Peter reinhart’s

artisan breads every day

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Peter reinhart’s

artisan breadsevery day

Fast and Easy Recipes for World-Class Breads

PEtER REinhaRt

photography by Leo Gong

tEn SPEED PRESS

Berkeley

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Copyright © 2009 by Peter Reinhart

Photographs copyright © 2009 by Leo Gong

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press,

an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division

of Random House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon

are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Reinhart, Peter.

Peter Reinhart’s artisan breads every day / Peter Reinhart ; photogra-

phy by Leo Gong.

p. cm.

Includes index.

Summary: “Master baker and innovator Peter Reinhart’s answer to

the artisan-bread-in-no-time revolution, with time-saving techniques

for making extraordinary loaves with speed and ease”—Provided by

publisher.

1. Bread. 2. Quick and easy cookery. I. Title. II. Title: Artisan breads

every day.

TX769.R4175 2009

641.8’15—dc22

2009021119

ISBN 978-1-58008-998-2

Printed in China

Design by Nancy Austin

Food styling by Karen Shinto

Prop styling by Harumi Shimizu

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

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ContEntS

introduction: Where We are and how We Got here 1

1. Baking Basics 5

2. Sourdough and Wild Yeast Fundamentals 35

3. French Breads and Sourdough hearth Breads 45

4. Enriched Breads 81

5. Rich Breads 139

Epilogue: What’s next for the artisan Movement? 199

Resources 204

Baker’s Percentage Formulas 206

index 210

acknowledgments 214

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52 peterreinhart’sartisanbreadseveryday FrenchbreadsandsourdoughHearthbreads 53

from the back end and then from each side, then flip the dough over and tuck it into a ball.

The dough should be significantly firmer, though still very soft and fragile. Place the dough

back in the bowl, cover, and let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes. Repeat this process

three more times, completing all repetitions within 40 minutes. (You can also perform the

stretch and folds in the bowl, as shown on page 17.)

After the final stretch and fold, immediately cover the bowl tightly and refrigerate over-

night or for up to 4 days. The dough will rise, possibly to double its original size, in the

refrigerator. (If you plan to bake the dough in batches over different days, you can portion the

dough and place it into two or more oiled bowls at this stage.)

on Baking daY

Remove the dough from the refrigerator about 1 hour before baking for mini baguettes,

and 3 hours in advance for ciabatta (or an hour earlier if the dough hasn’t increased to

11/2 times its original size in the refrigerator overnight).

painàl’anciennerusticBread

MakeS 2 large CiaBatta loaveS, 3 SMall CiaBatta loaveS, or 6 to 8 Mini BaguetteS

i first introduced the concept of cold-fermented wet dough in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice.

While the idea isn’t new or original, it has blossomed during the past few years into vari-

ous no-knead, overnight-rise permutations. i now prefer the version in this recipe because

it gives the best flavor and also provides the most flexibility for scheduling. the refrigera-

tor provides a 4-day window of baking opportunity, and that’s hard to beat. the beauty of

this dough, as others have discovered, is that it can be used in so many ways: for focaccia,

ciabatta, mini baguettes, and more. (Because the method for shaping this dough into focaccia

is substantially different, it appears as a separate recipe on page 57.) and even though it’s the

most hydrated dough in this book, it requires only minimal mixing to achieve the same gluten

strength as bakeries obtain by mixing continuously for 20 minutes, due to the stretch and

fold technique.

41/2 cups (20 oz / 567 g) unbleached bread flour

13/4 teaspoons (0.4 oz / 11 g) salt, or 21/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

11/4 teaspoons (0.14 oz / 4 g) instant yeast

2 cups (16 oz / 454 g) chilled water (about 55°F or 13°C)

1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) olive oil (for ciabatta only)

do ahead

Combine the flour, salt, yeast, and water in a mixing bowl. If using a mixer, use the paddle

attachment and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon

and stir for about 1 minute, until well blended. The dough should be coarse and sticky. Let

the dough rest for 5 minutes to fully hydrate the flour.

If making ciabatta, drizzle the olive oil over the dough; if making mini baguettes, omit the

oil. Then mix on medium-low speed using the paddle attachment, or by hand using a large,

wet spoon or wet hands, for 1 minute. The dough should become smoother but will still be

very soft, sticky, and wet. Use a wet bowl scraper or spatula to transfer the dough to a clean,

lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rest at room tempera-

ture for 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface. With wet or oiled hands, reach under

the front end of the dough, stretch it out, then fold it back onto the top of the dough. Do this

To stretch and fold the dough on the work surface, lightly oil the surface and your hands, then transfer the dough to the surface. Stretch one end of the dough out then fold it back over the top of the dough. Do this from all four sides then place the dough back in the bowl and let sit for 10 minutes. Repeat this process three more times. You will feel the dough become significantly firmer.

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54 peterreinhart’sartisanbreadseveryday

to make ciabatta, about 1 hour after taking the dough out of the refrigerator, line the

back of a sheet pan with parchment paper and generously dust the entire surface with flour.

Use a wet or oiled bowl scraper to transfer the dough to the work surface, taking care to

handle the dough as little as possible to avoid degassing it.

Dust the top surface of the dough with flour and also flour your hands. Using your hands

or a metal pastry scraper, gently coax and pat the dough into a rough square measuring about

9 inches on each side, still taking care to degas it as little as possible.

For small ciabatta, cut the dough into 3 even strips about 3 inches wide and 9 inches

long (the pieces will each weigh about 12 ounces or 340 grams). For larger ciabatta, cut the

dough in half. With floured hands, gently fold the dough in thirds, like folding a letter but

without applying any pressure. Gently roll the folded dough in the dusting flour to coat it,

then lift the dough and place it on the parchment paper, again rolling it in the dusting flour

on the parchment. Rest the dough seam side down on the

parchment and repeat with the other pieces of dough.

