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9 x 12240pphardcover, spiral binding978-1-56367-486-0

SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL FROM

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing

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Extended Contents ....................................................ixPreface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1 Tools and Supplies.........................................1

Chapter 2Skirts .........................................................................21

Chapter 3Bodice ......................................................................55

Chapter 4Bodice Variations..........................................79

Chapter 5Necklines and Collars ...........................107

Chapter 6Sleeves ...................................................................133

Chapter 7Dresses..................................................................165

Chapter 8Drawing ..............................................................189

Appendix............................................................221

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Contents

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Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1Tools and Supplies

Draping: Muslin......................................................2Tools and Supplies...........................................2

Comparing the Dress Form to the Drawn Form............................................4

Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6Tools and Supplies...........................................6

Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper......................7Tools and Supplies...........................................7

Terms and Definitions...........................................8Draping ...................................................................10

Taping the Dress Form................................14Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16Drawing ..................................................................17

Tools and Supplies ........................................17Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure...................19

Chapter 2Skirts

Draping the Skirt .................................................22Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38Skirt Variations.....................................................39

Straight Skirt...................................................39Flare Skirt ........................................................42 Six-Gore Skirt.................................................45 Pleated Skirt ....................................................48 Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50

Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52

Chapter 3Bodice

Draping the Bodice..............................................56Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62Making the Bodice Sloper.................................66Drafting the Bodice from Measurements.....68

Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders.....73Completed Bodice Draft .............................74Shaping the Bodice .......................................75

Drawing Options .................................................76

Chapter 4Bodice Variations

Bodice Variations .................................................80 Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination...80Princess Seam.....................................................82Armhole Princess Seam..................................86Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90Drawing Bodice Variations...........................93Side and Waist Darts.......................................94 Shoulder Yoke with Tucks

and Gathered Waist......................................96 Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100Dartless Back Shoulder................................103

Drawing Bodice Details .............................104

Chapter 5Necklines and Collars

Necklines ..................................................108Jewel Neck ..........................................108 V-Neck ................................................110Scoop Neck .........................................112 Square Neck ........................................114Bateau Neck ........................................116

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Collars.......................................................118 Peter Pan Collar ..................................118Pilgrim Collar ......................................120Mock Shawl ........................................122Convertible Collar...............................124Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126Band Collar .........................................128

Drawing Necklines and Collars ................130

Chapter 6Sleeves

Draping the Sleeve ....................................134Stuffed Arm.........................................134Marking the Muslin ...........................140

Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144Draft from Measurements ..................145Draft the Cap ......................................146

Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148Draft....................................................148

Sleeves ......................................................150Leg-o-Mutton......................................150Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152Blouse ..................................................154Full Bell ...............................................156Puff .....................................................158 Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160

Drawing Sleeves .......................................162

Chapter 7Dresses

Dress Foundation Sloper...........................166 Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168 Dresses ......................................................170

Shift Dress ...........................................170Princess Dress ......................................174 Sheath Dress ........................................178Tent Dress............................................180

Drawing Dresses .......................................184Design Variety...........................................186

Chapter 8Drawing

Donald Brooks: Costume and Fashion Designer .............................190

Collars and Cuffs......................................192 Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194Sleeves .......................................................196 Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198Pleating .....................................................200Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice ............202Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204Five Stages for a Garment:

Bodice Variations ...................................206Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208Back Drape ..............................................210Dresses ......................................................212 Sketching Options.....................................214 Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216 Drawing Soft Drape..................................218

AppendixDress Form Measurement Chart ..............222 Standard Sportswear and

Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223Croquis Templates ....................................224 In

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dress as the model used throughout the text todemonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawingare integrated in design development. The com-ponents are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar,sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplinesare similarly integrated in the design of men’s andchildren’s wear.

Each chapter builds on the last. After anintroduction to tools and preparation techniquesin Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin withdraping as the first step in producing a sloper.Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alterna-tive method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusingrespectively on bodice variations, necklines andcollars, and dresses, begin with drafting because,for many of the design variations, these chaptersutilize slopers developed in the previous chapters.In the case of a design variation such as the leg-o-mutton sleeve, for example, drafting the patternis more efficient than draping it.

