustration).15 Fit the pressure plate assembly to theflywheel (using the alignment marks madeduring removal, if the original component isbeing refitted). Ensure that the friction surfacelies flat against the driven plate, then insertthe reta in ing bol ts and t ighten themprogressively in diagonal sequence to thespecified torque (see illustration).16 Refit the transmission as described inChapter 7, then reconnect the clutch cable asdescribed in Section 2.

4.3 Removing the pressure plate bolts 4.8 Checking the clutch pressure platefor taper

4.13 Clutch driven plate centralising tooldimensions

A 18.24 mm B 70.0mmC 20.0mm D 14.81 mm

4.14 Driven plate fittedwith centralising tool in place

Clutch 6.3

Four speed transmission

Removal

1 With the transmission removed, unhook thereturn spring from the release arm (seeillustration).2 Turn the release arm to move the releasebearing up the guide sleeve, then disengagethe two spring clips from the release fork andwithdraw the bearing (see illustration).3 Note how the springs and clips are fitted(see illustration), then prise the clips from therelease bearing.4 Using a splined socket, unbolt and removethe guide sleeve from the clutch housing.5 Using a narrow drift, drive the release shaftouter bush f rom the c lu tch hous ing.Alternatively prise out the bush.

6 Pull the release shaft from the inner bearingthen withdraw the shaft and arm from thehousing.

Inspection

7 Spin the release bearing by hand and checkit for roughness, then attempt to move theouter race laterally against the inner race. Ifany excessive roughness or wear is evident,renew the bearing. Do not wash the bearing insolvent if it is to be re-used.8 Check the bushes and bearing surfaces ofthe release shaft for wear and also check theguide sleeve for scoring. The inner bush maybe removed using a soft metal drift and thenew bush driven in until flush.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butlubricate all bearing surfaces with a little high-melting-point grease. Make sure that therelease shaft outer bush is correctly sealedwith the tab located in the cut-out in theclutch housing (see illustration).

5.1 Clutch release arm return spring 5.2 Release bearing in place on the release shaft arms(four speed transmission)

5.3 Release bearing showing retaining clips (arrowed) 5.9 Showing the location tab (arrowed)on the release shaft outer bush

6.4 Clutch

Five-speed transmission

Removal10 Remove the transmission as described inChapter 7. Removal and checking proceduresfor the release bearing are the same as for thefour-speed transmission, as described in theprevious sub-Section.11 Extract the circlips securing the releaselever to the release shaft, then withdraw theshaft from its bushes and the release lever(see illustration). Note that there is a masterspline on the shaft and lever allowing fitmentin only one position.

Inspection12 Check the bushes and bearing surfaces ofthe shaft for wear, and also check the releasebearing guide sleeve for scoring. The bushesmay be removed using a drift, and newbushes fitted in a similar fashion. Fit thebushes so that the oil seal will be flush withthe housing when in position.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butlubricate all bearing surfaces with a high-melting-point grease.

5.11 Exploded view of the clutch release mechanism - five speed transmission1 Clutch housing 5 Guide sleeve 8 Spring 12 Spring clip2 Seal retaining screw 9 Release shaft 13 Guide sleeve3 Bush 6 Circlip 10 Release bearing4 Bush 7 Release lever 11 Retaining clip

Chapter 7Manual transmissionContentsDrive flange oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Reversing lamp switch - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .5Gearchange mechanism - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . .4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6General description

Speedometer drive - removal and refitting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsGeneralType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oil capacity:

Transverse mounted, front wheel drive layout with integral transaxledifferential/final drive. 4 or 5 forward speeds,1 reverse speed

4 speed transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 speed transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Transmission codes

2.2 litres3.1 litresSee end of “weekly checks”

4 speed:Engine code AAU (1.05 litre, 33 kW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine code AAV (1.3 litre, 40 kW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 Speed:

AKV, AKY, CEL, CENAKY, CEL

Engine code AAU (1.05 litre, 33kW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , AHZ, AYZ, CEE, CEMEnginecodeAAV(1.3litre,40kW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CEG, 8PEnginecode3F(1.3litre,55kW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHD, CEHEnginecodePY(1.3litre,83kW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CEK, ATV

Torque wrench settingsTransmission to engine:

5 speed transmission . . . . . . . .4 speed transmission . . . . . . . . .

Gearshift lever lower housing nuts .Drive flange centre bolts . . . . . . . . .Selector rod clamp nut . . . . . . . . . .Bearing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Filler and drain plugs . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

, .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

. . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Nm Ibf ft

Description1 The manual transmission is mountedtransversely in the engine bay, bolted directlyto the engine. This layout has the advantageof providing the shortest possible drive pathto the front wheels, as well as locating thetransmission in the airflow through enginebay, optimising cooling. The unit is cased inaluminium alloy.

2 Drive from the crankshaft is transmitted viathe clutch to the transmission input shaft,which is splined to accept the clutch drivenplate.3 All forward gears are fitted withsyncromeshes. When a gear is selected, themovement of the cabin floor-mounted gearlever is communicated to the transmission bya selector rod. This in turn actuates a series ofselector forks inside the transmission whichare slotted onto the synchromesh sleeves.The sleeves, which are locked to thetransmission shafts but can slide axially bymeans of splined hubs, press baulk rings intocontact with the respective gear/pinion. The

coned surfaces between the baulk rings andthe pinion/gear act as a friction clutch, thatprogressively matches the speed of thesynchromesh s leeve (and hence thet ransmiss ion shaf t ) w i th that o f thegear/pinion. The dog teeth on the outside ofthe baulk ring prevent the synchromeshsleeve ring from meshing with the gear/pinionuntil their speeds are exactly matched; thisallows gear changes to be carried outsmoothly and greatly reduces the noise andmechanical wear caused by rapid gearchanges.4 Drive is transmitted to the differentialcrownwheel, which rotates the differential

7.2 Manual transmission

case and planetary gears, thus driving the sungears and driveshafts. The rotation of theplanetary gears on their shaft allows the innerroadwheel to rotate at a slower speed thanthe outer roadwheel during cornering.5 Transmission fluid drain and filler plugs areprovided, and a magnetic swarf collector islocated in the bottom of the transmissioncasing.6 When overhauling the transmission, dueconsideration should be given to the costsinvolved, since it is often more economical toobta in a serv ice exchange or goodsecondhand transmission rather than fit newparts to the existing transmission.7 This Chapter covers the 084 4-speed and085 5-speed transmissions.

Manual transmission overhaul -genera/ information8 The overhaul of a manual transmission is acomplex (and often expensive) engineeringtask for the DIY home mechanic to undertake,which requires access to spec ia l is tequipment. It involves the dismantling andreassembly of many small components, theprecise measurement of clearances and ifnecessary, adjustment by the selection shimsand spacers. Internal transmissioncomponents are also often difficult to obtainand in many instances, extremely expensive.Because of this, if the transmission developsa fault or becomes noisy, the best course ofaction is to have the unit overhauled by aspecialist repairer or to obtain an exchange,reconditioned unit.9 Nevertheless, it is not impossible for themore experienced mechanic to overhaul thetransmission if the special tools are availableand the job is carried out in a deliberate step-by-step manner, to ensure that nothing isoverlooked.10 The tools necessary for an overhaulinclude internal and external circlip pliers,bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a set of pinpunches, a dial test indicator and possibly ahydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdyworkbench and a vice will be required.11 During dismantling of the transmission,make careful notes of how each component isfitted to make reassembly easier andaccurate.

12 Before dismantling the transmission, it willhelp if you have some idea of where theproblem lies. Certain problems can be closelyrelated to specific areas in the transmissionwhich can make component examination andrenewal easier. Refer to “Fault finding” at theend of this manual for more information.

Note: The following paragraphs describe howto remove the transmission leaving the enginein situ. However, if work is necessary on theengine as well, the engine and transmissioncan be removed as one unit then separated onthe bench as described in Chapter 2B.

Removal1 The engine must be supported before thetransmission can be removed and it isrecommended that a hoist or lifting beam isused. As the transmission is removed fromunderneath the engine bay, first jack up thefront of the car and support it securely on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”),then apply the handbrake.Take the weight ofthe engine with the hoist or lifting beam.2 Remove the air cleaner/throttle bodyducting as described in Chapter 4A or B asapplicable.3 Disconnect the battery negative cable andposition it away from the terminal.4 Remove the windscreen washer bottle (seeChapter 12) and place it to one side.

5 Disconnect the clutch cable from thetransmission with reference to Chapter 6.6 Unscrew and remove the engine totransmission bolts that can be reached fromthe top of the transmission.7 Remove the starter motor with reference toChapter 5A.8 Loosen the clip securing the supportbracket to the coolant pipe at the rear of theengine, remove the upper starter bolt ifnecessary, and move the bracket away fromthe transmission (see illustration).9 Remove the lef t -hand f ront enginemounting bracket by unscrewing the nutssecuring it to the transmission, removing themounting bolt, and removing the bolt securingthe earth strap.10 Working beneath the car, unbolt andremove the cover plate from the clutchhousing (see illustration).11 Disconnect the wiring from the reversinglight switch (see illustration)1 2 Disconnect the inner ends of thedriveshafts from the transmission flanges withreference to Chapter 8 and tie them out of theway.13 Refer to Chapter 12 and unscrew thecollar and disconnect the speedometer cablefrom the transmission.14 Unscrew and remove the remainingengine to transmission bolts noting thelocation of the rear mounting bracket (seeillustrations)15 Unscrew the rear mounting nut andremove the bracket, or leave the mounting onthe bracket and remove the mounting bolts(see illustration).

2.8 Coolant pipe support bracket location 2.10 Clutch housing cover plate

2.11 Reversing light switch (at-rowed) 2.14a Engine rear mounting bracket 2.14b Removing the rear mountingbracket bolts

Manual transmission 7.3

2.15 Removing the rear engine mountingand bracket

2.16a Disconnecting the shift rod coupling

2.16b Removing the shift rod coupling 2.16c Shift rod adapter and bush

16 Remove the screw from the shift rodcoupling and ease the coupling from the rod.The screw threads are coated with a liquidlocking agent and if difficulty is experienced itmay be necessary to heat up the coupling witha blowlamp, however take the necessary fireprecautions. If required, remove the couplingball from the adapter (see illustrations).17 Support the transmission on a trolley jackthen withdraw it from the engine keeping it ina horizontal position until clear of the clutch. Ifnecessary use a lever to free the transmissionfrom the locating dowels.Caution: Do not allow the transmission totilt until it the input shaft is clear of theclutch driven plate, or damage to the platemay occur.18 Lower the transmission and remove itfrom under the car.

2 Detach the inner ends of the driveshaftsfrom the drive flanges with reference toChapter 8 and tie the driveshafts to one side.3 Unscrew the bolt from the centre of eachdrive flange using a bar and two temporarilyinserted bolts to hold the flange stationary.4 Place a container beneath the transmissionthen remove the drive flanges and lever outthe old oil seals. Identify the flanges side forside.

Refitting19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but firstsmear a little molybdenum disulphide basedgrease on the splines of the input shaft, andmake sure the engine rear plate is correctlylocated on the dowels. Delay fully tighteningthe mounting nuts and bolts until thetransmission is in its normal position. Adjustthe gearchange if necessary (see Section 4).

5 Clean the recesses then drive in the new oilseals using a suitable length of metal tubing.6 Smear a little grease on the lips of the oilseals, and insert the drive flanges.7 Insert the bolts and tighten them to thespecified torque using the bar and bolts tohold the flanges stationary.8 Refit the driveshafts with reference toChapter 8.9 Check and if necessary top-up thetransmission oil level then lower the car to theground.

1 Jack up the front of the car, support it onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”) and apply the handbrake.

removal, refitting andadjustment

Removal1 Jack up the front of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Apply the handbrake.2 With neutral selected, mark the shift rodand coupling in relation to each other, thenunscrew the coupling clamp and pull out theshift rod.3 Working inside the car unscrew the gearknob and remove the gaiter.4 Unscrew the nuts from the ball housingstop plate, and withdraw the completegearchange mechanism upwards into the car(see illustration). Recover the spacers.5 Dismantle the mechanism as necessaryand examine the components for wear anddamage. Renew those showing signs of wearor deterioration. Note that the selector rodbush is in two parts, and both parts aredestroyed when removing the mechanism.When fitting the new bush, ensure that thetwo plastic cups are not pushed apart.

Refitting6 Lubricate the joints and bearing surfaceswith high-melting-point grease then refit usinga reversal of the removal procedure. If a newcoupling has been fitted it will be necessary toadjust the coupling position - this is bestcarried out by a VW dealer, as a speciallyshaped template is required, but if necessarythe method described in the following sub-Section can be used in an emergency.

Adjustment7 With the car raised and supported on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”),loosen the shift rod clamp bolt.8 Have an assistant position the gear lever asshown (see illustration). Use a twist drill fordimension (a), and align the lever so that thereverse gear catch is exactly opposite therecess in the housing.9 With the transmission still in neutral, tighten 7the clamp bolt.10 Check that all gears can be selectedeasily.

7.4 Manual transmission

5.8a Disconnect the wiring . . .

Testing1 Ensure the ignition switch is ‘OFF’.2 Unplug the wiring harness from thereversing lamp switch at the connector. Theswitch is threaded into the transmissioncasing, at the front of the unit on 085 5 speedtransmissions, and at the rear of the unit on084 4 speed transmissions.3 Connect the probes of a continuity tester,or mu l t ime te r se t t o t he resistancemeasurement function, across the terminalsof the reverse lamp switch.4 The switch contacts are normally open, sowith any gear other than reverse selected, thetester/meter should indicate an open circuit.When reverse gear is then selected, theswitch contacts should close, causing thetester/meter to indicate a short circuit.

5.8b . . . and remove the reversing lightswitch (4 speed transmission shown)

5 If the switch appears to be constantly openor short circuit, or is intermittent in itsoperation, it should be renewed.

Removal6 Ensure that the ignition switch is turned tothe ‘OFF’ position.7 Unplug the wiring harness from thereversing lamp switch at the connector.8 Slacken the switch body using a ringspanner and withdraw it from the transmission.Recover the sealing ring. (see illustrations).

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal1 Trace the speedometer drive cable back tothe connection point on the differential

6.2 Speedometer drive cable locknut(arrowed) at the differential casing

housing, at the rear of the transmissioncasing.2 Unscrew the locknut and withdraw the endof the drive cable (see illustration). Wherefitted, recover the washer.3 Using a ring spanner, unscrew andwithdraw the speedometer drive guide sleeve.4 Remove the drive shaft and gear from thetransmission casing.5 Clean the gear thoroughly and examine theteeth for signs of wear or damage. Renew thecomponent if necessary, but bear in mind thatthe drive pinion inside the differential casingmay be worn as well and this can only berenewed as part of a complete transmissionoverhaul.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Chapter 8DriveshaftsContentsDriveshaft - checking and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Driveshaft rubber gaiters - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Driveshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . .2

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid (left) and tubular (right) driveshafts

with constant velocity joints at each end

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ftD r i v e s h a f t t o f l a n g e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 5 33Driveshaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 155

8

8.2 Driveshafts

1 .1 Exploded view of theright-hand driveshaft

1 Circlip2 Inner cons tan t

velocity joint3 Dished washer4 Protective cap5 Rubber gaiter6 Balance weight7 Shaft

8 Dished washer9 Circlip10 Clip11 Rubber gaiter12 Hose clip13 Outer constant

velocity joint

Drive is transmitted from the differential tothe front wheels by means of two driveshaftsof unequal length (see illustration). The right-hand driveshaft is longer than the left-hand,due to the position of the transmission. Theleft-hand driveshaft is of solid constructionand the r ight-hand one is of tubularconstruction.

Both driveshafts are splined at their outerends to enter the wheel hubs, and arethreaded and secured with large nuts. Theinner ends of the driveshafts are bolted to thetransmission drive flanges.

Constant velocity (CV) ball-and-cage typejoints are fitted to each end of the driveshaftsto ensure that the smooth and efficienttransmission of drive at all the angles possibleas the roadwheels move up and down withthe suspension, and as they turn from side toside under steering.

Note: A new driveshaft retaining nut will berequired on refitting.

Removal1 Remove the wheel trim from the relevantwheel.2 With the handbrake applied loosen thedriveshaft nut. The nut is tightened to a hightorque and a socket extension may berequired.3 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove the roadwheel.4 Using a suitable splined key, unscrew andremove the bolts securing the inner CV joint tothe final drive flange. Note the location of thespacer plates. Support the inner end of thedriveshaft on an axle stand.5 Remove the outer nut and washer, thenturn the steering on full lock and tap thedriveshaft from the splined hub using a softhead mallet. When removing the right-handdriveshaft it is advantageous to disconnectthe anti-roll bar front mountings and the trackcontrol arm from the strut. Do not move thecar on its wheels with either driveshaftremoved otherwise damage may occur to thewheel bearings (see illustration).

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but firstclean the hub and driveshaft splines and themating faces of the inner CV joint and finaldrive flange. Smear a little molybdenumbased grease on the splines. Fit a new outernut and tighten it to the specified torque withthe car lowered to the ground. Tighten the

2.5 The driveshaft inner joint

2.6a Fitting the driveshaft to the final driveflange

right-hand driveshaft make sure that thebalance weight is located with its conical sidefacing the gearbox and the opposite side inthe groove on the driveshaft. Where there isno groove, locate it on the point mark at the

inner bolts to the specified torque. On the dimension shown (see illustrations).

2.6b Location of the balance weight onthe right-hand driveshaft

Dimension a = 151.0 mm

Driveshafts 8.3

3.2 Cross-section diagram of thedriveshaft outer joint

DriveshaftRubber gaiterClipBearing race

5 Splined shaft6 Distance washer7 Dished washer

Outer rubber gaiter1 Remove the driveshaft from the car asdescribed in Section 2 and secure it in a viceequipped with soft jaws.2 Loosen the clips and release the largediameter end from the joint (see illustration).If necessary cut the clips free.3 Using a soft faced mallet drive the outerjoint from the driveshaft.4 Extract the circlip from the driveshaft andremove the spacer (if fitted) and dishedwasher noting that the concave side faces theend of the driveshaft (see illustration).5 Slide the rubber gaiter and clips from thedriveshaft. Scoop out the grease from thejoint.6 Wipe clean the driveshaft then slide on thenew rubber gaiter and clips.7 Fit the dished washer and spacer (ifapplicable) to the driveshaft and insert thecirclip in the groove.8 Locate the outer joint on the driveshaft andusing a soft faced mallet, drive it fully intoposition until the circlip is engaged.9 Insert the special grease in the joint thenlocate the gaiter and tighten the clips.10 Refit the driveshaft as described inSection 2.

Inner rubber gaiter11 Remove the driveshaft from the car asdescribed in Section 2 and secure it in a viceequipped with soft jaws.12 Extract the retaining circlip from the innerend of the driveshaft (see illustration).13 Using a small drift drive the plastic capfrom the joint housing (see illustration).14 Loosen the clips and slide the rubbergaiter away from the joint. If necessary cut theclips free.15 Support the joint over the jaws of the viceand using a soft metal drift, drive out thedriveshaft.16 Remove the dished washer from thedriveshaft noting that the concave side facesthe end of the driveshaft.17 Slide the rubber gaiter and clips from thedriveshaft. Scoop out the grease from thejoint.18 Fit the new rubber gaiter and clips to thedriveshaft followed by the dished washer,concave side facing the end of the driveshaft.19 Mount the driveshaft in the vice then driveon the joint using a suitable metal tube orsocket on the hub.20 Fit the retaining circlip in its groove.21 Insert the special grease in the joint thentap the plastic cap into position.22 With the rubber gaiter correctly located,tighten the clips.23 Refit the driveshaft as described inSection 2.

3.12 The retaining circlip on the 3.13 Removing the plastic cap from thedriveshaft inner joint inner joint housing

Checking1 If any of the checks described in Chapter 1reveal wear in any driveshaft joint, first removethe roadwheel trims and check that thedriveshaft retaining nuts are tight.2 Road test the vehicle, and listen for a metallicclicking from the front as the vehicle is drivenslowly in a circle on full lock. If evident, thisindicates wear in the outer constant velocityjoint(s). This means that the joint(s) must berenewed; reconditioning is not possible.3 If vibration, consistent with road speed, isfelt through the car when accelerating, there isa possibility of wear in the inner constantvelocity joint(s).4 The procedure for removing or renewingthe joints is described in Section 3, however ifnecessary the joints may be dismantled asfollows for examination or for cleaning wherethe gaiters have broken and the joints havebeen contaminated with dirt or water.

Cleaning

Outer joint5 With the joint removed as described inSection 3, mark the hub in relation to the cageand joint housing.6 Swivel the hub and cage and remove theballs one at a time.

4.7 Removing the cage and hub from theouter joint housing

Arrow shows rectangular aperture

8.4 Driveshafts

4.8 Removing the outer joint hubfrom the cage

7 Turn the cage until the rectangularapertures are aligned with the housing thenwithdraw the cage and hub (see illustration).8 Turn the hub and insert one of thesegments into one of the rectangularapertures, then swivel the hub from the cage(see illustration).9 Note that the joint components includingthe balls form a matched set and must only befitted to the correct side.10 Clean the components in paraffin andexamine them for wear and damage.Excessive wear will have been evident whendriving the car especially when changing fromacceleration to overrun.11 Commence reassembly by inserting halfthe amount of special grease (ie 45g) into thejoint housing.12 Fit the hub to the cage by inserting one ofthe segments into the rectangular aperture.

4.16 Removing the inner jointhub and cage

13 With the rectangular apertures alignedwith the housing, fit the hub and cage to thehousing in its original position.14 Swivel the hub and cage and insert theballs from alternate sides.

Inner joint15 Mark the hub in relation to the cage andjoint housing.16 Turn the hub and cage 90° to the housingand press out the hub and cage. Keep theballs in their correct positions during thisprocedure (see illustration).17 Extract the balls then turn the hub so thatone of the track grooves is located on the rimof the cage, and withdraw the hub (seeillustrations).18 Note that the joint components includingthe balls form a matched set and must only befitted to the correct side.19 Clean the components in paraffin and

4.17a Inner joint hub, cage and housing

examine them for wear and damage.Excessive wear will have been evident whendriving the car especially when changing fromacceleration to overrun.20 Commence reassembly by fitting the hubto the cage.21 Insert the balls into position using thespecial grease to hold them in place.22 Press the hub and cage into the housingmaking sure that the wide track spacing onthe housing will be adjacent to the narrowspacing on the hub (see illustration) whenfully assembled. Note also that the chamferon the hub splines must face the largediameter side of the housing.23 Swivel the cage ahead of the hub so thatthe balls enter their respective tracks thenalign the hub and cage with the housing.24 Check that the hub can be moved freelythrough its operating arc.

4.17b Removing the inner joint hub from the cage

Arrows indicate position of hub

4.22 Assembly of the inner joint cage and hub to the housing

“a” must be aligned with “b”

Chapter 9Braking systemContentsBrake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Brake fluid renewal

.See Chapter 1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Brake pedal - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 1Brake system and fluid leakage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Front brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Handbrake cables - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Handbrake “on” warning light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . I9

Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Rear brake pressure-regulating valve - removal, refitting anda d j u s t m e n t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7Rear brake shoe and drum check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rear brake shoes - renewal

.See Chapter 1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Stop-light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Vacuum servo unit non-return valve - removal, testing and refitting .13Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsFront brakesDisc type:

VW1 (except G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .VW2 (G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Disc thickness (new):

WV1 (except G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ,VW2 (G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Disc thickness (minimum):WV1 (except G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .VW2 (G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum disc runout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Brake pad thickness including backing (new):

VW (except G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .VW2 (G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Brake pad thickness including backing (minimum):VW1 (except G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .VW2 (G40 Coupe models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

StandardVentilated239 mm

10mm20 mm

8mm18mm0.06 mm

12.0 mm10.0 mm

7.0 mm5.0 mm

Rear drum brakesDrum diameter:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 mmMaximum diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 mm

Maximum drum out-of-round . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mmBrake shoe friction material thickness (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 mm

Torque wrench settings NmBrake servo mounting bracket to servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Master cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Servo mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Front brake caliper to fixed member . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Front brake caliper fixed member to bearing housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Front brake backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Handbrake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Rear brake backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Ibf ft151511195271544

9.2 Braking system

1 General information

The braking system is of servo-assistedhydraulic, dual circuit type with discs at thefront and self-adjusting drum brakes at therear. The hydraulic circuit is split diagonally sothat with the failure of one circuit, one frontand rear brake remain operative. A loadsensitive pressure regulator is incorporated inthe rear hydraulic circuits on some models toprevent the rear wheels locking in advance ofthe front wheels during heavy application ofthe brakes. The regulator proportions thehydraulic pressure between the front and rearbrakes according to the load being carried.

The handbrake operates on the rear wheelsonly and the lever incorporates a switch whichilluminates a warning light on the instrumentpanel when the handbrake is applied. Thesame warning light is wired into the lowhydraulic fluid switch circuit.

A Warning: Hydraulic fluid is

!poisonous; wash offimmediately in the case of skincontact, and seek medical

advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets intothe eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluidare flammable, and may ignite whenallowed into contact with hot components;when servicing any hydraulic system, it issafest to assume that the fluid ISflammable, and to take precautionsagainst the risk of fire. Hydraulic fluid isalso an effective paint stripper, and willattack plastics; if any is spilt, it should bewashed off immediately, using copiousquantities of fresh water. Finally, it ishygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from theair) - old fluid may be contaminated andunfit for further use. Excess moisturecon tent lowers the fluid’s boiling point,making it potentially dangerous. Whentopping-up or renewing the fluid, alwaysuse the recommended type, and ensurethat it comes from a freshly-opened sealedcontainer.

General1 The correct operation of any hydraulicsystem is only possible after removing all airfrom the components and circuit; this isachieved by bleeding the system.2 During the bleeding procedure, add onlyclean, unused hydraul ic f lu id o f therecommended type; never re-use fluid thathas already been bled from the system.3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluidbeing already in the system, the brakecomponents and circuit must be flushed

completely with uncontaminated, correctfluid, and new seals should be fitted to thevarious components.4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from thesystem, or air has entered because of a leak,ensure that the fault is cured beforecontinuing further.5 Park the vehicle on level ground, oralternatively (for better access to the bleedscrews) jack up the car and support on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”)and remove the wheels.6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,unions tight and bleed screws closed. Cleanany dirt from around the bleed screws.7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,and if necessary top-up to the “MAX” levelline; refit the cap loosely, and remember tomaintain the fluid level at least above the“MIN” level line throughout the procedure, orthere is a risk of air entering the system.8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourself brake bleeding kits currently availablef r o m m o t o r a c c e s s o r y s h o p s . I t i srecommended that one of these kits is usedwhenever possible, as they greatly simplifythe bleeding operation, and reduce the risk ofexpelled air and fluid being drawn back intothe system. If such a kit is not available, thebasic (two-man) method must be used, whichis described in detail below.9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle asdescribed previously and follow the kitmanufacturer’s instructions, s ince theprocedure may vary slightly according to thetype being used.10 Whichever method is used, the samesequence must be followed (paragraphs 11and 12) to ensure the removal of all air fromthe system.

