package / nuc management 101 spring / early summer mid summer early fall / preparation for winter 1
TRANSCRIPT
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Package / Nuc Management 101
Spring / Early SummerMid Summer
Early Fall / Preparation for Winter
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Introduction
• I got my first 2 hives in 1980• They were a gift from a bee keeping friend• Only stipulation was I had to catch them and
hive them myself
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Scared ? Hell Yea !!!!!
Although a cool day I was totally soaked within 10 minutesTo make matters worst I missed the queen on the first attempt and 10 minutes later the swarm was back in the same tree.I got her on the second try !
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Package / Nuc Management 101
Spring / Early Summer
A time of Plenty
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Nucs & Packages
Packages and Nucs have some similarities and some differences so they are handled differently
Major differencesQueen is already laying (Nuc)Queen is newly mated (Package)Hive already has brood, Larvae & Eggs (Nuc)Capped brood could take a few weeks (Package)Age distribution of colony is in balance (Nuc)Age distribution may / may not be in balance (Package)Nuc is more likely to produce some excess honey in the
first yearLet’s look at each one separately
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My Package(s) are here !!!!!
How do I hive them?
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Package InstallationRemove wooden cover. Set it aside you will need it again Mist bees with Sugar syrupKnock the bees down and remove the feed canRemove the queen cage and cover the opening back upRemove the cork end of the queen cage and insert between framesRemove 3 / 4 frames from the center of the hive
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Package InstallationAgain knock the bees to the bottom and remove the coverTurn the box over and shake the bees into the hiveReplace the frames, inner cover and top coverPut feeder and entrance reducer on the hive
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Package InstallationAlternative Method
This method puts less bees in the airBasically the same process without the “bee shake”Install the queen cage into the hive and don’t remove any framesPut the inner cover back on the hiveRemove the package cover and turn the package overCenter the package hole over the hole in center coverBy evening almost all the bees will find their way into the hive
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Nuc Installation1) Remove the 4/5 center frames in the target hive2) Transfer the Nuc frames to the target hive3) Put on a feeder & reduce the entrance
Let’s watch a video There are a couple of things done here that are probably not the best methodWatch closely we will discuss afterwards
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How to install a 5 Frame Nuc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Q7g2pJthdc
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FeedersTo Feed or Not To Feed – The Bee keepers tight rope !When do I stop?Can I overfeed a new colony ?Do I treat packages differently than Nucs?What is the best kind of feeder?What syrup concentrate should I use 1/1 or 2/1?When should I change and why?
Let’s look at each question separately
Let’s start by looking at different types of feeders
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There are 3 basic types of feedersInside the hive
Entrance FeedersFree Feeding
Free Feeding
Entrance Feeding
Inside Feeder
Lets look at benefits and pitfalls of each type
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Free FeedingBenefits
Few if any. Easy accessPitfalls
1 Impossible to determine how much a specific hive has taken if you have more than one hive2 Will promote robbing if you have multiple hives3 Close contact of bees form different hives promotes the spread of diseases4 Weather sensitive
Examples of free Feeding
Although used by some bee keepers, this method is not recommended or preferred
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Entrance Feeders
Benefits1 Easy to measure a hives intake2 Easy to fill but time consuming if you have many3 Keeps robbing to a minimum – entrance reducer
Pitfalls1 Generally take more labor to keep filled than top feeders because they hold less. Typically 1 quart2 Can promote robbing if you have mature hives near by not being fed
Examples of entrance feeders
Far better than free feeding. Recommended for maintenance feeding. Also a good system if you are feeding a few hives especially if they are at a similar stage of development
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Inside The Hive FeedingBenefits
1 Easy to measure a hives intake2 Easy to fill 3 Prevents robbing 4 Holds much more syrup for less frequent tending
a) As much as 2 gallonsPitfalls
1 None
Examples of inside feeders
Much preferred method if you have multiple hives where robbing can be an issue.Allows access in bad weatherUsually a fast way to increase food stores
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The Tight Rope ! Should I feed my new packages or nucs ?
* For the first few weeks- Absolutely !* Starvation is a contributing factor to nuc / package failures* Watch nectar flow and weather closely. If its April / May and the flow is strong you can stop. If you are not sure…… feed !* Remember that package has no food stores at all !* Several days of rain at this critical time means death
What syrup concentrate should I use?* Early season 1/1 is fine. It will promote the queen to lay and expand the colony. As the season progress the requirements will change and so will the concentrate. We will cover this later on
Do I treat Packages differently than Nucs?* Yes they are at very different stages of development* Remember a Nuc is a miniature colony already under development The queen is laying, there is brood and larvae in the hive and most importantly they have some food stores* Packages will usually require more feedings and definitely more attention to detail
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The Tight Rope ! The Million Dollar Question
Can I overfeed a new package or Nuc?
Yes Yes Yes !
Feeding stimulates the queen to lay regardless of the time of yearOur flow slows way down by the end of June
Vary geographically by as little as a mileIn a wild colony the queen reduces egg laying as the flow slows to keep the colony in balance
Tons of brood and no food is a disaster- and she know it !What happens to the colony balance when we feed through July and August?
But with that said there are time when we should feed through the summer
Slowly developing colonyQueen replacement by colony or beekeeper
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The Tight Rope ! Phone Call Sat August 8th
A young woman called and said, “ My bees are covering all 10 frames in both hive bodies. I tried to stop feeding them early June but they started to eat their honey stores so I kept feeding them. Now the hive is packed with bees and the top box has 6 frames of brood, I’m still feeding and I’m afraid to stop. What do I do?”