All design starts with an idea, which needs tobe translated into a sketch. Drawing basics areinterwoven throughout the book, with an empha-sis on understanding body lines in relation to thedress form and proportion. It is directed towardcommunicating specific garment detail in the con-text of related projects. Lessons ground the cre-ative process and strike a balance between thetechnical and visual elements. Drawing informsdraping and drafting, just as these disciplinesinform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on

This book is about a dialog between an artistand a technician. It illustrates the design process,encompassing sketch and garment pattern devel-opment. It depicts the relationship among threedisciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting,and drawing. The integration is presented in ahighly visual format.

These disciplines, particularly draping anddrafting, are often taught in separate classes.Their relationship is integral to efficient and time-saving methods of developing a design and itspattern. Our aim is to create bridges between studio methods and design illustration. Eachchapter renders a combination of skills and thenatural flow among them. Two-dimensionaldesign informs the three-dimensional and viceversa.

Chapters are presented as hands-on learningexperiences with lessons that mimic classroomdemonstrations. Step-by-step photography por-trays the draping process in a sculptural wayrather than using illustrations, which cannot trulydepict the response of fabric draped on a dressform. The images of muslin “sculpture” com-bined with digital drafts offer interchangeablesolutions for pattern development.

Throughout the book, there are alternativemethods used by practicing designers for devel-oping slopers. These are master patterns, createdby draping or drafting and used to generate stylevariations. We chose the basic components of the


Preface

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AcknowledgmentsWe would like to thank Tim Maggio for his pho-tography, technical drawings, and graphics. Thankyou to Fred Gross for his word crafting of drawing text and support. To Wolf FormCompany, thanks for their assistance. We aregrateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as wellas to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse into Donald Brooks’ portfolio. Many thanks toFairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, SylviaWeber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and themulti-talented Fairchild team for helping us tobring this project together. To the reviewers select-ed by the publisher, we express our appreciation oftheir recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico,Kent State University; Andy Chan, MassachusettsCollege of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon StateUniversity; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas—Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco StateUniversity; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College.

We’d also like to thank our students, whoseenthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle ourpassion for fashion.

drawing the fashion figure as well as flats areincluded in each chapter. Drawings correspond topatterns and convey countless ideas for designdiversification and inspiration.

In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibitDonald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons. Shebecame acquainted with Mr. Brooks and hiswork while he served as a visiting designer criticto the fashion design department of ParsonsSchool of Design. This twentieth century design-er is renowned for his accomplishments in cos-tume design as well as on Seventh Avenue. Theauthors found that dresses from the exhibitioncollection served as the ideal inspiration for thisbook. Even using the basic garment componentstaught in this book, Mr. Brooks’ designs exudetimelessness in their execution and fabrication.Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercisesfocused on rendering his designs and their finedesign details. It also depicts the relationship thatexists among draping, drafting, and drawingexemplified in the images of garments fromChapters 2 through 7.

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With experience gained from producing theskirt sloper, you can now develop the bodicepattern. Draping the bodice involves balanc-ing the front and back muslin, distributingand controlling fullness by forming darts,and fitting the neckline and armhole. Themuslin drape is trued and transferred topaper, and a sloper is created. Detailedinstructions depict taking measurements and drafting a flat pattern for the bodiceas another option. Drawing the body contours is a critical factor in visually communicating the fit and form of the bodice. Studies of body lines, proportion, pose, flats, and specs are included in this chapter.

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Draping the BodiceTape the Dress Form• Bust• Center front and center back • Princess lines• Side seam• Base of the neckline• Shoulder seam• Shoulder blade level (4� down from neckline at CB)• Armhole ridgeNote: Do not cover seam lineswith tape. Pin along side them.

