narrative of a visit to the west indies : in 1840 and 1841

MАNIOС.оrg Bibliothèque Schoelcher Conseil général de la Martinique

M A N I O C . o r g B i b l i o t h è q u e S c h o e l c h e r

Conseil général de la Martinique

http://fTiAniOC.org

MАNIOС.оrg B i b l i o t h è q u e S c h o e l c h e r

Conseil général de la Martinique

N A R R A T I V E

OF A

V I S I T T O T H E W E S T I N D I E S ,

I n 1 8 4 0 a n d 1 8 4 1 .

BY

G E O R G E T R U M A N , J O H N J A C K S O N ,

A N D T H O S . B . L O N G S T R E T H .

P H I L A D E L P H I A : M E R R I H E W AND THOMPSON, P R I N T E R S .

No. 7 Carter's Alley.

1844.

P R E F A C E .

T H E following narra t ive has been extracted from notes t aken dur ing a visit to the W e s t Indies in 1 8 4 0 and 1 8 4 1 .

I t m a y be p rope r to r emark that this visit was al together of a rel igious character , and was not under taken with a n y view to elicit information as to the results of Emanc ipa t ion in the Brit ish I s lands .

Agreeab ly to the order of the Society of F r i e nds of wh ich we are m e m b e r s , our concern to visit those Is lands was opened before the meet ings to which w e be long , and hav ing the approbat ion and un i ty thereof, we obtained the necessary certificates to appoint meet ings wi th the people w h e r e our lot should be cast. In pursu ing this prospect , opportunities very frequently occurred among the various classes of society with w h o m we mingled , in which w e were witnesses of the effects p roduced upon both the emancipated laborers and their former masters , b y that act of justice and mercy which restored to eight hundred thousand bondmen their jus t r igh ts .

T o be present a m o n g a people jus t released from bondage , and not to ascertain some facts, or m a k e some enquir ies as to their wel l -being, would exhibit much indifference to their situation.

4 PREFACE.

Most of the facts he re in stated in reference thereto , we re voluntari ly related to us b y the P l an t e r s and others , w h o appea red desirous to furnish correct accounts respect ing the operat ion of the sys tem of free labor, and to show the advantages and benefits it conferred upon all classes of society. It was evident to us that E m a n c i pat ion was a bless ing to both master and s lave . T h e mas ter has exper ienced a decrease of the we igh t of responsibi l i ty ,—necessar i ly res t ing u p o n h im,—the st imulant of wages rel ieves him from the necess i ty of forcing the laborer , as formerly, to to his unrequi ted toil. T h e laborer discovers that now his t empora l comforts are increased, and thus the strongest encouragement is given to his indust ry , while in the moral and social relations of life, a most h a p p y change in m a n y part iculars has resul ted from it.

If the s ta tements do not appear to exhibit so fully as m a y be desired the statistical details, it should be r emembered that the object of the visit in some measu re prec luded further investigation.

It m a y be considered important b y some to have it c lear ly proved that the master was in no case a loser by this c h a n g e . T h e s tandard by which w e are to j u d g e of the propr ie ty or just ice of W e s t Ind ia emancipat ion , is not the deg ree of pecun ia ry advantage which m a y be real ized b y the P l a n t e r or p roper ty holder , bu t the benefits resul t ing to

PREFACE. 5

the grea te r n u m b e r , the aggrega te amount of advantage real ized b y all .

T h e P lan te r s and land-holders are bu t few in comparison to the eight hundred thousand, who , in the transit ion from slavery to freedom, have had secured to t hem the pr ivi lege of devoting their menta l and physical energies in the pursui t of that happiness to which all are equal ly enti t led.

O n e thing is evident , the abolition of S lavery in the Br i t i sh W e s t Indies , at one t ime so fearfully d readed b y m a n y , as the beg inn ing of insubordination and forerunner of ruin, has been accomplished wi thout a single instance of tumul t or dist u rbance .

T h i s great exper imen t has proved the safety of the m e a s u r e . It has shown that the peace of society is more easily preserved , and has g rea te r secur i ty , whe re the rights of all are respec ted , than under the sys tem of S lavery wh ich preceded it . I t has opened sources of intellectual improvement to thousands , wh ich had been closed to t h e m in their former condition, and p e r h a p s the most strik i n g feature of its resul ts , is the ample solution it has furnished to the quest ion, " are l iberated slaves competent to t ake care of and provide for themselves ?”

T h i s impor tant quest ion, involving the welfare of millions of the h u m a n race , has been fairly answered in the affirmative by the fact, that while the P lan-

1*

6 PREFACE.

ters and slave owners of the W e s t Indies received from the Governmen t twen ty millions of pounds s ter l ing as a compensat ion for their s laves , the slaves themselves , ins tead of demand ing an equivalent for their past services , ei ther from the government or their mas ters , we re wil l ing to take s imply the boon of freedom, to commence the world with little or nothing beforehand, and to depend solely upon their own industry for the support of themselves and their families.

I n our interviews wi th the colored people of the W e s t Indies , and the opportuni t ies we had of examin ing m a n y of their schools, and wi tness ing the p rogress m a d e b y the chi ldren in their s tudies, w e became satisfied that , with the s ame advan tages , t hey show a capaci ty equal in every respect to that of the whites for menta l improvement , and for all the moral excellencies which give digni ty and t rue respectabi l i ty to the h u m a n charac ter .

Most persons who have ventured to decide what the menta l and phys ica l capabili t ies of the African race a re , have not t aken into considerat ion the circumstances b y which they have been su r rounded , both in their own count ry and abroad, nor have they placed a jus t est imate upon those individual cases w h e r e they have exhibi ted ta lents , wh ich would be considered eminent in any civilized socie ty .

If we refer to the past , we m a y trace th roughou t

PREFACE. 7

the history of m a n y nat ions , a series of events re quir ing the lapse of ages fully to unfold them, be-fore these nations reached their present intellectual position.

E v e n after the introduction of Chris t iani ty a m o n g the nations of E u r o p e , a thousand years rolled on, and the great mass of the people remained involved in the g loom of intel lectual darkness , and gross mora l depravi ty ; and a l though this menta l n ight was frequently i l luminated b y the l ight wh ich b roke forth, t h rough individual minds , that s eemed to have outs t r ipped the age in which they lived, ye t the civilization of the whole m a s s of the people was tardy in its progress ; one th ing was w a n t i n g — m e n did not fully realize the pr inciples of freedom.

It is to be hoped that the emancipat ion of the slaves in the W e s t Indies and the efforts now be ing made to improve their condition, by a gene ra l education of their offspring, is one l ink in the grea t chain of events that will e levate the African race to a h igher s tanding a m o n g the nations of the ear th .

In our interviews wi th the poor and illiterate people of these Is lands , w e were frequently made sensible that m a n y of them have a clear percept ion of the duties and obligations of Chris t iani ty , and a l though complaints were sometimes made b y their rel igious teachers , that they could not under s t and the myster ies of popular theo logy—yet they could readi ly comprehend the rel igion that was taught

8 PREFACE.

in J u d e a , and such as was we lcomed b y the unlea rned fishermen of Gal i lee .

O u r labor among them was not to enforce outward forms or abstract opinions, as the essentials of religion, but to encourage t hem to cultivate and cher ish those vi r tuous feelings which the Crea to r himself ha th implanted in the soul, and which can alone elevate and improve the h u m a n mind . I n this humble endeavour , w e have felt the r eward of peace , and have had the satisfaction to believe that our mission to this long neglec ted people was re ceived and apprecia ted b y many , in whose hear ts had often been hea rd the l a n g u a g e , " show us the w a y to Z i o n . "

N A R R A T I V E .

T H E V O Y A G E .

W e e m b a r k e d a t N e w Y o r k , o n b o a r d t h e sh ip S o u t h e r n e r , C a p t a i n T i b b i t t s , b o u n d to S a n t a C r u z , St. T h o m a s a n d J a m a i c a , o n t h e m o r n i n g of E l e v e n t h m o n t h 19 th , 1840 .

W e h a d a b o u t t w e n t y - f i v e p a s s e n g e r s in c o m p a n y , m o s t of w h o m w e r e i n v a l i d s , s e e k i n g a c l ima te w h e r e t h e y m i g h t e s c a p e t h e sever i t i e s of a N o r t h A m e r i c a n w i n t e r . T h e p a r t i n g of t h e s e f rom the i r f r iends a n d r e l a t ives p r o d u c e d s o m e s a d d e n i n g sensa t ions .

A s n o w h a v i n g fal len t he d a y p r e v i o u s to o u r d e p a r t u r e , e v e r y t h i n g p r e s e n t e d a w i n t r y a p p e a r a n c e . H a v i n g a g o o d b r e e z e f rom N . W . w e soon p a s s e d t h e N a r r o w s , a n d before d a r k o u r n o b l e sh ip w a s r i d ing u p o n t h e r o u g h w a v e s of t h e A t l a n t i c . D u r i n g t h e first t w o d a y s of t h e v o y a g e w e e x p e r i e n c e d a h e a v y sea , i n c o n s e q u e n c e of w h i c h , m o s t of t h e p a s s e n g e r s suffered e x c e e d i n g l y f rom sea - s i ckness .

O n F i r s t - d a y t h e 2 2 d , w e h a d p a s s e d t h e Gu l f s t r e a m , t he o c e a n b e c a m e c a l m , a n d t h e

. w e a t h e r w a s m i l d a n d p l e a s a n t a s a s u m m e r m o r n i n g . A t ou r r e q u e s t a m e e t i n g for D i v i n e w o r s h i p w a s h e l d , w h i c h w a s a t t e n d e d b y a l l

10 N A R R A T I V E OF

t h e p a s s e n g e r s w h o h a d sufficiently r e c o v e r e d f rom t h e sea - s ickness . *

I s o l a t e d a s w e w e r e u p o n t h e o c e a n , t he occas ion s e e m e d to d e m a n d t h a t w e s h o u l d forget t h o s e sec t iona l p r e jud i ce s a n d feel ings w h i c h fo rm t h e b a r r i e r s b e t w e e n different professors of r e l ig ion , a n d h a v e a t e n d e n c y to s e p a r a t e f rom t h e love of G o d , a n d e n d e a v o r to r ea l i ze t h e t r u t h of t h e S c r i p t u r e dec l a r a t i on , " One is y o u r m a s t e r , e v e n Chr is t , a n d al l y e a r e b r e t h r e n . " W e w e r e f avored to en joy a c o m for table m e e t i n g t oge the r , a n d a w o r d of e n c o u r a g e m e n t w a s g i v e n to s o m e , w h o s e dec l in ing h e a l t h w a r n e d t h e m t h a t t he p e r i o d of the i r d i s so lu t ion w a s d r a w i n g n igh .

O n t h e 2 3 d , w e e n c o u n t e r e d a h e a v y ga le . T h e w a v e s rose h i g h , occas iona l ly s w e e p i n g o v e r the deck of t he vesse l , t h u s r e n d e r i n g a n y pos i t ion unsafe w i t h o u t a r o p e , or s o m e t h i n g to w h i c h w e could c l ing for secur i ty .

T h e s t o r m a n d t e m p e s t h a v e the i r a p p o i n t e d office, a n d the i r b o u n d s in t he e c o n o m y of t h e u n i v e r s e ; w i t h o u t t h e a g i t a t i o n t h e y p r o d u c e , t h e w a t e r s of t he o c e a n w o u l d s o o n b e c o m e s t a g n a n t , a n d r e n d e r e d unfi t for t he h a b i t a t i o n of m y r i a d s of l iv ing c r e a t u r e s w h i c h en joy e x i s tence t h e r e i n . A sufficient q u a n t i t y of v a p o r w o u l d n o t b e c a r r i e d f rom the s e a to ref resh a n d fert i l ize t h e l and , w h i c h , in c o n s e q u e n c e , w o u l d soon b e c o m e b a r r e n a n d deso la t e , unfi t for t h e a b o d e of m a n , a n d the s u b o r d i n a t e c r e a t u r e s ove r w h i c h h e h a s d o m i n i o n .

W h i l e , t he re fo re , w e v i e w e d the a m a z i n g spec tac le before u s , w i t h m i n g l e d feel ings of

A V I S I T TO T H E W E S T I N D I E S . 1 1

p l e a s u r e a n d of a w e , y e t w e w e r e sens ib le t h a t s u c h s u b l i m e o p e r a t i o n s of t h e e l e m e n t s t e n d e i the r d i r ec t ly or r e m o t e l y to b e a u t i f y t h e e a r t h w i t h v e g e t a t i o n , a n d to insp i re t h e m i n d w i t h a conv ic t ion t h a t H e w h o cont ro l s t he w i n d s a n d t h e w a v e s , is " w o n d e r f u l in counse l a n d e x c e l l en t in w o r k i n g . " H a v i n g a d a p t e d e x t e r n a l n a t u r e to t h e cons t i tu t ion of t he v a r i o u s c r e a t u r e s h e h a s m a d e for e n j o y m e n t , t h e e l e m e n t s b e c o m e s u b s e r v i e n t to t he mos t exce l l en t e n d s ; s u c h r e flections h a v e a t e n d e n c y to r e m o v e a p p r e h e n s ions of d a n g e r , a n d m a k e t h e scene o n e of a d m i r a t i o n a n d w o n d e r .

O n F o u r t h - d a y , t he twenty- f i f th , t h e s t o r m h a d en t i r e ly a b a t e d . I t w a s p r o p o s e d b y o n e of t h e p a s s e n g e r s to ho ld a m e e t i n g for D i v i n e w o r s h i p , a c c o r d i n g to o u r c u s t o m , i n t h e m i d d l e of t h e w e e k . T h i s b e i n g r e s p o n d e d to , p r e p a r a t i o n s w e r e m a d e to ho ld it o n t h e d e c k of t h e vesse l . N e a r l y al l of t h e s h i p ' s c r e w a n d p a s s e n g e r s s e a t e d t h e m s e l v e s , a n d d u r i n g t h e o p p o r t u n i t y w e d e e m e d it r i g h t to p r e s e n t to v i e w s o m e of t h e t e s t imon ie s a n d p r inc ip les of t r u t h a s p r o fessed b y o u r r e l ig ious soc ie ty .

O n F i r s t - d a y , t h e t w e n t y - n i n t h , it w a s a g a i n p r o p o s e d to h o l d a m e e t i n g . T h e c a p t a i n a n d p a s s e n g e r s h a v i n g m a n i f e s t e d a des i re for i t , w e col lec ted t o g e t h e r o n t h e deck of t h e vesse l , w h e r e , a m i d s t t h e r o a r i n g of t he o c e a n , a n d t h e s o u n d of t h e w i n d a m o n g t h e r i g g i n g of t h e s h i p , w e e n d e a v o r e d to d r a w n e a r to H i m w h o s e vo ice m a y b e h e a r d e v e n a m i d s t t h e no i se of m a n y w a t e r s , a n d w e r e p e r m i t t e d to r ea l i ze t h e t r u t h of t h e dec l a r a t i on , " W h e r e t w o or t h r e e


a r e m e t t o g e t h e r i n m y n a m e , t h e r e a m I in t h e m i d s t of t h e m . "

E a r l y on t h e m o r n i n g of T w e l f t h m o n t h 1st, t h e c a p t a i n to ld u s , if h i s r e c k o n i n g w a s r i g h t , w e s h o u l d see l a n d b y n i n e o 'c lock . A m a n w a s s en t to t he m a s t - h e a d , a n d a b o u t a q u a r t e r p a s t n ine w e h e a r d t he c ry " l a n d to l e e w a r d . " B y ten o ' c lock w e h a d n e a r e d sufficiently to m a k e it v is ib le f rom t h e d e c k of t h e sh ip . I t p r o v e d to b e t h e hi l ls of V i r g i n G o r d a . D u r i n g t h e d a y w e p a s s e d i n s igh t of T o r t o l a , St . J o h n s , a n d St. T h o m a s , a n d b y five o ' c lock , P . M . , w e r e i n s igh t of S a n t a C r u z . O w i n g to a h e a v y r a i n , a n d t h e d a r k n e s s of t h e e v e n i n g , t h e c a p t a i n d e e m e d it p r u d e n t to " l a y t o " for t h e n i g h t , t h a t w e m i g h t h a v e d a y l i g h t to a p p r o a c h t h e i s land .

T h e n e x t m o r n i n g a gen t l e b r e e z e w a f t e d u s a l o n g t h e n o r t h s ide of t h e I s l a n d , w h e r e w e h a d a full v i e w of i ts m o u n t a i n s , s o m e of w h i c h a r e c u l t i v a t e d to the i r s u m m i t s . T h e c a n e fields, bo i l i ng h o u s e s , m a n s i o n s of t h e p l a n t e r s , a n d t h e t e n e m e n t s of t h e s l aves c lus te red t o g e t h e r , p r e s e n t i n g t h e a p p e a r a n c e of sma l l v i l l ages , t h e lofty c o c o a - n u t , t he b a n a n a , a n d o t h e r beau t i fu l t r ee s g r o w i n g a r o u n d t h e d w e l l i n g s , all a d d e d to t he n o v e l t y a n d in te res t of t h e s cene . W e a r r i v e d a t W e s t E n d by s ix o ' c lock , P . M . , b e i n g t h i r t e e n d a y s s ix h o u r s s ince w e w e i g h e d a n c h o r i n t h e h a r b o r of N e w Y o r k .

S A N T A C R U Z .

Twelfth month 3d.—This m o r n i n g w e c a m e on s h o r e , a n d found exce l l en t a c c o m m o d a t i o n s a t t he b o a r d i n g h o u s e of R e b e c c a R o g e r s . T h e

A V I S I T TO T H E W E S T I N D I E S . 13

t o w n of W e s t E n d , o r F r e d e r i c k s t a d t , is p l e a s a n t l y s i t u a t e d o n t h e s ea s h o r e , a n d a l m o s t s u r r o u n d e d b y h i g h hi l ls . M o s t p e r s o n s w h o visit, t h i s i s l and on a c c o u n t of h e a l t h t a k e b o a r d i n g h e r e , t h e r e b e i n g s e v e r a l h o u s e s wel l f u r n i s h e d for t h e r e c e p t i o n of s t r a n g e r s . Af te r p a r t a k i n g of s o m e of t h e fine f rui ts o u r k i n d hos t e s s h a d p r o c u r e d for u s , w e w a l k e d t h r o u g h t h e t o w n a n d i ts e n v i r o n s , o u r a d m i r a t i o n b e i n g e x c i t e d b y m a n y ob jec t s t h a t w e r e c o n t i n u a l l y p r e s e n t e d to o u r v i e w . V i s i t i n g t h e t rop i c s a t th i s s e a s o n , is l ike g o i n g to a n e w w o r l d . W h e n w e left N e w Y o r k , t h e w e a t h e r w a s v e r y co ld , t h e g r o u n d w a s c o v e r e d w i t h s n o w , a n d v e g e t a t i o n w a s t a k i n g its a n n u a l r e p o s e . H e r e , w e a r e e n j o y i n g a c l i m a t e a s w a r m a s t h e s u m m e r s of P e n n s y l v a n i a , a n d s u r r o u n d e d b y t h e l u x u r i a n t p r o d u c t s of t h e e a r t h , g r o w i n g in t h e r i ches t p ro fus ion . T h e lofty c o c o a - n u t , a n d m o u n t a i n c a b b a g e , w h o s e s t a t e l y t r u n k s a p p e a r l ike t h e p i l l a r s of a t e m p l e , t h e c u r i o u s si lk co t t on t r e e , t h e o r a n g e w i t h its b l o s s o m s , i ts g r e e n a n d r i p e f rui t , n u m e r o u s f l ower s of g r e a t b e a u t y , a n d m o s t l y different f r o m t h o s e w e l l k n o w n to u s , c ou ld n o t fail t o b e i n t e r e s t i n g to a s t r a n g e r .

A vis i t to t h e fish m a r k e t g a v e u s a n o p p o r t u n i t y of s e e i n g a l a r g e n u m b e r of t r op i ca l fish. M a n y of t h e s e w e r e of d e e p r e d , b lue a n d y e l l o w , a n d t h e w h o l e p r e s e n t e d a g r e a t v a r i e t y of s i z e , s h a p e , a n d co lors . W e e n d e a v o r e d to o b t a i n f rom t h e se l le rs t h e n a m e s a n d c h a r a c t e r of s o m e of t h e m , b u t t h e i r l a n g u a g e b e i n g a m i x t u r e of b r o k e n E n g l i s h a n d D a n i s h , t h e a n s w e r s to o u r q u e s t i o n s w e r e m o s t l y u n i n t e l l i g i b l e .

2


D u r i n g a r i d e a c r o s s t h e i s l and , w e s a w l a r g e g a n g s of s l a v e s a t w o r k p r e p a r i n g t h e soil for c a n e s ; t h e y w e r e a r r a n g e d n e a r to e a c h o t h e r i n l o n g r o w s , b o t h m a l e a n d f e m a l e , a n d u s e d n o o t h e r i m p l e m e n t t h a n t h e h o e ; a n o v e r s e e r o r d r i v e r a c c o m p a n i e d e v e r y g a n g , to s u p e r i n t e n d t h e w o r k , a n d m o r e e spec i a l l y to see t h a t e a c h o n e p e r f o r m e d h i s full a m o u n t of l a b o r .

I t is h i g h l y g r a t i f y i n g to n o t i c e t h a t u n d e r t h e d e s p o t i c D a n i s h g o v e r n m e n t t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e s l a v e s is g r e a t l y i n a d v a n c e of t h e s l a v e p o p u l a t i o n of o t h e r c o u n t r i e s . O n th i s i s l a n d t h e y h a v e o p p o r t u n i t i e s , b y t h e c u l t i v a t i o n of t h e g r o u n d s a l l o w e d t h e m , a n d t h e r a i s i n g of s w i n e a n d p o u l t r y , to a c q u i r e a n d po s s e s s s u m s of m o n e y , a n d w h e n t h e y c o n s i d e r t h e m s e l v e s p r e p a r e d a n d a r e d e s i r o u s to o b t a i n t h e i r l i b e r t y , t h e y c a n d e m a n d a n a p p r a i s e m e n t b y d i s in t e r e s t ed p e r s o n s of t h e v a l u e of t h e i r s e r v i c e s , to w h i c h t h e m a s t e r is o b l i g e d to s u b m i t , a n d sell t h e m a c c o r d i n g l y .

T h e y a r e f u r t h e r p r o t e c t e d from t h e u n b r i d l e d i m p u l s e s of p a s s i o n of t h e o w n e r o r h i s o v e r see r , t h e y n o t b e i n g p e r m i t t e d to u s e v e r y h a r s h m e a s u r e s to enforce o b e d i e n c e .

A n a t t e m p t is n o w b e i n g m a d e to p r o m o t e t h e f u r t h e r w e l f a r e of t h e s l a v e p o p u l a t i o n , b y a l l o w i n g t h e m t h e p r i v i l e g e of t h e S e v e n t h - d a y o f t h e w e e k , to l a b o r for t h e m s e l v e s o n t he i r p r o v i s ion g r o u n d s , a n d t h e a t t e n d a n c e of m a r k e t s . T h i s is n o w d o n e o n t h e F i r s t - d a y . T h i s p r o p o s i t ion w h i c h , it a p p e a r s , c a m e t h r o u g h t h e K i n g of D e n m a r k , is s t r e n u o u s l y o p p o s e d b y s o m e , b u t w h o , it s e e m s , a r e in t h e m i n o r i t y . T h e y


h a v e d i s p a t c h e d a d v o c a t e s to E u r o p e in o r d e r , if pos s ib l e , to in f luence t h e g o v e r n m e n t a g a i n s t t h e m e a s u r e , b u t it is be l i eved t h e c h a n g e w i l l u l t i m a t e l y t a k e p l a c e .

T h e g o v e r n m e n t is a l so p r e p a r i n g to i n t r o d u c e a s y s t e m of school e d u c a t i o n for t h e c h i l d r e n of b o t h t h e free a n d t h e s l a v e p o p u l a t i o n . S t o n e h o u s e s of a m p l e d i m e n s i o n s a n d n e a t c o n s t r u c t i o n a r e b e i n g e r e c t e d t h r o u g h o u t t h e I s l a n d , a n d p r o p e r l y f u r n i s h e d w i t h a p p a r a t u s , to c a r r y o u t t h i s b e n e v o l e n t d e s i g n . T h e E n g l i s h l a n g u a g e wi l l b e t a u g h t . I t is e x p e c t e d t h e s e schoo l s wi l l go in to o p e r a t i o n in a s h o r t t i m e , a n d t h a t c h i l d r e n f rom al l t h e e s t a t e s w i l l b e s en t to t h e m .

W i t h t h e s e e v i d e n c e s to m e l i o r a t e t he i r c o n d i t i on , w e w e r e s u r p r i s e d to find so m u c h i n a t t e n t i o n to d r e s s p e r m i t t e d b y t h e P l a n t e r s a m o n g t h e i r s l a v e s . R i d i n g f rom B a s s i n w e m e t a b o y , a p p a r e n t l y f r o m t w e l v e to f o u r t e e n y e a r s of a g e , l e a d i n g a h o r s e in t h e p u b l i c r o a d , e n t i r e l y d e s t i t u t e of c l o t h i n g ; a n d a t d i f ferent t i m e s w e h a v e n o t i c e d y o u n g m e n in t he s t r ee t s of W e s t E n d , so s c a n t i l y c o v e r e d t h a t t h e i r c l o t h i n g d id n o t afford e v e n d e c e n t p r o t e c t ion . W h e t h e r t h i s is o w i n g to ind i f fe rence , b l u n t n e s s of t h e s e n s e of c o m m o n m o d e s t y o n t h e p a r t of t h e s l a v e , o r f r o m t h e s o r d i d n e s s of t h e i r m a s t e r s in f u r n i s h i n g s u p p l i e s of su i t a b l e c l o t h i n g , w e d id no t a s c e r t a i n . E a c h c a u s e t e n d s , p r o b a b l y , to p r o d u c e t h e effects w i t n e s s e d . W h e n t h e sub j ec t w a s m e n t i o n e d , t h e r e p l y w a s — O h , t h e y a r e c o u n t r y p e o p l e ; a n d t h e s l a v e of c o u r s e r e c e i v e d al l t h e b l a m e . W e

1 6 N A R R A T I V E OF

p e r c e i v e d t h e co lo r ed p e o p l e w e r e g e n e r a l l y fond of d r e s s ; it is n o t p r o b a b l e , w i t h th i s fee l ing p r e v a i l i n g , t h a t s u c h e x h i b i t i o n s w o u l d e v e r o c c u r , if t h e y h a d t h e m e a n s to p r e v e n t it .

T h e e d u c a t i o n of t h e c h i l d r e n w i l l b e of g r e a t a d v a n t a g e ; a n d w e h o p e it w i l l e v e n t u a t e i n t h e f u r t h e r m e l i o r a t i o n of t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e t h e s l a v e , a n d b e t h e m e a n s of t h e final b r e a k i n g of t h e o d i o u s b o n d t h a t b i n d s h i m to h i s f e l low m a n a s h i s p r o p e r t y . M a n y p r o p r i e t o r s a p p e a r r e a d y to e m a n c i p a t e t he i r s l a v e s . T h e y b e l i e v e a d v a n t a g e s w i l l r e s u l t to al l p a r t i e s b y so d o i n g ; b u t t h e y a s k r e m u n e r a t i o n , r e f e r r i n g t o t h e e x a m p l e of G r e a t B r i t a i n t o w a r d s h e r c o l o n i e s . T h e D a n i s h g o v e r n m e n t is s a i d to b e t o o p o o r to p r o m o t e th i s v i e w , a n d t h e r e is l i t t le p r o b a b i l i t y s u c h a p l a n wil l b e c a r r i e d in to effect. I t is l o o k i n g , h o w e v e r , t o w a r d s e m a n c i p a t i o n , a n d t h e s choo l s y s t e m n o w u n d e r a r r a n g e m e n t i s a p r e l i m i n a r y s t e p t o w a r d s it.

T h e different r e l i g i o u s sec ts t o l e r a t e d , v i z . t h e M o r a v i a n s , L u t h e r a n s , E p i s c o p a l i a n s , a n d C a t h o l i c s , w i l l h a v e t h e s u p e r v i s o r y c a r e of t h e s e s c h o o l s , a n d i n o r d e r to m a i n t a i n h a r m o n i o u s a c t i o n , s e c t a r i a n s choo l b o o k s wi l l n o t b e a l l o w e d .

[ N O T E . — T h e f o l l o w i n g a c c o u n t f r o m St . C r o i x h a s l a t e l y b e e n p u b l i s h e d i n s o m e of t h e p u b l i c j o u r n a l s of this c o u n t r y : —

" S T . C R O I X . — L e t t e r s have b e e n rece ived in N e w Y o r k , wh ich give a flattering account of the imp r o v e m e n t in the condition of the slaves of this I s land . T h e D a n i s h G o v e r n m e n t has ex tended the requis i t ion u p o n p lan te rs of send ing the i r s laves


to school, to the a g e of fifteen y e a r s . A b o u t th ree y e a r s ago , the G o v e r n m e n t o rdered school houses to be erected , and all the s lave ch i ldren , from the ages" of four to n ine , to be sent to school . T h e p resen t extension requ i res t h e m to be sent on S a t u r d a y and S u n d a y unt i l the a g e of twe lve , a n d on S u n d a y to fifteen. T h e r e are school houses on the Is land sufficient to a ccommo da t e the who le popula t ion , and the schools a re we l l ke p t , chiefly b y the Morav ian Miss ionar ies . T h e ch i ld ren exhibit g rea t ap tness to learn , and by the m e a n s n o w in opera t ion , the r is ing gene ra t ion will b e wel l e d u c a t e d . " ]

T h e s l a v e s a p p e a r to b e t h e o n l y s u p p l i e r s of v e g e t a b l e p r o v i s i o n s to t h e i n h a b i t a n t s of t h e t o w n . T h e p r o d u c t s of t h e i r g a r d e n s a r e e x p o s e d for sa le in a l a r g e o p e n s q u a r e o n t h e F i r s t d a y of t h e w e e k . T h i s d a y , i n s t e a d of b e i n g a d a y of res t , a s it s h o u l d b e , to t h e s e p o o r p e o p l e , is o n e of l a b o r a n d toi l . T h e a r t i c l es e x p o s e d for s a l e a r e c a r r i e d i n t r a y s u p o n t he i r h e a d s for s e v e r a l m i l e s , a n d a s t h e y a r e a r r i v i n g a t a l l h o u r s , t h e m a r k e t is k e p t u p t h r o u g h o u t t h e d a y .

I t w a s o u r w i s h t o h o l d s o m e r e l i g i o u s m e e t i n g s w i t h t h e p e o p l e of th i s I s l a n d ; a n d for t h i s p u r p o s e w e ca l l ed on s e v e r a l i n f luen t i a l m e n , w h o s e e m e d d e s i r o u s to p r o m o t e t h e objec t of o u r v i s i t ; b u t o n m a k i n g a p p l i c a t i o n to t h e G o v e r n o r for h i s p e r m i s s i o n , h e r e fused to g r a n t i t , in a f o r m a l n o t e a d d r e s s e d to t h e P o l i c e J u d g e , of w h i c h t h e f o l l o w i n g is a c o p y : —

". To Polity Master Anderson. " In c o n s e q u e n c e of a v e r b a l r e p r e s e n t a t i o n

2 *


f r o m M e s s r s . J o h n J a c k s o n a n d G e o r g e T r u m a n , for p e r m i s s i o n d u r i n g t he i r a b o d e h e r e , t o h o l d r e l i g ious m e e t i n g s o n t h e I s l a n d , y o u a r e h e r e b y r e q u e s t e d to not i fy to t h o s e p e r s o n s , t h a t t h e r e q u e s t e d p e r m i s s i o n c a n n o t b e g r a n t e d . T h e a n n e x e d four v o u c h e r s ( o u r cer t i f ica tes , ) y o u w i l l a l so d e l i v e r o v e r t o t h e m .

" S i g n e d b y t h e G o v e r n o r , P . V O N S C H O L T O N .

St. Croix, 5th D e c , 1 8 4 0 . "

T h e fear of o u r m a k i n g r e m a r k s u p o n t h e s u b j e c t of S l a v e r y , w a s s u p p o s e d to h a v e o p e r a ted u p o n h i s m i n d , to p r o d u c e th i s o r d e r , so c o n t r a r y to t h e p r i n c i p l e s of e n l i g h t e n e d Christianity.

T h e P o l i c e J u d g e a l so s h o w e d u s a n o t i c e w h i c h w a s i s sued a b o u t a y e a r p r e v i o u s , a n d w h i c h w a s p l a c e d i n t h e dif ferent b o a r d i n g h o u s e s of W e s t - E n d . T h e fo l l owing is a c o p y :

" W h e r e a s , it a p p e a r s t h a t n o t w i t h s t a n d i n g t h e i n f o r m a t i o n a n d a d v i c e g i v e n to s t r a n g e r s a n d o t h e r s a t t h e P o l i c e office, s o m e p e r s o n s h a v e u n d e r t a k e n to k e e p m e e t i n g s for t h e p u r p o s e of d e l i v e r i n g r e l i g ious s p e e c h e s , d i s c o u r s e s , o r p r a y e r s : N o t i c e is h e r e b y g i v e n , t h a t , a g r e e a b l e to t h e e x i s t i n g l a w s a n d r e g u l a t i o n s of o u r c o u n t r y , n o n e b u t t h e m i n i s t e r s d u l y a p p o i n t e d b y t h e r o y a l a u t h o r i t y for t h i s c o l o n y , or such p e r s o n s ' a s h a v e o b t a i n e d spec i a l p e r m i s s i o n f rom o u r g o v e r n m e n t , a r e en t i t l ed or p e r m i t t e d to hold o r k e e p s u c h m e e t i n g s , a n d d e l i v e r y o f s p e e c h e s , d i s c o u r s e s , p r a y e r s , or a n y t h i n g of t h e l ike , in w h a t s h a p e s o e v e r , i n th i s


t o w n or j u r i s d i c t i o n ; a n d t h a t i n c a se of n o n c o m p l i a n c e w i t h th i s c a u t i o n , t h e offender o r of fenders , a s a lso t h e o w n e r or t e n a n t of t h e h o u s e w h e r e s u c h i l legal m e e t i n g s m a y b e f o u n d , m u s t e x p e c t to b e p r o s e c u t e d a n d d e a l t w i t h a c c o r d i n g to l a w .

Police Office, Frederickstadt, St. Croix, 9th December, 1 8 3 9 . "

F i n d i n g n o o p p o r t u n i t y to h o l d m e e t i n g s w i t h t h e p e o p l e , w e felt w i l l i n g to l e a v e , a f ter c i r c u l a t i n g s o m e b o o k s , a n d w r i t i n g a n a d d r e s s t o t h e i n h a b i t a n t s , in w h i c h w e e x p l a i n e d t h e ob jec t of o u r v is i t , a n d e x p r e s s e d o u r c o n v i c t i o n t h a t t h e e x e r c i s e of h u m a n a u t h o r i t y o v e r t h e c o n sc iences of m e n , is u t t e r l y a t v a r i a n c e w i t h t h e b e n i g n in f luence of t h e g o s p e l , a n d t h e sp i r i t of t h e a g e in w h i c h w e l i ve . T h i s w a s s u b s e q u e n t l y p r i n t e d a n d c i r c u l a t e d in t h e D a n i s h co lon ie s .

S T . T H O M A S .

Twelfth mo. 9th.—We t o o k p a s s a g e y e s t e r d a y f rom W e s t - E n d , a t 10 o ' c lock , w i t h t h e e x p e c t a t i o n of r e a c h i n g th i s I s l a n d in s e v e n or e i g h t h o u r s . B u t o w i n g to c o n t r a r y w i n d s , o u r little-s c h o o n e r d i d no t l a n d u s till a b o u t 9 o ' c lock th i s m o r n i n g , c o n s e q u e n t l y , w e h a d to s p e n d the n i g h t on b o a r d , w i t h v e r y p o o r a c c o m m o d a t i o n s , a n d s c a n t y fa re . W e w e r e k i n d l y r e c e i v e d b y o u r f r iend , E d w a r d S i m m o n s , w h o i n t r o d u c e d u s to s e v e r a l of t h e m e r c h a n t s , a n d a lso to t h e G o v e r n o r , O x h o l m , w i t h w h o m w e d e s i r e d to h a v e a n i n t e r v i e w , h o p i n g it m i g h t o p e n t h e w a y for h o l d i n g s o m e r e l i g i o u s m e e t i n g s o n t h e I s l a n d .


T h e G o v e r n o r a p p e a r e d d i s p o s e d to g r a n t u s t h i s l i b e r t y , b u t u p o n b e i n g i n f o r m e d t h a t t h e G o v e r n o r G e n e r a l of t h e D a n i s h Co lon i e s , a t S a n t a C r u z , h a d p r o h i b i t e d t h e h o l d i n g of s u c h m e e t i n g s t h e r e , h e d i d n o t t h i n k h e h a d suffic i en t a u t h o r i t y to g r a n t o u r r e q u e s t w i t h o u t first o b t a i n i n g V o n S c h o l t o n ' s c o n s e n t . T h i s w e t h o u g h t c o u l d no t b e p r o c u r e d , a n d w e d e c l i n e d m a k i n g t h e a t t e m p t .

B u t a s m a l l p o r t i o n of th i s I s l a n d is u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n . M o s t of t h e i n h a b i t a n t s a r e c o n g r e g a t e d in t h e p r i n c i p a l s e a - p o r t , t h e t o w n of St . T h o m a s . T h i s t o w n is h a n d s o m e l y s i t u a t e d o n t h r e e hi l l s , o n t h e s u m m i t s of w h i c h m o s t of t h e f inest d w e l l i n g s a r e b u i l t , a n d m a n y of t h e m so s i t u a t e d a s to c o m m a n d a v i e w of t h e w h o l e t o w n a n d h a r b o r . B e i n g a free p o r t , it is a p l a c e of g r e a t b u s i n e s s . C o m m e r c e w i t h m a n y n a t i o n s is c a r r i e d o n t h e r e , a n d the i r l a n g u a g e is h e a r d in its s t r ee t s , w h i l s t in i ts e x c e l l e n t h a r b o r m a n y vesse ls f rom v a r i o u s p a r t s of t h e w o r l d w e r e t h e n r i d i n g .

A m i d s t t h e h u r r y a n d b u s t l e w h i c h t h e e x t e n s ive b u s i n e s s of t h i s p l a c e p r o d u c e s , it is to b e f e a r e d t h a t too l i t t le t i m e is d e v o t e d to t h a t r a t iona l a n d s e r i o u s ref lec t ion , w h i c h r e d e e m s f rom t h e sp i r i t of t h e w o r l d , a n d l e a d s m a n to c o m m u n e w i t h h i s M a k e r . F r o m o b s e r v a t i o n s w e w e r e a b l e to m a k e , w e s h o u l d j u d g e t h e s t a n d a r d of m o r a l i t y w a s v e r y l o w a m o n g t h e c o l o r e d p e o p l e , a n d w e w e r e s o r r y to f ind, u p o n e n q u i r y , t h a t b u t a s m a l l a m o u n t of c a r e is b e s t o w e d b y t h e r e l i g i o u s sec ts t o l e r a t e d , t o w a r d s e l e v a t i n g t h e i r c o n d i t i o n , a n d it is p r o b a b l e b u t l i t t le p a i n s


w i l l b e t a k e n i n th i s r e s p e c t , w h i l e t h e y r e m a i n i n t h e c o n d i t i o n of s l a v e s .

T h e M o r a v i a n s h a v e a n e s t a b l i s h m e n t n e a r t h i s t o w n , a n d w e u n d e r s t a n d t h a t a d e g r e e of k i n d n e s s w a s e x e r c i s e d b y t h e s e b r e t h r e n t o w a r d s t h e s l a v e p o p u l a t i o n . T h i s w e s h o u l d n a t u r a l l y e x p e c t to f ind a m o n g a p e o p l e n o t e d for the i r g e n e r a l b e n e v o l e n c e .

T h e D a n i s h G o v e r n m e n t k e e p s ve s se l s of w a r c o n s t a n t l y c r u i s i n g in t h e n e i g h b o r h o o d of t h e i r o w n pos se s s ions , w i t h a v i e w to p r e v e n t t h e e s c a p e of s l a v e s to t h e B r i t i s h I s l a n d s , w h i c h is f r e q u e n t l y , a n d n o t w i t h s t a n d i n g t h e v i g i l a n c e e x e r t e d , of ten success fu l ly a t t e m p t e d . T h e d i s t a n c e b e t w e e n t h e E n g l i s h a n d D a n i s h I s l a n d s , b e i n g i n s o m e p l a c e s less t h a n a m i l e , m a n y of t h e s e p o o r c r e a t u r e s m a k e d e s p e r a t e efforts, b y s w i m m i n g a n d o t h e r w i s e , to o b t a i n t he i r l i b e r t y b y t r e a d i n g o n B r i t i s h soil . H o w a p p r o p r i a t e , w e t h o u g h t , w a s t h e e x p r e s s i o n of C o w p e r ,

" They touch our country, and their shackles fall."

B e i n g r e a d y to p u r s u e o u r j o u r n e y , w e c o n c l u d e d to go first to T o r t o l a , a n d e n g a g e d a c o lo red m a n to t a k e u s to t h a t I s l a n d , in a s m a l l ves se l n o t m u c h l a r g e r t h a n t h e l o n g b o a t of a m e r c h a n t m a n . W e m a d e a r r a n g e m e n t s to l e a v e e a r l y i n t h e m o r n i n g , h o p i n g w e c o u l d r e a c h R o a d s t o w n before n i g h t . J u s t a s w e w e r e a b o u t l e a v i n g t h e w h a r f , o u r k i n d f r iend, E . S., u r g e d o u r t a k i n g a b a s k e t of f rui ts a n d p r o v i s i o n s , a n d a d e m i j o h n of g o o d w a t e r , w h i c h h e h a d p r o v i d e d , a n d w h i c h w e a f t e r w a r d s f o u n d a d d e d n o l i t t le to t h e c o m f o r t s of t h e v o y a g e , a s t h e s e a


w a s c a l m d u r i n g m o s t of t h e d a y , t he s u n e x c e e d i n g l y ho t , a n d t o w a r d s e v e n i n g w e f o u n d t h e c o n t r a r y w i n d s w o u l d p r e v e n t u s f rom r e a c h i n g o u r p l a c e of d e s t i n a t i o n be fo re m o r n i n g . W e p a s s e d St. J a m e s , St . J o h n s , J o s e - V a n d y k e , a n d a n u m b e r of s m a l l k e y s w h i c h fo rm a p a r t of t h e V i r g i n g r o u p . S o m e of t h e s e r ise v e r y a b r u p t l y f rom t h e s e a , e x t e n d i n g to t h e h e i g h t of m o u n t a i n s , s o m e of w h i c h a r e c u l t i v a t e d a l m o s t to t he i r s u m m i t s ; t h e c l o u d s r e s t i n g u p o n t h e i r s i d e s , p r e s e n t e d a n o v e l a n d i n t e r e s t i n g a p p e a r a n c e .

