paul flato - fd-inspired.com · cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a maltese cross,...
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Paul Flato ( from top )
pair of enamel, silver and gold ‘envelope’ vanity cases,
circa 1939
pair of ruby and gold ‘feet’ brooch clips, circa 1940
Illias Lalounisgold necklace
Cartiermulti-gem and gold ‘cowboy’
brooch, circa 1965
Tiffany & Co.gold and diamond
‘cactus’ brooch
Paul Flatopair of ruby and diamond ‘boot’
brooches, circa 1945
Cartiermulti-gem and enamel
‘sioux’ clip brooch, circa 1938
1960s Van Cleef & Arpels ( from top )
diamond and gold bracelet
emerald, sapphire and diamond bracelet
sapphire and diamond bracelet
diamond and gold bracelet
David Webb
David Webb created, and was noted for, his unusual menagerie of gold and enamelled frogs, monkeys,
elephants and jewels inspired by American themes and motifs. –
( from left )
pair of multi-gem and diamond ear pendants
enamel and gold bracelet
ruby, enamel and gold monkey ring
David Webb18k gold, emerald and diamond frog box, circa 1966
Diamonds weighing approximately 29.30 carats Emeralds weighing approximately 39.24 carats.Gross weight approximately 72.40 troy ounces.
9 x 8 x 4 1/2 inches. Signed David Webb.
Evocative of Giuliano and his jewels, which were produced in the neo-Renaissance style, pierced,
delicately enameled and set discreetly with small faceted precious stones
–antique multi-gem and enamel bracelet,
circa 1860
antique ivory, multi-gem and gold elephant object,
circa 1900
Cartierart deco enamel, coral
and carved emerald vanity case, circa 1930
Buccellati
pair of ruby, ivory and gold ear clips
pair of ivory and gold bangles
Cartier
Cartier has long had an association with felines, with a panther motif appearing on a wristwatch as early as 1914. When Jeanne Toussaint
became the ‘Directrice a la Haute Joaillerie’ in 1933, Louis Cartier referred to her as ‘The Panther’ both for her indomitable personality and tastes for
exotic motifs. Toussaint was to have a profound influence on Cartier jewels, adopting the panther and numerous other animals, and for over
thirty years oversaw the creation of the most sophisticated pieces.
–onyx and diamond ‘panther’ ring
onyx colored diamond and emerald ‘tiger’ bracelet
Verduraemerald and sapphire ’y’ necklace
Eleven emeralds weighing approximately 426.45 carats and one sapphire weighing approximately 29.28 carats
emerald, coral and diamond lion brooch
Emerald bead weighing approximately 162.50 carats
emerald and diamond ring of 5.21 carats
Colombian Origin, No Oil Enhancement
Cartiersapphire and diamond ring of 12.64 carats
Ceylon Origin, No Heat Enhancement
Oscar Heyman & Brothersruby and diamond ring of 17.92 carats,
circa 1965
Burmese Origin, No Heat Enhancement
pair of art deco diamond ear pendants weighing 16.75 carats
Harry Winston ( right )
pair of sapphire and diamond ear clips
Paul Flato( left )
diamond and platinum starfish brooch,
circa 1939
The 1960s is considered to be the zenith in the career of the remarkable jeweler Harry Winston, of which the present sapphire ear clips are an
outstanding example. Known for his instinctive love and knowledge of precious gemstones, Winston combined classic design with sparing
use of color, which allowed the stones to do the talking.
Viren Bhagat
Inspiration for Viren Bhagat comes from the celebrated period of India’s past, taking the best of older jewelry forms prevalent
in the the Mughal decorative arts of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and making them feel new and contemporary.
–pair of natural pearl and diamond ear pendants
natural pearl and diamond ring
Viren Bhagat ( from left )
pair of natural pearl and diamond ear clips
pair of diamond bangle bracelets of approximately 86.59 carats
diamond ring of 5.17 carats, d color, internally flawless clarity
Hemmerlepair of diamond and sand-blasted
platinum cuff bracelets
Weighing 8.69 carats total
Taffinpair of multi-colored sapphire
and platinum earclips
Weighing 43.10 carats total
Natural Pearls
Magnificent in their luminosity and iridescence, natural pearls are the only gems perfect in themselves; their natural beauty unaided by cutting, faceting or polishing.
