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Page 1: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature
Page 2: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature
Page 3: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Paul Flato ( from top )

pair of enamel, silver and gold ‘envelope’ vanity cases,

circa 1939

pair of ruby and gold ‘feet’ brooch clips, circa 1940

Page 4: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Illias Lalounisgold necklace

Cartiermulti-gem and gold ‘cowboy’

brooch, circa 1965

Tiffany & Co.gold and diamond

‘cactus’ brooch

Paul Flatopair of ruby and diamond ‘boot’

brooches, circa 1945

Cartiermulti-gem and enamel

‘sioux’ clip brooch, circa 1938

Page 5: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

1960s Van Cleef & Arpels ( from top )

diamond and gold bracelet

emerald, sapphire and diamond bracelet

sapphire and diamond bracelet

diamond and gold bracelet

Page 6: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

David Webb

David Webb created, and was noted for, his unusual menagerie of gold and enamelled frogs, monkeys,

elephants and jewels inspired by American themes and motifs. –

( from left )

pair of multi-gem and diamond ear pendants

enamel and gold bracelet

ruby, enamel and gold monkey ring

Page 7: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

David Webb18k gold, emerald and diamond frog box, circa 1966

Diamonds weighing approximately 29.30 carats Emeralds weighing approximately 39.24 carats.Gross weight approximately 72.40 troy ounces.

9 x 8 x 4 1/2 inches. Signed David Webb.

Page 8: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Evocative of Giuliano and his jewels, which were produced in the neo-Renaissance style, pierced,

delicately enameled and set discreetly with small faceted precious stones

–antique multi-gem and enamel bracelet,

circa 1860

Page 9: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

antique ivory, multi-gem and gold elephant object,

circa 1900

Cartierart deco enamel, coral

and carved emerald vanity case, circa 1930

Buccellati

pair of ruby, ivory and gold ear clips

pair of ivory and gold bangles

Page 10: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Cartier

Cartier has long had an association with felines, with a panther motif appearing on a wristwatch as early as 1914. When Jeanne Toussaint

became the ‘Directrice a la Haute Joaillerie’ in 1933, Louis Cartier referred to her as ‘The Panther’ both for her indomitable personality and tastes for

exotic motifs. Toussaint was to have a profound influence on Cartier jewels, adopting the panther and numerous other animals, and for over

thirty years oversaw the creation of the most sophisticated pieces.

–onyx and diamond ‘panther’ ring

onyx colored diamond and emerald ‘tiger’ bracelet

Page 11: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Verduraemerald and sapphire ’y’ necklace

Eleven emeralds weighing approximately 426.45 carats and one sapphire weighing approximately 29.28 carats

emerald, coral and diamond lion brooch

Emerald bead weighing approximately 162.50 carats

Page 12: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

emerald and diamond ring of 5.21 carats

Colombian Origin, No Oil Enhancement

Cartiersapphire and diamond ring of 12.64 carats

Ceylon Origin, No Heat Enhancement

Oscar Heyman & Brothersruby and diamond ring of 17.92 carats,

circa 1965

Burmese Origin, No Heat Enhancement

Page 13: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

pair of art deco diamond ear pendants weighing 16.75 carats

Harry Winston ( right )

pair of sapphire and diamond ear clips

Paul Flato( left )

diamond and platinum starfish brooch,

circa 1939

The 1960s is considered to be the zenith in the career of the remarkable jeweler Harry Winston, of which the present sapphire ear clips are an

outstanding example. Known for his instinctive love and knowledge of precious gemstones, Winston combined classic design with sparing

use of color, which allowed the stones to do the talking.

Page 14: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Viren Bhagat

Inspiration for Viren Bhagat comes from the celebrated period of India’s past, taking the best of older jewelry forms prevalent

in the the Mughal decorative arts of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and making them feel new and contemporary.

–pair of natural pearl and diamond ear pendants

natural pearl and diamond ring

Page 15: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Viren Bhagat ( from left )

pair of natural pearl and diamond ear clips

pair of diamond bangle bracelets of approximately 86.59 carats

Page 16: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

diamond ring of 5.17 carats, d color, internally flawless clarity

Hemmerlepair of diamond and sand-blasted

platinum cuff bracelets

Weighing 8.69 carats total

Taffinpair of multi-colored sapphire

and platinum earclips

Weighing 43.10 carats total

Page 17: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Natural Pearls

Magnificent in their luminosity and iridescence, natural pearls are the only gems perfect in themselves; their natural beauty unaided by cutting, faceting or polishing.

