Land of Pagodas 1

Myanmar Land of Pagodas

Myanmar 2

Our CEO and watchful

guide Akayi (rhymes

with bakery)

Land of Pagodas 3

Myanmar As its future unfolds, Myanmar remains rooted

in history and tradition from the depths of time.

Myanmar is poised on the brink of new

possibilities, a mingling of what was and what

will be. Myanmar and its people face many

challenges from changing governing paradigms

to coping with the pressures of increasing

tourism.

This volume is an account of an adventure

through the heart of Myanmar, exploring the

land and meeting the people who stand ready to

embrace the future while honouring the past.

Myanmar is the Land of the Pagoda. Pagodas,

or temples, dot the landscape in numbers too

great to count or fully appreciate. Wherever one

turns in this land, it is rare to miss seeing

pagoda after pagoda. Ancient pagodas stand

next to new pagodas in testament to a faith that

permeates the fabric of the people.

Our journey begins in Yangon and extends to

Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake, Kalaw and back to

Yangon. Each stop on the adventure adds to our

understanding of the culture of this peaceful

land. Tranquility, tinged with excitement, are

the watchwords for one who travels here.

Our band of travellers hale from Canada, the

UK, the USA, and Ireland and were all brought

together by National Geographic Journeys with

G Adventures. Akayi, our Chief Experience

Officer and guide, provided a wealth of

knowledge and inspiration, educating us in the

history of the land and the culture and customs

of the people of Myanmar.

So as they say in Myanmar... Mingalabar.

Myanmar 4

Yangon

Yangon, the capital of Myanmar,

is a modern city where colonial

buildings mix with historic

pagodas and the architecture of

the 21st century. The city bustles

with traffic like other cities and

towns in Southeast Asia, with the

exception of motor bikes which are

remarkably absent from the

streets owing to a decree by the

previous government. Unlike

other places in Southeast Asia,

the traffic moves at a comparatively less frantic pace although pedestrians still need to be alert

and choose their street crossings

carefully.

Yangon gives us our first look at a

striking oddity - the number of right-

hand drive vehicles in a country that

drives on the right-hand side of the

road. This seeming paradox resulted from a

government decision and was enacted over night.

While no one truly knows the origin of the idea, it

did open up a new occupation, the position of

assistant bus driver. The assistant driver sits on the

left where he or she can see down the road to advise

the head driver when it is safe to pass. Drivers of

smaller vehicles rely on the horn to indicate their

intentions. Somehow, it all works out.

Land of Pagodas 5

Here, as elsewhere, one finds the traditional longyi, the wrap

around garment worn by women and men in lieu of pants,

along side western style clothing.

Travelers and residents are never far from open air markets

and cafes common throughout Myanmar.

Buddhist monks and nuns are a common sight in

Yangon and throughout Myanmar. Robed in saffron or

pink the older disciples move with a serenity that is

symbolic of a peaceful and beautiful culture. Young

novices can be seen running and skipping with

excitement that reflects

the revival of their

nation.

We will return to

Yangon at the end of

this story to visit

Myanmar’s largest

pagoda.

There are approximately 500,000 monks and

some 50,000 nuns in Myanmar… more or less.

Myanmar 6

Mandalay

This former capital city, the last Royal City in Burma, was founded in 1857 by King Mindon.

Named because of its location at the foot of Mandalay Hill, in central Myanmar, the royal city

was originally named Yadanabon meaning "City of Gems." It was also called Lay Kyun Aung

Mye, "Victorious Land over the Four Islands.” Mandalay is still considered to be the cultural

centre of Myanmar. In the heart of the city is the “Famed Royal Emerald Palace,” historic home

of Burma’s royal family. As kingdom gave way to republic, the Royal City became a military

enclave.

The city is also home-base for travelers visiting

Mandalay Hill and the islands and lakes nearby.

The royal palace occupies 413-hectares

surrounded by four 2,032 meter long walls and a

moat 64 meters wide and 4.6 meters deep. The

eastern moat aligns with the Su Taung Pyi

Pagoda on Mandalay Hill.