Bleeding sequence11 If the system has been only partiallydisconnected, and suitable precautions weretaken to minimise fluid loss, it should only benecessary to bleed that part of the system.12 If the complete system is to be bled, thenit should be done working in the followingsequence:a) Right-hand rear brake.b) Left-hand rear brake.c) Right-hand front brake.d) Left-hand front brake.

Bleeding -basic (two-man) method13 Collect together a clean glass jar ofreasonable size, a suitable length of plastic orrubber tubing which is a tight fit over the bleedscrew, and a ring spanner to fit the screw. Thehelp of an assistant will also be required.14 Remove the dust cap from the first screwin the sequence (see illustration). Fit thespanner and tube to the screw, place theother end of the tube in the jar, and pour insufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoirfluid level is maintained at least above the

2.14 Dust cap (arrowed) over the bleedscrew on a rear brake wheel cylinder

“MIN” level line throughout the procedure.16 Have the assistant fully depress the brakepedal several times to build up pressure, thenmaintain it on the final downstroke.17 While pedal pressure is maintained,unscrew the bleed screw (approximately oneturn) and allow the compressed fluid and air toflow into the jar. The assistant should maintainpedal pressure, following it down to the floor ifnecessary, and should not release it untilinstructed to do so. When the flow stops,tighten the bleed screw again, have theassistant release the pedal slowly, andrecheck the reservoir fluid level.18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleedscrew is free from air bubbles. If the mastercylinder has been drained and refilled, and airis being bled from the first screw in thesequence, allow approximately five secondsbetween cycles for the master cylinderpassages to refill.19 When no more air bubbles appear, tightenthe bleed screw securely, remove the tubeand spanner, and refit the dust cap. Do notover-tighten the bleed screw.20 Repeat the procedure on the remainingscrews in the sequence, until all air isremoved from the system and the brake pedalfeels firm again.

BIeeding -using a one-way valve kit21 As their name implies, these kits consistof a length of tubing with a one-way valvefitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid beingdrawn back into the system; some kits includea translucent container, which can bepositioned so that the air bubbles can be seenmore easily flowing from the end of the tube.22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,which is then opened. The user returns to thedriver’s seat, depresses the brake pedal witha smooth, steady stroke, and slowly releasesit; this is repeated until the expelled fluid isclear of air bubbles.23 Note that these kits simplify work somuch that it is easy to forget the mastercylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this ismaintained at least above the “MIN” level lineat all times.

Braking system 9.3

4.4a Undo the caliper mounting boltsusing an Allen key

Bleeding - using a pressure-bleeding kit24 These kits are usually operated bypressurised air contained in a spare tyre.However, note that it will probably benecessary to reduce the pressure to a lowerlevel than normal; refer to the instructionssupplied with the kit.25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filledcontainer to the master cylinder reservoir,bleeding can be carried out simply by openingeach screw in turn (in the specified sequence),and allowing the fluid to flow out until no moreair bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.26 This method has the advantage that thelarge reservoir of fluid provides an additionalsafeguard against air being drawn into thesystem during bleeding.27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effectivewhen bleeding “difficult” systems, or whenbleeding the complete system at the time ofroutine fluid renewal.

All methods28 When bleeding is complete, and a firmpedal feel is restored, tighten the bleedscrews securely and refit their dust caps, thenwash off any spilt fluid.29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in themaster cylinder reservoir, and top-up ifnecessary (see “Weekly Checks”).30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has beenbled from the system; it will not be fit for re-use.31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If itfeels at all spongy, air must still be present inthe system, and further bleeding is required.Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a repetitionof the bleeding procedure may be due to wornmaster cylinder seals.

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, then tightening

4.4b Removing the caliper mounting bolts

it down onto a piece of polythene to obtain anairtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses canbe sealed, if required, using a proprietarybrake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unionscan be plugged (if care is taken not to allowdirt into the system) or capped immediatelythey are disconnected. Place a wad of ragunder any union that is to be disconnected, tocatch any spilt fluid.2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,unscrew the brake pipe union nut beforeremoving the spring clip which secures thehose to its mounting bracket.3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferableto obtain a “split” brake pipe spanner of thecorrect size; these are available from mostlarge motor accessory shops. Failing this, aclose-fitting open-ended spanner will berequired, though if the nuts are tight orcorroded, their flats may be rounded-off if thespanner slips. In such a case, a self-lockingwrench is often the only way to unscrew astubborn union, but it follows that the pipeand the damaged nuts must be renewed onreassembly. Always clean a union andsurrounding area before disconnecting it. Ifdisconnecting a component with more thanone union, make a careful note of theconnections before disturbing any of them.4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can beobtained cut to length and with the union nutsand end flares in place, from VW dealers. Allthat is then necessary is to bend it to shape,following the line of the original, before fittingit to the car. Alternatively, most motoraccessory shops can make up brake pipesfrom kits, but this requires very carefulmeasurement of the original, to ensure thatthe replacement is of the correct length. Thesafest answer is usually to take the original tothe shop as a pattern.5 On refitting, do not overtighten the unionnuts. Where given, only tighten the nuts to thespecified torque setting.6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses arecorrectly routed, with no kinks, and that theyare secured in the clips or brackets provided.After fitting, remove the polythene from thereservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2. Wash off any spiltfluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

4.4c Lifting the caliper from thefront brake pads

A Warning: Renew BOTH sets of

!brake pads at the same time -NEVER renew the pads on onlyone wheel, as uneven braking

may result. Note that the dust created bywear of the pads may contain asbestos,which is a health hazard. Never blow it outwith compressed air, and DO NOT inhaleany of it. An approved filtering maskshould be worn when working on thebrakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; usebrake cleaner or methylated spirit only.1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front wheels.2 Trace the brake pad wear sensor wiring(where fitted) back from the pads, anddisconnect it from the wiring connector. Notethe routing of the wiring, and free it from anyrelevant retaining clips.3 Where necessary to improve access, undothe retaining bolts and remove the airdeflector shield from the caliper.4 Using an Allen key, slacken and remove thetwo caliper mounting bolts, then lift the caliperaway from the brake pads and hub, and tie itto the suspension strut using a suitable pieceof wire (see illustrations). Do not allow the

4.5 Removing the front brake pads

9.4 Braking system

4.10a Fit the anti-rattle springs to thecarrier bracket, making sure they are

correctly located . . .

caliper to hang unsupported on the flexiblebrake hose.5 Withdraw the two brake pads from thecarrier bracket and recover the anti-rattlesprings, noting their correct fitted locations(see illustration). Note that the springs aredifferent and are not interchangeable.6 First measure the thickness of each brakepad (including the backing plate). If either padis worn at any point to the specified minimumthickness or less, all four pads must berenewed. Also, the pads should be renewed ifany are fouled with oil or grease as there is nosatisfactory way of degreasing frictionmaterial, once contaminated. If any of thebrake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouledwith oil or grease, trace and rectify the causebefore reassembly. New brake pad kits areavailable from WV dealers.7 If the brake pads are still serviceable,carefully clean them using a clean, fine wirebrush or similar, paying particular attention tothe sides and back of the metal backing.Clean out the grooves in the friction material(where applicable), and pick out any largeembedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefullyclean the pad locations in the caliperbody/mounting bracket.8 Prior to fitting the pads, check that thespacers/sleeves are free to slide easily in thecaliper body bushes, and are a reasonabletight fit. Brush the dust and dirt from thecaliper and piston, but do not inhale it, as it isinjurious to health. Inspect the dust sealaround the piston for damage, and the pistonfor evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion ordamage. I f at tent ion to any of thesecomponents is necessary, refer to Section 8.9 If new brake pads are to be fitted, thecaliper piston must be pushed back into thecylinder to make room for them. Either use a

G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable piecesof wood as levers. Provided that the mastercylinder reservoir has not been overfilled withhydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage,but keep a careful watch on the fluid levelwhile retracting the piston. If necessary, thesurplus should be syphoned off or ejectedthrough a plastic tube connected to the bleedscrew (see Section 2). Note: Do not syphonthe fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use asyringe or an old poultry baster.

4.10b . . . and install the brake pads withtheir friction material facing the disc

10 Fit the new anti-rattle springs to thecarrier bracket, making sure they are correctlypositioned and fit the pads, and ensuring thatthe friction material of each pad is against thebrake disc. Note that, where necessary, thepad with the wear sensor wire should beinstalled as the inner pad (see illustrations).11 Position the caliper over the pads, andpass the pad warning sensor wiring (wherefitted) through the caliper aperture.12 Press the caliper into position sufficientlyuntil it is possible to install the calipermounting bolts. Note: Do not exert excesspressure on the caliper in either direction, asthis will deform the pad springs, resulting innoisy operation of the brakes. Tighten themounting bolts to the specified torque setting.13 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensorwiring connectors, ensuring that the wiring iscorrectly routed. Where necessary, refit the airdeflector shield to the caliper.14 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, untilthe pads are pressed into firm contact withthe brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)pedal pressure is restored.15 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining front brake caliper.16 Refit the roadwheels, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.17 New pads will not give full brakingefficiency until they have bedded-in. Beprepared for this, and avoid hard braking asfar as possible for the first hundred miles or soafter pad renewal.

A Warning: Renew BOTH sets of

!brake shoes at the same time -NEVER renew the shoes on onlyone wheel, as uneven braking

may result. Note that the dust created bywear of the shoes may contain asbestos,which is a health hazard. Never blow it outwith compressed air, and DO NOT inhaleany of it. An approved filtering maskshould be worn when working on thebrakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; usebrake cleaner or methylated spirit only.1 Remove the brake drum (see Section 7).2 Working carefully, and taking the necessaryprecautions, remove all traces of brake dustfrom the brake drum, backplate and shoes.3 Measure the thickness of the friction materialof each brake shoe at several points; if eithershoe is worn at any point to the specifiedminimum thickness or less, all four shoes mustbe renewed as a set. The shoes should also berenewed if any are fouled with oil or grease;there is no satisfactory way of degreasingfriction material, once contaminated.4 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly,or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectifythe cause before reassembly.5 To renew the brake shoes, continue asfollows. If the brake shoes are not wornexcessively and all is well, refit the brake drumas described in Section 7.6 Note the position of the brake shoes andsprings, and mark the webs of the shoes, ifnecessary, to aid refitting.7 Using a pair of pliers, remove the shoeretainer spring cups by depressing andturning them through 90°. With the cupsremoved, lift off the springs and withdraw theretainer pins (see illustrations).8 Ease the shoes out one at a time from thelower pivot point, to release the tension of thereturn spring, then disconnect the lower returnspring from both shoes. Use a pair of pliers oran adjustable spanner to release the shoes(see illustrations).

5.7a Using pliers, remove the spring cupand spring. . .

5.7b . . . and withdraw the retainer pinfrom the rear of the backplate

Braking system 9.5

5.8a Unhook the shoes from the lowerpivot point using an adjustable spanner . . .

9 Ease the upper end of both shoes out fromtheir wheel cylinder locations, taking care notto damage the wheel cylinder seals, anddisconnect the handbrake cable from thetrailing shoe. The brake shoe assembly canthen be manoeuvred out of position and awayfrom the backplate. Do not depress the brakepedal until the brakes are reassembled andthe drum refitted; wrap a strong elastic bandaround the wheel cylinder pistons to retainthem (see illustrations).10 Make a note of the correct fitted positionsof all components then unhook the upperreturn spring, and disengage the wedge keyspring (see illustrations).11 Unhook the tensioning spring, and removethe pushrod from the trailing shoe, togetherwith the wedge key (see illustrations).12 Examine all components for signs of wearor damage and renew as necessary. Although

5.8b . . . and remove thelower return spring

linings are available separately (without shoes)from VW dealers, renewal of the shoescomplete with linings is to be preferred,unless the necessary skills and equipment areavailable to fit new linings to the old shoes.13 Peel back the rubber protective caps, andcheck the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks orother damage; check that both cylinderpistons are free to move easily. Refer toSection 9, if necessary, for information onwheel cylinder overhaul.14 Apply a little brake grease to the contactareas of the pushrod and handbrake lever.15 Hook the tensioning spring into the trailingshoe. Engage the pushrod with the oppositeend of the spring and pivot the pushrod intoposition on the trailing shoe.16 Fit the wedge key between the trailingshoe and pushrod making sure it is fitted thecorrect way around.

5.9a Note the elastic band (arrowed)used to retain pistons

17 Locate the handbrake lever on the leadingshoe in the pushrod, and fit the upper returnspring using a pair of pliers.18 Fit the spring to the wedge key and hookit onto the trailing shoe.19 Prior to installation, clean the backplate,and apply a thin smear of high-temperaturebrake grease or anti-seize compound to allthose surfaces of the backplate which bear onthe shoes, particularly the wheel cylinderpistons and lower pivot’ point. Do not allowthe lubricant to foul the friction material.20 Remove the elastic band from the wheelcylinder and offer up the shoe assembly.21 Connect the handbrake cable to thehandbrake lever and locate the top of theshoes in the wheel cylinder piston slots.22 Fit the lower return spring to the shoes,then lever the bottom of the shoes onto thebottom anchor.

5.9b Disconnecting the handbrake cablefrom the trailing shoe

5.10a Prior to dismantling, note thecorrect fitted location of the shoe

components

5.10b Wedge key and spring

5.11a Unhook the tensioning(arrowed). . .

5.11b . . . and remove the pushrod fromthe trailing shoe

9.6 Braking system

6.3 Measuring brake disc thicknesswith a micrometer

23 Tap the shoes to centralise them with thebackplate, then refit the shoe retainer pinsand springs, and secure them in position withthe spring cups.24 Refit the brake drum as described inSection 7.25 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining rear brake.26 Once both sets of rear shoes have beenrenewed, adjust the lining-to-drum clearanceby repeatedly depressing the brake pedal.27 Check and, if necessary, adjust thehandbrake as described in Section 14.28 On completion, check the hydraulic fluidlevel as described in Chapter 1.29 New shoes will not give full brakingefficiency until they have bedded in. Beprepared for this, and avoid hard braking asfar as possible for the first hundred miles or soafter shoe renewal.

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 4concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

InspectionNote: If either disc requires renewal, BOTHshould be renewed at the same time, toensure even and consistent braking. Newbrake pads should also be fitted.1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the car and support it on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 Slowly rotate the brake disc so that the fullarea of both sides can be checked; removethe brake pads if better access is required tothe inboard surface. Light scoring is normal inthe area swept by the brake pads, but if heavyscoring or cracks are found, the disc must berenewed.3 It is normal to find a lip of rust and brakedust around the disc’s perimeter; this can bescraped off if required. If, however, a lip hasformed due to excessive wear of the brakepad swept area, then the disc’s thicknessmust be measured using a micrometer (seeillustration). Take measurements at several

6.7 Undo the retaining screw and removethe front brake disc

places around the disc, at the inside andoutside of the pad swept area; if the disc hasworn at any point to the specified minimumthickness or less, the disc must be renewed.4 If the disc is thought to be warped, it can bechecked for run-out. Either use a dial gaugemounted on any convenient fixed point, whilethe disc is slowly rotated, or use feeler bladesto measure (at several points all around thedisc) the clearance between the disc and afixed point, such as the caliper mountingbracket. If the measurements obtained are atthe specified maximum or beyond, the disc isexcessively warped, and must be renewed;however, it is worth checking first that the hubbearing is in good condition (Chapters 1and/or 10). If the run-out is excessive, the discmust be renewed.5 Check the disc for cracks, especiallyaround the wheel bolt holes, and any otherwear or damage, and renew if necessary.

Removal6 Remove the brake pads as described inSection 4. If necessary unbolt the calipercarrier bracket from the swivel hub.7 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationshipof the disc to the hub, then remove the screwsecuring the brake disc to the hub, andremove the disc (see illustration). If it is tight,lightly tap its rear face with a hide or plasticmallet.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

disc and hub are clean and flat.

7.2 Lever out and remove the cap from thecentre of the brake drum

b) Align (if applicable) the marks made onremoval, and secure/y tighten the discretaining screw.

c) If a new disc has been fitted, use asuitable solvent to wipe any preservativecoating from the disc, before refitting thecaliper.

d) Refit the pads as described in Section 4.e) Refit the roadwheel, then lower the car to

the ground and tighten the roadwheelbolts to the specified torque. Oncompletion, repeatedly depress the brakepedal until normal pedal pressure returns.

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 5concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).Remove the appropriate rear wheel. Releasethe handbrake lever.2 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladedscrewdriver, carefully tap and prise the capout of the centre of the brake drum (seeillustration). Discard the cap if it is disfiguredduring removal.3 Extract the split pin and remove the lockingcap (see illustrations). Discard the split pin; anew one must be used on refitting.

7.3a Remove the split pin . . . 7.3b . . . and locking cap.. .

Braking system 9.7

7.4a . . . then unscrew the retaining nut. . . 7.4b . . . remove the toothed washer. . . 7.4c . . . and withdraw the outer bearing

4 Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut, thenslide off the toothed washer and remove theouter bearing from the centre of the drum (seeillustrations).5 It should now be possible to withdraw thebrake drum assembly from the stub axle byhand (see illustration). However it may bedifficult to remove the drum, due to thetightness of the hub bearing on the stub axle,or due to the brake shoes binding on the innercircumference of the drum. If the bearing istight, tap the periphery of the drum using ahide or plastic mallet, or use a universal puller,secured to the drum with the wheel bolts, topull it off. If the brake shoes are binding, firstcheck that the handbrake is fully released,then continue as follows.6 Check that the handbrake is fully released.7 Insert a screwdriver through one of thewheel bolt holes in the brake drum, and leverup the wedge key in order to allow the brakeshoes to retract fully (see illustration). Thebrake drum can now be withdrawn.

InspectionNote: If either drum requires renewal, BOTHshould be renewed at the same time, toensure even and consistent braking. Newbrake shoes should also be fitted.8 working careful ly , remove al l t races ofbrake dust from the drum, but avoid inhalingthe dust as it may contain asbestos and beinjurious to health.9 Clean the outside of the drum, and check itfor obvious signs of wear or damage, such ascracks around the roadwheel bolt holes;renew the drum if necessary.

7.5 . . . and remove the brake drum

10 Examine the inside of the drum. Lightscoring of the friction surface is normal, but ifheavy scoring is found, the drum must berenewed. It is usual to find a lip on the drum’sinboard edge which consists of a mixture of rustand brake dust; this should be scraped away.11 If the drum is thought to be excessivelyworn, or oval, its internal diameter must bemeasured at several points using an internalmicrometer. Take measurements in pairs, thesecond at right-angles to the first, andcompare the two, to check for signs of ovality.Provided that it does not enlarge the drum tobeyond the specified maximum diameter, itmay be possible to have the drum refinishedby skimming or grinding; if this is not possible,the drums on both sides must be renewed.Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTHdrums must be refinished to maintain aconsistent internal diameter on both sides.

Refitting12 If new brake drums are to be installed, usea suitable solvent to remove any preservativecoating that may have been applied to thefriction surfaces. If necessary, install thebearing races, inner bearing and oil seal asdescribed in Chapter 10, and thoroughlygrease the outer bearing.13 Prior to refitting, fully retract the brakeshoes by lifting up the wedge key.14 Apply a smear of grease to the drum oilseal, and carefully slide the assembly onto thestub axle.1 5 Fit the outer bearing and toothedthrustwasher, ensuring its tooth is correctlyengaged in the axle slot.

16 Refit the hub nut and moderately tighten itwhilst rotating the brake drum to settle thehub bearings in position. Gradually slackenthe hub nut until the position is found where itis just possible to move the toothed washerfrom side-to-side using a screwdriver (seeillustration). Note: On/y finger pressureshould be needed to move the washer. Do notturn or /ever the screwdriver. When the hubnut is correctly positioned, refit the lockingcap and secure the nut in position with a newsplit pin.17 Fit the cap to the centre of the brakedrum, tapping it fully into position with a lighthammer.18 Depress the footbrake several times tooperate the self-adjusting mechanism.19 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining rear brake assembly (wherenecessary), then check and if necessaryadjust the handbrake cable (see Section 14).20 On completion, refit the roadwheel(then lower the vehicle to the ground andtighten the wheel bolts to the specifiedtorque.

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, andto the warning at the beginning of Section 4concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Release the brake shoes by inserting ascrewdriver through the drum hole

7.16 Checking the adjustment of thehub bearing with a screwdriver

9.8 Braking system

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe appropriate roadwheel.2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, and thentightening it down onto a piece of polythene,to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use abrake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar toolto clamp the flexible hose.3 Clean the area around the union, thenloosen the brake hose union nut.4 Follow the procedure described in Section4 for the removal of the brake pads, howeverleave the pads in the carrier bracket.5 Unscrew the caliper from the end of thebrake hose and remove it from the vehicle.

Overhaul6 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away alltraces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling thedust, as it is injurious to health.7 Withdraw the partially ejected piston fromthe caliper body, and remove the dust seal.

8 Using a small screwdriver, extract thepiston hydraulic seal, taking great care not todamage the caliper bore (see illustration).9 Thoroughly clean all components, using onlymethylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol or cleanhydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium. Neveruse mineral-based solvents such as petrol orparaffin, as they will attack the hydraulicsystem’s rubber components. Dry thecomponents immediately, using compressedair or a clean, lint-free cloth. Use compressedair to blow clear the fluid passages.

,8.8 Extracting the piston seal - take care

not to scratch the surface of the bore

10 Withdraw the spacers/sleeves from thecaliper body bushes.11 Check all components, and renew anythat are worn or damaged. Check particularlythe cylinder bore and piston; these should berenewed (note that this means the renewal ofthe complete body assembly) if they arescratched, worn or corroded in any way.12 Similarly check the condition of thespacer sleeves and their bushes/bores; bothspacer sleeves should be undamaged and(when cleaned) a reasonably tight sliding fit intheir bores. If there is any doubt about thecondition of any component, renew it.13 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtainthe appropriate repair kit.14 Renew all rubber seals, dust covers andcaps disturbed on dismantling as a matter ofcourse.15 On reassembly, ensure that allcomponents are spotlessly clean.16 Dip the piston and the new piston (fluid)seal in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear clean fluidon the cylinder bore surface.17 Fit the new piston (fluid) seal, using onlyyour fingers (no tools) to manipulate it into thecylinder bore groove. Fit the new dust seal tothe piston, and refit the piston to the cylinderbore using a twisting motion; ensure that thepiston enters squarely into the bore. Press thepiston fully into the bore, then press the dustseal into the caliper body.18 Apply the grease supplied in the repair kit,or a good quality high-temperature brakegrease or anti-seize compound, to the spacersleeves and insert them into their bushes.

Refitting19 Screw the caliper fully onto the flexiblehose union.20 Check that the brake pads are correctlylocated in the carrier bracket, then refit thecaliper with reference to Section 4.21 Securely tighten the brake hose union nut.22 Remove the brake hose clamp orpolythene, as applicable, and bleed thehydraulic system as described in Section 2.Note that, providing the precautions describedwere taken to minimise brake fluid loss, itshould only be necessary to bleed the relevantfront brake.23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, andto the warning at the beginning of Section 5concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal1 Remove the brake drum (see Section 7).

2 Using pliers, carefully unhook the upperbrake shoe return spring, and remove it fromboth brake shoes. Pull the upper ends of theshoes away from the wheel cylinder todisengage them from the pistons.3 Minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, and thentightening it down onto a piece of polythene,to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use abrake hose clamp, G-clamp or a similar tool toclamp the flexible hose at the nearestconvenient point to the wheel cylinder.4 Wipe away all traces of dirt around thebrake pipe union at the rear of the wheelcylinder, and unscrew the union nut. Carefullyease the pipe out of the wheel cylinder, andplug or tape over its end to prevent dirt entry.Wipe off any spilt fluid immediately.5 Unscrew the two wheel cylinder retainingbolts from the rear of the backplate, andremove the cylinder, taking great care not toallow surplus hydraulic fluid to contaminatethe brake shoe linings.

Overhaul6 Brush the dirt and dust from the wheelcylinder, but take care not to inhale it.7 Pull the rubber dust seals from the ends ofthe cylinder body.8 The pistons will normally be ejected by thepressure of the coil spring, but if they are not,tap the end of the cylinder body on a piece ofwood, or apply low air pressure - eg, from afoot pump - to the hydraulic fluid union hole toeject the pistons from their bores.9 Inspect the surfaces of the pistons and theirbores in the cylinder body for scoring, orevidence of metal-to-metal contact. If evident,renew the complete wheel cylinder assembly.10 If the pistons and bores are in goodcondition, remove and discard the seals andobtain a repair kit, which will contain all thenecessary renewable items. Note the correctfitted orientation of the seals to ensure correctfitment of the new seals.11 Lubricate the new piston seals with cleanbrake fluid, and fit them onto the pistons withtheir larger diameters innermost.12 Insert the spring in the cylinder,13 Insert the pistons into the cylinder boresusing a twisting motion.14 Fit the dust seals, and check that thepistons can move freely in their bores.

Refitting15 Ensure that the backplate and wheelcylinder mating surfaces are clean, thenspread the brake shoes and manoeuvre thewheel cylinder into position.16 Insert the brake pipe, and screw in theunion nut two or three turns to ensure that thethread has started.17 Insert the two wheel cylinder retainingbolts, and tighten them to the specified torque.Now fully tighten the brake pipe union nut.18 Remove the clamp from the flexible brakehose, or the polythene from the mastercylinder reservoir (as applicable). ’

Braking system 9.9

19 Ensure that the brake shoes are correctlylocated in the cylinder pistons, then refit thebrake shoe upper return spring, using ascrewdriver to stretch the spring into position.20 Refit the brake drum (see Section 7).21 Bleed the brake hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2. Providing suitableprecautions were taken to minimise loss offluid, it should only be necessary to bleed therelevant rear brake.

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.Where necessary, to improve access to themaster cylinder, remove the air inlet duct asdescribed in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.2 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap,and syphon the hydraulic fluid from thereservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid bymouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or anold poultry baster. Alternatively, open anyconvenient bleed screw in the system, andgently pump the brake pedal to expel the fluidthrough a plastic tube connected to the screw(see Section 2). Disconnect the wiring plugfrom the brake fluid level sender unit.3 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipeunions on the side of the master cylinder, andplace absorbent rags beneath the pipe unionsto catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of thecorrect fitted position of the unions, thenunscrew the union nuts and carefully withdrawthe pipes (see illustration). Plug or tape overthe pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, tominimise the loss of brake fluid, and to preventthe entry of dirt into the system. Wash off anyspilt fluid immediately with cold water.4 Slacken and remove the two nuts andwashers securing the master cylinder to thevacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unitfrom the engine compartment. Remove the O-ring from the rear of the master cylinder anddiscard it.