N i g h t c a m e o n a s w e a p p r o a c h e d T o r t o l a , b u t it w a s a n i g h t of u n c o m m o n b e a u t y . W e w e r e g l a d w h e n t h e c u r t a i n w a s d r a w n b e t w e e n u s a n d t h e s c o r c h i n g r a y s of a t r op i ca l s u n ; t h e a i r w a s e x c e e d i n g l y m i l d ; V e n u s s h o n e w i t h sufficient b r i g h t n e s s to ca s t a d i s t inc t s h a d o w , a n d to i l l u m i n a t e o u r w a t e r y p a t h , a s w e b e a t f rom s h o r e to s h o r e , i n a t t e m p t i n g to m a k e p r o g r e s s b e t w e e n St. J o h n s a n d T o r t o l a . A b o u t 9 o ' c l o c k , t h e full m o o n r o s e , a n d g a v e u s a n o p p o r t u n i t y to w i t n e s s t h e b e a u t i f u l s c e n e r y of t h e n e i g h b o r i n g h i l l s .

J u s t a b o u t t h e d a w n of d a y , w e l a n d e d a t R o a d s t o w n , a n d w e r e g l a d to r e l i e v e o u r s e l v e s f rom t h e f a t i gue w h i c h a w e a r i s o m e d a y a n d n i g h t in a n u n c o m f o r t a b l e o p e n ves se l h a d o c c a s i o n e d , b y ca l l i ng u p t h e i n m a t e s of a h o t e l c lose b y t h e s e a s i d e , a n d r e q u e s t i n g a b e d .

T h e o w n e r of t h e h o u s e , a n old c o l o r e d w o m a n , n a m e d M c C l a v e r t y , s o o n f u r n i s h e d u s w i t h t h e b e s t a c c o m m o d a t i o n s s h e c o u l d afford, a n d af ter w e h a d r e f r e s h e d o u r s e l v e s w i t h a n


h o u r or t w o of s l eep , a n d h a d t i m e to l ook a r o u n d t h e t o w n , w e f o u n d w e h a d t a k e n l o d g i n g s a t t h e o n l y p u b l i c h o u s e i n t h e p l a c e .

T O R T O L A .

Twelfth month 1 2 t h . — O u r l e t t e r s p r o c u r e d for u s a w e l c o m e r e c e p t i o n f rom W i l l i a m R . I s a a c s , a n d J a m e s D . R o g e r s , t w o of t h e p r i n c i p a l p r o p r i e t o r s a n d a t t o r n e y s u p o n t h e I s l a n d . T h e y e x p r e s s e d a w i l l i n g n e s s to afford u s al l t h e a s s i s t a n c e in t h e i r p o w e r , t o f u r t h e r t h e ob jec t of o u r m i s s i o n , a n d a c c o r d i n g l y , a r r a n g e m e n t s w e r e m a d e to ho ld s e v e r a l m e e t i n g s w i t h t h e p e o p l e .

W e n o t i c e d u p o n th i s I s l a n d , a s w e l l a s St . T h o m a s , m a n y s a d m e m o r i a l s of t h o s e v i o l e n t t o r n a d o e s , w h i c h so f r e q u e n t l y v is i t t h e s e t r o p i ca l r e g i o n s . I n 1 8 1 9 a n d 1 8 3 7 , m o s t of t h e b u i l d i n g s of R o a d s t o w n w e r e d e m o l i s h e d , t h e r u i n s of w h i c h a r e still left s h o w i n g t h e y w e r e o n c e c o m m o d i o u s a n d c o m f o r t a b l e h a b i t a t i o n s . T h e d e s t r u c t i o n b y t h e s e h u r r i c a n e s is of ten so c o m p l e t e , t h a t t h e o w n e r s of p r o p e r t y a r e u n a b l e to r e p a i r t h e d e s o l a t i o n w h i c h t h e y o c c a s i o n .

T h e m a r k e t of R o a d s t o w n is v e r y s m a l l , w h e n c o m p a r e d w i t h t h a t of S a n t a C r u z . T h e 7 t h d a y of t h e w e e k is a p p r o p r i a t e d for it . T h i s I s l a n d affords b u t f e w of t h e f iner f ru i t s , a n d t h e v e g e t a b l e s offered for sa le w e r e n o t n u m e r o u s . F r e s h a n d sa l t fish w e r e t h e ch ie f a r t i c les e x p o s e d b y t h e d e a l e r s .

W e h a d s e v e r a l m e e t i n g s in a n d a b o u t R o a d s T o w n . T h e first w e a t t e n d e d w a s he ld i n a M e t h o d i s t m e e t i n g - h o u s e , w h i c h h a d b e e n k i n d -


l y offered to u s for t h e p u r p o s e — t h i s w a s h e l d o n F i r s t - d a y m o r n i n g . T h e r e w e r e a b o u t e i g h t h u n d r e d p e r s o n s p r e s e n t ; a l a r g e r n u m b e r w e u n d e r s tood f r e q u e n t l y a t t e n d e d , b u t o w i n g to h e a v y r a i n s w h i c h o c c u r r e d in t h e m o r n i n g , m a n y w e r e p r e v e n t e d f rom c o m i n g . H e r e w e h a d a n o p p o r t u n i t y of s e e i n g a c o n g r e g a t i o n of p e o p l e , m o s t of w h o m h a d b u t l a t e ly b e e n r e l e a s e d f rom s l a v e r y . A l l g r a d e s of c o m p l e x i o n , f rom t h e fa i res t E u r o p e a n to t h e d a r k e s t N e g r o s k i n , w e r e i n d i s c r i m i n a t e l y m i x e d t h r o u g h o u t t h e h o u s e . O n e t h i n g w e h a d no t be fo re w i t n e s s e d w a s v e r y a p p a r e n t here;—it w a s t h e v e r y n e a t a p p e a r a n c e of t h e p e o p l e a s s e m b l e d — t h e i r d r e s s w o u l d h a v e b e e n c o n s i d e r e d a n e v i d e n c e of r e f i n e m e n t i n a n A m e r i c a n c i ty . W h e n w e e n t e r e d , t h e y w e r e e n g a g e d i n t he i r u s u a l d e v o t i o n s , i n w h i c h w e t h o u g h t t h e y m a n i f e s t e d g r e a t s i nce r i t y . A l t h o u g h t he i r fo rm of w o r s h i p w a s v e r y different f rom o u r s , w e c o u l d n o t d o u b t b u t m a n y of t he i r h u m b l e offerings w e r e a c c e p t e d of H i m w h o l o o k e t h a t t h e h e a r t . S u c h w e r e o u r fee l ings a s w e w e r e led to d e c l a r e a m o n g t h e m o u r c o n v i c t i o n of t h e t r u t h of P e t e r ' s d e c l a r a t i o n , a t t h e h o u s e of C o r n e l i u s , — " I p e r c e i v e t h a t G o d is n o r e s p e c t e r of p e r s o n s , b u t in e v e r y n a t i o n , k i n d r e d , t o n g u e , a n d p e o p l e , t h e y t h a t fear h i m a n d w o r k r i g h t e o u s n e s s sha l l b e a c c e p t e d of h i m . " T h e w h o l e c o m p a n y s a t i n g r e a t s o l e m n i t y , b e i n g e v i d e n t l y i n t e r e s t e d .

I n t h e a f t e r n o o n w e h a d a n a p p o i n t m e n t a t K i n g s t o n , a s e t t l e m e n t of co lo red p e o p l e , m o s t l y n a t i v e A f r i c a n s , l i b e r a t e d f rom t h e s l a v e s h i p s b y B r i t i s h i n t e r f e r ence . T h e d i s t a n c e f rom


R o a d s T o w n is a b o u t t h r e e m i l e s a c r o s s a n a r m of t h e s ea . I t b e i n g a p l e a s a n t d a y , w e w a l k e d to t h e p l a c e of m e e t i n g , b y a c i r c u i t o u s p a t h a l o n g t h e s e a - s h o r e , m a k i n g t h e d i s t a n c e n e a r l y f ive m i l e s . W h e n w e r e a c h e d t h e r e , w e f o u n d a b o u t f ive h u n d r e d m e n , w o m e n a n d c h i l d r e n , co l l ec ted n e a r t h e b e a c h , w h o s o o n g a t h e r e d a r o u n d u s , a n d w e h e l d a m e e t i n g u n d e r t h e d e n s e fo l iage o f a c lu s t e r of t a m a r i n d t r ee s . W e r e m e m b e r e d t h e d a y s w h e n o u r fo re fa the r s first l a n d e d o n t h e s e s h o r e s , a n d co l l ec ted t h e l o n g - n e g l e c t e d A f r i c a n s l a v e s a r o u n d t h e m , no t for t h e l ove of s i lve r or g o l d , b u t b e c a u s e t h e y felt t h e m to b e t h e i r b r e t h r e n , t o w h o m t h e y w e r e s e n t to p u b l ish t h e g l a d t i d i n g s of t h e g o s p e l of p e a c e .

T h e y s e e m e d ful ly to a p p r e c i a t e o u r l a b o r s a m o n g t h e m , a n d w h e n w e s a w t h e t e a r s f l o w i n g f r o m t h e y o u t h , a n d f r o m t h e h o a r y h e a d e d , w h o s e t e r m of p r o b a t i o n h a d n e a r l y a p p r o a c h e d i ts c lose , w e felt t h a n k f u l t h a t o u r lo t h a d b e e n cas t a m o n g t h e m , a n d t h a t w e h a d b e e n a b l e to g i v e a w o r d of e n c o u r a g e m e n t t o t h e s e p o o r b u t g o o d - h e a r t e d p e o p l e .

A s w e w e r e a b o u t c los ing t h e o p p o r t u n i t y , a n a g e d m a n co l l ec t ed t h r e e s too ls , a n d p l a c i n g o n e be fo re e a c h of u s , s a id w i t h t h e g r e a t e s t a p p a r e n t s i n c e r i t y — " N o w , m a s s a , y o u al l p r a y for u s be fo re y o u g o . " Af t e r e x p l a i n i n g o u r v i e w s for n o t c o m p l y i n g w i t h h i s r e q u e s t , w e g a v e t h e m a n a s s u r a n c e of o u r e a r n e s t d e s i r e s for t h e i r p r e s e n t a n d f u t u r e w e l f a r e , a n d e n c o u r a g i n g t h e m to l i ve in a s t a t e of d a i l y w a t c h f u l n e s s a g a i n s t s in , w h i c h w o u l d s e c u r e t o t h e m t h e f a v o r of h e a v e n , w e b i d t h e m f a r e w e l l . W h e n

3


t h e m e e t i n g c losed , t h e y s e e m e d u n w i l l i n g to p a r t un t i l w e h a d t a k e n n e a r l y e v e r y o n e b y t h e h a n d — n e i t h e r w o u l d t h e y c o n s e n t to o u r w a l k i n g b a c k , b u t , l a u n c h i n g o n e of t he i r b o a t s , t w o o f t he i r s t u r d y o a r s m e n s o o n l a n d e d u s a t R o a d s T o w n , in t i m e to a t t e n d a m e e t i n g a p p o i n t e d for u s t h e r e in t h e M e t h o d i s t c h a p e l .

T h i s s e t t l e m e n t of n a t i v e A f r i c a n s cons i s t s of a b o u t a h u n d r e d b u i l d i n g s , a n d five o r s ix h u n d r e d i n h a b i t a n t s . T h e B r i t i s h , s o m e y e a r s a g o , c a p t u r e d a n u m b e r of s l a v e s h i p s , a n d it b e c a m e a q u e s t i o n w h e t h e r t h e y s h o u l d co lon i ze t h e p e o p l e or s e n d t h e m b a c k to t he i r n a t i v e c o u n t r y . T h e y d e t e r m i n e d on t h e f o r m e r p ro j ec t , a n d th i s l oca t ion w a s se l ec ted for t h e p u r p o s e . S e v e r a l h u n d r e d a c r e s of l a n d w e r e g r a n t e d to t h e m b y W i l l i a m I V . T h i s t h e y c u l t i v a t e i n s m a l l p a t c h e s , b u t m o s t of it is h a r d a n d difficult of c u l t u r e , a n d suffers s e v e r e l y f r o m d r o u g h t . O n e of t h e m o b s e r v e d , t h a t w i t h a fair s e a s o n t h e y h a d p l e n t y , bu t d u r i n g t h e d r y s e a s o n t h e y a r e f r e q u e n t l y r e d u c e d to w a n t .

F i s h i n g , l i m e - b u r n i n g , a n d t h e c u l t i v a t i o n of t h e i r l i t t le d o m a i n s , c o n s t i t u t e t h e ch ie f o c c u p a t i o n s of t h i s c o m m u n i t y .

T h e i r l ime - s tone is t h e c o r a l r o c k , p i c k e d u p a l o n g s h o r e , a n d f r e q u e n t l y o b t a i n e d b y d i v i n g to a c o n s i d e r a b l e d e p t h . W e u n d e r s t o o d t h e y w e r e t h e p r i n c i p a l l i m e - b u r n e r s for t h i s a n d t h e n e i g h b o r i n g i s l a n d s — w e o b s e r v e d a n u m b e r of k i l n s r e a d y to b e f ired. T h e s e a r e f o r m e d of l a y e r s of w o o d a b o u t a foot t h i ck , a n d f rom 15 to 2 0 feet i n d i a m e t e r , a l t e r n a t i n g w i t h l a y e r s o f t h e co ra l t o t h e h e i g h t of S o r 10 feet. T h e


k i ln s b e i n g fired, it is p e r m i t t e d to b u r n un t i l all t h e w o o d e m p l o y e d i n its c o n s t r u c t i o n is c o n s u m e d , b y w h i c h t i m e t h e s t o n e is p r o p e r l y r e n d e r e d in to l i m e .

Twelfth month, 14 t h . — B e i n g f u r n i s h e d w i t h h o r s e s a n d a c c o m p a n i e d b y o u r k i n d f r iend W . R . I s a a c s , w e v i s i t ed h i s e s t a t e a t P l e a s a n t V a l l e y , w h e r e h e i n v i t e d u s to h o l d a m e e t i n g w i t h t h e r e s i d e n t l a b o r e r s . W e w a l k e d in to h i s c a n e fields, w h e r e b o t h m e n a n d w o m e n w e r e b u s i l y e n g a g e d p r e p a r i n g t h e soil for p l a n t i n g . W e c o u l d n o t b u t r e m a r k h o w c h e e r f u l l y a n d e a r n e s t l y t h e y p e r f o r m e d t h e i r l a b o r s — v e r y di f ferent ly f r o m t h e s l o w m o t i o n s of t h e s l a v e s of S a n t a C r u z — t h e r e a s o n w a s o b v i o u s : h e r e t h e y w e r e s t i m u l a t e d b y a r e w a r d for t he i r to i ls .

T h i s p r o c e s s of p r e p a r i n g t h e g r o u n d for c a n e s is ca l l ed " h o l e i n g . " E a c h l a b o r e r h a s h i s o r h e r p a r t i c u l a r p o r t i o n of d u t y a s s i g n e d — s o m e w i t h h u g e h o e s w e r e f o r m i n g t h e r i d g e s , o t h e r s c l e a r i n g t h e t r e n c h , a n d o t h e r s w e n o t i c e d w e r e c a r r y i n g s t o n e s u p o n t h e i r h e a d s to m a k e e m b a n k m e n t s . T h i s w e t h o u g h t a w a s t e of l a b o r , a s a ho r se or m u l e w o u l d h a v e d r a w n a l o a d t h a t a d o z e n l a b o r e r s w o u l d h a v e r e q u i r e d a n h o u r to c a r r y . T h e t r e n c h e s w h e n finished a r e a b o u t t w o feet d e e p , a n d t h r e e feet f r o m r i d g e to r i d g e — c r o s s e m b a n k m e n t s a r e m a d e a t s h o r t i n t e r v a l s , w h i c h f o r m s t h e h o l e — in th i s t h e c a n e p l a n t is p l a c e d , t h e r o w s b e i n g a b o u t five feet a p a r t . T h i s p l a n t is t h e t o p p a r t of t h e c a n e , n o t y e t m a t u r e d , f rom s i x t o t e n i n c h e s l o n g , w i t h t w o o r t h r e e j o i n t s , a n d is f r e q u e n t l y s o a k e d in w a t e r for s e v e r a l d a y s b e -


fore p l a n t i n g . T h e o n l y i n s t r u m e n t w e s a w u s e d w a s t h e h o e .

W i l l i a m R. I s a a c s a n d J a m e s D . R o g e r s i n f o r m e d u s t h a t t h e l a b o r e r s u n d e r t h e i r c h a r g e , w h o a r e a n u m e r o u s b o d y , man i f e s t m u c h s t a b i l i t y a n d i n d u s t r y , a n d t h a t e m a n c i p a t i o n o n th i s I s l a n d w o r k s to g r e a t sa t i s fac t ion .

T h e q u a n t i t y of s u g a r m a d e las t y e a r , a s w e l l a s t h e c o m i n g c r o p s , w i l l fall far s h o r t of t h e m o r e p r o s p e r o u s s e a s o n s d u r i n g t h e e x i s t e n c e of s l a v e r y — y e t t h e y a s se r t t h i s is no t o w i n g to n e g l i g e n c e o n t h e p a r t of t h e l a b o r e r s , b u t to t h e e x c e s s i v e d r o u g h t s w h i c h h a v e p r e v a i l e d , a n d f r o m w h i c h t h e I s l a n d h a s suffered s e v e r e l y .

F i f t e e n h u n d r e d h o g s h e a d s of s u g a r h a v e b e e n p r o d u c e d d u r i n g t h e b e s t s e a s o n s — f o u r h u n d r e d w e r e m a d e las t y e a r , a n d f r o m p r e s e n t a p p e a r a n c e s n o t m o r e wi l l b e m a d e t h i s . T h i s de f i c i ency h a s b e e n n o t i c e d b y t h e e n e m i e s of e m a n c i p a t i o n , a n d b e e n q u o t e d as p r o o f a g a i n s t t h e p ro f i t ab le w o r k i n g of f ree- labor .

O n e sh i l l ing c u r r e n c y ( 1 2 1 cen t s ) is g i v e n a s w a g e s for a d a y ' s l a b o r — e a c h f ami ly is p r o v i d e d w i t h a h o u s e a n d g a r d e n free of r e n t . T h e l a b o r e r s h a v e a l so t h e p r i v i l e g e of k e e p i n g c o w s , s w i n e , p o u l t r y , a n d g o a t s ; b u t t h e c o w s a n d goa t s , a r e ob l i ged to b e t e t h e r e d in t h e i r p a s t u r e - g r o u n d s , t h e r e b e i n g n o fences b e t w e e n p l a n t a t i o n s or in t h e d i v i s i o n of fields t h r o u g h o u t t h e I s l a n d .

T h e s o u n d of t h e c o n c h - s h e l l w a s a s i g n a l for a l l h a n d s to q u i t t he i r w o r k a n d a t t e n d t h e m e e t i n g .

W h i l e t h e w o r k - p e o p l e w e r e p r e p a r i n g t h e m -


s e l v e s , w e v i s i t ed t h e p l a n t a t i o n schools—fi f ty -t h r e e c h i l d r e n w e r e p r e s e n t , s i x t y b e i n g t h e n u m b e r o n t he i r list. W e w e r e e x c e e d i n g l y g ra t i f i ed w i t h t h e m a n n e r in w h i c h t h e c h i l d r e n p e r f o r m e d t h e i r v a r i o u s exe rc i s e s . T h i s s choo l h a d o n l y b e e n o p e n e d a b o u t four m o n t h s , a n d m o s t of t h e s c h o l a r s , a t t h e c o m m e n c e m e n t , k n e w n o t h i n g of l e t t e r s ; s o m e of t h e s e n o w r e a d to u s w i t h c l e a r n e s s a n d p rec i s ion . T h e s c h o l a r s fur n i s h e d a m p l e e v i d e n c e of a c a p a c i t y to r e c e i v e i n s t r u c t i o n .

T h e i r t e a c h e r is a y o u n g co lo red m a n of in t e l l i gence . T h e schoo l is u n d e r t h e s u p e r v i s i o n o f a n E p i s c o p a l C l e r g y m a n , a n d of c o u r s e m a n y of t h e e x e r c i s e s h a d r e f e r ence to t h e c r e e d a n d d o c t r i n a l v i e w s of t h a t d e n o m i n a t i o n .

S e v e r a l of t h e n e i g h b o r i n g P l a n t e r s a n d t h e i r f ami l i e s j o i n e d u s in t h e m e e t i n g ; a b o u t o n e h u n d r e d a n d fifty l a b o r e r s w e r e p r e s e n t . T h e o p p o r t u n i t y w a s sa t i s f ac to ry to u s , a n d t h o s e p r e s e n t a p p e a r e d to a p p r e c i a t e o u r l a b o r s a m o n g t h e m .

D e s i r i n g to m a k e a v i s i t to the P r e s i d e n t , H a y D r u m m o n d H a y , w h o s e r e s i d e n c e w a s u p o n t h e o p p o s i t e s ide of t h e I s l a n d , w e left o u r k i n d f r i ends a t t h e p l a n t a t i o n , a c c o m p a n i e d b y t h e m a n a g e r a s o u r g u i d e . T h e r o a d w a s difficult, b e i n g a t first a z i g z a g p a t h u p t h e s t e e p s ide o f a m o u n t a i n , a n d in m a n y p l a c e s a l o n g t h e e d g e of g r e a t p r e c i p i c e s , w h e r e w e w o u l d h a v e t h o u g h t it d a n g e r o u s to t r a v e l , h a d n o t o u r f r i ends a n d g u i d e a s s u r e d u s t h a t o u r h o r s e s w e r e s u r e foo ted . S o o n a f te r w e h a d c o m m e n c e d t h e a s c e n t , a n d w h i l e c o m m a n d i n g a de l igh t fu l v i e w of t h e p l a n t a t i o n , t h e l i t t le ch i l -

3 *


d r e n w e h a d j u s t left b r o k e for th i n conce r t , s i n g i n g o n e of t he i r in fan t i l e h y m n s . T h e s w e e t s o u n d ro se u p o n t h e b r e e z e a s it f a n n e d u s in o u r u p w a r d j o u r n e y , a n d l o o k i n g d o w n w e c o u l d p e r c e i v e t h e s e p o o r h a r d w o r k i n g b u t affect i o n a t e p e o p l e e n d e a v o r i n g to o b t a i n a las t look . W e a s c e n d e d a b o u t o n e t h o u s a n d feet , a n d f rom o n e of t h e e l e v a t i o n s n e a r l y a l l of t h e V i r g i n I s l a n d s c o u l d b e d i s t inc t ly s e e n . T h e I s l a n d of T o r t o l a f rom th i s s i t u a t i o n a p p e a r e d to b e o n l y a co l lec t ion of hi l ls .

W e w e r e v e r y k i n d l y r e c e i v e d b y t h e P r e s i d e n t , a n d a f te r o p e n i n g to h i m t h e objec t of o u r v i s i t to t h e s e I s l a n d s , h e s a i d h e w o u l d g l a d l y offer u s a n y a s s i s t ance in his p o w e r to a i d u s i n o u r mi s s ion . T h e c o n v e r s a t i o n w e h a d w i t h h i m chief ly r e l a t e d to t h e s t a t e of t h e I s l a n d , a n d t h e n u m e r o u s d e p e n d e n c i e s , a m o u n t i n g to a b o u t fo r ty , o v e r w h i c h h e p r e s i d e s . T h e s e d e p e n d e n c i e s a r e I s l a n d s or K e y s of v a r i o u s s i zes , b u t o n t h e w h o l e t h e p o p u l a t i o n d o e s n o t m u c h e x c e e d 8 ,600 . H e g a v e u s a v e r y f a v o r a b l e a c c o u n t of t h e o p e r a t i o n of t h e free l a b o r s y s t e m , a n d s t a t e d m a n y facts to s h o w t h a t it w a s a b l e s s ing to b o t h m a s t e r a n d s l a v e . H e sa id t h e a m o u n t of c r i m e w a s n o t m o r e t h a n o n e - t h i r d a s m u c h a s d u r i n g t h e e x i s t e n c e of s l a v e r y , a n d t h a t t h e m o r a l s of a l l c l a s ses w e r e o n t h e a d v a n c e ; t h a t n o n e w h o h a d n o w t r i ed t h e s y s t e m of free l a b o r w o u l d b e w i l l i n g to r e t u r n a g a i n to t h e f o r m e r p r a c t i c e of s l a v e r y , a n d t h a t m a n y w h o h a d b e e n t h e m o s t s t r e n u o u s o p p o s e r s of e m a n c i p a t i o n , w e r e n o w i t s s t r o n g e s t f r i ends . T h e l i b e r a t e d s l a v e s , h e s a i d ,


did no t man i f e s t a d i spos i t ion to t a k e a d v a n t a g e of t he i r n e w c o n d i t i o n , so a s to i n ju r e t he i r f o r m e r m a s t e r s , h u t o n t h e o t h e r h a n d w e r e w i l l i n g to w o r k for e v e n l i m i t e d w a g e s . H e c o n c u r r e d in t h e s t a t e m e n t , t h a t it w a s n o t for w a n t of a t t e n t i o n a n d l a b o r , t h a t t h e c r o p of s u g a r for t h e l a s t t w o or t h r e e y e a r s h a d fa i led , b u t a t t r i b u t e d t h e def ic iency to o t h e r c a u s e s , chief ly to t h e u n p r e c e d e n t e d d r o u g h t s .

W h e n w e p r o p o s e d g o i n g , t h e P r e s i d e n t o r d e r e d h i s h o r s e , a n d said h e w o u l d a c c o m p a n y u s five o r s i x m i l e s , on o u r w a y b a c k to R o a d s T o w n . A s w e p a s s e d a l o n g h e p o i n t e d o u t t o u s m a n y i m p r o v e m e n t s t h a t h a v e b e e n m a d e s ince t h e d a t e of e m a n c i p a t i o n . P a s s i n g a p l a n t a t i o n w h e r e a l a r g e n u m b e r of l a b o r e r s w e r e w o r k i n g n e a r t h e r o a d s i d e , h e r e m a r k e d t h a t h e d i d n o t s u p p o s e t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h a t c o m p a n y c o u l d b e m u s h b e t t e r e d b y e m a n c i p a t i on , a s m a n y of t h e m w e r e old a n d in f i rm, a n d h a d a l w a y s b e e n k i n d l y p r o v i d e d for b y t h e i r f o r m e r m a s t e r , b u t n o w w e r e u n d e r t h e n e c e s s i t y of p r o v i d i n g for t h e m s e l v e s , a n d p r o p o s e d w e s h o u l d q u e r y of t h e m h o w t h e y l i k e d f r e e d o m . T o th i s q u e r y a n a g e d m a n r e p l i e d — " 0 , v e r y w e l l , m a s s a . " B u t , s a y s t h e P r e s i d e n t , d id n o t y o u r f o r m e r m a s t e r g i v e y o u p l e n t y to eat a n d d r i n k , a n d w a s h e n o t a l w a y s v e r y k i n d to y o u : w h a t m o r e d o y o u ge t n o w ? T h e s a m e p e r s o n a g a i n r e p l i e d — " T h a t is all t r u e , — o u r m a s s a w a s k i n d e n o u g h to u s , — h e a l w a y s g a v e u s p l e n t y to e a t ; b u t t h e n w h i l e w e w e r e in s l a v e r y w e h a d to e a t it w i t h a s o r r y h e a r t . " W e t h o u g h t t h i s d e c l a r a t i o n of t h e old m a n w e n t to


p r o v e t h a t l i b e r t y is d e a r to e v e r y m a n , a n d t h a t w h e r e v e r t h e r e is a r a y of i n t e l l ec tua l l i gh t , a des i r e is felt to en joy th i s free gift of h e a v e n .

Twelfth month 1 5 t h . — H a v i n g b e e n fu rn i sh ed w i t h a n e x c e l l e n t b a r g e b y o u r k i n d f r iend T . B . , t h e M e t h o d i s t m i s s i o n a r y , w e e m p l o y e d fou r a t h l e t i c o a r s m e n , a n d left R o a d s T o w n e a r l y th i s m o r n i n g for S p a n i s h T o w n , or V i r g i n G o r d a , a n I s l a n d a b o u t t w e n t y m i l e s d i s t an t . T h e s e a b e i n g c a l m , w e h a d a p l e a s a n t v o y a g e , s t o p p i n g for a s h o r t t i m e u p o n o n e of t h e K e y s .

W e h a d s e n t to i n v i t e t h e i n h a b i t a n t s t o a m e e t i n g , a n d f i n d i n g u p o n o u r a r r i v a l it w o u l d n o t b e h e l d u n t i l e v e n i n g , w e w a l k e d o v e r t o M i n e h i l l to v i e w t h e p r e p a r a t i o n s m a k i n g to r e - o p e n a c o p p e r m i n e , w h i c h h a d b e e n w o r k e d a b o u t a c e n t u r y a g o . A b o u t forty m i n e r s f rom C o r n w a l l , E n g l a n d , a r e e m p l o y e d , a n d a b o u t o n e h u n d r e d a n d fifty co lo r ed m e n , w o m e n a n d ch i l d r e n . T h i s I s l a n d h a v i n g b u t a p o o r soi l , a n d d r o u g h t s f r e q u e n t l y o c c u r r i n g , t h e co lo r ed p e o p l e h a d b e c o m e d i s c o u r a g e d , a n d a l m o s t en t i r e ly n e g lec ted c u l t i v a t i o n . I n s t e a d of a d v a n c i n g t h r o u g h t h e m e d i u m of f r e e d o m in to a h i g h e r r a n k of c i v i l i z a t i o n , t h e y c o n t i n u e d w h e r e s l a v e r y left t h e m . T h r o u g h t h e e x e r t i o n s of t h e m a n a g e r of t h e c o p p e r m i n e s th i s c o n d i t i o n of t h i n g s h a s b e e n i m p r o v e d . N e e d i n g a s s i s t a n t s , h e ca l l ed t h e s e p e o p l e a r o u n d h i m , offering t h e m a c o m p e n s a t i o n for t h e i r l a b o r g r e a t e r t h a n t h e y h a d b e e n a c c u s t o m e d to r e c e i v e . T h i s i n d u c e d t h e m to e n t e r i n to a g r e e m e n t s w i t h h i m , a n d n o w b y m i l d b u t firm t r e a t m e n t , h e h a s so far b r o u g h t t h e m in to o r d e r , t h a t h e r e m a r k e d to u s

A VISIT TO T H E W E S T I N D I E S . 3 3

h e d id n o t w a n t b e t t e r o r m o r e fa i thful h a n d s . T h e g e n e r a l c h a r a c t e r of t h e n e g r o e s t h r o u g h o u t t h e I s l a n d s , is r e p r e s e n t e d to u s a s a m i a b l e a n d d o c i l e ; a n d e x p e r i e n c e h a s a m p l y s h o w n t h a t b y k i n d t r e a t m e n t t h e y a r e ea s i l y inf lue n c e d . C h a r l e s O ' N e a l , a y o u n g co lo red m a n , a n d o n e of t he h e a d c a r p e n t e r s a t t h e m i n e s , g a v e u s m u c h i n f o r m a t i o n in r e s p e c t to t he c o n d i t ion of t h e p e o p l e . D u r i n g o u r s t a y u p o n t h e I s l a n d h e p r o v i d e d for u s t h e bes t h i s h o u s e c o u l d afford, w i t h o u t r e w a r d — d e s i r i n g n o o t h e r t h a n o u r p r a y e r s for h i s p r e s e r v a t i o n . T h e r e m e m b r a n c e of C h a r l e s , a n d h i s ca re fu l a t t e n t i ons , w i l l r e m a i n w i t h u s w h e n far s e p a r a t e d f r o m h i m .

W e a l so v i s i t e d a n a t u r a l cu r io s i t y b y t h e s e a s h o r e , ca l l ed t h e " B a t h s . " I t is a co l lect i o n of i m m e n s e b o u l d e r s p i l e d u p o n e a c h o t h e r i n s u c h a m a n n e r , t h a t e n t e r i n g a m o n g t h e m b y n a r r o w a n d p r e c i p i t o u s p l a c e s , w e w e r e i n t r o d u c e d in to l a r g e o p e n i n g s l ike r o o m s , s u r r o u n d e d b y r u d e a n d r o c k y w a l l s . I n t h e i n t e r io r a r e t w o p l ace s i n to w h i c h t h e w a t e r flows f r o m t h e s e a , w h i c h b e i n g c o m p l e t e l y s e c u r e d f rom t h e s u n , fu rn i sh e x c e l l e n t a n d cool b a t h i n g p l aces . I n o n e of t h e a p a r t m e n t s w e e n t e r e d , w e f o u n d o u r s e l v e s d i r ec t ly u n d e r a co l lec t ion of s m a l l e r r o c k s , c o v e r e d p a r t l y w i t h e a r t h , o u t of w h i c h t r ee s of c o n s i d e r a b l e s ize w e r e g r o w i n g , w h o s e r o o t s w e r e h a n g i n g a r o u n d u s o n e v e r y s ide l ike r o p e s s u s p e n d e d f rom a ce i l i ng .

I n t h e e v e n i n g w e h a d a l a r g e m e e t i n g w i t h t h e i n h a b i t a n t s . A g r e a t n u m b e r of all c lasses of t h e p e o p l e w e r e p r e s e n t , a n d it h a s s e l d o m


b e e n o u r lot to see a m o r e a t t e n t i v e a u d i e n c e . T h e d i s t inc t ion of sec t , c a s t e , o r c o m p l e x i o n , s e e m e d to b e lost s ight of. I n t h e gospe l r e l a t i o n t he se m u s t e v e r v a n i s h : m a n m u s t r e c o g n i se all a s h is f e l lows , before h e c a n s a y — " O n e i s o u r m a s t e r , e v e n Chr i s t , a n d al l w e a r e b r e t h r e n . " W e w e r e l ed to o p e n to t h e s e p e o p l e s o m e of t h e s i m p l e t r u t h s of t he C h r i s t i a n r e l i g i o n , — s h o w i n g t h e m t h a t it s tood n o t i n " m e a t s a n d d r i n k s , d i v e r s w a s h i n g s , a n d c a r n a l o r d i n a n c e s , " b u t i n r i g h t e o u s n e s s , p e a c e a n d j o y in a h o l y spi r i t . O u r m i s s i o n w a s to ca l l t h e m to Chr i s t , a n d to h i s w o r k s w i t h i n t h e m , a s t h e m e a n s of r e d e m p t i o n ; a n d to t h a t o b e d i e n c e to t h e t e a c h i n g s of t h e Sp i r i t of T r u t h , w h i c h c o n s t i t u t e s t h e u n i f o r m g r o u n d of a c c e p t a n c e w i t h G o d , in e v e r y a g e , of al l t h o s e w h o fear h i m a n d w o r k r i g h t e o u s n e s s .

T h e s e v i e w s a p p e a r e d to comfor t m a n y , w h o h a d b e e n t a u g h t to b e l i e v e t h a t g o o d w o r k s w e r e of b u t l i t t le a v a i l , a n d t h a t r e l i g i o n c o n s i s t e d m a i n l y i n s u b s c r i b i n g to a b s t r a c t t h e o r i e s a n d o p i n i o n s , a n d a c o n f o r m i t y to t h e c e r e m o n i e s of t h e c h u r c h . A p o o r w o m a n w h o h a d b r o u g h t h e r s ick in fan t to u s , a n d i m p l o r e d u s to p e r f o r m t h e c e r e m o n y of b a p t i s m , — s a y i n g , t h a t a s t h e r e w a s n o r e s i d e n t c l e r g y m a n o n t h e I s l a n d , a n d t h e c i r c u i t - p r e a c h e r w o u l d n o t b e a m o n g t h e m for a fo r tn igh t , s h e f ea red t h e ch i ld w o u l d d i e , a n d w i t h o u t b a p t i s m s h e h a d b e e n t a u g h t to be l i eve it w o u l d n o t b e s a v e d , — s e e m e d g r e a t l y c o m f o r t e d o n finding w e c o n s i d e r e d w a t e r b a p t i s m of n o i m p o r t a n c e . W e h a v e b e e n in f o r m e d t h a t t he c l e r g y of t h e different sec t s ,


s ince t h e d a t e of e m a n c i p a t i o n , h a v e s t r o n g l y u r g e d t h e free co lo r ed p e o p l e t o c o n f o r m to th i s a n d o t h e r c e r e m o n i a l r i g h t s , a s e s s e n t i a l to r e l ig ion : w h e r e a s , d u r i n g t h e t i m e s of s l a v e r y , s u c h c o n f o r m i t y w a s s e l d o m t h o u g h t of, m u c h less r e c o m m e n d e d . W h y t h e y s h o u l d s t a n d less in n e e d of b a p t i s m w h e n in a s t a t e of s l a v e r y t h a n t h e y d o n o w , is n o t e a s y to c o n j e c t u r e , u n l e s s it b e t h a t u n d e r the i r f o r m e r c o n d i t i o n t h e y h a d no t t h e means to p a y for a n i n i t i a t i o n in to c h u r c h f e l l owsh ip . I t is g r e a t l y to b e f e a r e d t h a t m u c h of t h e h a r d e a r n i n g s of t h e p o o r p e o p l e of th i s a n d o t h e r I s l a n d s is e x a c t e d f rom t h e m to s u p p o r t t h o s e w h o call t h e m s e l v e s m i n i s t e r s of Chr i s t , b u t w h o , c o n t r a r y to a l l p r e c e d e n t or e x a m p l e of H i m or h i s a p o s t l e s , a n d i n v i o l a t i o n of h i s c o m m a n d , preach for hire, and divine for money.

Af te r t h e c o m p a n y h a d d i s p e r s e d w e p a r t o o k of s o m e r e f r e s h m e n t s , a n d l y i n g d o w n on t h e floor of t h e h o u s e in w h i c h w e h e l d t h e m e e t i n g , w e e n j o y e d a s w e e t r e s t f rom t h e f a t i gue o c c a s i o n e d b y th i s d a y ' s j o u r n e y a n d l a b o r .

Twelfth month 1 6 t h . — W e r o s e be fo re it w a s l i g h t , a n d m a d e o u r w a y to t h e b e a c h , w h e r e w e f o u n d o u r b o a t m a n r e a d y to t a k e u s b a c k to T o r t o l a . W e w e r e soon o u t of v i e w of t h e s i n g u l a r a n d p i c t u r e s q u e s h o r e of V i r g i n G o r d a , i ts r o c k y b e a c h e x h i b i t i n g f rom the d i s t a n c e t h e a p p e a r a n c e of a r u i n e d c i ty w i t h i ts d i l a p i d a t e d t o w e r s a n d cas t les .

I n a f e w h o u r s w e r e a c h e d F a t - h o g B a y , a n in l e t o n t h e s o u t h eas t s ide of T o r t o l a , a t w h i c h p l a c e w e l a n d e d , a n d t a k i n g a l i t t le g i r l for a


g u i d e , w e se t off t h r o u g h a d e n s e t h i c k e t to L o n g L o o k , t h e a n c i e n t h o m e of S a m u e l a n d M a r y N o t t i n g h a m , ( F r i e n d s of Br i s to l , E n g l a n d . )

A b o u t s i x t y y e a r s a g o the se e n l i g h t e n e d a n d b e n e v o l e n t F r i e n d s , w h o o w n e d a n d o c c u p i e d th i s e s t a t e , r e t u r n e d to E n g l a n d af ter h a v i n g m a n u m i t t e d t he i r s l a v e s , a n d m a d e t h e m a d e e d for t he p r o p e r t y a s a c o m p e n s a t i o n for t he i r se r v i c e s .

T h e y a lso f u r n i s h e d t h e m w i t h a l e t t e r of a d v i c e s u i t e d to t h e i r n e w c o n d i t i o n , w h i c h w e w e r e g l a d to d i s c o v e r h a d b e e n v e r y ca re fu l ly a t t e n d e d to . T h i s l e t t e r is c o n s i d e r e d b y t h e p r e s e n t o c c u p a n t s a s o n e of t he i r cho ices t t r e a s u r e s , a n d w a s h a n d e d to u s soon af ter o u r a r r i v a l a t t h e h o u s e of J a s p e r R a b s a t , o n e of t h e o ldes t m e m b e r s of th i s l i t t le c o m m u n i t y . T h e f o l l o w i n g is a c o p y :

" B R I S T O L , 3 0 t h of N i n t h m o n t h , 1 7 8 2 . " Bear George:—Thy le t te r of t h e 8 t h of S i x t h

m o n t h l a s t w a s r e c e i v e d , w h i c h w a s v e r y p l e a s i n g to u s to h e a r of t h e p r e s e n t g o o d d i spos i t ion of t h y s e l f a n d t h e r e s t of o u r l a t e s e r v a n t s , w h o s e w e l f a r e a n d h a p p i n e s s , b o t h h e r e a n d h e r e a f t e r , w e h a v e m u c h a t h e a r t . B u t w e a r e s o r r y to h e a r of t h e r e m o v a l of p o o r J o h n V e n t u r e , a n d H a r r y , t h o u g h w e a r e n o t w i t h o u t h o p e of t h e i r p a r t a k i n g of t h a t m e r c y w h i c h is e x t e n d e d to a l l w i t h o u t r e s p e c t of p e r s o n s , w h e t h e r w h i t e o r b l a c k .

S o , G e o r g e , r e m e m b e r w h a t w e w r i t e to t h e e , w e w r i t e to al l of y o u w h o o n c e ca l l ed u s m a s -


t e r a n d mi s t r e s s . B u t n o w y o u a r e a l l f ree , a s far a s it is in o u r p o w e r t o m a k e y o u , b e c a u s e n o n e a r e free i n d e e d , e x c e p t t h e y a r e free in Chr i s t .