Land of Pagodas 7

Mandalay is home to many cultural artisans who make

traditional carvings, statues, and exquisite tapestries. Sitting

on their heels, artisans release images from blocks of wood.

Finished carvings are either polished or gilded. It’s delicate

work made easy at the hands of masters of the art.

Myanmar 8

Mandalay’s Maha Myat Muni Pagoda gave us our first immersion

into the life of a large, vibrant pagoda. Like all pagodas Maha

Myat Muni is a place of reverence for the Buddha, so shoulders

and knees are covered and shoes and socks are left at the door to

be recovered later. Walking barefoot through halls and courtyards

with other pilgrims we merged into the past, present and future of

the culture of Myanmar.

Pilgrims offer prayers and wishes to the Buddha images in and

around the central pagoda. A central tradition at Maha Myat

Muni is the adornment of the pagoda’s focal Buddha image with

gold leaf. Male

visitors can

approach this

Buddha image

to add to the

layers of gold

which adorn the

statue. Thus,

the image grows

larger as time

passes.

A testament to the

adaptability of Buddhism in

Myanmar, monks who follow

the 2500 year old teachings of

the Buddha are often seen

carrying the latest 21st

century devices.

Young novices are often seen

walking arm in arm and

exploring relics of their faith.

The Buddha image at the heart of Maha Myat Muni is thought to be one of five images created during

the life of the Buddha. Buddha is said to have breathed on each image, making them true images. Of

the other four, two of the images are in India and two in heaven.

Land of Pagodas 9

According to the Mustache Brothers, “If you

have not seen our dancing, you cannot say

you have been to Mandalay!”

The Moustache Brothers originally

comprised two brothers, Par Par Lay and Lu

Maw and their cousin Lu Zaw. Lay and Zaw

served almost six years of a seven year

sentence in a labour camp for criticizing the

government in a performance at the home of

Aung San Suu Kyi in Rangoon in 1996.

Par Par Lay was arrested for the third time in

September 2007 as part of the crackdown on

the anti-government protests and held until

November first. Sadly, Par Par Lay died in

2013 from kidney disease probably brought on

by conditions in prison. Undaunted, his

partners continue to present their satirical

criticism of the military government. The

other side of their daily performances is

demonstrating traditional Burmese dance. Ni

Ni Lin, wife of Lu

Maw, is an

accomplished dancer,

who, with other

members of the

troupe gave us many

examples of the

various routines that

make up the

traditional dance.

Ni Ni Lin’s face adorned the cover of the

1996 Lonely Planet guide to Myanmar.

Myanmar 10

At the summit of Mandalay hill, some 230 meters above the

surrounding plains, we find the Su Taung Pyi Pagoda where

Buddha is said to have visited and prophesised the

establishment to a great city at the foot of the hill. History

suggests that the pagoda was originally built in 1052 by

King Anawratha, the builder of Bagan. Also called the “wish

granting pagoda”, the Su Taung Pyi and its surrounding

pavilions offer a place to rest in contemplation while

watching night fall on the land below. From this vantage

point, one can see the city of Mandalay, the winding

Ayeyarwady River and Mingun to the west. Wherever you

look, it is difficult to miss views of pagodas,...pagoda and

pagoda and pagoda dot the landscape below.

Land of Pagodas 11

Casting off from the jetty town on the banks of the

Ayeyarwady River near Mandalay, we crossed the

currents to the town of Mingun aboard one of the many

river boats. We took some time to relax in wicker chairs

on the promenade deck and watched the river traffic

come and go, some carrying people, some hauling loads of

bamboo and other goods. Men with long poles standing on

the decks of small boats are

a common sight during dry

seasons. Their task is to

measure the depth of the

river, marking shallows to be

avoided by larger craft.

During low water periods, temporary houses

made from bamboo dot the shoreline. Local

farmers and fishers make their homes here to be

close to their crops and fishing spots. When

waters rise, the buildings can be dismantled and

moved or be carried downstream by the flooding

water.

Myanmar 12

Disembarking at Mingun, travellers can

choose to walk a short distance into town

or ride in one of the local ox carts.