Brake master cylinder locationfront of the servo unit

on the

Overhaul5 If the master cylinder is faulty, it must berenewed. Repair kits are not available fromWV dealers, so the cylinder must be treatedas a sealed unit.6 The only items which can be renewed arethe mounting seals for the fluid reservoir; ifthese show signs of deterioration, pull off thereservoir and remove the old seals. Lubricatethe new seals with clean brake fluid, andpress them into the master cylinder ports.Ease the fluid reservoir into position, and pushit fully home.

Refitting7 Remove all traces of dirt from the mastercylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, andfit a new O-ring to the groove on the mastercylinder body.8 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit,ensuring that the servo unit pushrod entersthe master cylinder bore centrally. Refit themaster cylinder mounting nuts and washers,and tighten them to the specified torque.9 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, then refitthem to the master cylinder ports and tightenthem securely.10 Refill the master cylinder reservoir withnew fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulicsystem as described in Section 2.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Working inside the car extract the clip,remove the pin and disconnect the vacuumservo pushrod from the pedal.3 Unhook the return spring from the pedal.4 Prise the clip from the end of the pedalpivot shaft.5 Withdraw the pivot shaft sufficient toremove the brake pedal.6 If necessary the pedal bracket can beremoved after removing the clutch pedal andmounting nuts and bolts.

Overhaul7 Clean the pedal and pivot shaft andexamine them for wear. If the bushes areworn, they can be removed using a soft metaldrift, and the new bushes installed using avice to press them into position. Check therubber foot pad and renew if necessary.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but applya little multi-purpose grease to the pivot shaftand bushes and check the adjustment of thebrake pedal as follows. Before refitting theservo pushrod loosen the locknut, then withthe pedal at its rest position, turn the pushrodwhile holding the clevis stationary until the

holes in the pedal and clevis are aligned witheach other. Insert the pin and tighten thelocknut. Retain the pin with its clip.9 If the clutch pedal was removed, refit it withreference to Chapter 6.

Testing1 To test the operation of the servo unit,depress the footbrake several times toexhaust the vacuum, then start the enginewhilst keeping the pedal firmly depressed. Asthe engine starts, there should be a noticeable“give” in the brake pedal as the vacuum buildsup. Allow the engine to run for at least twominutes, then switch it off. If the brake pedalis now depressed, it should feel normal, butfurther applications should result in the pedalfeeling firmer, wi th the pedal s t rokedecreasing with each application.2 If the servo does not operate as described,first inspect the servo unit check valve asdescribed in Section 13.3 If the servo unit still fails to operate satisfac-torily, the fault lies within the unit itself.Repairs to the unit are not possible - if faulty,the servo unit must be renewed.

Removal4 The vacuum servo unit is removed togetherwith the master cylinder, then dismantled onthe bench. First disconnect the batterynegative terminal. To improve access to themaster cylinder, remove the air inlet duct asdescribed in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.5 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap,and syphon the hydraulic fluid from thereservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid bymouth, as it is poisonous: use a syringe or anold poultry baster. Alternatively, open anyconvenient bleed screw in the system, andgently pump the brake pedal to expel the fluidthrough a plastic tube connected to the screw(see Section 2). Disconnect the wiring plugfrom the brake fluid level sender unit.6 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipeunions on the side of the master cylinder, andplace absorbent rags beneath the pipe unionsto catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of thecorrect fitted position of the unions, thenunscrew the union nuts and carefullywithdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipeends and master cylinder orifices, to minimisethe loss of brake fluid, and to prevent theentry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spiltfluid immediately with cold water.7 Working inside the car extract the clip,remove the pin and disconnect the vacuumservo pushrod from the pedal.8 Working in the engine compartment,carefully ease out the vacuum hose from theservo unit sealing grommet.

9.10 Braking system

9 Unscrew the nuts and remove the washerssecuring the servo unit to the bulkhead.Where applicable, note the location of theretaining plate on the upper stud. Remove theassembly from the engine compartment.1O Slacken and remove the two nuts andwashers securing the master cylinder to thevacuum servo unit, then withdraw the mastercylinder and recover the rubber O-ring.

Filter renewal11 If necessary the filter may be removed asfollows. Loosen the locknut then unscrew theclevis from the pushrod - to ensure correctrefitting note carefully the position of theclevis. Unscrew the locknut.12 Slide the protective sleeve from the servounit, then use a hooked instrument to removethe filter and damping washer.13 Clean the filter location then insert a newfilter and damping washer making sure thatthe slots of each item are offset by 180° fromeach other.14 Refit the sleeve followed by the locknutand clevis. After positioning the clevis in itspreviously noted position, tighten the locknut.

Refitting15 Remove all traces of dirt from the mastercylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, andfit a new O-ring to the groove on the mastercylinder body.16 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit,ensuring that the servo unit pushrod entersthe master cylinder bore centrally. Refit themaster cylinder mounting nuts and washers,and tighten them to the specified torque.17 Refit the assembly to the bulkhead andtighten the mounting nuts. Where applicable,make sure the location plate is located on theupper stud.18 Ease the vacuum hose back into positionin the servo unit, taking care not to displacethe sealing grommet.19 Inside the car connect the pushrod to thepedal with the pin and retain with the clip.Note: If a new servo unit has been fitted adjustthe pushrod as described in Section 11.20 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, thenrefit them to the master cylinder ports andtighten them securely.21 Refill the master cylinder reservoir with

new fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulicsystem as described in Section 2.22 Refit the air inlet duct (where removed)and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

1 The check valve is in the vacuum hose fromthe inlet manifold to the brake servo (seeillustration). If the valve is to be renewed, thecomplete hose/valve assembly should bereplaced.

Removal2 Ease the vacuum hose out of the servo unit,taking care not to displace the grommet.3 Note the routing of the hose, then slackenthe clip and disconnect the opposite end ofthe hose assembly from the manifold andremove it from the car.

Testing4 Examine the check valve and vacuum hosefor signs of damage, and renew if necessary.5 The valve may be tested by blowingthrough it in both directions, air should flowthrough the valve in one direction only; whenblown through from the servo unit end of thevalve. Renew the valve if this is not the case.6 Examine the servo unit rubber sealinggrommet for signs of damage or deterioration,and renew as necessary.

Refitting7 Ensure that the sealing grommet iscorrectly fitted to the servo unit.8 Ease the hose union into position in theservo, taking great care not to displace ordamage the grommet.9 Ensure that the hose is correctly routed,and connect it to the inlet manifold, tighteningits retaining clip securely.10 On completion, start the engine andcheck the check valve to servo uni tconnection for signs of air leaks.

1 To check the handbrake adjustment, firstapply the footbrake firmly several times toestablish correct shoe-to-drum clearance,then apply and release the handbrake severaltimes.2 Applying normal moderate pressure, pullthe handbrake lever to the fully-appliedposition, counting the number of clicks on thehandbrake ratchet mechanism. If adjustmentis correct, there should be approximately 4 to 7 clicks before the handbrake is fully applied.If this is not the case, adjust as follows.3 Remove the plastic cover from thehandbrake lever (see illustration).4 Chock the front wheels, then jack. up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).5 With the handbrake set on the 4th notch ofthe ratchet mechanism, rotate the adjustingnut until it is difficult to turn both rear wheelsby hand (see illustration). Once this is so,release the handbrake lever, and check thatthe wheels rotate f reely. Check theadjustment by applying the handbrake fully,counting the clicks from the handbrakeratchet and, if necessary, re-adjust.6 Where necessary refit the centre consolesection, then lower the car to the ground.

Removal1 Remove the plastic cover from the leverand fully release the lever.2 Where necessary remove the rear sectionof the centre console with reference toChapter 11.3 Pull back the carpet, then unscrew theadjusting nut from the front end of thehandbrake cable.4 Unscrew the mounting bolts and lift thelever from the floor at the same time slidingthe pin from the cable adjustment end fitting.

13.1 Vacuum servo unit non-return valve 14.3 Removing the plastic cover from thehandbrake lever

14.5 Handbrake adjusting nut (arrowed)

Braking system 9.11

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, but finally adjust the handbrake asdescribed in Section 14. I

Front cable

Removal 16.10 Release the retaining clips (arrowed)1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the and detach the handbrake cable from therear of the car and support on axle stands trailing arm(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Releasethe handbrake.2 If fitted, remove the plastic cover from the

4 Working beneath the car, unhook the rear

handbrake lever (see illustration). Whereend of the inner cable from the compensator.

necessary remove the rear section of the5 Release the cable from the underbody

centre console with reference to Chapter 11.supports and clips and withdraw from under

3 Pull back the carpet, then unscrew thethe car.

adjusting nut from the front end of the Refitting

handbrake cable. Release the cable from the 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal but adjusthandbrake. the cable as described in Section 14.

16.2 Exploded view of the handbrakecomponents

1 Cover2 Handbrake lever3 Adjuster nut4 Front cable5 Clamp6 Rear cables7 Clip8 Compensator9 support10 Spring washer11 Bolt12 Clamp13 Bracket14 Clip

16.11 With the shoes removed, detach thecable from the backplate

Rear cable

Removal7 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Releasethe handbrake.8 Remove the rear brake shoes on therelevant side as described in Section 5.9 Working beneath the car, unhook the innercable from the compensator.10 Release the outer cable from the supportand clips (see illustration).11 Withdraw the cable from the rear brakebackplate and remove from under the car(see illustration).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal butadjust the cable as described in Section 14.

Note: Before starting work refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 A brake pressure regulator is fitted in therear brake circuit of most models and itspurpose is to prevent the rear wheels lockingin advance of the front wheels during heavyapplication of the brakes. The regulator is alsoload sensitive in order to vary the pressureaccording to the load being carried. The 9regulator is located on the underbody, in frontof the left-hand rear wheel.2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, and thentightening it down onto a piece of polythene,to obtain an airtight seal.3 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).4 Working beneath the car unhook the springfrom the regulator.5 Identify each hydraulic brake line forposition, then unscrew the union nuts and

9.12 Braking system

withdraw the lines so that they are just clear ofthe regulator. Tape the ends of the brake linesto prevent entry of dust and dirt.6 Unscrew the mounting bolts and withdrawthe regulator from under the car.

Refitting7 Before refitting the regulator check that thebrake line apertures and sealing surfaces areclean.8 Locate the regulator on the underbody,insert the bolts and tighten securely.9 Remove the tape and wipe clean the endsof the hydraulic lines then insert them intotheir correct positions and tighten the unionnuts. To ensure that the nuts are not cross-threaded, initially tighten them by hand only.10 Hook the spring onto the regulator andadjustment roller.11 Remove the polythene from the mastercylinder then bleed the complete hydrauliccircuit as described in Section 2.12 Lower the car to the ground.13 The initial operation of the regulator canbe checked as follows Have an assistantdepress the brake pedal rapidly and checkthat the regulator lever moves at the sametime.

Adjustment14 Checking and adjustment of the regulatoris best left to a WV garage as special pressuregauges and spring tensioning tools arerequired. Adjustment is made by varying thespring tension, but this must be carried out bythe garage.

1 The stop-light switch is located either onthe pedal bracket or on the master cylinder.

18.2 Stoplight switch locationon the pedal bracket

Pedal bracket-mounted type

Removal2 Reach up behind the facia and disconnectthe wiring connector from the switch on the‘pedal bracket (see illustration).3 Twist the switch through 90° and release itfrom the mounting bracket. Note: The switchfor RHD and LHD models is different.

Refitting4 Prior to installation, fully extend thestoplight switch plunger.5 Fully depress and hold the brake pedal,then manoeuvre the switch into position.Secure the switch in position by twisting itthrough 90° and release the brake pedal.6 Reconnect the wiring connector, and checkthe operation of the stop-lights. The stop-lights should illuminate after the brake pedalhas travelled about 5 mm. If the switch is notfunctioning correctly, it is faulty and must berenewed; no adjustment is possible.

Master cylinder-mounted type

Removal7 Have ready a suitable plastic or rubberbung which will be a close fit in the switchaperture in the master cylinder. Place somecloth rags beneath the switch.

19.3 Unscrewing the handbrake warninglight switch mounting screw

8 Disconnect the wiring from the switch.Loosen and unscrew the switch until it is onits last threads, then quickly unscrew andremove it and the washer, and fit the bung.

Refitting9 Fit a new washer onto the switch.10 Remove the bung and fit the switch asquickly as possible, then tighten it securely.11 Wipe clean the exterior of the mastercylinder and reconnect the wiring.12 Bleed the complete hydraulic circuit asdescribed in Section 2.

Removal1 Remove the p last ic cover f rom thehandbrake lever and fully apply the lever.2 Pull back the carpet, then disconnect thewiring from the warning light switch which ismounted on a bracket on the floor.3 Unscrew the mounting screw and lift theswitch out (see illustration).

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Chapter 10Suspension and steering

ContentsFront anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Front coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Front shock absorber - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Front track control arm and balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .6Front wheel bearings - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Rear axle beam pivot bushes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Rear axle beam - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 1Rear stub axle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Rear suspension strut/shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . .8

Degrees of difficulty

Rear wheel bearings - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 0Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Steering column overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 4Steering lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 6Steering gear - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 8Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 3Tie-rods and balljoints - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 9Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information . . . . . . .20Wheels and tyres, tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

SpecificationsFront suspensionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear suspensionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SteeringType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Steering roll radius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Steering wheel turns lock to lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Steering ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front wheel alignmentTotal toe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Camber:

Except Mpi, GT and G40 (AAU and AAV engine models) . . . . . . . . .Mpi and GT (3F engine models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G40 (PY engine models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Maximum difference side to side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Castor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Maximum difference side to side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear wheel alignmentTotal toe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum difference side to side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , .

Independent with spring struts, lower track control arms, and anti-rollbar. Telescopic shock absorbers incorporated in struts

Semi-independent incorporating torsion axle beam, trailing arms, andspring struts/shock absorbers. Anti-roll bar incorporated in beam onmulti-point fuel injection (Mpi), GT and G40 models

Rack and pinion with safety columnNegative 4.17 mm3.6617.6 to 1

0°±10’ (0±1 mm)

+20’ ± 30’+ 10’ ± 30’-20’ ± 30’30’2° 20’ ± 30’1°

+20’ ± 10’-1° 30’ ± 10’20’

10.2 Suspension and steering

Wheels

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed steel disc or alloySize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45J x 13 or 55J x 13

TyresPressures - see end of “Weekly checks”.Sizes:*

Roadwheels:45Jx13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 R 13,145 R 13 or 155/70 R 135.5Jx13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165/65 R 13 or 175/60 R 13

‘Consult your handbook, a VW dealer or a tyre dealer for the correct size for your vehicle.

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ft

Front suspensionStrut to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Shock absorber rod to top mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Strut cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 110Steering knuckle to track control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Track control arm to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Anti-roll bar to control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55Anti-roll bar to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Anti-roll bar mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89

Rear suspension

Trailing arm to trunnion . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Trunnion to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89Stub axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Shock absorber to trailing arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Shockabsorber to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

SteeringTie-rod (outer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26Flange tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Column tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Steering wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Steering lock housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Steering gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Inner column clamp to steering gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Tie-rodinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Tie-rod carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Tie-rod locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

The front suspension is of independent typewith spring struts, lower track control armsand an anti-roll bar. Each strut incorporates atelescopic shock absorber which can berenewed separately in the event of failure. Thetrack control arms are attached to the wheelbearing housings/struts by balljoints. Thepivot points of the struts are positioned togive a negative roll in the interests of steeringstability. The anti-roll bar which stabilises thecar when cornering, also acts as a radius armfor each track control arm. The front wheelhubs are mounted in twin track ball bearingsin the wheel bearing housings.

The rear suspension is of semi-independenttype with trailing arms located at each end ofthe torsion axle beam. The shock absorbers

are an integral part of the spring struts. Theaxle beam is attached to the trailing armsbehind the pivot points.

The steering is of rack and pinion typemounted on the front of the bulkhead, and thecolumn is of telescopic (safety) design. Onearly models the bottom end of the innercolumn is connected directly to the steeringgear pinion by means of a clamp, however onlater models a universal joint is fitted. Somemodels are fitted with a steering damperattached to the steering gear end fitting.

Removal1 Remove the wheel trim from the relevantwheel.

2 With the handbrake applied loosen thedriveshaft nut (see illustration). The nut istightened to a high torque and a socketextension may be required.3 Jack up the front of the car and support iton axle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove the roadwheel.

2.2 Driveshaft nut

Suspension and steering 10.3

2.10a Removing the front suspension struttop cap

2.10b View of the front suspension strutupper mounting from below

4 Remove the brake disc with reference toChapter 9, then unbolt the splash plate fromthe strut.5 Unscrew the nut securing the steering tie-rod end to the strut, then use a balljointseparator to release the tie-rod.6 Remove the anti-roll bar as described inSection 7. Alternatively the track control armand anti-roll bar can be levered downwardslater (paragraph 8).7 Unscrew and remove the clamp boltsecuring the track control arm to the wheelbearing housing/strut noting that the bolthead faces forward.8 Push the control arm down to disconnectthe balljoint then move the strut sideways.9 Unscrew the driveshaft nut, then pull thestrut out and at the same time tap thedriveshaft through the hub with a mallet.

the cap from the top of the strut then unscrewthe self-locking nut while supporting the strutfrom below (see illustrations). If necessaryhold the shock absorber rod stationary with aspanner.11 Lower the strut from under the car.12 If necessary remove the cups and rubbermountings from the front suspension tower.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butrenew the upper rubber mountings ifnecessary. Refer to Section 7 when refittingthe anti-roll bar, Chapter 9 when refitting thebrake disc and Chapter 8 when tightening thedriveshaft nut. Finally check and if necessaryadjust the front wheel alignment as describedin Section 20. If difficulty is experienced fittingthe upper rubber mounting first dust it with

10 Working in the engine compartment prise talcum powder.

Exploded view of frontsuspension strut

1 Self-locking nut2 Damping ring3 Slotted nut4 Suspension strut

bearing5 Spring retainer6 Washer7 Bump stop8 Boot9 Coil spring10 Screw cap11 Piston rod guide seal12 Shock absorber13 ‘Wet type’shock

absorber14 Shock absorber

cartridge15 Wheel bearing housing16 Splash plate17 Wheel bearing18 Circlip19 Wheel hub20 Brake disc2 1 Wheel bolt

A Warning: Before attempting to! dismantle the suspension strut,a suitable tool to hold the coilspring in compression must be

obtained. Adjustable coil springcompressors are readily available, and arerecommended for this operation. Anyattempt to dismantle the strut withoutsuch a tool is likely to result in damage orpersonal injuy.Note: A special slotted socket is required toremove and refit the upper spring seatretaining nut; alternatives to the VW tool areavailable from specialist automotive toolmanufacturers (eg. Sykes Pickavant) (see ToolTip).

Removal1 Remove the front suspension strut asdescribed in Section 2.2 Using a spring compression tool compressthe coil spring until it is clear of the upperretainer.3 Using the special slotted socket, unscrewthe slotted nut from the shock absorber rodand withdraw the spring retainer, washer,bump stop, boot, and coil spring (seeillustration). If a special tool to engage theslotted nut is not available, use a pair of grips.4 Remove the compressor tool. 10Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal withreference to Section 2 when refitting the strut.Tighten the slotted nut to the specified torque.

10.4 Suspension and steering

Note: VW tool 40-201 B is necessary in orderto unscrew the screw cap from the top of thestrut.1 A faulty shock absorber will normally makea knocking noise as the car is driven overrough surfaces.2 To remove the shock absorber first removethe front coil spring as described in Section 3.3 Using VW tool 40-201 B unscrew the screwcap from the top of the strut and remove thepiston rod guide and seal. If necessary firstmount the strut in a vice.4 Pull the shock absorber out of the strut thenpour the remaining fluid out and discard it.Clean the inside of the strut with paraffin andwipe dry.5 Replacement shock absorbers are suppliedas dry type cartridges, the wet type are onlyfitted by the factory when new.6 With the new shock absorber upright,operate it fully several times and check thatthe resistance is even without any tight spots.7 Insert the shock absorber in the strut and fitthe guide together with a new seal.8 Fit the screw cap and tighten it to thespecified torque.9 Refit the coil spring as described in Section3.

Testing1 Jack up the front of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). With neutral selected, spin thewheel. A rumbling noise will be evident if thebearings are worn and excessive play will beapparent when the wheel is rocked, howevercheck that the lower bal l jo int is notresponsible for the play.

Renewal2 To renew the wheel bearings first removethe suspension strut as described in Section2.3 Support the outside of the strut, then usinga suitable metal tube, drive the hub from thewheel bearing. The outer bearing race will beforced from the bearing during this procedureand therefore it is not possible to re-use thebearing.4 Mount the hub in a vice and use a suitablepuller to remove the race (see illustration).5 Extract the circlips then support the strutagain and use a suitable metal tube to driveout the wheel bearing.6 Clean the inside of the bearing housing inthe strut.7 Fit the outer circlip to the strut.

5.4 Using a puller to remove the outerwheel bearing race from the hub

8 Support the strut then smear a little greaseon the bearing contact surfaces and drive inthe bearing using a metal tube on the outerrace only. Fit the inner circlip.9 Place the hub upright on the bench andsmear a little grease on the bearing contactarea.10 Locate the strut horizontally on the hub,then using a metal tube on the bearing innerrace drive the bearing fully onto the hub.11 Refit the suspension strut as described inSection 2.

Removal1 Jack up the front of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Apply the handbrake and removethe roadwheel.2 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing thecontrol arm balljoint to the strut. Press thecontrol arm down from the strut. Note that thebolt head faces forward.3 Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt fromthe inner end of the control arm. Note that thebolt head faces forward, and also mark itsposition on the bracket.4 Press the control arm down from thebracket, then unscrew the nut from the end ofthe anti-roll bar and pull off the control arm.5 If the balljoint is worn excessively, renewthe complete contro l arm. Check thecondition of the bushes and if necessarypress them out using a metal tube, nut andbolt, and washers. Fit the new bushes usingthe same method, but first dip them in soapywater. Note: On G40 models the inner end ofthe track control arm is attached to theunderbody by a fully enclosed ball joint whichcannot be renewed separately.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but delayfully tightening the inner pivot bolt and theanti-roll bar nut until the full weight of the caris on the roadwheels. Note that where camberangle adjustment has been made, the bolt

Removal1 Jack up the front of the car and supportwith axle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove both wheels and apply thehandbrake.2 Note that with the anti-roll bar correctlyfitted, the bend in the front of the bar facesupwards.3 Unscrew the bolts and remove themounting clamps securing the front of the barto the underbody bracket (see illustration).4 Unscrew and remove the nuts and washersfrom the ends of the anti-roll bar.5 Pull the anti-roll bar from the control armsand withdraw it from under the car. If difficultyis experienced, temporarily jack up the controlarms to give a little extra width for the removalof the bar.6 Check the bar and rubber bushes for wearand deterioration and renew as necessary. Ifthe bush in the control arm is worn, renew itwith reference to Section 6. Note: The bushesfitted to the G40 model are harder than thosefitted to other models.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but delayfully tightening the nuts and bolts until the fullweight of the car is on the roadwheels. Thebend in the front section of the bar must faceupwards. Note that the castor angle isdetermined by the position of the control armson the anti-roll bar, therefore any adjustmentwashers should be refitted in their originallocations.

7.3 Top view of the anti-roll barfront mounting bracket

(engine removed from car)

hole in the bracket may have been elongatedand in this case it is imperative that thespecial bush and bolt are refitted in theiroriginal position otherwise the adjustment willhave to be repeated.

Suspension and ‘steering 10.5

8.2 Remove the cap from the top of therear suspension strut

8.5a Rear suspension strut lowermounting bolt

2 Working inside the rear of the car, remove 6 Remove the upper spring seat, coil spring,the parcel tray then remove the cap from the lower buffer, washer, bump stop and bellowstop of the strut by twisting it anti-clockwise and, if the unit is to be renewed, the lower(see illustration). spring retainer (see illustration).3 Support the trailing arm with a trolley jack.4 Unscrew the nut from the top of the shockabsorber rod, if necessary holding the rodstationary with a spanner. Remove the cupand upper buffer.5 Working beneath the car remove the lowermounting bolt, then lower the trailing armsufficient to withdraw the strut/shockabsorber. Keep the coil spring, seat and bumpstop components in their fitted positions (seeillustrations).

7 If the shock absorber is faulty it willnormally make a knocking noise as the car isdriven over rough surfaces, however with theunit removed uneven resistance tight spotswill be evident as the central rod is operated.Check the condition of the buffers, bump stopand bellows and renew them if necessary.Before fitt ing the strut/shock absorberoperate it fully several times in an uprightposition and check that the resistance is evenand without any tight spots.

8.5b View of the rear suspension strutupper mounting from below

Remove the rear wheel.

10.6 Suspension and steering

9.3 Checking the rear wheel stub axlefor distortion

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the coil spring is correctly located inthe seats. Delay tightening the lower mountingbolt until the full weight of the car is on theroadwheels.

Removal1 Remove the rear brake shoes and wheelcylinder as described in Chapter 9.2 Unscrew the bolts and remove the brakebackplate followed by the stub axle.3 Clean the stub axle and check it fordistortion using a try-square and verniercalipers as shown (see illustration). Compare

10.3b Rear wheel bearing split pinand locking ring

10.7 Drive the outer races out of position 10.9 Drive the outer races securely intousing a hammer and punch position using a socket on the outer edge

the readings at a minimum of three points andif the difference between the maximum andminimum readings exceeds 0.25 mm, renewthe stub axle.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that all mating faces are clean andtighten the bolts to the specified torque. Referto Section 10 as necessary and adjust thewheel bearings.

Testing1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the car and support on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Releasethe handbrake.2 Spin the wheel. A rumbling noise will beevident if the bearings are worn in which casethey must be renewed.

Renewal3 Remove the wheel then prise off the centralhub cap and extract the split pin. Remove thelocking ring (see illustrations).4 Unscrew the hub nut and remove thethrustwasher and outer wheel bearing (seeillustrations).5 Withdraw the brake drum. If difficulty isexperienced, the brake shoes must be backedaway from the drum first. To do this, insert a

screwdriver through one of the bolt holes andpush the automatic adjuster wedge upwardsagainst the spring tension. This will releasethe shoes from the drum.6 Prise the seal from the inside of the drumwith a screwdriver.7 Remove the inner bearing, then using a softmetal drift, drive out the bearing outer races(see illustration).8 Clean the components in paraffin, wipethem dry, then examine them for wear anddeterioration. Check the rollers and races forsigns of pitting. Renew the bearings asnecessary and obtain a new oil seal. Wipeclean the stub axle.9 Using a suitable metal tube or socket, drivethe outer races into the drum/hub (seeillustration).10 Lubricate the bearings with lithium basedgrease then locate the inner bearing in its race(see illustration).