Prepare the Muslin

1 Front length: Measure from thedress form neckband to thewaist at CF plus 2�

2 Front width: Measure from theCF at bust level to the sideseam plus 21⁄2 �

Mark the Muslin

1 Measure 1� in from the length-wise torn edge. Draw in CFline

2 Measure from the neckband tothe bust level. Square a lineacross the muslin.

3 Measure from the CF to theside seam across bust level.Add 1⁄2 � for ease. Cross markfor the side seam on the bustline.

Drape

1 Align the muslin lengthand cross grain linewith the tape on thedress form. Pin themuslin at the CF neck-line, 3 � above andbelow the bust tape andwaist. Pin the crossgrain line at the bustpoint at princess line.

2 Distribute 1⁄2 � easeacross the bust line andpin cross mark at theside seam.

BustLevelWidth

CenterFront

Length

Side Seam

21


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Drape the Neckline

1 Pin at the intersection of the center front seam and neckline of the dress form.

2 To release the muslin for fitting, cut a 2� � 2� square off the corner.

3 Pin and slash down the seamallowance (perpendicular to theneckline) toward pin.

4 Continue pinning and slashingalong neckline to the shoulderseam. The muslin should liesmoothly across the chest andshoulder, with no stretching orpulling at neckline. 1⁄8 � ease should be included.

Form the Shoulder Dart

5 Smooth the muslin from theshoulder neck point to theprincess line or midpoint on theshoulder and pin.

6 Smooth the excess muslin fromthe bust line pinned at the sideseam up over the shouldertowards the princess line andpin.

7 Fold the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at theshoulder.

8 Pin the side seam starting at thearm plate down to the waist.

9 Pin out the fullness from theshoulder down towards the bustpoint.

ShoulderDart Neckline

CenterFront

Bust Level

WaistlineSide Seam

7 98

1 2

4


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Draping the Bodice

Form the Waist Dart

1 From the side seam at waist, pin along the waist toward theprincess line. Slash the muslintowards the pins. Allow for 1⁄4 � ease along waist.

2 Smooth and pin from the centerfront waist towards the princessline.

3 Fold the excess muslin to form adart. Pin the fullness at the waistand pin the dart towards thebust point.

Mark the Draped Muslin

4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twilltape along the waist and side seam.

5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waistand the intersection of the side seam at the waistand arm plate. Cross mark at the end of theshoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and atthe shoulder neck point.

6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.

7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing theshoulder and side seam for the back drape.

Bust Point

CenterFront

Waistline

Armhole

SideSeam

Waist Dart

1 3

5 6 7


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Prepare the Back Muslin

• Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to thewaist at Center Back plus 2�.

• Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seamplus 3�.

Mark the Muslin

1 Measure 1� in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the Center Back line.

2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square aline across the muslin.

3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add 1� for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.

4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level.

5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate andcross mark.

Drape the Back

1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, andwaist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along thetape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 1⁄4 � easeto the cross mark at the armhole ridge.

2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing downthe seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulderseam.

Back Muslin

Torn Edge

ShoulderBladeLevel

Bust LineLevel

CenterBack Line

ShoulderBlade CrossMark

CrossMark for SideSeam atBust LineTape


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Draping the BodiceForm the Shoulder Dart

1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulderneck point to the princess line on theshoulder and pin. Muslin should layflat across the chest and shoulderwith no stretching or pulling at theneckline.

2 Smooth the excess muslin from theshoulder blade line at armhole upover the shoulder towards theprincess line and pin.

3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form asmall dart along the princess line.

4 Measure 3� down from the shoulderand mark the vanishing point of thedart with a pin.

Form the Waist Dart

5 From the side seam at the waist, pinalong the waist toward the princessline. Slash the muslin towards the pins.Allow for 1⁄4 � ease along the waist.

6 Smooth and pin from the center backwaist toward the princess line.

7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart along the princess line to 1� above the bust level line.

Mark the Draped Muslin

8 Dot along the bottom of the twilltape along the waist and side seam.

9 Cross mark on either side of thedart at the waist and the intersec-tion of the side seam at the waistand arm plate. Cross mark at theend of the shoulder, on each sideof the shoulder dart and at theshoulder neck point.