Following the old adage “each to his own”

some of us made the trek on foot while

others chose the local limousine service.

Mingun is home to Pahtodawgyi - the

“unfinished pagoda,” the Mingun Bell,

Hsinphyumae Pagoda, two giant lion

statues, several market stalls, a

monastery, and a retirement home for

seniors.

Construction of the unfinished pagoda was

started by King Bodawpaya in 1790. Work on

the pagoda ceased when an astrologer claimed

that the king would die if the temple was

finished. The great Mingun Bell was

commissioned for the unfinished pagoda. The

90 ton bell, is today the largest ringing bell in

the world. After offering a prayer or making a

wish, it is customary to ring a bell to carry the

request out into the

world. Several people in

our band of travellers

rang out their wishes that day.

The white Hsinbyume or Myatheindan Pagoda

lies just a few hundred meters from the bell. Its

distinctive architectural represents the

mythical Mount Meru. Built in 1816 by

Bodawpaya's grandson and successor Bagyidaw

in memory of his first consort Princess

Hsinbyume, the Lady of the White Elephant.

Land of Pagodas 13

Climbing the staircase barefoot

brought us to a circular balcony

that surrounds the upper

pagoda. From here one can look

out over a landscape of trees,

water and pagodas. From the

southern arc of the circle, the

unfinished pagoda looms in the

distance.

The seniors home and

the colourful market stalls are reminders that Mingun exists

with one foot in the past, one in the present and both feet

walking into the future.

While browsing through the markets,

we found our new favourite drink…

Mandalay Rum, at $2.50 a bottle.

Myanmar 14

Returning to Mandalay we travelled

to Sagaing to visit the U Min Thonze

Pagoda. Climbing barefoot up many

stairs brings us to the main hall of

the pagoda, a narrow crescent shape

façade that covers a cave on the side

of Sagaing Hill

Also known as the U Min Thonze

Bronze Cave, the pagoda holds the 30

doors which lead to 45 Buddha

images within.

Like other pagodas, the approach to the

pavilion at U Min Thonze is the home of a

market where clothing and offerings can be

purchased.

From the vantage point of the hilltop, we

took in the panoramic view of the plains

below with the Ayeyarwady River and hills

on display.

Land of Pagodas 15

While in he Sagaing Hills, we visited the Dha Kya Di Tar Convent, the

home of a group of bhiksuni, the Buddhist nuns. Their pink robes

immediately distinguish them from the many monks in the region.

A day in the life of a Buddhist nun involves meditation, studying the

dharma, the doctrine of universal truth common to all individuals at

all times proclaimed by the Buddha, and working around the convent

preparing meals and cleaning the grounds. Young nuns can be seen

scurrying from lesson to lesson when they are not engaged in

contemplation or daily chores.

The first bhiksuni was Mahapajapati Gotami, the aunt who

raised Gautama Buddha after his mother died

Women and girls can enter the convent at any time in

their lives and leave whenever they choose. Many

young girls will spend a few days or weeks at the

convent when they are not in school. Where monks are

not allowed to prepare their own food, relying on the

generosity of others, nuns can cook their own meals.

Nuns still participate in the early morning alms

gathering that is a part of the way of life of the order.

Myanmar 16

Land of Pagodas 17

In the Sagain Hills

Myanmar 18

Our next stop in the Mandalay

region was U Bein Bridge, the

teakwood bridge that spans

Taungthaman Lake near

Amarapura. This 1.2-kilometre

bridge was built around 1850

and is believed to be the oldest

and longest teakwood bridge in

the world.

The bridge has a curved shape

in the middle to resist the effects

of wind and water. The 1,086

primary teak posts, reclaimed from the former royal

palace in Inwa were hammered into lake bed seven feet

deep. The conical shape of the posts aid in shedding

water during rainy seasons.

We boarded small boats just before sunset and were

rowed out onto the lake to

watch the sun dip behind

the bridge. Sunset on

Taungthaman is a popular

event often involving

sparkling wine or other

refreshments.

