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On Whose Road

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Editor’s Note

Here’s to shaking up how we think about travel. On Whose Road is a project born of a discontent in the way we tell sto-ries and hopes to inspire brilliance and hustle and perspec-tive.

Issue 001 is a book that peeks into what it was like to be in Indonesia, Australia and Hawaii in March of 2015. No more, no less. It’s an imperfect yet honest attempt to capture the powers and pains of traveling alone. An ode to multiple beaches, coffee shops and strangers who are nice. Right now this is just my story, but I hope the next go-around you feel like throwing yours out to the tangible wind of these pages too.

So many people made this possible. I love you and I like you all.

Enjoy.Cheyenne

more @ onwhoseroad.com

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1. Wolf - Sylvan Esso2. Can I Kick It? - A Tribe Called Quest3. Don’t Wait - Mapei ft. Chance the Rapper & The Social Experiment4. Cheers - Blake Mills5. Borderline with My Atoms - Hiatus Kaiyote6. Psycho Killer - Talking Heads7. Hang Loose - Alabama Shakes8. Can’t Stop Thinking About You - Tobias Jesso Jr.9. Flicker (Kanye West Rework) - Lorde10. Until We Get There - Lucius

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Sunday Dance Party

Yoga Barn, Ubud

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The airport in Bali looks kind of like the airport in Ghana. The salt-rusted buildings look like Florida, or Viareggio. The forest looks like Puerto Rico. The traffic is a clusterfuck, like a round-about in Rome, all rushing and scooters and no lanes. The inter-lacing bamboo forming a tunnel to the W Resort is like the in-terlacing trees forming a tunnel to the double-wide in Arkansas. And so the game of association goes, until the next time you go someplace new, you might say, “This is like Bali,” and can maybe begin to actually understand what Bali was.

gasoline is sold in vodka bottles

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Museum of Contemporary Art Australia

Keith Haring

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“If you’re twenty-two, physically fit, hungry to learn and be better, I urge you to travel – as far and as widely as possible. Sleep on floors if you have to. Find out how other people live and eat and cook. Learn from them wherever you go.” - Anthony Bourdain

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An Ode To Australian Cafe Culture

A damn fine cup of coffee:

Flat whites smooth as velvet;Iced coffee spiked with ice cream;Avocado toast with all copious red pepper flakes...

Australian coffee shops close no later than 3pm sharp, but take my word - they’re so good you’ll be a forevermore morning person.Melbourne: The Queensberry Street Pour House, 1000 £ BendNYC: Two Hands, Happy Bones, Bluestone Lane

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Primary Sources

Warlimpirrnga Tjapaltjarri (Australian Aboriginal, b. c. 1958, east of Ki-wirrkurra, Western Australia) - Wilkinkarra (Lake Mackay), 2006 Paintings: Acrylics on Belgian Linen

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Is Alice Springs A Wonderland?

2524Songlines, Chatwin

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Sydney, Two-Faced

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Conscious Commerce

Take the bet: On your next trip, only buy from fair trade, locally-sourced, ethically-sound businesses.

L - Eyeglass case, wallet, & magnets via The Trad-ing Circle, located at the Abbotsford Convent in Alice Springs. The income generating partnering projects, micro enterprises and community cooperatives help women to trade their way out of poverty with dignity.

R - Small notebook: Utopia Giftware, with royalties returned to the designing Aboriginal artist. Lip balm: Handmade locally in Alice Springs, purchased at the Sunday market. Large notebook: Public-Supply, which channels 25% of profits from every sale to a teacher in a high-need class-room, who will use the money for a project that drives cre-ativity.

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Lavya Yalamanchi is a dynamic woman. You can find her in Greenwich Village with her Gracie (her too-quickly-growing kitten) and if you move around enough pairs of shoes you can ask her about what it is like writing for BBC Travel, developing an inves-tigative editorial on extraterrestrials or how she will work at Anthropologie at least one day per week for the rest of her life, just for the discount.

Where are you from and where is home now?I’m from all over the place, but New York City is home for me right now.

Did you have any expectations or pre-conceived notions about the culture or places you were exposed to? What sur-prised you?I think you always have preconceived no-tions about every place; it’s impossible not to. And they’re never quite accurate, so you’re always surprised. When I went to Ha-waii the demographic really surprised me... I didn’t know that such a large percentage of the population was Japanese and that although they shared the identity of being “Hawaiian” they didn’t seem to know or care all that much about true Hawaiian cul-ture.

Learn any handy trivia facts?The hawaiian airlines in-flight magazine taught me that the hawaiian language has many different words for different types of rain. I think they said 52? Not sure.

What did you take home with you? (both tangible and non)I took home a lot of stuff. I took a pebble from the blacks and beach at Punalu’u which I’m sure you’re not actually supposed to and which I feel quite bad about. I shopped a lot. I also took home some island inspiration - I came home and photographed a hula dancing class. Sometimes during travel you find yourself making comparisons to contextualize what you’re experiencing - did you do this at all on your trip? What did Hawaii re-mind you of?Hawaii reminded me a lot of India in a way. It shared some exotic elements that I’d almost forgotten experiencing, like freshly cut coconuts, chewing on raw cane sugar stalks, the sheer wilderness of the backcountry.

What was your reading material of choice for the trip?I read Dracula by Bram Stoker! Did you get a chance to see Hawaii from a local’s perspective?I have a friend who lives in Hawaii who took me out for a day to some local food spots. I wish I had spent more time exploring the locals’ Hawaii but it was first and foremost a family trip.

Best breakfast?I’m sad to say we pretty much room-serviced breakfast every day because we’re lazy. You graduate soon - what’s next? Honolulu, maybe? I wish, but honestly - I have no idea.

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“She comes out of herself to go to the other, a traveller in unexplored places; she does not refuse, she approaches, not to do away with the space between, but to see it, to experience what she is not, what she is, what she can be…She is not able to return to herself, never set-tling down, pouring out, going ev-erywhere to the other…If there is a self proper to woman, paradoxically it is her capacity to depropriate her-self without self interest: endless body, without ‘end’…moving and boundless change, a cosmos where eros never stops travelling.” - French feminists, Cixous & Clement, 1986

Museum of Contemporary Art Australia

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Like A Local

You can try to prepare when you move from Honolulu to New York City, but as Rei Matoba ffound out, some things you could just never see coming...like being asked if you rode a dolphin to school everyday.

Here’s her recs on how to get a glimpse of some real Hawaiian days, via social media:@jake_of_all_trades@brooklynhawaii@venturehawaii @ambermozo@lanalanestudios

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Georgia O’Keeffee, Waterfall - No. III - ‘Iao Valley’ 1939

Stay Curious

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Issue 001