T h e r e f o r e w e a d m o n i s h y o u , n o t a s y o u r m a s te r a n d m i s t r e s s , b u t a s y o u r f r iends a n d b e n e f a c to r s , b e s e e c h i n g y o u to b e c a u t i o u s of y o u r c o n d u c t , a n d c i r c u m s p e c t in y o u r b e h a v i o u r to a l l , t h a t n o n e m a y a c c u s e y o u of a b u s i n g t h a t f reed o m , w h i c h w e in t h e c o u r s e of d i v i n e P r o v i d e n c e h a v e b e e n a b l e to g i v e y o u . R e m e m b e r i n g a l s o , t h a t a s free m e n a n d w o m e n , y e s t a n d a c c o u n t a b l e for e v e r y ac t of y o u r c o n d u c t , a n d m u s t a n s w e r for t h e s a m e in y o u r o w n p e r s o n s if y e d o a m i s s . I n w h i c h c a s e t h e l a w s w h e r e y o u a r e , h a v e p r o v i d e d a p u n i s h m e n t a c c o r d i n g to t h e n a t u r e of t h e offence. B u t d o w e l l , a n d y e shal l h a v e p r a i s e of t h e s a m e . A n d that, y o u m a y b e a b l e to l i ve h o n e s t l y a m o n g m e n , w e h a v e g i v e n y o u o u r E a s t E n d p l a n t a t i o n o n F a t - H o g B a y , w i t h e v e r y t h i n g t h e r e u n t o b e l o n g i n g , w h i c h w e w i l l e n d e a v o u r to h a v e s e c u r e d to y o u b y a l l l a w f u l w a y s a n d m e a n s , t h a t n o n e m a y d e p r i v e y o u or y o u r offs p r i n g of i t , b u t t h a t y o u m a y f ree ly c u l t i v a t e a n d i m p r o v e it to y o u r o w n benef i t a n d a d v a n

t a g e , a n d t h e r e b y b e p r o v i d e d w i t h a sufficient s u b s i s t e n c e to l i ve c o m f o r t a b l y t o g e t h e r , in a l l f r i end l iness a n d co rd i a l i t y , a s s i s t i ng e a c h o t h e r , t h a t t h o s e m o r e a d v a n c e d in y e a r s m a y a d v i s e t h e y o u n g e r , a n d t h e s e s u b m i t t i n g to t h e c o u n sel of t h e e lde r , so t h a t g o o d o r d e r a n d h a r m o n y m a y b e p r e s e r v e d a m o n g y o u , w h i c h wi l l a s s u r e d l y d r a w d o w n t h e b l e s s i n g of t h e M o s t

4


H i g h . B u t if y o u h a v e n o t w h e r e w i t h a l to c u l t i v a t e a n d i m p r o v e t h e p l a n t a t i o n y o u r s e l v e s , w e a d v i s e y o u to h i r e y o u r s e l v e s for a s e a s o n to w h o m y o u p l e a s e , a s a l so t h e p l a n t a t i o n , if y o u t h i n k it n e c e s s a r y , till y o u a c q u i r e a suffic i ency to g o o n y o u r s e l v e s . B u t i n e v e r y s t ep y o u t a k e of t h i s k i n d , a l w a y s r e m e m b e r t h e g o o d of t h e w h o l e , a n d a s s o o n a s y o u c a n m a k e a b e g i n n i n g on t h e p l a n t a t i o n y o u r s e l v e s w i t h c o t t o n a n d p r o v i s i o n s , w e w o u l d b y all m e a n s h a v e y o u to d o it , t h a t y o u m a y n o t b e s ca t t e r e d , a n d too m u c h d i v i d e d , b u t e n d e a v o u r to d w e l l t o g e t h e r a n d b e c o n t e n t w i t h food a n d r a i m e n t , a n d a b l e s s i n g wil l c e r t a i n l y a t t e n d y o u u n d e r t h e i n f luence of s u c h a d i spos i t i on . T e l l D o r c a s V a n t e r p o o l w e a r e m u c h o b l i g e d to h e r for h e r f r i end ly c a r e a n d a t t e n d a n c e of p o o r J o h n V e n t u r e , a n d H a r r y , d u r i n g the i r s i ckness .

W e sha l l b e p l e a s e d to h e a r h o w y o u go o n , b y a n y o p p o r t u n i t y , a n d t h a t y o u c a u t i o u s l y m a i n t a i n a g o o d r e p o r t a m o n g t h e n e i g h b o r s . L i v e i n l ove a m o n g y o u r s e l v e s , a n d t h e p e a c e of H i m w h o p a s s e t h a l l u n d e r s t a n d i n g , wi l l a s s u r e d l y b e w i t h y o u a n d y o u r s , w h i c h w e e a r n es t ly d e s i r e a n d p r a y for, b e i n g y o u r s i n c e r e f r i ends a n d we l l w i s h e r s .

S A M U E L N O T T I N G H A M .

M A R Y N O T T I N G H A M . "

F r o m w h a t w e c o u l d l e a r n in r e l a t i o n to t h e s e p e o p l e , t h e y h a v e n e v e r a b u s e d t he i r f r e e d o m , a n d a l t h o u g h o p p o r t u n i t i e s to p r o m o t e t he i r p e c u n i a r y i n t e r e s t s h a v e b e e n v e r y l i m i t e d , t h e y h a v e sufficient for t he i r m a i n t e n a n c e , a n d t h e r e -


w i t h h a v e b e e n c o n t e n t . T h e f r e e d o m t h e y h a v e e n j o y e d h a s e v i d e n t l y i m p a r t e d to t h e m a m u c h m o r e d ign i f i ed m a n n e r t h a n w e d i s c o v e r e d in t hose w h o h a d b u t l a t e ly b e e n r e l e a s e d f rom s l a v e r y . A s a p r o o f of t h e benef i t s of f r e e d o m a n d free l a b o r , it is w o r t h y of n o t i c e , t h a t w h i l e m a n y of t h e p l a n t a t i o n s in th i s p a r t of T o r t o l a , f o r m e r l y u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n , a n d w o r k e d e x c l u s ive ly b y s l a v e s , h a v e l o n g s ince b e e n d e s e r t e d , a n d a r e n o w g r o w n u p a r u d e w i l d e r n e s s , t h e p l a n t a t i o n of S a m u e l a n d M a r y N o t t i n g h a m is still y i e l d i n g a c o m f o r t a b l e s u b s i s t e n c e to a p r o s p e r o u s a n d h a p p y c o m m u n i t y , n u m b e r i n g n o w a b o u t e i g h t y p e r s o n s in s i x t e e n d i s t inc t f ami l i e s .

I t i s , a l so , a n e n c o u r a g i n g m a r k of i m p r o v e m e n t , to d i s c o v e r t h a t s ince t h e d a t e of e m a n c i p a t i o n , m a n y a c r e s of t h e s e w a s t e l a n d s h a v e b e e n b r o u g h t u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n .

T h e p l a n t a t i o n g i v e n to t h e s e p e o p l e is n o w c u l t i v a t e d in s m a l l p a t c h e s b y t h e different fami l i e s . M a n y of the i r y o u n g p e o p l e h a v e g o o d t r a d e s a t w h i c h t h e y w o r k b o t h a t h o m e a n d a b r o a d . D u r i n g a v i o l e n t h u r r i c a n e in 1 8 3 7 , w h i c h d id a g r e a t dea l of d a m a g e o n th i s i s l a n d , t h e h a b i t a t i o n s of t he se p e o p l e w e r e n e a r l y a l l d e s t r o y e d , t o g e t h e r w i t h m a n y o t h e r t h i n g s o n w h i c h t h e y h a d to d e p e n d for a l i v ing . F r o m t h e losses o c c a s i o n e d b y th i s c a l a m i t y , t h e y h a v e n o t y e t ful ly r e c o v e r e d . S o m e of t h e o ldes t of t h e m r e t a i n a n a f fec t iona te r e m e m b r a n c e o f F r i e n d s ; o n e a g e d m a n , n o w q u i t e b l ind , i n f o r m e d u s t h a t h e f r e q u e n t l y h a d b e e n w i t h h i s m a s t e r , a t Q u a k e r m e e t i n g s in N e w Y o r k a n d P h i l a d e l p h i a .


W e h a d a v e r y i n t e r e s t i n g r e l i g i o n s o p p o r t u n i t y w i t h t h e m , a n d af ter b i d d i n g t h e m f a r e w e l l , s o m e of t he i r y o u n g m e n c o n d u c t e d u s b y a c i r c u i t o u s p a t h t h r o u g h a d e n s e t h i c k e t , a b o u t a m i l e d i s t an t , to t h e spo t w h e r e F r i e n d s o n c e h a d a m e e t i n g h o u s e in w h i c h t h e y a s s e m b l e d for soc ia l s p i r i t u a l w o r s h i p . T h i s w a s a p l a c e of i n t e r e s t to u s , for h e r e a r e b u r i e d t h e r e m a i n s of s e v e r a l of o u r v a l u e d m i n i s t e r s f rom P e n n s y l v a n i a a n d N e w J e r s e y , w h o v i s i t ed th i s i s l a n d a b o u t a c e n t u r y a g o , f rom a s ense of g o s p e l l o v e . T h e s t o n e f o u n d a t i o n of t h e m e e t i n g h o u s e w a s still r e m a i n i n g ; n e a r it five t o m b s h a d b e e n e r e c t e d a c c o r d i n g to a n a n c i e n t c u s t o m of t h e i s l and . T h e y w e r e bu i l t of b r i c k , a b o u t t h r e e feet a b o v e t h e g r o u n d , a n d c o v e r e d o v e r n e a t l y w i t h m o r t a r . T i m e h a d m a d e i ts r a v a g e s u p o n t h e s e m a n s i o n s of t h e d e a d . T h e a c a c i a s p r e a d t h i c k l y its t h o r n y b r a n c h e s o v e r t h e m , a n d n e a r t h e m t h e c e n t u r y b l o o m i n g a l o e w a s l u x u r i a n t l y g r o w i n g . A l t h o u g h n o e u l o g y w a s e n g r a v e n u p o n t h e m , y e t t h e t r ad i t i on of t h e p l a c e i s , t h a t t h e s e w e r e e r e c t e d to m a r k t h e r e s t i n g p l a c e of s t r a n g e r s , w h o h a d v i s i t ed t h e i s land a n d d i e d t h e r e . Af t e r t a k i n g a b r ie f s u r v e y of t h e s e m a n s i o n s of t h e d e a d , w e r e t u r n e d to t h e b e a c h w h e r e o u r b o a t m e n w e r e w a i t i n g , a n d in a f e w h o u r s w e w e r e safe ly l a n d e d a t R o a d s T o w n .

O u r n e x t vis i t w a s to M o u n t H e a l t h y . H o r s e s b e i n g f u r n i s h e d b y o u r k i n d f r iends , w e s t a r t e d i n t h e m o r n i n g in c o m p a n y w i t h s e v e r a l p e r sons . T h e r o a d l a y o v e r t h e m o u n t a i n s , — f r o m


t h e i r h e i g h t s w e h a d a v i e w of t h e t o w n , h a r b o r , a n d t h e a d j a c e n t V i r g i n I s l a n d s .

M o u n t H e a l t h y is a b e a u t i f u l spo t , o v e r l o o k i n g t h e s e a , b u t is n o w n o l o n g e r t h e r e s i d e n c e of t h e p r o p r i e t o r . T h i s is t h e ca se w i t h m a n y of t h e e s t a t e s . N o t i c e h a d b e e n g i v e n t h a t w e i n t e n d e d to h o l d a m e e t i n g a t t h i s p l a c e ; p r e v i o u s to i ts c o m m e n c e m e n t , w e w a l k e d t o a n e l e v a t i o n n e a r t h e h o u s e , w h i c h c o m m a n d e d a v i e w of t h e h i l l s a n d v a l l e y s t h a t c o m p o s e s e v e r a l a d j a c e n t e s t a t e s , m o s t of t h e l a b o r e r s o n which h a d q u i t t h e i r w o r k a n d w e r e c o m i n g to t h e m e e t i n g ; g r o u p s of t h e m c o u l d b e seen in v a r i o u s d i r e c t i o n s , c a r r y i n g o n t he i r h e a d s t h e i r t h r e e l e g g e d s too ls , o n w h i c h t h e y w e r e to s i t , o r a b e n c h , w h i c h t w o or t h r e e m i g h t o c c u p y , w a s o c c a s i o n a l l y b o r n e a l o n g . W h e n t h e y h a d a s s e m b l e d , t h e s i m p l e t r u t h s of t h e g o s p e l w e r e s p r e a d be fo re t h e m , w h i c h t h e y s e e m e d to c o m p r e h e n d , a n d t h e y w e r e d i r e c t e d to t h e sp i r i t of G o d w i t h i n t h e m , w h i c h w o u l d m a k e w i s e i n t h i n g s p e r t a i n i n g to e t e r n a l life.

T h e m o r e w e m i n g l e a n d b e c o m e a c q u a i n t e d w i t h t h e s e p o o r , b u t h i t h e r t o n e g l e c t e d p e o p l e , t h e m o r e d e c i d e d is t h e c o n v i c t i o n t h a t a l l t h e y n e e d is p r o p e r i n s t r u c t i o n a n d k i n d t r e a t m e n t , to e l e v a t e t h e m to a n e q u a l r a n k w i t h a n y o t h e r l a b o r i n g c lass .

Twelfth month 1 8 t h . — T o - d a y Ave m a d e a n i n t e r e s t i n g vis i t to A l b i o n , t h e e s t a t e of R . V . S h e w , h e h a v i n g k i n d l y i n v i t e d u s to m a k e h i s p e o p l e a v is i t , a n d ho ld a r e l i g io ns m e e t i n g w i t h t h e m a n d o t h e r s w h o m h e h a d i n v i t e d f rom t h e n e i g h b o r i n g e s t a t e s .

4 *


W e w a l k e d to h i s e s t a t e , b e i n g a b o u t t h r e e m i l e s f rom R o a d s T o w n , a n d h e m a n i f e s t e d g r e a t p l e a s u r e in t a k i n g u s o v e r it, r e q u e s t i n g u s to i n spec t t h e c o n d i t i o n of h i s l a b o r e r s in anyw a y w e w i s h e d . H e s h o w e d u s t he i r h o u s e s , g a r d e n s , a n d p r o v i s i o n g r o u n d s , a n d f rom w h a t w e c o u l d see a n d h e a r f rom t h e m , w e w e r e w e l l sa t i s f ied t h a t h e s t u d i e d , a n d w a s ca re fu l to p r o m o t e , t h e comfor t s of al l h e e m p l o y e d . H e sa id , b y a d o p t i n g th i s c o u r s e , h i s p e o p l e d e l i g h t e d to w o r k for h i m , a n d t h a t s ince e m a n c i p a t i o n h e h a s n o t f o u n d t h e l eas t difficulty in m a n a g i n g h i s e s t a t e . H e h a s g r e a t l y i n c r e a s e d h i s c u l t i v a t i o n s ince h e c o m m e n c e d u p o n t h e s y s t e m of free l a b o r , h a v i n g b r o u g h t u n d e r t i l l age , t h i s s e a s o n , a l a r g e a m o u n t of l a n d w h i c h h a d b e e n id le for t h e las t t w e n t y y e a r s . T h i s is t h e ca se w i t h o t h e r e s t a t e s u p o n th i s I s l a n d : t h u s s h o w i n g t h a t m u c h m o r e w o r k is n o w o b t a i n e d f rom t h e l a b o r e r u n d e r the s t i m u l a t i n g effect of w a g e s , t h a n u n d e r t h e d e p r e s s i n g s y s t e m of s l a v e r y .

A p l a n t e r f rom t h e n e i g h b o r i n g D a n i s h I s l a n d , S t . J o h n s , w a s w i t h u s , w h o is t h e o w n e r of a l a r g e n u m b e r of s l a v e s . H e e x p r e s s e d a p p r o b a t i o n of t h e s y s t e m p u r s u e d on th i s e s t a t e , r e m a r k i n g t h a t h e t h o u g h t t h e l a b o r e r s d id m o r e w o r k t h a n t h e s a m e n u m b e r of s l a v e s o n h i s p l a n t a t i o n . R . V . S h e w is t h e o ldes t p l a n t e r o n th i s I s l a n d . O n b e i n g a s k e d if h e w o u l d b e w i l l i n g to r e t u r n a g a i n to t h e old s y s t e m of cu l t i v a t i n g h i s e s t a t e b y s l a v e s , h e r e p l i e d v e r y e m p h a t i c a l l y , « N o t h i n g cou ld i n d u c e m e to d o


i t — t h o p r e s e n t s y s t e m w o r k s w e l l — i t h a s e x c e e d e d m y m o s t s a n g u i n e e x p e c t a t i o n s . "

W e h e l d o u r m e e t i n g b e n e a t h t h e s h a d e of a l a r g e S a n d B o x T r e e , so c a l l e d f rom t h e p e c u l ia r f o r m of its s eed ves se l , w h i c h r e s e m b l e s , a n d is f r e q u e n t l y u s e d a s a s a n d b o x .

W e c o u l d n o t b u t n o t i c e h o w n e a t l y t he se p e o p l e w e r e a t t i r e d , a n d w i t h w h a t a t t e n t i o n t h e y a p p e a r e d to l i s ten to w h a t w e h a d to c o m m u n i c a t e a m o n g t h e m , w h i c h b e i n g a w o r d of e n c o u r a g e m e n t , s e e m e d l ike a p r o c l a m a t i o n of s p i r i t u a l l i be r ty to t h e c a p t i v e , a n d t h e o p e n i n g of t h e p r i s o n d o o r s to t h e m t h a t a r e b o u n d .

W e p a r t e d w i t h o u r k i n d f r i ends , a n d r e t u r n e d to o u r h o t e l , w h e r e , in t h e e v e n i n g , w e h a d a m e e t i n g w i t h a n u m b e r of t h e i n h a b i t a n t s of R o a d s T o w n , w h i c h c o n c l u d e d o u r r e l i g ious s e r v i c e s in T o r t o l a .

S T . C H R I S T O P H E R S .

Twelfth month 22d—We left T o r t o l a a b o u t 9 o ' c lock o n t h e m o r n i n g of t h e 1 9 t h , in a sma l l s l o o p , a n d af ter a t e d i o u s b e a t to w i n d w a r d , w e l a n d e d a t B a s s e T e r r e a b o u t 4 o ' c l o c k , P . M . A p r o t r a c t e d v o y a g e of n e a r l y t h r e e a n d a h a l f d a y s , in a n u n c o m f o r t a b l e ve s se l , left u s w e a k f rom fa t igue , I t w a s n o t , h o w e v e r , w i t h o u t s o m e ob jec t s of i n t e re s t . E a r l y o n t h e m o r n i n g of t h e 2 0 t h w e w e r e i n s i g h t of S a b a , a n i s l a n d w h i c h r i ses a b r u p t l y f rom t h e s e a , a n d a p p e a r s to b e b u t a s ing le m o u n t a i n ; w e w e r e i n s igh t of it for t w o d a y s , b u t a t n o t i m e w a s t h e t o p v i s i b l e , in c o n s e q u e n c e of t h e c l o u d s r e s t i n g u p o n it.


W o a l so p a s s e d in s i g h t of D o g I s l a n d , A n g u i l l a , St . M a r t i n s , St . B a r t h o l o m e w s a n d E u s t a t i a . T h e l a t t e r is a s m a l l i s l and r i s i n g to a g r e a t h e i g h t a b o v e t h e s e a , a n d h a s t h e a p p e a r a n c e of a n e x t i n c t v o l c a n o — w e w e r e i n f o r m e d t h a t i t w a s s o , a n d t h a t w i t h i n t h e c r a t e r t h e r e is n o w a l a k e of w a t e r . W e s a w a n u m b e r of c a n e -fields a l o n g t h e coas t . A s w e p a s s e d a l o n g t h e s o u t h s ide of St . C h r i s t o p h e r s , w e h a d a fine v i e w of i ts b e a u t i f u l s c e n e r y . T h e c l o u d s w e r e f loa t ing a l o n g t h e s ides of t h e m o u n t a i n s — t h e t o p s b e i n g p a r t l y e n v e l o p e d b y t h e m — t h e c a n e -fields a n d s u g a r - h o u s e s a l o n g t h e v a l l e y s , a n d t h e d e n s e forests u p o n t h e h i l l s , a f forded re l ie f to t h e t e d i o u s n e s s of b e i n g b e c a l m e d for s e v e r a l h o u r s w i t h i n h e a r i n g of t h e s h o r e . W h e n w e l a n d e d w e s o o n found e x c e l l e n t a c c o m m o d a t i o n s a t t h e " V i c t o r i a h o t e l , " a h o u s e w h i c h h a d b e e n r e c o m m e n d e d to u s , a n d is k e p t b y a c o l o r e d w o m a n .

W e h a d l e t t e r s of i n t r o d u c t i o n to s e v e r a l p e r s o n s of th i s p l a c e ; o n e of w h i c h p r o c u r e d u s a w e l c o m e r e c e p t i o n f rom F . S. W i g l e y , w h o k i n d l y offered h i s a s s i s t ance to p r o m o t e t h e o b j e c t of o u r v is i t . H e i n t r o d u c e d u s to t h e G o v e r n o r , C h a r l e s C u n n i n g h a m , a n d o b t a i n e d h i s p e r m i s s i o n for t h e u s e of t h e C o u r t - h o u s e , i n w h i c h w e d e s i r e d to h a v e a r e l i g ious m e e t i n g . H e a l so a c c o m p a n i e d u s o n a v i s i t to t h e j a i l , i n w h i c h w e f o u n d t w e n t y - f o u r m e n a n d five w o m e n w e r e c o n f i n e d ; m o s t of t h e m for s m a l l o f f ences ; n o n e w e r e s e n t e n c e d for a l o n g e r t e r m t h a n s i x m o n t h s . T h e k e e p e r of t h e j a i l i n f o r m e d u s t h a t c r i m e s h a d v e r y m u c h d i m i n i s h e d


s ince t h e ac t of E m a n c i p a t i o n . T h e r e c o r d s of t h e p r i son s h o w e d t h a t f o r m e r l y t h e y often h a d as m a n y a s s e v e n t y , a n d s e l d o m f e w e r t h a n t w e n t y -five or t h i r t y p r i s o n e r s ; n o w t h e y f r e q u e n t l y h a v e b u t fifteen or t w e n t y , a n d s e l d o m a s m a n y as fifty. T h e j a i l w a s i n n e a t o r d e r , a n d t h e s y s t e m of p u n i s h m e n t g r e a t l y m o d i f i e d — t h e b a r b a r o u s p r a c t i c e s of f o r m e r d a y s w e r e a b a n d o n e d , a n d a m i l d e r a n d w i s e r m e a n s a d o p t e d for cor r e c t i n g t h e h a b i t s of t h e i n m a t e s .

I n t he i n t e r v i e w w e h a d w i t h t h e G o v e r n o r , h e i n f o r m e d us of t h e p r o s p e r o u s w o r k i n g of E m a n c i p a t i o n . H e sa id t h e p r o p r i e t o r s of e s t a t e s w e r e n o w freed f rom n o t o n l y t h e s h a c k l e s of t h e s l a v e s y s t e m , b u t f r o m t h e b o n d a g e of d e b t , u n d e r w h i c h m o s t of t h e m h a d b e e n l o n g l a b o r i n g , a n d t h e d e c l a r a t i o n of f r e e d o m to t h e s l a v e , w a s in t r u t h a p r o c l a m a t i o n of l i b e r t y t h r o u g h o u t t h e l a n d to all t h e i n h a b i t a n t s thereof .

W e m e t w i t h t h e G o v e r n o r ' s p r i v a t e s e c r e t a r y . H e is a n e d i t o r of a p a p e r in B a s s e T e r r e ; d u r i n g t h e c o n t r o v e r s y i n r e s p e c t to E m a n c i p a t i o n , h e b o l d l y a d v o c a t e d t h e c a u s e of t h e s l a v e .

H e is a Creole of co lor , b u t of th i s w e s h o u l d n o t h a v e b e e n a w a r e , w i t h o u t b e i n g to ld , h i s s k i n b e i n g w h i t e a s t h e E u r o p e a n . H e g a v e h i s v i e w s u p o n t he i r co lon ia l r e g u l a t i o n s w i t h m u c h f r e e d o m , a n d s t a t ed a n u m b e r of facts to show t h e p r e s e n t p r o s p e r o u s c o n d i t i o n of t h i n g s c o m p a r e d w i t h t h e t i m e s of s l a v e r y .

I t is n o w a b o u t t h e t i m e of t h e C h r i s t m a s h o l y d a y s , a n d w e no t i ce t h e re ta i l s t o r e s o f


B a s s e T e r r e a r e w e l l s u p p l i e d w i t h c u s t o m e r s m a k i n g t he i r p u r c h a s e s for t h e o c c a s i o n . P r e v i o u s to E m a n c i p a t i o n , t he se d a y s w e r e k e p t in r i o t i n g a n d d e b a u c h e r y ; b u t s ince t h e d a t e of f r e e d o m a g r e a t c h a n g e h a s b e e n man i fe s t . T h e a m u s e m e n t s , f o rmer ly in f a v o r , a r e fas t g o i n g o u t of d a t e , w h i l e a n a t t e n t i o n to r e l i g ious e n g a g e m e n t s is i n c r e a s i n g , a n d a m u c h g r e a t e r d e g r e e of m o d e r a t i o n o b s e r v e d ; still w e n o t i c e t h e w a n t of a b s t i n e n c e o n t h e p a r t of m a n y f rom t h e u s e of s t r o n g d r i n k s , a n d for t h e first t i m e s ince w e h a v e b e e n o n th i s m i s s i o n , w e s a w a n u m b e r i n t o x i c a t e d .

W e h e l d a m e e t i n g i n t h e C o u r t - h o u s e i n B a s s e T e r r e ; b u t s u c h w a s t h e p r e v a i l i n g d i s p o s i t i o n to m e r r i m e n t a m o n g t h e p e o p l e , i t s e e m e d difficult to g e t t h e m t o g e t h e r for re l i g i o u s p u r p o s e s .

Twelfth month 21th.—This m o r n i n g b e i n g t h e first d a y of t h e w e e k , w e w a l k e d o u t to S t o n e ' s F o r t , a n e s t a t e m a n a g e d b y R i g a m H i g -g i n s . W e w e r e k i n d l y r e c e i v e d b y o u r f r i end , a n d a s a p r e v i o u s a r r a n g e m e n t h a d b e e n m a d e for a m e e t i n g to b e h e l d in t h e m a n s i o n h o u s e , i t w a s w e l l a t t e n d e d b y t h e r e s i d e n t l a b o r e r s a n d a n u m b e r of o t h e r s f rom t h e a d j a c e n t p l a n t a t i o n s . T h e y w e r e e n c o u r a g e d to o b s e r v e t h e c o m m a n d of J e s u s , " s e e k first t h e k i n g d o m of G o d a n d t h e r i g h t e o u s n e s s thereof , a n d a l l t h i n g s n e c e s s a r y sha l l b e a d d e d u n t o y o u . "

I n t h e a f t e r n o o n w e h a d a m e e t i n g a t t h e h o u s e of J o h n C h a l l e n g e r , a n officer of t h e c u s t o m s in B a s s e T e r r e , b u t r e s i d i n g n e a r S t o n e F o r t . J o h n is a m a n of co lor , a n d h a s a n i n t e -

A VISIT TO T H E W E S T I N D I E S . 47

r e s t i n g f a m i l y ; t h e k i n d n e s s t h e y e x t e n d e d to u s w o n o u r a f fec t ionate r e g a r d .

J o h n h a s a t r a c t of l a n d , w h i c h h e is se l l ing a n d r e n t i n g in s m a l l l o t s , f o r m i n g w h a t t h e y ca l l a n i n d e p e n d e n t v i l l a g e ; t h a t i s , a s e t t l e m e n t n o t u n d e r t h e c o n t r o l of t h e p l a n t e r s , a s t h e l i t t le v i l l a g e s i n w h i c h t h e l a b o r i n g c lasses r e s i d e , g e n e r a l l y a r e . H e r e m a r k e d t h a t h e h a d b e e n c e n s u r e d for t h i s c o u r s e b y t h e p r o p r i e t o r s of e s t a t e s i n h i s n e i g h b o r h o o d . T h e fear of d r a w i n g f r o m u n d e r t h e i r con t ro l t h e l a b o r e r s w h o loca t e i n t h e m , a p p e a r s to b e t h e g r o u n d of t h e i r o p p o s i t i o n .

F r o m R i g a m H i g g i n s w e l e a r n e d t h a t t h e l a b o r e r s p e r f o r m e d t h e i r d u t i e s to sa t i s fac t ion . H e h a s g r e a t l y i m p r o v e d a n d i n c r e a s e d h i s c u l t i v a t i o n s ince E m a n c i p a t i o n . T h e w o r k is a l lo t t ed i n t a s k s , for w h i c h t w e n t y c e n t s is a l l o w e d . T h i s t a s k w a s r e g u l a t e d b y t h a t w h i c h a s l a v e f o r m e r l y a c c o m p l i s h e d i n a d a y , a n d i t is n o w c o m p l e t e d b y t h e free l a b o r e r i n four o r five h o u r s — t h e d a y ' s w o r k g e n e r a l l y c lo s ing a b o u t e l e v e n or t w e l v e o ' c l o c k i n the, m o r n i n g . S o m e a r e w i l l i n g to c o n t r a c t to d o t w o t a s k s p e r d a y , b u t w e u n d e r s t o o d t h a t i n a m a j o r i t y of i n s t a n c e s th i s w a s n o t t h e c a s e .

I n t h e e v e n i n g w e w a l k e d h o m e w i t h R i c h a r d C h a l l e n g e r , a c o u s i n of J o h n ' s , w h o s e r e s i d e n c e is in t h e t o w n of Old R o a d , a n d a t t e n d e d a l a r g e m e e t i n g i n a M e t h o d i s t m e e t i n g - h o u s e . W e r e a c h e d t h e h o u s e of o u r f r i end j u s t a s h i s f a m i l y w e r e p r e p a r i n g to go to t h e i r u s u a l m e e t i n g , a n d i t w a s p r o p o s e d t h a t w e s h o u l d a c c o m p a n y t h e m ; to th i s w e h a d n o ob jec t ion . A s


w e w a l k e d u p t h e a is le a n d t o o k o u r s e a t s , t h e e y e s of t h e m i n i s t e r a n d c o n g r e g a t i o n w e r e u p o n u s . T h e c u s t o m a r y e x e r c i s e s of t h e e v e n i n g , w h i c h h a d been c o m m e n c e d before w e e n t e r e d , w e r e d i s p e n s e d w i t h , a n d t h e m i n i s t e r , af ter i n q u i r i n g of o u r f r iend if t h e objec t of o u r v i s i t to t h e I s l a n d w a s a r e l i g ious o n e , k i n d l y offered u s t h e o p p o r t u n i t y to ho ld a m e e t i n g af ter o u r m a n n e r of w o r s h i p ; a n d a l t h o u g h t h e o p p o r t u n i t y w a s u n e x p e c t e d to u s , w e b e l i e v e d it w a s felt b y m a n y to b e a s e a s o n of D i v i n e f a v o r ; a n d t h e s i m p l e t r u t h s w e h a d to d e l i v e r a m o n g t h e m w e r e l i s t ened to w i t h m a r k e d a t t e n t i o n .

O n o u r w a y b a c k to B a s s e T e r r e , w e w e r e o v e r t a k e n b y a h e a v y s h o w e r of r a i n , w h i c h o b l i g e d u s to s e e k she l t e r in a smal l c a b i n t h a t s t ood n e a r t h e r o a d - s i d e . I t s o n l y i n m a t e w a s a n a g e d co lo red m a n , w i t h w h o m w e soon e n g a g e d i n f ami l i a r c o n v e r s a t i o n . " M y n a m e , " s a y s h e , " i s A d a m — " I l ive a l o n e — I a m too old to w o r k — I m u s t b e o n e h u n d r e d y e a r s o l d — I r e m e m b e r w h e n t h e r e w e r e b u t t h r e e p l a n t a t i o n s in t h e I s l a n d — I go t to b e o ld b e c a u s e I a l w a y s t a k e c a r e of m y s e l f — I g e t a l i t t le m o n e y b y se l l ing t a m a r i n d s — I c a n m a k e a p e n n y a d a y — t h i s p a y s for m y b r e a d — I a m w e l l c o n t e n t e d — I e x p e c t to d i e be fo re l o n g — I b e e n t r y i n g to l ive h o n e s t — s o I t h i n k I sha l l go to h e a v e n a t l a s t . " W e w e r e i n t e r e s t e d w i t h t h e old m a n ' s s i m p l e n a r r a t i v e — w e d id n o t d o u b t i t s t r u t h — " h is h o a r y l ocks p r o c l a i m e d h i s l e n g t h of y e a r s . " W e m a d e h i m a f e w s m a l l p r e s e n t s be fo re w e d e p a r t e d , l e a v i n g A d a m


w e l l p l e a s e d w i t h t h e i n t e r v i e w , w h i c h h a d also b e e n i n t e r e s t i n g to u s .

T h e m e r c h a n t s a n d p l a n t e r s h a v i n g b e e n so b u s i l y e n g a g e d i n socia l p a r t i e s , m e r r i m e n t s , a n d f eas t ings , w e h a v e h a d b u t f e w o p p o r t u n i t i es for c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h t h e m .

F e e l i n g c l e a r of St. C h r i s t o p h e r s , a n d f ind ing a t r a d i n g s loop g o i n g to A n t i g u a , w e e n g a g e d a p a s s a g e in i t , a n d left for t h a t I s l a n d .

A N T I G U A .

Twelfth month 30th.—After a b o u t t h i r t y -s ix h o u r s comfor t l e s s t o s s i n g , w e w e r e l a n d e d a t St . J o h n s , t h e p r i n c i p a l s e a p o r t a n d c a p i t a l of A n t i g u a . W e f o u n d g o o d a c c o m m o d a t i o n s a t a b o a r d i n g - h o u s e k e p t b y A l i ce B r o w n , a c o l o r e d w o m a n .

H a v i n g l e t t e r s to R . B . E l d r i d g e a n d R . H . M a s o n , t w o of t h e p r i n c i p a l m e r c h a n t s of t h e p l a c e , w e c a l l e d u p o n t h e m , a n d w e r e v e r y k i n d l y r e c e i v e d .

St . J o h n s is a n a n c i e n t l o o k i n g t o w n , w i t h a p o p u l a t i o n of a b o u t 5 0 0 0 . T h e E p i s c o p a l i a n s , M o r a v i a n s , a n d M e t h o d i s t s , h a v e l a r g e h o u s e s for w o r s h i p , w i t h n u m e r o u s c o n g r e g a t i o n s .

T h e M o r a v i a n s a r e a b o u t o n e - t h i r d of t h e w h o l e p o p u l a t i o n of t h e I s l a n d . T h i s sec t c o m m e n c e d t h e i r o p e r a t i o n s in A n t i g u a i n 1 7 5 6 , a n d e n t e r e d o n t h e i n s t r u c t i o n of t h e s l a v e s i n th is ' a n d o t h e r W e s t I n d i a n s e t t l e m e n t s . T h o u g h forced to e n d u r e m a n y difficulties a n d s e v e r e p r i v a t i o n s i n t h e p r o s e c u t i o n of t h e i r p i o u s u n d e r t a k i n g , y e t , b y a q u i e t p e r s e v e r a n c e a n d

5


c o n c i l i a t o r y d e p o r t m e n t , t h e y w e r e successfu l in effect ing g r e a t g o o d b y d i s s e m i n a t i n g k n o w l e d g e a m o n g t h e s l a v e p o p u l a t i o n .

A r ide to M a r b l e H a l l , t h e c o u n t r y s e a t o f o u r f r iend R . B . E l d r i d g e , g a v e u s a n o p p o r t u n i t y to see t h e f l o u r i s h i n g c o n d i t i o n of t h e c a n e -fields. T h e c r o p wi l l not. b e g a t h e r e d a s e a r l y th i s s e a s o n a s u s u a l o n a c c o u n t of t h e d r o u g h t . T h e g e n e r a l p r o s p e c t , w e u n d e r s t a n d , is fair . L a s t y e a r 2 0 , 0 0 0 h o g s h e a d s w e r e m a d e a n d e x p o r t e d , b e i n g a s g r e a t a n a m o u n t a s w a s p r o d u c e d d u r i n g a n y o n e y e a r u n d e r t h e s l a v e s y s t e m .

T h e m a n a g e m e n t of t h e e m a n c i p a t e d l a b o r e r s i s w e l l u n d e r s t o o d u p o n th i s I s l a n d — A n t i g u a a n d B e r m u d a s t a n d n o b l y a s t h e p i o n e e r s of f r e e d o m .

T h e a p p r e n t i c e s h i p s y s t e m w a s c a r r i e d o u t i n o t h e r i s l ands d u r i n g a po r t i on of t h e t e r m , to t h e m a n i f e s t d i s a d v a n t a g e of b o t h t h e p l a n t e r a n d a p p r e n t i c e . O n th i s I s l a n d t h e difficulties w e r e l e s s e n e d b y t h i s n o b l e a n d e x t r a o r d i n a r y m e a s u r e — t h i r t y t h o u s a n d b o n d m e n w e r e l i b e r a t e d i n a n h o u r , w i t h o u t r e s e r v a t i o n . O n o n e d a y t h e y w e r e u n d e r t h e c o n t r o l a n d w i l l of a m a s t e r — t h e n e x t f o u n d t h e m a s free a s t h o s e to w h o m t h e y w e r e i n d e b t e d for t h e b o o n . T h i s g r e a t e v e n t t o o k p l a c e w i t h o u t a s ing le i n s t a n c e of t u m u l t or d i s t u r b a n c e . T h i s w a s t h e t e s t i m o n y o f e v e r y o n e w e c o n v e r s e d w i t h o n the sub jec t o n t h i s I s l a n d .

T h e p l a n t e r a n d h i s l a b o r e r u n d e r s t a n d e a c h o t h e r ; t h e f o r m e r m a n i f e s t i n g a d i spos i t ion to d o j u s t i c e to t h e l a t t e r , f inds n o difficulty in o b -


t a i n i n g l a b o r e r s to c u l t i v a t e t h e e s t a t e s . T h e t a s k s y s t e m is v e r y g e n e r a l l y a d o p t e d o n t h e e s t a t e s , a n d h a s b e e n p r o d u c t i v e of g o o d . M a n y of t h e l a b o r e r s c a n a c c o m p l i s h t w o in t h e d a y , r e c e i v i n g t w e n t y - f i v e cen t s for e a c h t a sk . T h i s a l l o w a n c e of m o n e y , w i t h t h e p r i v i l e g e of h o u s e a n d g r o u n d s r e n t f ree , t h e k e e p i n g of c a t t l e , s w i n e , p o u l t r y , & c , is c o n s i d e r e d g o o d w a g e s . I t is q u i t e e q u a l to t h a t p a i d to t h e a g r i c u l t u r a l l a b o r e r i n P e n n s y l v a n i a .

A t t e m p t s a r e b e i n g successfu l ly m a d e to i n t r o d u c e h a b i t s of o r d e r a n d c l e a n l i n e s s i n t h e i r c o t t a g e s , w i t h t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n of f u r n i t u r e , a n d m a n y fixtures o f h o u s e h o l d e c o n o m y w h i c h w e r e u n k n o w n in t h e c a b i n of t h e s l a v e .

I t is c o n c e i v e d , t h a t w h e n t h e a d v a n t a g e s of t h e s e comfor t s is e x p e r i e n c e d b y t h e f e w , t h e i r e x a m p l e w i l l h a v e a p o w e r f u l in f luence u p o n t h e m a n y , a n d finding a n e e d of a d d i t i o n a l s u p p l i e s of m o n e y to m e e t t h e s e o u t l a y s , it w i l l b e a n i n c e n t i v e to l a b o r m o r e i n d u s t r i o u s l y to o b t a i n a n d p r o c u r e t h e m .

T h e different sec ts a p p e a r to b e e x e r t i n g t h e i r b e n e v o l e n t efforts to e l e v a t e a n d t r a i n t h e y o u t h for t h e i m p r o v e d s t a t i o n t h e y m u s t o c c u p y in t h e w o r l d . S c h o o l s h a v e b e e n e s t a b l i s h e d , a n d p a r e n t s a r e ca re fu l to s e n d t he i r c h i l d r e n to t h e m .

T h e l i b r a r y a n d r e a d i n g r o o m s of St . J o h n ' s , is a n i n s t i t u t i o n of c o n s i d e r a b l e i m p o r t a n c e , c o n t a i n i n g a b o u t five t h o u s a n d v o l u m e s . T h e E n g l i sh , A m e r i c a n , a n d C o l o n i a l n e w s p a p e r s a r e to b e s e e n u p o n t h e i r t a b l e s ; a n in t e l l i gen t co lo r ed m a n ac t s a s l i b r a r i a n .

First month 1st, 1 8 4 1 . — T h i s m o r n i n g w e


a t t e n d e d , b y i n v i t a t i o n , a m e e t i n g of a f r i end ly s o c i e t y , a n d h e a r d a r e p o r t of t he i r s i t u a t i o n , e x p e n d i t u r e s , & c , for t h e p a s t y e a r . T h i s soci -t y , w h i c h is s imi l a r t o m a n y i n s t i t u t i ons t h a t e x i s t a m o n g t h e co lo red p e o p l e in P e n n s y l v a n i a , i s c o m p o s e d of t w o h u n d r e d a n d s i x t y m e n a n d t w o h u n d r e d a n d n i n e t y w o m e n . I t s ob jec t is to afford a i d a n d a s s i s t a n c e to t h e a g e d a n d t h e s i c k ; t h e i r funds a r e r a i s e d b y m o n t h l y c o n t r i b u t i o n s ; t h e i r s u b s c r i p t i o n s w e r e q u i t e l i b e r a l ; t h e p h y s i c i a n ' s bill for t h e p a s t y e a r , w h i c h is p a i d q u a r t e r l y , w a s $875. T h e y h a v e a n u m b e r of in f i rm p e n s i o n e r s . T h e w h o l e n u m b e r t h a t r e a p t he benef i t s of t h e i n s t i t u t i o n , is a b o u t o n e t h o u s a n d , a s w h o l e fami l ies r e c e i v e m e d i c a l a i d , if b u t o n e m e m b e r of it is a t t a c h e d to t h e a s soc i a t i on .

W e w e r e i n t r o d u c e d to R i c h a r d N a n t o n , t h e c h i e f J u d g e of t h e I s l a n d , a n d f rom w h a t h e s a i d , w e w e r e led to b e l i e v e t h a t t h e m o r a l d e p o r t m e n t o f t h e co lo r ed p e o p l e is r e m a r k a b l y c o r r e c t . A t t h e las t sess ions of t h e C o u r t , b u t t w e n t y - o n e w e r e b r o u g h t to t r i a l , a n d t h e s e chief ly for tr ifl ing offences. D u r i n g t h e e x i s t e n c e of s l a v e r y , a s m a n y a s o n e h u n d r e d a n d s e v e n t y w e r e s o m e t i m e s be fo re t h e C o u r t . T h e s e o b s e r v a t i o n s a r e of i m p o r t a n c e , a s c o n -v e y i n g sa t i s f ac to ry p r o o f of t h e g o o d c o n d u c t o f t h e n o w free l a b o r e r s .

First month 3 d . — T o - d a y w e h e l d a re l i g i o u s m e e t i n g in St. J o h n s ; for t h i s p u r p o s e , w e p r o c u r e d t h e u s e of a l a r g e r o o m in o u r b o a r d i n g h o u s e , w h i c h p r o v e d m u c h too s m a l l to a c c o m m o d a t e t hose w h o s e e m e d d e s i r o u s to a t t e n d .


T h e m i n d s of m a n y of t h e different p rofessors of r e l i g i o n i n th i s p l a c e , h a d b e e n p r e j u d i c e d a g a i n s t u s , be fo re o u r a r r i v a l ; so m u c h s o , t h a t w e m e t w i t h g r e a t o p p o s i t i o n i n o u r a t t e m p t s to o b t a i n a h o u s e s u i t a b l e for t h e p u r p o s e of a p u b l i c r e l i g i o u s m e e t i n g . A l a r g e n u m b e r of t h e r e s p e c t a b l e i n h a b i t a n t s w e r e p r e s e n t o n t h e o c c a s i o n t o - d a y . T h e m e e t i n g p r o v e d to b e o n e of D i v i n e f avo r , a n d a l t h o u g h m a n y c a m e t h e r e w i t h t h e e x p e c t a t i o n of h e a r i n g , a s t h e y s a i d , " t h e t r u t h s of C h r i s t i a n i t y c o n t r o v e r t e d , " t h e y w e r e w e l l sa t i s f ied w i t h t h e o p p o r t u n i t y , a n d a c k n o w l e d g e d t h e i r u n i t y w i t h u s a n d o u r l a b o r s a m o n g t h e m . T h e i r m i n d s w e r e d i s a b u s e d of t h e p r e j u d i c e s t h e y h a d fos te red a g a i n s t u s ; v e r y m a n y offered t h e i r s e r v i c e s to ass i s t in o b t a i n i n g r e l i g ious o p p o r t u n i t i e s w i t h t h e p e o p l e , a n d f rom th i s t i m e w e f o u n d n o difficulty in o b t a i n i n g m e e t i n g s in t h e t o w n of St . J o h n s , a n d o t h e r p a r t s of t h e I s l a n d .