Land of Pagodas 19

Myanmar 20

After celebrating sunset on the lake, we moved on to a workshop

where weavers weave upside down. Following detailed patterns,

they create cloth that can only be seen in final form in a mirror

held below the beam and only fully appreciated when it comes off

the loom. The work is detailed and painstaking but the weavers

were not adverse to our inspection.

The weaving room is next door to a shop where visitors can buy

bolts of cloth or prepared longyi that can be worn immediately. The

longyi, the typical garment of the Burmese, is a sarong worn by

both men and women. Women complete the dress with a blouse

buttoned at the side, called a yinbon. The longyi is a circle of fabric

worn from the waist down, tied in front by

men and tucked to the side by women.

A word about the cream-coloured makeup worn

by the young ladies here... Thanaka.is a

yellowish-white cosmetic paste made from

ground bark. It acts as makeup and sunscreen.

Land of Pagodas 21

The next stop on our journey took us to Shwenandaw

Monastery. Also known as the Teakwood or Golden

Palace Monastery, this historic Buddhist monastery near

Mandalay Hill was built in 1880 by King Thibaw Min.

The king dismantled and relocated the building formerly

occupied by his father, King Mindon Min, believing it to

be haunted by his father's spirit. The building was

reconstructed as a monastery over the course of 5 years,

and dedicated in memory of his former king.

The monastery is known for its teak carvings showing

scenes of Buddhist myths, which cover its walls and

roofs. The main building of the monastery is under

continual restoration

repairing the ravages of

time and weather. New

carvings, faithful replicas

of original work, can be

seen next to original

work. Visitors need to be

wary of leaning against the woodwork,

because of the fragility of the ancient wood

and because the maintenance of the

woodwork involves liberal applications of

crude oil as a preservative.

Myanmar 22

The next stop on our exploration was the King Galon Gold

Leaf Workshop in Mandalay. Here, workers pound pellets of

gold into thin sheets or leafs that are only a few atoms thick.

Gold leaf is used in the gilding of buildings, statues, Buddha

images and works of art. Myanmar is blessed with an

abundance of the yellow metal, the proof of which is evident

wherever you look.

The making of gold leaf is hard, noisy, and backbreaking

work. Workers use heavy mallets to pound packets of the

metal interleaved with paper until the gold reaches the

desired thickness. As one hammer strikes home, another is

raised. The work takes on a rhythm and goes on until a cup

with a hole in the bottom sinks into a bowl of water, which

takes about 3 minutes. After a short break, the rhythmic

pounding continues.

This way of gold leaf making produces

what most consider to be a higher

quality leaf than mechanical methods.

When the pounding is done, the leafs

are trimmed and packaged for sale.

Land of Pagodas 23

Leaving the thud of the hammers behind, we made our way

to the world’s largest book.

The “book” is set in upright stone panels, in the grounds of

the Kuthodaw pagoda in Mandalay. Its 1460 pages each

stand 107 centimetres wide by 153 centimetres tall and 13

centimetres thick. The pages are arranged around a central

golden pagoda with each page under its own roof topped

with a precious gem. As a literary

work, the book contains the

complete text of the entire Pali

Canon of Theravada Buddhism.

Inscribed by one man, the book was

proofread by 1,000 monks, a

monumental task

Outside the pagoda we did business

with a young lady selling various

flowers used as offerings to the Buddha.

The transaction made, we walked away

with our offering, and she left with

1,000 Kipps in hand.

Myanmar 24

Early the next morning, we checked out of our hotel and drove down to the jetty town to board a

riverboat headed for Bagan. The passage downriver, a distance of about 180 km would take us

from sunrise to sunset, a peaceful twelve hour cruise. Most mapping

apps optimistically suggest that the distance could be covered in

about 3 hours and 41 minutes by car... real world driving time is 10 -

12 hours, more or less including bio-breaks. The boat ride offers a

unique view of the countryside and has the added advantage of more

leg room and fewer bumps along the way. The possibility of running

aground in low water season adds a certain level of excitement.

River traffic is varied and constant,

passengers and goods head up and

down river to and from Mandalay

and beyond. The

river banks are

dotted with villages

and pagoda after

pagoda, some small, some large. Small boats hold

fishers while others ferry people and cargo from

shore to shore. Larger cargo vessels are accompanied

by small boats with workers tasked with finding

clear deep channels.