10.3a Removing the rear wheelhub cap

10.4a Rear wheel bearing thrustwasher 10.4b Removing the rear wheel outerbearing

10.10 Work grease into the taper rollerbearings prior to fitting them to the hub

Suspension and steering 10.7

10.11 Grease the lips of the seal, andpress it into the rear of the hub

11 Smear the lips of the new seal with a littlegrease. Using a block of wood drive the sealsquarely into the drum/hub with the lips facinginwards (see illustration).12 Refit the drum and locate the outerbearing on the stub axle.13 Fit the thrustwasher and hub nut, andtighten the nut hand tight.14 Refit the wheel.15 With the hub cap, split pin, and lockingring removed, tighten the hub nut firmly whileturning the wheel in order to settle thebearings.16 Back off the nut then tighten it until it isjust possible to move the thrustwasherlaterally with a screwdriver under fingerpressure. Do not twist the screwdriver or leverit (see illustration).17 Fit the locking ring together with a newsplit pin, then tap the hub cap into the drumwith a mallet.18 Lower the car to the ground.

RemovalNote: If the axle beam is suspected of beingdistorted it should be checked in position by aVW garage using an optical alignmentinstrument1 Remove the rear stub axles as described inSection 9.

10.16 Checking the rear wheel bearingadjustment with a screwdriver (see text)

2 Support the weight of the trailing arms withaxle stands then disconnect the struts/shockabsorbers by removing the lower mountingbolts.3 Remove the tail section of the exhaustsystem wi th reference to Chapter 4.Alternatively release the rear exhaust from therubber mountings and position it to one side.4 Disconnect the handbrake cables from theaxle beam with reference to Chapter 9.5 Remove the brake fluid reservoir filler capand tighten it down onto a piece of polythenesheet in order to reduce the loss of hydraulicfluid. Alternatively fit brake hose clamps to therear flexible hoses.6 Lower the axle beam and disconnect thebrake hydraulic hoses with reference toChapter 9.7 Support the weight of the axle beam withaxle stands then unscrew and remove thepivot bolts and lower the axle beam to theground. Note that the pivot bolt heads faceoutwards (see illustration).8 If the bushes are worn renew them asdescribed in Section 12. If necessary thetrunnion brackets can be removed byunscrewing the bolts. Discard the bolts.

Refitting9 Refit the trunnion brackets if removed, butcoat the new bolt threads with lockingcompound before tightening them to thespecified torque.10 Refitting the rear axle beam is a reversalof removal , but delay t ightening thestrut/shock absorber lower mounting bolts

and the axle beam pivot bolts to the specifiedtorques until the full weight of the car is on theroadwheels. Bleed the brake hydraulic systemas described in Chapter 9.

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Releasethe handbrake and remove the rear wheels.2 Remove the tail section of the exhaustsystem with reference to Chapter 4.3 Disconnect the handbrake cables from theunderbody brackets and axle beam withreference to Chapter 9.4 Unscrew and remove the pivot bolts andlower the axle beam onto axle stands makingsure the flexible brake hoses are not strained.5 Using a two-arm puller, force the bushesfrom the axle beam (see illustration). Dip thenew bushes in soapy water before pressingthem in from the outside with the puller.6 Refit the pivot bolts, handbrake cables,exhaust and rear wheels using a reversal ofthe removal procedure, but delay tighteningthe pivot bolt nuts to the specified torque untilthe full weight of the car is on the roadwheels.

Removal1 Set the front wheels in the straight-aheadposition.2 Prise the cover from the centre of thesteering wheel, note the location of the wiresand disconnect them from the terminals onthe cover.3 Mark the steering wheel, inner column andadapter sleeve in relation to each other, thenunscrew the nut, remove the washer andwithdraw the steering wheel. If it is tight, tryrocking it slowly but firmly. Remove thewasher (see illustrations).

12.5 Use a puller to remove the rear axlebeam pivot bushes

10.8 Suspension and steering

13.3a Unscrew the nut. . . 13.3b . . . and remove the washer

14.3b . . . and withdraw thelower shroud . . .

Refitting4 Refitting in a reversal of removal, but makesure that the turn signal lever is in its neutralposition, otherwise damage may occur to thecancelling arm. Make sure that the 3 mm thickwasher is fitted beneath the retaining nut, andalso check that when fitted a clearance of 3mm exists between the bottom edge of thesteering wheel and the steering columnswitch. Tighten the nut to the specifiedtorque.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the steering wheel as described inSection 13.3 Remove the screws and withdraw thesteering column lower then upper shrouds(see illustrations).4 Remove the three screws and withdraw thecombination switch. Disconnect the wiringplug.5 Remove the screws and withdraw the lowerfacia trim panel.6 Mark the position of the clamp on thebottom of the inner column in relation to thesteering gear pinion, then unscrew andremove the bolt (see illustration).7 Remove the column mounting bolts (seeillustration). An Allen key is required to

14.3c . . . and upper shroud

unscrew one bolt, but the remaining bolt is ashear bolt and therefore its head must bedrilled out using an 8.5 mm diameter drill.8 Lift the steering column and disconnect theinner column from the steering gear pinionsplines, then withdraw the column from thecar. Disconnect the ignition switch wiringplug, and unscrew the old shear bolt.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the column is correctly positionedbefore tightening the shear bolt until its headis broken off. On models manufactured fromlate 1991, make sure that there is a clearanceof 1 .0 mm between the end of the steeringgear pinion and the adjacent part of theuniversal joint (see illustration).

1 With the steering column removed asdescribed in Section 14 mark the splinedadapter in relation to the top of the innercolumn, then use a suitable puller to removethe adapter (see illustration).2 Remove the spring from the top of the innercolumn.3 Using an Allen key unscrew the clamp boltsecuring the steering lock and withdraw thelock. Note that the ignition key must beinserted and the lock released.

14.3a Remove the screws. . .

14.7 Steering column mounting bolts

14.9 On later models make sure that theclearance shown is maintained between

the end of the steering gear pinion and theuniversal joint

Suspension and steering I0.9

15.1 Draw the splined adapter off the 15.7 Use the steering wheel nut to presssteering column using a puller the adapter onto the inner column

16.6 Unscrewing the steering lockclamp bolt

4 Withdraw the inner column from the outercolumn and remove the support ring.5 Clean the components and examine themfor wear and damage. The metal tab on thebottom section of the inner column must bevisible in the hole of the top section - if not,the column may be damaged. On modelsmanufactured from late 1991, examine theuniversal jo int for wear. Renew thecomponents as necessary.6 Before reassembling the column,temporarily fit the components to the top ofthe column and check that there is aclearance of 3.0 mm ± 1.5 mm between thebottom of the steering wheel and the steeringcolumn switch.7 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling, butlubricate bearing surfaces with multi-purposegrease. The splined adapter is refitted usingthe steering wheel retaining nut to press it onthe top of the inner column (see illustration).

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the steering wheel as described inSection 13, and the splined adapter asdescribed in Section 15 paragraph 1 (seeillustration). However it is not necessary toremove the steering column for this work.

16.8a Undo the retaining screw . . .

16.9 Drill a 3 mm hole at the point shownto reveal the lock cylinder detent plunger

a 12mm b 10mm

3 Remove the screws and withdraw thesteering column lower shroud.4 Remove the three screws and withdraw thecombination switch. Disconnect the wiringplug.5 Remove the spring from the top of the innercolumn.6 Using an Allen key unscrew the clamp boltsecuring the steering lock (see illustration).7 Disconnect the wiring plug and withdrawthe steering lock from the top of the columntogether with the upper shroud. Note that theignition key must be inserted to ensure thatthe lock is in its released position.8 Remove the screw and withdraw the switchfrom the lock housing (see illustrations).9 To remove the lock cylinder, drill a 3.0 mmdiameter hole in the location shown (seeillustration), depress the spring pin, andextract the cylinder.

16.2 Removing the splined adapter andspring from the top of the inner column

16.8b . . . and remove the ignition switchfrom the steering column lock assembly

17.5 Clutch cable hole (arrowed) in thesteering gear housing

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

102 Remove the air duct and air cleaner asdescribed in Chapter 4.3 Lift out the windscreen washer bottle andplace it to one side.4 Inside the car, remove the screws andwithdraw the lower facia panel shelf fromaround the steering column.5 Disconnect the clutch cable from thetransmission with reference to Chapter 6, and

10.10 Suspension and steering

17.10a Steering gear location (engineremoved from car)

disengage it from the steering gear (seeillustration).6 Set the front wheels in the straight-aheadposition then unscrew the clamp bolt securingthe inner column to the steering gear pinion.Where applicable, remove the trim panel foraccess to the clamp bolt.7 Prise the inner column up from the pinionas far as it will go. Do not bend the clampopen.8 Unscrew and remove the tie-rod centrebolts and move the tie-rods to one side.Where applicable unscrew the bolt anddisconnect the steering damper.9 Jack up the front of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport"). Apply the handbrake and removethe front wheels.10 Unscrew the nuts and remove themounting clamps (see illustrations).11 Withdraw the steering gear upwards.

Refitting and adjustment12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but donot fully tighten the mounting clamp nuts untilthe steering gear is correctly aligned.13 With the front of the car supported on axlestands turn the steering from lock to lock andcheck that there are no tight spots orexcessive play. If necessary turn in the self-locking adjusting screw on the bottom of thesteering gear to reduce play or turn out toreduce tight spots. Turn the screw in 20°stages and initially make the adjustment withthe front wheels in the straight ahead position.14 Finally check and if necessary adjust theclutch with reference to Chapter 6.

17.10b Right-hand side mounting clampon the steering gear

1 Remove the air cleaner and duct asdescribed in Chapter 4.2 Unscrew and remove the clamp bolt fromthe end of the steering gear rack. Note thatthe bolt engages a groove on the side of therack. Separate the bracket from the rack.3 Loosen the clip and withdraw the bellowsfrom the steering gear together with theretaining ring.4 Smear a little steering gear grease on therack then fit the new bellows together with theinner clip. Locate the bellows on the housingand tighten the clip.5 Push on the retaining ring and locate thebellows in the outer groove.6 Fit the bracket then insert the bolt so that itengages the groove and tighten the nut.7 Refit the air cleaner with reference toChapter 4.

Removal1 If the steering tie-rod and balljoints areworn, play will be evident as the roadwheel isrocked from side to side, and the balljointmust then be renewed. On RHD models the

19.4a Unscrew the nut . . . 19.4b . . . then use a balljointseparator tool . . .

lg.2 Steering tie-rod centre bolts

left-hand tie-rod is adjustable and the balljointon this tie-rod can be renewed separately,however the right-hand tie-rod must berenewed complete. On LHD models the tie-rods are vice versa.2 If the complete tie-rod is to be removedunscrew the centre bolt preferably with theweight of the car on the wheels otherwise therubbe r bush may be damaged ( seeillustration).3 Jack up the front of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Apply the handbrake and removethe front wheel(s).4 Unscrew the balljoint nut then use aballjoint separator tool to release the jointfrom the strut (see illustrations).5 Withdraw the tie-rod or, if removing only thetie-rod end, loosen the locknut and unscrewthe tie-rod end.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tightenthe nuts to the specified torque and check thefront wheel alignment (refer to Section 20).

Definitions1 A car’s steering and suspension geometryis defined in four basic settings - all angles areexpressed in degrees (toe settings are alsoexpressed as a measurement); the steering

19.4c . . . to release the tie-rod

Suspension and steering 10.11

axis is defined as an imaginary line drawnthrough the axis of the suspension strut,extended where necessary to contact theground.2 Camber is the angle between eachroadwheel and a vertical line drawn throughits centre and tyre contact patch, whenviewed from the front or rear of the car.Positive camber is when the roadwheels aretilted outwards from the vertical at the top;negative camber is when they are tiltedinwards.3 Camber angle does not normally requireadjustment, but refer to Section 6. It can bechecked using a camber checking gauge.4 Castor is the angle between the steeringaxis and a vertical line drawn through eachroadwheel’s centre and tyre contact patch,when viewed from the side of the car. Positivecastor is when the steering axis is tilted sothat it contacts the ground ahead of thevertical; negative castor is when it contactsthe ground behind the vertical.5 Castor angle does not normally requireadjustment, but refer to Section 7. It can bechecked using a castor checking gauge - ifthe figure obtained is significantly differentfrom that specified, the vehicle must be takenfor careful checking by a professional. Wherenecessary a 3.0 mm washer can be insertedat the anti-roll bar bush on the front of thelower suspension arm.6 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,between lines drawn through the roadwheelcentres and the car’s centre-line. “Toe-in” iswhen the roadwheels point inwards, towardseach other at the front, while “toe-out” iswhen they splay outwards from each other atthe front.

7 The front wheel toe setting is adjusted byscrewing the left-hand track rod (RHDmodels) or right-hand track rod (LHD models)in or out of its balljoint, to alter the effectivelength of the track rod assembly.8 Rear wheel toe setting is not adjustable,and is given for reference only. While it can bechecked, if the figure obtained is significantlydifferent from that specified, the vehicle mustbe t aken f o r ca re fu l check i ng by aprofessional, as the fault can only be causedby wear or damage to the body or suspensioncomponents.

Checking and adjustment

Front wheel toe setting9 Due to the special measuring equipmentnecessary to check the wheel alignment, andthe skill required to use it properly, thechecking and adjustment of these settings isbest left to a VW dealer or similar expert. Notethat most tyre-fitting shops now possesssophisticated checking equipment.10 To check the toe setting, a tracking gaugemust first be obtained. Two types of gaugeare available, and can be obtained from motoraccessory shops. The first type measures thedistance between the front and rear insideedges of the roadwheels, as previouslydescribed, with the vehicle stationary. Thesecond type, known as a ‘scuff plate’,measures the actual position of the contactsurface of the tyre, in relation to the roadsurface, with the vehicle in motion. This isachieved by pushing or driving the front tyreover a plate, which then moves slightlyaccording to the scuff of the tyre, and showsthis movement on a scale. Both types have

their advantages and disadvantages, buteither can give satisfactory results if usedcorrectly and carefully.11 Make sure that the steering is in thestraight-ahead position when makingmeasurements.12 If adjustment is necessary, apply thehandbrake then jack up the front of thevehicle and support it securely on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).13 First clean the track rod threads; if theyare corroded, apply penetrating fluid beforestarting adjustment.14 Retain the track rod with a suitablespanner and slacken the locknuts. Alter the,length of the track rod by turning the tie-rodas necessary.15 When the setting is correct, hold the trackrod and tighten the locknuts. If afteradjustment, the steering wheel spokes are nolonger horizontal when the wheels are in thestraight-ahead position, remove the steeringwheel and reposition it (see Section 13).16 Check that the toe setting has beencorrectly adjusted by lowering the vehicle tothe ground and re-checking; re-adjust ifnecessary.

Rear wheel toe setting17 The procedure for checking the rear toesetting is same as described for the front inparagraph 10. The setting is not adjustable.

Front wheel camber angle18 Checking and adjusting of the front wheelcamber angle should be entrusted to a VWdealer or other suitably equipped specialist.Note that most tyre-fitting shops now possesssophisticated checking equipment.

Chapter 11Bodywork and fittings

ContentsBody exterior fittings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . .19Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . .18Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Door exterior handle and lock components - removal and refitting . .14Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15Exterior mirror and associated components - removal and refitting .20Facia panel assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Front bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty

Interior trim and glovebox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Rear bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Sliding roof runner lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Sunroof - general information and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . .22Tailgate and support struts (Hatchback and Coupe models) -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Underbody sealant check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Windscreen, tailgate and fixed windows - general information . . . . .21

SpecificationsTorque wrench settings NmTailgate lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .._....... 23Windowregulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Exterior handle:

To outside of door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2To edge of door ,.........,...............,...........,. 8

Bumpers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Seat belts:

Reel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40Stalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60A n c h o r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0

Tailgate lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Ibfft17641

1.564

30443017

11.2 Bodywork and fittings

1 General information

The bodyshell is made of pressed-steelsections, and is available in three-doorHatchback, three-door Coupe and two-doorSaloon versions. Most components arewelded together, but some use is made ofstructural adhesives; the front wings arebolted on.

The bonnet, door, and some othervulnerable panels are made of zinc-coatedmetal, and are further protected by beingcoated with an anti-chip primer before beingsprayed.

Extensive use is made of plastic materials,mainly in the interior, but also in exteriorcomponents, The front and rear bumpers andfront grille are injection-moulded from asynthetic material that is very strong and yetlight. Plastic components such as wheel archliners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle,to improve the body’s resistance to corrosion.

The general condition of a vehicle’sbodywork is the one thing that significantlyaffects its value. Maintenance is easy, butneeds to be regular. Neglect, particularly afterminor damage, can lead quickly to furtherdeterioration and costly repair bills. It isimportant also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, forinstance the underside, inside all the wheelarches, and the lower part of the enginecompartment.

The basic maintenance routine for thebodywork is washing - preferably with a lot ofwater, from a hose. This will remove all theloose solids which may have stuck to thevehicle. It is important to flush these off insuch a way as to prevent grit from scratchingthe finish. The wheel arches and under-frameneed washing in the same way, to remove anyaccumulated mud which will retain moistureand tend to encourage rust. Strangelyenough, the best time to clean the under-frameand wheel arches is in wet weather, when themud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wetweather, the under-frame is usually cleaned oflarge accumulations automatically, and this isa good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is agood idea to have the whole of theunder-frame of the vehicle steam-cleaned,engine compartment included, so that athorough inspection can be carried out to seewhat minor repairs and renovations arenecessary. Steam cleaning is available atmany garages, and is necessary for theremoval of the accumulation of oily grime,

which sometimes is allowed to become thickin certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities arenot available, there are some excellent greasesolvents available which can be brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbodyprotective coating, or the coating will beremoved. Such vehicles should be inspectedannually, preferably just before Winter, whenthe underbody should be washed down, andrepair any damage to the wax coating. Ideally,a completely fresh coat should be applied. Itwould also be worth considering the use ofsuch wax-based protection for injection intodoor panels, sills, box sections, etc, as anadditional safeguard against rust damage,where such protection is not provided by thevehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with achamois leather to give an unspotted clearfinish. A coat of clear protective wax polish willgive added protection against chemicalpollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen hasdulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polishercombination to restore the brilliance of theshine. This requires a little effort, but suchdulling is usually caused because regularwashing has been neglected. Care needs to betaken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoiddamage to the finish. Always check that thedoor and ventilator opening drain holes andpipes are completely clear, so that water canbe drained out. Brightwork should be treated inthe same way as paintwork. Windscreens andwindows can be kept clear of the smeary filmwhich often appears, by proprietary glasscleaner. Never use any form of wax or otherbody or chromium polish on glass.

Mats and carpets should be brushed orvacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free ofgrit. If they are badly stained, remove themfrom the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, andmake quite sure they are dry before refitting.Seats and interior trim panels can be keptclean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they dobecome stained (which can be more apparenton light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquiddetergent and a soft nail brush to scour thegrime out of the grain of the material. Do notforget to keep the headlining clean in the sameway as the upholstery. When using liquidcleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet thesurfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp couldget into the seams and padded interior,causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. Ifthe inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, itis worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it outproperly, particularly where carpets areinvolved. Do not leave oil or electric heatersinside the vehicle for this purpose.

Repairs of minor scratches inbodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and doesnot penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area ofthe scratch with a paintwork renovator or avery fine cutting paste to remove loose paintfrom the scratch, and to clear the surroundingbodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area withclean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using afine paint brush; continue to apply fine layersof paint until the surface of the paint in thescratch is level with the surroundingpaintwork. Allow the new paint at least twoweeks to harden, then blend it into thesurrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratcharea with a paintwork renovator or a very finecutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated rightthrough to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair techniqueis required. Remove any loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a penknife, thenapply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator, fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste canbe mixed with cellulose thinners to provide avery thin paste which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the stopper-paste in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip thefinger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweepit across the surface of the stopper-paste inthe scratch; this will ensure that the surface ofthe stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. Thescratch can now be painted over as describedearlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodyworkWhen deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is topull the dent out, until the affected bodyworkalmost attains its original shape. There is littlepoint in trying to restore the original shapecompletely, as the metal in the damaged areawill have stretched on impact, and cannot bereshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 3 mm below the level ofthe surrounding bodywork. In cases where thedent is very shallow anyway, it is not worthtrying to pull it out at all. If the underside of thedent is accessible, it can be hammered outgently from behind, using a mallet with awooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,hold a suitable block of wood firmly againstthe outside of the panel, to absorb the impactfrom the hammer blows and thus prevent alarge area of the bodywork from being“belled-out”.

Bodywork and fittings 11.3

Should the dent be in a section of thebodywork which has a double skin, or someother factor making it inaccessible frombehind, a different technique is called for. Drillseveral small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.Then screw long self-tapping screws into theholes, just sufficiently for them to gain a goodpurchase in the metal. Now the dent can bepulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removalof the paint from the damaged area, and froman inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork. This is accomplished most easilyby using a wire brush or abrasive pad on apower drill, although it can be done just aseffectively by hand, using sheets of abrasivepaper. To complete the preparation for filling,score the surface of the bare metal with ascrewdr iver or the tang of a f i le , oralternatively, drill small holes in the affectedarea. This will provide a good “key” for thefiller paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section onfilling and respraying.

Repairs of rust ho/esor gashes in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,and from an inch or so of the surrounding“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or awire brush on a power drill. If these are notavailable, a few sheets of abrasive paper willdo the job most effectively. With the paintremoved, you will be able to judge the severityof the corrosion, and therefore decidewhether to renew the whole panel (if this ispossible) or to repair the affected area. Newbody panels are not as expensive as mostpeople think, and it is often quicker and moresatisfactory to fit a new panel than to attemptto repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,except those which will act as a guide to theoriginal shape of the damaged bodywork (egheadlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips ora hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal andany other metal badly affected by corrosion.Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, tocreate a slight depression for the filler paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove thepowdery rust from the surface of theremaining metal. Paint the affected area withrust-inhibiting paint: if the back of the rustedarea is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will benecessary to block the hole in some way. Thiscan be achieved with aluminium or plasticmesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibrematting, is probably the best material to use fora large hole. Cut a piece to the approximatesize and shape of the hole to be filled, thenposition it in the hole so that its edges arebelow the level of the surrounding bodywork. Itcan be retained in position by several blobs offiller paste around its periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small orvery narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trimit to the approximate size and shape required,then pull off the backing paper (if used) andstick the tape over the hole; it can beoverlapped if the thickness of one piece isinsufficient. Burnish down the edges of thetape with the handle of a screwdriver orsimilar, to ensure that the tape is securelyattached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs -filling and respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sectionson dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gashrepairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, butgenerally speaking, those proprietary kitswhich contain a tin of filler paste and a tube ofresin hardener are best for this type of repairwhich can be used directly from the tube. Awide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will befound invaluable for imparting a smooth andwell-contoured finish to the surface of thefiller.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of cardor board - measure the hardener carefully(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or tooslowly. Using the applicator, apply the fillerpaste to the prepared area; draw theapplicator across the surface of the filler toachieve the correct contour and to level thesurface. When a contour that approximates tothe correct one is achieved, stop working thepaste - if you carry on too long, the paste willbecome sticky and begin to “pick-up” on theapplicator. Continue to add thin layers of fillerpaste at 20-minute intervals, until the level ofthe filler is just proud of the surroundingbodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excesscan be removed using a metal plane or file.From then on, progressively-finer grades ofabrasive paper should be used, starting with a40-grade production paper, and finishing witha 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrapthe abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,or wooden block - otherwise the surface ofthe filler will not be completely flat. During thesmoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed inwater. This will ensure that a very smoothfinish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finely“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.Rinse the repair area with clean water, until allthe dust produced by the rubbing-downoperation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat ofprimer - this will show up any imperfections inthe surface of the fi l ler. Repair theseimperfections with fresh filler paste orbodystopper, and again smooth the surfacewith abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, itcan be mixed with cellulose thinners, to form

a thin paste which is ideal for filling smallholes. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedureuntil you are satisfied that the surface of thefiller, and the feathered edge of the paintwork,are perfect. Clean the repair area with cleanwater, and allow to dry fully.

The repair area is now ready for finalspraying. Paint spraying must be carried outin a warm, dry, windless and dust-freeatmosphere. This condition can be createdartificially if you have access to a large indoorworking area, but if you are forced to work inthe open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousingthe floor in the work area with water will helpto settle the dust which would otherwise be inthe atmosphere. If the repair area is confinedto one body panel, mask off the surroundingpanels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodyworkfittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)will also need to be masked off. Use genuinemasking tape, and several thickness ofnewspaper, for the masking operations.

Before starting to spray, agitate the aerosolcan thoroughly, then spray a test area (an oldtin, or similar) until the technique is mastered.Cover the repair area with a thick coat ofprimer; the thickness should be built up usingseveral thin layers of paint, rather than onethick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-drypaper, rub down the surface of the primeruntil it is smooth. While doing this, the workarea should be thoroughly doused with water,and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsedin water. Allow to dry before spraying on morepaint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.Start spraying in the centre of the repair area,and then, using a circular motion, workoutwards until the whole repair area andabout 2 inches of the surrounding originalpaintwork is covered. Remove all maskingmaterial 10 to 15 minutes after spraying onthe final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator or avery fine cutting paste, blend the edges of thepaint into the existing paintwork. Finally, applywax polish.

Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers. spoilers, and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialisti n t h i s f i e l d , o r r enew ing comp le tecomponents. Repair of such damage by the 11DIY owner is not feasible, owing to the cost ofthe equipment and materials required foreffecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot air gun to heat up

11.4 Bodywork and fittings

and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed, and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repairmaterial which can be used directly from thetube. Once mixed in equal proportions, this isused in similar fashion to the bodywork fillerused on metal panels. The filler is usuallycured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready forsanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plasticused. At one time, the use of a universal paintwas not possible, owing to the complex rangeof plastics met with in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generallyspeaking, will not bond to plastic or rubbersatisfactorily, but professional matchedpaints, to match any plastic or rubber finish,can be obtained from some dealers. However,it is now possible to obtain a plastic bodyparts finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and coloured topcoat. Full instructions are normally suppliedwith a kit, but basically the method of use is tofirst apply the pre-primer to the componentconcerned, and allow it to dry for up to30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, andleft to dry for about an hour before finallyapplying the special-coloured top coat. Theresult is a correctly coloured component,where the paint will flex with the plastic orrubber, a property that standard paint doesnot normally posses.

Where serious damage has occurred, orlarge areas need renewal due to neglect, itmeans that complete new panels will need

welding-in, and this is best left toprofessionals. If the damage is due to impact,it will also be necessary to check completelythe alignment of the bodyshell, and this canonly be carried out accurately by a VW dealerusing special j igs. If the body is leftmisaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as thecar will not handle properly, and secondly,uneven stresses will be imposed on thesteering, suspension and possiblytransmission, causing abnormal wear, orcomplete failure, particularly to such items asthe tyres.

Removal1 Support the bonnet in its open position.2 Release the clips from the top of the grilleby pressing them down with a screwdriver(see illustration).3 Move the top of the grille forwards then lift itfrom the lower mounting holes in the frontvalance (see illustration).