10 Dot along the shoulder and neck-line.

1 2

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8 9 10


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Join the Front and Back Bodice

1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centerstoward the sides and pin them closed. Pin thefront over the back at the side seam matchingthe grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tapearound the bodice waistline.

2 Join and pin the front and back shoulderstogether with the excess muslin turned out.Trim, leaving 1� seam allowance.

3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back,matching the shoulder darts.

4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5�. The darts should be centered on the shoulderseam.

5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot aroundthe armhole ridge.

6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate.

7 Blend the front and back waistline by markingalong tape.

1 2

6 7

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Trueing the Bodice Muslin1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping

the side seams pinned together. Unpin the shoul-der seam.

2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure thefront and back waists. They should each include1⁄4 � ease. Adjust if necessary.

Sketching the Upper Torso

Bust Line

3 Square a line from the center line 1� to begintrueing the waistline.

4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing thewaistline along the dots.

5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legswith a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dartpoints may end at the bust level line. Measureacross the bust line. The front and back shouldeach include at least 1⁄2 � ease.

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2

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6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1�.

Mapping Out Darts on the Torso

CenterFront

Princess Seams

7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole. It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.

8 The back armhole will need to be drawn withthe curve in two parts since it’s 1� longer thanthe front.

9 Draw the side seams.

10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw theshoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may beslightly curved from the princess line to the neck.Use the curve to draw that in.

7

6

8

9

10


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Trueing the Bodice Muslin

11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbonpaper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seamto obtain the jog of the dart.

12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 1⁄4 � atthe center front and widen the neck 1⁄8 � at the shoulder seam.Use an L-square for the first 1⁄4 � of the neckline in the front and1⁄2 � in the back.

13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve ofthe originally marked neck.

14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 1⁄2 � atthe armhole and neckline. A 1� seam should be allowed for theside seam, shoulder, waist, and centers.

11

12

13a

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15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at thescrew level on the armholes and a second notch 1⁄4 � below the notch for the back.

Drawing Flats

Steps for drawing a flat free-handwithout a flat figure reference.

1 Neckline

2 Shoulder andthen Armhole

3 CreatingMatching Side Seams

4 PlanningHemline Width

5 StartingShoulder Darts

6 FinishingWaistline Darts

Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correctproportion and fit of a garment.

Flat Figure Sketch onAnother Page

Tracing Paper or Semi-Translucent Marker Paper

Sketching Only the Garment as it Would Fit

Flat of YourGarment without theFigure

A ProportionsB Sewing LinesC FitD FInished Flat

A B C

D


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Making the Bodice SloperMuslin to Paper Pattern

1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, removethe pins and press flat.

2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. Place themuslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weightsor push pins to hold the muslin in place.

3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel witha serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal.Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines.

4 Allow 1� for the side seam, shoulder, and center seamallowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 1⁄2 �

allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.

Paper Pattern to Sloper

1 Cut oaktag twice the size of thepattern. Fold it in half and pressa sharp, flat folded edge. Drawa cross grain line using an L-square. Fold the center seamallowance of the paper patternunder and align with the foldand the cross grain.

2 Transfer all pattern lines to theoaktag using a needle pointtracing wheel.


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3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, usingstraight and curve rulers. Mark length grainlines parallel to the center lines.

4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors orpattern shears to cut curved lines. Seamallowances are not necessary on slopers.

5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grainline at side seam.

6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts.

7 Complete the sloper by punching a large holeand hanging it on a pattern hook.

Drawing Darts forThis Bodice

Flat of This Bodice

Fit Construction Detail


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1 Center frontlength (base ofneck to waist)

2 Bust circumference (fullestpart at bust level). Pin tape

parallel to the floor

3 Front neck tobust level

4 1⁄2 bust circumference

CF to CB

A

B

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L1

JJ1 F

FrontBack

+

+

+

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+ + +

+ +

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+

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5/8”

1”

A

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FrontBack

+

+

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+ + +

+ +

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+

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S

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+

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Y

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U

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3/4”

1” 1”

1”1”

1” 1”

3/8”

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FrontBack

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Y

W

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W1

U

V+

+

+

+

+

Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__ _

+

11/4”

1/4”

1/2” 7/8”

approx. 1”

approx. 1”

armplatescrew

A

B

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L1

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FrontBack

+

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+1”

Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human fig-ure and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions.