I n St . J o h n s , p a r t i c u l a r l y , w e h a d s e v e r a l v e r y l a r g e a n d i n t e r e s t i n g m e e t i n g s . D u r i n g o u r s t a y u p o n t h e I s l a n d , g r e a t o p e n n e s s a p p e a r e d a m o n g the p e o p l e , to h e a r a n d j u d g e for t h e m s e l v e s .

T h e c a u s e of t h i s p r e j u d i c e a g a i n s t u s , w a s a l e t t e r f rom M a h l o n D a y , of N e w Y o r k , t o N a t h a n G i l b e r t , a c l e r g y m a n of A n t i g u a . T h e f o l l o w i n g is a n e x t r a c t f rom i t : " S i n c e l a n d i n g i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , I h a v e l e a r n e d t h a t G e o r g e T r u m a n a n d J o h n J a c k s o n , t h e f o r m e r of P h i l a d e l p h i a , a n d t h e l a t t e r of D a r b y , n e a r P h i l a d e l p h i a , h a v e o b t a i n e d cer t i f ica tes f r o m t h e m e e t i n g s to w h i c h t h e y b e l o n g , to m a k e a re l i -

5 *


g i o u s v i s i t to t h e W e s t I n d i a I s l a n d s . T h e s e p e r s o n s m a k e t h e a p p e a r a n c e of F r i e n d s , a n d c l a i m to b e s u c h . I t is p r o p e r , h o w e v e r , t h o u a n d o t h e r F r i e n d s s h o u l d b e i n f o r m e d t h a t t h e y d o n o t b e l o n g to t h e r e l i g ious soc ie ty of F r i e n d s , b u t to a sec t w h o s e p a r a t e d f r o m u s in c o n s e q u e n c e of a d i sbe l ie f in t h e a u t h e n t i c i t y a n d d i v i n e a u t h o r i t y of t he h o l y s c r i p t u r e s — t h e D i v i n i t y a n d a t o n e m e n t of o u r b l e s sed L o r d a n d S a v i o u r , J e s u s Chr i s t , h i s m e d i a t i o n , i n t e r c e s s i o n , & c , a s t h e s e d o c t r i n e s h a v e a l w a y s b e e n h e l d b y F r i e n d s . T h i s sec t a s s u m e to t h e m s e l v e s t h e n a m e of F r i e n d s , b u t a r e c o m m o n l y k n o w n h e r e b y t h e a p p e l l a t i o n o f H i c k s i t e s , f r o m E l i a s H i c k s , t h e i n d i v i d u a l w h o w a s chief ly i n s t r u m e n t a l i n c a u s i n g t h e s c h i s m , b y c o n t r o v e r t i n g t h e a f o r e m e n t i o n e d d o c t r i n e s . T h e a c c o m p a n y i n g p a m p h l e t s se t fo r th t h e c a u s e s a n d p r o g r e s s of t h e s e p a r a t i o n , a n d t h e s t a t e m e n t s m a y b e re l i ed o n for a c c u r a c y . I t is d e s i r a b l e th i s i n f o r m a t i o n s h o u l d b e g e n e r a l l y c i r c u l a t e d w h e r e t h e y c o m e , t h a t t h e c h a r a c t e r of t h e r e l i g i o u s soc i e ty of F r i e n d s m a y n o t b e i m p l i c a t e d b y a n y s e n t i m e n t s t h e y m a y p r o m u l g a t e . "

T h e p a m p h l e t s r e f e r r ed t o , w e r e w r i t t e n a t t h e t i m e of t h e d i v i s i o n i n o u r soc i e ty , for party purposes, a n d a l t h o u g h t h e y m i g h t b e " r e l i e d o n " a s f u r n i s h i n g a s t r o n g p r o o f of t h e b i t t e r n e s s of t he i r a u t h o r s , t h e y c o n t a i n e d n o e v i d e n c e w h a t e v e r , t h a t t h e c h a r g e s e i t h e r in t h e m , o r i n t h e a b o v e l e t t e r , w e r e t r u e .

T h e s e , h o w e v e r , h a v i n g o b t a i n e d a sec re t c i r c u l a t i o n a m o n g t h e c l e r g y of t h e different


sec t s , i n d u c e d s o m e of t h e m to u s e t h e i r inf lue n c e to de fea t t h e ob jec t of o u r v is i t , b y p r e v e n t i n g , if pos s ib l e , r e l i g ious o p p o r t u n i t i e s w i t h t h e p e o p l e . A l l t he i r efforts, h o w e v e r , w e r e u n a v a i l i n g , a n d t h e i r o p p o s i t i o n t o u s o n l y h a d t h e effect to a w a k e n a n i n q u i r y i n t h e m i n d s of t h e p e o p l e , a n d to p r o c u r e for u s l a r g e a n d n u m e r o u s m e e t i n g s .

W h a t e v e r m i g h t h a v e b e e n t h e m o t i v e for w h i c h th i s l e t t e r w a s w r i t t e n , w e wi l l n o t p r e s u m e to j u d g e . I t is sufficient for u s t o s a y h e r e , t h a t t h e c h a r g e s c o n t a i n e d i n it a r e u n t r u e , a n d t h a t t h e l e t t e r a n d p a m p h l e t s r e f e r r ed to in i t , a r e a n u n f a i r r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f t h e c a u s e s of t h e u n h a p p y c o n t r o v e r s y w h i c h l ed t o a d i v i s i o n i n o u r r e l i g i o u s soc ie ty .

W e w o u l d s a y to t h o s e w h o w i s h i n f o r m a t i on r e s p e c t i n g u s , a n d t h e p a r t of soc ie ty to w h i c h w e a r e a t t a c h e d : j u d g e of u s b y o u r o w n s a y i n g s a n d a c t s , a n d n o t b y w h a t o u r o p p o s e r s m a y s a y c o n c e r n i n g u s .

T h e f o l l o w i n g e x t r a c t f r o m a n official d o c u m e n t i s sued b y t h e y e a r l y M e e t i n g of F r i e n d s of P h i l a d e l p h i a , a n d d i r e c t e d to t h e Y e a r l y M e e t i n g of F r i e n d s i n L o n d o n , m a y b e c o n s i d e r e d a s t h e vo i ce of t h a t b o d y , a n d se ts for th w h a t we b e l i e v e w e r e t h e t r u e c a u s e s of t h e d i v i s i o n i n o u r r e l i g ious soc i e ty , to w i t :

" W e a r e a w a r e t h a t o u r o p p o n e n t s h a v e p r o n o u n c e d us infidels a n d d e i s t s ! T h e y h a v e s a i d w e h a v e d e p a r t e d f rom t h e C h r i s t i a n f a i t h , a n d r e n o u n c e d t h e re l ig ion of o u r w o r t h y p r e -


d e c e s s o r s in t h e T r u t h . N o t h i n g is e a s i e r t h a n t o m a k e s u c h c h a r g e s a s t h e s e ; b u t i n t h e p r e s e n t c a se w e a r e h a p p i l y a s s u r e d t h a t n o t h i n g is h a r d e r t h a n to p r o v e t h e m . W e a r e n o t s ens i b l e of a n y de re l i c t i on o n o u r p a r t f r o m t h e p r i n c ip les l a i d d o w n b y o u r b l e s s e d L o r d . T h e h i s t o r y of t h e b i r t h , life, a c t s , d e a t h , a n d r e s u r r e c t i o n of t h e H o l y J e s u s , as in the volume of the Book it is w r i t t e n of him, we reverently believe. W e a r e n o t a s h a m e d of t h e G o s p e l of Chr i s t , b e c a u s e it is t h e p o w e r of G o d u n t o s a l v a t i o n to al l t h e m t h a t b e l i e v e ; n e i t h e r d o w e h e s i t a t e to a c k n o w l e d g e t h e D i v i n i t y of i t s a u t h o r , b e c a u s e w e k n o w f r o m l i v i n g e x p e r i e n c e , t h a t h e is t h e power of G o d , a n d t h e wisdom of G o d ; t h a t , u n d e r t h e p r e s e n t g lo r ious d i s p e n s a t i o n , h e is t h e one h o l y p r i n c i p l e of D i v i n e life a n d light; t h e u n l i m i t e d w o r d of g r a c e a n d t r u t h , w h i c h o n l y c a n b u i l d u s u p in t h e t r u e f a i t h , a n d g i v e u s a n i n h e r i t a n c e a m o n g al l t h o s e w h o a r e s anc t i f i ed ; n e i t h e r a r e w e sens i b l e of a n y d e p a r t u r e f r o m t h e fa i th o r p r i n c i p l e s of o u r p r i m i t i v e F r i e n d s .

" T h e c h a r g e s b r o u g h t a g a i n s t u s b y o u r o p -p o s e r s , t o i n ju r e a n d i n v a l i d a t e o u r c h a r a c t e r a s a C h r i s t i a n p e o p l e , a r e t h e s a m e t h a t w e r e p r e f e r r e d a g a i n s t o u r p r i m i t i v e F r i e n d s , a n d , w e a p p r e h e n d , u p o n t h e s a m e g r o u n d s . I n t h a t d a y , t h o s e w h o , l ike D i o t r e p h e s , l o v e d to h a v e t h e p r e - e m i n e n c e , c o u l d n o t b e a r to see a p e o p l e r i s i n g u p a n d b e a r i n g t e s t i m o n y to t h e t r u t h a n d p r a c t i c a l i m p o r t a n c e of t h a t h u m b l i n g d o c t r i n e ; ' B e n o t y e ca l l ed R a b b i , for o n e is y o u r m a s t e r , e v e n C h r i s t ; a n d al l y e a r c b r e t h r e n . '


( M A T T . 2 3 c. , 8 v . ) W e d o n o t b e l i e v e t h a t t h e d i s s ens ions w h i c h h a v e a p p e a r e d a m o n g s t u s h a d t h e i r o r i g i n so m u c h in di f ferences of o p i n i o n i n d o c t r i n a l p o i n t s , a s in a d i spos i t i on , a p p a r e n t in s o m e , to e x e r c i s e a n o p p r e s s i v e a u t h o r i t y i n t h e C h u r c h . T h e s e , i n o u r m e e t i n g s for d i s c ip l i ne , a l t h o u g h a smal l m i n o r i t y of t h e w h o l e , a s s u m e d t h e p o w e r to d i r e c t a c o u r s e of m e a s u r e s , p a i n f u l to t h e fee l ings , a n d c o n t r a r y to t h e d e l i b e r a t e j u d g m e n t of t he i r b r e t h r e n . T h u s t h e f e w u s u r p e d a p o w e r o v e r t h e m a n y , s u b v e r s ive to o u r e s t a b l i s h e d o r d e r , a n d d e s t r u c t i v e to t h e p e a c e a n d h a r m o n y of soc ie ty . Af t e r l o n g a n d p a t i e n t f o r b e a r a n c e , i n t h e h o p e t h a t o u r o p p o s i n g b r e t h r e n m i g h t see t h e i m p r o p r i e t y of s u c h a c o u r s e , t h e g r e a t b o d y of t h e Y e a r l y M e e t i n g s a w n o w a y to r e g a i n a s t a t e of t r a n qu i l l i t y , b u t b y a disconnection w i t h t h o s e w h o h a d p r o d u c e d , a n d w e r e p r o m o t i n g s u c h d i so r d e r s a m o n g s t u s . B y official a c c o u n t s , w h i c h w e b e l i e v e to b e n e a r l y c o r r e c t , f r o m all p a r t s of t h i s Y e a r l y M e e t i n g , it a p p e a r s , t h a t o u t of a b o u t twenty-Jive t h o u s a n d a d u l t s a n d c h i l d r e n , w h i c h c o m p o s e d it a t t h e t i m e of t h e d i v i s i o n , a b o u t eighteen thousand r e m a i n in c o n n e c t i o n w i t h th i s b o d y . "

O u r f r i end R i c h a r d H . M a s o n offer ing t o a c c o m p a n y u s , w e v i s i t e d t h e h o u s e of co r r ec t i on . S i x t y - n i n e p r i s o n e r s a r e n o w u n d e r s e n t e n c e , w h o a r e e m p l o y e d e i t h e r i n t h e y a r d , o r in a n e i g h b o r i n g q u a r r y . T h e y d o n o t u s e t h e c h a i n , w h i c h w e h a v e n o t i c e d e l s e w h e r e w h e n a t w o r k o u t s i d e t h e p r i s o n . T h e a p a r t -


m e n t s a r e k e p t c l e a n a n d i n g o o d o r d e r . T h e p r i s o n m a y b e l o o k e d u p o n a s a k i n d of m o r a l t h e r m o m e t e r , a n d t h e sca le s h o w s t h a t t h i n g s a r e m u c h b e t t e r n o w t h a n t h e y h a v e b e e n . I n 1 S 3 5 , e igh t h u n d r e d a n d s e v e n t y - f i v e p e r s o n s w e r e c o m m i t t e d , w h i c h is t h e h i g h e s t n u m b e r s ince t h e p r o c l a m a t i o n of f r e e d o m . I n 1 8 3 9 th i s n u m b e r w a s r e d u c e d to t h r e e h u n d r e d a n d e l e v e n c o m m i t t a l s . T h e d e p a r t m e n t for u n t r i e d p r i s o n e r s h a d a n u m b e r of i n m a t e s , w i t h s e v e r a l i n s a n e p e r s o n s . T h i s defec t is a b o u t b e i n g r e m e d i e d b y t h e b u i l d i n g of a s u i t a b l e a s y l u m for t h e s e p o o r c r e a t u r e s . W e h a d a m e e t i n g w i t h t h e p r i s o n e r s , w h i c h w e t h o u g h t a use fu l o p p o r t u n i t y .

Af t e t h e m e e t i n g w e v i s i t ed J o h n M i l l e r , t h e i n t e l l i gen t s u p e r i n t e n d e n t of t h e M i c o schoo l s . H e g a v e u s s o m e v e r y i n t e r e s t i n g i n f o r m a t i o n r e l a t i v e to t h e s e e s t a b l i s h m e n t s . A b e n e v o l e n t w o m a n b y t h e n a m e of M i c o , a b o u t t w o h u n d r e d y e a r s a g o , left a l a r g e s u m of m o n e y for t h e r a n s o m of A l g e r i n e c a p t i v e s , T h e m o n e y n o t b e i n g u s e d for t h a t p u r p o s e , t h e i n t e r e s t h a s s ince b e e n a p p r o p r i a t e d to t h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t of s choo l s in s e v e r a l of t h e B r i t i s h co lon ies .

T h e n u m b e r of c h i l d r e n o n t h e different i s l a n d s w h o a r e n o w r e c e i v i n g t h e benef i t of th i s f u n d , is e s t i m a t e d a t t e n t h o u s a n d . T h e i n t e re s t a n n u a l l y d i s b u r s e d , is a b o u t s e v e n t y t h o u s a n d d o l l a r s , t h i s h a s b e e n i n c r e a s e d b y a d d i t i o n a l f u n d s f rom g o v e r n m e n t . So far a s w e c o u l d l e a r n , t h e s e schoo l s a r e c o n d u c t e d v e r y m u c h a s t h e p u b l i c s choo l s in P h i l a d e l p h i a .

On o u r w a y to E n g l i s h H a r b o r , w e s t o p p e d


a t G r a c e H i l l , a M o r a v i a n e s t a b l i s h m e n t . T h e n u m e r o u s b u i l d i n g s of t h i s l i t t le s e t t l e m e n t cor r e s p o n d w i t h t h e s i m p l i c i t y a n d n e a t n e s s o b s e r v a b l e a m o n g t h i s p e o p l e . T h e schoo l is t a u g h t b y a c o l o r e d m a n , w h o a p p e a r e d w e l l qua l i f i ed for t h e s t a t i o n . H i s list of s c h o l a r s n u m b e r e d o n e h u n d r e d a n d s i x t y , a l t h o u g h n o t m o r e t h a n h a l f t h a t m a n y w e r e in a t t e n d a n c e . A t th i s s e a s o n t h e c h i l d r e n a r e s i ck ly , t h e coo l n e s s of t h e a t m o s p h e r e affect ing t h e m . T o u s , i t is r e m a r k a b l y m i l d a n d p l e a s a n t , y e t m a n y of t h e n a t i v e s c o m p l a i n of t h e c o o l n e s s of t h e m o r n i n g s a n d e v e n i n g s .

T h e s u p e r i n t e n d e n t a t G r a c e H i l l i n f o r m e d u s of t h e g o o d o r d e r p r e v a i l i n g w i t h i n t h e c i rc le o f t h e i r r e l i g ious c o m m u n i t y , a n d of t h e s a t i s f a c t o r y p r o g r e s s of t h e l a b o r e r s i n h a b i t s of i n d u s t r y . A b o u t t w o t h o u s a n d co lo red p e o p l e b e l o n g to t h e i r c o n g r e g a t i o n , m o s t l y se t t l ed i n w h a t a r e ca l l ed i n d e p e n d e n t v i l l a g e s . T h e s e v i l l a g e s a r e la id off in s q u a r e s , a n d h a v e b e e n p u r c h a s e d b y t h e e m a n c i p a t e d p e o p l e s ince t h e i r f r e e d o m . O n t h e s e p lo t s e a c h f ami ly h a s i t s c o t t a g e , a n d s u i t a b l e o u t h o u s e s , m a n y of w h i c h a r e of h e w n s t o n e , w i t h s h i n g l e d roofs . B u t m o s t of t h e m a r e bu i l t of w o o d , a n d t h a t c h e d w i t h s u g a r c a n e l e a v e s . T h e s e s e t t l e m e n t s h a v e a n a p p e a r a n c e w h i c h i n d i c a t e s t h e a d v a n t a g e s r e s u l t i n g f rom f r e e d o m . I t is h e r e , for t h e first t i m e , t h a t w e h a v e s e e n to m u c h e x t e n t , t h e e m a n c i p a t e d s l a v e s t a n d i n g u p o n h i s o w n soil b y r i g h t of p u r c h a s e , u n c o n t r o l l e d b y h i s f o r m e r m a s t e r . S e v e r a l h u n d r e d a c r e s a r e t h u s s e t t l e d in t h e va l l i e s , a n d u p o n t h e hil l s i de s , t h r o u g h


w h i c h t h e r o a d p a s s e d . W e u n d e r s t o o d t h a t , i n s o m e i n s t a n c e s , a s h i g h a s o n e h u n d r e d d o l l a r s p e r a c r e h a d b e e n p a i d for l a n d t h u s o c c u p i e d , a n d in th i s w a y a l a r g e q u a n t i t y of w a s t e l a n d h a d b e e n t a k e n u p . T h e g a r d e n s a p p e a r e d to b e w e l l c u l t i v a t e d w i t h v e g e t a b l e s , p i n e a p p l e s , c a n e s , &c. T h e m a r k e t s of St . J o h n ' s , a n d E n g l i s h H a r b o r , a r e to a c o n s i d e r a b l e e x t e n t s u p p l i e d f r o m t h e m . T h e v i l l a g e r s f o r m in to i n d e p e n d e n t g a n g s , o r a s t h e y a r e t e r m e d , " t a s k g a n g s , " w h o h i r e t h e m s e l v e s to t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g p l a n t e r , a s r e q u i r e d .

B y t h e s e c o m b i n a t i o n s t h e y c a n p e r f o r m m u c h m o r e l a b o r for t h e i r e m p l o y e r s , a n d e a r n for t h e m s e l v e s a n i n c r e a s e of w a g e s , w h i l s t it g i v e s a n o p p o r t u n i t y to c u l t i v a t e t h e i r o w n g r o u n d s .

T h e p l a n t e r is g r e a t l y bene f i t ed b y th i s m o d e , a s h e c a n d e p e n d u p o n h i s c a n e p i ece b e i n g p r e p a r e d i n a s h o r t e r p e r i o d of t i m e . W e f o u n d t h a t w h i l e " i n d e p e n d e n t v i l l a g e s " w e r e ob jec t e d to b y t h e p l a n t e r s of St . K i t t s , t h e A n t i g u a p l a n t e r e x p e r i e n c e s n o d i s a d v a n t a g e f rom t h e m , b u t o n t h e c o n t r a r y is bene f i t t ed . T h e r e s u l t s so f a v o r a b l e h e r e , m u s t n o d o u b t b e a t t r i b u t e d to t he b e t t e r t r e a t m e n t of t h e A n t i g u a l a b o r e r .

A t E n g l i s h H a r b o r o n e of t h e M i c o schoo l s is e s t a b l i s h e d , w h i c h w e v i s i t ed a n d w i t n e s s e d a n e x a m i n a t i o n of t h e s c h o l a r s b y t h e s u p e r i n t e n d e n t , J o h n M i l l e r , w h o t o - d a y w a s o q e of o u r c o m p a n y . T h e c h i l d r e n , l ike t h o s e w e h a v e h e r e t o f o r e s e e n , a p p e a r i n t e l l i gen t , a n d h a v e m a d e c o n s i d e r a b l e p r o g r e s s in the i r s t u d i e s , m a n y of t h e m a n s w e r i n g q u e s t i o n s on a v a r i e t y of s u b -


j e c t s w i t h m u c h r e a d i n e s s . T h e s e schoo l s a r e a g r e a t b l e s s ing to t h e c o m m u n i t i e s i n w h i c h t h e y a r e l oca t ed .

W e w e r e h i g h l y gra t i f i ed w i t h t h e m a n n e r of i n s t r u c t i o n , w h i c h a p p e a r e d s o m e w h a t n o v e l , b u t efficient to a r e m a r k a b l e d e g r e e in i m p r e s s i n g t h e l e ssons g i v e n b y t h e t e a c h e r .

T h e c h i l d r e n ge t n o l e s sons b y r o t e — t h e i n s t r u c t i o n is a l t o g e t h e r o r a l , a n d t h e w h o l e s choo l , y o u n g e r a n d o lde r , p a r t a k e in t h e s a m e e x e r c i s e s in G e o g r a p h y , i n c l u d i n g t h e u s e of M a p s a n d A r i t h m e t i c , N a t u r a l H i s t o r y , &c. I n t h i s w a y m a n y t h i n g s a r e i m p r e s s e d u p o n t h e y o u n g m i n d in a m a n n e r w h i c h a p p e a r s to a n i m a t e a n d i n t e r e s t t h e m .

W e h a d t w o m e e t i n g s a t E n g l i s h H a r b o r , v e r y m u c h to o u r s a t i s f a c t i o n ; a t o n e of t h e s e a l a r g e a n d m i x e d c o n c o u r s e of p e o p l e a s s e m b l e d . I t w a s g r a t i f y i n g to see t h e l i b e r a t e d s l a v e s a n d t he i r f o r m e r m a s t e r s m e e t t o g e t h e r in t h e h o u s e of w o r s h i p , a n d e n c o u r a g i n g to w i t n e s s t h e g r e a t a t t e n t i o n a n d r e s p e c t p a i d to o u r l a b o r s a m o n g t h e m .

T h e r e h a s b e e n , w e w e r e c r e d i b l y i n f o r m e d , a g r e a t ( a d v a n c e i n t h e m o r a l c o n d u c t of t h e p e o p l e of th i s p l a c e s ince e m a n c i p a t i o n . T h e t e s t i m o n y of t he p e o p l e is , t h a t i m m e d i a t e e m a n c i p a t i o n w a s t h e w i s e s t a n d b e s t m e a s u r e t h e co lo n y c o u l d h a v e p u r s u e d to p r o m o t e i m p r o v e m e n t . T h e g o o d effects of it a r e n o w to b e s e e n i n t h e c o n t e n t e d a n d h a p p y c o n d i t i o n of t h e l a b o r e r s .

I n a c o m m u n i t y w h e r e so m a n y t h o u s a n d s 6


w e r e s u d d e n l y r e l e a s e d f rom b o n d a g e , w e m i g h t n a t u r a l l y e x p e c t to find s o m e w h o w o u l d a b u s e t h e l i b e r t y t h u s g r a n t e d t h e m , — b u t t h e t es t i m o n y of a c o m p e t e n t j u d g e w o u l d i m p l y t h a t b u t f e w s u c h i n s t a n c e s h a v e o c c u r r e d . " N o w h e r e , " s a y s h e , " a r e p e r s o n s a n d p r o p e r t y m o r e s e c u r e t h a n t h e y a r e o n th i s I s l a n d — n o p o p u l a t i o n of e q u a l or e v e n g r e a t e r e x t e n t in t h e B r i t i s h d o m i n i o n s c a n b e m o r e ea s i l y g o v e r n e d . A s r e g a r d s t h e a d m i n i s t r a t i o n of t h e l a w s , t h e r e i s a c o n s c i e n t i o u s d i spos i t ion m a n i f e s t e d to d o j u s t i c e a n d to l ove m e r c y . " A f r iendly fee l ing is m a i n t a i n e d b e t w e e n a l l p a r t i e s — t h e r i g h t s of all a r e m u t u a l l y r e s p e c t e d ; t h e a r b i t r a r y m e a s u r e s of f o r m e r d a y s h a v e y i e l d e d to a m o r e m i l d a n d effectual m e a n s of g o v e r n i n g t h e m in a s t a t e o f F r e e d o m .

W e a l so h a d a n i n t e r e s t i n g m e e t i n g in t h e t o w n of F a l m o t h , a b o u t t w o a n d a h a l f m i l e s d i s t a n c e f r o m E n g l i s h H a r b o r .

T h e p e o p l e of t h i s p l a c e m a n i f e s t e d a t first a n u n w i l l i n g n e s s t o a t t e n d a m e e t i n g , w h i c h w e c o u l d n o t a c c o u n t for. T h e y f ina l ly to ld u s t h a t t h e d e m a n d s of t h e c l e rgy for m o n e y w e r e so f r e q u e n t t h a t t h e y a v o i d e d r e l i g ious o p p o r t u n i t ies o n t h a t a c c o u n t . O n b e i n g i n f o r m e d t h a t w e w e r e n o t of t h e c lass w h o " p r e a c h for h i r e o r d i v i n e for m o n e y , " t h e y s o o n g a v e t h e n e c e s s a r y i n f o r m a t i o n , a n d i n a f e w h o u r s a v e r y l a r g e c o m p a n y a s s e m b l e d i n a s u i t a b l e h o u s e p r o c u r e d for t h e p u r p o s e .

I n f o r m a t i o n h a s b e e n r e c e i v e d t h a t a B r i t i s h c ru i s e r h a s c a p t u r e d t w o s l a v e r s off P o r t o R i c o , w i t h s e v e r a l h u n d r e d c a p t i v e s o n b o a r d . T h e s e


p o o r c r e a t u r e s w i l l y e t h a v e t o u n d e r g o a s p e cies of s e r v i t u d e , a s it is no t t h e p r a c t i c e to s e n d t h e m b a c k to Af r ica . T h e p a r t i c u l a r s ec t ions of c o u n t r y , w h e n c e m a n y of t h e m h a v e b e e n t a k e n , a r e u n k n o w n — b e i n g far i n t h e i n t e r io r . T h e p l a n n o w a d o p t e d is to a p p r e n t i c e t h e m to t h e p l a n t e r s , w h o p a y a c e r t a i n s u m for t he i r s e r v i c e s , w h i c h g o e s to d e f r a y , i n p a r t , t he e x p e n s e s i n c u r r e d in t he i r d e l i v e r a n c e .

O n o u r w a y b a c k to St . J o h n s , w e v i s i t ed L i b e r t a , o n e of t h e i n d e p e n d e n t v i l l a g e s be fo re a l l u d e d t o , a n d h e l d a m e e t i n g w i t h t h e i n h a b i t a n t s . F r o m a litt le e m i n e n c e w e c o u n t e d a b o u t s i x t y c o m f o r t a b l e d w e l l i n g s , a l l of w h i c h h a v e b e e n e r e c t e d s ince 1 8 3 4 , a n d chief ly b y t h e e m a n c i p a t e d p e o p l e . W e t h o u g h t , f r o m t h e a p p e a r a n c e of t h e h o u s e s a n d g r o u n d s of t h i s l i t t le s e t t l e m e n t , t h e r e w a s a m p l e e v i d e n c e t h a t l i b e r a t e d s l a v e s w e r e a b l e to t a k e c a r e of t h e m s e l v e s , a n d t h a t w i t h t h e i m p u l s e s of f r e e d o m a n d t h e s t i m u l a n t of w a g e s for t he i r l a b o r s , t h e y w e r e c a p a b l e of b e c o m i n g a h a p p y a n d p r o s p e r o u s c o m m u n i t y .

N i c e d i s t inc t ions a r e m a d e o n th i s I s l a n d i n r e g a r d to c o l o r — m a n y v a r i e t i e s a r e n o t i c e d , w h i c h , to t h e i n i t i a t e d , h a v e t h e i r s e p a r a t e t i t les . I t w o u l d b e a h a p p y c i r c u m s t a n c e if t h e s e d i s t i nc t i ons w e r e less c o n s i d e r e d t h a n t h e y a r e ; b u t p r e j u d i c e s o n c e i m b i b e d , a r e v e r y difficu l t to e r a d i c a t e . W e f ind, h o w e v e r , t h e y a r e p a s s i n g a w a y , a n d t h a t in m a n y i n s t a n c e s t h r o u g h o u t t h e i s l and , pos t s of prof i t a n d h o n o r u n d e r g o v e r n m e n t a r e n o w h e l d b y p e r s o n s of color . T h e y a r e e l ec ted to l eg i s l a t ive a s s e m -


b l i e s , a n d s e v e r a l of t h e i m p o r t a n t s t a t i ons o n t h i s I s l a n d a r e n o w filled b y t h o s e w h o o n c e w e r e s l a v e s . T h e s e h a v e a c q u i r e d w e a l t h , a n d s t a n d u p o n a s r e s p e c t a b l e a foo t ing a s a n y o n t h e I s l a n d . W e d o n o t often see t h e r e a l b l ack m a n so p r o m i n e n t a s t h e l igh t co lo red . In t h e M a r s h a l ' s office, w e n o t i c e d h i s p r i n c i p a l c l e r k w a s a j e t b l a c k m a n .

M a r r i a g e s a r e n o w g e n e r a l l y s o l e m n i z e d a n d e n c o u r a g e d . D u r i n g s l a v e r y , t h e y w e r e in s o m e c a s e s n o t a l l o w e d . O n th i s i m p o r t a n t sub j ec t g r e a t e r r e f o r m a t i o n is n e e d e d . I n St. K i t t s n o n e b u t t h e c l e rgy of t h e C h u r c h of E n g l a n d c a n l e g a l l y p e r f o r m th i s se rv ice ; a n d t h e r e a r e m a n y a t t a c h e d to o t h e r r e l ig ious p e r s u a s i o n s o n t h a t I s l a n d w h o s e p r e a c h e r s a r e n o t p e r m i t t e d to officiate. T h e s e l ive a s t h e y f o r m e r l y d id , n o t b e i n g w i l l i n g to s u b m i t to t h e i n t e r f e r ence of t h e E n g l i s h C h u r c h in t h e a c c o m p l i s h m e n t of m a r r i a g e . A n a t t e m p t is b e i n g m a d e to d o a w a y w i t h t h i s r e s t r i c t i on , t h a t t h e y m a y b e l ega l ly s o l e m n i z e d b y t h e d i s s e n t i n g m i n i s t e r s .

Af t e r a m e e t i n g , w h i c h w e he ld a t t h e v i l l a g e of P a r h a m , w e h a d a n i n t e r e s t i n g c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h s e v e r a l i n t e l l i gen t y o u n g co lo red p e o p l e o n the sub jec t of a h i r e l i n g m i n i s t r y a n d w o m e n ' s p r e a c h i n g . I t w a s s o m e t h i n g n e w to t h e m to h e a r of a p e o p l e w h o b o r e a t e s t i m o n y a g a i n s t t h e p r a c t i c e of p a y i n g m i n i s t e r s for p r e a c h i n g , a n d w h o c o n s i d e r e d w o m e n c o u l d b e e q u a l l y qua l i f i ed w i t h m e n for t h e w o r k o f t h e m i n i s t r y . T h e y h a d b e e n t a u g h t to b e l i e v e t h a t a m a i n t e n a n c e of t h e c l e r g y w a s a d u t y w h i c h t h e g o s p e l i m p o s e d u p o n t he i r h e a r e r s ;


a n d t h a t t h e e x c l u s i o n of w o m e n from t h e e x e r cise of t h e m i n i s t e r i a l office w a s b a s e d u p o n t h e c o m m a n d of t h e A p o s t l e , w h e r e h e c a u t i o n e d s o m e t r o u b l e s o m e C o r i n t h i a n w o m e n a g a i n s t a s k i n g q u e s t i o n s in t h e c h u r c h e s . T h e y a p p e a r e d we l l sa t isf ied, af ter a n e x p o s i t i o n of o u r v i e w s u p o n t h e s e s u b j e c t s ; o n e of t h e y o u n g w o m e n r e m a r k i n g , t h a t s h e s a w n o g o o d r e a s o n w h y the i r s e x s h o u l d n o t b e p e r m i t t e d to p r e a c h , a n d a s a n e v i d e n c e t h a t t h e y d i d n o t l a c k t h e n e c e s s a r y qua l i f i ca t ion for t h e s e r v i c e , s h e i n f o r m e d u s t h a t o n e of t he i r m i n i s t e r s w a s i n t h e h a b i t of e m p l o y i n g a f e m a l e f r i end of h e r s to p r e p a r e a n d w r i t e o u t h i s s e r m o n s .

H a v i n g c o n c l u d e d to r e t u r n to St . J o h n s , w e t r a v e l l e d t h r o u g h a r i c h a n d h i g h l y c u l t i v a t e d p o r t i o n of t h e I s l a n d . W e s h o u l d h a v e b e e n p l e a s e d , h a d t h e w e a t h e r p r o v e d m o r e f a v o r a b l e , a s th i s w a s t h e las t o p p o r t u n i t y w e s h o u l d h a v e of e n j o y i n g t h e s p l e n d i d s c e n e r y w h i c h o p e n e d before u s , a s w e a s c e n d e d t h e f r e q u e n t e m i n e n c e s u p o n t h e r o a d . A l t h o u g h it r a i n e d , w e c o u l d n o t f o r b e a r l e a v i n g o u r v e h i c l e to s e lect s o m e fine s p e c i m e n s of pe t r i f ac t ions , w h i c h h a d b e e n w a s h e d o u t b y t h e l a t e r a i n s . T h e s e a r e c o m m o n to th i s p a r t of t h e I s l a n d . T h e y a r e of ten co l l ec ted for E u r o p e a n c a b i n e t s , a s t h e y fu rn i sh s i n g u l a r p r o o f of t h e c o n v e r s i o n of v a r i o u s w o o d s in to s i l ic ious m a t t e r . M a n y of t h e spec ie s of w o o d s n o w i n d i g e n o u s t o t h e I s l a n d , a r e f o u n d c h a n g e d in to m a s s e s of a g a t e , a n d w h e n po l i shed ac ro s s t h e g r a i n , i n d i c a t e t h e c h a r a c t e r of t h e t r ee w i t h g r e a t d i s t i nc tnes s .

A v is i t to t h e M i c o schoo l s a g a i n c o n f i r m e d 6*


p r e v i o u s i m p r e s s i o n s , t h a t t h e m o d e of i n s t r u c t i o n p u r s u e d is p e c u l i a r l y a d a p t e d to t h e y o u n g a n d t e n d e r m i n d . T h e m o r n i n g w a s s p e n t a m o n g t h e i n t e r e s t i n g l i t t le c o m p a n y in h e a r i n g t h e m p e r f o r m the i r e x e r c i s e s . A f t e r w a r d s w e ca l l ed i n a t w h a t w a s f o r m e r l y d e s i g n a t e d t h e C e n t r a l S c h o o l . T h i s is a free s choo l , w h e r e l a d s a r e p r e p a r e d for a co l l ege c o u r s e . L a t i n , G r e e k , a n d t h e M a t h e m a t i c s a r e t a u g h t . T h e g i r l s ' d e p a r t m e n t w a s c losed . B u t a n i n t e r e s t i n g c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h i ts i n t e l l i gen t p r i n c i p a l , a f e m a l e b y t h e n a m e of G r a v e s , l ed to t h e c o n c lu s ion , t h a t u n d e r h e r i n s t r u c t i o n s t h e c h i l d r e n c o u l d n o t b u t b e i m p r o v e d .

First month 20th.—Having m a d e a r r a n g e m e n t s to sai l for B a r b a d o s , in t h e A u g u s t a of P h i l a d e l p h i a , C a p t a i n M c M u r t r i e , w e b i d f a re w e l l to o u r w o r t h y l a n d l a d y a n d h e r h o u s e h o l d , w h o l o a d e d u s w i t h t he i r k i n d w i s h e s a n d b l e s s i n g s . S e v e r a l of o u r f r i ends t o o k b o a t w i t h u s for t h e ve s se l , w h i c h l a y a t a n c h o r s o m e d i s t a n c e f rom the s h o r e . A m o n g t h e n u m b e r w a s M i c h a e l H i g g i n s , a l i t t le co lo r ed l a d , a s o n of R i g a m H i g g i n s , of S t o n e ' s fort . H e is n i n e y e a r s o f a g e ; t h e l i t t le f e l low w o u l d no t l e a v e u s u n t i l t h e las t m i n u t e . W e w e r e q u i t e s u r p r i s e d to find h i m in t h e b o a t . H e h a d s e c u r e d a s e a t w i t h o u t o u r p e r c e i v i n g it . H e h a d a g r e a t dea l of c a u t i o u s n e s s , b u t h i s l o v e a p p e a r e d to h a v e o v e r c o m e it . T h e s c h o o n e r l a y m o r e t h a n a m i l e f rom t h e w h a r f , b u t t h e l i t t le b o y c o n c l u d e d , a l t h o u g h h e h a d n e v e r b e e n in a b o a t b e f o r e , h e w o u l d g o n o w . W e c o u l d s c a r c e l y a c c o u n t for th i s s t r o n g a t t a c h m e n t of


t h e l a d ; e v e r y m o r n i n g h e c a m e to see u s (after h e k n e w of o u r b e i n g in t o w n , ) f r e q u e n t l y t o o k b r e a k f a s t w i t h u s , a n d s p e n t t h e t i m e be fo re s c h o o l .

A s w e p a s s e d o u t t h e h a r b o r of St . J o h n s , w e s a w o n t h e b e a c h a ves se l w h i c h w a s c a p t u r e d s o m e t i m e a g o , a n d c o n d e m n e d a s a s l a v e r . S h e w a s t a k e n w i t h n e a r t h r e e h u n d r e d n a t i v e A f r i c a n s o n b o a r d . J u d g i n g f rom t h e s ize of t h e ve s se l , t h e s i t u a t i o n of t h e s e p o o r c r e a t u r e s o n t h e p a s s a g e m u s t h a v e b e e n w r e t c h e d in t h e e x t r e m e . T h e re f lec t ions o c c a s i o n e d b y t h e s i g h t of t h i s ve s se l , a w a k e n e d a d e e p s ense of t h e h o r r o r s of t h i s traffic in h u m a n flesh, a n d t h e c o u n t l e s s suffer ings so c r u e l l y inf l ic ted u p o n i ts u n h a p p y v i c t i m s .

B A R B A D O S .

O u r v o y a g e o c c u p i e d n e a r l y five a n d a h a l f d a y s f r o m A n t i g u a to B a r b a d o s . W e h a d g o o d a c c o m m o d a t i o n s o n b o a r d o u r P h i l a d e l p h i a s c h o o n e r ; t h e C a p t a i n b e i n g a n a g r e e a b l e y o u n g m a n , m a d e o u r t e d i o u s b e a t i n g to w i n d w a r d m u c h m o r e p l e a s a n t t h a n it o t h e r w i s e w o u l d h a v e b e e n . T h e r e w a s b u t l i t t le to i n t e re s t u s o n t h e v o y a g e , e x c e p t a v i e w of s e v e r a l of t he W i n d w a r d I s l a n d s . W e p a s s e d b e t w e e n G a u d a l o u p e a n d D e s i r a d a , b y P e t i t T e r r e , M i -r i a G a l a n t e — F r e n c h I s l a n d s ; a l so b y D o m i n i c o , M a r t i n i c o , a n d in v i e w of t h e h i g h m o u n t a i n s of S t . L u c i e . T h e s e I s l a n d s a r e v e r y h i l l y a n d m o u n t a i n o u s , a n d m a n y of t h e m e x h i b i t t r a c e s


of v o l c a n o e s . B a r b a d o s is t h e m o s t e a s t e r l y o f t h e W e s t I n d i e s . A s w e a p p r o a c h e d i t , w e p e r c e i v e d f rom i ts b r o w n a p p e a r a n c e , t h e effects of a l o n g a n d s e v e r e d r o u g h t . H a v i n g a v e r y d e n s e p o p u l a t i o n , it h a d t h e a p p e a r a n c e of m a n y t h i c k l y se t t l ed v i l l ages . O n t h e m o r n i n g of F i r s t m o n t h 2 5 t h , w e a n c h o r e d in C a r l isle B a y . W e s o o n f o u n d e x c e l l e n t a c c o m m o d a t i o n s , a t t h e b o a r d i n g h o u s e of H a n n a h L e w i s , a co lo red w o m a n , w e l l k n o w n in t h e s e p a r t s for t h e k i n d n e s s e x t e n d e d to t r a v e l l e r s w h e n u n d e r h e r roof. W e h a d l e t t e r s to d i v e r s p e r s o n s i n th i s p l a c e , b y w h o m w e w e r e k i n d l y r e c e i v e d . A m o n g th i s n u m b e r w a s S a m u e l J . P r e s c o d , a co lo r ed m a n , a n d a n ed i to r of a p a p e r ca l l ed " T h e L i b e r a l , " w i t h w h o m w e s p e n t a n h o u r s o o n af ter o u r a r r i v a l , v e r y a g r e e a b l y .

B r i d g e t o w n is a b u s y p l a c e , c o n t a i n i n g a b o u t t h i r t y t h o u s a n d i n h a b i t a n t s ; t h e s t r ee t s a r e g e n e r a l l y n a r r o w a n d c r o o k e d , b u t k e p t r e m a r k a b l y c l e a n . T h e y a r e all M a c a d a m i z e d , a n d c o v e r e d w i t h a k i n d of d i s i n t e g r a t e d c o r a l r o c k , r e s e m b l i n g a m o r t a r c e m e n t , w h i c h , fi l l ing u p t h e in t e r s t i ce s b e t w e e n t h e s t o n e s , fo rms a s m o o t h , c o m p a c t su r face . T h e r e a r e n o s ide w a l k s , — t h e c a r r i a g e w a y s , in m o s t p l a c e s , e x t e n d i n g to t h e w a l l s of t h e h o u s e s .