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal1 Jack up the front of the car and support onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Apply the handbrake.2 Remove the radiator grille (see Section 6).3 Unscrew the three upper mounting boltsfrom the top edge of the front bumper.4 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts, thenpull the bumper forwards and disengage itfrom the side guide plates (see illustration).Where headlamp washers are f i t ted,disconnect the tubing from the jets.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal

Hatchback and Coupe models

1 Open the tailgate then prise out the coversand unscrew the upper mounting bolts from thetop edge of the rear bumper (see illustration).2 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts then pullthe rear bumper rearwards and disengage itfrom the side guide plates (see illustration).

6.2 Releasing the clips at the top of theradiator grille with a screwdriver

7.4 Front bumper mounting bolt 8.1 Rear bumper upper mounting boltand cover

6.3 Removing the radiator grille

Bodywork and fittings 11.5

Saloon models3 Remove the number plate lights from therear bumper as described in Chapter 12.4 Unscrew the mounting bolts securing therear bumper to the underbody bracket. Ifnecessary, access can be improved by raisingthe rear of the car and supporting on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).5 Pull the rear bumper rearwards anddisengage it from the side guide plates.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal1 Support the bonnet in its open position,and place some cardboard or rags beneaththe corners by the hinges.2 Mark the location of the hinges with a pencilthen loosen the four retaining bolts.3 With the help of an assistant, release thestay, remove the bolts, and withdraw thebonnet from the car.

Refitting and adjustment4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjustthe hinges to their original positions andcheck that the bonnet is level with thesurrounding bodywork. If necessary adjust theheight of the bonnet front edge by screwingthe rubber buffers in or out, and also adjustthe bonnet lock if necessary with reference toSection 11.

Removal1 Open the bonnet, unbolt the bonnet lockfrom the engine compartment front cross-member and disconnect the cable.

10.3 Bonnet release handle beneath theleft-hand side of the facia

2 Inside the car, remove the lower facia panelon the left-hand side under the facia.3 Remove the bonnet catch release handleand bracket (two screws), then disconnect thecable (see illustration). Tie a piece of thinwire or cord to the inside end and pull thatinto the place the cable occupied to makefitting a new cable more simple. Release thecable from the retainers in the enginecompartment and release the rubber grommetfrom the bulkhead.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the cable is positioned without anysharp bends.

Removal1 To remove the lock, open the bonnet thenmark the position of the bonnet lock on theengine compartment front crossmember (seeillustration).2 Unscrew the mounting bolts, withdraw thelock and disconnect the cable.

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ifnecessary adjust the height of the bonnetfront edge by loosening the retaining bolts

11 .1 The bonnet lock located on theengine compartment front crossmember

and repositioning the lock within theelongated holes. The safety catch and anti-rattle spring should be checked for conditionat the same time. Check that the bonnet issupported by the rubber buffers when shut,and if necessary adjust the height of thebuffers by screwing them in or out.

Removal1 Open the door then prise off the specialwasher and remove the check strap pivot pin(see illustration).2 Mark the position of the door hingebrackets in relation to each other.3 Support the door then unscrew and removethe lower hinge bolt followed by the upperhinge bolt, and withdraw the door from the car(see illustration).

Refitting and adjustment4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ifnecessary adjust the position of the door onthe hinges so that, when closed, it is level withthe surrounding bodywork and central withinthe body aperture. Lubricate the hinges with alittle oil and the check strap with grease. Ifnecessary adjust the position of the doorstriker.

12.1 Door check strap and pivot pin 12.3 Door upper hinge bolt

11.6 Bodywork and fittings

13.1 Removing the locking knob 13.2 Slide the inner handle surroundto the rear to remove it

13.3a Removing the exterior mirrorcontrol knob. . .

13.3b . . . and boot 13.4a Prise out the trim cover. . . 13.4b . . . unscrew the mountingscrews. . .

13.4c . . . and release the door pullfrom the trim

Removal1 If required, unscrew and remove the lockingknob from the top of the inner trim panel (seeillustration). This is not essential as the trimpanel is slotted to allow it to be removed withthe knob in position.2 Remove the inner handle surround bysliding it to the rear (see illustration).3 Remove the exterior mirror control knoband boot from the top of the door pull (seeillustrations).4 Prise the trim cover from the door pull,remove the cross-head screws, then movethe rear of the door pull outwards. Note thelocation lug (see illustrations).

13.5a Prise off the cover . . . 13.5b . . . remove the screw. . .

13.5c . . . and withdraw the windowregulator handle from the splines

5 Note the position of the window regulatorhandle with the window shut then prise off thecover, remove the cross-head screw andwithdraw the handle (see illustrations).6 Where applicable, remove the self-tappingscrews and withdraw the storage compart-

13.7 Cross-head screw securing the innertrim panel to the door

ment panel. This is not required on all models.7 Prise out the stoppers and remove thecross-head screws from the trim panel (seeillustration).8 Using a wide blade screwdriver carefullyprise the trim panel clips from the door inner

Bodywork and fittings 11.7

13.8 Releasing the inner trim panel fromthe weatherseal

14.1 Screw securing the exterior handle tothe rear edge of the door

panel taking care not to damage the trim.Remove the panel and release it from the upperinner door weatherseal (see illustration).9 Remove the window regulator handlepacking (see illustration).10 If necessary peel the protective sheet fromthe door (see illustration). The trim clips arefitted over the sheet - it will be necessary tocut round them to prevent tearing the sheet.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Exterior handle

Removal1 Open the door and unscrew the singlescrew securing the handle to the rear edge ofthe door (see illustration).2 Using a small screwdriver lever the plasticstrip insert from the exterior door handle (seeillustration).3 Remove the cross-head screw andwithdraw the exterior handle from the door(see illustrations). Note: The handle is notconnected directly with the door lock.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but checkthe sealing gasket and fit a new one ifnecessary.

13.9 Removing the window regulatorhandle packing

13.10 Peeling the protective sheetfrom the door

14.2 Removing the plastic strip insert fromthe exterior door handle

14.3a Remove the screw. . .

14.3b . . . then release the exterior handlefrom the door

Door lock

Removal5 Remove the trim panel, locking knob andprotective sheeting (refer to Section 13) thenremove the packing from around the inner

14.5 Packing around the inner door handle

door handle (see illustration). The lockingknob must also be unscrewed from thecontrol rod before removing the door lock.6 Using a screwdriver release the inner doorhandle from the door inner panel, then unhookit from the control rod (see illustrations).

14.6a Use a screwdriver to release theinner door handle. . .

14.6b . . . then unhook itfrom the control rod

11.8 Bodywork and fittings

14.7a Unscrew the mounting screws . . . 14.7b . . . and withdraw the lockfrom the door

15.3b Bolts securing the lifting plateto the window channel

7 Unscrew the two screws securing the doorlock to the rear edge of the door, thenwithdraw the lock while guiding the lockingcontrol rod and main control rods from thedoor (see illustrations). Keep the lockingknob engaged with the lock.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the locking knob control rod remainsengaged with the lock while guiding it throughthe hole in the top of the door. Also make surethe main control rod is located on the inner(protective sheet) side of the window channelbefore connecting it to the inner door handle.

Removal1 Remove the trim panel as described inSection 13.2 Temporarily refit the window regulatorhandle and lower the window until the liftingplate is visible.3 Remove the bolts securing the regulator tothe door and the bolts securing the lifting plateto the window channel (see illustrations).4 Raise the window glass and retain it withadhesive tape. Release the regulator from thedoor and remove it through the aperture (seeillustration).

15.4 Removing the window regulatorthrough the door aperture

5 With the window fully lowered unclip theinner and outer mouldings from the windowaperture (see illustration).6 Remove the bolt and screw and pull out thefront window channel abutting the cornerwindow (see illustration).7 Withdraw the corner window and seal.8 Lift the window glass from the door.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If the glassis being renewed, make sure that the liftchannel is located in the same position as inthe old glass. Ensure that the inner cable isadequately lubricated with grease and ifnecessary adjust the position of the regulatorso that the window moves smoothly.

15.3a Bolts securing the window regulatorto the door

15.5 Unclip the mouldings from thewindow aperture

Removal

Tailgate1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.Open up the tailgate.2 Remove the inner trim panel by extractingthe retaining clips first; use a wide bladescrewdriver inserted beneath each retainingclip position in turn (see illustration).3 Disconnect the wiring connectors situatedbehind the trim panel and disconnect thewasher hose. Also disconnect the wiringconnectors from the heated rear screenterminals and free the wiring grommets fromthe tailgate.

15.6 Bolt securing the front windowchannel

16.2 Removing the tailgate innertrim panel and clips

Bodywork and fittings 11.9

16.5 Tailgate hinge

4 Tie a piece of string to each end of thewiring then, noting the correct routing of thewiring harness, release the harness rubbergrommets from the tailgate and withdraw thewiring. When the end of the wiring appears,untie the string and leave it in position in thetailgate; it can then be used on refitting todraw the wiring into position. Similarly removethe washer tubing.5 Using a marker pen, draw around theoutline of each hinge marking its correctposition on the tailgate (see illustration).6 Have an assistant support the tailgate, thenusing a small flat-bladed screwdriver raise thespring clips and pull the support struts offtheir balljoint mountings on the tailgate (seeillustration). Slacken and remove the boltssecuring the hinges to the tailgate and removethe ta i lgate f rom the vehicle. Wherenecessary, recover the gaskets fitted betweenthe hinge and tailgate.7 Inspect the hinges for signs of wear ordamage and renew if necessary. The hingesare secured to the vehicle by bolts which canbe accessed once the headlining has beenfreed from the trim strip and peeled back. Onrefitting ensure that the hinge gasket is ingood condition and secure the hinge inposition.

Support strut8 Support the tailgate in the open position,using a stout piece of wood, or with the helpof an assistant.9 Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver raisethe spring clip, and pull the support strut off

17.3a Removing the screws securing thetailgate handle strip

16.6 Prise out the spring clips beforeremoving the support struts from their

balljoint mountings

its balljoint mounting on the tailgate. Note onCoupe models the upper mounting is of pintype and the strut is removed by sliding offthe pin; recover the washers and spacersnoting their positions. Raise the secondretaining clip then detach the strut from theballjoint on the body and remove it from thevehicle.

Refitting

Tailgate10 Refitting is the reverse of removal,aligning the hinges with the marks madebefore removal.11 On completion, close the tailgate andcheck its alignment with the surroundingpanels. If necessary slight adjustment can bemade by slackening the retaining bolts andrepositioning the tailgate on its hinges. Ifnecessary, adjust the tailgate rubber buffersby screwing them in or out.

Support struts12 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, ensuring that the strut is securelyretained by its retaining clips.

Removal1 Open the tailgate and using an Allen key

17.1 Using an Allen key to unscrew thetailgate lock retaining screws

unscrew the two lock retaining screws (seeillustration). W i t h d r a w t h e l o c k a n ddisconnect the wiring and link rod.2 To remove the lock cylinder first remove thetrim from the inside of the tailgate, thenworking through the aperture extract thecirclip from the inner end of the lock cylinder.Insert the key then push out the cylinder frominside and remove from the tailgate.3 The lock cylinder housing can be removedwith the inner trim removed, by removing thehandle strip then disconnecting the controlrod and pressing out the locking lugs (seeillustrations). The housing can then beremoved from the tailgate.4 The lock striker can be removed byunscrewing it (see illustration).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but beforefully tightening the striker, close and open thetailgate two or three times to centralise it.Tighten the lock retaining screws to thespecified torque.

1 Open the boot lid and mark the position ofthe hinges with a pencil or marker pen.2 With the help of an assistant unscrew the

17.3b Disconnecting the control rodfrom the tailgate lock cylinder

17.4 Removing the tailgate lock striker

11.10 Bodywork and fittings

bolts and withdraw the boot lid. Recover thespacer where fitted.3 The boot lock and striker are each securedby two cross-head screws, but whenremoving the lock it will be necessary tounhook the connecting rod.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the boot lid is central within theaperture and adjust its position on the hingebolts. If necessary, adjust the bootlid rubberbuffers by screwing them in or out. To adjustthe boot lock striker, loosen the mountingscrews then tighten them just sufficiently tohold the striker in position. Close and re-openthe boot lid and fully tighten the screws.Adjust the stop rubbers if necessary.

Removal

Boot lid lock1 Open up the boot, then undo the lockretaining screws. Remove the lock, anddetach it from the link rod as it is withdrawn.Recover the plastic cap.

Boot lid lock cylinder2 Where necessary remove the trim/coverfrom the inside of the boot for access to therear of the lock.3 Unclip the link rod from the lock cylinder.4 Undo the two retaining screws and removethe lock cylinder assembly from the boot lid.Recover the lock cylinder sealing ring.5 It is not possible to separate the cylinderfrom the assembly.’6 Inspect the sealing ring for signs of wear ordamage and renew if necessary.

Refitting

Boot lid lock7 Attach the link rod, then seat the lock andplastic cap in the boot lid and securely tightenits retaining bolts.

Boot lid lock cylinder8 Fit the sealing ring to the lock cylinderassembly. Insert the assembly into the bootlid and refit the retaining screws tighteningthem securely.9 Clip the link rod on the lock cylinder andwhere necessary refit the trim/cover.

20.6 Exterior mirror control locknut andcontrol knob on the inside of the door

Removal

Non-remote control type1 Prise the plastic cover from inside the door.2 Unscrew the cross-head screws andremove the clips.3 Withdraw the outer cover and mirror.

Remote control type4 Pull off the adjusting knob and bellows fromthe inside door pull.5 Remove the door trim panel (Section 13).6 Unscrew the locknut and remove theadjusting knob from the bracket (seeillustration). If necessary also remove thescrews and withdraw the bracket from thedoor.7 Prise off the triangular plastic cover thenunscrew the cross-head screws and removethe clips (see illustration).8 Withdraw the mirror together with theadjusting knob and gasket.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit anew gasket if necessary.

Removal and refitting of the windscreenand fixed glass windows is best left to a VWgarage or windscreen specialist who will havethe necessary equipment and expertise tocomplete the work properly.

1 The sunroof can be taken out completely asfollows. Turn the rotary knob anti-clockwisehalf a turn to release the tension.2 Press the two release buttons on the knob

20.7 Removing the triangular plastic coverto reveal the mirror mounting screws

housing, then lift the rear of the sunroof andmove it rearwards from the front hinges. Stowthe sunroof safely in the luggage compartment.3 Due to the complexity of the sunroofmechanism, considerable expertise is neededto repair, replace or adjust the sunroofcomponents successfully. Removal of the rooffirst requires the headlining to be removed,which is a complex and tedious operation,and is not a task to be undertaken lightly.Therefore, any problems with the sunroofshould be referred to a VW dealer.

Removal

Wheel arch linersand body under-panels1 The various plastic covers fitted to theunderside of the vehicle are secured inposition by screws, nuts or retaining clips andremoval will be fairly obvious on inspection,Work methodically around the panel removingits retaining screws and releasing its retainingclips until the panel is free and can beremoved from the underside of the vehicle.Most clips used on the vehicle, except for thefasteners which are used to secure thewheelarch liners in position, are simply prisedout of position. The wheelarch liner clips arereleased by pressing out their centre pins andthen removing the outer section of the clip;new clips will be required on refitting if thecentre pins are not recovered.

Body trim strips and badges2 The various body trim strips and badgesare held in position with special adhesive tapeor pop rivets. Removal of trim attached withtape requires the trim/badge to be heated, tosoften the adhesive, and then cut away fromthe surface. Due to the high risk of damage tothe vehicle’s paintwork during this operation,it is recommended that this task should beentrusted to a VW dealer. Removal of trimsecured with pop rivets requires the heads ofthe rivets to be removed using a drill ofsuitable diameter.

Bodywork and fittings 11.11

24.1 a Remove the screw from the front ofthe seat. . .

24.1b . . . then release the springtensioned pin

24.2a Remove the screw . . .

24.2b . . . and withdraw theinner runner cover

Refitting3 On refitting wheel arch liners and under-panels, renew any retaining clips that mayhave been broken on removal, and ensurethat the panel is securely retained by all therelevant clips and screws. On refitting thebody trim strips and badges, clean the bodysurface before pressing the tape-securedtype, and use new pop rivets when securingthe other type.

Removal

Front seat1 Using an Allen key and spanner, remove thescrew from the front of the seat, then releasethe spring tensioned pin and withdraw theseat f rom the mount ing bracket (seeillustrations).2 Remove the screw and withdraw the innerrunner cover (see illustrations).3 Slide the seat rearwards from the runnersand remove from the car. Where necessarydisconnect the wiring for the seat heating.

Rear bench seat4 Remove the covers and mounting screwsfrom the front of the cushion.5 Lift the rear of the cushion to disengage thehooks then withdraw the cushion.6 Working in the luggage compartment prise

24.8 Squab securing screws(split rear seat)

24.9 Split rear seat central mountingbracket bolt

24.11 Spring clip on thecentre pivot bracket

the backrest upper hooks from the panel, then

7 To remove the seat squab, pull the rear ofthe seats upwards using the plastic pull

withdraw the backrest from the car.

handles provided.8 Tilt the seats right forward, which will allow

Split rear seat

access to the retaining screws. Remove thescrews and lift out the seat squabs (seeillustration).9 The seat backrests may be removed by firstremoving the central mounting bracket bolt(see illustration).10 Operate the seat back release mechanismand tilt the backrest forward.11 Remove the spring clip from the centrepivot bracket (see illustration).12 Now undo the two screws securing eachbackrest to the luggage compartment floor(see illustration).

24.12 Screws securing the split rear seatbackrest to the luggage compartment floor

13 Remove the centre pivot pin, and the seatbacks may be lifted out.

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Refitting

Removal

Front seat belt1 Push the front seat right forward.2 Pull back the plastic cover from the lowerouter seat belt mounting (see illustration).3 Count the number of coils in the spring as aguide for refitting.

11

1 1 .1 2 Bodywork and fittings

25.2 Pull back the cover from the frontseat belt lower mounting

25.4 Unhooking the spring from the frontseat belt lower mounting

25.7 Removing the plastic cover from thefront seat belt upper mounting

25.8 Pull away the weatherstrip beforeremoving the rear trim panel

4 Unhook the spring and gently allow thetension to be released by allowing the springto unwind (see illustration). The spring isnormally tensioned by one complete turn.5 Remove the spring from the retaining bolthead.6 Unscrew the bolt securing the belt to theinner sill panel.7 Prise off the plastic cover from the uppermounting and unscrew the retaining bolt (seeillustration).8 Pull away the weatherstrip locally, thenremove the trim panel from the side of the rearseat for access to the inertia reel (seeillustration). To save time, just the front of thetrim needs to be detached in order to reachthe inertia reel.9 Unscrew the retaining bolt holding theinertia reel in place and remove the seat beltfrom the car (see illustration).

25.9 Front seat belt inertia reelmounting bolt

10 The front seat belt central stalk isremoved by unscrewing the mounting bolt.

Rear seat belt11 The rear seat belts are removed in muchthe same way as the front belts,12 The outer mountings are held by one bolt(see illustration).13 The inner mounting is undone after liftingthe seat squabs (see illustration).14 The inertia reel mechanism is held in placein the double skin of the luggagecompartment, and the upper mounting bolt-isaccessed by removing the plastic cover (seeillustrations).

Refitting15 Refitting is a reversal of removal buttighten the mounting bolts to the specifiedtorque.

25.13 Rear seat belt inner mounting 25.14a Remove the cap for access to therear seat belt inertia reel mounting bolt

25.12 Rear seat belt outer mounting

Interior trim panels1 The interior trim panels are secured usingeither screws or various types of trimfasteners, usually studs or clips,2 Check that there are no other panelsoverlapping the one to be removed; usuallythere is a sequence that has to be followedthat will become obvious on close inspection.3 Remove all obvious fasteners, such asscrews. If the panel will not come free, it isheld by hidden clips or fasteners. These areusually situated around the edge of the paneland can be prised up to release them; note,

Bodywork and fittings 11.13

26.11 Glovebox hinge pins

however that they can break quite easily soreplacements should be available. The bestway of releasing such clips without the correcttype of tool, is to use a large flat-bladedscrewdriver. Note in many cases that theadjacent sealing strip must be prised back torelease a panel.4 When removing a panel, never u s eexcessive force or the panel may bedamaged; always check carefully that allfasteners have been removed or releasedbefore attempting to withdraw a panel.5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure; secure the fasteners by pressingthem firmly into place and ensure that alldisturbed components are correctly securedto prevent rattles.

Carpets6 The passenger compartment floor carpet isin one piece and is secured at its edges byscrews or clips, usually the same fastenersused to secure the various adjoining trimpanels.7 Carpet removal and refitting is reasonablystraightforward but very time-consumingbecause all adjoining trim panels must beremoved first, as must components such asthe seats, the centre console and seat beltlower anchorages.

Headlining8 The headlining is clipped to the roof andcan be withdrawn only once all fittings suchas the grab handles, sun visors, sunroof (iffitted), windscreen and rear quarterwindowsand related trim panels have been removed

27.2 Unclipping the rubber bootfrom the centre console

and the door, tailgate and sunroof aperturesealing strips have been prised clear.9 Note that headlining removal requiresconsiderable skill and experience if it is to becarried out without damage and is thereforebest entrusted to an expert.

Glovebox10 The glovebox forms part of the facia paneland it is only possible to remove the lid.11 Open up the glovebox lid and release thecheck stop, then remove the hinge pins andremove the lid from the facia (seeillustration).12 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Removal1 A centre console is fitted to some models.First disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Unclip and remove the rubber boot fromthe centre console (see illustration). I fnecessary remove the gear lever knob.3 Remove the screws attaching the front of theconsole to the facia panel (see illustration).4 Pull the console to the rear so that theguides are unclipped from the pins on thefloor.5 Withdraw the console from the passengerside and recover the seal. If the gear leverknob was not removed, feed the rubber bootthrough the gear lever hole (see illustration).

27.3 Centre console front mounting screw

6 If necessary remove the retaining plate andthe special nut from the facia.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the seal is correctly located betweenthe console and the facia panel.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Where fitted, remove the centre console asdescribed in Section 27.3 Unscrew the mounting screws and removethe passenger side shelf/trim panel frombeneath the facia panel. Also disconnect thediagnostic socket wiring plugs. Note that a pinon the front of the shelf locates in a rubbergrommet (see illustrations).4 Remove the steering wheel, combinationswitches, and steering lock with reference toChapter 10, Section 16. It is not necessary toremove the steering column completely.5 Remove the instrument panel as describedin Chapter 12.6 Remove the radio as descr ibed inChapter 12.7 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise awaythe trim plate covering the heater controls.8 Unscrew the retaining screws and pull theheater control assembly together with cablesfrom the facia panel.

27.5 Feeding the gear lever rubberthrough the centre console

boot 28.3a Passenger side shelf/trim panel 28.3b Removing the passenger sidemounting screws shelf/trim panel

11.14 Bodywork and fittings

28.3c Disconnecting the diagnostic socketwiring plugs

9 Disconnect the wiring from the switchesand the cigarette lighter, noting the location ofeach wire (see Haynes Hint).

10 Disconnect the loudspeaker wiring fromthe left-hand side of the facia.

28.3d Shelf/trim panel front pinand rubber grommet

11 Unscrew the facia panel lower mountingscrews.12 With the glovebox open, unscrew themounting screw from inside the gloveboxcompartment.13 Unscrew the mounting screw located nextto the steering column (see illustration).14 Working inside the engine compartment,unscrew the two mounting nuts on thebulkhead.15 With the help of an assistant, carefullyease the facia panel away from the bulkheadinto the passenger compartment. As it iswithdrawn, release the wiring harness from itsretaining clips on the rear of the facia, whilst

28.13 Facia panel mounting screwnext to the steering column

noting its correct routing (see Haynes Hint).Feed the heater control panel through the holein the facia, and disconnect the air ducts asnecessary.

Refitting18 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Whenlocating the facia on the bulkhead, insert thecentral pin in the special guide and themounting studs in the holes. Make sure thatall of the air ducts are correctly reconnected.On completion, reconnect the battery andcheck that all the electrical components andswitches function correctly.

12.1

Chapter 12Body electrical systemContentsBattery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 5 Loudspeakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Battery check and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks” Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Bulbs (exterior lights) renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Bulbs (interior lights) renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Reversing light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Electrical fault-finding - general information

.See Chapter 7. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Exterior light units - removal and refittingSpeedometer drive cable - removal and refitting

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Fuses and relays - general information

Stop light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 9. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Switches and cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Headlight beam adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 . . .Headlight washer system components - removal and refitting

Windscreen washer system check and adjustment .See Chapter 1. . . . .15 Washer system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Heated front seat components - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Wiper blade check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . .Horn - removal and refitting

.See “Weekly checks”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . .12

Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Wiper arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Degrees of difficulty

SpecificationsSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bulb ratingsHeadlight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Stoplight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Taillight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Sidelight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Number plate light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12-volt negative earth

See Wiring diagrams at end of Chapter

Watts60/552121545

1 General information andprecautions

Warning: Before carrying outany work on the electricalsystem, read through theprecautions in “Safety first!”and in Chapter 5.

1 The electrical system is of 12 volt negativeearth type. Power for the lights and allelectrical accessories is supplied by alead/acid type battery which is charged by thealternator.2 This Chapter covers repair and serviceprocedures for the var ious e lect r ica lcomponents not associated with the engine.Information on the battery, alternator andstarter motor can be found in Chapter 5.3 It should be noted that prior to working onany component in the electrical system, theignition and all accessories should be

switched off. On circuits which are live with motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakersthe ignition off, the battery negative terminal related to that component, and the wiring andshould first be disconnected to prevent the connectors which link the component to bothpossibility of electrical short circuits and/or the battery and the chassis. To help pinpoint afires. problem in an electrical circuit, wiring

diagrams are included at the end of this

Note: Refer to the precautions given in ‘Safetyfirst!’ and in Section 1 of this Chapter beforestarting work. The following tests relate totesting of the main electrical circuits, andshould not be used to test delicate electroniccircuits (such as anti-lock braking systems),particularly where an electronic controlmodule is used.

General1 A typical electrical circuit consists of anelectrical component, any switches, relays,

Manual.2 Before attempting to diagnose an electricalfault, first study the appropriate wiringdiagram to obtain a complete understandingof the components included in the particularcircuit concerned. The possible sources of afault can be narrowed down by noting if othercomponents related to the circuit areoperating properly. If several components orcircuits fail at one time, the problem is likely tobe related to a shared fuse or earthconnection.3 Electrical problems usually stem fromsimple causes, such as loose or corrodedconnections, a faulty earth connection, ablown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faultyrelay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing

12.2 Body electrical system

relays). Visually inspect the condition of allfuses, wires and connections in a problemcircuit before testing the components. Usethe wiring diagrams to determine whichterminal connections will need to be checkedin order to pinpoint the trouble spot.4 The basic tools required for electrical fault-finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can alsobe used for certain tests); a self-powered testlight (sometimes known as a continuity tester);an ohmmeter (to measure resistance); abattery and set of test leads; and a jumperwire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuseincorporated, which can be used to bypasssuspect wires or electrical components.Before attempting to locate a problem withtest instruments, use the wiring diagram todetermine where to make the connections.5 To find the source of an intermittent wiringfaul t (usual ly due to a poor or d i r tyconnection, or damaged wiring insulation), a‘wiggle’ test can be performed on the wiring.This involves wiggling the wiring by hand tosee if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.It should be possible to narrow down thesource of the fault to a particular section ofwiring. This method of testing can be used inconjunction with any of the tests described inthe following sub-Sections.6 Apa r t f r om p rob lems due t o poo rconnections, two basic types of fault canoccur in an electrical circuit - open circuit, orshort circuit.7 Open circuit faults are caused by a breaksomewhere in the circuit, which preventscurrent from flowing. An open circuit fault willprevent a component from working, but willnot cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.8 Short circuit faults are caused by a “short”somewhere in the circuit, which allows thecurrent flowing in the circuit to “escape” alongan alternative route, usually to earth. Shortcircuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows afeed wire to touch either another wire, or anearthed component such as the bodyshell. Ashort circuit fault will normally cause therelevant circuit fuse to blow.