Assess the current situation What should her course of action been back in June and why?What is likely to happen if she does nothing?What is her best course of action now to bring this colony into some kind of balance?How likely is it that this hive will come out of winter like a blockbuster or do you think it will survive the winter?
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I bought a package last spring and fed them all summer long. They looked fantastic! Lots of bees, very busy at the entrance with lots of bees flying every time I checked them. They looked so good going into winter I can’t believe they died over the winter.
What Happened ?
I could not count the number of times I have been asked this question by new bee keepers over the years
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Package / Nuc Management 101
Mid Summer
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As you begin to access your package / nuc from earlier this year keep one important point in mind …….. “A hive is never stagnant, it is in constant flux either building food stores or consuming food stores”
As hive populations and brood production decline due to greatly reduced or non-existent nectar flow, your primary concern is accessing food stores and overall colony health
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Hive Inspections
How often should I look inside my hive?1) Many factors come into play but generally every couple weeks is plenty
What am I looking for when I do an inspection1) Depending on the time of year your emphasis will change
Examples: Heavy brood production in early spring Food stores late summer & Early fall
2) Brood, eggs, overall colony condition, evidence of pests or disease, food stores and available space
What if I can’t find the queen?1) If you have eggs and brood your queen is most likely alive and well2) In a large active colony it can sometimes be difficult even for long time bee keepers to find the queen
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Hive Inspections
How do I actually do the inspection1) First remove top cover and inner cover2) Now remove one of the outside frames
This gives you room to work and reduces the possibility of “rolling the queen”3) Now carefully and gently pry the next frame free and you can remove it for inspection or slide it into the empty space4) If you feel it necessary you can examine each subsequent frame in the same manner5) Be sure to put the frames back in the same position they were in when you started
Are inspections disruptive to the colony?Yes they definitely areSome feel that a simple inspection disrupts the colony for several days
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How to perform a hive inspection
I never realized how many bad videos there are on You TubeWatched at least 15 before finding this one
Pat attention to the speed and easy this bee keeper displaysHe is obviously quite experienced
Note how he creates working space first then proceeds frame by frame to do his inspection
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9jgnmlIrK8
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Small Hive Beetles
As you do hive inspections keep a keen eye out for small hive beetlesThey can destroy your honey crop in a matter of daysUsually find them on the top cover being held hostage by a group of bees
Control will be covered later in this class
Heavy populations of this pest can cause a colony to pick up and leave the hive !
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When should I add the second brood chamber
There is no set time line for adding the second brood chamber and it is dependent on several factorsOnce the colony has built up to the point where they are covering 8 to 10 frames in the first box you should add the second box right on topAt this point you should still be feedingOnce they have wax pulled on the majority of the top box you can discontinue feeding depending on the time of year and current nectar flow as we discussed
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When should I add my first honey super
When bees are covering all frames in the top box a super can be added depending on the time of year and the flow
Generally a package will not produce a honey crop in year one. Too much time is taken up building the colony and getting enough stores for winterSome Nucs will produce honey in year one with the right conditionsAfter July 1 its probably too late in most areas to add a super
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What should my hive look like ?
By now your hive should have significant food stores of honey & pollen in both brood chambers.
1) Outside 2 to 3 frames on both sides should be relatively full of honey / pollen
2) Brood production should be restricted to the center 3 /4 frames in each chamber and the center frames in the top box may contain significant food stores in a strong colony with good nectar flow
3) You will probably find brood production is low due to low nectar flow and the colony begins to prepare for winter by reducing total population
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To Feed Or Not To Feed
Can I overfeed a package or Nuc ? I’ve been told to feed a package all summer in the first year
Absolutely !!! (Late season swarms, Over populated hives that deplete winter stores quickly and colony dies from starvation)
How do I know when they have enough food and I should stop?Fine line – Walking a tight rope as a bee keeper
Does Hive management for varroa mites come into play here?Breaking brood Production cycle – a good time to treat if you
are going to
If food stores are light how long can I continue to feed?1/1 or 2/1
Tricky this time of year- Bee careful !
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Package / Nuc Management 101
Late Summer/ Fall / Winter Preperation
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Varroa Mites
Treating for Varroa is a personal management decisionMany articles have been written on the effects of total colony healthTo gain the most from many of these products you have to break the brood cycle
How do I break the cycleWhen is it OK to start feeding again ?Can I treat and feed at the same time?
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Summer turns to Fall - What do I do Now ?
As summer turns to fall, our focus turns to making sure we have sufficient stores of food to make it through the winter.Hives should be heavy with honey and pollen at this timeTop box should be around 70% full of honey and the bottom brood chamber should have honey on the outside 2 to 3 frames on both sides
Risk of swarming by over feeding in pretty much nonexistent at this time
Feed – Feed – Feed !!!!!
Feeding now will stimulate the queen to lay and produce a crop of young bees to take the colony through winter
At the same time feeding will continue to fill empty cells and areas in the hive with food stores
Now is the time to feed 2/1. From October 1 on you can no overfeedI feed until the bees wont take any more or the weather gets too cold and bees go into cluster and stop feeding. In Virginia that usually doesn’t happen until December
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Fall turns to Winter
Discontinue feeding when the weather turns cold or bees stop feedingMake sure your entrance reducers are on to prevent mice from finding a warm home for the winter
They will make a huge mess if they get in
Winter means spring is around the corner and our bees will once again be busy…………. And so will you !
Year 2 brings a few different challenges but this is for an intermediate class at a later time
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As a Beekeeper, you will never stop learning regardless how much experience you have
It is a fascinating, very rewarding hobby and I hope this presentation will help guide you through your first year
Thank You !