In many cultures, natural pearls represent purity, and have been the preferred symbol of wealth, rank and authority of kings and emperors throughout the world.

The simple and elegant nature of the pearl makes it one of the most enduring of jewels, and the near exhaustion of resources has led to a finite supply of these gems

and explains their ever increasing value. Though currently all but exhausted, the most consistent producer of high quality pearls historically was the Persian Gulf,

where one can presume the present strands originated.

– ( from left )

multi-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace sautoir

pair of art deco natural pearl and diamond ear pendants, circa 1928

Page 18: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Cartier: The Mystery Clock

Mysterious because the platinum and diamond-set hands simply float in the midst of the transparent rock crystal. The secret is that the mechanism is hidden in the side columns and base, and the dial

consists of two crystal plates that have a hand fixed to each side. The cog mechanism, also hidden within the borders, moves the two

parallel disks so the the hands appear to mysteriously rotate.

–rock crystal, diamond and multi-gem ‘mystery’ clock,

circa 1980

Page 19: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Cartier: Tutti Frutti

Few jewels have captured the imagination and enthusiasm of collec-tors as the ‘Tutti Frutti’ creations by Cartier. The style was originally called simply ‘pierres de couleur’ (colored stones). Only in the 1940s

was it named ‘Tutti Frutti’, probably inspired by the fruit jewelry which was famously worn by Carmen Miranda in her number ‘The

Lady in the Tutti Frutti Hat’ in the 1943 film The Gang’s All Here. Emblazoned with strikingly engraved gemstones of varied hues, the style is a direct translation of the colorful enamel seen on the reverse

of India’s traditional jewels, which inspired something of a craze in Europe between the wars. The emphasis on the carved texture con-trasts with the white geometrical design more commonly found in Art Deco jewels and introduces nature in the design with the inclu-

sion of gems carved in leaf, berry and blossom shapes.

–art deco sapphire and diamond ‘tutti frutti’ necklace,

circa 1930

Page 20: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Cartier: Egyptian Revival

The arts of ancient Egypt held a fascination for designers in the first two decades of the twentieth century; this craze intensifying after

each new discovery. In 1908, a royal tomb at Thebes was discovered and six years later the Pyramid of Sesostris II was excavated. But it

was Howard Carter’s opening of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922 that precipitated a veritable rage. Soon, pharaonic motifs appeared

in all aspects of the decorative arts, particularly in jewelry design. –

art deco egyptian revival multi-gem and enamel ring, circa 1925

Carved Burmese Ruby weighing 11.80 carats

Page 21: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Verdura Meets Chanel

In the 1930s, Coco Chanel approached her friend Fulco di Verdura about designing a pair of cuff bracelets. Fulco’s brilliantly colored byzantine

inspired aesthetic complemented the new direction espoused by Chanel, who at the time had been strongly influenced by her affair with Grand Duke Dimitri of Russia. Fulco’s design, two unique yet complimentary

cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature of Chanel’s, who wore them constantly, and to this day the

Maltese cross remains an important design element in both Verdura and Chanel’s collections. To mark the 70th anniversary of its founding,

Verdura created a limited edition of 70 cuffs that replicate the Chanel originals, these set in enamel over gold.

Chanelamethyst and emerald ring, circa 1930 ( left )

Verdurapair of multi-gem, enamel

and gold limited edition cuff bracelets ( right )

Page 22: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Suzanne Belperron

Characterized by bold and pure lines, Suzanne Belperron’s style was her signature. It was her ability to fuse the simple with the artful that made her an artist in her day, and a cult figure now.

– ( from left )

sapphire, diamond and gold cuff bracelet, circa 1940

amethyst and gold grapes brooch, circa 1936

cabochon emerald and platinum ring of approximately 6.00 carats, circa 1945

diamond and platinum ring of approximately 5.00 carats, circa 1945

Page 23: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Hemmerle

Modernist, purist, Hemmerle is known for working with materials such as copper, brass, silver, wood and pairing them

with exceptional gems and diamonds. –

( below )

satinwood and colored diamond cuff bracelet

olivewood and demantoid garnet cuff bracelet

cushion-cut diamond and copper ring of 7.84 carats

pair of wood and diamond ear clips of approximately 12.00 carats

Page 24: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Bulgari

The 1980s were the decade of the triumphal success of Bulgari design, characterized by important gemstones juxtaposed in

unusual color combinations and smooth, rounded shapes, as well as for the large use of yellow gold.