Finding an open circuit9 To check for an open circuit, connect onelead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to eitherthe negative battery terminal or a known goodearth.10 Connect the other lead to a connector inthe circuit being tested, preferably nearest tothe battery or fuse.11 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind thatsome circuits are live only when the ignitionswitch is moved to a particular position.12 If voltage is present (indicated either bythe tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,as applicable), this means that the section ofthe circuit between the relevant connectorand the battery is problem-free.13 Continue to check the remainder of thecircuit in the same fashion.

14 When a point is reached at which novoltage is present, the problem must liebetween that point and the previous test pointwith voltage. Most problems can be traced toa broken, corroded or loose connection.

Finding a short circuit1 5 To check for a short circuit, f irstdisconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loadsare the components which draw current froma circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heatingelements, etc).16 Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to thefuse connections.17 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind thatsome circuits are live only when the ignitionswitch is moved to a particular position.18 If voltage is present (indicated either bythe tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,as applicable), this means that there is a shortcircuit.19 If no voltage is present, but the fuse stillblows with the load(s) connected, thisindicates an internal fault in the load(s).

Finding an earth fault20 The bat tery negat ive terminal isconnected to “earth” - the metal of theengine/transmission and the car body - andmost systems are wired so that they onlyreceive a positive feed, the current returningthrough the metal of the car body. This meansthat the component mounting and the bodyform part of that circuit. Loose or corrodedmountings can therefore cause a range ofelectrical faults, ranging from total failure of acircuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,lights may shine dimly (especially whenanother circuit sharing the same earth point isin operation), motors (eg. wiper motors or theradiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly,and the operation of one circuit may have anapparently unrelated effect on another. Notethat on many vehicles, earth straps are usedbetween certain components, such as theengine/transmission and the body, usuallywhere there is no metal-to-metal contactbetween components due to flexible rubbermountings, etc.21 To check whether a component isproperly earthed, disconnect the battery andconnect one lead of an ohmmeter to a knowngood earth point. Connect the other lead tothe wire or earth connection being tested. Theresistance reading should be zero; if not,check the connection as follows.22 If an earth connection is thought to befaulty, dismantle the connection and cleanback to bare metal both the bodyshell and thewire terminal or the component earthconnection mating surface. Be careful toremove all traces of dirt and corrosion, thenuse a knife to trim away any paint, so that aclean metal-to-metal joint is made. Onreassembly, tighten the joint fastenerssecurely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,use serrated washers between the terminal

and the bodyshell to ensure a clean andsecure connection. When the connection isremade, prevent the onset of corrosion in thefuture by applying a coat of petroleum jelly orsilicone-based grease or by spraying on (atregular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealeror a water dispersant lubricant.

Main fuses1 The fuses are located beneath the bonneton the le f t -hand s ide of the p lenumchamber/bulkhead. Access is gained bysqueezing the sides of the plastic lid at the topand bottom (see illustration). Take care notto damage the seal.2 The fuse circuits are given in the wiringdiagrams at the end of this Chapter.3 Blown fuses are easily recognised by themetal strip being burnt apart in the centre.Make sure that new fuses are firmly heldbetween the terminals.4 To remove a fuse, first switch off the circuitconcerned (or the ignition), then pull the fuseout of its terminals. The metal strip within thefuse should be visible; if the fuse is blown itwill be broken or melted.5 Always renew a fuse with one of anidentical rating; never use a fuse with adifferent rating from the original or substituteanything else. Never renew a fuse more thanonce without tracing the source of the trouble.The fuse rating is stamped on top of the fuse;note that the fuses are also colour-coded foreasy recognition.6 If a new fuse blows immediately, find thecause before renewing it again; a short toearth as a result of faulty insulation is mostlikely. Where a fuse protects more than onecircuit, try to isolate the defect by switchingon each circuit in turn (if possible) until thefuse blows again. Always carry a supply ofspare fuses of each relevant rating on thevehicle, a spare of each rating should beclipped into the base of the fusebox.

Removing the plasticfrom the fuse box

lid

Body electrical system 12.3

3.7a Relays located beneath the left-handside of the facia panel

Relays7 The main relays are near the fusebox in theleft-hand side of the plenum chamber/bulkhead. Other relays are beneath the left-hand side of the facia panel and behind theECU on the bulkhead (see illustrations).8 If a circuit or system controlled by a relaydevelops a fault and the relay is suspect,operate the system; if the relay is functioningit should be possible to hear it click as it isenergised. If this is the case the fault lies withthe components or wiring of the system. If therelay is not being energised then either therelay is not receiving a main supply or aswitching voltage or the relay itself is faulty.Testing is by the substitution of a known goodunit but be careful; while some relays areidentical in appearance and in operation,others look similar but perform differentfunctions.9 To renew a relay first ensure that the

3.7b Relay located behind the ECUon the bulkhead

ignition switch is off. The relay can thensimply be pulled out from the socket and thenew relay pressed in.

N o t e : Make sure the ignition and allaccessories are switched off before removingany switch. Where switches are live with theignition switched off, disconnect the batterynegative lead before commencing work.

lgnifion switch/steering lock1 Refer to Chapter 10.

Steering column combinationswitches2 Remove the steering wheel as described inChapter 10.

3 Undo the retaining screws and remove thesteering column upper and lower shrouds.4 Slacken and remove the three retainingscrews then disconnect the wiring connectorsand remove both switch assemblies from thesteering column (see illustrations).5 Separate the direction indicator switch fromthe windscreen wiper switch if necessary (seeillustration).6 Refitting is a reversal of removal; refer toChapter 10 when refitting the steering wheel.

Facia-mounted switches7 Most facia-mounted switches may beremoved by careful levering out with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Place a piece of card onthe facia to prevent damage. Some may beremoved by reaching up behind the facia andpressing them out. Where applicable, removethe adjacent blanking cover or the radio inorder to push out the switch from behind (seeillustrations).

4.4a Steering column combination switchretaining screws

4.4b Remove the combination switchfrom the steering column . . .

4.4c . . . and disconnect thewiring connectors

4.5 Separating the direction indicatorswitch from the windscreen wiper switch

4.7a Using a screwdriver to prise out thelighting switch

4.7b Prise out the blanking cover. . . 4.7c . . . and push out the adjacent switch

12.4 Body electrical system

4.8 With the switch removed from thefacia, the wiring plug can be disconnected

4.10 Prising off the heatercontrol panel cover

4.11a Removing the ashtray insertmounting screws

4.11b Disconnecting the wiring plug fromthe rear of the cigarette lighter

4.12a Slide out the bulbholder. . . 4.12b . . . lever the tab . . .

4.12c . . . withdraw the body. . .

8 With the switch removed disconnect thewiring plug from the terminals and removefrom the car. Prevent the wiring slipping backinto the facia using adhesive tape (seeillustration).9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Press theswitch firmly into the facia until the plastictabs hold it in position.

Cigarette lighter10 The cigarette lighter is located on theashtray insert in the centre of the facia. Toremove the lighter first prise off the heatercontrol panel cover using a screwdriver (seeillustration), and remove the centre console(where fitted) with reference to Chapter 11.11 Remove the ashtray, then unscrew themounting screws and withdraw the ashtrayinsert from the facia. At the same timedisconnect the wiring plug from the rear of thelighter (see illustrations).

4.12d . . . and remove the plastic surround

12 Slide the bulbholder from the lighter body,then lever out the tab in order to remove thebody. Remove the plastic surround from theashtray insert (see illustrations).13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Handbrake warning light switch14 Refer to Chapter 9.

Stop light switch15 Refer to Chapter 9.

Courtesy light switches16 Open up the door and unscrew the cross-head screw from the switch.17 Withdraw the switch and disconnect thewiring. Tie a loose knot in the wire to prevent itdropping into the door pillar.18 Check the switch seal for condition andrenew it if necessary.19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

General1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note thefollowing points.

a) Make sure that the relevant circuit isswitched off before starting work.

b) Remember that if the light has just beenin use the bulb may be extremely hot.

c) Always check the bulb contacts andholder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact. Clean off any corrosionor dirt before fitting a new bulb.

d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fittedensure the live contacts bear firmlyagainst the bulb contact.

e) A/ways ensure the new bulb is the correctrating and is completely clean before fitting.

Headlight2 To remove a headlamp bulb first open thebonnet. On G40 models it is necessary toremove the turbocharger inlet in order to gainaccess to the rear of the headlight. Move thehinged cover to the rear and pull it outupwards, then unscrew the crosshead screwand disconnect the inlet from the turbocharger.3 Disconnect the wiring from the rear of theheadlamp bulb (see illustration).4 Remove the rubber dust cap.5 Unhook and release the ends of theretaining clip and remove the bulb from the

Body electrical system 12.5

5.3 Disconnecting the wiring plug from therear of the headlamp bulb

5.5a Release the clips . . . 5.5b . . . and remove the bulb from the rearof the headlight unit

5.10 Removing the front sidelightbulbholder

5.14a Disconnect the wiring . . .

5.14c . . . and remove the front directionindicator bulb

rear of the light unit. Withdraw the bulb (seeillustrations).6 When handling the new bulb, use a tissueor clean cloth to avoid touching the glass withthe fingers; moisture and grease from the skincan cause blackening and rapid failure of thistype of bulb. If the glass is accidentallytouched, wipe it clean using methylated spirit.7 Install the new bulb, ensuring that itslocating tabs are correctly located in the lightcutouts, and secure it in position with theretaining clip8 Refit the rubber dust cap and reconnect thewiring. On G40 models refit the turbochargerinlet.

Front sidelight9 Carry out the procedure in paragraph 2.10 Turn the bulbholder anti-clockwise andremove it from the reflector (see illustration).11 Depress and twist the bulb to remove it. If

5.16 Push the front indicator side repeaterto the rear to remove it

necessary the bulbholder may be removed bydisconnecting the wiring.12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front direction indicator13 Carry out the procedure g iven inparagraph 2.

5.14b . . . then remove the bulbholder. . .

14 Reach down behind the front directionindicator light, alternatively remove theindicator l ight f irst as described later.Disconnect the wi r ing, then turn thebulbholder anticlockwise and withdraw it fromthe light body. Depress and twist the bulb toremove it (see illustrations).15 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure.

Front direction indicator siderepeater16 Push/slide the repeater body to the rear,then withdraw the light from the wing (seeillustration).17 Pull the bulbholder from the body. Thebulb is of the capless (push-fit) type and canbe removed by simply pulling it out of thebulbholder (see illustrations).18 To refit the light, first check the seal andrenew it if necessary. Insert the bulbholder inits guides then locate the light on the wing

5.17a Pull the bulbholder from the body . . . 5.17b . . . then remove the bulb

12.6 Body electrical system

5.24a Squeeze together the plastic tabs . . .

5.24b . . . and remove the rear light cluster bulbholder

5.25 Removing a bulb from the rear lightcluster bulbholder

5.27a Remove the screws. . . 5.27b . . . and remove the rearnumber plate light lens

5.28 Rear number plate light bulb removal

with the front tag in the small hole. Press inthe light until the rear clip engages.

Front foglight19 Apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the car and support on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).20 Reach up behind the front bumper anddisconnect the wiring from the connector plugon the rear cap.21 Turn the cap anticlockwise and withdrawit from the foglamp. Disconnect the wireconnector attached to the bulb.22 Release the clips and withdraw the bulbusing a tissue or clean cloth to avoid touchingthe glass with the fingers; moisture andgrease from the skin can cause blackeningand rapid failure of this type of bulb. If theglass is accidentally touched, wipe it cleanusing methylated spirit.23 Install the new bulb, ensuring that it iscorrectly located. The remaining procedure isa reversal of removal.

Rear light cluster24 From inside the vehic le luggagecompartment, squeeze together the plastictabs and remove the bulbholder from the rearof the light unit (see illustrations).25 Depress and twist the relevant bulb toremove it from the bulbholder (see illustration).The stop/tail light bulb has offset locating pinsto prevent it being installed incorrectly.26 Refitting is the reverse of the removalsequence ensuring that the bulbholder issecurely clipped into position.

Rear number plate light27 Slacken and remove the retaining screwsand withdraw the relevant lens from thetailgate/boot lid (see illustrations). Recoverthe lens seal and examine it for signs ofdamage or deterioration, renewing it ifnecessary.28 The bulb is of the capless (push-fit) typeand can be removed by simply pulling it out ofthe bulbholder (see illustration).29 Press the new bulb into position and refitthe seal and lens. Do not over-tighten the lensretaining screws. Make sure that the lugs onthe lens engage correctly with the holes in thebulbholder otherwise the rear number platelight will not be fully illuminated.

General1 Refer to Section 5, paragraph 1.

Front courtesy light and rearluggage compartment light2 Using a small flat-bladed screwdrivercarefully prise the light unit out of position(see illustration).3 Release the festoon type bulb from the lightunit contacts (see illustration).4 Install the new bulb, ensuring it is securelyheld in position by the contacts, and clip thelight unit back into position.

6.2 Use a screwdriver to carefullyprise out the front courtesy light

6.3 Remove the festoon type bulbfrom the contacts

Body electrical system 12.7

6.6 Removing a bulbholder from the rearof the instrument panel

Instrument panelillumination/warning lights5 Remove the instrument panel (Section 8).6 Twist the re levant bulbholder ant i -clockwise and withdraw it from the rear of thepanel (see illustration).7 All bulbs are integral with their holders. Bevery careful to ensure that the new bulbs areof the correct rating, the same as thoseremoved; this is especially important in thecase of the ignition/battery charging warninglight. Renewal of the light-emitting diodesshould be left to a VW dealer.8 Refit the bulbholder to the rear of theinstrument panel then refit the instrumentpanel as described in Section 8.

Cigarette lighter/ashtrayillumination bulb9 Remove the ashtray insert from the facia asdescribed in Section 4.10 Pull the bulbholder from the rear of thecigarette lighter and separate the bulb.11 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Heater control pane/illumination bulb12 Withdraw the heater control panel asdescribed in Section 9 of Chapter 3 so thataccess to the rear of the panel can be gained.Note there is no need to remove the panelcompletely; the control cables can be leftattached.13 Disconnect the wiring connector thenunclip the bulbholder assembly from the rearof the control panel.

14 Unclip the surround from around the bulbthen carefully pull the bulb out of its holder.15 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Switch illumination bulbs16 All of the switches are fitted withilluminating bulbs; some are also fitted with abulb to show when the circuit concerned isoperating. These bulbs are an integral part ofthe switch assembly and cannot be obtainedseparately. Bulb replacement will thereforerequire the renewal of the complete switchassembly.

Note: Make sure the ignition and allaccessories are swi tched o f f beforecommencing work.

Headlight1 Using a suitable screwdriver, carefullyrelease the radiator grille upper and lowerretaining lugs then move the grille forwardsand away2 Remove the headlight and sidelight bulbsas described in Section 5, then remove thefront direction indicator light as describedlater.3 Remove the headlight mounting screws(cross-head) and ease the unit away from thecrossmember panel (see illustrations).4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front direction indicator light5 Remove the front direction indicator lightbulb as described in Section 5.6 Slide the light unit directly forwards from itsmounting on the side of the headlight unit(see illustration).7 Refitting is a reversal of removal but makesure that the light unit is correctly located inthe slots on the side of the headlight unit.

Front direction indicator siderepeater8 Push/slide the repeater body to the rear,and withdraw the light from the wing.9 Pull the bulbholder from the guides. Tie apiece of string to the wiring to prevent it fallingback into the wing.10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front foglight11 Remove the foglight bulb as described inSection 5.12 Unscrew the mounting bolts and removethe foglight from the front bumper.13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear light cluster14 Remove the rear light bulbholder asdescribed in Section 5.15 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdrawthe light cluster from the rear of the car (seeillustrations).16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Number plate light17 Remove the bulb as described in Section 5.

7.3a The two inner headlightmounting screws

7.3b Withdrawing the headlight from thecrossmember panel

7.6 Slide the front direction indicator lightfrom the headlight unit

7.15a Two of the three rear light clustermounting nuts

7.15b Removing the rear light cluster

12.8 Body electrical system

8.3a Removing the instrument panel 8.3b The special tools are used to hold inwith the special tools the side clips

8.4 Disconnecting the wiring plug from therear of the instrument panel

18 Withdraw the light unit and disconnect itfrom the wiring connector.19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Note: Two special U-shaped tools arerequired in order to remove the instrumentpanel. The too/s are also used to remove theradio and should be available at car accessoryshops.

Removal1 Make sure the ignition and all accessoriesare switched off.2 Remove the steering wheel as described inChapter 10.3 Insert the two special tools fully into theholes located on the right- and left-handedges of the instrument panel. This willrelease the side clips (see illustrations).4 Pull the instrument panel from the facia. Asit is being removed it will be disconnectedfrom the speedometer cable, and finallydisconnect the wiring multi-plug (seeillustration).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Thespecial tools should be removed beforerefitting the instrument panel as the side clipswill engage automatically (see illustration).

8.5 Refitting the instrument panel

Removal1 The horn is located behind the radiatorgrille.2 To remove the horn, first disconnect thebattery negative lead.3 Remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11).4 Unscrew the mounting bolt, disconnect thewires, and withdraw the horn.5 If the horn emits an unsatisfactory sound itmay be possible to adjust it by removing thesealant from the adjusting screw and turning itone way or the other.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Note: It is not necessary to remove theinst rument panel when removing thespeedometer drive cable.

Removal1 Open the bonnet and then reach downbehind the engine and unscrew thespeedometer cable nut from the gearbox.Recover the washer.2 Where necessary for improved access,remove the air cleaner and ducting asdescribed in Chapter 3.3 In the plenum chamber at the rear of theengine compartment, unscrew the plastic nuton t he bu l khead then w i t hd raw thespeedometer cable and rubber grommetthrough the secondary panel and remove itfrom the engine compartment. Release thecable from the clips and cable-ties asnecessary.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal1 Operate the wiper motor then switch it offso that the wiper arm returns to the at-restposition.2 Stick a piece of masking tape along theedge of the wiper blade to use as analignment aid on refitting.3 Lift the hinged cover then slacken andremove the spindle nut and washer (seeillustrations). Lift the blade off the glass andpull the wiper arm off its spindle. If necessaryuse a flat-bladed screwdriver to lever the armoff the spindle.

Refitting4 Ensure that the wiper arm and spindlesplines are clean and dry then refit the arm to

11.3a Lift the hinged cover. . . 11.3b . . . and unscrew thetailgate wiper arm spindle nut

Body electrical system 12.9

12.2a Pull off the weatherstrip . . . 12.2b . . . and remove the plastic coverfrom over the windscreen wiper motor

12.3

2 Wiper blade3 Pull rods4 Wiper bearing5 Windscreen wiper frame6 Parking position7 Wiper motor

the spindle, aligning the wiper blade with thetape fitted on removal. Refit and tighten thespindle nut then close the hinged cover.

3 Mark the wiper motor crank and spindle inrelation to each other, then unscrew the nutand remove the crank from the motor spindle(see illustration).4 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug.5 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the wipermotor from the frame.6 To remove the linkage, unscrew the bearingnuts and remove the spacers.7 Unscrew the frame mounting bolt, thenwithdraw the assembly from the bulkhead.

Removal1 Remove the wiper arms as described in the

Refitting

previous Section. 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when

2 Pull the weatherstrip from the front of the fitting the crank to the spindle (motor inplenum chamber and remove the plastic parked position) make sure that the marks arecover (see illustrations). aligned.

N o t e : Make sure the ignition and a l laccessories are swi tched o f f beforecommencing work.

Removal1 Open the tailgate and carefully prise off theinner trim panel.2 Remove the wiper arm as described inSection 11, then unscrew the spindle outernut and remove the spacers (seeillustrations).

13.2a Unscrew the tailgate wiper motorouter nut . . .

13.2b . . . and remove the spacer

12.10 Body electrical system

13.3a Disconnect the wiring plug . . . 13.3b . . . unscrew the mountingbracket bolts . . .

13.3c . . . and withdraw the motorassembly from the tailgate

3 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrewthe mounting bracket bolts and withdraw themotor assembly (see illustrations). Note thelocation of any spacers and recover therubber grommet from the tailgate.4 If necessary, unscrew the bolts and removethe wiper motor from the mounting bracket(see illustration). Inspect the rubbers forsigns of damage or deterioration and renew ifnecessary.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Washer system reservoir1 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5. Note: Make sure you know theanti-theft code for the radio so that you canre-activate if on refitting.2 Disconnect the wiring connector and thehose(s) from the washer pump.3 Slacken and remove the mounting nuts andlift the reservoir upwards and out of position.On models equipped with headlight washers itwill be necessary to disconnect the wiringconnector and washer hose from theheadlight pump as the reservoir is removed.Wash off any spilt fluid with cold water.4 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuringthat the washer hose(s) are securelyconnected.

13.4 Tailgate wiper motor mountingon the bracket

Washer pump5 Empty the contents of the reservoir or beprepared for fluid spillage as the pump isremoved.6 Remove the battery as described inChapter 5. Note: Make sure you know theanti-theft code for the radio so that you canre-activate it on refitting.7 Disconnect the wiring connector andwasher hose(s) from the pump.8 Carefully ease the pump out from thereservoir and recover its sealing grommet.Wash off any spilt fluid with cold water.9 Refitting is the reverse of removal, using anew sealing grommet if the original one showssigns of damage or deterioration. Refill thereservoir and check the pump grommet forleaks.

Windscreen washer jets10 With the bonnet open first remove theplastic cover from the plenum chamber.Reach under the grille at the bottom of thewindscreen and disconnect the washer hosefrom the base of the jet. Where necessary,also disconnect the wiring connector from thejet. Carefully ease the jet out from the grille,taking great care not to damage thepaintwork.11 On refitting, securely connect the jet tothe hose and clip it into position in the grille;where necessary also reconnect the wiringconnector. Check the operation of the jet. Ifnecessary adjust the nozzle using a pin,aiming the spray to a point slightly above thecentre of the swept area. Finally refit theplastic cover to the plenum chamber.

Washer system reservoir1 Refer to Section 14. Two pumps are fittedto the reservoir, the larger one being theheadlight washer pump.

Washer pump2 Remove the washer reservoir as describedin paragraph 1.3 Carefully ease the pump out from thereservoir and recover its sealing grommet.Wash off any spilt fluid with cold water.4 Refitting is the reverse of removal, using anew sealing grommet if the original one showssigns of damage or deterioration. Refill thereservoir and check the pump grommet forleaks.

Washer jets5 If necessary for improved access to the jetretaining nut, remove the front bumper asdescribed in Chapter 11.6 Disconnect the washer tubing then unscrewthe mounting nut and remove the jet from thebumper.7 Refitting is the reverse of removal makingsure that the washer jets are correctly aimedat the headlight.

Note: The following removal and refittingprocedure is for the range of radio/cassetteunits which VW fit as standard equipment.Removal and refitting procedures of non-standard radio/cassettes will differ slightly.

Removal

Early (pre 1994) models1 The radio/cassette players fitted prior to1994 have DIN standard fixings. Two specialtools, obtainable from most car accessoryshops, are required for removal. Alternativelysuitable tools can be fabricated from 3 mmdiameter wire, such as welding rod.

Body electrical system 12.11

16.3a Fitting the special 16.3b Disconnecting the wiring plugradio removal tools from the radio

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Note:Make sure you know the anti-theft code forthe radio/cassette so that you can re-activateit on refitting.3 Insert the tools into the two holes on eachside of the unit and push them until they snapinto place. The radio/cassette player can thenbe slid out of the facia and the wiringconnectors and aerial disconnected (seeillustrations).

Later (1994 onwards) models

Removal1 The loudspeakers are located at each endof the facia panel. Using a screwdrivercarefully prise the grille from the top of thefacia panel (see illustration).2 Use a screwdriver to depress the tabs, thenwithdraw the loudspeaker from the facia anddisconnect the wiring (see illustrations).

4 The radio/cassette players fitted from 1994onwards have special fixings and two specialVW radio removal tools (No. 3316) arerequired for removal.5 Slide tools into the slots on each side of theunit until they snap into place. Slide the radiosquarely out of position, disconnecting thewiring connector and aerial as they becomeaccessible. To release the removal tools, pushthe locating lugs on the side of the unitinwards

Refitting6 Reconnect the wiring connector and aeriallead then push the unit into the facia until theretaining lugs snap into place.

16.3c Disconnecting the aerialfrom the radio

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal1 The aerial is mounted at the rear of the left-hand side front wing. First jack up the front ofthe car and support on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove theleft-hand front wheel.2 Remove the radio as described in Section16. Also remove the lower shelf from the left-hand side of the facia.

3 Unscrew the screws and remove thewheelarch liner from inside the wheelarch.4 Note the routing of the aerial then withdrawit from the passenger compartment into thewheelarch.5 Unscrew the top nut and remove the aerialfrom under the wing.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Heated front seatcomponents -general information

Heater matsOn models equipped with heated front

seats, a heater pad is fitted to both the seatback and seat cushion. Renewal of eitherheater mat involves peeling back theupholstery, removing the old mat, sticking thenew mat in position and then refitting theupholstery. Note that upholstery removal andrefitting requires considerable skill andexperience if it is to be carried outsuccessfully and is therefore best entrusted toyour VW dealer. In practice, it will be verydifficult for the home mechanic to carry outthe job without ruining the upholstery.

Heated seat switchesRefer to Section 4.

17.1 Use a screwdriver to carefully prisethe loudspeaker grille from the facia panel

17.2a Depress the tabs to release theloudspeaker from the facia

17.2b Disconnecting theloudspeaker wiring

Solenoid actuator

Item no. Wire - permanent positivesupply (double line)

Wire - permanent directearth (thick line)

E6E7E8E9El0E11El2El3El4

Near fuse relay boxBehind dashboard, leftLuggage compartment, leftIn wiring loom for instrumentsIn dashboard loomIn front right wiring loomIn Digifant wiring loomIn boot lidIn front left wiring loom

E20 In Mono jetronic wiring loomE21 In engine compartment wiring loomE22 In dashboard wiringE23 In Mono motronic wiring loomE24 In Mono motronic wiring loomE25 In Mono motronic wiring loomE26 In foglight wiring loomE27 In loom for dash speaker

Denotes example of Denotes example ofstandard terminal connector and

designation contact no.