T h e e v i d e n c e s of c o m m e r c i a l b u s i n e s s is m u c h g r e a t e r t h a n in a n y t o w n w e h a v e y e t v i s i ted . T h i s I s l a n d is a b o u t t w e n t y - t w o m i l e s l o n g b y f o u r t e e n b r o a d , a n d c o n t a i n s a p o p u l a t ion of o n e h u n d r e d a n d t w e n t y t h o u s a n d .

T h e w e a t h e r is w a r m e r t h a n in A n t i g u a .


T h e difference is n o t so g r e a t a s w e h a d a n t i c i p a t e d , a l t h o u g h n e a r e r t h e E q u a t o r .

T h e c lose bu i l t t o w n d o e s n o t a d m i t t h e r e f r e sh ing s e a b r e e z e to ac t w i t h i ts r e v i v i n g i n f l u e n c e . O n e of t h e p r i n c i p a l s t r ee t s , h o w e v e r , affords a de l igh t fu l w a l k . O n th i s t h e r e is a r a n g e of c o t t a g e s o n e i t he r s ide , of n e a t c o n s t r u c t i o n , s u r r o u n d e d b y s h r u b b e r y , &c. W e n o t i c e d l a r g e o r c h a r d s of C o c o a - n u t t r e e s o n th i s s t ree t . I n 1 8 3 1 , a v i o l e n t h u r r i c a n e l a i d w a s t e t h e w h o l e I s l a n d , a n d d e s t r o y e d h o u s e s , t r e e s , a n d s h r u b b e r y . T h e p r e s e n t o r c h a r d s a r e t he r e fo r e y o u n g , a n d a r e j u s t b e g i n n i n g to b e c o m e p r o f i t a b l e ; t h e y a p p e a r to b e c u l t i v a t e d a s a n a r t i c le of m e r c h a n d i z e .

T h e p r i n c i p a l r e l i g i o u s d e n o m i n a t i o n s a r e t h e C h u r c h of E n g l a n d , t he M o r a v i a n s , a n d t h e M e t h o d i s t s . T h e M o r a v i a n s h a v e a t t a c h e d to t h e m , i n s e v e r a l c o n g r e g a t i o n s , a b o u t s i x t h o u s a n d m e m b e r s . W e h a d s e v e r a l i n t e r e s t i n g m e e t i n g s a m o n g t h e m . F r o m J o h n E l l i s , t h e M o r a v i a n M i s s i o n a r y , a n d E l i z a b e t h h i s w i f e , of B r i d g e t o w n , w e r e c e i v e d t h e k i n d e s t a t t e n t ion . T h e i r l a r g e a n d c o m m o d i o u s p l a c e of w o r s h i p w a s f ree ly offered to u s d u r i n g o u r s t a y h e r e .

T h e M e t h o d i s t s h a v e a b o u t fifteen h u n d r e d m e m b e r s . T h e y h a v e b e e n a p e r s e c u t e d p e o p l e , o n a c c o u n t of the i r o p p o s i t i o n to s l a v e r y . S o m e y e a r s p r e v i o u s t o t h e e m a n c i p a t i o n , t h e p o p u l a r fee l ing w a s so m u c h a g a i n s t t h e m , t h a t t h e i r c h a p e l w a s to t a l ly d e m o l i s h e d b y a m o b , a n d t he i r p r e a c h e r s d r i v e n f rom t h e I s l a n d .


T h e y h a v e s ince e r e c t e d s e v e r a l h o u s e s of w o r s h i p , a n d al l c lasses w o u l d b e g l a d n o w to b lo t o u t of r e m e m b r a n c e those s h a m e f u l p r o c e e d i n g s .

I t w o u l d s e e m t h a t m u c h m o r e C h r i s t i a n l a b o r is r e q u i r e d u p o n th i s I s l a n d t h a n is b e s t o w e d . T h e N a t i o n a l C h u r c h , it is s a id , h a s n o t b e e n v e r y a c t i v e i n t h e p r o m o t i o n of t he m o r a l c u l t u r e of t h e m a n y t h o u s a n d s it c l a i m s a s its m e m b e r s .

S . J . P r e s c o d is of o p i n i o n t h a t t h e p l a n t e r s a r e a c t i n g u n j u s t l y w i t h t h e l a b o r e r s . H e t h i n k s t h e y i m p o s e u p o n t h e m , a n d force t h e m t h r o u g h t h e i r necess i t i e s to l a b o r a t t h e i r o w n p r i c e s , t h e b a r g a i n i n g b e i n g chief ly m a d e b y t h e p l a n t e r s t h e m s e l v e s .

O n re fusa l of t h e l a b o r e r to t h e p r o p o s i t i o n s of t h e e m p l o y e r , h e is , or m a y b e , e jec ted f rom h i s c o t t a g e o n t w e n t y - f o u r h o u r s ' no t i c e . T h e p o p u l a t i o n b e i n g so d e n s e , a n d e v e r y h a b i t a t i o n o c c u p i e d , f e w o p p o r t u n i t i e s o c c u r for c h a n g e of r e s i d e n c e ; h e n c e , t h e s e p o o r p e o p l e m u s t s u b m i t . H e m e n t i o n e d a c a se of for ty o r fifty fami l i es b e i n g t h u s e jec ted , a n d w i t h a l l t h e i r c h a t t e l s t u r n e d in to t h e r o a d , w h e n af ter r e m a i n i n g t w o d a y s , t h e y w e r e o b l i g e d to a g r e e to w h a t t h e y c o n s i d e r e d a n i m p o s i t i o n of t h e i r e m p l o y e r . L a n d is h e l d a t a h i g h p r i c e ; f rom s e v e n t y to t w o h u n d r e d a n d fifty p o u n d s c u r r e n c y is o b t a i n e d p e r a c r e . A s t h e w h o l e of t h e i s l a n d is u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n , a n d r a t e d a t s u c h h i g h p r i c e s , t h e l a b o r e r , w i t h h i s s m a l l m e a n s , is c u t off f r o m t h e o p p o r t u n i t y of i m p r o v i n g h i s c o n d i t i o n ; o r , a s i n A n t i g u a , of f o r m i n g i n d e p e n d e n t s e t t l e m e n t s . E m i g r a t i o n is t h e o n l y d o o r left for h i m , a n d t h a t h a s b e e n a t t e m p t e d


t o b e c losed . W h e n t h e co lon i a l e n a c t m e n t s a g a i n s t it w e r e p r e s e n t e d for ra t i f ica t ion a t t h e H o m e g o v e r n m e n t its c o n c u r r e n c e w a s r e fused . I f l i be r t y to e m i g r a t e h a d b e e n t a k e n f r o m t h e m , t h e y m u s t h a v e r e m a i n e d in a s t a t e of o p p r e s s i o n b u t a l i t t le r e m o v e d f rom t h a t of s l a v e r y . P r e s c o d sees t h e s e f r a u d s a t t e m p t e d to b e p r a c t i s e d u p o n h i s b r e t h r e n , a n d is n o t a f ra id t o e x p o s e t h e m . H e h a s j u s t b e e n l i b e r a t e d f r o m p r i s o n t h r o u g h t h e p a r d o n of t h e g o v e r n o r , a f ter a n i m p r i s o n m e n t of e i g h t d a y s , h a v i n g b e e n s e n t e n c e d to t h r e e m o n t h s i m p r i s o n m e n t for l ibe l . I t is c o n s i d e r e d b y m a n y , m o r e a m a t t e r of p e r s e c u t i o n t h a n a n y t h i n g e l se , a n d s o , p r o b a b l y , t h o u g h t t h e g o v e r n o r .

A n o t h e r o b j e c t i o n a b l e f e a t u r e is n o t i c e d , a n d w h i c h m u s t b e e x c e e d i n g l y o p p r e s s i v e w h e n en fo rced , a s it is r e p o r t e d to h a v e b e e n in d i v e r s i n s t a n c e s , t h a t is , t h e e x e r c i s e of i n d e p e n d e n t w i l l s i n m a n a n d wife . T h i s is o n e of t h e re l ics of s l a v e r y w h e n t h e y w e r e n o t k n o w n i n t h a t r e l a t i on .

T h e o p e r a t i o n of t h i s s i n g u l a r f e a t u r e is t h i s , if t h e h u s b a n d d e m u r s f r o m t h e d e m a n d s of h i s e m p l o y e r s , h e m a y b e e jec ted f rom h i s f a m i l y a n d c o t t a g e , h i s w i f e a n d c h i l d r e n r e m a i n i n g . O n t h e o t h e r h a n d , if t h e wi fe ob jec t s , s h e m a y b e t r e a t e d i n t h e s a m e m a n n e r , w h i l e t h e h u s b a n d m a y r e m a i n . F a m i l i e s h a v e b e e n s e p a r a t e d a n d b r o k e n u p b y th i s s y s t e m , a n d n o o p p o r t u n i t y of r e u n i o n c a n occu r e x c e p t o n t h e e m p l o y e r s t e r m s , i n c o n s e q u e n c e of t h e d e n s i t y of t h e p o p u l a t i o n w h i c h o c c u p i e s e v e r y h a b i t a t i o n o n t h e i s l and . I t is to b e h o p e d t h a t al l


t h e s e i ncons i s t en t r e g u l a t i o n s , so i n imica l to t h e p e a c e a n d h a r m o n y of t h e c o m m u n i t y , wil l b e a b o l i s h e d . T h e free l a b o r e r s o n t h e o t h e r i s l a n d s , a n d p a r t i c u l a r l y in A n t i g u a , a r e m u c h m o r e l ike ly to r e a l i z e t h e b l e s s ings of e m a n c i p a t i o n t h a n h e r e ; t h e r e , w i t h a s m a l l s u m of m o n e y , t h e y c a n p u r c h a s e lo ts of g r o u n d , a n d b e c o m e f ree -ho lde r s , h a v i n g a l l t h e f r anch i ses of t h e full c i t i zen , to p l a c e t he i r o w n r e p r e s e n t a t i ves i n t h e co lon ia l l e g i s l a t u r e . T h e r e , e a c h l a b o r e r b u i l d s h i s o w n h o u s e . I f n o t a m a s o n , o r a c a r p e n t e r , h e c a n b u i l d a w a t t l e d c a b i n , a n d t h u s c o m m e n c e free life on his o w n g r o u n d . S u c h a c a se c a n s ca r ce ly o c c u r in B a r b a d o s .

T h e u s u a l a l l o w a n c e of w a g e s p e r d a y , is t w e n t y c e n t s in m o n e y , to t he d o m i c i l e d l a b o r e r ; t h a t is , a l a b o r e r w h o o c c u p i e s a c o t t a g e b e l o n g i n g to a n e s t a t e . I f o n e f rom t h e n e i g h b o r i n g p l a n t a t i o n is h i r e d , h e g e t s t h i r t y c e n t s , o r if t h e d o m i c i l e d l a b o r e r h i r e s h i m s e l f to h i s e m p l o y e r on h i s S e v e n t h - d a y , h e is a l l o w e d t h i r t y c e n t s ; t h i s ( th i r ty cen t s ) is c o n s i d e r e d t h e m a x i m u m s t a n d a r d of w a g e s .

T h e d o m i c i l e d l a b o r e r , t h e r e f o r e , p a y s t e n c e n t s p e r d a y for t h e u s e of h i s c o t t a g e a n d g r o u n d s , if, of t h e l a t t e r , h e h a s a n y , w h i c h is n o t a l w a y s t h e case . T h e wi f e , if s h e l a b o r s in t h e field, is a l l o w e d t h e s a m e w a g e s , w i t h t h e s a m e r e d u c t i o n of t e n c e n t s , a n d so w i t h a n y o t h e r m e m b e r o f t h e f ami ly w h o m a y b e a b l e t o e n t e r u p o n field l a b o r . T h u s e v e r y i n d i v i d u a l of t h e f ami ly a b l e to w o r k , p a y s t h e e q u a l r e n t of t e n c e n t s p e r d a y . I t w o u l d a p p e a r in t h e w o r k i n g of t h i s p l a n t h a t f r e q u e n t

A VISIT TO T H E W E S T I N D I E S . 7 3

ly a s h i g h a r e n t a s o n e h u n d r e d a n d t w e n t y do l la r s p e r a n n u m is o b t a i n e d for t h e m i s e r a b l e h u t s w h i c h t h e y o c c u p y .

W h e n any. fall s ick a n d c a n n o t go o u t to w o r k t h e y a r e c h a r g e d for n o n - a t t e n d a n c e a t t he i r p o s t s f r o m t e n to t h i r t y c e n t s , a t t h e o p t i o n of t he e m p l o y e r ; a n d w h e n a b l e to r e n e w t h e i r l a b o r the i r w a g e s a r e w i t h h e l d u n t i l t h e fine is p a i d .

T h e s e i m p o s i t i o n s w e r e s t a t e d , u p o n g o o d a u t h o r i t y , a s a m o n g t h e c a u s e s w h i c h h a v e p r e v e n t e d t h e success of e m a n c i p a t i o n o n th i s , a s o n o t h e r I s l a n d s .

F r o m e n q u i r i e s m a d e , w e f o u n d tha t t h e v a l u e of p r o p e r t y is g r e a t l y a d v a n c e d f r o m w h a t it w a s r a t e d five o r s i x y e a r s before t h e d a t e of e m a n c i p a t i o n — s a l e s h a v i n g b e e n m a d e a t d o u b l e t h e f o r m e r p r i c e s .

T h e p o p u l a t i a n of t h i s I s l a n d h a s no t v a r i e d m u c h for t h e las t o n e h u n d r e d a n d s i x t y y e a r s . I n 1675 t h e w h i t e s n u m b e r e d fifty t h o u s a n d , a n d t h e c o l o r e d s e v e n t y - f i v e t h o u s a n d . W h e n J a m a i c a w a s c o n q u e r e d a n d a n n e x e d to t h e E n g l i s h c r o w n a l a r g e n u m b e r e m i g r a t e d t h i t h e r . W i t h th i s d e c r e a s e of i ts p o p u l a t i o n w a s a l so e x p e r i e n c e d a c o n s i d e r a b l e fa l l ing off in its t r a d e ; b u t t h e p o p u l a t i o n a g a i n i n c r e a s e d t h r o u g h t h e n a t u r a l m e a n s a n d t h e s l a v e t r a d e f r o m A f r i c a , a s w e l l a s t h a t w h i c h w a s c a r r i e d o n b e t w e e n t h e E n g l i s h a n d t h e n e i g h b o r i n g F r e n c h I s l a n d s .

A l a r g e n u m b e r of n a t i v e B a r b a d i a n s a r e n o w h e l d in s l a v e r y on those I s l a n d s w h o w e r e so ld a s h o r t t i m e p r e v i o u s t o , a n d in a n t i c i p a t i o n

7


of t h e a p p r e n t i c e s h i p s y s t e m . M a n y of t h e s e h a v e r e l a t i v e s l i v i n g in B a r b a d o s , — h u s b a n d s , w i v e s a n d c h i l d r e n , — w h i c h t h e c rue l a n d b a r b a r o u s s y s t e m of s l a v e r y h a d s e p a r a t e d . S h o u l d F r a n c e fo l low t h e e x a m p l e of E n g l a n d t h e r e wi l l b e m a n y h a p p y r e - u n i o n s .

A r e g i m e n t of so ld ie r s is r e g u l a r l y s t a t i o n e d u p o n th i s I s l a n d . B r i d g e t o w n is t h e d e p o t for t h e G o v e r n m e n t W e s t I n d i a S t e a m e r s , w h i c h a r e vesse l s of w a r , b u t a r e n o w u s e d for c a r r y i n g t h e m a i l s .

A v e r y efficient P o l i c e is k e p t u p b o t h i n t o w n a n d c o u n t r y . T h i s is m a d e u p of w h i t e a n d c o l o r e d , w h o r e c e i v e a m i l i t a r y t r a i n i n g . W e h a v e n o t w i t n e s s e d , s ince b e i n g o n t h e I s l a n d , n e e d for t h e i n t e r f e r e n c e of t h i s po l i ce . O n a n o c c a s i o n of o u r h o l d i n g a m e e t i n g i n t o w n , so l a r g e a c o n c o u r s e of p e o p l e a s s e m b l e d a s to fill t h e h o u s e a n d t h e s t r ee t for a c o n s i d e r a b l e d i s t a n c e . T h e po l i ce c a m e u p o n t h e g r o u n d w i t h a v i e w to p r e s e r v e o r d e r , a s t h e y s a i d , o r to p r e v e n t difficult ies, s h o u l d a n y occu r . P e r f e c t o r d e r , h o w e v e r , p r e v a i l e d u n t i l t h e m e e t i n g c losed ; a n d w h e n t h e p e o p l e w e r e r e q u e s t e d to d i s p e r s e t h e y d i d so in m u c h q u i e t u d e .

I t w a s c o n s i d e r e d b y m a n y a g r i e v a n c e t h a t t h i s po l i ce f r e q u e n t l y a p p e a r e d w h e n t h e r e w a s n o n e c e s s i t y for t he i r i n t e r f e r e n c e , a n d t h a t t h e y w e r e of ten t h e o r i g i n a t o r s of difficulties t h e m s e l v e s . I t w a s a l so c o n s i d e r e d b y m a n y t h a t s u c h a po l i ce h a d b e c o m e u n n e c e s s a r y s ince t h e d a t e of f r e e d o m .

W e v i s i t ed t h e M i c o schoo l s u n d e r t h e c a r e of


A l e x a n d e r S t r o n i c k , w h i c h afforded u s m u c h sa t i s fac t ion . I n t h e j u v e n i l e d e p a r t m e n t (so t e r m e d ) o n e h u n d r e d a n d t h i r t y b o y s a n d g i r l s w e r e t a u g h t , a n d a b o u t n i n e t y in t h e in fan t s choo l . T h e s e c h i l d r e n s e e m to e q u a l i n in t e l l i gence t h o s e of A n t i g u a , u n d e r t h e c a r e of o u r fr iend J o h n Mi l l e r . T h e i r p r o g r e s s i n l i t e r a r y k n o w l e d g e w a s c r e d i t a b l e to t h e m a n d t h e i r i n s t r u c t o r s . T h e p l a n of o r a l i n s t r u c t i o n is p r a c t i s e d , b u t in a different m a n n e r f rom t h e A n t i g u a s choo l s . T h e c h i l d r e n s i n g f r e q u e n t l y d u r i n g schoo l h o u r s s h o r t h y m n s s u i t e d to t h e i r y o u t h f u l u n d e r s t a n d i n g s , w i t h t h e s e v e r a l a r i t h m e t i c a l t ab le s .

A b o u t f ive h u n d r e d a n d s i x t y c h i l d r e n a r e t a u g h t b y t h i s c h a r i t y i n t h e s e v e r a l s choo l s u p o n th i s I s l a n d . T h o m a s B i l b y , t h e p r i n c i p a l s u p e r i n t e n d e n t of t h i s s ec t ion , i n f o r m s , t h a t t h e H o m e G o v e r n m e n t a i d e d l a s t y e a r t o t h e a m o u n t of s e v e n t e e n t h o u s a n d p o u n d s .

T h e s u p e r i n t e n d e n t s of t h e s e schoo l s a r e p r e p a r i n g t he i r o w n b o o k s , a n d h a v e l a t e l y i s sued t h r e e w h i c h a p p e a r s u i t a b l e for c h i l d r e n . T h e s c h o l a r s a r e i n t e n d e d to b e e d u c a t e d f ree f rom a n y s e c t a r i a n b i a s . T h i s f e a t u r e w o u l d b e o n e of i ts g r e a t e s t e x c e l l e n c i e s if ful ly or p r o p e r l y c a r r i e d o u t ; b u t it is d o u b t f u l if it is d o n e , a s t h e t e a c h e r s t a k e t h e l i b e r t y to g i v e t h e i r o w n v i e w s to t h e c h i l d r e n , a n d wi l l be m o s t l ike ly to u s e t h e i n f luence t h e y h a v e to a t t a c h t h e m to t h e i r o w n sect .

A n e d u c a t i o n c l e a r of s e c t a r i a n b i a s w o u l d p r o v e a b l e s s i n g of i n c a l c u l a b l e v a l u e to t h e s e h i t h e r t o e n s l a v e d p e o p l e . C o u l d t h e y b e t r a i n -


ed a n d i n s t r u c t e d in t h e m o r a l p r e c e p t s a n d r e q u i s i t i o n s of t h e g o s p e l , — w h i c h a r e p la in a n d s i m p l e w h e n d i s c o n n e c t e d f rom t h e a b s t r u s e t h e o l o g y of t h e a g e , — a t t h e s a m e t i m e t h e y a r e a c q u i r i n g l i t e r a r y i n s t r u c t i o n , t h e y w o u l d b e fi t ted for a c t i v e life, a n d e s c a p e t h a t m e n t a l b o n d a g e to pr ies tc raf t , to w h i c h m a n y a r e n o w s u b j e c t e d .

I n a c o m m u n i t y w h e r e " p r i e s t s b e a r r u l e b y t h e i r m e a n s " w e m a y e x p e c t to find o p p o s i t i o n t o e v e r y t h i n g l ike a n a p p r o a c h to t h a t r e l i g ious l i b e r t y w h i c h e n f r a n c h i s e s t h e h u m a n m i n d , a n d confe r s u p o n it t h e p r i v i l e g e of t h i n k i n g a n d a c t i n g for i tself in m a t t e r s of r e l i g ion . H e n c e w e find th i s c l ass s t r e n u o u s l y o p p o s i n g t h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t of t h e s e schoo l s .

T h e L o r d B i s h o p ( a s h e is ca l l ed ) of t h e E n g l i s h C h u r c h h a s h i s r e s i d e n c e on th i s I s l a n d , a n d f rom h i m t h e y h a v e m e t w i t h c o n s i d e r a b l e o p p o s i t i o n . H e te l ls t h e m t h a t t h e c l e r g y a r e sworn to m a i n t a i n t he i r confess ions a n d c a t e c h i s m s , a n d t h e y c a n n o t s u p p o r t o r e n c o u r a g e schoo l s in w h i c h t h e y a r e n o t t a u g h t .

A n a d u l t school is a l so k e p t in t h e e v e n i n g , t w i c e in t h e w e e k , w h i c h is w e l l a t t e n d e d . T h e a d u l t s g e n e r a l l y l e a r n to r e a d in t w e l v e m o n t h s , w h i c h is a b o u t t he l imit of t he i r d e s i r e s : k n o w i n g th is m u c h t h e y c o n c l u d e t h e y c a n i m p r o v e t h e m s e l v e s .

T h e social i n t e r c o u r s e on th i s I s l a n d b e t w e e n t h e c o l o r e d a n d w h i t e p o p u l a t i o n is n o t v e r y e x t e n s i v e , a s t he p r e j u d i c e s f o rme r ly e n g e n d e r e d r e m a i n w i t h o u t m u c h c h a n g e . T h e w h i t e s , n u m b e r i n g a b o u t t w e n t y t h o u s a n d , k e e p v e r y


m u c h w i t h i n t h e i r o w n c i rc le , s e p a r a t e f rom t h e c o l o r e d c lasses . T h i s d o e s n o t r e m o v e t h e feeli n g s of j e a l o u s y c o n s e q u e n t u p o n t h e c o n d i t i o n of s l a v e r y , a n d w e the re fo re find t h a t h e a r t b u r n i n g s sti l l ex i s t .

T i m e , w e c a n b e l i e v e , w i l l w o r k a c h a n g e for t h e b e t t e r . W e m e t w i t h s e v e r a l w e a l t h y a n d i n t e l l i gen t c o l o r e d m e n w h o w o u l d a d o r n a n y circle i n soc ie ty . T o w a r d s s u c h a s t h e s e t h e r e is b u t l i t t le p r e j u d i c e felt, a n d c o n s e q u e n t l y t h e y r ise to s t a t i o n s of e m i n e n c e , a n d r e c e i v e i m p o r t a n t s t a t i o n s b o t h u n d e r t h e G o v e r n m e n t a n d in t h e C h u r c h .

First month 30th.—This a f t e r n o o n w e t o o k p a s s a g e in a l a r g e sail b o a t , u s e d a s a l i g h t e r for t h e c o n v e y a n c e of s u g a r , & c , for S p e i g h t s t o w n , w h i c h is a b o u t t w e l v e m i l e s d i s t a n t f r o m B r i d g e t o w n . T w o h o u r s b r o u g h t u s t o o u r d e s t i n a t i o n , b u t n o t to a h o m e , a s t h e l a n d l a d y of t h e o n l y b o a r d i n g - h o u s e in t h e t o w n r e f u s e d u s a c c o m m o d a t i o n s ; i n c o n s e q u e n c e of w h i c h w e h a d to s e a r c h for q u a r t e r s . A f t e r s o m e c o n s i d e r a b l e t i m e s p e n t , e x c i t i n g i n t h e i n t e r i m m u c h c u r i o u s s p e c u l a t i o n a m o n g the p e o p l e , w e w e r e v e r y k i n d l y f u r n i s h e d w i t h r o o m s b y R i c h a r d M a p p , a v e r y w o r t h y y o u n g co lo red m a n , a p r o v i s i o n d e a l e r . T h e u s e of h i s p a r l o r w a s s u b s e q u e n t l y offered for o u r h o l d i n g a m e e t i n g , w h i c h w e a c c e p t e d a n d h a d a l a r g e a n d s a t i s f a c t o r y o p p o r t u n i t y . W e a lso h a d a n i n t e r e s t i n g m e e t i n g o n t h e e v e n i n g of F i r s t - d a y , in t h e M e t h o d i s t C h a p e l , a t w h i c h m o s t of t h e a d u l t c i t i z e n s w e r e p r e s e n t .

S o m e i n t e r e s t i n g re l ics of t h e S o c i e t y of 7*


F r i e n d s exis t n e a r t h i s t o w n . T h e y o n c e h a d a m e e t i n g h o u s e h e r e , h u t n o t r a c e s a r e n o w to be s e e n . T h e a n c i e n t p l a c e of b u r i a l is still ca l l e d " Q u a k e r ' s M e e t i n g . " I t c o n t a i n s a b o u t t h r e e -f o u r t h s of a n a c r e a n d is enc losed b y a s u b s t a n t i a l w a l l of co ra l r o c k , still in a g o o d s t a t e of p r e s e r v a t i o n . W e w a l k e d ou t to th i s p l a c e , a n d s p e n t a n h o u r in e n d e a v o r i n g to d e c y p h e r s o m e of t h e m e m o r i a l s of t h e d e a d , b e i n g a n u m b e r of s i m p l e s t o n e s , on w h i c h w e r e e n g r a v e d t h e n a m e s of t h e d e c e a s e d , a n d a s h o r t e u l o g y in p r o s e . O n o n e of t h e s e a n c i e n t m o n u m e n t s , a v e r y l o n g e p i t a p h w a s e n g r a v e n , b u t t i m e h a d so n e a r l y effaced it , t h a t w e w e r e o n l y a b l e to r e a d t h e c o n c l u s i o n ; it w a s a s f o l l o w s : " w h i c h h e k n e w to b e t he g u i d e , l i gh t , a n d t r u t h , w h i c h l e a d s to s a l v a t i o n . D ied N i n t h m o n t h 1 7 t h , 1 6 7 3 , a g e d 5 4 y e a r s . " T h i s w a s t h e o n l y a n c i e n t d a t e w e c o u l d d i s t inc t ly r e a d . W e w e r e i n f o r m e d t h a t t h e L o r d B i s h o p w a s t r y i n g to ge t th i s g r o u n d a n d o t h e r b u r i a l p l a c e s of F r i e n d s , o n th i s I s l a n d , in h i s p o s s e s s i o n , t h a t t h e y m i g h t b e consecrated, a f ter w h i c h h i s m i n i s t e r s c o u l d p e r f o r m fune ra l s e r v i c e in t h e m .

F r i e n d s f o r m e r l y h a d five m e e t i n g h o u s e s o n t h i s I s l a n d ; t h e m e m b e r s a t t a c h e d to t he soc i e t y w e r e a t o n e t i m e v e r y n u m e r o u s . W h e n G e o r g e F o x v i s i t ed th i s c o l o n y in 1 6 8 1 , h e p u b l ic ly a n d p r i v a t e l y l a b o r e d in t h e c a u s e of suffe r ing h u m a n i t y ; a n d u r g e d u p o n t h o s e w h o h e l d s l a v e s , t h a t it w a s t h e i r d u t y to t r e a t t h e m w i t h k i n d n e s s a n d m e r c y , a n d to g i v e t h e m the i r f reed o m in d u e t i m e , d e c l a r i n g t h a t t h e y w e r e t h e c o m m o n objec t s of s a l v a t i o n , a n d s h o u l d b e


t r e a t e d a s t h e offspr ing of o n e u n i v e r s a l F a t h e r . W i t h s u c h c o n s i d e r a t i o n s a s t h e s e , h e t a u g h t t h a t m o r a l a n d r e l i g ious i n s t r u c t i o n s h o u l d h e e q u a l l y e x t e n d e d to t h e s l a v e , a s to t h e m a s t e r . H i s is t h e p r a i s e of h a v i n g first a t t e m p t e d , a m i d s t o b l o q u y a n d suf fer ing , to p r e a c h t h e G o s p e l in t h i s I s l a n d to t h e p o o r A f r i c a n s l a v e .

I n s t e a d of l i s t en ing to t h e s e h a r m l e s s s u g g e s t i o n s , a n d - p e r m i t t i n g t h e o p e r a t i o n of C h r i s t i a n p r i n c i p l e s to effect a c u r e for t h e i n c r e a s i n g ev i l s o f s l a v e r y , t h e a d v o c a t e s of t h e s y s t e m r a i s e d a t o r r e n t of o p p o s i t i o n a g a i n s t h i m a n d h i s f r i ends , c h a r g i n g t h e m w i t h e x c i t i n g t h e s l a v e s to i n s u r r e c t i o n , a n d s o w i n g t h e s e e d s of d i ssa t i s fac t ion a n d d i s t ru s t . I n a l e t t e r a d d r e s s e d to t h e G o v e r n o r of t h e I s l a n d , G e o r g e F o x ca l l s t h o s e c h a r g e s a " w i c k e d s l a n d e r " o n t h e soc i e ty .

W e l l sa t isf ied t h a t t h e i n c u l c a t i o n of s o u n d r e l i g ious p r i n c i p l e s , w i t h t h e r e s t o r a t i o n of l e g i t i m a t e r i g h t s , w a s n o t o n l y a d u t y , b u t c o n s t i t u t ed t h e g r e a t e s t s a f e g u a r d of t h e p e a c e a n d h a p p i n e s s of t h e c o l o n y , t h e s e e a r l y p i o n e e r s in t h e w o r k of e m a n c i p a t i o n , a r d u o u s l y l a b o r e d to m e l i o r a t e t h e c o n d i t i o n of t he i r f e l low m e n , w h o w e r e suf fer ing u n d e r a c r u e l b o n d a g e . T h e o p p o s i t i o n to t he i r m e a s u r e s w a s so s t r o n g , t h a t it l ed to r e p e a t e d p r o h i b i t o r y l a w s , s o m e o f w h i c h posses s t h e h a r s h e s t f e a t u r e s of p e r s e c u t i o n .

B y a n e x a m i n a t i o n of t h e C o l o n i a l R e c o r d s , w e d i s c o v e r e d t h a t , in 1 6 7 6 , a l a w w a s p a s s e d f o r b i d d i n g F r i e n d s t a k i n g t h e co lo r ed p e o p l e t o p l a c e s of p u b l i c w o r s h i p ; a n d in 1 6 7 8 , a l a w


w a s a l so p a s s e d , m a k i n g it a p e n a l offence for a m e m b e r of o u r soc ie ty to p r e a c h a t a p u b l i c m e e t i n g . T h e p r e a m b l e s to t h e s e e n a c t m e n t s g o to s h o w , t h a t t h e free sp i r i t of Q u a k e r i s m w a s i n i m i c a l to t h e s y s t e m of s l a v e r y , a n d t h a t b o t h c o u l d n o t b e t o l e r a t e d i n t h e s a m e c o m m u n i t y .

S u c h w a s t h e c u r r e n t o f o p p o s i t i o n a g a i n s t w h i c h o u r u n o f f e n d i n g fo re fa the r s h a d to c o n t e n d . T h e efforts of t h e different sec t s , w h o a t t e m p t e d to p r o v e t h a t t h e A f r i c a n m i n d w a s s u s c e p t i b l e of r e l i g i o u s a n d m o r a l r e f i n e m e n t , w e r e l o n g a n d o p e n l y o p p o s e d , a n d t h e i r b e n e v o l e n t e x e r t i o n s w e r e n a r r o w e d d o w n to a v e r y l i m i t e d s p h e r e , u n t i l t h e ac t of e m a n c i p a t i on i n 1 8 3 6 . H a p p i l y , a b e t t e r d a y h a s d a w n e d u p o n t h i s p e o p l e . Ef for t s a r e n o w b e i n g m a d e to e d u c a t e t h e m , a n d to o p e n a p a t h for t h e m to a h i g h e r r a n k a n d s t a t i o n a m o n g then-fe l low m e n ,

Second month 5th.—Visited a n o t h e r of t h e M i c o s choo l s , in B r i d g e t o w n , a t w h i c h o n e h u n d r e d a n d for ty c h i l d r e n w e r e r e c e i v i n g t h e r u d i m e n t s of a n e d u c a t i o n .

It w a s c o n d u c t e d b y a m a n a n d w o m a n t e a c h e r , t h e l a t t e r a co lo r ed w o m a n . T h e e x a m i n a t i o n of t h e p u p i l s w h i l e w e w e r e p r e s e n t , g a v e sa t i s f ac to ry p r o o f of t h e t e a c h e r s ' c a p a c i t y to i n s t r u c t t h e m , a n d of t h e i r r e a d i n e s s to l e a r n .

T h i s e v e n i n g w e h a d a m e e t i n g a t G r e e n P a r k , w h e r e a l a r g e c o m p a n y of p e o p l e a s s e m b l e d . I t w a s h e l d a t a n u n f i n i s h e d d w e l l i n g h o u s e , w h i c h w a s offered for t he p u r p o s e . T h e g r e a t e r p a r t of t h e c o n g r e g a t i o n w e r e o b l i g e d to


r e m a i n o u t s i d e , b u t w i t h i n h e a r i n g . T h e m o r e w e m i n g l e w i t h t h e p o o r a n d i l l i t e ra te p e o p l e of t h e s e I s l a n d s , ( a n d m a n y of o u r m e e t i n g s h a v e b e e n chief ly c o m p o s e d of t h e m ) w e a r e m a d e t h a n k f u l t h a t o u r lot h a s b e e n cas t a m o n g t h e m . T h e d e e p a t t e n t i o n t h e y m a n i f e s t o n all o c c a s i o n s — a n d the i r c o n t i n u a l e x p r e s s i o n s of g r a t i t u d e , t h a t w e h a d b e e n led a m o n g t h e m to l a b o r in t h e l o v e of t h e G o s p e l , g i v e e v i d e n c e t h a t it h a s b e e n a p p r e c i a t e d b y t h e m .

L a t e in t h e e v e n i n g t h e r e w a s a t o t a l ec l ipse of t h e m o o n . T h e a t m o s p h e r e w a s r e m a r k a b l y c l e a r , a n d t h e w h o l e firmament d i s p l a y e d a b e a u t y , f r e q u e n t l y s e e n in th i s c l i m a t e , b u t se l d o m in o u r o w n . T h e m o o n p r e s e n t e d a v e r y s i n g u l a r a p p e a r a n c e ; i ts d i s k , d u r i n g the w h o l e of t he ec l ip se , a p p e a r e d a l m o s t of t h e co lo r of b l o o d .

S i n c e b e i n g o n th i s I s l a n d , w e h a v e h a d d i v e r s o p p o r t u n i t i e s for i n q u i r y , a l t h o u g h o u r t r a v e l l i n g h a s b e e n l imi ted . M u c h s a m e n e s s e x i s t s a s to t h e m a n a g e m e n t of e s t a t e s . T h e w o r k i n g of t h e free s y s t e m is c o n s i d e r e d f a v o r a b l e . T h e p o p u l a r s e n t i m e n t is in its f avo r , a n d dissa t is f ied i n d i v i d u a l s a r e ca re fu l in e x p r e s s i o n a g a i n s t it. J u d g i n g f rom s o m e r e m a r k s w e o c c a s i o n a l l y h e a r d , w e b e l i e v e d , h o w e v e r , s o m e of t h e p l a n t e r s w e r e n o t so w e l l sat isf ied n o w , a s w h e n t h e y h e l d t h e i r f e l low men a s p r o p e r t y . I t is difficu l t for t h e m to s u b m i t p a t i e n t l y , a n d s u c h a s t h e s e wi l l b e v e r y l ike ly to o p p r e s s the i r l a b o r e r s . P r o p e r t y is m u c h m o r e v a l u a b l e n o w , t h a n d u r i n g t h e t i m e of s l a v e r y , a n d th i s c i r c u m s t a n c e wi l l h a v e a t e n d e n c y to r econc i l e


t h e m to t h e c h a n g e . O n t h e g r e a t sub jec t of e m a n c i p a t i o n , t h e p e c u n i a r y a d v a n t a g e t h a t m a y a c c r u e to t h e p a r t i e s i n t e r e s t e d in h o l d i n g t h e i r fe l low m e n in b o n d a g e , m o s t l y c l a i m s c o n s i d e r a t i o n , a n d not t h e good t h a t m u s t d e v o l v e u p o n t he g r e a t e r n u m b e r w h o h a v e b e e n r e s to red to t he i r r i g h t s .

O w i n g to s e v e r e d r o u g h t , t h e c r o p of s u g a r w i l l b e Tight, in c o m p a r i s o n w i t h f o r m e r y e a r s . T h i s fact w i l l , n o d o u b t , b e c i r c u l a t e d i n o t h e r c o u n t r i e s , a s a n e v i d e n c e of t h e c o n s e q u e n c e s r e s u l t i n g f rom f r e e d o m ; b u t e v e n t h o s e w h o w e r e f o r m e r l y t h e a d v o c a t e s of s l a v e r y in B a r b a d o s , w o u l d n o t n o w a d m i t it.

I n 1831 th i s I s l a n d w a s v i s i t ed b y o n e of t h o s e v i o l e n t t o r n a d o e s , c o m m o n to t rop i ca l r e g i o n s , w h i c h d e s t r o y e d , t o g e t h e r w i t h h u n d r e d s o f b u i l d i n g s , n e a r l y al l t he t r ee s u p o n t h e I s l a n d . W h e r e v e r w e g o , w e s ee t r a c e s still r e m a i n i n g , of th i s s a d c a l a m i t y . B u t f ew forest t r ee s a r e to b e s e e n i n t h e c o u n t r y ; a n d i n t h e t o w n s , w h e r e t h e d e s o l a t i o n w a s m o r e c o n c e n t r a t e d , t h e n u m e r o u s r u i n e d b u i l d i n g s , a n d d e s e r t e d w a l l s , r e m a i n a s m e m o r i a l s of th i s afflicting s c o u r g e .

W e h a d n u m e r o u s m e e t i n g s i n a n d a r o u n d B r i d g e t o w n , a n d o n e a t S h a r o n , a M o r a v i a n s e t t l e m e n t , a b o u t five m i l e s d i s t a n t . W i t h a l l t h e s e o p p o r t u n i t i e s w e felt w e l l sat isf ied. O u r r e w a r d , w a s t h e r e w a r d of p e a c e ; t h e c o n s c i o u s n e s s of h a v i n g d i s c h a r g e d o u r d u t y , a n d i n so d o i n g , to feel t h a t o u r l a b o r s h a d t h e Salut a r y effect to e n c o u r a g e t h e h o n e s t i n q u i r e r a f te r t r u t h , in t h e w a y of w e l l - d o i n g .

H a v i n g c o n c l u d e d o u r s e r v i c e s u p o n th i s


I s l a n d , w e m a d e a n a r r a n g e m e n t w i t h t h e c a p t a i n of a s m a l l s c h o o n e r , to c o n v e y u s to T r i n i d a d . W h e n r e a d y to d e p a r t , a n u m b e r of o u r f r i ends c a m e to b i d u s f a r e w e l l ; a m o n g t h e s e w e r e m a n y of t h e s i m p l e a n d h o n e s t - h e a r t e d l a b o r e r s , w h o felt, w e c o u l d b e l i e v e , a s i n c e r e a t t a c h m e n t , a n d r e g r e t t e d o u r d e p a r t u r e . W e w e n t o n b o a r d a b o u t 2 o ' c l o c k in t h e a f t e r n o o n , a n d h a v i n g a p l e a s a n t b r e e z e , w e r e s o o n l e a v i n g B a r b a d o s .

Second month 13th.—The h i g h l a n d s of T o b a g o a r e in s igh t . T h e y a r e p i c t u r e s q u e a n d b e a u t i f u l . A b o u t 4 o ' c l o c k i n t h e a f t e r n o o n , t h e m o u n t a i n s of T r i n i d a d , c o v e r e d w i t h a b l u e mi s t , w e r e v i s ib le , a n d be fo re n i g h t c losed u p o n u s , w e h a d so n e a r e d t h e m a s to d i s c e r n t h e t r e e s u p o n t he i r s ides , a n d t h e s u r f b r e a k i n g a t t h e i r b a s e s . A b o u t m i d n i g h t , w e p a s s e d t h e B o c a s , e n t e r i n g t h e b e a u t i f u l g u l f of P a r i a , a n d e a r l y o n t h e m o r n i n g of t h e 1 4 t h , w e a n c h o r e d off P o r t of S p a i n .

A s w e a p p r o a c h e d t h e I s l a n d , w e d i s c o v e r e d t h a t i ts m o u n t a i n l a n d s afford de l igh t fu l s c e n e r y . T h e d e e p g o r g e s c u t t i n g t h e r i d g e s i n t o i n s u l a t e d hi l l s , w h i c h , r i s i n g s ide b y s ide , c l o t h e d i n c o n t i n u a l v e r d u r e , p r e s e n t a p r o s p e c t n o t of ten w i t n e s s e d , e v e n a m o n g t h e s e W e s t e r n I s les . W e w e r e for ty- four h o u r s in m a k i n g th i s v o y a g e ; c o n s i d e r e d a s h o r t p a s s a g e , b u t sufficiently l o n g for c o m f o r t , a s o u r vesse l p r o v e d to b e e x c e e d i n g l y f i l thy, a n d s w a r m i n g w i t h v e r m i n . T h e s e p r i v a t i o n s , v o y a g e r s b e t w e e n t h e W e s t I n d i a I s l a n d s h a v e t o u n d e r g o , if t h e y a r e ob l i ged to t a k e u p w i t h t h e a c c o m m o d a t i o n s offered b y t h e s m a l l I s l a n d craf t .


T R I N I D A D .

O n F i r s t - d a y m o r n i n g , t h e 1 4 t h of S e c o n d m o n t h , w e l a n d e d in P o r t of S p a i n . T h i s is o n e of t h e finest t o w n s in t h e W e s t I n d i e s , t h e s t r ee t s a r e laid off a t r i g h t a n g l e s — h a v i n g good s ide w a l k s and m a n y of t h e m beaut i fu l ly s h a d e d w i t h t r ee s ; a de l igh t fu l a v e n u e of l a rge t r e e s nea r t h e b a y , is fenced in and is used as a p r o m e n a d e b y t h e c i t izens . T h e t o w n is n e a r l y sur r o u n d e d b y v e r y h i g h h i l l s c o v e r e d w i t h a w i l d e r n e s s of p e r p e t u a l v e r d u r e .