Mist the tops of the dough pieces with spray oil and

loosely cover the pan with plastic wrap or a clean, lint-free

towel. After 1 hour, gently roll the pieces over so the seam

side is up, lift and cradle each piece with floured hands,

and, working from the underside, gently coax it to a length

of 5 inches (for small ciabatta) to 7 inches (for large ciab-

atta). Lay the pieces back on the parchment seam side up.

Straighten the sides of each piece with your hands or a pas-

try scraper so that they are more rectangular than oblong,

mist with spray oil again, then cover loosely and proof for

1 hour more.

About 45 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to

550°F (288°C) or as high as it will go, and prepare the oven

for hearth baking (see page 30).

Slide the dough, parchment and all, onto the stone; if you

aren’t using a baking stone, simply put the whole pan into

the oven. Pour 1 cup of hot water into the steam pan, then

lower the oven temperature to 450°F (232°C).

Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for

15 to 20 minutes more, until the crust is a rich brown

(streaked with the dusting flour). The bread should puff a lit-

tle, and the crust should be hard when tapped (it’ll soften as

it cools). Cool on a wire rack for 45 minutes before slicing.

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56 peterreinhart’sartisanbreadseveryday FrenchbreadsandsourdoughHearthbreads 57

painàl’ancienneFocaccia

MakeS 1 large FoCaCCia or up to 4 roundS

although this formula is exactly the same as the preceeding pain à l’ancienne rustic bread

recipe (page 52), the method is quite different. this focaccia dough is also quite similar to

the pizza doughs in this book, the main difference being the amount of hydration. Focaccia is

wetter, at 80 percent hydration, because it has the benefit of rising and baking in a pan to pro-

vide structural support, whereas pizza dough is closer to 70 percent hydration so that it can

be handled and stretched. in both cases, the dough should be slightly sticky, not just tacky.

Focaccia dough is so wet that it’s best to use olive oil to handle it, whereas flour works just fine

with pizza dough. You can also bake a smaller, round focaccia (pictured on page 198).

41/2 cups (20 oz / 567 g) unbleached bread flour

13/4 teaspoons (0.4 oz / 11 g) salt, or 21/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

11/4 teaspoons (0.14 oz / 4 g) instant yeast

2 cups (16 oz / 454 g) chilled water (about 55°F or 13°C)

1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) olive oil, plus more for the pan

do ahead

Combine the flour, salt, yeast, and water in a mixing bowl. If using a mixer, use the paddle

attachment and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon

and stir for about 1 minute, until well blended. The dough should be coarse and wet. Let the

dough rest for 5 minutes to fully hydrate the flour.

Drizzle the olive oil over the dough, then resume mixing on medium-low speed using the

paddle attachment, or by hand using a large wet spoon or wet hands, for 1 minute. The dough

should become smoother but will still be very soft, sticky, and wet. Use a wet bowl scraper or

spatula to transfer the dough to a clean, lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap

and let the dough rest at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface. With wet or oiled hands, reach under

the front end of the dough, stretch it out, then fold it back onto the top of the dough. Do this

from the back end and then from each side, then flip the dough over and tuck it into a ball.

The dough should be significantly firmer, though still very soft and fragile. Place the dough

back in the bowl, cover, and let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes. Repeat this entire

process three more times, completing all repetitions within 30 to 40 minutes. (You can also

do the stretch and folds in the bowl, as shown on page 17.)

to make mini baguettes, about 45 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 550°F

(288°C), or as high as it will go, and prepare the oven for hearth baking (see page 30). After

the dough has been out for 1 hour, generously dust the entire surface of a wooden peel with

flour or line the back of a sheet pan with parchment paper (you can either dust the parchment

with flour or mist it with spray oil so that you can slide and move the dough if need be). Use

a wet or oiled bowl scraper to transfer the dough from the bowl to the work surface, taking

care to handle the dough as little as possible to avoid degassing it.

Dust the top surface of the dough with flour and also flour your hands. Using your hands

or a metal pastry scraper, gently coax and pat the dough into a rough square about 8 inches

on each side, still taking care to degas it as little as possible.

Cut off a slice of dough about 11/2 inches wide and roll it into the dusting flour to lightly

coat it and keep it from sticking to the remainder of the dough. Working with floured hands

and tools, carefully transfer the slice to the prepared peel

or parchment paper, cradling it with both hands to keep it

from stretching too much. You can straighten it by spread-

ing your hands underneath the dough as you lay it down; it

should elongate slightly, to 9 to 10 inches.

Repeat with the rest of the dough, placing the pieces

1 inch apart, until the peel or parchment is full. If you can’t

fit all of the pieces on the peel or parchment, bake those that

are ready before cutting the remainder. It’s better to work in

manageable batches than to try to cram all of them in the

oven, especially if your stone or oven won’t easily hold all of

them. Scoring the dough is an option, but because it risks

degassing the dough, I advise against it until you have made

these a few times.

Slide the mini baguettes onto the baking stone using short, quick back-and-forth motions

with the peel, or by sliding the parchment paper onto the stone. Pour 1/2 cup of hot water into

the steam pan, then lower the oven temperature to 475°F (246°C).

Bake for 12 to 18 minutes total, rotating the pan as needed for even browning. The crust

should be a rich brown, the loaves should puff a little, and the crust should be hard when

tapped (the crust will soften slightly as the bread cools).

Cool on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes.

variation

For an interesting ciabatta texture and a nice design on the surface of the bread, mix a

small amount of coarse rye flour or whole wheat flour in with the dusting flour.

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To purchase a copy of 

Peter Reinhart’s Artisan Breads Every Day 

 

visit one of these online retailers: 

 

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