Land of Pagodas 25

With our river cruise coming to a close,

the warm, golden light of sunset

announced our arrival at Bagan and the

start of a new adventure.

Myanmar 26

Bagan

Bagan is an ancient city dating to the 9th century

CE. The city was the capital of the first kingdom to

unify the regions that now constitute modern

Myanmar. At the dawn of our first day in Bagan,

our first stop was at Nyaung Oo Market. Stocked

with everything from coils of betel leaf and dried

fish to bananas and pastel coloured eggs, the

market was bustling with shoppers stocking up on

food and other necessities for the day. Like other places in

Myanmar, fruit, vegetables, meat, and spices are purchased

fresh each day from

vendors in the market.

Betel leaf should not be confused with betel nut, the addictive palm seed that

causes euphoria. Side effects of betel nut chewing include discolouration of the

teeth, gum disease, mouth ulcers and, in extreme cases, oral cancer.

Land of Pagodas 27

Historians estimate that some 12,000 pagodas and monasteries were constructed in and around

Bagan in the 9th to 11th centuries. Today there are fewer than 3,000 standing pagodas and a

few thousand in various states of ruin owing to weather, earthquakes and the ravages of time.

Our exploration of Began’s pagodas commenced with a visit to the

Shwezigon Pagoda in nearby Nyaung-U. This prototypical Burmese

stupa consists of a circular gilded central temple surrounded by

smaller pagodas. Construction of the Shwezigon Pagoda began in 1059

during the reign of King Anawrahta and was completed in 1102 CE

after his death. The pagoda is believed to hold a bone and tooth of

Gautama Buddha.

The gold leaf that covers the pagoda can be

seen clearly where the gold has been

scrubbed thin by weather and wind erosion.

As we found at other

large pagodas, pilgrims

and tourists join with local visitors who come to the

pagoda to make offerings and wishes in the

Buddhist tradition.

Myanmar 28

A short ride brought us to the Htilominlo Temple in Bagan. Built

during the reign of King Htilominlo between 1211 and1231, the

three story tall red brick temple is known for the elaborate plaster

moldings on the inner walls. The temple was damaged in the 1975

earthquake and has since undergone repair.

Approaching the temple through the east entrance we passed

stalls with souvenirs and local artwork. Entering the temple we

found ourselves in a chamber containing a golden Buddha image,

the first of four such statues housed in the temple.

Each of the images shows the Buddha with the legs crossed, the

left hand in the lap, and the right hand pointing to the ground

with the palm facing inward. Known as the

Calling The Earth to Witness posture, it is

the definition of the moment of

enlightenment for Buddha Gautama.

Connected by narrow hallways, three other

chambers contain similar Buddha images

each facing one of the other points of the

compass.

Offerings of water, food,

flowers and incense are left

each day at the foot of the

Buddha.

Land of Pagodas 29

Next on our agenda for the day was Ananda Phaya, in Bagan. The Phaya (temple) is named in

honour of Gautama Buddha’s first cousin the Venerable Ananda. As secretary and attendant to

the Buddha, Ananda was instrumental in recording the many sayings that have been passed

down through the ages. The Phaya has been called the Westminster Abbey of Burma but since

the temple predates the abbey, perhaps Westminster should be the Ananda Phaya of Great

Britain.

Construction of Ananda Phaya began in 1105 AD during the

reign of King Kyanzittha of the Pagan Dynasty. One of four

surviving large temples in Bagan, the

temple layout is in a cruciform with

several terraces leading to a small pagoda

at the top covered by an hti, the umbrella

or top ornament found atop almost all

pagodas in Myanmar.

The phaya houses four gilded teak

standing Buddhas called the “Buddhas of

the modern age.” Standing 9.5 meters tall

the images represent the enlightened

beings. Buddha–Kassapa facing south

with hands in the Setting the wheel in motion posture,

Buddha Kakusandha facing north, Buddha Konagamana

facing east with hands in the Reasoning and exposition

posture, and Buddha Gautama facing west with hands in the

Fearlessness posture.