Measuring the Dress Form

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements


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5 Side seam (waist to 1�

below armplate)

6 Back neckto bust level

7 Center backlength (base ofneck to waist)

8 Back shoulder, neck

to waist

9 Across backshoulder

(armhole toarmhole)

10 Back waistto shoulder (1� from CB

waist to end ofshoulder)

11 Backshoulder (baseof neck to endof shoulder)

12 Front shoulder neck

to waist

13 Acrossfront chest

14 Frontwaist toshoulder

15 Frontshoulder length

16 Bust point to bust point 17 Waist circumference

18 Across back


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FrontBack

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+ +

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O

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Q+

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5/8”

1”

70

1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straightline 2� in from the right side of a 24� � 24� sheetof pattern paper

2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neckto the Bust level

3 C to D = 1⁄2 the Bust Circumference plus 11⁄4 �

ease 4 D to E = 1⁄2 CD minus 1⁄4 �

5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist)6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1� below arm-

plate). Extend the guideline to the top of thepaper

7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back

from G. Extend the line 21⁄4 � toward the front 8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck

9 I to J = Center Back Length

10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point -Square a line across to the side seam guideline

11 K to L = 1⁄2 of Across Shoulder measurementplus 1� for dart & ease

12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G.

Mark L1 where they intersect 13 Square a guideline from J toward F for the back

waist 14 Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist 15 J to J1 = 1�

16 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the Back Waist to Shoulder length to the pointwhere it intersects with line L-L1

17 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure theShoulder length plus 1� for dart/ease to the point where it intersects with line K-L

18 B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder

Neck point. Square a guideline across to the side seam guideline

19 Draw a parallel guideline 5⁄8 � to the right of theside seam line from the top towards line G-H

20 B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder

at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where it intersects the 5⁄8 � guideline

21 P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2� for thedart

DraftingDiagramSteps 1 – 21



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22 C to R = 1⁄2 the Bust Point to Bust Point

23 Square a line from R to the waist guideline.Measure 1� on either side of the line and drawdart legs. Extend all dart lines 1⁄2� past the waistguideline

24 B to T = 1⁄4 of the Waist circumference plus 23⁄4 � (the front is 1⁄2� wider than the back, plus1⁄4 � ease, plus 2� for the dart)

25 T to G = Front Side Seam

26 Q to S = 1⁄2 the Front Shoulder

27 S to S1 = 2� for the Dart. At the center of thedart extend a guideline down to R. Connectdart legs to R and extend all lines 1⁄2� past theshoulder guideline

28 V = Intersection of J1 – M with line G-H. Shift3⁄4 � towards the Center Back and mark V

29 U = Square a line down from V, extending 1⁄2�past the waist guideline

A

B

CD E

G

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JJ1 F

FrontBack

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Y

W

X

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U

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3/4”

1” 1”

1”1”

1” 1”

3/8”

DraftingDiagramSteps 22 – 36

30 Mark 1� on each side of line and connect thedart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 1⁄2� past thewaist guideline

31 J to Y = 1⁄4 of the Waist minus 1⁄2�, plus 21⁄4�for dart and ease

32 Y to G = Back Side Seam

33 N to W = 1⁄2 the Shoulder plus 1⁄8� ease34 W – W1 = 3⁄4� (Dart)35 From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 31⁄2�

to X36 Connect the dart legs to X. Extend dart lines 1⁄2�

beyond the shoulder line


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7272 A

B

CD E

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

JJ1 F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

T

R

S

S1

+

+

Y

W

X

W1

U

V+

+

+

+

+

Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__ _

+

11/4”

1/4”

1/2” 7/8”

approx. 1”

approx. 1”

armplatescrew

72

37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center

Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line upto the Shoulder Neck Point

38 Front Neck: Draw a 11⁄4� guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Use aFrench curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keepthe Center Front neckline level for 1⁄4� beforecurving

39 Back Neck: Draw a 7⁄8� guideline at a 45-degreeangle to the guideline square. Use a Frenchcurve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep theCenter Back neckline level for 1⁄2� before curving

40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = 1⁄2 the Across Chest

measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G

41 Z2 = 2⁄3 of Z1 - H-G

42 Square a line from H-G to Z2

43 Draw a 1� guideline at a 45-degree angle to theguideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a Frenchcurve.

