paul poiret

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He called himself the "King of Fashion,“: freeing women from corsets and further liberating them through pantaloons. •Innovative cut and construction of clothing secured his legacy •Could not sew. •Radical approach to dressmaking relying more on the skills of draping directly onto the body, less than on tailoring. Focus is on his technical ingenuity and originality, Poiret’s modernity in relation to and as an expression of the dominant influencesof the early 20th century, including Cubism, Classicism, Orientalism, Symbolism, and Primitivism. The exhibition made possible by Balenciaga. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Paul Poiret (1879–1944)

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A historical overview of the designer, Paul Poiret's fashion and perspective. Fashion history teaching tool. Artistic inspiration and view. He called himself the "King of Fashion". The hobble skirt was his trademark during the turn of the 20th century.

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Page 1: Paul Poiret

He called himself the "King of Fashion,“: freeing women from corsets and further liberating them through pantaloons.

•Innovative cut and construction of clothing secured his legacy

•Could not sew.

•Radical approach to dressmaking relying more on the skills of draping directly onto the body, less than on tailoring.

Focus is on his technical ingenuity and originality, Poiret’s modernity in relation to and as an expression of the dominant influencesof the early 20th century, including Cubism, Classicism, Orientalism, Symbolism, and Primitivism. The exhibition made possible by Balenciaga. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Paul Poiret (1879–1944)

Page 2: Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)Hand-Colored Pochoir from Les choses de Paul Poiret, 1911The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections

Paul Poiret

Page 3: Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)Hand-Colored Pochoir from Les choses de Paul Poiret, 1911The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections

Paul Poiret

Page 4: Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)"Serais-je en avance?" from Gazette du bon ton, 1912Gouache on paper

Collection of Karl Lagerfeld

Paul Poiret

Page 5: Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)"Laquelle?" from Gazette du bon ton, September 1913Hand-colored pochoirThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections

Paul Poiret

Page 6: Paul Poiret

Geisler & Baumann (American, active 1913–14)Denise Poiret at the Plaza Hotel, New York, 1913

Photograph courtesy of Les Arts Décoratifs, Fonds photographique patrimonial UFAC conservé au Musée de la Mode et du Textile, Paris.

All rights reserved © 2007 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris

Paul Poiret

Page 7: Paul Poiret

Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1879–1953)

La Perse" Coat Worn by Denise Poiret, 1911Ivory and blue-black block-printed cotton velvet with brown rabbit trimThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.199)

Paul Poiret

Page 8: Paul Poiret

Fancy Dress Costume Probably Worn to "The Thousand and Second Night" Party, June 24, 1911Green silk gauze and gold lamé with blue foil appliqué and gold, blue, pink, coral, and turquoise celluloid-bead embroideryThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1983 (1983.8a, b)

Paul Poiret

Page 9: Paul Poiret

Opera Coat, 1912Yellow satin, pale blue silk overlaid with gold filé embroidery, and black silk velvetThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust Gift, 1982 (1982.350.2)

Paul Poiret

Page 10: Paul Poiret

"Théâtre des Champs-Élysées" Evening Gown Worn by Denise Poiret, 1913Gown of ivory silk damask and ivory silk tulle overskirt with rhinestone embroidery; headdress of green and black silk gauze with rhinestone embroideryThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Paul D. Schurgot Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.193a–e)

Paul Poiret

Page 11: Paul Poiret

"Pré Catelan" Evening Coat Worn by Denise Poiret, 1918Black silk and gold striped laméThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher Fund, 2005 (2005.205)

Paul Poiret

Page 12: Paul Poiret

Coat, 1919Black wool faille with white kid cutwork appliqué and white shearling trimThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Gift of Mrs. David J. Colton, 1961 (C.I.61.40.4)

Paul Poiret

Page 13: Paul Poiret

"Paris" Evening Coat Worn by Denise Poiret, 1919Brown silk velvet with placket of red and blue wool and couched gilt-silver cordingThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.207)

Paul Poiret

Page 14: Paul Poiret

"Bois de Boulogne" Dinner Dress Worn by Denise Poiret, 1919Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953) Textile manufacture by Bianchini-Férier (French, founded 1880) Printed polychrome silk, black silk tulle, and black silk broadclothThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher Fund, 2005 (2005.197a–c)

Paul Poiret

Page 15: Paul Poiret

Nightdress Worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1920Pink cottonThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Gift of the Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.195)

Paul Poiret

Page 16: Paul Poiret

"Irudrée" Evening Gown, ca. 1922Gold laméThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2007 (2007.146)

Paul Poiret

Page 17: Paul Poiret

Dress, ca. 1922–23Navy and red block-printed silk failleThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Gift of Mrs. Muriel Draper, 1943 (C.I.43.85.2a, b)

Paul Poiret

Page 18: Paul Poiret

"Le Bal" Shoes Worn by Denise Poiret, 1924Leather with polychrome seed-bead embroideryThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.192a, b)

Paul Poiret

Page 19: Paul Poiret

"Bouclier" Day Dress, 1925Navy wool, red wool, and ivory cotton with applied red ribbon and printed trompe l'oeil placket with button motifThe Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Gift of Mrs. Alfred Rheinstein, 1950 (C.I.50.117)

Paul Poiret