Fuse colour code

White 8 AmpsRed 16 AmpsYellow 20 Amps

Fuses

Number plate lightsFog lights, rear fog lightsLH side and tail lights, instrument illuminationRH side and tail lights, headlight washerLH main beamRH main beam and warning lightLH dipped beam, LH headlight adjustmentRH dipped beam, RH headlight adjustment

E l

Horn, carburettor idle cut-off valve, reversing lightDirection indicators, seat heatingInterior light, cigar lighter, radio, diagnosis supplyStop lights, clockEngine cooling fanRear wiper, blower, lighting switch lightWindscreen wipers, intermittent wipeHeated rear windowElectric fuel pump, lambda sensor

Diagram 1 : Information for wiring diagrams, starting, charging and engine cooling fan

Reference REF.1Dimensions and weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.1 Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system . . . . . . . . . REF.5

Conversion factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.2 Tools and working facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.6

Buying spare parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF.3 MOT test checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF.8

Vehicle identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.3 Fault finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.12

General repair procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.4 Glossary of technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.19

Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.5 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF.24

Dimensions and weightsNote: All figures are approximate, and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturer’s data for exact figures.

DimensionsOverall length:

Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Coupemodels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Overall width - including mirrors (all models) . . . . . . . .Overall height (unladen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ground clearance at gross vehicle weight:

Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Coupemodels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Turning circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

WeightsKerb weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Maximum gross vehicle weight’* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Maximum roof rack load (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Maximum towing weight**

Braked trailer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum trailer nose weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Minimum trailer nose weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .‘Depending on model and specification.**Refer to WV dealer for exact recommendations.

. . . . . . . . . . . . 3765 mm

. . . . . . . . . . . . 3725 mm

. . . . . . . . . . . . 1765 mm

. . . . . . . . . . . . 1350 mm

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . 765 to 830 kg*

. . . . . . . . . . . . 1230 to 1250 kg*

. . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

117 mm95 mm10m

650 kg*410 kg*50 kg4% of actual trailer weight (up to 25 kg)

Length (distance)Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm)Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m)Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km)

Volume (capacity)Cubic inches (cu in; in³)Imperial pints (Imp pt)Imperial quarts (Imp qt)Imperial quarts (Imp qt)US quarts (US qt)Imperial gallons (Imp gal)Imperial gallons (Imp gal)US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3)x 0.568 = Litres (I)x 1.137 = Litres (I)x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt)x 0.946 = Litres (I)x 4.546 = Litres (I)x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal)x 3.785 = Litres (I)

Ounces (oz)Pounds (lb)

Force

x 28.35 = Grams (g)x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)

Ounces-force (ozf; oz)Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)Newtons (N)

PressurePounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in² Ib/in2)Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in²; lb/in²)Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in²; lb/in²)Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ib/in²; lb/in²)Kilopascals (kPa)

x 0.278 = Newtons (N)x 4.448 = Newtons (N)x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per squarecentimetre (kgf/cm²; kg/cm2)

x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm)

x 0.069 = Bars

x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)

Millibar (mbar)Millibar (mbar)

x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per squarecentimetre (kgf/cm²; kg/cm2)

x 100 = Pascals (Pa)x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in2; Ib/inz)Millibar (mbar)Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)Inches of water (in H2O)

x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH²O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)

x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH20) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (in H2o)(psi; Ibf/in²; lb/in²)

x 0.0394 = Inches (in)x 3.281 = Feet (ft)x 0.621 = Miles

x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in: in3)x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)x 0.225 = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in²; Ib/in²)

x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi;lbs/in² ;lb/in² )

x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch

x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch

x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

Torque (moment of force)Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in)Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)Newton metres (Nm)

x 1 .152 = Kilograms-force centimetre(kgf cm; kg cm)

x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm)

x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres(kgf m; kg m

x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm)x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres

(kgf m; kg m)

x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in)

x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in)

x 12 = Pounds-force inches(Ibf in: lb in)

x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

PowerHorsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperaturex 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres {l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

Buying spare parts REF.3Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from manysources, including maker’s appointedgarages, accessory shops, and motor factors.To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, itwill sometimes be necessary to quote thevehicle identification number. If possible, itcan also be useful to take the old parts alongfor positive identification. Items such asstarter motors and alternators may beavailable under a service exchange scheme -any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources isas follows.

Officially-appointed garagesThis is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and which are nototherwise generally available (eg badges,interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It isalso the only place at which you should buyparts if the vehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shopsThese are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for the

maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuelfilters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oilsand greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).Components of this nature sold by areputable shop are of the same standard asthose used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also selltools and general accessories, usually haveconvenient opening hours, charge lowerprices, and can often be found not far fromhome. Some accessory shops have partscounters where the components needed foralmost any repair job can be purchased orordered.

Motor factors

Good factors will stock all the moreimportant components which wear outcomparatively quickly, and can sometimessupply individual components needed for theoverhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake sealsand hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,valves, alternator brushes). They may alsohandle work such as cylinder block reboring,crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialistsThese outlets may be independent, or

members of a local or national chain. Theyfrequently offer competitive prices whencompared with a main dealer or local garage,but it will pay to obtain several quotes beforemaking a decision. When researching prices,also ask what “extras” may be added - forinstance, fitting a new valve and balancing thewheel are both commonly charged on top ofthe price of a new tyre.

Other sourcesBeware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.Such items are not invariably sub-standard,but there is little chance of compensation ifthey do prove unsatisfactory. In the case ofsafety-critical components such as brakepads, there is the risk not only of financial lossbut also of an accident causing injury or death.

Second-hand components or assembliesobtained from a car breaker can be a goodbuy in some circumstances, but this sort ofpurchase is best made by the experiencedDIY mechanic.

Vehicle identificationModi f icat ions are a cont inuing and When ordering spare parts, always give as number is stamped below the lip of the engine

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture, much information as possible. Quote the car bay bulkhead. (see illustration).quite apart from major model changes. Spare model, year of manufacture, body and engine The engine number is stamped on theparts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numbers as appropriate. cylinder block, below the ignition distributornumerical basis, the individual vehicle identifi- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) flange (see illustration). In addition, a barcation numbers being essential to correct plate is situated on the front engine bay panel, code label attached to the timing belt coveridentification of the component concerned. to the right of the bonnet lock. The chassis contains engine code information.

VIN plate (1) and chassis number (2) locations Engine number and engine code locations (arrowed)

REF.4 General repair proceduresWhenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components, itis necessary to observe the followingprocedures and instructions. This will assist incarrying out the operation efficiently and to aprofessional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gasketsWhen separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers orsimilar implements into the joint between thefaces in order to prise them apart. This cancause severe damage which results in oilleaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.Separation is usually achieved by tappingalong the joint with a soft-faced hammer inorder to break the seal. However, note thatthis method may not be suitable wheredowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the matingfaces of two components, ensure that it isrenewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unlessotherwise stated in the repair procedure. Makesure that the mating faces are clean and dry,with all traces of old gasket removed. Whencleaning a joint face, use a tool which is notlikely to score or damage the face, and removeany burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleanedwith a pipe cleaner, and keep them free ofjointing compound, if this is being used,unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipesare clear, and blow through them, preferablyusing compressed air.

Oil sealsOil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver orsimilar tool. Alternatively, a number of self-tapping screws may be screwed into the seal,and these used as a purchase for pliers orsimilar in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from itsworking location, either individually or as partof an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easilydamaged, and will not seal if the surface itcontacts is not completely clean and free fromscratches, nicks or grooves. If the originalsealing surface of the component cannot berestored, and the manufacturer has not madeprovision for slight relocation of the sealrelative to the sealing surface, the componentshould be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surfacewhich may damage them in the course offitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve wherepossible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil beforefitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the spacebetween the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must befitted with their sealing lips toward thelubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of theappropriate size to install the seal and, if theseal housing is shouldered, drive the sealdown to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unlessotherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fasteningsSeized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has setin, and the use of penetrating oil or releasingfluid will often overcome this problem if theoffending item is soaked for a while beforeattempting to release it. The use of an impactdriver may also provide a means of releasingsuch stubborn fastening devices, when usedin conjunction with the appropriatescrewdriver bit or socket. If none of thesemethods works, it may be necessary to resortto the careful application of heat, or the use ofa hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking twonuts together on the threaded part, and thenusing a spanner on the lower nut to unscrewthe stud. Studs or bolts which have broken offbelow the surface of the component in whichthey are mounted can sometimes be removedusing a stud extractor. Always ensure that ablind tapped hole is completely free from oil,grease, water or other fluid before installingthe bolt or stud. Failure to do this could causethe housing to crack due to the hydraulicaction of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accepta split pin, tighten the nut to the specifiedtorque, where applicable, and then tightenfurther to the next split pin hole. Neverslacken the nut to align the split pin hole,unless stated in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or boltto a specified torque setting, slacken the nutor bolt by a quarter of a turn, and thenretighten to the specified setting. However,this should not be attempted where angulartightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notablycylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrenchsettings are no longer specified for the latterstages of tightening, “angle-tightening” beingcalled up instead. Typically, a fairly low torquewrench setting will be applied to thebolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followedby one or more stages of tightening throughspecified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washersAny fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tighteningshould always have a washer between it andthe relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always berenewed when they are used to lock a criticalcomponent such as a big-end bearingretaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which arefolded over to retain a nut or bolt shouldalways be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be feltwhen the locking portion passes over the boltor stud thread. However, it should be notedthat self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, andshould be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced withnew ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is foundon the threads of a fastener which is to be re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wirebrush and solvent, and fresh compoundapplied on reassembly.

Special toolsSome repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,two or three-legged pullers, springcompressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitablereadily-available al ternat ives to themanufacturer’s special tools are described,and are shown in use. In some instances,where no alternative is possible, it has beennecessary to resort to the use of amanufacturer’s tool, and this has been donefor reasons of safety as well as the efficientcompletion of the repair operation. Unless youare highly-skilled and have a thoroughunderstanding of the procedures described,never attempt to bypass the use of anyspecial tool when the procedure describedspecifies its use. Not only is there a very greatrisk of personal injury, but expensive damagecould be caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerationsWhen disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration toany detrimental environmental effects. Do not,for instance, pour any of the above liquidsdown drains into the general sewage system,or onto the ground to soak away. Many localcouncil refuse tips provide a facility for wasteoil disposal, as do some garages. If none ofthese facilities are available, consult your localEnvironmental Health Department, or theNational Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal t ightening-up oflegislation regarding the emission of environ-mentally-harmful substances from motorvehicles, most current vehic les havetamperproof devices fitted to the mainadjustment points of the fuel system. Thesedevices are primarily designed to preventunqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/airmixture, with the chance of a consequentincrease in toxic emissions. If such devicesare encountered during servicing or overhaul,they should, wherever possible, be renewedor refitted in accordance with the vehiclemanufacturer’s requirements or currentlegislation.

Jacking and vehicle support REF.5The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit To raise the front of the vehicle, position the To raise the rear of the vehicle, position the

should only be used for changing the jack with an interposed block of wood jack with an interposed block of woodroadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the underneath. Do not jack the vehicle under the underneath. Do not attempt to raise thefront of this book. When carrying out any sill, sump, or any of the steer ing orother kind of work, raise the vehicle using a suspension components. With the vehicle

vehicle with the jack positioned underneath

hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always raised, an axle stand should be positionedthe floor pan or axle. With the vehicle raised,

supplement the jack with axle stands beneath the vehicle jack location point on thean axle stand should be positioned beneath

positioned under the vehicle jacking points. sill. Position a block of wood with a groove cutthe vehicle jacking location point on the sill.

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands, in it on the jack head to prevent the vehicle Position a grooved block of wood on the jack

always position the jack head or axle stand weight resting on the sill edge; align the sill as described in the previous paragraph.

head under one of the relevant jacking points, edge with the groove in the wood so that the Never work under, around, or near a raised

indicated by indentations at the lower edges vehicle weight is spread evenly over the vehicle, unless it is adequately supported onof the bodywork (see illustrations). surface of the block stands.

Workshop hoist/trolley jacking point for the front of the vehicle Workshop hoist/trolley jacking point for the rear of the vehicle

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precautionThe radio/cassette unit may be equipped security code has been entered. Therefore, if To enter the security code, follow the

with a built-in security code, to deter thieves. you do not know the correct security code for instructions in the radio/cassette handbook.If the power source to the unit is cut, the anti-

the radio/cassette unit do not disconnectIf an incorrect code is entered, the unit will

theft system will activate. Even if the power become locked, and cannot be operated.source is immediately reconnected, the radio/ either of the battery terminals, or remove the If this happens, or if the security code is lostcassette unit will not function until the correct radio/cassette unit from the vehicle. or forgotten, seek the advice of your dealer.

REF.6 Tools and working facilitiesintroduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamentalrequirement for anyone contemplating themaintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.For the owner who does not possess any,their purchase will prove a considerableexpense, offsetting some of the savings madeby doing-it-yourself. However, provided thatthe tools purchased meet the relevant nationalsafety standards and are of good quality, theywill last for many years and prove anextremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide whichtools are needed to carry out the various tasksdetailed in this manual, we have compiledthree lists of tools under the followingheadings: Maintenance and minor repair,Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomersto practical mechanics should start off withthe Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, andconfine themselves to the simpler jobs aroundthe vehicle. Then, as confidence andexperience grow, more difficult tasks can beundertaken, with extra tools being purchasedas, and when, they are needed. In this way, aMaintenance and minor repair tool kit can bebuilt up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit overa considerable period of time, without anymajor cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough formost repair and overhaul procedures, and willadd tools from the Special category when it isfelt that the expense is justified by the amountof use to which these tools will be put.

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Maintenanceand minor repair too/ kit

The tools given in this list should beconsidered as a minimum requirement ifroutine maintenance, servicing and minorrepair operations are to be undertaken. Werecommend the purchase of combinationspanners (ring one end, open-ended theother); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages ofboth types of spanner.q Combination spanners:

Valve spring compressor

Spline bit set Piston ring compressor

Repair and overhaul tool kit

Clutch plate alignment set

Tools and working facilities REF.7Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are notused regularly, are expensive to buy, or whichneed to be used in accordance with theirmanufacturers’ instructions. Unless relativelydifficult mechanical jobs are undertakenfrequently, it will not be economic to buymany of these tools. Where this is the case,you could consider clubbing together withfriends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make ajoint purchase, or borrowing the tools againsta deposit from a local garage or tool hirespecialist. It is worth noting that many of thelarger DIY superstores now carry a largerange of special tools for hire at modest rates.

Stroboscopic timing light

Buying toolsReputable motor accessory shops and

superstores often offer excellent quality toolsat discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the mostexpensive items on the shelf, but it is alwaysadvisable to steer clear of the very cheaptools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on marketstalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty ofgood tools around at reasonable prices, butalways aim to purchase items which meet therelevant national safety standards. If in doubt,ask the proprietor or manager of the shop foradvice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of toolsHaving purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean andserviceable condition. After use, always wipeoff any dirt, grease and metal particles using aclean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.Never leave them lying around after they havebeen used. A simple tool rack on the garageor workshop wal l for i tems such asscrewdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Storeall normal spanners and sockets in a metalbox. Any measuring instruments, gauges,meters, etc, must be carefully stored wherethey cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.Hammer heads inevitably become marked,and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on theirblades from time to time. A little timelyattention with emery cloth or a file will soonrestore items like this to a good finish.

Working facilitiesNot to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more thanroutine maintenance is to be carried out, asuitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-mechanic is forced by circumstances toremove an engine or similar item without thebenefit of a garage or workshop. Having donethis, any repairs should always be done underthe cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling shouldbe done on a clean, flat workbench or table ata suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jawopening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.As mentioned previously, some clean drystorage space is also required for tools, as wellas for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-uppaints etc, which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, andwhich has a much more general usage, is anelectric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8mm. This, together with a good range of twistdrills, is virtually essential for f itt ingaccessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply ofold newspapers and clean, lint-free ragsavailable, and try to keep any working area asclean as possible.

Micrometer set Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)

Compression tester Stud extractor set

REF.8 MOT test checksThis is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the samestandard as the professional MOT tester. However, working throughthe following checks will enable you to identify any problem areasbefore submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the testerhas discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of suchdiscretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative orfriend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If thevehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester maybe more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle isscruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standardsare becoming increasingly stringent, although there are someexemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynespublication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

1 Checks carried out 2 Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’S WITH THE VEHICLESEAT ON THE GROUND

3 Checks carried out 4 Checks carried out onWITH THE VEHICLE YOUR VEHICLE’SRAISED AND THE EXHAUST EMlSSlONWHEELS FREE TO SYSTEMTURN

1 Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

0 Test the operation of the handbrake.Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicatesincorrect brake or cable adjustment.0 Check that the handbrake cannot bereleased by tapping the lever sideways. Checkthe security of the lever mountings.

Footbrake0 Depress the brake pedal and check that itdoes not creep down to the floor, indicating amaster cylinder fault. Release the pedal, waita few seconds, then depress it again. If thepedal travels nearly to the floor before firmresistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair isnecessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there isair in the hydraulic system which must beremoved by bleeding.

0 Check that the brake pedal is secure and ingood condition. Check also for signs of fluidleaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, whichwould indicate failed seals in the brake mastercylinder.0 Check the servo unit (when applicable) byoperating the brake pedal several times, thenkeeping the pedal depressed and starting theengine. As the engine starts, the pedal willmove down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose orthe servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column0 Examine the steering wheel for fractures orlooseness of the hub, spokes or rim.0 Move the steering wheel from side to sideand then up and down. Check that thesteering wheel is not loose on the column,indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.Continue moving the steering wheel as before,but also turn it slightly from left to right.0 Check that the steering wheel is not looseon the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicatingwear in the column support bearings orcouplings.

Windscreen and mirrors0 The windscreen must be free of cracks orother significant damage within the driver’sfield of view. (Small stone chips areacceptable.) Rear view mirrors must besecure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

MOT test checks REF.9

Seat belts and seatsNote: The following checks are applicable toall seat belts, front and rear

0 Examine the webbing of all the belts(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, seriousfraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasteneach belt to check the buckles. If applicable,check the retracting mechanism. Check thesecurity of all seat belt mountings accessiblefrom inside the vehicle.q The front seats themselves must besecurely attached and the backrests mustlock in the upright position.

Doors0 Both front doors must be able to be openedand closed from outside and inside, and mustlatch securely when closed.

2 Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE ON THEGROUND

Vehicle identification0 Number plates must be in good condition,secure and legible, with letters and numberscorrectly spaced - spacing at (A) should betwice that at (B).

0 The VIN plate and/or homologation platemust be legible.

Electrical equipmentq Switch on the ignition and check theoperation of the horn.0 Check the windscreen washers and wipers,examining the wiper blades; renew damagedor perished blades. Also check the operationof the stop-lights.

0 Inspect both front brake flexible hoses forcracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn thesteering from lock to lock, and ensure that thehoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or anypart of the steering or suspension mechanism.With the brake pedal firmly depressed, checkthe hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

0 Check the operation of the sidelights andnumber plate lights, The lenses and reflectorsmust be secure, clean and undamaged.0 Check the operation and alignment of theheadlights. The headlight reflectors must notbe tarnished and the lenses must beundamaged.q Switch on the ignition and check theoperation of the direction indicators (includingthe instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazardwarning lights. Operation of the sidelights andstop-lights must not affect the indicators - if itdoes, the cause is usually a bad earth at therear light cluster.Cl Check the operation of the rear foglight(including the warning light on the instrumentpanel or in the switch.

Footbrakeq Examine the master cylinder, brake pipesand servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,corrosion or other damage.

0 The fluid reservoir must be secure and thefluid level must be between the upper (A) andlower (B) markings.

Steering and suspension0 Have your assistant turn the steering wheelfrom side to side slightly, up to the point wherethe steering gear just begins to transmit thismovement to the roadwheels. Check forexcessive free play between the steeringwheel and the steering gear, indicating wear orinsecurity of the steering column joints, thecolumn-to-steering gear coupling, or thesteering gear itself.0 Have your assistant turn the steering wheelmore vigorously in each direction, so that theroadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,examine all the steering joints, linkages,fittings and attachments. Renew anycomponent that shows signs of wear ordamage. On vehicles with power steering,check the security and condition of thesteering pump, drivebelt and hoses.0 Check that the vehicle is standing level,and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers0 Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,then release it. The vehicle should rise andthen settle in its normal position. If the vehiclecontinues to rise and fall, the shock absorberis defective. A shock absorber which hasseized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

REF.10 MOT test checks

Exhaust system0 Start the engine. With your assistantholding a rag over the tailpipe, check theentire system for leaks. Repair or renewleaking sections.

3 Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE RAISEDAND THE WHEELS FREE TOTURN

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,and securely support it on axle stands.Position the stands clear of the suspensionassemblies. Ensure that the wheels arec/ear of the ground and that the steeringcan be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism0 Have your assistant turn the steering fromlock to lock. Check that the steering turnssmoothly, and that no part of the steeringmechanism, including a wheel or tyre, foulsany brake hose or pipe or any part of the bodystructure.0 Examine the steering rack rubber gaitersfor damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.If power steering is fitted, check for signs ofdamage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes orconnections. Also check for excessivestiffness or binding of the steering, a missingsplit pin or locking device, or severe corrosionof the body structure within 30 cm of anysteering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension andwheel bearings0 Starting at the front right-hand side, graspthe roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clockpositions and shake it vigorously. Check forfree play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-ings, pivots and attachments.0 Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions and repeat the previousinspection. Spin the wheel, and check forroughness or tightness of the front wheelbearing.

0 If excess free play is suspected at acomponent pivot point, this can be confirmedby using a large screwdriver or similar tool andlevering between the mounting and thecomponent attachment. This will confirmwhether the wear is in the pivot bush, itsretaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the boltholes can often become elongated).

0 Carry out all the above checks at the otherfront wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers0 Examine the suspension struts (whenapplicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,or damage to the casing. Also check thesecurity of the mounting points.q If coil springs are fitted, check that thespring ends locate in their seats, and that thespring is not corroded, cracked or broken.0 If leaf springs are fitted, check that allleaves are intact, that the axle is securelyattached to each spring, and that there is nodeterioration of the spring eye mountings,bushes, and shackles.

0 The same general checks apply to vehiclesfitted with other suspension types, such astorsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.Ensure that all mountings and attachments aresecure, that there are no signs of excessivewear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulictypes) that there are no fluid leaks or damagedpipes.0 Inspect the shock absorbers for signs ofserious fluid leakage. Check for wear of themounting bushes or attachments, or damageto the body of the unit.

Driveshafis(fwd vehicles only)q Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspectthe constant velocity joint gaiters for splits ordamage. Also check that each driveshaft isstraight and undamaged.

Braking system0 If possible without dismantling, checkbrake pad wear and disc condition. Ensurethat the friction lining material has not wornexcessively, (A) and that the discs are notfractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

0 Examine al l the r ig id brake pipesunderneath the vehicle, and the flexiblehose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafingor insecurity of the pipes, and for signs ofbulging under pressure, chafing, splits ordeterioration of the flexible hoses.q Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brakecalipers or on the brake backplates. Repair orrenew leaking components.0 Slowly spin each wheel, while yourassistant depresses and releases thefootbrake. Ensure that each brake is operatingand does not bind when the pedal is released.

MOT test checks Ref.11

0 Examine the handbrake mechanism,checking for frayed or broken cables,excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity ofthe linkage. Check that the mechanism workson each relevant wheel, and releases fully,without binding.0 It is not possible to test brake efficiencywithout special equipment, but a road test canbe carried out later to check that the vehiclepulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systems• Inspect the fuel tank (including the fillercap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. Allcomponents must be secure and free fromleaks.0 Examine the exhaust system over its entirelength, checking for any damaged, broken ormissing mountings, security of the retainingclamps and rust or corrosion.

Wheels and tyresq Examine the sidewalls and tread area ofeach tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,bulges, separation of the tread, and exposureof the ply or cord due to wear or damage.Check that the tyre bead is correctly seatedon the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

properly seated, and that the wheel is notdistorted or damaged.0 Check that the tyres are of the correct sizefor the vehicle, that they are of the same sizeand type on each axle, and that the pressuresare correct.0 Check the tyre tread depth. The legalminimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm overat least three-quarters of the tread width.Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrectfront wheel alignment.

Body corrosion0 Check the condition of the entire vehiclestructure for signs of corrosion in load-bearingareas. (These include chassis box sections,side sills, cross-members, pillars, and allsuspension, steering, braking system andseat belt mountings and anchorages.) Anycorrosion which has seriously reduced thethickness of a load-bearing area is likely tocause the vehicle to fail. In this caseprofessional repairs are likely to be needed.•! Damage or corrosion which causes sharpor otherwise dangerous edges to be exposedwill also cause the vehicle to fail.

Petrol models0 Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature, and make sure that it is in goodtune (ignition system in good order, air filterelement clean, etc).0 Before any measurements are carried out,raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhausttailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously muchtoo high, or if dense blue or clearly-visibleblack smoke comes from the tailpipe for morethan 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a ruleof thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt(engine wear) while black smoke signifiesunburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or othercarburettor or fuel system fault).q An exhaust gas analyser capable ofmeasuring carbon monoxide (CO) andhydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such aninstrument cannot be hired or borrowed, alocal garage may agree to perform the checkfor a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture)0 At the time of writing, the maximum COlevel at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used afterAugust 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.From January 1996 a much tighter limit(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equippedvehicles first used from August 1992. If theCO level cannot be reduced far enough topass the test (and the fuel and ignitionsystems are otherwise in good condition) thenthe carburettor is badly worn, or there is someproblem in the fuel injection system orcatalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissionsq With the CO emissions within limits, HCemissions must be no more than 1200 ppm(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this testat idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, thiscounts as a pass.0 Excessive HC emissions can be caused byoil being burnt, but they are more likely to bedue to unburnt fuel.

Diesel modelsq The only emission test applicable to Dieselengines is the measuring of exhaust smokedensity. The test involves accelerating theengine several times to its maximumunloaded speed.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that theengine timing belt is in good condition beforethe test is carried out.

Cl Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirtyair cleaner element. Otherwise, professionaladvice may be needed to find the cause.

