REGIS ST LOUIS, KEVIN RAUB

LISBON

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Contents

Elevador de Santa Justa (p64) MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

Plan Your TripWelcome to Lisbon .............4

Top Sights ............................6

Eating .................................10

Bars & Nightlife .................12

Shopping ............................14

Museums & Galleries .......16

Azulejos ............................. 17

Viewpoints .........................18

Outdoors ............................19

Pastelarias & Cafes ......... 20

For Kids ..............................21

Tours .................................. 22

LGBT .................................. 23

Four Perfect Days ............ 24

Need to Know ................... 26

Lisbon Neighbourhoods .............. 28

Explore Lisbon 31Bairro Alto & Chiado............................ 33

Baixa & Rossio.................. 55

Alfama, Castelo & Graça ..............................75

Belém ................................ 95

Parque das Nações..........111

Marquês de Pombal, Rato & Saldanha ............. 119

Estrela, Lapa & Alcântara ...................... 131

Worth a TripTram 28E ............................72

Museu Nacional do Azulejo ......................... 92

Palácio Nacional de Sintra ......................... 142

Survival Guide 145Before You Go ................ 146

Arriving in Lisbon ............147

Getting Around .............. 148

Essential Information .... 149

Language .........................152

Special FeaturesConvento do Carmo ................................ 34

Praça do Comércio .......... 56

Castelo de São Jorge ...........................76

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos ......................... 96

Museu Coleção Berardo ............................. 98

Oceanário ........................ 112

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian ..................... 120

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga .................132

A roller-coaster city of seven hills, crowned by a Moorish castle and washed in an artist’s pure light, Lisbon is cinematically beautiful and historically compelling. This is a capital city of big skies and bigger vistas; of clattering trams and Willy Wonka–like elevators; of melancholic fado song and live-to-party nightlife. Edge, charisma and postcard good looks – Lisbon has the lot.

Welcome to Lisbon©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Mosteiro dos JerónimosPortugal’s Unesco-listed Manueline masterpiece. p96

Top SightsS

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Tram 28ELisbon’s most cinematic tram ride. p72

Castelo de São JorgeLisbon’s menacing medieval hilltop fortress. p76

Museu Nacional de Arte AntigaA 17th-century palace of star-studded art. p133

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Museu Calouste GulbenkianLisbon’s most epic art collection. p120

Praça do ComércioLisbon’s grand riverfront main square. p56

Convento do CarmoLisbon’s stunning pre-earth-quake, open-sky convent. p34

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OceanárioEurope’s second-largest aquarium. p112

Museu Nacional do AzulejoFantasy-land of azulejos (hand-painted tiles). p92

Museu Coleção BerardoA contemporary-art bonanza in Belém. p98

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Eating

While classics like bacalhau (dried salt-cod) and pastéis de nata (custard tarts) never go out of fashion, the Portuguese capital has raised the culi-nary bar, with creative, open-minded chefs looking abroad for inspiration. Individualism trumps conformity and restaurants are popping up in the most unlikely places, from convents to pharmaceutical museums and former fish-tackle stores.

Tasca CharmCrowded tables, an inviting buzz and menus with robust dishes like açorda (bread and shellfish stew) define tascas, Lisbon’s family- run, cheap-as-chips eater-ies. Some of the best are tucked away in the backstreets of Baixa, Alfama and Bairro Alto. Find an equally local scene and great value specials at churrasqueiras (grill houses).

Fine DiningSimplicity, pristine ingredients and crea-tivity mark Lisbon’s

gourmet scene. Chefs such as José Avillez, João Rodrigues and Henrique Sá Pessoa have put the city on the gastro map with ingredient-focused tasting menus, often putting a spin on comfort foods like slow-cooked suckling pig and bacalhau.

Cooking ClassesIf you’re into Portu-guese food in a big way and fancy picking up a few tips and tricks from the experts, you can take a class at Kiss the Cook (%968 119 652; www.kissthecook.pt; Rua Rodri-gues de Faria 103; classes

€65). Here you can prepare (and devour) traditional dishes. The classes are totally hands-on and include lunch and wine.

Best GourmetAlma Michelin-starred Hen-rique Sá Pessoa’s flagship Portuguese kitchen. (p45)Loco Chef Alexandre Silva’s ‘moments’ provide a tantalising and unexpected Michelin-starred taste-bud trip through Portugal and beyond. (p139)Bairro de Avillez Cele-brated chef José Avillez’ culinary ‘neighbourhood’ is one-stop satisfaction for foodies. (p43)Feitoria João Rodrigues elevates seasonal ingredi-ents to a whole new level

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