In many cultures, natural pearls represent purity, and have been the preferred symbol of wealth, rank and authority of kings and emperors throughout the world.
The simple and elegant nature of the pearl makes it one of the most enduring of jewels, and the near exhaustion of resources has led to a finite supply of these gems
and explains their ever increasing value. Though currently all but exhausted, the most consistent producer of high quality pearls historically was the Persian Gulf,
where one can presume the present strands originated.
– ( from left )
multi-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace sautoir
pair of art deco natural pearl and diamond ear pendants, circa 1928
Cartier: The Mystery Clock
Mysterious because the platinum and diamond-set hands simply float in the midst of the transparent rock crystal. The secret is that the mechanism is hidden in the side columns and base, and the dial
consists of two crystal plates that have a hand fixed to each side. The cog mechanism, also hidden within the borders, moves the two
parallel disks so the the hands appear to mysteriously rotate.
–rock crystal, diamond and multi-gem ‘mystery’ clock,
circa 1980
Cartier: Tutti Frutti
Few jewels have captured the imagination and enthusiasm of collec-tors as the ‘Tutti Frutti’ creations by Cartier. The style was originally called simply ‘pierres de couleur’ (colored stones). Only in the 1940s
was it named ‘Tutti Frutti’, probably inspired by the fruit jewelry which was famously worn by Carmen Miranda in her number ‘The
Lady in the Tutti Frutti Hat’ in the 1943 film The Gang’s All Here. Emblazoned with strikingly engraved gemstones of varied hues, the style is a direct translation of the colorful enamel seen on the reverse
of India’s traditional jewels, which inspired something of a craze in Europe between the wars. The emphasis on the carved texture con-trasts with the white geometrical design more commonly found in Art Deco jewels and introduces nature in the design with the inclu-
sion of gems carved in leaf, berry and blossom shapes.
–art deco sapphire and diamond ‘tutti frutti’ necklace,
circa 1930
Cartier: Egyptian Revival
The arts of ancient Egypt held a fascination for designers in the first two decades of the twentieth century; this craze intensifying after
each new discovery. In 1908, a royal tomb at Thebes was discovered and six years later the Pyramid of Sesostris II was excavated. But it
was Howard Carter’s opening of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922 that precipitated a veritable rage. Soon, pharaonic motifs appeared
in all aspects of the decorative arts, particularly in jewelry design. –
art deco egyptian revival multi-gem and enamel ring, circa 1925
Carved Burmese Ruby weighing 11.80 carats
Verdura Meets Chanel
In the 1930s, Coco Chanel approached her friend Fulco di Verdura about designing a pair of cuff bracelets. Fulco’s brilliantly colored byzantine
inspired aesthetic complemented the new direction espoused by Chanel, who at the time had been strongly influenced by her affair with Grand Duke Dimitri of Russia. Fulco’s design, two unique yet complimentary
cuffs in enamel over silver, each centered upon a Maltese cross, set with stones in a colorful array of sizes and shapes. The bracelets became a signature of Chanel’s, who wore them constantly, and to this day the
Maltese cross remains an important design element in both Verdura and Chanel’s collections. To mark the 70th anniversary of its founding,
Verdura created a limited edition of 70 cuffs that replicate the Chanel originals, these set in enamel over gold.
Chanelamethyst and emerald ring, circa 1930 ( left )
Verdurapair of multi-gem, enamel
and gold limited edition cuff bracelets ( right )
Suzanne Belperron
Characterized by bold and pure lines, Suzanne Belperron’s style was her signature. It was her ability to fuse the simple with the artful that made her an artist in her day, and a cult figure now.
– ( from left )
sapphire, diamond and gold cuff bracelet, circa 1940
amethyst and gold grapes brooch, circa 1936
cabochon emerald and platinum ring of approximately 6.00 carats, circa 1945
diamond and platinum ring of approximately 5.00 carats, circa 1945
Hemmerle
Modernist, purist, Hemmerle is known for working with materials such as copper, brass, silver, wood and pairing them
with exceptional gems and diamonds. –
( below )
satinwood and colored diamond cuff bracelet
olivewood and demantoid garnet cuff bracelet
cushion-cut diamond and copper ring of 7.84 carats
pair of wood and diamond ear clips of approximately 12.00 carats
Bulgari
The 1980s were the decade of the triumphal success of Bulgari design, characterized by important gemstones juxtaposed in
unusual color combinations and smooth, rounded shapes, as well as for the large use of yellow gold.