W e found an e x c e l l e n t b o a r d i n g house k e p t b y C a t h e r i n e B u r t o n , a co lo red w o m a n . D u r i n g a w a l k in t he a f te rnoon w e w e r e accos ted b y se v e r a l co lo red p e o p l e , w h o des i r ed to k n o w if w e had c o m e from t h e U n i t e d S ta tes . T h e y inf o r m e d us t h a t t h e y had e m i g r a t e d to th i s c o l o n y from P e n n s y l v a n i a , and M a r y l a n d . A t a m e e t i n g w e he ld in t h e e v e n i n g , a l a rge n u m b e r of t he se A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s , w e r e p r e s e n t , t h e y h a d h e a r d of o u r a r r i v a l , and s e e m e d d e l i g h t e d to see us .

T h e m e r c h a n t s and p l a n t e r s s e e m r e a d y to p r o m o t e t h e object of o u r vis i t . W i l l i a m H . B u r n l e y and J o h n L o s h to w h o m w e had l e t t e r s , offering to m a k e w a y for us to v i s i t t h e different p a r t s of t h e I s l and .

A f t e r h o l d i n g severa l m e e t i n g s in and a bou t P o r t of Spa in , we conc luded to v i s i t N a p a r i m a , and L a B r e a , a n d on the m o r n i n g of Second m o n t h 1 6 t h , w e left P o r t of Spa in in c o m p a n y w i t h W i l l i a m I I . B u r n l e y , G e o r g e R a m s a y , and seve ra l o t h e r p r o p r i e t o r s of es ta tes . H a v i n g a fine


breeze w e soon passed d o w n the coast to P o i n t au P i e r r e , and l anded at P l e a s a n c e , t h e es ta te of G e o r g e R a m s a y . T h i s p l an ta t ion l ies on t h e Gulf of P a r i a . T h e manufac tu re of sugar is n o w go ing on ; s ix t een squa re r i gged vesse ls a re n o w l a y i n g off th i s po in t and N a p a r i m a , five mi l e s be l o w , w a i t i n g for cargoes . W e w a l k e d to t h e sugar w o r k s after l a n d i n g ; t h e w o r k m e n w e r e c los ing for t h e d a y . T h e y do no t n o w , as t h e y did d u r i n g s l a v e r y , c o n t i n u e t he bo i l i ng d u r i n g the n igh t . A b o u t t h r e e h o g s h e a d s of sugar a r e m a d e in t he se w o r k s p e r d a y , t h e h o g s h e a d w e i g h i n g t w o thousand p o u n d s . T w o p u n c h e o n s of molasses of about o n e - h u n d r e d gal lons each , d ra in f rom t h e s e h o g s h e a d s . A d i s t i l l e ry is a t t a ched to a lmos t e v e r y bo i l ing house . T h i s e x t e n s i v e m a n u f a c t u r e of r u m is a d e p l o r a b l e c i r c u m s t a n c e . T h e l abo re r s ins is t u p o n h a v i n g it as a p a r t of t he i r w a g e s , and t h e c o n s e q u e n c e is , t h a t m a n y difficulties a re c o n t i n u a l l y o c c u r r i n g u p o n a lmos t e v e r y p l an ta t ion .

M o s t of t h e p r o p r i e t o r s professed a w i l l i ngnes s to r e l i n q u i s h d is t i l la t ion , p r o v i d e d t h e y could find a prof i table m e t h o d of d i s p o s i n g of t h e i r offal. T h e p r i n c i p l e in t h e case was no t a m a t t e r to c o n s i d e r . R u m is an a r t ic le r e a d i l y d i sposed of, and goes , to s o m e e x t e n t , to p a y e x p e n s e s ; w h i l e t h i s is t h e fact, i t wi l l no t soon be a b a n d o n e d . T h e use of a r d e n t sp i r i t s is cons ide r ed b y m a n y of t h e p l a n t e r s , as needful in th i s c l ima te , h e n c e w i n e s , and o t h e r l i quo r s a re used v e r y freely. T h i s e r r o n e o u s p rac t i ce of t h e e m p l o y e r , d i s qualifies h i m from o p p o s i n g t h e i r use b y t h e labo re r . T h u s d r u n k e n n e s s , and d e b a u c h e r y a r e

8


p e r p e t u a t e d . W e feel bound to m a k e a d e c i d e d s t and aga ins t t h i s d e m o r a l i s i n g c u s t o m , b r i n g i n g t h e subject in to v i e w f r e q u e n t l y u p o n occas ions of i n t r o d u c t i o n to o u r f r i e n d ' s h o u s e s , as t h e r e t h e d r i n k i n g usages a r e p r o p o s e d as t h e first act of hosp i t a l i t y . T h e idea of total ab s t i nence f rom a r d e n t sp i r i t s , & c , and r e m a i n i n h e a l t h , can sca rce ly be rea l i sed by t h e m .

T h i s is t h e d r y s e a s o n — s o c a l l e d — t h e y e a r b e i n g d iv ided in to w e t and d r y seasons . T h e w e a t h e r is n o w de l igh t fu l . H a v i n g f rom five to s ix m o n t h s of d r y w e a t h e r , t h e p l a n t e r s a r e e n a b led to m a k e u p t he i r c rops of sugar . T h e beg i n n i n g of c r o p , is abou t t h e first of t h e y e a r , l a s t ing un t i l t he last of F i f t h m o n t h . D u r i n g t h e d r y season , a l t h o u g h t e r m e d so , y e t fine s h o w e r s f r e q u e n t l y occur , w h i c h k e e p u p a l u x u r i a n t vege t a t i on . F r o m a r e c u r r e n c e of t h e w e t season ea r l i e r t h a n usua l , t h e c r o p is often l e s sened , t h e canes h a v i n g to be left g r o w i n g for a n o t h e r y e a r ; t h e y a re s o m e t i m e s t h r e e y e a r s o ld , before t h e y a r e cut .

A h o t s p r i n g issues from t h e s ide of a hil l nea r t h e m a n s i o n of o u r f r iend R a m s a y , affording a fine o p p o r t u n i t y for b a t h i n g . W h e n cold it i s exce l l en t d r i n k i n g w a t e r . A r i d e to S a v a n n a h G r a n d e , to t h e loca t ions of A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s , w a s p e c u l i a r l y p leasan t . T h e g r a n d e u r of a t r o p ica l forest is w i tnes sed on th i s r o u t e . T r e e s of i m m e n s e m a g n i t u d e a re seen w i t h t r u n k s c o v e r e d w i t h paras i t ic v e r d u r e . M a n y of t he se s i n g u l a r p l a n t s s h o o t i n g ou t c lus te r s of beautiful flowers— v i n e s d r o p p i n g from t o w e r i n g b r a n c h e s , s t and a r o u n d the se t r u n k s , l i ke p l an ted c o l u m n s , w i t h -


ou t a b r a n c h for s e v e n t y or e i g h t y feet in h e i g h t , a n d from t en to t w e l v e i n c h e s in d i ame te r . P a l m s of v a r i o u s k i n d s g r o w l u x u r i a n t l y , and amids t t h e r i ch a s semblage , t he B o i s I m m o r t e l l e , w i t h i t s c lus t e r s of o r ange -co lou red b lo s soms , s t ands u n r i v a l l e d . T h i s is also cal led " L e s M a r i e C a c o . " T h e M o t h e r of t h e C o a c o — a s in all t h e coaco p l an t a t i ons th i s beautiful t r e e is p l a n t ed for i ts s h a d e , as t h e coaco n e e d s s e c u r i t y f rom t h e s t r e n g t h of t h e s u n ' s r a y s . T h e nes t of t h e i n g e n i o u s co rn -b i rd h u n g p e n d a n t f rom m a n y b r a n c h e s , s ecu re f rom t h e m a r a u d i n g m o n k e y w h i c h a b o u n d s in t he se forests . O n s o m e es ta tes a h u n t e r is a l m o s t c o n s t a n t l y e m p l o y e d to p r o t ec t t h e canes f rom t h e d e p r e d a t i o n s of m o n k e y s and o t h e r an ima l s . T h e L a p p o , a species of h a r e , a r e n u m e r o u s , as also t h e P e c c a r y , o r w i l d h o g , w h i c h is t a k e n in a b u n d a n c e . T h e T i g e r - c a t is a n a t i v e , as is also t h e B o a C o n s t r i c t o r , w h i c h , w i t h o t h e r s e r p e n t s , is c o n s i d e r e d h a r m l e s s . P a r r o t s a r e n u m e r o u s .

S e v e r a l e m i g r a n t s f rom B a l t i m o r e , w e found m a k i n g r o a d s — o u r e n q u i r i e s as to t h e i r w e l f a r e , m e t w i t h t h e a n s w e r t h a t t h e y w e r e f avorab ly c i r c u m s t a n c e d , we l l satisfied w i t h t h e i r cond i t i on a n d fu tu r e p r o s p e c t s .

T h e y a re w e l l pa id for t he i r l abour , e a r n i n g f rom t w o to four do l la r s p e r d a y , h a v i n g u n d e r t a k e n t h e road b y con t rac t .

A t W i l l i a m s v i l l e , t h e es ta te of H e n r y S t e w a r t w e m e t w i t h a k i n d r e c e p t i o n . T h i s es ta te is o n e of t h e la rges t u n d e r cu l t i va t ion , in S o u t h N a p a r i m a , n e a r four h u n d r e d acres b e i n g n o w in cane . A s t h e e y e r a n g e d o v e r h i s e x t e n s i v e


fields, from ou r s ta t ion u p o n t h e ga l l e ry of h i s m a n s i o n , it appea red as t h o u g h an a l m o s t i n t e r m i n a b l e a m o u n t of labor w o u l d be r e q u i r e d to c o n v e r t t h e m in to sugar . H e e x p e c t s , h o w e v e r , if t h e season con t i nues favourab le , to b r i n g t h e w h o l e in to m a r k e t , m a k i n g abou t four h u n d r e d l a rge h o g s h e a d s .

H i s l abore r s w o r k w e l l ; at h i s sugar w o r k s a mos t l i ve ly scene was e x h i b i t e d , each o n e a p p e a r i n g to d o h i s p a r t w i t h g rea t r a p i d i t y and r e g u l a r i t y . A s team e n g i n e of e igh t ho r se p o w e r is used for g r i n d i n g — t w o sets of w o r k s a r e u p o n th i s es ta te . T h e s team is g e n e r a t e d b y coal , i m p o r t e d from E n g l a n d ; a l t hough w o o d is so a b u n d a n t , y e t t he e x p e n s e of cu t t i ng , & c , is g r e a t e r than i m p o r t i n g coal . T h e bagasse, o r p re s sed cane , is t h e usual fuel for bo i l ing suga r , and appea r s to a n s w e r t h e p u r p o s e we l l . A f t e r l o o k i n g o v e r t h e es ta te , w e m a d e a r r a n g e m e n t s for h o l d i n g a m e e t i n g , — r o d e o v e r to W i l l i a m T a y l o r ' s , w h o , w i th his wife , a F r e n c h w o m a n , r e c e i v e d us k i n d l y . W i l l i a m g ives a v e r y fav o u r a b l e v i e w of t h e w o r k i n g of free labor . T h e o n l y difficulty e x p e r i e n c e d u p o n th i s I s l and , is , tha t a sufficient n u m b e r of w o r k - p e o p l e c a n n o t be ob ta ined . F r o m th i s p lace w e r o d e on to B u o n - I n t e n t o t he es ta te of o u r f r iend G e o r g e R a m s a y . T h e c o u n t r y t h r o u g h w h i c h w e passed to -day is o n e of su rpa s s ing b e a u t y and fe r t i l i ty . T h e surface ro l l ing into hil l and da le , and c o v e r e d w i t h cane , p r e s e n t s a de l igh t fu l p ro spec t , and p r o m i s e s a p r o s p e r o u s a d v a n c e to the different m e m b e r s of th i s po r t ion of t h e c o l o n y .

B u o n - I n t e n t o is h i g h , and has a c o m m a n d i n g


p r o s p e c t for m i l e s , — t h e b e a u t y and fer t i l i ty of t h i s es ta te is p rove rb i a l . T h e sugar w o r k s w e r e in ope ra t ion . T h e g r i n d i n g is p e r f o r m e d b y m u l e s . M a n y of t h e cane-p ieces on th i s s e t t l e m e n t h a v e been p l an t ed for t w e n t y , t h i r t y , and e v e n for ty y e a r s . W h e n w e t a k e in to cons ide ra t i on t h a t t he p l a n t e r s of T o r t o l a , St . K i t t s , A n t i g u a , a n d B a r bados , h a v e to r e p l a n t a l m o s t e v e r y y e a r , w e can c o m p r e h e n d h o w m u c h t h e p l a n t e r s of T r i n idad h a v e t h e a d v a n t a g e o v e r t h e i r n e i g h b o r s , a n d t h e r e a s o n w h y t h e y a r e e n a b l e d to p a y t h e i r l a b o r e r s s u c h h i g h w a g e s , — F i f t y cen t s is g i v e n o n m o s t p l an t a t i ons for t h e t a s k — t w o t a s k s can b e a c c o m p l i s h e d w i t h ease . B e s i d e s t h e s e m o n e y w a g e s , s o m e r a t i o n s of m e a t , and fish a r e occas iona l ly g i v e n , a n d to t h e d i s a d v a n t a g e of b o t h p l a n t e r and l a b o r e r , t w o bo t t l e s of r u m p e r w e e k . T h e i r co t t age a n d g r o u n d s a re also furn i s h e d r e n t f ree , w i t h t h e usual p r i v i l e g e s of r a i s i n g p o u l t r y , &c. N o ag r i cu l tu r a l l abo re r s a r e b e t t e r pa id in a n y c o u n t r y , t h e i m m e n s e y i e l d of t h e i r soil e n a b l i n g t h e m to c o n t i n u e it .

R e t u r n i n g b y W i l l i a m T a y l o r ' s , w e s t e p p e d i n t o h i s sugar w o r k s , w h i c h w e r e also in full o p e r a t i o n , g r i n d i n g b y s t eam.

A n u m b e r of A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s a re loca ted on th i s p l an t a t i on . W i l l i a m s p e a k s wel l of t h e m . T h e y h a v e nea t co t tages of about t w e n t y - f o u r feet , b y four teen feet , d i v i d e d in to t w o r o o m s , w i t h a po r t i co o r ga l l e ry in f ront . T h e m e n a r e g e n e r a l l y wel l -sat isf ied, b u t t h e w o m e n a p p e a r unse t t l ed , d e s i r i n g to r e t u r n to t h e i r n a t i v e c o u n t r y .

O u r m e e t i n g in t he e v e n i n g w a s l a rge , and 8 *


sat isfactory. M a n y of t he old A m e r i c a n se t t l e r s w e r e p r e sen t , w h o had l ands g r a n t e d to t h e m in th i s n e i g h b o u r h o o d b y t h e B r i t i s h G o v e r n m e n t in e i g h t e e n - h u n d r e d and t w e l v e . T h e s e i n d i v i d u a l s , d u r i n g t h e w a r of t h a t p e r i o d , w e r e s laves in t h e S o u t h e r n S ta te s , and h a v i n g escaped from the i r m a s t e r s , p laced t h e m s e l v e s u n d e r t h e p ro tec t ion of A d m i r a l C o c h r a n . T h e y had an a l l owance of s ix teen acres for each p e r s o n . S o m e of t h e m appea red in te l l igen t , and m u c h conf idence was placed in t h e m b y S t e w a r t , t h o u g h in g e n e ra l t h e y h a v e no t sus ta ined t h e bes t of cha rac te r s . B u t w e mus t m a k e a l lowances for t h e m , as t h e i r o p p o r t u n i t i e s for i m p r o v e m e n t h a v e been e x c e e d i n g l y l imi ted : and free s e t t l e m e n t s , w e find, be fore e m a n c i p a t i o n , w e r e looked u p o n w i t h j e a l o u s y , and as in jur ious to s lave n e i g h b o r h o o d s .

T h e l abo r ing peop le on th i s I s land a r e con s i d e r a b l y b e h i n d t h e s a m e class in in t e l l igence in e i t h e r of t h e B r i t i s h I s l ands w e h a v e v i s i t ed . Schoo l s , a re n o w b e i n g es tab l i shed in diffe ren t p a r t s of t he co lony . M u c h less a t t en t ion has been paid to educa t ion in th i s , t han in t h e o t h e r co lonies . O w i n g to t h e d i v e r s i t y of languages s p o k e n , m o r e difficulty has o c c u r r e d , but t he d e t e r m i n a t i o n to i n s t ruc t o n l y in t h e E n g l i s h , will ope ra t e favourab ly . T h e different r e l ig ious bod ies t h a t have been so e a r n e s t l y and successful ly e x e r t i n g t h e m s e l v e s to i n s t ruc t t h e y o u n g in o t h e r I s l a n d s , h a v e been d o i n g bu t l i t t le in th i s . T h e R o m a n Ca tho l i c pe r suas ion is t h e la rges t b o d y , and t h e y appea r to be n e a r l y i n e r t on th i s i m p o r t a n t subject .

O u r m e e t i n g th i s e v e n i n g was he ld in t he p lan-


t a t ion school h o u s e . T h i s school h a s an ave rage a t t e n d a n c e of abou t t w e n t y s c h o l a r s .

T h e n i g h t s a r e r e m a r k a b l y coo l for so s o u t h e r n a l a t i t u d e . A b l a n k e t w o u l d h a v e b e e n a c o m f o r t a b l e a d d i t i o n to o u r b e d s . T h e h o u s e of o u r f r iend is r a t h e r m o r e o p e n t h a n t h o s e w e h a v e b e e n a c c u s t o m e d to s l eep in . B e i n g t h a t c h e d w i t h t h e l e a f of t h e C a r o t t e -p a l m , a v e r y free c i r cu l a t i on of a i r is p e r m i t t e d .

Second month 1 8 t h . — C a l l e d a t W i l l i a m T a y l o r ' s , w h o a c c o m p a n i e d u s to S a v a n n a h G r a n d e , or t h e M i s s i o n , a s it is m o s t f r e q u e n t l y t e r m e d . T h e C a t h o l i c s h a d a m i s s i o n a r y e s t a b l i s h m e n t i n th i s s e t t l e m e n t for m a n y y e a r s . W e t r a v e l l e d t h r o u g h a l a r g e p o r t i o n of t h e q u a r t e r . M a n y of t h e e m i g r a n t s of 1 8 1 2 a r e s e t t l ed u p o n i t . T h e y a p p e a r p e a c e f u l l y i m p r o v i n g t he i r s m a l l f a r m s , s o m e of w h i c h w e r e u n d e r fair c u l t i v a t i o n . A t M a t i l d a , a n e s t a t e o n t h e b o r d e r s of t h e w i l d e r n e s s , w e s t o p p e d a n d i n q u i r e d in to t h e c o n d i t i o n of s o m e e m i g r a n t s f rom N e w J e r s e y , w h o a p p e a r e d d i s sat isf ied w i t h t h e i r l o c a t i o n . T h e i r c o t t a g e s w e r e n e a t , a n d t h e o r d e r w i t h i n o n e , i n p a r t i c u l a r , w a s a n e x a m p l e t o t h e p r o p r i e t o r , w h o s e m a n s i o n e x h i b i t e d s ad neg lec t . W e u n d e r s t o o d t h a t t h e l a b o r e r s d i d t he i r p a r t g e n e r a l l y to sa t i s fac t ion . T h e soil of t h i s e s t a t e is r e m a r k a b l y fer t i le .

A t a n e i g h b o r i n g e s t a t e ca l l ed W o o d f o r d a l e , o w n e d b y J o h n L o s h , w e f o u n d s e v e r a l f ami l i es f rom B a l t i m o r e , w h o a r e w e l l sa t isf ied, a n d h a v e n o w i s h to r e t u r n to t h e i r n a t i v e c o u n t r y . T h e A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s , in m a n y i n s t a n c e s ,


h a v e b e e n a n a d v a n t a g e to t h e e s t a t e s w h e r e o n t h e y a r e l o c a t e d . T h e i r s u p e r i o r s t e a d y n e s s of m a n n e r , s o b r i e t y , a n d g e n e r a l d e c o r u m , h a v e h a d a v e r y s a l u t a r y in f luence u p o n t h e l a t e l y e m a n c i p a t e d l a b o r e r . I t w a s a sa t i s fac t ion t o find t h e m s c a t t e r e d , a s t h e y a r e , i n different s ec t ions , w h e r e t h e i r i n d u s t r i o u s , m o r e c l e a n l y , a s w e l l a s r e l i g ious h a b i t s , a r e e x a m p l e s for i m i t a t i o n . O n th i s e s t a t e w e m e t w i t h C h a r l e s W i l l i a m s , a c o l o r e d m a n f r o m B a l t i m o r e , i n w h o m m u c h c o n f i d e n c e is p l a c e d . H e is n o w r e - o p e n i n g a l a r g e c o a c o a n d coffee p l a n t a t i o n o n s h a r e s w i t h t h e o w n e r .

A t F r i e n d s h i p , a n e s t a t e of H e n r y S t e w a r t ' s , a l a r g e n u m b e r of A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s a r e l o c a t e d . W e h a d a n i n t e r e s t i n g r e l i g i o u s o p p o r t u n i t y w i t h t h e m a n d o t h e r s .

I n c o m p a n y w i t h o u r f r iend G e o r g e R a m s a y w e r o d e to S a n F e r n a n d o . O n t h e e s t a t e of H o r a t i o H u g g i n s , n e a r t h a t t o w n , w e f o u n d s e v e r a l of t h e A m e r i c a n s ; t h e y a p p e a r g e n e r a l l y w e l l sa t i s f ied . A c o n v e r s a t i o n h a d w i t h D r . M i c u l a m , u p o n t h e p r o s p e r o u s c o n d i t i o n of t h e c o l o n y , w a s i n t e r e s t i n g . A n i n v i t a t i o n b e i n g g i v e n u s b y D r . St . L o u i s P h i l i p s , w e d i n e d w i t h h i m in c o m p a n y w i t h a n u m b e r of p l a n t e r s a n d m a n a g e r s of e s t a t e s . T h e D o c t o r is a d a r k - c o l o r e d m a n ; in m a n n e r s a g r e e a b l e , a n d w e l l e d u c a t e d ; h a v i n g b e e n t a u g h t i n t h e b e s t s choo l s of S c o t l a n d , a n d is a g r a d u a t e of t h e M e d i c a l Co l l ege of E d i n b u r g h . H i s wi fe is a n i n t e l l i gen t S c o t c h w o m a n . T h e D o c t o r ' s f a t h e r left h i s w i d o w a n d c h i l d r e n t h r e e fine e s t a t e s , c l ea r of i n c u m b r a n c e , w h i c h a r e n o w


m a n a g e d b y t h e D o c t o r , w h o h a s r e l i n q u i s h e d h i s p r a c t i c e for t h e b u s i n e s s of a p l a n t e r . H e i n f o r m e d u s t h a t t h e t h r e e e s t a t e s w o u l d m a k e five h u n d r e d h o g s h e a d s of s u g a r th i s y e a r . H e h a s b e e n a m e m b e r of t h e G o v e r n o r ' s P r i v y C o u n c i l .

H a v i n g m a d e a r r a n g e m e n t s w i t h h i m to v i s i t h i s e s t a t e , c a l l ed " P h i l l i p i n e , " w e s ta r t e d o n h o r s e b a c k , in c o m p a n y w i t h s e v e r a l o t h e r s . T h i s p l a n t a t i o n r a n k s a m o n g t h e finest a n d bes t c o n d u c t e d u p o n t h e I s l a n d . T h e s u g a r w o r k s w e r e i n full o p e r a t i o n , m a n a g e d b y a co lo r ed m a n , a d v a n c e d in y e a r s , a n d w h o w a s f o r m e r l y a s l a v e u p o n t h e e s t a t e . T h e i r a p p e a r a n c e i n d i c a t e d o r d e r a n d r e g u l a r i t y . T h e l a w n a r o u n d t h e m a n s i o n a n d w o r k s l o o k e d w e l l t r i m m e d a n d n e a t ; a n d u n d e r t h e n u m e r o u s s h a d e t r e e s t h a t s t u d d e d it w e r e a l a r g e n u m b e r of m u l e s co l lec ted , w h i c h w e r e s c r e e n i n g t h e m se lves f rom t h e s u n , w h i c h n o w p o u r e d d o w n i ts r a y s w i t h g r e a t force . M u l e s a r e a n i m p o r t a n t i t e m of e x p e n s e u p o n e v e r y p l a n t a t i o n , a n d a l a r g e t r a d e is c a r r i e d on in t h e m to t h e S p a n i s h m a i n . A g o o d m u l e is v a l u e d f rom o n e h u n d r e d a n d fifty, to t w o h u n d r e d do l l a r s . F r o m for ty to fifty a r e c o m m o n u p o n e s t a t e s , a n d s o m e h a v e a s m a n y a s o n e , o r e v e n t w o h u n d r e d . T h e p r o s p e c t s f rom t h e e l e v a t i o n s u p o n th i s p l a n t a t i o n a r e de l igh t fu l , e x t e n d i n g o v e r m a n y m i l e s of a s fertile a r e g i o n a s p e r h a p s c a n b e f o u n d in t h e w o r l d .

T h e m o u n t a i n c a b b a g e , t h e p r i n c e a m o n g t r e e s , it w a s a p l e a s u r e to p e r c e i v e , h a d b e e n g e n e r a l l y s p a r e d b y t h e w o o d - c u t t e r . M a n y


w e r e s e e n r a i s i n g t h e i r n o b l e c o l u m n a r t r u n k s a n d f e a t h e r y c r o w n s in a l m o s t e v e r y field. O n e of i m m e n s e h e i g h t a t t r a c t s a t t e n t i o n o n t h e a p p r o a c h to P h i l l i p i n e , a n d m a y b e s e e n a t t h e d i s t a n c e of s e v e r a l m i l e s . I t r i ses n e a r t h e m a n s i o n w i t h a s l e n d e r c o l u m n , to t h e h e i g h t of o n e h u n d r e d a n d fifty f e e t ; o n e h u n d r e d a n d t h i r t y of w h i c h is a s m o o t h s u r f a c e . T h e l a b o r e r s o n t h i s e s t a t e fulfil t h e i r d u t i e s t o t h e sa t i s f ac t ion of t h e p r o p r i e t o r , h e b e i n g w e l l p l e a s e d w i t h h i s e m a n c i p a t e d p e o p l e , p r e f e r r i n g t h e m to s t r a n g e r s .

W e m a y r e m a r k t h a t d r u n k e n n e s s p r e v a i l s t o a g r e a t e x t e n t . T h e d i s t i l l a t ion of r u m b y a l m o s t e v e r y p l a n t e r , g i v e s s u c h faci l i t ies t h a t t h e l a b o r e r s d e m a n d it a s p a r t w a g e s . * I t is a m o s t d e p l o r a b l e ev i l , a n d w h i l e it c o n t i n u e s , t h e m o r a l c u l t u r e of t h e e m a n c i p a t e d p e o p l e wi l l b e g r e a t l y r e t a r d e d . T h e des i r e of t h e p l a n t e r t o m a k e e x c e s s i v e prof i t s , fos ters t h i s d e s o l a t i n g v i c e . I n o r d e r to g a i n h i s e n d s h e s u b m i t s to t h e c l a m o r of h i s l a b o r e r s for t h i s p e r n i c i o u s a r t i c l e , w h o m a y b e s a i d , o n th i s I s l a n d , to r e g u l a t e t h e t e r m s of h i s o w n l a b o r . I f t h e e m p l o y e r d o e s n o t a c c e d e to t h e d e m a n d s m a d e u p o n h i m , h i s c o t t a g e s m a y b e v a c a t e d , a n d h i s fields a n d h i s s u g a r w o r k s left d e s o l a t e . D r . P h i l l i p s h a s n o d i s t i l l e ry u p o n h i s p r e m i s e s , b u t sells h i s w a s t e to a n e i g h b o r i n g p l a n t e r .

W e m a d e a s e c o n d vis i t to P l e a s a n c e i n c o m p a n y w i t h o u r f r iend G e o r g e R a m s a y . I n t h e

* From recent information we are able to state, that this practice of giving rum as part wages has been very generally abolished.


j o u r n i e s t h a t h a v e b e e n m a d e f rom p l a c e t o p l a c e , w e h a v e to n o t e , t h a t t he g r a d e of m o r a l a n d r e l i g ious fee l ing is v e r y l o w . B u t H e w h o w a t c h e t h o v e r H i s flock is a t w o r k p r o d u c i n g a c h a n g e . A c h a n g e t h r o u g h H i s a g e n c y m u s t b e e f fec tua l .

F i r s t - d a y m o r n i n g w e h a d a m e e t i n g i n t h e M e t h o d i s t m e e t i n g - h o u s e , S a n F e r n a n d o , w h i c h w a s w e l l a t t e n d e d a n d afforded sa t i s fac t ion .

A vis i t to L e s Effor t , a n e s t a t e n e a r S a n F e r n a n d o , p r e s e n t e d a n o p p o r t u n i t y of s e e i n g a n d c o n v e r s i n g w i t h s e v e r a l A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s . J e r e m i a h S c u d d e r i n f o r m s t h a t l a s t w e e k h e r e c e i v e d f o u r t e e n d o l l a r s a n d e i g h t y c e n t s for five d a y s l a b o r . T h e k i n d of w o r k for w h i c h h e o b t a i n e d s u c h h i g h w a g e s w a s d i t c h i n g . A m e r i c a n s w h o c o n t r a c t t o p e r f o r m c e r t a i n k i n d s of l a b o r g e n e r a l l y m a k e g o o d w a g e s . T h e s l o w m a n n e r i n w h i c h s u c h s e r v i c e s w e r e p e r f o r m e d d u r i n g s l a v e r y , h a s d i squa l i f i ed t h e p l a n t e r s f r o m m a k i n g c o n t r a c t s w i t h f r e e m e n , a s t h e y c a n o n l y b a s e t h e i r c a l c u l a t i o n s u p o n w h a t t h e y h a v e b e e n a c c u s t o m e d to see p e r f o r m e d b y s l a v e s . T h e y wi l l l e a r n b y e x p e r i e n c e , a n d , in s o m e c a s e s , m a y h a v e to p a y for it .

I t is t h e t i m e of t h e c a r n i v a l : m a s q u e r a d e s a n d r e v e l l i n g a b o u n d . T h e G o v e r n m e n t a l l o w s t h r e e d a y s to b e s p e n t in th i s m a n n e r , a s t h e y h a v e to c o n f o r m in s o m e m e a s u r e to t h e w i l l of t h e n u m e r o u s C a t h o l i c p o p u l a t i o n .

T h e d r e s se s of t h e F r e n c h a n d S p a n i s h w o m e n a r e i n t h e f a s h i o n of t h e o l d e n t i m e s , — h i g h a n d florid co lo r s , w i t h l o n g t r a i l i ng sk i r t s s w e e p i n g t h e g r o u n d . B a r e feet w i t h s u c h f low-


i n g g a r m e n t s a r e l u d i c r o u s e n o u g h , a n d th i s m a y of ten b e s e e n . A g r e a t f o n d n e s s for d r e s s a p p e a r s to g e n e r a l l y e x i s t a m o n g t h e w o m e n , w i t h n o s m a l l d e g r e e of v a n i t y .

W e t o o k b r e a k f a s t w i t h H e n r y C r o w n e r , a c o l o r e d e m i g r a n t f rom B a l t i m o r e , on L e s Effor t e s t a t e . H i s wife w a s a l ive ly w o m a n a n d a p p e a r e d to b e a g o o d h o u s e k e e p e r , j u d g i n g f rom t h e n ice ly a r r a n g e d r o o m s a n d t h e s u b s t a n t i a l r e p a s t p r e p a r e d for u s .

I n c o m p a n y w i t h W i l l i a m H . B u r n l e y , w e v i s i t ed t w o of h i s e s t a t e s n e a r L a B r e a . A t P e r s e v e r a n c e , a n e s t a t e of n i n e h u n d r e d a c r e s , of w h i c h a b o u t t w o h u n d r e d a r e u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n , a n u m b e r of A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s a r e d o m i c i l e d — m o s t of w h o m a r e d o i n g we l l . A l a b o r e r w h o p e r f o r m s five t a s k s p e r w e e k , is e n t i t l ed to a h o u s e a n d g a r d e n , r e n t f ree . A t a s k cons i s t s in h o e i n g s i x t y feet s q u a r e , for w h i c h t h e y r e c e i v e fifty c e n t s . T h e w o m e n a r e n o t r e q u i r e d to p e r f o r m field l a b o r ; b u t a s t h e s a m e w a g e s a r e offered t h e m a s t h e m e n , t h e y of ten e n g a g e in i t , a n d t h e r e b y l a y u p c o n s i d e r a b l e s u m s of m o n e y . T h e wife of o n e of t h e A m e r i c a n s , f rom B a l t i m o r e , to ld u s , h e r h u s b a n d d id , o n a n a v e r a g e , o n e a n d a ha l f t a sks a d a y , — t h a t i s , n i n e p e r w e e k , — a n d t h a t s h e often c o m p l e t e d o n e t a s k he rse l f b y t e n o ' c lock i n t h e m o r n i n g . T h e Creo le s o n th i s e s t a t e h a v e h a d n o a d v a n t a g e of e d u c a t i o n — t h e r e b e i n g n o s u c h t h i n g a s a s choo l n e a r t h e m . T h e y a t t a c h b u t l i t t le v a l u e t o t i m e or m o n e y ; t he w a g e s t h e y r e c e i v e a r e of ten s q u a n d e r e d a w a y af ter p e r f o r m i n g t he i r five t a s k s p e r w e e k , w h i c h t h e y d o to s e c u r e


t he i r h o m e s . T h e b e n e v o l e n t p r o p r i e t o r of th i s e s t a t e m a n i f e s t s a g r e a t de s i r e to i m p r o v e t h e i r c o n d i t i o n a s far a s l ies in h i s p o w e r ; a n d , so far a s the i r p h y s i c a l comfor t s a r e c o n c e r n e d , h e h a s m a d e a m p l e p r o v i s i o n in t h e e r e c t i o n of c omfo r t a b l e h o u s e s , a n d t h e offer of a m p l e g r o u n d s for t h e m to r a i se p r o v i s i o n s for t h e i r fami l ies .

T h e d a r k a n d b e n i g h t e d c o n d i t i o n of m a n y of t h e s e p o o r c r e a t u r e s in t h i s I s l a n d , ca l l s l o u d l y u p o n t h e h o m e g o v e r n m e n t for t h e e x e r c i s e of t h a t b e n e v o l e n c e s h e professes to feel o n b e h a l f of h e r sub jec t s in t h e W e s t I n d i a Co lon i e s .

I n p a s s i n g t h r o u g h t h e forests of t h i s I s l a n d , w e h a v e b e e n s t r u c k w i t h t h e v a s t a m o u n t o f v e g e t a t i o n , i n d i c a t i n g t h e p r o d u c t i v e c h a r a c t e r of t h e soil . N a t u r e h a s d e a l t b o u n t i f u l l y w i t h T r i n i d a d , a n d p r o m i s e s a r i ch r e w a r d for h u m a n i n d u s t r y . U n h a p p i l y , h o w e v e r , t h e s y s t e m of a g r i c u l t u r e is m i s e r a b l y d e f e c t i v e ; t h e old e s t a b l i s h e d p r a c t i c e of t i l l ing t h e g r o u n d w i t h t h e h o e is still r e t a i n e d ; a n d t h e m a r c h of i m p r o v e m e n t in o t h e r r e s p e c t s is no t m u c h b e t t e r . A m o r e j u d i c i o u s s y s t e m w o u l d s o o n c h a n g e t h e a p p e a r a n c e of t h e c o u n t r y . T h e p l o u g h , a n d o t h e r i m p l e m e n t s of h u s b a n d r y , m i g h t b e i n t r o d u c e d h e r e to a d v a n t a g e ; b u t s u c h is t h e obs t i n a t e a t t a c h m e n t to l o n g e s t a b l i s h e d c u s t o m s , it w o u l d b e difficult to c h a n g e t h e m . T h e m o d e of c u l t i v a t i n g t h e c a n e in th i s c o l o n y is different f rom t h e m e t h o d p u r s u e d in t h e o t h e r i s l a n d s w e h a v e v i s i t ed . I n s t e a d of " h o l e i n g , " a s t h e y ca l l i t — w h i c h is d i g g i n g t r e n c h e s e i g h t e e n i n c h e s d e e p for t h e c a n e to b e b u r i e d i n , a n d w h i c h c o n s e q u e n t l y p u l v e r i z e s a l a r g e a m o u n t of s o i l —

9


t h e y m e r e l y m a k e a s m a l l h o l e w i t h t h e h o e , l a r g e e n o u g h to c o v e r t h e p l a n t , a n d t h u s l e a v e a l a r g e b o d y of t h e soil u n d i s t u r b e d ; in c o n s e q u e n c e of w h i c h it r e m a i n s v e r y h a r d ; t h e g r o w t h of t h e c a n e is i m p e d e d , a n d r e q u i r e s v e r y e a r l y w e e d i n g .

M o n P l a s i u r , a n o t h e r e s t a t e of W i l l i a m H . B u r n l e y ' s , h a s a b o u t o n e h u n d r e d a n d t h i r t y a c r e s u n d e r s u g a r c u l t i v a t i o n . A n u m b e r of A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s a r e l o c a t e d h e r e . S o m e of t h e s e i n f o r m e d u s , t h a t , w i t h t h e p r e s e n t w a g e s , t h e y c o u l d s a v e a t l eas t , o n a n a v e r a g e , $ 3 . 0 0 p e r w e e k ; all t h e w o r k b e i n g p e r f o r m e d b y t a s k s , for w h i c h t h e s a m e w a g e s a r e g i v e n a s a t P e r s e v e r a n c e .

T h e C r e o l e s o f t h i s e s t a t e , a l so , a r e m u c h a d d i c t e d to i n t e m p e r a n c e . W h i l e t h e m a n a g e r s o f e s t a t e s s p e a k of t h i s a s a g r i e v a n c e , it is t o b e f e a r e d t h a t t h e y t h e m s e l v e s a r e to b l a m e , for m a k i n g a p a r t of t h e l a b o r e r s ' w a g e s cons i s t i n a w e e k l y a l l o w a n c e of r u m . F r o m t h i s p r a c t i c e a r i s e s m a n y of t h o s e ev i l s a n d difficulties w h i c h t h e p l a n t e r s h e r e h a v e to c o n t e n d w i t h , a n d w h i c h l e s sens t h e a m o u n t of l a b o r m o r e t h a n a n y o t h e r c a u s e .

O n o u r w a y f rom M o n P l a s i u r t o t h e s h i p , w h i c h o u r k i n d f r i end , W m . H . B . , h a d d e t a i n e d a t L a B r e a , to c o n v e y u s b a c k to S a n F e r n a n d o , w e h a d to p a s s b y t h e P i t c h o r A s p h a l t u m L a k e ; a n d h a v i n g a f ew h o u r s to s p a r e before n igh t f a l l , i t g a v e u s a n o p p o r t u n i t y to see th i s g r e a t n a t u r a l c u r i o s i t y , o c c a s i o n e d , n o d o u b t , b y t h e a c t ion of s u b t e r r a n e a n fire. T h i s l a k e is s i t u a t e d o n a sma l l p e n i n s u l a , j u t t i n g in to t h e s e a a b o u t


t w o m i l e s , a n d is e l e v a t e d a b o u t e i g h t y feet a b o v e t h e l eve l of t h e o c e a n . I t is n e a r l y c i r c u l a r , a n d a b o u t a m i l e a n d a h a l f in c i r c u m fe rence ; o c c u p i e s t h e h i g h e s t p o i n t of l a n d , a n d is s e p a r a t e d f rom t h e sea b y a m a r g i n of w o o d . T h e a p p e a r a n c e of t h i s l a k e is v e r y r e m a r k a b l e . G r o u p s of beau t i fu l s h r u b s a n d flowers, tufts of w i l d p i n e - a p p l e s a n d a l o e s , bu t t e r f l i e s , b r i l l i an t h u m m i n g - b i r d s , a n d o t h e r b e a u t i f u l w i n g e d c r e a t u r e s , e n l i v e n t h e s cene . D e e p c r ev i ce s a r e f o r m e d i n different p a r t s of t h e a s p h a l t u m ; t he se s h e l v e off t o w a r d s t h e b o t t o m in a n e l l ip t ica l m a n n e r ; t h e y a r e f rom t w o to t h i r t y feet w i d e , a n d f rom t w o to s i x feet d e e p . T h e s e s i n g u l a r c h a s m s a r e filled w i t h e x c e l l e n t l i m p i d w a t e r , a n d c o n t a i n a l a r g e n u m b e r of fish. L i t t l e i s l a n d s a r e s e e n in different p a r t s of t h e l a k e , c o v e r e d w i t h s m a l l t r e e s ; t h e s e , t a k i n g a d v a n t a g e of t h e s l i gh t e s t l a y e r s of soi l , d a r t t h e i r h a r d y r o o t s i n to t h e a s p h a l t u m , a n d e n j o y a p r e c a r i o u s v e g e t a b l e life. T h e s e litt le i s l a n d s a r e b y n o m e a n s s t a t i o n a r y ; t h e i m p e r c e p t i b l e , b u t i n c e s s a n t , m o v e m e n t of t h e a s p h a l t u m , t r a n s p o r t s t h e m f r o m o n e p a r t of t h e l a k e to t h e o t h e r . S o m e t i m e s t h e y s i n k in to it , a n d a r e a g a i n t h r o w n u p a t s o m e d i s t a n c e , h a v i n g e x c h a n g e d t h e i r g r e e n fo l iage for t h e b l a c k v a r n i s h of t h e p i t ch .

T h e r o a d w h i c h l e a d s to t h e l a k e , for n e a r l y a m i l e is c o m p o s e d of t h e a s p h a l t u m w h i c h , a t s o m e f o r m e r p e r i o d , h a s r u n d o w n f r o m it. T h a t a t t h e s ide of t h e l a k e is pe r fec t ly h a r d a n d cool ; w e r o d e on it t h e d i s t a n c e of o n e h u n d r e d y a r d s , a n d t h e n d i s m o u n t i n g , w e a t t e m p t e d to c ross t h e l a k e on foot. T h i s w a s a t t e n d e d w i t h s o m e diffi-


c u l t y , in c o n s e q u e n c e of t h e g r e a t n u m b e r of t h e c h a s m s b e i n g filled w i t h w a t e r . B y a c i r c u i t o u s r o u t e w e r e a c h e d t h e m i d d l e of t h e l a k e . H e r e t h e p i t ch b e c o m e s softer , u n t i l a t las t it is s e e n b o i l i n g u p in a l i qu id s t a t e , r u n n i n g o v e r , a n d c o v e r i n g n e a r l y h a l f a n a c r e . T h e a i r w a s s t r o n g l y i m p r e g n a t e d w i t h b i t u m e n a n d s u l p h u r , a n d t h e i m p r e s s i o n of o u r feet w a s left on t h e su r f ace of t h e l a k e . T h e f low of a s p h a l t u m f rom t h i s l a k e h a s b e e n i m m e n s e — t h e w h o l e c o u n t r y , for m i l e s a r o u n d , b e i n g c o v e r e d w i t h i t . M a n y a t t e m p t s h a v e b e e n m a d e to a p p l y it to use fu l p u r p o s e s , b u t w i t h o u t m u c h success . T h e a p p e a r a n c e of a h e a v y r a i n ob l i ged u s to s h o r t e n o u r visi t , a n d b i d d i n g o u r f r i ends f a r e w e l l , w e r o d e d o w n to t h e s h o r e , w h e r e a b o a t w a s w a i t i n g to t a k e u s t o t h e s h i p . W e w e n t o n b o a r d t h e Calypso a b o u t s u n s e t ; b u t o w i n g to c a l m w e a t h e r , w e d id n o t r e a c h S a n F e r n a n d o till five o ' c lock t h e n e x t d a y , f rom w h i c h p l a c e w e t o o k t h e s t e a m b o a t for P o r t of S p a i n .