REF.12 Fault finding

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..........1 Driveshafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , , . , . . . 6Engine fails to rotate when attempting to startEngine rotates, but will not startEngine difficult to start when coldEngine difficult to start when hotStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagementEngine starts, but stops immediatelyEngine idles erraticallyEngine misfires at idle speedEngine misfires throughout the driving speed rangeEngine hesitates on accelerationEngine stallsEngine lacks powerEngine backfiresOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine runningEngine runs-on after switching offEngine noises

0 Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)0 Vibratlon when accelerating or decelerating

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7q Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingq Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied0 Excessive brake pedal travel0 Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed0 Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle0 Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking• Brakes binding0 Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Suspension and steering systems . . . . . . .80 Vehicle pulls to one side0 Wheel wobble and vibration

Cooling system 2 0 Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . braking

0 Overheating 0 Wandering or general instability0 Overcooling 0 Excessively-stiff steering0 External coolant leakage q Excessive play in steering0 Internal coolant leakage 0 Lack of power assistance0 Corrosion 0 Tyre wear excessive

0 Excessive fuel consumptionFuel and exhaust systems

0

........................ .3

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour0 Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few daysIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine

Electrical system

running

. . . . . . . . .............9

Clutch0 Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance0 Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)0 Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle

s p e e d )0

q Judder as clutch is engaged 0q Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

0 Noisy in neutral with engine running0 Noisy in one particular gear0 Difficulty engaging gearsq Jumps out of gear0 Vibration0 Lubricant leaks

Introduction

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come onLights inoperativeInstrument readings inaccurate or erraticHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operationWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory inoperationWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory inoperationElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance accordingto the recommended service schedules should not have to use thissection of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is suchthat, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration areinspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure iscomparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result ofsudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanicalfailures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptomsover hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components whichdo occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carriedin the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a

little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half adozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful incuring a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the faultrecurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than wasnecessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be moresatisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warningsigns or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the periodpreceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusualsmells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses orspark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the morecommon problems which may occur during the operation of thevehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under

Fault finding REF.13headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with theproblem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basicprinciples apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you knowwhat the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularlyimportant if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who maynot have described it very accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, isthere petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particularpoint, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault isindicated, look for loose or broken wires before using the test gear.

1 Engine

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with afully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if theunderlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the sameway. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will getyou moving again, but the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply anincorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattlingaround in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of afault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted.When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realisethat all the evidence was there from the start.

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start0 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).0 Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5A).0 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit

(Chapter 5A).0 Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5A).q Defective starter motor (Chapter 5A).0 Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken

(Chapters 2A, 2B and 5A).q Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5A).

Engine rotates, but will not start0 Fuel tank empty!0 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5A).q Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).0 Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5B).0 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5B).0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).0 Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Major mechanical failure (eg timing belt) (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Engine difficult to start when cold0 Battery discharged (Chapter 5A).0 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).0 Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).q Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).

Engine difficult to start when hot0 Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).q Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough inengagement0 Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken

(Chapters 2A, 2B and 5A).0 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5A).0 Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5A).

Engine starts, but stops immediately0 Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5B).0 Vacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold

(Chapter 4A or 4B).

Engine idles erratically• Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).0 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).0 Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).0 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2B).0 Timing belt incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2A).0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

Engine misfires at idle speedq Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).0 Faulty spark plug HT leads - (Chapter 1).0 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 1).q Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).q Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses

(Chapter 4C).

Engine misfires throughoutthe driving speed rangeq Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).0 Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).q Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).Cl Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).0 Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).0 Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 1).q Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5B).0 Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

Engine hesitates on acceleration0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).0 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).q Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

Engine stallsCl Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).q Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).q Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).

0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B). 0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

REF.14 Fault finding

1 Engine (continued)Engine lacks power0 Timing belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).0 Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).q Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Clutch slipping (Chapter 6).

Engine backfires0 Timing belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

Oil pressure warning light illuminatedwith engine running0 Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (“Weekly checks”).q Faulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 5A).0 Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2C).0 High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).0 Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Engine runs-on after switching off0 Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2C).0 High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).0 Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

2 Cooling system

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knockingduring acceleration or under load0 Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).0 Incorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).0 Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).q Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2C).0 Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).

Whistling or wheezing noises

0 Leaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint

(Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).0 Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B,4C, 5B and 9).q Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Tapping or rattling noises

0 Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc)

(Chapters 3, 5A, etc).

Knocking or thumping noises

q

q

qq

Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps lessunder load) (Chapter 2B).Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worseningunder load) (Chapter 2B).Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2B).Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc)(Chapters 3, 5A, etc).

Overheating0 Insufficient coolant in system (“Weekly checks”).q Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).q Radiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).0 Electric cooling fan or thermoswitch faulty (Chapter 3).0 Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).0 Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).0 Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).0 Airlock in cooling system (Chapter 1).

Overcoolingq Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).0 Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).

External coolant leakage0 Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).q Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).q Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).0 Water pump seal leaking (Chapter 3).0 Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).0 Core plug leaking (Chapter 2B).

Internal coolant leakage0 Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Corrosion0 Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).0 Incorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).

Fault finding REF.15

3 Fuel and exhaust systemsExcessive fuel consumption Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust systemq Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).0 Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B).0 Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).0 Tyres under-inflated (Weekly checks”).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour0 Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections

(Chapter 4A or 4B).

0 Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints(Chapters 1 and 4A or 4B).

0 Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe(Chapters 1 and 4A or 4B).

0 Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact(Chapter 1).

4 ClutchPedal travels to floor -no pressure or very little resistance0 Broken clutch cable - cable-operated clutch (Chapter 6).0 Incorrect clutch cable adjustment/automatic adjuster faulty -

cable-operated clutch (Chapter 6).0 Broken clutch release bearing or fork (Chapter 6).0 Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)0

0

0000

5

Incorrect clutch cable adjustment/automatic adjuster faulty(Chapter 6).Incorrect clutch cable adjustment/automatic adjuster faulty(Chapter 6).Clutch disc sticking on gearbox input shaft splines (Chapter 6).Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).Clutch release mechanism worn or poorly assembled (Chapter 6).

Manual transmission

Clutch slips (engine speed increases,with no increase in vehicle speed)0 Incorrect clutch cable adjustment/automatic adjuster faulty -

cable-operated clutch (Chapter 6).0 Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).0 Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).0 Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Judder as clutch is engaged0 Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).q Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).0 Clutch cable sticking or frayed (Chapter 6).q Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).0 Worn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2A or 2B).0 Clutch disc hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn (Chapter 6).

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal0 Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).q Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6).q Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).0 Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).0 Broken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

Noisy in neutral with engine running0 Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A).*q Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Noisy in one particular gear0 Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7).*

Difficulty engaging gears0 Clutch fault (Chapter 6).0 Worn or damaged gearchange linkage/cable (Chapter 7).0 Incorrectly-adjusted gearchange linkage/cable (Chapter 7).0 Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7).*

Jumps out of gear0 Worn or damaged gearchange linkage/cable (Chapter 7).0 Incorrectly-adjusted gearchange linkage/cable (Chapter 7).0 Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7).*q Worn selector forks (Chapter 7).*

Vibration0 Lack of oil (Chapter 1).0 Worn bearings (Chapter 7).*

Lubricant leaks0 Leaking differential output oil seal (Chapter 7).0 Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7).*0 Leaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7).*

‘A/though the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptomsdescribed is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the aboveinformation should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, sothat the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

REF.16 Fault finding

6 DriveshaftsClicking or knocking noise on turns Vibration when accelerating or decelerating(at slow speed on full-lock) 0 Worn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).0 Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged 0 Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).

gaiter (Chapter 8).0 Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

7 Braking systemNote: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that thetyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheelalignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in anunequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe andhose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking systemshould be referred to a VW dealer for diagnosis.

Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingq

q

q

qq

Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated brake pads/shoes onone side (Chapters 1 and 9).Seized or partially-seized front brake caliper/wheel cylinder piston(Chapters 1 and 9).A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides(Chapters 1 and 9).Brake caliper or backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).Worn or damaged steering or suspension components(Chapters 1 and 10).

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal)when brakes applied0 Brake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal

backing (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum. (May be apparent after

the vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Foreign object (stone chipping, etc) trapped between brake disc

and shield (Chapters 1 and 9).

Excessive brake pedal travel0

q

0

Inoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism - drum brakes(Chapters 1 and 9).Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).Air in hydraulic system (Chapters 1 and 9).Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).

8 Suspension and steering

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed0 Air in hydraulic system (Chapters 1 and 9).q Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).0 Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effortrequired to stop vehicle

Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose(Chapter 9).Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted (Chapters 1 and 9).Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted(Chapters 1 and 9).Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated(Chapters 1 and 9).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheelwhen braking0 Excessive run-out or distortion of discs/drums (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Brake caliper or brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).0 Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings

(Chapters 1 and 10).

Brakes binding0 Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).0 Incorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).0 Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal braking0 Rear brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapters 1 and 9).0 Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).

Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that thetrouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, orbinding brakes.

Vehicle pulls to one side0 Defective tyre (“Weekly checks”).0 Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1

and 10).0 Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).0 Accident damage to steering or suspension components

(Chapter 1).

Wheel wobble and vibration0 Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the

steering wheel) (Chapters 1 and 10).0 Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the

vehicle) (Chapters 1 and 10).0 Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapters 1 and 10).0 Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly checks”).0 Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).0 Wheel bolts loose (Chapters 1 and 10).

Fault finding REF.17

8 Suspension and steering (continued)Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,or during braking0 Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).q Broken or weak spring and/or suspension component

(Chapters 1 and 10).0 Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter IO).

Wandering or general instability0 Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).q Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).q Roadwheels out of balance (Chapters 1 and 10).0 Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly checks”).0 Wheel bolts loose (Chapters 1 and 10).0 Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).

Excessively-stiff steeringLack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10).Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint(Chapters 1 and 10).Broken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt - power steering(Chapter 1).Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

Excessive play in steering00

Worn steering column intermediate shaft universal joint (Chapter 10).Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10).

0 Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).0 Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).

9 Electrical system

Lack of power assistance• Broken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).q Incorrect power steering fluid level (“Weekly checks”).q Restriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 1).0 Faulty power steering pump (Chapter 10).0 Faulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

Tyre wear excessive

Tyres worn on inside or outside edges0 Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (“Weekly checks”).0 Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only)

(Chapter 10).q Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).0 Excessively-hard cornering.0 Accident damage.

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edgesq Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of tread0 Tyres over-inflated (“Weekly checks”).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edges0 Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks”).

Tyres worn unevenly0 Tyres/wheels out of balance (Chapter 1).q Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).0 Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).0 Faulty tyre (“Weekly checks”).

Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to thefaults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Battery will not hold a chargefor more than a few days0 Battery defective internally (Chapter 5A).0 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).0 Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).0 Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5A).0 Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5A).0 Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5A and 12).

Ignition/no-charge warning light remainsilluminated with engine running0 Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).0 Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5A).0 Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5A).0 Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5A).0 Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit

(Chapter 5A).

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on0 Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).0 Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit

(Chapter 12).0 Alternator faulty (Chapter 5A).

Lights inoperative0 Bulb blown (Chapter 12).0 Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).0 Blown fuse (Chapter 12).0 Faulty relay (Chapter 12).0 Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).0 Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Instrument readings increase with engine speed0 Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading

0 Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 and 4A or 4B).0 Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).0 Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gaugesgive continuous maximum reading

0 Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 and 4A or 4B).0 Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).0 Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

REF.18 Fault finding

9 Electrical system (continued)Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Horn operates all the time0 Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12).0 Horn cable-to-horn push earthed (Chapter 12).

Horn fails to operate0 Blown fuse (Chapter 12).0 Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 12).Cl Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound0 Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).q Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).0 Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative,or unsatisfactory in operation

Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly0 Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding

(Chapters 1 and 12).0 Blown fuse (Chapter 12).0 Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 12).0 Faulty relay (Chapter 12).0 Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area ofthe glass0 Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).0 Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12).0 Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively0 Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (“Weekly checks”).0 Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized

(Chapter 12).0 Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove

road film (,,Weekly checks”).

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative,or unsatisfactory in operation

One or more washer jets inoperative

q Blocked washer jet (Chapter 1).0 Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).0 Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (“Weekly checks”).

Washer pump fails to operate

0 Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).q Blown fuse (Chapter 12).0 Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).

q Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some timebefore fluid is emitted from jets

0 Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).

EIectric windows inoperative,or unsatisfactory in operation

Window glass will only move in one direction

0 Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Window glass slow to move

q Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication(Chapter 11).

0 Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).

0 Faulty motor (Chapter 11).

Window glass fails to move0 Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

0 Faulty relay (Chapter 12).0 Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

0 Faulty motor (Chapter 11).

Glossary of technical terms REF.9

AABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,usually electronically controlled, that sensesincipient wheel lockup during braking andrelieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that areabout to skid.Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in thesteering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash orglovebox (passenger side). In a head-oncollision, the bags inflate, preventing thedriver and front passenger from being thrownforward into the steering wheel or windscreen.Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,containing a filter element, which removesdust and dirt from the air being drawn into theengine.Air filter element The actual filter in an aircleaner system, usually manufactured frompleated paper and requiring renewal at regularintervals.

Air filter

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits intoa recessed hexagonal hole.Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loadedmetal clip with meshing teeth. Used to maketemporary electrical connections.Alternator A component in the electricalsystem which converts mechanical energyfrom a drivebelt into electrical energy tocharge the battery and to operate the startingsystem, ignition system and electricalaccessories.

Alternator (exploded view)

Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for theflow of electric current. One amp is theamount of current produced by one voltacting through a resistance of one ohm.Anaerobic sealer A substance used toprevent bolts and screws from loosening.Anaerobic means that it does not requireoxygen for activation. The Loctite brand iswidely used.Antifreeze A substance (usually ethyleneglycol) mixed with water, and added to avehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezingof the coolant in winter. Antifreeze alsocontains chemicals to inhibit corrosion andthe formation of rust and other deposits that

would tend to clog the radiator and coolantpassages and reduce cooling efficiency.Anti-seize compound A coating thatreduces the risk of seizing on fasteners thatare subjected to high temperatures, such asexhaust manifold bolts and nuts.

Anti-seize compound

Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with greatheat resistance, commonly used in thecomposition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dustcreated by brake systems should never beinhaled or ingested.Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, orwhich revolves with a wheel. Also, a solidbeam that connects the two wheels at oneend of the vehicle. An axle which alsotransmits power to the wheels is known as alive axle.

Axle assembly

Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on eitherside of the differential, which delivers powerfrom the final drive assembly to the drivewheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

Ball bearing An anti-friction bearingconsisting of a hardened inner and outer racewith hardened steel balls between two races.

Bearing

Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in abore, or the part assembled into either, thatpermits relative motion between them withminimum wear and friction.Big-end bearing The bearing in the end ofthe connecting rod that’s attached to thecrankshaft.Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheelcylinder, caliper or other hydraulic componentthat is opened to purge the hydraulic systemof air. Also called a bleed screw.

Brake bleeding

Brake bleeding Procedure for removing airfrom lines of a hydraulic brake system.Brake disc The component of a disc brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake drum The component of a drum brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake linings The friction material whichcontacts the brake disc or drum to retard thevehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded orriveted to the brake pads or shoes.Brake pads The replaceable friction padsthat pinch the brake disc when the brakes areapplied. Brake pads consist of a frictionmaterial bonded or riveted to a rigid backingplate.Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier towhich the brake linings are mounted andwhich forces the lining against the rotatingdrum during braking.Braking systems For more information onbraking systems, consult the HaynesAutomotive Brake Manual.Breaker bar A long socket wrench handleproviding greater leverage.Bulkhead The insulated partition betweenthe engine and the passenger compartment.

CCaliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brakeassembly that straddles the disc and carriesthe brake pads. The caliper also contains thehydraulic components that cause the pads topinch the disc when the brakes are applied. Acaliper is also a measuring tool that can be setto measure inside or outside dimensions of anobject.

REF.20 Glossary of technical termsCamshaft A rotating shaft on which a seriesof cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.The camshaft may be driven by gears, bysprockets and chain or by sprockets and abelt.Canister A container in an evaporativeemission control system; contains activatedcharcoal granules to trap vapours from thefuel system.

Canister

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel withair in the proper proportions to provide adesired power output from a spark ignitioninternal combustion engine.

Carburettor

Castellated Resembling the parapets alongthe top of a castle wall. For example, acastellated balljoint stud nut.

Castellated nut

Castor In wheel alignment, the backward orforward tilt of the steering axis. Castor ispositive when the steering axis is inclinedrearward at the top.

Catalytic converter A silencer-like device inthe exhaust system which converts certainpollutants in the exhaust gases into lessharmful substances.

Catalytic converter

Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to preventendwise movement of cylindrical parts andshafts. An internal circlip is installed in agroove in a housing; an external circlip fits intoa groove on the outside of a cylindrical piecesuch as a shaft.Clearance The amount of space betweentwo parts. For example, between a piston anda cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,etc.Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found invarious sizes throughout a vehicle, forexample as a springing medium in thesuspension and in the valve train.Compression Reduction in volume, andincrease in pressure and temperature, of agas, caused by squeezing it into a smallerspace.Compression ratio The relationship betweencylinder volume when the piston is at topdead centre and cylinder volume when thepiston is at bottom dead centre.Constant velocity (CV) joint A type ofuniversal joint that cancels out vibrationscaused by driving power being transmittedthrough an angle.Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal deviceinserted in a hole in a casting through whichcore was removed when the casting wasformed. Also known as a freeze plug orexpansion plug.Crankcase The lower part of the engineblock in which the crankshaft rotates.Crankshaft The main rotating member, orshaft, running the length of the crankcase,with offset “throws” to which the connectingrods are attached.

Crankshaft assembly

Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

DDiagnostic code Code numbers obtained byaccessing the diagnostic mode of an enginemanagement computer. This code can beused to determine the area in the systemwhere a malfunction may be located.Disc brake A brake design incorporating arotating disc onto which brake pads aresqueezed. The resulting friction converts theenergy of a moving vehicle into heat.Double-ovehead cam (DOHC) An enginethat uses two overhead camshafts, usuallyone for the intake valves and one for theexhaust valves.D r i v e b e l t The belt(s) used to driveaccessories such as the alternator, waterpump, power steering pump, air conditioningcompressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Accessory drivebelts

Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmitmotion. Commonly used when referring to theaxleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.

Driveshaft

Drum brake A type of brake using a drum-shaped metal cylinder attached to the innersurface of the wheel. When the brake pedal ispressed, curved brake shoes with frictionlinings press against the inside of the drum toslow or stop the vehicle.

Drum brake assembly

Glossary of technical terms REF.21

EEGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaustgases into the intake air stream.

EGR valve

Electronic control unit (ECU) A computerwhich controls (for instance) ignition and fuelinjection systems, or an anti-lock brakingsystem. For more information refer to theHaynes Automotive Electrical and ElectronicSystems Manual.Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computercontrolled fuel system that distributes fuelthrough an injector located in each intake portof the engine.Emergency brake A braking system,independent of the main hydraulic system,that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle ifthe primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehiclestationary even though the brake pedal isn’tdepressed. It usually consists of a hand leverthat actuates either front or rear brakesmechanically through a series of cables andlinkages. Also known as a handbrake orparking brake.Endfloat The amount of lengthwisemovement between two parts. As applied to acrankshaft, the distance that the crankshaftcan move forward and back in the cylinderblock.Engine management system (EMS) Acomputer controlled system which managesthe fuel injection and the ignition systems inan integrated fashion.Exhaust manifold A part with severalpassages through which exhaust gases leavethe engine combustion chambers and enterthe exhaust pipe.

Exhaust manifold

FFan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive couplingdevice which permits variable engine fanspeeds in relation to engine speeds.

Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardenedsteel, ground to an exact thickness, used tocheck or measure clearances between parts.

Feeler blade

Firing order The order in which the enginecylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,beginning with the number one cylinder.Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in whichenergy is absorbed and stored by means ofmomentum. On cars, the flywheel is attachedto the crankshaft to smooth out fir ingimpulses.Free play The amount of travel before anyaction takes place. The “looseness” in alinkage, or an assembly of parts, between theinitial application of force and actualmovement. For example, the distance thebrake pedal moves before the pistons in themaster cylinder are actuated.Fuse An electrical device which protects acircuit against accidental overload. The typicalfuse contains a soft piece of metal which iscalibrated to melt at a predetermined currentflow (expressed as amps) and break thecircuit.Fusible link A circuit protection deviceconsisting of a conductor surrounded byheat-resistant insulation. The conductor issmaller than the wire it protects, so it acts asthe weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blownfuse, a failed fusible link must frequently becut from the wire for replacement.

GGap The distance the spark must travel injumping from the centre electrode to the side

Adjusting spark plug gap

electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to thespacing between the points in a contactbreaker assembly in a conventional points-type ignition, or to the distance between thereluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in anelectronic ignition.Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork,cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installedbetween two metal surfaces to ensure a goodseal. For instance, the cylinder head gasketseals the joint between the block and thecylinder head.

Gauge An instrument panel display used tomonitor engine conditions. A gauge with amovable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is ananalogue gauge. A gauge with a numericalreadout is called a digital gauge.

HHalfshaft A rotating shaft that transmitspower from the final drive unit to a drivewheel, usually when referring to a live rearaxle.Harmonic balancer A device designed toreduce torsion or twisting vibration in thecrankshaft. May be incorporated in thecrankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibrationdamper.Hone An abrasive tool for correcting smallirregularities or differences in diameter in anengine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utiliseshydraulic pressure from the engine’slubrication system to maintain zero clearance(constant contact with both camshaft andvalve stem). Automatically adjusts to variationin valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets alsoreduce valve noise.

IIgnition timing The moment at whichspark plug fires, usually expressed innumber of crankshaft degrees beforepiston reaches the top of its stroke.

thethethe

Inlet manifold A tube or housing withpassages through which flows the air-fuelmixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles withthrottle body injection) or air only (port fuel-injected vehicles) to the port openings in thecylinder head.

REF.22 Glossary of technical terms

JJump start Starting the engine of a vehiclewith a discharged or weak battery byattaching jump leads from the weak battery toa charged or helper battery.

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) Abrake hydraulic system control valve thatworks like a proportioning valve, but alsotakes into consideration the amount of weightcarried by the rear axle.Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustmentnut, or other threaded component, in place.For example, a locknut is employed to keepthe adjusting nut on the rocker arm inposition.Lockwasher A form of washer designed toprevent an attaching nut from working loose.

MMacPherson strut A type of frontsuspension system devised by Ear leMacPherson at Ford of England. In its originalform, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll barcreates the lower control arm. A long strut - anintegral coil spring and shock absorber - ismounted between the body and the steeringknuckle. Many modern so-called MacPhersonstrut systems use a conventional lower A-armand don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.Multimeter An electrical test instrument withthe capability to measure voltage, current andresistance.

NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxicpollutant emitted by petrol and diesel enginesat higher temperatures.

OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. Onevolt applied to a resistance of one ohm willproduce a current of one amp.Ohmmeter An instrument for measuringelectrical resistance.O-ring A type of sealing ring made of aspecial rubber-like material; in use, the O-ringis compressed into a groove to provide thesealing action.

O-ring

Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with - the ozone in the upper atmosphere.the camshaft(s) located on top of thecylinderhead(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine withthe valves located in the cylinder head, butwith the camshaft located in the engine block.Oxygen sensor A device installed in theengine exhaust manifold, which senses theoxygen content in the exhaust and convertsthis information into an electric current. Alsocalled a Lambda sensor.

Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaftor pivots on a stud. In an overhead valveengine, the rocker arm converts the upwardmovement of the pushrod into a downwardmovement to open a valve.Rotor In a distributor, the rotating deviceinside the cap that connects the centreelectrode and the outer terminals as it turns,distributing the high voltage from the coilsecondary winding to the proper spark plug.Also, that part of an alternator which rotatesinside the stator. Also, the rotating assemblyof a turbocharger, including the compressorwheel, shaft and turbine wheel.Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-outmovement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” Theout-of-round condition of a rotating part.

PPhillips screw A type of screw head having across instead of a slot for a correspondingtype of screwdriver.Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,available in different sizes, used for measuringclearances. For example, a strip of Plastigageis laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of thecrushed strip indicates the clearance betweenjournal and bearing.

Plastigage

Propeller shaft The long hollow tube withuniversal joints at both ends that carriespower from the transmission to the differentialon front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.Proportioning valve A hydraulic controlvalve which limits the amount of pressure tothe rear brakes during panic stops to preventwheel lock-up.

RRack-and-pinion steering A steering systemwith a pinion gear on the end of the steeringshaft that mates with a rack (think of a gearedwheel opened up and laid flat). When thesteering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,moving the rack to the left or right. Thismovement is transmitted through the trackrods to the steering arms at the wheels.Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer devicedesigned to reduce the temperature of thecoolant in an internal combustion enginecooling system.Refrigerant Any substance used as a heattransfer agent in an air-conditioning system.R-12 has been the principle refrigerant formany years; recently, however, manufacturershave begun using R-134a, a non-CFCsubstance that is considered less harmful to

SSealant A liquid or paste used to preventleakage at a joint. Sometimes used inconjunction with a gasket.Sealed beam lamp An older headlight designwhich integrates the reflector, lens andfilaments into a hermetically-sealed one-pieceunit. When a filament burns out or the lenscracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wideaccessory drivebelt that’s used on somenewer vehicles to drive all the accessories,instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned byan automatic tensioner.

Serpentine drivebelt

Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjustthe clearance or relative positions betweentwo parts. For example, shims inserted into orunde r bucke t t appe ts con t ro l va l veclearances. Clearance is adjusted bychanging the thickness of the shim.Slide hammer A special puller that screwsinto or hooks onto a component such as ashaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on theshaft bottoms against the end of the shaft toknock the component free.Sprocket A tooth or projection on theperiphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with achain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer tothe sprocket wheel itself.Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an

Glossary of technical terms REF.23automatic transmission, a swi tch thatprevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutralor Park.Strut See MacPherson strut.

Tappet A cylindrical component whichtransmits motion from the cam to the valvestem, either directly or via a pushrod androcker arm. Also called a cam follower.Thermostat A heat-controlled valve thatregulates the flow of coolant between thecylinder block and the radiator, so maintainingoptimum engine operating temperature. Athermostat is also used in some air cleaners inwhich the temperature is regulated.Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutchassembly that is moved in to the release leversby clutch pedal action to disengage theclutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.Timing belt A toothed belt which drives thecamshaft. Serious engine damage may resultif it breaks in service.Timing chain A chain which drives thecamshaft.Toe-in The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the front than at the rear. Onrear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-in is usually specified to keep the frontwheels running parallel on the road byoffsetting other forces that tend to spread thewheels apart.Toe-out The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the rear than at the front. On

front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-out is usually specified.Tools For full information on choosing andusing tools, refer to the Haynes AutomotiveTools Manual.Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied toa wire insulator to distinguish that wire fromanother one with the same colour insulator.Tune-up A process of accurate and carefuladjustments and parts replacement to obtainthe best possible engine performance.Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven byexhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.Normally used to increase the power outputfrom a given engine displacement, but canalso be used primarily to reduce exhaustemissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Dieselengine).

UUniversal joint or U-joint A double-pivotedconnection for transmitting power from adriving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and across-shaped member called the spider.

vValve A device through which the flow ofliquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulkmay be started, stopped, or regulated by amovable part that opens, shuts, or partially

obstructs one or more ports or passageways.A valve is also the movable part of such adevice.Valve clearance The clearance between thevalve tip (the end of the valve stem) and therocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance ismeasured when the valve is closed.Vernier caliper A precision measuringinstrument that measures inside and outsidedimensions. Not quite as accurate as amicrometer, but more convenient.Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or itsresistance to flow.Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure”in a circuit. One volt that will produce a currentof one ampere through a resistance of oneohm.

WWelding Various processes used to join metalitems by heating the areas to be joined to amolten state and fusing them together. Formore information refer to the H a y n e sAutomotive Welding Manual.Wiring diagram A drawing portraying thecomponents and wires in a vehicle’s electricalsystem, using standardised symbols. Formore information refer to the H a y n e sAutomotive Electrical and Electronic SystemsManual.