At the foot of Gautama Buddha are two small images

covered in ever increasing layers of gold leaf. While

women are usually prohibited from touching images of

the Buddha, the prohibition does not apply here.

Taking advantage of the opportunity, several women

from our group, took advantage of the freedom to

adorn the images with more gold leaf.

The temple was

damaged in

the earthquake of 1975. Since then

it has been fully restored and

receives frequent painting and

whitewashing of its walls. On the

900th anniversary of its

construction in 1990 the temple

spires were gilded.

Myanmar 30

Within the grounds of Ananda Phraya we found the

Ananda Oakkyaung Monastery. This small red brick

structure was built by three brothers in 1137 CE.

Outwardly less impressive, lacking the shining gold of

the pagoda next door, the monastery could be

overlooked by travellers. Exploring realms inside we

found the walls are covered in 18th century paintings

depicting Buddha’s life and elements of the history of

Bagan.

Besides being Buddha’s friend and

confidant, Ananda is said to have

been instrumental in persuading

Buddha Gautama to overcome his

misgivings about the entry of

women into the ordained order of

followers.

The name Ananda means Eternity, fitting since he is thought to have lived some 120 years.

The first monk who resided in this monastery was Shin Thuddhamma Linkara who lived to

reach the age of 69. By edict of King Kyanzittha, the vulnerable monk was granted

lodgings in the monastery so he could live in peace and meditation.

Land of Pagodas 31

Taking a break from our

explorations, we stopped at a nearby

vegetarian restaurant. Midday

breaks provided a time to stop, rest,

and watch the ebb and flow of life on

the local streets.

Horse carts, common in Bagan, are a

slower and less hectic conveyance

from place to place. The carts share

the road with cars, buses and motor

bikes, often making for an

interesting ride.

A ritual that our group adopted early in our journey

was to take items like shampoo, soap, and unused

tooth brushes and combs from our hotel rooms to give

to local children that we met along the way. These

items and treats like biscuits were warmly received

by the children and much appreciated by their

parents. The hotel items are discarded each day, so

their disappearance goes without comment. Biscuits

and similar healthy snacks are preferred over candy

which promotes tooth decay.

Myanmar 32

After lunch, our next stop was at Bagan House Lacquerware

Workshop, a pleasant walk of a few blocks from our hotel. Here we

were introduced into an art form that arose in Bagan in the 12th

century. Lacquerware production starts with bamboo shipped down

from Myanmar’s Chin State. Softened bamboo cane is split into thin

strips, a process that requires both hands, at least one foot and a large

knife. The bamboo strips are wound or woven into shapes like

bracelets, bowls, vases, cups, plates, and various boxes. The resulting

objects are coated with thitsee, a resin from the

Thit-si tree that grows in Myanmar. Thitsee may

be mixed with ashes or sawdust to form a putty-like

substance called thayo which can be sculpted. The

object is coated layer upon layer

with thitsee and thayo to make a

smooth surface, then polished and

engraved with intricate designs,

commonly using red, green and

yellow colours on a red or black

background.

Some objects are

decorated with

eggshell

others with

gold.

Busy workers will stop to

show visitors how they

perform their art or to

decorate items like lens

hoods or a case for eye

glasses.

Land of Pagodas 33

As our first day in Bagan came to a close, we made a brief stop at the

Sulamani Pagoda in the nearby village of Minnanthu. Built in 1183 by

King Narapatisithu, the temple is similar in design to the

Dhammayangyi Temple, and was the model for the Htilominlo Temple.

Damaged in the 1975 earthquake, Sulamani Temple was restored using

brick and stone. It was rebuilt in 1994.

From here we visited the Dhammayangyi Temple, largest of all the

temples in Bagan. Dhammayangyi was built during the reign of

King Narathu in the 12th century

CE. Narathu, who came to the

throne by assassinating his

father Alaungsithu and his elder

brother, presumably built this temple to atone for his

sins.