44 Back Armhole: K – Z3 = 1⁄2 the Across Back

measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G

45 Z4 = 1⁄2 Z3 - H-G

46 Square a line from H-G to Z4

47 Draw a 1� guideline at a 45-degree angle to theguideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G

and the upper armhole Z4-M using a Frenchcurve


Drafting the Neckline and Armholes

Drafting DiagramSteps 37 – 47


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B

CD E

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

JJ1 F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

T

R

S

S1

+

+

Y

W

X

W1

U

V+

+

+

+

+

Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__ _

+

+1”

73

48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold thewaist dart legs closest to the centers towardsthe sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pinthe side seam together

49 Square a line 1� from the Center Front andback waist towards the side seam. Use a curveruler to blend the front and back waists

50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and drawin the jog of the darts

51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to thecenters towards the sides. Pin the darts closed.Draw a straight line from Q to P for the frontand from N to M for the back. Run a tracingwheel across the shoulder and draw in the jogof the darts. Note: The back shoulder can beslightly curved when adjusted on the figure

52 Match and pin the bodice shoulders together.The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend thefront and back neckline and armhole at theshoulder

53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin.Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracingwheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowanceand cut out. Pin fit and adjust

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders

Drafting DiagramSteps 48 – 53


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74

e cid

oB t

norF ret

neCe c

id

oB

kca

B re

tn e

C

Shoulder Blade Level

Bust Level

ecid

oB t

no rF ret

neCec

id

oB

k ca

B re

tne

C

1/2”

74

This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.

Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.


Completed Bodice Draft


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The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest.The bust level runs between the front darts.

The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodatethe subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoul-der blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level acrossthe back of the bodice.

Bust Line Contour

BodiceLength

Bodice DartPosition

Bodice Fit

Bust Level

Full Front

Full Back

Scapula orShoulderBlades

ShoulderBlade Level

Back DartPosition

ShoulderBlade Level

Bust Level

Shaping the Bodice


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7676

Notice how the direction of the torso,in any pose, affects the contours orcurves in the sewing lines, as they turnwith the figure.

The function of the darts is to make agarment fit or follow the form, in thiscase, the form of the bust line curve.

The torso can be divided into four sides.This pose shows off two sides and thefront of this square. The turn direction,for this pose, is evident in the sides andaffects where you draw the dart lines.

Drawing Options

Posing a flat has theadvantage ofemphasizing fit: in this example, the look or fit ofthe bodice as ithugs the chest.

Flats give you all ofthe construction andshape detail withoutthe possible distortionof a posed flat.

Specs provide the mostcomprehensive detail-ing for every aspect increating a garment, toproduce it en masse.

FigureAngles

Form and Function

BodyPlanes

ElongatedFashionFigure

Pose

Flat

Spec


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Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasizefit, to highlight form or function. This pose showsoff the bustline contouring.

Flat The flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, con-struction, and proportion. In this case, the bustlinecontouring is not emphasized.

Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plainflat to reflect the “specifics” of its fit to document itsmeasurements for production.

Shape DartsPosed

Flat Finish

Shape Darts

Finish

Non-Posed Portfolio or Studio Flat

Note:ShadingSoftensLook ofFabric and AlsoAccents theFit or Form

Technical Flat Sketch for Production

ShapeBig Overall

MeasurementsSmall Interior

MeasurementsAdding ExteriorMeasurements

Flat Turned into a Spec


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Documents

drawing bodice variations

drawing bodice details

drawing skirt flats

drawing necklines

drawing collars

bodice muslin

skirt muslin

skirt variations