T h e c a r n i v a l i n t h i s t o w n is e n j o y e d to t h e ful lest e x t e n t . T h e s t r ee t s a r e t h r o n g e d w i t h m a s k e d p e o p l e of al l a g e s , d r e s s e d in a v a r i e t y of f an t a s t i c f a sh ions . O c c a s i o n a l l y a g r o u p c o n c e n t r a t e d in t he s t r ee t before t h e h o t e l , s i ng i n g a n d d a n c i n g to t h e m u s i c of t h e g u i t a r ; t h e w o r d s a p p e a r e d to b e F r e n c h . P r o c e s s i o n s a r e p a s s i n g a n d r e p a s s i n g , w i t h b a n n e r s flying, & c , a n d th i s is ca l l ed a r e l i g i o u s fes t iva l .

W e v i s i t ed t h e r o y a l gaol i n c o m p a n y w i t h H e n r y L J o b i t y . I t c o n t a i n s a t t h i s t i m e for ty -four p r i s o n e r s , — o n e u n t r i e d for m u r d e r w h i c h w a s c o m m i t t e d w i t h i n t h e w e e k p a s t . T h i s is


a c r i m e of r a r e o c c u r r e n c e . T h e offender is a S p a n i a r d . H e feels h i s d e p l o r a b l e c o n d i t i o n , r a v i n g a t t i m e s a s a m a n i a c .

O u r f r i ends J o h n L o s h a n d R . D a r r a c o t t i n t r o d u c e d u s th i s m o r n i n g to H e n r y M ' L e o d , t h e G o v e r n o r of t h e I s l a n d . H e a p p e a r s to h a v e t h e w e l f a r e of t h e c o m m u n i t y a t h e a r t . H i s p a r t i a l i t y h a s b e e n n o t i c e d for t h e A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t , a n d h e h a s b e e n e n d e a v o r i n g to m a k e w a y for t h e m w i t h t h e H o m e G o v e r n m e n t , a s i t r e s p e c t s t h e i r po l i t i ca l p r i v i l e g e s , f r a n c h i s e s , & c , a n d is c a r e fu l to p r o m o t e t h e i r g e n e r a l w e l fa re . H e d e p l o r e d t h e p r a c t i c e of t h e p l a n t e r s p a y i n g p a r t of t h e i r l a b o r e r s ' w a g e s i n r u m , a n d s e e m e d d e s i r o u s of d o i n g w h a t h e c o u l d t o a r r e s t t h e ev i l .

T h e r e a r e t e n or e l e v e n M i c o s c hoo l s o n t h i s I s l a n d , b u t w e d id n o t a s c e r t a i n t h e n u m b e r of s c h o l a r s ; w e u n d e r s t o o d , h o w e v e r , t h e y w e r e i n c r e a s i n g l y p a t r o n i s e d .

A de l igh t fu l m o r n i n g a n d a fine M A d a m i s e d r o a d , e n a b l e d u s to g e t to t h e e s t a t e of o u r f r i end H e n r y J o h n s o n , i n A r i m a , a t a n e a r l y h o u r . T h i s r o a d is t h e o n l y o n e w h i c h r e a c h e s t h e e a s t s i de of t h e I s l a n d , to a p o i n t c a l l e d C o c o a B a y , — s o n a m e d f rom a g r o v e of c o c o a -n u t t r e e s w h i c h s p r e a d a l o n g t h e c o a s t for s e v e r a l m i l e s . A m a n u f a c t o r y for p r e s s i n g t h e oil f rom t h e c o c o a - n u t s is e s t a b l i s h e d t h e r e . T h i s oil is f u r n i s h e d to t h e i n h a b i t a n t s a t a b o u t o n e do l l a r p e r g a l l o n .

T h e s c e n e r y u p o n th i s r o a d is b e a u t i f u l . A r a n g e of m o u n t a i n s r i ses u p o n t h e n o r t h , a n d a n e x t e n d e d c u l t i v a t e d p l a i n s p r e a d s o u t u p o n

9*


t h e s o u t h of t h e r o a d . T h e c o a c o c u l t i v a t i o n is c o n t i n u e d in t h e g o r g e s a n d va l l i e s of t h e s e m o u n t a i n s . T h e Bois Immortelle, in full b l o o m , i n d i c a t e t h e l o c a t i o n of t h e s e p l a n t a t i o n s .

L a u r e l H i l l , t h e e s t a t e of o u r f r iend H e n r y , is b e a u t i f u l l y s e a t e d , p a r t l y u p o n t h e m o u n t a i n s ide , b u t t h e g r e a t e r p r o p o r t i o n u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n is u p o n t h e p l a i n s . T h e fer t i l i ty of t h e soil is n o t e q u a l to t h a t of N a p a r i m a . A m o u n t a i n s t r e a m is b r o u g h t f rom a d i s t a n c e in a n a c q u e -d u c t , to ass i s t in g r i n d i n g t h e c a n e , w h i c h is m o s t l y p e r f o r m e d b y s t e a m p o w e r . O n e h u n d r e d a n d fifty h o g s h e a d s of s u g a r a r e a n n u a l l y m a d e o n th i s p l a n t a t i o n . A n u m b e r of A m e r i c a n e m i g r a n t s a r e e m p l o y e d , w h o a p p e a r we l l s a t i s fied w i t h t h e i r s i t u a t i o n a n d w a g e s . T h e n a t i v e l a b o r e r s a lso d o w e l l .

A m e e t i n g ca l l ed a t t h e P a r i s h S c h o o l - h o u s e in t h e e v e n i n g p r o v e d u n s a t i s f a c t o r y , f r o m t h e c i r c u m s t a n c e of o u r b e i n g p r e v e n t e d f rom e n t e r i n g , a n d t h e neces s i t y of h o l d i n g t h e m e e t i n g in t h e o p e n ai r . M u c h i r r i t a t i o n w a s m a n i f e s t e d b y t h o s e c o n v e n e d , a s t h e n i g h t a i r is d r e a d e d . R e t u r n e d to H e n r y J o h n s o n ' s , a n d l o d g e d ; h e a n d h i s wife h a v e b e e n e x c e e d i n g l y k i n d , u s i n g e v e r y e x e r t i o n to r e n d e r u s c o m f o r t a b l e .

T h e n u t m e g g r o w s u p o n th i s e s t a t e . T h i s h a n d s o m e t r e e l o v e s m o i s t a n d s h a d y s i t u a t i o n s . I t is v e r y prol if ic . T h e r i p e f rui t a s it h a n g s u p o n t h e b r a n c h e s is b e a u t i f u l . T h e o u t e r p u l p , p a r t i a l l y o p e n e d , p r e s e n t s t h e n u t m e g enc lo sed in a h a r d she l l , c o v e r e d i n i r r e g u l a r l ines b y t h e m a c e , w h i c h , in th i s s t a t e , is of a d e e p c r i m s o n . T h e b u r s t i n g of t h e o u t e r p u l p is t he i n d i c a t i o n

A V I S I T TO T H E W E S T I N D I E S . 1 0 3

o f i ts b e i n g r i p e . T h e c l o v e , a l l sp i ce , (or p i m e n t o , ) a n d c i n n a m o n g r o w u p o n th i s I s l a n d , a n d m i g h t b e m a d e s o u r c e s of profi t . B u t , s u g a r b e i n g t h e g r e a t s t a p l e , t h e g r e a t e s t e n e r g y is e x e r t e d to e x t e n d i ts p r o d u c t i o n .

R o d e to s e v e r a l e s t a t e s , s t o p p i n g a t O r a n g e G r o v e , b e l o n g i n g to W i l l i a m H . B u r n l e y . T h e v a r i e t y of p l a n t a n d f l o w e r n o t i c e d u p o n th i s r i d e f o r m e d o n e of i ts p l e a s u r e s . T h e l u x u r i a n t v e g e t a t i o n is r e m a r k a b l e . S e e d s g e r m i n a t e a n d g r o w in to t r e e s w i t h a s t o n i s h i n g r a p i d i t y . T h e B o i s I m m o r t e l l e , w h i c h a t t a i n s t h e d i m e n s i o n s of t h e l a r g e s t t r e e g r o w i n g in o u r n o r t h e r n l a t i t u d e s , — w i l l r e a c h t h a t s i ze in t h e p e r i o d of t e n y e a r s . M a n y o t h e r s g r o w e q u a l l y fast . T h e w o o d of t h e s e t r e e s is soft a n d w i l l s o o n d e c a y . B u t t h e B u l l i - t r e e , L i g n u m v i t a e , S p a n i s h C e d a r , L o c u s t , B o x w o o d , a l so g r o w h e r e .

O r a n g e G r o v e is a l a r g e e s t a t e , c o n t a i n i n g a b o u t t w o t h o u s a n d a c r e s , of w h i c h s i x h u n d r e d a r e u n d e r c u l t i v a t i o n . T w o h u n d r e d a n d for ty l a b o r e r s a n d c h i l d r e n a r e d o m i c i l e d o n th i s e s t a t e . T h e i r d w e l l i n g s f o r m i n g a n e a t v i l l a g e . O n e h u n d r e d a n d t w e n t y l a b o r e r s a r e e m p l o y e d d a i l y . T h i s y e a r t h e p r o d u c e of s u g a r wi l l e q u a l t h r e e h u n d r e d h o g s h e a d s . T h e c a p a b i l i t i es a r e s a id to b e four h u n d r e d . S i x t y c e n t s p e r d a y , o r t a s k , is p a i d o n th i s e s t a t e for field l a b o r ; — w h e n e n g a g e d a t t h e s u g a r w o r k s , f rom s i x t y cen t s to o n e do l l a r p e r d a y .

T h e ca t t l e r a i s e d u p o n t h e I s l a n d a r e g e n e r a l l y a s l a r g e a s n o r t h e r n ca t t l e . B u t l i t t le a t t e n t i o n h a s b e e n p a i d to p a s t u r a g e s . B e e f i s c o n s e q u e n t l y p o o r , a n d the m i l k f rom t h e c o w s


s c a n t y a n d th in . C o w s ' m i l k in P o r t of S p a i n is w o r t h t h i r t y c e n t s t h e p o r t e r - b o t t l e full, in w h i c h it is sold ; g o a t s ' m i l k , t h i r t y c e n t s a w i n e - b o t t l e ; g o o d b u t t e r , fifty c e n t s p e r p o u n d .

O n o u r r e t u r n w e n o t i c e d a n u m b e r of l one ly c o t t a g e s u p o n the r o a d s ide . O n i n q u i r y w e w e r e i n f o r m e d t h e y w e r e t h e h a b i t a t i o n s of l e p e r s . P o o r c r e a t u r e s , m a n y of w h o m w e s a w a t t h e d o o r s of t he i r s e c l u d e d h u t s , l o o k e d d i s t r e s sed a n d h e a r t - b r o k e n . H o w d r e a d f u l t h e i d e a to b e d r i v e n f rom t h e c o m m o n h a u n t s of m e n , f e a r e d a n d s h u n n e d a s u n c l e a n , to p i n e i n h o p e l e s s m i s e r y a n d d ie a l o n e . A t A n t i g u a , w h e r e t h i s d i s e a s e a lso p r e v a i l s , a n a s y l u m h a s b e e n e r e c t e d , w h e r e t h e y w i l l b e p r o p e r l y a t t e n d e d t o , a n d t h e i r p r e s e n t h o p e l e s s c o n d i t i o n in a m e a s u r e m e l i o r a t e d . W e c o u l d n o t b u t u r g e t h e sub j ec t u p o n t h e b e n e v o l e n c e of o u r f r i ends , t h a t s o m e t h i n g m i g h t b e d o n e u p o n th i s I s l a n d o f a s i m i l a r c h a r a c t e r .

W e r o d e to t o w n a b o u t 5 o ' c l o c k ; t h e b u s y h u m of t h e c i ty h a s c e a s e d , t h e s to res a r e a l l c losed . I t is a s i n g u l a r a p p e a r a n c e to see t h e s t r ee t s d e s e r t e d in b r o a d d a y . T h e m e r c h a n t s r i s e e a r l y , p r o c e e d i n g to b u s i n e s s in t h e cool of t h e m o r n i n g , a c c o m p l i s h i n g m o s t of the i r t r a d i n g be fo re n o o n . I n t h e e v e n i n g w e h a d a n in t e r e s t i n g m e e t i n g in t h e W e s l e y a n C h a p e l , which w a s l a r g e l y a t t e n d e d b y t h e c i t i zens of P o r t o f S p a i n . F r o m W i l l i a m M o i s t e r , t h e M e t h o d i s t m i n i s t e r , w e l e a r n e d t h e p l e a s i n g fact , t h a t F r i e n d s in E n g l a n d maintain t w o or t h r e e schoo l s u p o n th i s I s l a n d .

Third month, 1st.—This m o r n i n g , in c o m -


p a n y w i t h A r t h u r W h i t e , t h e G o v e r n o r ' s se c r e t a r y , w e m a d e a v is i t to St . A n n s , t h e G o

v e r n o r ' s p r i v a t e r e s i d e n c e . A l a r g e b o t a n i c g a r d e n of m o r e t h a n t w e n t y a c r e s s u r r o u n d s t h e m a n s i o n , w h i c h w a s e s t a b l i s h e d b y R a l p h W o o d f o r d , a f o r m e r G o v e r n o r , w h o s e n a m e is r e m e m b e r e d w i t h m u c h r e s p e c t .

A n x i o u s to p r o m o t e t h e w e l f a r e of t h e c o l o n y , h e d e s i g n e d th i s g a r d e n a s a n u r s e r y for t r op i ca l f ru i t s a n d w o o d s . M u c h e x p e n s e w a s i n c u r r e d in o b t a i n i n g t h e v a r i e t y of sp ices c u l t i v a t e d i n fo re ign i s l a n d s , b e s i d e s o t h e r v a l u a b l e p l a n t s .

M a n y h a v e s u c c e e d e d w e l l , a n d it w a s f r o m th i s n u r s e r y , t h a t t h e n u t m e g , c l o v e , p i m e n t o , b l a c k p e p p e r , & c , h a v e b e e n i n t r o d u c e d in to o t h e r p a r t s of t he i s l and . I r o n p i p e s c o n v e y i n g e x c e l l e n t w a t e r f r o m a m o u n t a i n s p r i n g , a n d w h i c h s u p p l i e s P o r t of S p a i n , p a s s e s t h r o u g h th i s g a r d e n .

O n th i s i s l and , a s o n o t h e r s we h a v e v i s i t ed , o u r o p e n i n g s for m e e t i n g s i n c r e a s e , t h e l o n g e r we t a r r y . T h e p e o p l e a r e a n x i o u s for u s t o d e l a y o u r d e p a r t u r e , d e s i r i n g o t h e r r e l i g ious o p p o r t u n i t i e s . W e felt, h o w e v e r , t h a t o u r s e r v i c e s h e r e w e r e d r a w i n g to a c lose . W e h a d a p a r t i n g m e e t i n g in P o r t of S p a i n th i s e v e n i n g w h i c h w a s a s e a s o n of D i v i n e favor , a n d in w h i c h w e w e r e e n a b l e d to e n c o u r a g e t h o s e a s s e m b l e d to i n d i v i d u a l fa i th fu lness to t h e t e a c h i n g s of t h e H o l y Spi r i t , t h a t b y l ove a n d g o o d w o r k s , t h e y m i g h t s h o w t h e m s e l v e s b e l i e v e r s in t h e g o s p e l of Chr i s t , for t h e l o v e of w h i c h , w e h a v e b e e n c o n s t r a i n e d to v i s i t t h e m , a n d in w h i c h w e c o u l d b id t h e m a n af fec t ionate f a r e w e l l .


S i n c e b e i n g o n th i s I s l a n d , we h a v e s e e n m a n y of t h e e m i g r a n t s f rom t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , a n d h a v e r e c e i v e d f rom t h e m m u c h i n f o r m a t i o n in r e g a r d to t h e i r c i r c u m s t a n c e s , finding t h e m g e n e r a l l y c o m f o r t a b l e a n d d o i n g we l l .

W e h a d b e e n i m p r e s s e d Avith a different i d e a f rom t h e s t a t e m e n t s w h i c h h a d b e e n m a d e to u s whi le o n t h e o t h e r I s l a n d s . W e find t h a t m a n y m i s t a k e n v i e w s h a v e b e e n c i r c u l a t e d , a s o p p o r t u n i t i e s in th i s c o l o n y to i m p r o v e t h e i r c o n d i t i o n a r e a m p l y afforded to a n y co lo r ed e m i g r a n t , if h e b u t l e a d a life of c i r c u m s p e c t i o n a n d i n d u s t r y .

T h e A m e r i c a n s , e v e n in t h e s h o r t p e r i o d of t i m e t h e y h a v e b e e n k n o w n u p o n th i s I s l a n d , h a v e i n d u c e d a l a r g e s h a r e of con f idence a m o n g t h e p l a n t e r s , b e i n g l o o k e d u p o n a s g r e a t l y s u p e r i o r in in te l lec t a s Avell a s in i n d u s t r y to t h e n a t i v e c r e o l e , a n d , a s a c o n s e q u e n c e , a r e m u c h p r e f e r r e d , when t h e y c a n b e p r o c u r e d , a s l a b o r e r s on e s t a t e s .

A n u m b e r h a v e r e t u r n e d to t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s d issa t i s f ied , a n o c c u r r e n c e w h i c h m i g h t b e s u p p o s e d w o u l d neces sa r i l y h a p p e n , a s m a n y l e a v e t h e i r f o r m e r h o m e s w i t h o u t p r o p e r l y t a k i n g in to c o n s i d e r a t i o n t h e p r i v a t i o n s or difficulties t h e y m a y h a v e to e n c o u n t e r . S o m e of t h e s e h a v e c a r r i e d b a c k u n f a v o r a b l e r e p o r t s , a n d n o w b e i n g h e r e Ave h a v e felt it o u r ' p l a c e , in s o m e m e a s u r e , to e x a m i n e in to t he i r c o n d i t i o n a n d p r o s p e c t s , t h a t t h e t r u t h m a y b e k n o w n .

F r o m w h a t w e c o u l d d i s cove r , a n a g r i c u l t u r a l l a b o r e r c a n a l w a y s o b t a i n e m p l o y m e n t a n d g o o d w a g e s ; t hose w h o a r e u n a c c u s t o m e d to


field l a b o r a n d o t h e r a g r i c u l t u r a l b u s i n e s s , u n l e s s t h e y h a v e a sufficient c a p i t a l , to p u r c h a s e a s m a l l t r a c t of l a n d , a n d f a r m for t h e m s e l v e s , n e e d no t c a l c u l a t e u p o n c o n s t a n t e m p l o y m e n t .

T h e f o l l o w i n g e x t r a c t f rom t h e " T r i n i d a d S t a n d a r d of S e c o n d m o n t h 11 th , 1 8 4 1 , " wi l l s h o w t h a t t h e a d v a n t a g e of e m i g r a t i o n f r o m t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s to t h i s c o l o n y is ch ief ly to b e f o u n d in t h e civil a n d pol i t i ca l p r i v i l e g e s t h e y m a y en joy h e r e .

" I t is p l a i n t h a t t h e i n d u c e m e n t s t o t h e c o l o r e d A m e r i c a n s to e m i g r a t e to th i s I s l a n d a r e v e r y different f rom t h o s e w h i c h o p e r a t e u p o n t h e l a b o r e r s of t h e n e i g h b o r i n g co lon ie s . T h e l a t t e r flock to u s b e c a u s e e m p l o y m e n t is difficult t o o b t a i n , o r l a b o r is p o o r l y r e m u n e r a t e d a t t h e I s l a n d s f rom w h e n c e t h e y c a m e . T h e f o r m e r m e r e l y fly f r o m pol i t i ca l b u t g r i e v o u s o p p r e s s i o n , to a l a n d w h e r e a t l ea s t t h e y a r e a s s u r e d of full p r o t e c t i o n f rom t h e l a w s , a s w e l l i n p e r s o n a s in p r o p e r t y , a n d w h e r e t h e co lor of t h e sk in wi l l r a t h e r p r o t e c t t h e m f rom t h a n e x p o s e t h e m to s u c h i n d i g n i t i e s a s a r e h e a p e d u p o n t h e m in t h e i r o w n c o u n t r y . If, t h e r e f o r e , w e w i s h to d r a w to u s th i s usefu l r a c e of p e o p l e , w e m u s t b e a r in m i n d t h a t t he b o o n to b e h e l d o u t a n d s e c u r e d to t h e m , is n e i t h e r c e r t a i n t y of e m p l o y m e n t , n o r i n c r e a s e d r e m u n e r a t i o n for t he i r l a b o r , b u t t h e g u a r a n t e e to t h e m of per fec t s e c u r i t y f r o m t h e ev i l s w h i c h h a v e d r i v e n t h e m f r o m t h e l a n d of t h e i r b i r t h , a n d t h e o p e n i n g to t h e m t h e r o a d to t h a t soc ia l c o n d i t i o n a n d po l i t i ca l c o n s i d e r a t i o n , t h e v a l u e of w h i c h t h e y h a v e l e a r n e d , a s w e l l b y t h e c a r e t a k e n b y the w h i t e s


i n t h e i r n a t i v e l a n d , to s e c u r e t h e s e p r i v i l e g e s for t h e m s e l v e s , a s from t h a t e x e r c i s e d to e x c l u d e a l l p e r s o n s of co lor f rom the s m a l l e s t p a r t i c i p a t i o n in t h e m . "

Third month 2d.—Having n o w c losed o u r r e l i g i o u s s e rv i ce s u p o n th i s I s l and w e m a d e a r r a n g e m e n t s to sa i l t o - d a y i n t h e s c h o o n e r " S u p e r b , " of N a n t u c k e t , b o u n d for St. T h o m a s . M a n y of o u r f r i ends ca l l ed to b i d u s f a r e w e l l , w h o s e p a r t i n g s a l u t a t i o n s s e e m e d to b e t h e e x p r e s s i o n of a w a r m a n d a f fec t iona te in t e re s t in o u r w e l f a r e a n d a s i n c e r e des i r e t h a t w e m i g h t w h e n o u r m i s s i o n w a s c o m p l e t e d , r e t u r n i n p e a c e to o u r h o m e s .

A m o n g o t h e r s w h o c a m e to see u s t h i s m o r n i n g , w a s a M a h o m e t a n p r i e s t , n a m e d E m i r S a m b a M a k u m b a , w i t h w h o m w e h a d a n in t e r e s t i n g i n t e r v i e w , a n d o b t a i n e d f r o m h i m a b r i e f h i s t o r y of h i m s e l f a n d h i s p e o p l e n o w r e s i d e n t u p o n th i s I s l a n d , w h e r e t h e y c o n t i n u e to w o r s h i p af ter t h e m a n n e r of t he i r f a t h e r s a c c o r d i n g to t h e p r e c e p t s of t h e K o r a n .

H e is a b o u t s i x t y - s i x y e a r s o ld , h i s h a i r a n d b e a r d , w h i c h h e h a s a l l o w e d to g r o w l o n g , a r e w h i t e . H e w o r e t h e h a b i t of h i s o r d e r , a f l o w i n g w h i t e t u n i c . S a m b a c o u l d s p e a k s e v e r a l l a n g u a g e s ; h e a d d r e s s e d u s in A r a b i c , p r o n o u n c i n g t h e b e n e d i c t i o n of t h e M a h o m e t a n s on t h o s e t h e y e s t e e m a s p e o p l e of G o d . A f t e r w a r d s h e c o n v e r s e d in F r e n c h , a n d o u r F r i e n d H . L . J o b i t y i n t e r p r e t e d for u s . H i s c o u n t e n a n c e w a s r e m a r k a b l y s e r e n e , a n d a l t h o u g h h e had b e e n a m a n of s o r r o w s a n d a c q u a i n t e d w i t h grief, y e t h i s face w a s l igh ted w i t h a s m i l e .


H e w a s b y d e s c e n t a c h i e f a n d a p r i e s t a m o n g t h e M a n d i n g o e s i n A f r i c a , b u t i n e a r l y life w a s t a k e n c a p t i v e in o n e of t h o s e i n t e s t i n e w a r s w h i c h a r e u n h a p p i l y o c c a s i o n e d a m o n g t h e n a t i v e t r i bes i n Af r i ca b y t h e s l a v e t r a d e . H e b e l o n g e d to t h e t r i b e F u l l a h T a u r o , w h i c h eng a g e d in a w a r w i t h s i x o t h e r t r i b e s in Af r i ca t o p r e v e n t t h e m , a s h e s a i d , f rom c a r r y i n g o n t h e t h e s l a v e t r a d e .

T h e M a h o m e t a n s a r e f o r b i d d e n to m a k e s l a v e s of t hose of t he i r o w n fa i th , a n d w h e n a n y of t h e i r p e o p l e a r e c o n c e r n e d in th i s traffic, t h e y b e l i e v e t he i r r e l i g i o n r e q u i r e s t h e m to p u t a s t o p to it b y force . I t w a s for th i s p u r p o s e a w a r w a s c o m m e n c e d b y t h e F u l l a h s a g a i n s t t h e s e o t h e r t r i b e s , a n d in th i s w a r S a m b a w a s t a k e n p r i s o n e r a n d so ld a s a s l a v e . H e w a s b r o u g h t to th i s I s l a n d a t t h e a g e of t w e n t y - o n e y e a r s , a n d w a s p u r c h a s e d f rom a s l a v e s h i p b y a F r e n c h p l a n t e r , w h o g a v e h i m t h e n a m e of S i m o n B o i s s e r e . P o s s e s s i n g a s u p e r i o r m i n d , h e w a s soon p l a c e d b y h i s m a s t e r a s s u p e r i n t e n d e n t of h i s p l a n t a t i o n . L a b o r i n g fa i thful ly , a n d o p p o r t u n i t i e s b e i n g af forded h i m , h e s o o n e a r n e d a sufficient s u m of m o n e y to p u r c h a s e h i s f r e e d o m . I n s t i g a t e d b y h i s e x a m p l e a n d a d v i c e , o t h e r s of h is c o u n t r y m e n a lso s u c c e e d e d in s e c u r i n g t h e i r f r e e d o m . T h e y t h e n f o r m e d t h e m s e l v e s in to a n a s soc i a t i on to m a i n t a i n t h e i r r e l i g ious p rofess ion , S a m b a a c t i n g a s t h e i r p r i es t . T h e i r n e x t effort w a s to p u r c h a s e s m a l l t r a c t s of l a n d , u p o n w h i c h t h e y e r e c t e d h a b i t a t i o n s , a n d w e r e t h u s e n a b l e d b y t h e p r o d u c e o f t he i r g a r d e n s , & c , t o s u p p o r t t h e m s e l v e s r e s p e c t a b l y .

10


H a v i n g s e c u r e d c o m f o r t a b l e h o m e s t h e y t u r n e d t h e i r a t t e n t i o n to t he i r suffer ing b r e t h r e n in c a p t i v i t y . L i b e r a l s u b s c r i p t i o n s w e r e m a d e a m o n g t h e m for th i s b e n e v o l e n t ob jec t , a n d w h e n a s l a v e sh ip a r r i v e d a t t h e c o l o n y , S a m b a a n d h i s f r i ends w e r e t h e first o n b o a r d to i n q u i r e for M a n d i n g o e s , a n d if t h e r e w e r e a n y a m o n g t h e c a p t i v e s , t h e y r a n s o m e d t h e m i m m e d i a t e l y . U p to t h e t i m e of t h e d e c l a r a t i o n of f r e e d o m , t h e y h a d r e l e a s e d f rom b o n d a g e u p w a r d s of five h u n d r e d in T r i n i d a d a l o n e . T h e i r o p e r a t i o n s w e r e a l so e x t e n d e d t o o t h e r i s l ands . T h e r e a r e s e v e r a l h u n d r e d of t h e m a t p r e s e n t i n t h i s i s l a n d , a n d a l t h o u g h t h e y c o n t i n u e the i r f o r m of fa i th a n d w o r s h i p , t h e y a r e no t i ced for t h e i r h a b i t s of t e m p e r a n c e a n d e x e m p l a r y d e p o r t m e n t . I n th i s r e s p e c t t h e y h a v e b e e n a s l igh t s to t he i r p ro fe s s ing C h r i s t i a n n e i g h b o r s .

T h e old m a n sa id h e m o u r n e d o v e r t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e C h r i s t i a n w o r l d ; h e r e g r e t t e d t h a t t h e i r y o u t h w e r e in d a n g e r of b e i n g d r a w n a w a y b y t h e ev i l p r a c t i c e s of t h e C h r i s t i a n s . H e t h o u g h t it w a s safe to j u d g e p e o p l e b y t h e i r a c t i o n s , a n d w h e n h e s a w t h e C h r i s t i a n s h o l d i n g t h o s e of t he i r o w n fa i th in s l a v e r y , e n g a g i n g i n Avars w i t h m e m b e r s of t he i r o w n c h u r c h , a n d a d d i c t e d to h a b i t s of i n t e m p e r a n c e , all of w h i c h t h e K o r a n forb ids , h e t h o u g h t it w a s sufficient e v i d e n c e t h a t t h e r e l i g ion of M a h o m e t w a s s u p e r i o r to t h e r e l i g ion of A n n a Bissa, ( J e s u s Chr i s t . )

W e to ld h i m Ave u n d e r s t o o d t h e r e l i g ion of J e s u s a s fo rb idd ing al l t h e s e p r a c t i c e s , b u t t h a t t h e professors of t h e re l ig ion of Chr i s t d id


n o t l i ve u p to h i s p r e c e p t s . H e i n q u i r e d " h a v e y o u a n y s l a v e s i n y o u r c o u n t r y ? " t o w h i c h w e r e p l i e d n e a r l y t h r e e mi l l ion . A t th i s inform a t i o n h e g a v e a l o o k of a s t o n i s h m e n t a n d in d i g n a t i o n .

W e a s k e d h i m if h e b e l i e v e d t h e g r e a t G o d w h o m a d e a l l t h i n g s h a d p l a c e d a w i t n e s s of h i m s e l f i n t h e h e a r t s of a l l m e n to t e a c h t h e m w h a t is r i g h t a n d w h a t is w r o n g , to w h i c h h e r e p l i e d , " Y e s , c e r t a i n l y ; G o d h a s p l a c e d h i s Sp i r i t in m a n to s h o w h i m g o o d a n d ev i l , a n d m a n o u g h t to o b e y i t , for b y so d o i n g h e w o u l d p l e a s e h i s M a k e r , a n d b e a c c e p t e d of h i m . " H e f u r t h e r r e m a r k e d , " I t is b y l i s t en ing to e v i l s u g g e s t i o n s t h a t h e b e c o m e s v e r y w i c k e d . " H e t h o u g h t t h e C h r i s t i a n s d e g r a d e d t h e m s e l v e s b y se l l ing t h e B i b l e , w h i c h t h e y c o n s i d e r a s t a n d a r d of r e l i g ious fa i th . " Y o u o u g h t n o t to sell y o u r r e l i g i o n , " m e a n i n g t h e B i b l e , " or t a k e p a y for e x p o u n d i n g i t , " m e a n i n g for p r e a c h i n g . W e to ld h i m w e did no t d o i t , w e c a m e o u t of l o v e a n d g o o d w i l l to see t h e p e o p l e of t h e s e i s l a n d s , t h a t w e m i g h t e n c o u r a g e t h e m to l o v e a n d g o o d w o r k s .

" T h e n , " s a i d h e , " y o u a r e m e n of G o d , a n d I h o p e t h e L o r d w i l l b l e s s y o u r l a b o r s , a n d m a k e y o u useful i n s p r e a d i n g h i s t r u t h in t h e w o r l d . "

. I t w a s a p l e a s u r e to b e w i t h th i s b e n e v o l e n t i n d i v i d u a l , w h o m a y b e l o o k e d u p o n a s o n e of t h e b r i g h t e s t p h i l a n t h r o p i s t s of t h e a g e . W h e n w e c o n s i d e r t h e h u m b l e s p h e r e in w h i c h h e h a s m o v e d , a n d t h e l imi ted m e a n s a t h i s c o m m a n d for a c c o m p l i s h i n g a b e n e v o l e n t s c h e m e


w h i c h h a d for i ts objec t t h e e m a n c i p a t i o n of a l l h i s c o u n t r y m e n in c a p t i v i t y , ( t he M a n d i n g o s l aves , ) a n d c o n t e m p l a t e the success w h i c h h a s a t t e n d e d t h e l a b o r s of S a m b a a n d h i s c o a d j u to r s , t h i s b r i e f a c c o u n t of h i m wi l l b e e s t e e m e d w o r t h y of r eco rd .

S T . T H O M A S .

Third month 7 t h . — A v o y a g e of m o r e t h a n five h u n d r e d m i l e s a c ro s s t h e C a r i b b e a n s e a b r o u g h t u s a g a i n to th is i s l and . T h e r e w a s b u t l i t t le to i n t e r e s t u s d u r i n g t h e fou r d a y s w h i c h it o c c u p i e d . W e w e r e o u t of s igh t of l a n d f r o m t h e t i m e w e left t h e s o u t h A m e r i c a n coas t a n d m o u n t a i n s , till w e c a m e in s i g h t of S a b a a n d S a n t a C r u z , p a s s i n g a b o u t m i d w a y b e t w e e n t h o s e t w o p l a c e s . — W e h a d a s t r o n g a n d f a v o r a b l e w i n d t h e w h o l e p a s s a g e , w h i c h s o m e t i m e s o c c a s i o n e d t h e s e a to b e v e r y r o u g h , a n d we b e i n g in a s m a l l v e s s e l felt it s e n s i b l y ; w e r e a c h e d t h e m o u t h o f t h e in le t o n w h i c h S t . T h o m a s is s i t u a t e d o n S e v e n t h - d a y e v e n i n g , b u t t h e c a p t a i n b e i n g u n a c q u a i n t e d w i t h t h e h a r b o r , w e w e r e o b l i g e d to " l a y t o , " a n d s p e n d a m o s t u n c o m f o r t a b l e n i g h t o n b o a r d t h e vesse l . E a r l y n e x t m o r n i n g w e w e n t in a n d cas t a n c h o r a m o n g t h e s h i p p i n g , t r a d i n g to t h i s p o r t f rom a l m o s t e v e r y n a t i o n . A s w e e n t e r e d t h e t o w n w e f o u n d m o s t of t h e s to re s o p e n , a n d t h e m e r c h a n d i z i n g a n d t raff icking, t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e b u s t l e of t h e b u y e r s a n d se l le rs in t h e m a r k e t p l a c e s , g a v e b u t l i t t le e v i d e n c e t h a t t h e i n h a b i t a n t s of S t . T h o m a s d e v o t e t h e first d a y o f


t h e w e e k to r e s t o r d e v o t i o n . A t t e n o ' c lock , h o w e v e r , t h e s to res w e r e m o s t l y c losed . T h e b u y e r s a n d sel lers left t h e m a r k e t p l a c e s , a n d t h e b u s y d i n of c o m m e r c e g a v e p l a c e n o t g e n e r a l l y to d e v o t i o n a l d u t i e s , b u t to p l e a s u r e s a n d v a i n p u r s u i t s m o r e d i s r e p u t a b l e t h a n t h e c o n s t a n t a t t e n t i o n to m e r c a n t i l e t r a n s a c t i o n s . A n d y e t h e r e , a l so , w e m e t w i t h t h o s e w h o t h i n k a n d feel u p o n t h e sub jec t of t h e s o u l ' s w e l l b e i n g , a n d see t h e i m p o r t a n c e of l i v i n g a r i g h t e o u s life.

N o w a y o p e n e d for u s t o h o l d r e l i g ious m e e t i n g s h e r e , i n c o n s e q u e n c e of t h e G o v e r n o r g e n e r a l of t h e D a n i s h I s l a n d s h a v i n g i s sued h i s p r o c l a m a t i o n a g a i n s t u s . W e f o u n d , h o w e v e r , t h a t t h e g e n e r a l s e n t i m e n t of t h e i n h a b i t a n t s to w h o m t h e objec t of o u r v is i t b e c a m e k n o w n , w a s i n o u r f a v o r , t h e y e x p r e s s i n g a w i s h t h a t w e m i g h t h a v e r e l i g ious o p p o r t u n i t i e s w i t h t h e p e o p l e . A l t h o u g h s u c h p r i v i l e g e s w e r e n o t a l l o w e d u s , w e h a v e r e a s o n to b e l i e v e t h a t o u r v i s i t t o t h e D a n i s h I s l a n d s , w a s a t t e n d e d w i t h s o m e g o o d , a n d t h e v e r y c i r c u m s t a n c e of o u r h a v i n g b e e n d e n i e d th i s l i b e r t y , l ed m a n y i n t o a n i n q u i r y o n t h e sub jec t of r e l ig ious t o l e r a t i o n , w h i c h w i l l n o d o u b t l e a d t o benef ic ia l r e s u l t s , a n d m a y poss ib ly h a s t e n t h e p e r i o d , w h e n e v e r y gospe l m e s s e n g e r wi l l be w e l c o m e d to t h e i r s h o r e s , a n d p e r m i t t e d " f r e e l y " to d e c l a r e t h a t w h i c h t h e y h a v e " f r e e l y r e c e i v e d . "

T h e k i n d a t t e n t i o n s of o u r f r iend E . S. c o n t r i b u t e d to m a k e o u r v is i t a t th i s t i m e a p l e a s a n t o n e . W e r e m a i n e d h e r e s e v e r a l d a y s w a i t i n g

1 0 *

1 1 4 N A R R A T I V E OF

for t h e s t e a m e r to J a m a i c a , w h i c h e n a b l e d u s to r e c r u i t f rom t h e s ea s i cknes s a n d f a t igue o c c a s i o n e d b y o u r v o y a g e f rom T r i n i d a d i n a n u n c o m f o r t a b l e vesse l . W e h a v e c a u s e t o feel t h a n k f u l t h a t o u r h e a l t h h a s b e e n p r e s e r v e d t h r o u g h a l l t h e e x p o s u r e s to w h i c h w e h a v e b e e n s u b j e c t e d , a n d a c k n o w l e d g i n g t h e h a n d of t h e H e a v e n l y S h e p h e r d i n p r e s e r v i n g u s f rom m a n y d a n g e r s , w e a r e e n c o u r a g e d to g o forw a r d t r u s t i n g in h i m .

V O Y A G E T O J A M A I C A .

Third month 1 1 t h . — W e t o o k p a s s a g e i n t he s t e a m e r H e c l a , th i s e v e n i n g , for J a m a i c a . T h e H e c l a is a g o v e r n m e n t ve s se l , of e i g h t h u n d r e d t o n s b u r d e n , a n d is u s e d for c a r r y i n g t h e m a i l s , b e i n g w e l l fitted u p for t h e a c c o m m o d a t i o n of p a s s e n g e r s . O u r v o y a g e o c c u p i e d four d a y s , s t o p p i n g a s h o r t t i m e a t St . J o h n s , P o r t o R i c o , C a p e H a y t i e n , a n d St. J a g o d e C u b a , t o l a n d a n d r e c e i v e t h e m a i l s .

O n F i r s t - d a y m o r n i n g w e a n c h o r e d off C a p e H a y t i e n , a n d h a v i n g a n h o u r to s p e n d t h e r e , w e w e n t o n s h o r e a n d t o o k a w a l k t h r o u g h t h i s o n c e c e l e b r a t e d t o w n . A b o u t fifteen h u n d r e d t r o o p s w e r e b e i n g r e v i e w e d b y t he i r g e n e r a l officers in a n e x t e n s i v e s q u a r e in front of t he i r c a t h e d r a l , s a id to b e t h e l a rges t c h u r c h in t h e W e s t I n d i e s , a n d in w h i c h w e r e a s s e m b l e d a l a r g e c o m p a n y a t t he i r d e v o t i o n s . T h e C a t h o l ic , is t h e p r e v a i l i n g r e l ig ion , a l t h o u g h t h e r e a r e s e v e r a l o t h e r sec ts t o l e r a t e d . T h e m a r k e t p l ace w a s c r o w d e d w i t h b u y e r s a n d se l le rs . M a n y


of t h e s h o p s a n d s to re s w e r e o p e n , f rom w h i c h w e in fe r red t h a t t h e first d a y of t h e w e e k w a s n o t k e p t a s a d a y of res t or d e v o t i o n .

C a p e H a y t i e n is in a d i l a p i d a t e d c o n d i t i o n . T h e r u i n s of i ts f o rmer p a l a c e s still s p e a k of i ts a n c i e n t g r a n d e u r . T h e m o u n t a i n s c e n e r y a r o u n d it is p a r t i c u l a r l y b e a u t i f u l . O n o n e of t h e lofty e m i n e n c e s C h r i s t o p h e ' s p a l a c e a n d for t ress of S a n s S o u c i is s e e n ; w h e r e , b e i n g b e s i e g e d b y h i s e n e m i e s , a n d n o h o p e of e s c a p e , h e t e r m i n a t e d h i s e x i s t e n c e b y h i s o w n h a n d s . T h e c l i m a t e of St . D o m i n g o is p e c u l i a r l y de l igh t fu l . T h e a i r is b a l m y a n d s w e e t , c o n t i n u a l v e r d u r e c o v e r s i ts v a l l e y s a n d its hi l ls . A m o r e l i b e r a l g o v e r n m e n t w o u l d r e n d e r it o n e of t h e m o s t d e s i r ab l e p l a c e s of r e s i d e n c e . B o y e r ' s po l i cy is e x c l u s i v e , a n d h i s s y s t e m of i n t e r n a l d i sc ip l ine a m o u n t s a l m o s t to a m i l i t a r y d e s p o t i s m .

W e s t o p p e d t w o o r t h r e e h o u r s a t St . J a g o d e C u b a . T h i s t o w n l ies o n t h e s ide of a h i l l , ful ly e x p o s e d to v i e w f rom ves se l s r i d i n g i n t h e h a r b o r . T h e c o u n t r y a r o u n d is m o u n t a i n o u s a n d is n o w suffer ing f r o m e x c e s s i v e d r o u g h t .