– ( left to right )
multi-gem, gold and diamond sautoir, circa 1975
carved amethyst, emerald and yellow diamond ring
pair of diamond and gold ‘alveare’ bracelets
diamond and gold ‘xo’ ring
Rolex ( from left )
gold wristwatch with blue dial
reference 1806
oyster perpetual gold gmt-master with ‘rootbeer’ dial
tri-colored gold president with green vinette diamond dial
reference 18039b
Van Cleef & Arpels onyx and diamond sautoir necklace,
circa 1970
Verdura pair of multi-gem and
gold maltese cross cuff bracelets
Bulgari
Bulgari’s most recognizable timepiece, the sinuous and flexible snake watch, dates back to the 1940s. Bold, with serpent-like coils
and bright enamel plaques, each terminates with a jeweled head concealing the dial. The snake watch has grown to become an
unmistakable icon of both jeweled bracelet watches and of the House of Bulgari.
–enamel, ruby and gold ‘snake’ wristwatch, circa 1960
a single-strand of jade and diamond beads
Cartiera multi-gem and
diamond ‘bird’ brooch, circa 1960
Van Cleef & Arpels ( from left )
retro multi-gem and gold ‘passe partout’ necklace, circa 1939
pair of retro gold and diamond ‘snowflake’ ear clips, circa 1938
multi-gem and diamond ‘bird of paradise’ brooch
Boivin
From 1917 to 1959,the House of Boivin was run by Jeanne Boivin, widow of its founder, in close cooperation with her daughter Germaine and designer Juliette Moutard, all of whom had a
predilection for pieces inspired by the animal kingdom. Elephants naturally played a premiere role; bejeweled with vibrant colored
gems and accented by dangling baguette-cut diamonds. It sits among Boivin’s more elegant jewels, and provides a lovely example of the
vivid imaginations of the female trio. –
a multi-gem and gold elephant pendant necklace, circa 1940
( from left )
a small carnelian and gold pendant, circa 1970
a large carnelian and gold pendant, circa 1970
a large rose gold and diamond pendant, circa 1970
Aldo Cipullo
Cartier designer Aldo Cipullo created the iconic ‘Love Bracelet’ for the house in 1969 – a solid gold symbol of enduring
commitment – which was followed by other icons, including his nail motif jewels and hamsa hand pendants.
– a gold nail necklace, circa 1970
a rose gold and diamond necklace, circa 1970
a gold and diamond necklace, circa 1970
Quintessential Jewels of the 1960s
Comprising of diffferent textures of materials, bright colors and abstract forms.
Cartierset of lapis lazuli and gold jewelry,
comprising bracelet and ring, circa 1967 ( left )
Piagetlapis lazuli and gold ‘swimming pool’
wristwatch, circa 1969 ( right )
Hermes ( from left )
gold collar necklace
gold horse bracelet, circa 1960
gold bracelet watch
gold link bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels‘jackie o’ gold cuff bracelet ( left )
Jean Mahiegold cuff bracelet ( right )
Bulgaripair of aquamarine,
sapphire and gold ear clips
Van Cleef & Arpelscolombian emerald and
diamond sautoir necklace, circa 1965
Emeralds weighing 97.19 carats Diamonds weighing 116.05 carats
Van Cleef & Arpelsretro multi-gem
and diamond ‘thai dancer’ brooch, circa 1940
Van Cleef & Arpelsjade, diamond and ivory ring
circa 1975
Cartier
The idea for this curiously misshapen watch is said to have been inspired in 1967 by a Cartier client who wished to celebrate
his good fortune having survived an unpleasant accident. Its surrealist shape demanded perfection in the art of
the watchmaker. First launched in a limited edition of twelve, the model continues to be produced in variations of the original.
– pink sapphire and diamond ‘crash’ wristwatch
Viren Bhagatpair of natural pearl
and diamond cufflinks
Viren Bhagatpair of onyx and diamond cufflinks
Viren Bhagatpair of ruby and diamond cufflinks ( top )
pair of ruby, mother-of-pearl and diamond cufflinks ( bottom )
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