– ( left to right )

multi-gem, gold and diamond sautoir, circa 1975

carved amethyst, emerald and yellow diamond ring

pair of diamond and gold ‘alveare’ bracelets

diamond and gold ‘xo’ ring

Page 25: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Rolex ( from left )

gold wristwatch with blue dial

reference 1806

oyster perpetual gold gmt-master with ‘rootbeer’ dial

tri-colored gold president with green vinette diamond dial

reference 18039b

Page 26: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Van Cleef & Arpels onyx and diamond sautoir necklace,

circa 1970

Verdura pair of multi-gem and

gold maltese cross cuff bracelets

Page 27: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Bulgari

Bulgari’s most recognizable timepiece, the sinuous and flexible snake watch, dates back to the 1940s. Bold, with serpent-like coils

and bright enamel plaques, each terminates with a jeweled head concealing the dial. The snake watch has grown to become an

unmistakable icon of both jeweled bracelet watches and of the House of Bulgari.

–enamel, ruby and gold ‘snake’ wristwatch, circa 1960

Page 28: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

a single-strand of jade and diamond beads

Cartiera multi-gem and

diamond ‘bird’ brooch, circa 1960

Page 29: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Van Cleef & Arpels ( from left )

retro multi-gem and gold ‘passe partout’ necklace, circa 1939

pair of retro gold and diamond ‘snowflake’ ear clips, circa 1938

multi-gem and diamond ‘bird of paradise’ brooch

Page 30: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Boivin

From 1917 to 1959,the House of Boivin was run by Jeanne Boivin, widow of its founder, in close cooperation with her daughter Germaine and designer Juliette Moutard, all of whom had a

predilection for pieces inspired by the animal kingdom. Elephants naturally played a premiere role; bejeweled with vibrant colored

gems and accented by dangling baguette-cut diamonds. It sits among Boivin’s more elegant jewels, and provides a lovely example of the

vivid imaginations of the female trio. –

a multi-gem and gold elephant pendant necklace, circa 1940

Page 31: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

( from left )

a small carnelian and gold pendant, circa 1970

a large carnelian and gold pendant, circa 1970

a large rose gold and diamond pendant, circa 1970

Aldo Cipullo

Cartier designer Aldo Cipullo created the iconic ‘Love Bracelet’ for the house in 1969 – a solid gold symbol of enduring

commitment – which was followed by other icons, including his nail motif jewels and hamsa hand pendants.

– a gold nail necklace, circa 1970

a rose gold and diamond necklace, circa 1970

a gold and diamond necklace, circa 1970

Page 32: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Quintessential Jewels of the 1960s

Comprising of diffferent textures of materials, bright colors and abstract forms.

Cartierset of lapis lazuli and gold jewelry,

comprising bracelet and ring, circa 1967 ( left )

Piagetlapis lazuli and gold ‘swimming pool’

wristwatch, circa 1969 ( right )

Page 33: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Hermes ( from left )

gold collar necklace

gold horse bracelet, circa 1960

gold bracelet watch

gold link bracelet

Page 34: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Van Cleef & Arpels‘jackie o’ gold cuff bracelet ( left )

Jean Mahiegold cuff bracelet ( right )

Bulgaripair of aquamarine,

sapphire and gold ear clips

Page 35: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Van Cleef & Arpelscolombian emerald and

diamond sautoir necklace, circa 1965

Emeralds weighing 97.19 carats Diamonds weighing 116.05 carats

Van Cleef & Arpelsretro multi-gem

and diamond ‘thai dancer’ brooch, circa 1940

Van Cleef & Arpelsjade, diamond and ivory ring

circa 1975

Page 36: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Cartier

The idea for this curiously misshapen watch is said to have been inspired in 1967 by a Cartier client who wished to celebrate

his good fortune having survived an unpleasant accident. Its surrealist shape demanded perfection in the art of

the watchmaker. First launched in a limited edition of twelve, the model continues to be produced in variations of the original.

– pink sapphire and diamond ‘crash’ wristwatch

Page 37: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

Viren Bhagatpair of natural pearl

and diamond cufflinks

Viren Bhagatpair of onyx and diamond cufflinks

Viren Bhagatpair of ruby and diamond cufflinks ( top )

pair of ruby, mother-of-pearl and diamond cufflinks ( bottom )

Page 38: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature
Page 39: Paul Flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature

PMS VIOLET U

FD LOGO REVISED 10/11/11

21 east 65th street new york, ny 10065 | 212 772 2440 | fd-inspired.com