O n t h e m o r n i n g of T h i r d m o n t h 1 6 t h , t h e m o u n t a i n s of J a m a i c a w e r e in s i g h t . T h e c l o u d s w e r e r e s t i n g o n t he i r s u m m i t s . W e m a d e t h e h a r b o r of K i n g s t o n b y n o o n , a n d w e r e l a n d e d b y a s m a l l b o a t , in a n e x c e e d i n g l y r o u g h s ea . F o r a w h i l e t h e p r o s p e c t of a s a l e l a n d i n g w a s e x t r e m e l y d o u b t f u l , o w i n g to o u r q u a r r e l s o m e b o a t m e n . T h e m o d e of l a n d i n g p a s s e n g e r s f rom t h e s e s t e a m e r s is v e r y r e p r e h e n s i b l e . I n s t e a d of b e i n g p u t on s h o r e b y t h e p r o p e r officers of t h e


vesse l , t h e y a r e left to m a k e t h e b e s t b a r g a i n t h e y c a n w i t h t h e o w n e r s of s m a l l b o a t s , w h o c o m e a l o n g s ide a s s o o n a s a s t e a m e r c o m e s i n p o r t . T h e s e , in t h e i r e a g e r n e s s to ge t p a s s e n g e r s a n d b a g g a g e i n t h e i r b o a t s , fall in to str ife a n d c o n t e n t i o n a m o n g t h e m s e l v e s , a n d w h e n t h e s e a is r o u g h , a s it w a s o n th i s o c c a s i o n , it is v e r y m u c h to t h e a n n o y a n c e a n d d a n g e r of t h o s e o n b o a r d .

J A M A I C A — V O Y A G E H O M E .

W e h a d le t t e r s to s e v e r a l p e r s o n s in K i n g s t o n , w h o r e c e i v e d u s k i n d l y , w i t h offers to p r o m o t e t h e object of o u r vis i t . A s w e a p p r o a c h e d t h i s I s l a n d , w e n o t i c e d t h e a p p e a r a n c e of e x c e s s i v e d r o u g h t , a n d w e find t h a t o n s o m e p a r t s of t h e I s l a n d it h a s la id w a s t e t h e p l a n t e r ' s p r o s p e c t s for th i s y e a r , a n d m u s t affect v e r y m a t e r i a l l y t h e c r o p for t h e n e x t , e v e n s h o u l d t h e y h a v e s e a s o n a b l e r a i n s . S ince F i f th m o n t h las t , ( a l m o s t t en m o n t h s , ) b u t v e r y l i t t le r a i n h a s fa l len u p o n th i s p a r t of t h e I s l a n d . S e v e r a l of t h e s u g a r e s t a t e s i n o n e s ec t i on , w h i c h h a v e g e n e r a l l y f u r n i s h e d a b o u t five t h o u s a n d h o g s h e a d s , w i l l n o t r e a l i z e m o r e t h a n five h u n d r e d th i s y e a r .

K i n g s t o n is a n o ld f a s h i o n e d t o w n , h o t a n d d u s t y . T h e n u m b e r of i n h a b i t a n t s is s u p p o s e d to b e a b o u t for ty t h o u s a n d . I t c o v e r s a l a r g e a r e a , v e r y m a n y of t h e finer h o u s e s b e i n g s u r r o u n d e d b y g a r d e n s .

W e v i s i t ed t h e h o u s e of co r rec t ion i n c o m p a n y w i t h J o h n D o u g h t e r y , t h e i n s p e c t o r of t h e


I s l a n d p r i s o n s . T h e in s t i t u t ion is k e p t in e x ce l l en t o r d e r , a n d m a n y i m p r o v e m e n t s a r e b e i n g m a d e . T w o h u n d r e d a n d n i n e t y - o n e p e r s o n s w e r e conf ined t h e r e , m o s t of t h e m b e i n g s e n t e n c e d for p e t t y thef ts . T h e y a r e k e p t a t w o r k d r e s s i n g s tone for b u i l d i n g , a n d b r e a k i n g it for M a c a d a m i z i n g . F i v e w o m e n o n l y a r e a m o n g t h e n u m b e r . A hosp i t a l for i n d i g e n t i n v a l i d s is c o n t i g u o u s , w h e r e p o o r h u m a n n a t u r e is s e e n t o r t u r e d a n d w a s t e d b y s e v e r a l h i t h e r t o i n c u r a b l e m a l a d i e s . T h e l e p e r w a s t h e r e , w i t h his l o a t h s o m e sca les p e e l i n g f rom h i s b u r n i n g l i m b s . T h e a p a r t m e n t s in w h i c h t h e s e w e r e p l a c e d , w e r e l o w a n d conf ined , a n d t o t a l l y u n s u i t e d for t h e ob jec t e i t he r of comfor t o r c u r e .

A s i n g u l a r d i s e a s e , a n d o n e c o n s i d e r e d h i g h l y in fec t ious a s w e l l a s i n c u r a b l e , w e o b s e r v e d i n a p o o r c r e a t u r e i n a s e c l u d e d a p a r t m e n t , s u r r o u n d e d b y a h i g h w a l l ; it is ca l l ed t h e y a w s , ( a n A f r i c a n n a m e . ) T h i s h o r r i b l e d i sease g e n e r a l l y c o m m e n c e s u p o n t h e t o e s . T h e flesh d e c a y s , t h e b o n e s b e c o m e c a r i o u s a n d m o u l d e r off, p r o g r e s s i n g u n t i l a n e n t i r e l i m b is c o n s u m e d , a n d c o n t i n u i n g its r a v a g e s u p o n t h e b o d y r e a c h e s t h e v i t a l s , a n d t h u s t e r m i n a t e s t h e suffer ings of i t s w r e t c h e d v i c t i m s . N o m e a n s h a v e b e e n f o u n d a s y e t to a r r e s t t h i s d r ead fu l m a l a d y .

F r o m th i s s c e n e of m i s e r y a n d w r e t c h e d n e s s w e t u r n e d a n d m a d e a p l e a s a n t vis i t to t h e M i c o schoo l s , u n d e r t h e s u p e r i n t e n d e n c e of J . M . S w i n e y . T h i s e s t a b l i s h m e n t is pa r t l y d e v o t e d to t h e i n s t r u c t i o n of y o u n g m e n a n d w o m e n for t e a c h e r s , w h o b o a r d in t h e h o u s e . A j u v e n i l e a n d a n in fan t d a y schoo l a r e a t t a c h e d .


T h e n u m b e r of s c h o l a r s in t h e j u v e n i l e d e p a r t m e n t w a s a b o u t s e v e n t y - f i v e , a n d in t h e in fan t s c h o o l , a b o u t o n e h u n d r e d a n d t w e n t y . W e w e r e m u c h p l e a s e d w i t h t h e m a n n e r in w h i c h t h e c h i l d r e n w e n t t h r o u g h t he i r school e x e r c i s e s .

W e find h e r e , a s w e f o u n d in B a r b a d o s , t h a t t h e e p i s c o p a l b i s h o p a n d h i s m i n i s t e r s u n i t e i n o p p o s i t i o n to t h i s schoo l , a n d a r e c o n t i n u a l l y u s i n g efforts to d r a w t h e c h i l d r e n to t h e i r o w n s e c t a r i a n e s t a b l i s h m e n t s . A free u n b i a s s e d e d u c a t i o n d o e s n o t c o m e w i t h i n t h e s c o p e of t he i r b e n e v o l e n c e o r t he i r c r e e d .

W e he ld a m e e t i n g in t h e s u b u r b s of t h e c i t y , w h i c h w a s l a r g e a n d sa t i s f ac to ry ; g r e a t s o l e m n i t y a n d o r d e r p r e v a i l e d .

H a v i n g a w i s h t o h o l d a m e e t i n g w i t h t h e p r i s o n e r s a t t h e h o u s e of c o r r e c t i o n , w e ca l l ed u p o n t h e m a y o r , H e c t o r M i t c h e l l , in c o m p a n y w i t h E d w a r d J o r d a n , a co lo red m a n , a n d a n e d i t o r of o n e of t he p u b l i c p a p e r s . T h e m a y o r a p p e a r e d to b e in a v e r y i r r i t ab l e s t a t e of m i n d , a n d t r e a t e d u s w i t h g r e a t inc iv i l i ty , r e fus ing h i s p e r m i s s i o n , to t h e g r e a t d i ssa t i s fac t ion of o u r f r i end J o r d a n a n d i n s p e c t o r D o u g h t e r y . H e offered, a s a r e a s o n for h i s r e fusa l , t h a t a m p l e p r o v i s i o n w a s a l r e a d y m a d e b y t h e g o v e r n m e n t for t h e r e l ig ious i n s t ruc t i on of t he p r i s o n e r s , a n d t h a t t h e p r o p e r l y a u t h o r i z e d c l e r g y r e g u l a r l y officiated t h e r e .

T h e i n f o r m a t i o n w e r e c e i v e d f rom al l p a r t i e s is v e r y e n c o u r a g i n g , so far a s it r e g a r d s t h e a d v a n t a g e s of free a n d r e q u i t e d l a b o r o v e r u n p a i d to i l . F r o m t h e a c c o u n t s f u r n i s h e d u s , w e s h o u l d b e l i e v e t h a t e m a n c i p a t i o n is n o w w o r k i n g a s


w e l l u p o n th i s I s l a n d , a s u p o n t h e o t h e r s to w i n d w a r d . M a n y of t h e difficulties w h i c h p r o d u c e d i r r i t a t ion , b o t h in p l a n t e r a n d l a b o r e r , h a v e b e e n a d j u s t e d , a n d w e c a n n o t b u t h o p e t h a t in p r o c e s s of t i m e a l l t h a t h a s e n g e n d e r e d str i fe a n d c o n t e n t i o n wi l l b e r e m o v e d .

T h e c h a n g e f r o m s l a v e r y to f r e e d o m , h a s b e e n a g r e a t a n d i m p o r t a n t o n e ; a n d it m i g h t b e e x p e c t e d t h a t s o m e difficulties w o u l d a r i s e o u t of t h e conf l ic t ing i n t e r e s t s of so m a n y . I t i s t r u l y g r a t i f y i n g to see t h e s e difficulties s u b s i d i n g , a n d to w i t n e s s a d i spos i t ion o n t h e p a r t of b o t h t h e p l a n t e r s a n d l a b o r e r s to r e m o v e t h e c a u s e s of t h e m .

B e l i e v i n g o u r r e l i g i o u s l a b o r s w e r e a b o u t d r a w i n g to a c lose in t h e s e p a r t s , a n d a ves se l b e i n g i n p o r t a b o u t to sa i l for N e w Y o r k , w e felt a t l i be r t y to e n g a g e o u r p a s s a g e h o m e .

P r e v i o u s to o u r d e p a r t u r e , w e h e l d a m e e t i n g in t h e Sco tch P r e s b y t e r i a n m e e t i n g h o u s e , w h i c h h a d b e e n freely offered u s to h o l d m e e t i n g s i n w h i l e in K i n g s t o n . T h i s m e e t i n g w a s h e l d o n t h e a f t e r n o o n of F i r s t - d a y , a n d w a s a t t e n d e d b y a l a r g e c o n c o u r s e of p e o p l e .

W e w e r e e n a b l e d to d e c l a r e o u r be l ie f i n t h e p r a c t i c a l o p e r a t i o n of t h e " gospe l of C h r i s t " a s t h e " p o w e r of G o d " in c h a n g i n g t h e c o n d i t i on of m a n f rom t h e i m a g e of t h e e a r t h l y , to t h e i m a g e of t h e h e a v e n l y n a t u r e , e v e n to t h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t of a g l o r i o u s k i n g d o m in t h e h e a r t s of m e n . I n w h i c h t h e a n g e l i c a n t h e m c a n b e p r o c l a i m e d , " G l o r y to G o d in t h e h i g h e s t , o n e a r t h p e a c e a n d g o o d w i l l to m e n . " T h i s w a s o u r las t r e l i g ious m e e t i n g i n t h e W e s t I n d i e s . O u r s t a y in th i s I s l a n d w a s b u t of s h o r t


d u r a t i o n , y e t w e w e r e k i n d l y r e c e i v e d . T h o s e a m o n g w h o m o u r lot w a s ca s t , m a n i f e s t e d a d e e p i n t e r e s t in t h e ob jec t of o u r v is i t , a n d w e felt w h e n t h e t i m e a r r i v e d for u s to s e p a r a t e , t h a t w e c o u l d p a r t w i t h t h e m u n d e r t h e i n f l uence of m u t u a l b r o t h e r l y affect ion a n d r e g a r d .

T h e b r i g J a m e s H a y , i n w h i c h w e h a v e e n g a g e d a p a s s a g e h a s j u s t l a n d e d a n u m b e r of co lo red so ld ie r s b r o u g h t f rom S ie r r e L e o n e . M o s t of t h e m w e r e l i b e r a t e d c a p t i v e s w h o h a d e n t e r e d t h e B r i t i s h s e r v i c e af ter b e i n g l a n d e d f rom t h e c a p t u r e d s l a v e r s . T h e i r h o m e s w e r e n o l o n g e r to b e found . T h e c o u n t r i e s w h e n c e t h e y h a d b e e n d r a g g e d , p e r h a p s h a v e n e v e r b e e n v i s i ted o r k n o w n to t h e w h i t e m a n . D e so la te a n d u n k n o w n in a l a n d of s t r a n g e r s , f ree to c h o o s e , t h e y h a v e g i v e n t h e m s e l v e s c a p t i v e a g a i n to t h e g l i t te r of t h e s o l d i e r ' s life. T h e b o u n t y of a f e w d o l l a r s h a s e n s n a r e d t h e m , a n d h e r e t h e y a r e in J a m a i c a to b e t r a i n e d for w a r .

T h e n e e d of a m i l i t a r y force to p r e s e r v e o r d e r is n o t n o w c o n s i d e r e d n e c e s s a r y , a s in t h e t i m e s of s l a v e r y ; a n d t h e a r m e d po l i ce , w h i c h , d u r i n g s l a v e r y , w a s k e p t u p on a l l t he I s l a n d s , h a s b e e n m o s t l y a b a n d o n e d . B a r b a d o s is a n e x c e p t i o n , a n d e v e n t h e r e t h e y a r e d i m i n i s h i n g its force , d i s c o v e r i n g it is n o t r e q u i r e d .

T h i s is a h a p p y o m e n , a s it s h o w s t h a t t h e fea r s w h i c h h a d b e e n m a g n i f i e d d u r i n g t h e d i s c u s s i o n of t h e g r e a t q u e s t i o n of f r e e d o m , w e r e a l t o g e t h e r g r o u n d l e s s . T h e n e g r o r a c e a r e a p e a c e - l o v i n g p e o p l e — a n d n o t o n l y p e a c e a b l e , b u t g ra t e fu l for k i n d n e s s b e s t o w e d . T h i s h a s b e e n p r o v e d b y t h e l a t e ac t of e m a n c i p a t i o n ,


a n d the fact of t h e d i s b a n d i n g of a r m e d b o d i e s w h i c h h a d l o n g b e e n k e p t u p for t h e m a i n t e n a n c e of o r d e r d u r i n g s l a v e r y , g o e s to s h o w t h a t t hose w h o s e d u t y it is to a s c e r t a i n t h e c o n d i t i o n of t he p e o p l e a r e sat isf ied it is t r u e .

Third month 22d.—After b i d d i n g f a r e w e l l t o a n u m b e r of o u r f r iends , w h o ca l l ed to see u s , w e w e n t on b o a r d the vesse l , a n d a r r a n g e d o u r s e lve s for t h e v o y a g e ; w e d r o p p e d d o w n to P o r t R o y a l before n i g h t , w h e r e w e w e r e o b l i g e d to r e m a i n till n e x t m o r n i n g , it b e i n g c o n s i d e r e d u n s a f e to g o o u t t h e h a r b o r a t n i g h t . A b o u t fifty y e a r s a g o a p o r t i o n of th i s t o w n w a s s u n k b y a n e a r t h q u a k e , — p a r t s of t h e h o u s e s , a n d t h e w a l l s of t h e fort a r e y e t to b e s e e n in a b o u t fifteen o r t w e n t y feet of w a t e r .

E a r l y in t h e m o r n i n g of t he t w e n t y - t h i r d , w e w e r e v i s i t ed b y t h e officer o n d u t y , f rom w h o m w e r e c e i v e d a c l e a r a n c e , w h e n w e w e i g h e d a n c h o r a n d s tood o u t to s ea u n d e r a l igh t b r e e z e . O u r v o y a g e w a s s o m e w h a t t e d i o u s o c c u p y i n g t w e n t y - f i v e d a y s , a n d p a r t of t h e t i m e it w a s e x c e e d i n g l y bo i s t e rous . W e p a s s e d r o u n d t h e w e s t e r n e n d of C u b a , a n d t h r o u g h t h e G u l f of F l o r i d a . D u r i n g t h e first p a r t of the v o y a g e w e suffered m u c h f rom t h e e x c e s s i v e h e a t of t h e s u n , a s w e w e r e b e c a l m e d f r e q u e n t l y b e fore w e p a s s e d t h e Gulf, a n d a s w e r e a c h e d a h i g h e r l a t i t u d e a n d n e a r e d the coas t of A m e r i c a , t h e co ld b e c a m e v e r y i n t e n s e . B u t w e m a d e l a n d in sa fe ty , a n d a r r i v e d in N e w Y o r k on t h e e v e n i n g of F o u r t h m o n t h 17 th , 1 8 4 1 , a n d r e a c h e d o u r h o m e s o n t h e fo l l owing d a y , to t h e c o n s o l a t i o n a n d j o y of o u r s e l v e s a n d fami l ies .

11


I n c o n c l u d i n g th i s n a r r a t i v e , it i s t h o u g h t p r o p e r to c o n d e n s e s o m e of t h e facts s t a t e d , i n r e fe rence to t he sub j ec t of e m a n c i p a t i o n , in o r d e r to p r e s e n t , in a b r ie f m a n n e r , a n a n s w e r to t h e f o l l o w i n g q u e r i e s , w h i c h h a v e b e e n p r o p o u n d e d b y a f r iend i n V i r g i n i a .

Quere first.—What I s l a n d s d i d y o u vis i t , a n d w h e n ?

S a n t a C r u z , St . T h o m a s , T o r t o l a , V i r g i n G o r -d a , St . C h r i s t o p h e r s , A n t i g u a , B a r b a d o s , T r i n i d a d , a n d J a m a i c a . T h e vis i t w a s p e r f o r m e d in t h e l a t t e r p a r t of 1 8 4 0 , a n d t h e b e g i n n i n g of 1 8 4 1 .

Second.—What w e r e t h e m e a s u r e s a d o p t e d b y t h e B r i t i s h G o v e r n m e n t for e m a n c i p a t i n g t h e s l a v e s ?

T h e m e a s u r e s w e r e b y p u r c h a s e a n d a p p r e n t i c e sh ip . £ 2 0 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 w e r e a p p r o p r i a t e d for t h i s objec t . T h e p r e l i m i n a r y s t ep w a s a s y s t e m of a p p r e n t i c e s h i p , w h i c h , o n b e i n g b r o u g h t i n to o p e r a t i o n , d id no t p r o v e a s benef ic ia l to e i t he r p l a n t e r o r l a b o r e r , a s i ts p ro j ec to r s a n t i c i p a t e d . T h e ac t of e m a n c i p a t i o n g i v i n g t h e co lon ie s t h e p r i v i l e g e of c h o i c e ; A n t i g u a a n d B e r m u d a , r e j e c t e d t h e a p p r e n t i c e s h i p s c h e m e , a n d g a v e i m m e d i a t e a n d u n c o n d i t i o n a l f r e e d o m to t h e i r s l a v e s . T h e o t h e r co lon ies a d o p t e d t h e a p p r e n t i cesh ip s y s t e m , b u t f ind ing its o p e r a t i o n s m a n i fest ly i n ju r ious , b y l eg i s l a t ive e n a c t m e n t s h o r t e n e d t h e pe r iod t w o y e a r s .

Third.—What w e r e t h e g e n e r a l effects of t h e s e m e a s u r e s a s s t a t e d b y t h e P l a n t e r s , M a g i s t r a t e s , or G o v e r n o r s ?

F r o m t h e bes t i n f o r m a t i o n w e w e r e a b l e to o b t a i n f rom t h e p l a n t e r s a n d o t h e r s , w e feel n o


h e s i t a t i o n in s a y i n g , t h a t t h e m e a s u r e of f reed o m h a s b e e n h i g h l y sa t i s fac to ry a n d s a l u t a r y . T h i s w a s t h e g e n e r a l t e s t i m o n y u p o n e v e r y i s l a n d — w e m e t w i t h n o p l a n t e r w i l l i ng to r e t u r n a g a i n to t h e h a r d s e r v i t u d e of a s l a v e h o l d e r . T h e d e c l a r a t i o n of f r e e d o m w a s c o n s i d e r e d a b l e s s ing , b o t h to m a s t e r a n d s l a v e .

Fourth.—In t h o s e I s l a n d s w h e r e t h e a p p r e n t i cesh ip s y s t e m w a s a d o p t e d , d id t h e y find it m o r e a d v a n t a g e o u s t h a n i m m e d i a t e e m a n c i p a t ion a s a d o p t e d in A n t i g u a ?

T h e y d id n o t . T h e t e s t i m o n y in S t . K i t t s w e n t to p r o v e , t h a t if t h e y h a d c a r r i e d o u t t h e a p p r e n t i c e s h i p s y s t e m for t h e full t e r m p r e s c r i b e d , it w o u l d h a v e b e e n t h e r u i n of m a n y p l a n t e r s u p o n the I s l a n d . T h e g e n e r a l s e n t i m e n t g i v e n to u s w a s , t h a t t h e a p p r e n t i c e s h i p s y s t e m w a s a fa i lu re . A n t i g u a a n d B e r m u d a p r o c l a i m e d l i be r t y u n c o n d i t i o n a l t o a l l t h e i r s l a v e s . T h e c o n s e q u e n c e s r e s u l t i n g h a v e b e e n a m a r k e d a n d d e c i d e d a d v a n t a g e to al l p a r t i e s in t h o s e I s l a n d s .

Fifth.—Has r e a l e s t a t e r i s e n in v a l u e s ince e m a n c i p a t i o n ?

I t wil l be p e r c e i v e d f rom t h e n a r r a t i v e t h a t r e a l e s t a t e h a s a d v a n c e d c o n s i d e r a b l y i n v a l u e . I n m a n y p l a c e s t h e l a n d is n o w w o r t h a s m u c h a s b o t h l a n d a n d s l a v e s w e r e d u r i n g s l a v e r y .

Sixth.—Have t h e e x p e n s e s of c u l t i v a t i o n b e e n i n c r e a s e d or d i m i n i s h e d b y e m a n c i p a t i o n ?

W e u n d e r s t o o d f rom t h e p l a n t e r s g e n e r a l l y t h a t t h e e x p e n s e s of c u l t i v a t i o n w e r e c o n s i d e r a b l y d i m i n i s h e d . T h e r e w e r e s o m e e x c e p t i o n s , h o w e v e r to t h i s s t a t e m e n t . B u t w e f o u n d t h a t t h e r e e x i s t e d a s m u c h difference i n m a n a g e m e n t a m o n g s u g a r p l a n t e r s a s e x i s t s a m o n g o t h e r


o c c u p a t i o n s a n d p r o f e s s i o n s ; a n d of ten f rom a l a c k of o r d e r a n d e c o n o m i c a l a r r a n g e m e n t losses w e r e s u s t a i n e d , w h i c h m i g h t h a v e b e e n p r e v e n t e d b y m o r e ca re fu l a t t e n t i o n a n d c a l c u l a t i o n . S u c h i n d i v i d u a l s w o u l d tell u s t h e y w e r e losers b y f r e e d o m ; a n d t h a t t h e e x p e n s e s of c u l t i v a t i o n w e r e g r e a t e r n o w t h a n d u r i n g s l a v e r y . I n T r i n i d a d t h e r a t e of w a g e s w a s h i g h , — t h e l a b o r e r b e i n g p e r h a p s b e t t e r p a i d o n t h a t I s l a n d t h a n in a n y o t h e r c o u n t r y . C o m p l a i n t w a s m a d e b y s o m e of t h e p l a n t e r s t h a t t h e e x p e n s e s of c u l t i v a t i o n w e r e i n c r e a s e d s ince e m a n c i p a t ion . B u t t h i s pos i t i on ( e v e n w i t h t h e h i g h w a g e s g i v e n ) w a s d o u b t e d b y o t h e r s , a s t h e a m o u n t of l a b o r o b t a i n e d in a g i v e n t i m e w a s g r e a t e r n o w t h a n d u r i n g s l a v e r y ; a n d t h e e v i d e n c e s of p r o s p e r i t y u p o n a l m o s t al l t h e w o r k e d e s t a t e s w e r e c o n c l u s i v e , t h a t , w i t h t h e h i g h r a t e s of w a g e s g i v e n , n o r e a l p e c u n i a r y d i s a d v a n t a g e h a d o c c u r e d to t h e p r o p r i e t o r s . I t is t r u e t h a t t h e p r i ce of s u g a r a t t h i s t i m e is u n u s u a l l y h i g h . O n e of t he p r i n c i p a l p l a n t e r s i n T r i n i d a d i n f o r m s u s t h a t s u g a r c a n b e m a d e o n h i s e s t a t e , — w h i c h is e x c e e d i n g l y we l l m a n a g e d , — f o r five d o l l a r s t h e h u n d r e d , a n d afford a g o o d prof i t . T h e y a r e n o w r e a l i z i n g t e n do l l a r s b y t h e c a r g o .

Seventh.—Has t h e r e b e e n a n y i n s u b o r d i n a t i o n o r u n w i l l i n g n e s s to l a b o r for w a g e s , a n d a r e w a g e s h i g h ?

N o i n s u b o r d i n a t i o n h a s o c c u r r e d o n a n y of t h e I s l a n d s , a n d v e r y sa t i s fac to ry a c c o u n t s w e r e f u r n i s h e d of t h e d e p o r t m e n t of t h e l a b o r e r s , a v e r y g e n e r a l w i l l i n g n e s s to l a b o r h a v i n g b e e n m a n i f e s t e d for w h a t t h e y c o n s i d e r e d a r e a s o n -


a b l e c o m p e n s a t i o n for t he i r s e rv i ces . T h e n a r r a t ive fu rn i shes i n fo rma t ion of difficulties o c c u r r i n g occas iona l l y in B a r b a d o s ; b u t t h e s e a r o s e no t f rom w a n t of s u b o r d i n a t i o n o r w i l l i n g n e s s to l a b o r , b u t f rom u n j u s t e x a c t i o n s b y t h e i r e m p l o y e r s .

T h e same.diff icul t ies o c c u r r e d in J a m a i c a f rom t h e s a m e c a u s e s ; b u t t h e s e , w e w e r e i n f o r m e d , h a d g e n e r a l l y b e e n a d j u s t e d to sa t i s fac t ion .

W a g e s i n T o r t o l a , t w e l v e a n d a h a l f c en t s p e r d a y , — h o u s e s a n d g r o u n d s f u r n i s h e d r e n t f r e e , — w i t h p r i v i l e g e of k e e p i n g c o w s , g o a t s , s w i n e , p o u l t r y , &c.

I n V i r g i n G o r d a , a t t h e c o p p e r m i n e , f rom t h i r t y to fifty c e n t s p e r d a y .

I n St. C h r i s t o p h e r s , t w e n t y c e n t s t h e t a s k , w h i c h t a s k c o u l d b e finished b y a n i n d u s t r i o u s h a n d b y t e n or e l e v e n o ' c lock in t h e m o r n i n g . T h e r e h a d b e e n a n u n w i l l i n g n e s s to d o m o r e t h a n o n e t a s k p e r d a y , a n d th i s w a s chee r fu l ly per for m e d . T h e r e m a i n d e r of t h e d a y t h e y s o m e t i m e s w o r k e d in t he i r o w n g r o u n d s . H o u s e s a n d lots of g r o u n d f u r n i s h e d r e n t f ree , w i t h t h e u s u a l p r i v i l e g e s of k e e p i n g ca t t l e , p o u l t r y , &c.

I n A n t i g u a , f rom t w e n t y to t w e n t y - f i v e cen t s p e r t a s k : t w o c o u l d b e c o m p l e t e d b y o n e or t w o o ' c lock in t h e a f t e r n o o n , w h i c h w a s g e n e r a l l y d o n e .

I n B a r b a d o s , t h e p r o p r i e t o r s a l l o w t h i r t y c e n t s p e r d a y , d e d u c t i n g t e n c e n t s for r e n t of h o u s e s , g r o u n d s , &c. T h i s r e n t is t a k e n f r o m e v e r y w o r k i n g m e m b e r of t h e f ami ly w h o m a y i n h a b i t t h e c o t t a g e ; t h e h u s b a n d , w i f e , a n d c h i l d r e n w h o l a b o r , p a y i n g e q u a l r e n t . T h i s o n e r o u s e x a c t i o n c a u s e d m a n y difficulties a n d h e a r t - b u r n i n g s . T h e c o t t a g e w i t h four w o r k -

1 1 *


i n g i n m a t e s p a y i n g four t i m e s m o r e r e n t t h a n o n e of e q u a l c o n d i t i o n w h e r e t h e h u s b a n d of t h e f ami ly i n h a b i t i n g is t h e o n l y l a b o r e r .

I n T r i n i d a d , fifty c e n t s p e r t a s k w a s g i v e n . T h i s t a s k c o u l d b e c o m p l e t e d b y t h e i n d u s t r i o u s l a b o r e r s b y n o o n . T w o t a s k s , a n d e v e n t h r e e s o m e t i m e s , w e r e p e r f o r m e d d u r i n g t h e d a y , b y t h e m o r e i n d u s t r i o u s . H o u s e s a n d g r o u n d s f u r n i s h e d r e n t free, w i t h t h e p r i v i l e g e of k e e p ing c o w s , s w i n e , p o u l t r y , &c. E m i g r a n t s f rom t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , in a d d i t i o n to t h e s e m o n e y w a g e s , w e r e f u r n i s h e d w i t h r a t i o n s of flour, p o r k , fish, s u g a r , m o l a s s e s , a n d of ten w i t h r u m , a n d w i t h m e d i c a l a t t e n d a n c e . T h e s e r a t i o n s v a r i e d u p o n different e s t a t e s .

D u r i n g c r o p t i m e t h e w o r k m e n a t t h e mi l ls a n d b o i l i n g h o u s e s g e n e r a l l y r e c e i v e f r o m s e v e n t y c e n t s to o n e do l l a r p e r d a y , w i t h a l l o w a n c e of s u g a r a n d m o l a s s e s .

A m e r i c a n s c o n t r a c t i n g to d o r o a d w o r k a r e w e l l p a i d , — a s h i g h a s e l e v e n do l l a r s p e r o n e h u n d r e d feet h a v i n g b e e n a l l o w e d . T h i s , i n s o m e i n s t a n c e s , h a s b e e n let o u t to s u b - c o n t r a c t o r s , w h o c a n g e n e r a l l y finish o n e h u n d r e d feet p e r d a y , for w h i c h t h e y r e c e i v e t h r e e do l l a r s . A b o u t t h i r t y A m e r i c a n s a r e n o w e m p l o y e d a t t h e s e h i g h w a g e s , o n t h e r o a d s n e a r S a n F e r n a n d o .

O n O r a n g e G r o v e , e s t a t e of W m . H . B u r n l e y , s i x t y cen t s p e r t a s k is p a i d ; g e n e r a l l y o n e p e r f o r m e d in t h e d a y ; a n d d u r i n g c r o p , f rom s e v e n t y cen t s to o n e do l l a r p e r d a y a t t h e mi l l s a n d bo i l i ng h o u s e .

W a g e s , it w i l l b e p e r c e i v e d b y t h e a b o v e s t a t e m e n t s , w e r e h i g h , a n d t h e s e r a t e s w e r e


p a i d t h r o u g h o u t t h e c o l o n y . R a t i o n s w e r e n o t fu rn i shed t h e n a t i v e l a b o r e r s , u n l e s s it w a s a n a l l o w a n c e of r u m , w h i c h h a s b e e n a s e r ious evi l . T h e A m e r i c a n s , to t he i r c r e d i t , v e r y f r e q u e n t l y r e fused t h e r u m , — r e c e i v i n g p r o v i s i o n s in its s t ead .

T h e s e w a g e s a r e n o w c o n s i d e r e d enormously high, a n d y e t t h e t a s k h a s b e e n r e g u l a t e d b y w h a t a s l a v e w a s f o r m e r l y c o n s i d e r e d a b l e to d o ; t h u s f u r n i s h i n g a s t r i k i n g e x a m p l e of t h e a d v a n t a g e s of free a n d p a i d l a b o r o v e r t h e u n r e q u i t e d l a b o r of s l a v e s . U n d e r t h e p r e s e n t s y s t e m t h e y m u s t n e c e s s a r i l y d i m i n i s h ; c o m p e t i t ion w i l l soon r e d u c e t h e r a t e of w a g e s in T r i n i d a d to t h e g e n e r a l s t a n d a r d o n t h e o t h e r I s l a n d s .

I n J a m a i c a , o u r s t a y b e i n g s h o r t , w e h a d o p p o r t u n i t y of m a k i n g b u t f ew e n q u i r i e s . W a g e s v a r y s o m e o n th i s I s l a n d . W h e n t a s k w o r k is p e r f o r m e d , f rom t w e n t y to t w e n t y - f i v e c e n t s is a l l o w e d ; t w o of t h e s e c a n b e a c c o m p l i s h e d d u r i n g t h e d a y . F o r c o t t a g e s a n d g r o u n d s , r e n t s a r e g e n e r a l l y c h a r g e d r a t i n g a b o u t fifty c e n t s p e r w e e k .

T h e l e v y i n g of r e n t s for c o t t a g e s , & c , w i t h e j e c t m e n t s for n o n - c o n f o r m i t y to e m p l o y e r s ' t e r m s , h a v e b e e n t h e p r i n c i p a l c a u s e s of d i s sa t i s fac t ion a m o n g l a b o r e r s u p o n th i s I s l a n d . B u t t h e s e difficulties h a v e , in m o s t i n s t a n c e s , b e e n a d j u s t e d , a n d a p r o s p e c t of i n c r e a s i n g sa t i s fac t ion is e x h i b i t e d a m o n g all p a r t i e s c o n c e r n e d .

Eighth,—Have c r i m e s i n c r e a s e d or d i m i n i s h ed ?

F r o m e x a m i n a t i o n s m a d e of t h e p r i s o n r e c o r d s in n e a r l y all t h e I s l a n d s , a n d f rom tes t i m o n y g i v e n b y j u d g e s , m a g i s t r a t e s , a n d o t h e r s c o n c e r n e d , w e h a v e the p l e a s i n g i n f o r m a t i o n to


g i v e , t h a t c r i m e s h a v e g r e a t l y d i m i n i s h e d s ince e m a n c i p a t i o n . M o s t of t h e c o m m i t m e n t s w e r e for p e t t y thef t s , a n d a s s a u l t s a n d b a t t e r i e s a m o n g t h e l a b o r e r s .

Ninth.—Is a s t a n d i n g a r m y found a s n e c e s s a r y n o w a s it w a s be fo re e m a n c i p a t i o n ?

N o r e g u l a r s t a n d i n g a r m y c a n b e sa id to b e k e p t u p on a n y of t h e I s l a n d s , h a v i n g r e f e r ence t o s e c u r i t y f rom the l a b o r e r s , s ince e m a n c i p a t i o n . A t B a r b a d o s a n d J a m a i c a t r o o p s a r e q u a r t e r e d , b u t o n t h e s e I s l a n d s t h e r e a r e m i l i t a r y a n d n a v a l d e p o t s for o p e r a t i o n s c o n n e c t e d w i t h t h e G e n e r a l G o v e r n m e n t , a n d n o t p a r t i c u l a r l y for i n t e r n a l co lon ia l s e c u r i t y . T h e t r a i n e d t o w n a n d r u r a l po l i ce , w h i c h w e r e e s t a b l i s h e d o n s e v e r a l I s l a n d s , a n d c o n t i n u e d af ter e m a n c i p a t i on , in a n t i c i p a t i o n of difficulties, w e r e f o u n d u n n e c e s s a r y . T h e y h a v e s ince b e e n c u r t a i l e d to a s m a l l force , or d i s c o n t i n u e d .

Tenth.—Is it s u p p o s e d t h a t t h e i n t e l l e c t u a l a n d m o r a l c o n d i t i o n of t h e co lo red p o p u l a t i o n be fo re e m a n c i p a t i o n w a s s u p e r i o r to t h a t of t h e s l a v e s in M a r y l a n d a n d V i r g i n i a ?

F r o m o b s e r v a t i o n s m a d e in t r a v e l l i n g t h r o u g h p a r t s of M a r y l a n d a n d V i r g i n i a , w e s h o u l d s u p p o s e , in g e n e r a l , t h a t t h e m o r a l a n d in t e l l e c t u a l c h a r a c t e r o f t h e s l a v e s w a s in a d v a n c e of t h e W e s t I n d i a l a b o r e r s . I n A n t i g u a o p p o r t u n i t i e s for m o r a l a n d in te l l ec tua l c u l t u r e h a d b e e n afforded freely for s e v e r a l y e a r s be fo re e m a t i c i p a t i o n b y s e v e r a l r e l i g ious sec ts . I n T r i n i d a d t h e y a r e e v i d e n t l y far b e h i n d . E m i g r a n t s w h o h a v e g o n e f rom M a r y l a n d a n d V i r g i n i a , a r e c o n s i d e r e d in T r i n i d a d far in a d v a n c e , i n t he se r e s p e c t s , of t h e n a t i v e l a b o r e r s .


Eleventh.—Has t h e r e b e e n a n y d e c i d e d i m p r o v e m e n t in t h e soc ia l , m o r a l , a n d r e l i g ious c o n d i t i o n of t h e p o p u l a t i o n ?

I t w a s t h e u n i v e r s a l t e s t i m o n y of t h e schoo l a n d r e l i g ious t e a c h e r s , t h e p l a n t e r s a n d m a g i s t r a t e s , a n d t hose h a v i n g o p p o r t u n i t i e s for o b s e r v a t i o n , t h a t a g r e a t i m p r o v e m e n t h a s t a k e n p l a c e ; a n d f rom t h e a c t i v e e x e r t i o n s t h a t a r e n o w m a k i n g , th i s i m p r o v e m e n t wi l l u n q u e s t i o n a b l y c o n t i n u e to man i f e s t itself.

Schoo l s a r e b e i n g e s t a b l i s h e d t h r o u g h o u t a l l t h e i s l a n d s ; w o r s h i p h o u s e s a r e b e i n g e r e c t e d t o a c c o m m o d a t e t h e n u m b e r s t h a t h a v e a t t a c h e d t h e m s e l v e s to r e l ig ious c o n g r e g a t i o n s ; b e n e ficial socie t ies a r e f o r m e d ; m a r r i a g e s a r e n o w g e n e r a l l y s o l e m n i z e d ; t h e d u t i e s of h u s b a n d a n d w i f e , of p a r e n t s a n d c h i l d r e n , a r e b e i n g b e t t e r u n d e r s t o o d ; a n d , in g e n e r a l , t h e socia l c o n d i t i o n is i m p r o v i n g , a n d h a s , u p to t h e p r e s e n t p e r i o d , v a s t l y i m p r o v e d , f rom its l o w s t a t e f o u n d u n d e r s l a v e r y .

Twelfth.—Do t h e loca l g o v e r n m e n t s in t h e W e s t I n d i e s w i s h to e x p a t r i a t e t h e e m a n c i p a t e d s l a v e s , in o r d e r to s u p p l y the i r p l ace s w i t h w h i t e l a b o r e r s ?

N o . Thirteenth.—Are t h e r e a n y o t h e r c i r c u m

s t a n c e s , a t t e n d i n g t h e e m a n c i p a t i o n of t h e s l a v e s i n t he B r i t i s h I s l a n d s , t h a t w o u l d b e i n t e r e s t i n g t o t h e A m e r i c a n p e o p l e ?

O n e d e e p l y i n t e r e s t i n g f e a t u r e is t h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t of i n d e p e n d e n t f a r m i n g v i l l ages . T h e p l o t s of g r o u n d , v a r y i n g f rom a q u a r t e r of a n a c r e to t en a c r e s , h a v i n g b e e n p u r c h a s e d b y the s a v i n g s of t h e f reed l a b o r e r s ince t h e d a t e of

130 N A R R A T I V E , E T C .

h i s e m a n c i p a t i o n , a u g u r w e l l for t h e i r e c o n o m y a n d thrif t . N e a t h o u s e s a r e bu i l t u p o n t h e s e g r o u n d s , a n d , in A n t i g u a , f r e q u e n t l y of h e w n s t o n e . T h e s e l i t t le f a r m s a r e we l l c u l t i v a t e d , w i t h e v e r y v a r i e t y of v e g e t a b l e s r a i s e d u p o n t h e i s l a n d s ; s o m e w i t h c a n e , w h i c h is e i t h e r sold to t h e n e i g h b o r i n g p l a n t e r , o r c a r r i e d i n s m a l l b u n d l e s , w i t h the i r v e g e t a b l e s , to m a r k e t . T h e i n h a b i t a n t s of t h e s e free v i l l a g e s f o r m w o r k i n g b a n d s , w h o h i r e t h e m s e l v e s b y t h e j o b to t h e n e i g h b o r i n g p l a n t e r . T h e y h a v e b e e n f o u n d e x c e e d i n g l y s e r v i c e a b l e ; for, w h e n h u r r i e d , t h e p l a n t e r h a s b u t to c o n t r a c t w i t h t h e s e a s soc ia t ions , a n d h i s w o r k wi l l b e p r o m p t l y a n d sa t i s fac tor i ly a c c o m p l i s h e d , in g e n e r a l , w i t h n o e x t r a e x p e n s e , a n d f r e q u e n t l y w i t h less t h a n w h e n h i r e i n g i n t h e u s u a l m a n n e r .

T h e d i s t inc t ion r e s u l t i n g f rom difference of color is fast w e a r i n g a w a y . T h e co lo red m a n s t a n d s u p o n a n e q u a l i t y w i t h t h e w h i t e i n h i s pol i t ica l p r i v i l e g e s ; h a v i n g all t h e f r anch i ses a n d l iber t i es , c o n n e c t e d w i t h a r e p r e s e n t a t i o n i n t h e co lon ia l l e g i s l a t u r e , a s h i s w h i t e n e i g h b o r a n d e m p l o y e r . M a n y t a l e n t e d co lo red m e n a r e n o w e m p l o y e d , o n a l m o s t e v e r y i s l and , i n v a r i o u s s t a t i ons u n d e r g o v e r n m e n t ; a n d , a s far a s w e cou ld l e a r n , p e r f o r m e d the i r p a r t to t h e sa t i s fac t ion of a l l c o n c e r n e d .

T h e i n c r e a s e of schoo l s , a n d t h e p r e v a i l i n g d e s i r e o n t h e p a r t of p a r e n t s for t he i r c h i l d r e n t o b e i n s t r u c t e d , a r e c h e e r i n g facts , f u r n i s h i n g s t r o n g g r o u n d for bel ief t h a t a hopefu l p r o g r e s s is n o w m a k i n g , a n d wi l l c o n t i n u e to b e m a d e , b y t he p r e s e n t a n d s u c c e e d i n g g e n e r a t i o n s .

narrative of a visit to the west indies : in 1840 and 1841

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