Organic and Fair

Trade Cotton in

Africa

by Saro G. Ratter

(Dipl.Ing.agr.)

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Introduction• Initiative of private companies:

ORGANIC EXCHANGEwww.organicexchange.org/

• Initiative of NGOs:www.organiccottondirectory.net/

• EU – Programme: “Fair dialogue- mutual benefit: responsible cotton stewardship” www.organiccottoneurope.net/

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Organic Cotton ConferenceFebruary 2004 in Hamburg,

Germany• EU-Organic Cotton Working Group

met in June 2004

• 2nd Organic Cotton Conference in Cotonou, Bénin in October 2004

• The Conference Declaration and further information can be found at:

www.organiccottoneurope.net/.

 

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Factors for improvement• Good extension service• Better basic agricultural know-how• Better know-how about low risk and

sustainable production systems• Reduced dependency of income on

only one cash crop• Food security (in quality and

quantity)• Reliable input supply• Good infrastructure for the

marketing of agricultural products• Reliable and fair market partners

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bioRe - Training Centre

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bioRe - Training Centre

FFS – Training on use of ox-weeder

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Integration of trap cropsSunflower + Pigeon peas

Chemical free production does not mean organic.

The soil fertility must be improved or at least maintained in an organic production system.

This is the main principle laid down in the IFOAM and EU - Regulations for Organic Agriculture.

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American Bollworm

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Benefits of Organic Agriculture

Benefits for the farmers • Increased productivity compared to

traditional farming.• Higher profits for the farmers.• Diversification of the agricultural

production • Additional income by marketing of

other crops • Less health risks for the farmers by

not using chemical insecticides.• No risk of working days lost as no

health hazards with botanical insecticides

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Benefits for the village community 

• Creation of new employment in the village.

• Additional income for the village.

• Less environmental pollution of soil and water by not using chemical insecticides.

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Benefits for the country • Higher foreign currency earnings

for the country because of the higher value of the exported certified organic cotton.

• Less foreign currency spent on imported agricultural inputs like chemical insecticides.

• Better reputation for the country which can be useful for the tourism industry.

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FFS - Farmers Field School

Planting Moringa trees

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Sowing in rows

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Soil erosionControl measures

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Compost making

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Cotton + Sunflower

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Harrowing with ox-weeder

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bioRe bioRe Farmers with their groundnuts

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bioRe farmers with Pigeon peas + Sesame

The UK marketTowards 10% organic by 2010

• € 36 million – 0.2% of cotton textiles sales in 2002

• But sales increasing at 38% per year (2003) and accelerating

• The sector grew 60% in 2003 • Organic cotton use has more than doubled

between 2001 and 2003 • However, at this growth rate 10% will only

be achieved in 2015, unless…

• At least one major retailer starts an organic cotton programme each year.

• And new organic production begins requiring over time some 25-50,000 small farmers.

Source: Simon Ferrigno, PAN-UK

The UK marketTowards 10% organic by 2010

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Steps to develop organic cotton -1

• Accept that organic cotton production is possible

• Accept that organic cotton production can be a profitable option for many African farmers

• Abolish regulations that hinder organic agriculture (e.g. mandatory use of chemicals)

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Steps to develop organic cotton -2

• Allow botanicals for pest control• Protect the organic producers

against GM varieties• Research in organic farming

practices• Provide a qualified and efficient

extension service and training for the farmers

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Support to organic cotton -1

• Financing of research and training (at least 5-10% of the research funds)

• A strong participation of the farmers to determine the priorities of research

• Assistance in set-up of Internal Control Systems

Extensionists measuring a plot

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Support to organic cotton -2

• Financing certification• Partnership with textile

companies• Contract production• Preferential and tariff free

access for sustainable textiles in the EU

• Setting targets like 10% OC by 2010

• No subsidies for chemicals

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More Informationabout

www.biore.ch International Environmental Award

for Sustainable Development Partnerships

from ICC and UNEP in the context of the World Summit on Sustainable Development

in Johannesburg in the year 2002.

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Summary:

• A holistic approach is required to improve the ecological and economic conditions of cotton production.

• Organic cotton is an option for many farmers.  

• Organic cotton production works in diversified production systems.

• Know-how about organic farming methods can replace chemical inputs.

• Partnership with fair and reliable business partners is important.