Dhammayangyi is the widest temple in Bagan, and is

similar to the of Ananda Temple. Burmese chronicles

state that while the temple was being built, the king was assassinated thus the

temple was not completed. The temple's interior is bricked up for unknown

reasons, so only the four porches and the outer corridors are accessible today.

Moving on a short distance, we climbed the

stairs at a small pagoda to watch the sunset.

Climbing barefoot up narrow, irregular steps is not for the feint

of heart, but is well worth the

effort. From our vantage point,

we looked out over fields of

pagodas catching the last rays of

sunlight.

Freedom to climb Bagan’s pagodas has been severely

limited by authorities owing to disrespectful

behaviour of some visitors.

Myanmar 34

With an early wakeup call the next morning, we

headed out to climb a pagoda to witness the

dawn of a new day over Bagan. In the transition

of twilight, we watched as the sun lit the land

and pagodas.

As we watched and waited, several hot air

balloons came into view. Eventually soaring

overhead, they carried their passengers over

the landscape. Ballooning is a popular

activity at sunrise, offering a unique view of

ancient Bagan.

Land of Pagodas 35

Hopping on electric bikes and hoping for a miracle, we

ventured out into the countryside. Thankfully, traffic

was light and we all managed to navigate successfully.

Along the way one is reminded of the pagoda building

years of Bagan’s past.

Eventually, after stops to wait for

battery changes and those looking at

pagodas, we arrived in the village of

Minnan Thu. Here, villagers gave us

some insight into their lives. This

agricultural village specializes in

producing peanut oil, dried plums and flax fiber which is

woven by local women following traditions passed down

through generations.

Wherever we went in Bagan, this young man and his

parents appeared to show us souvenirs they were willing

to sell. The lad showed us some of his drawings that he

was willing to part with for a modest fee. After handing

him 2,000 kyat ($2.00) for a set of 4, he told me that he is

a “very good business man.”

Myanmar 36

Saying goodbye to the people in Minnan Thu, we made our way back to

Bagan to return our electric bikes before taking a short bus ride to

Kyan Sithar Umin Monastery to chat with one of the senior monks.

Avoiding the age old question about the meaning of life and how the

caramel gets in the chocolate bar, our group inquired into more

personal interests like how one achieves a state of meditation and

whether it is necessary to assume any particular posture in

meditation. In answer, we learned that meditation requires diligence

and the ability to focus and it takes time and practice. As for assuming

a particular posture, thankfully,

we needn’t worry about that.

Our group drew the attention of

several younger monks who took

pictures of us with their

smartphones. These items are

not forbidden but must not

interfere with learning and

contemplation.

Receiving a blessing from the monk, we boarded our bus and headed to a

Toddy Palm plantation. The fruit of the Toddy palm produces juice which is

used to make two very different products. Juice gathered in the morning is

sweet and is harvested to make palm sugar in a process that Canadians

would recognize from maple syrup making.

The juice is boiled down in pans until it

thickens and turns into a brown sugar.

Juice collected in the afternoon ferments

and becomes bitter. This juice is distilled

in clay pots

to make a

potent

beverage.

Peanut oil, used in

Burmese cooking is also

made here. Peanuts are ground and pressed in a cone shaped vessel using ox-

power. When we arrived, the ox was out grazing but quietly walked over to

show us how the process works. Walking in a circle, the ox turns a pole that

rubs the peanuts against the side of the vessel, squeezing out the oil and

leaving a high protein paste that can be used as ox food. The oil is collected

in a pan and sold to local cooks.

Land of Pagodas 37

Shan State

Catching an early morning flight from Bagan to Heho, we started

the next phase of our journey through Myanmar. Arriving in Heho

in Shan State, we loaded into our new bus and headed to Nyaung

Shwe at the north end of Inle Lake. Making our way from our drop

off point, we visited the Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery. Known for its

unique oval windows, this monastery is built from teak and is

adorned with many carvings. Like other monasteries, Shwe Yan

Pyay is populated by monks but here the monks are mostly young

novices who have come to learn the teachings of the dharma.

A fierce

looking

creature guarding the door

reminds visitors to take off their shoes before entering. Monks

robes, hanging in the sun to dry are a

brilliant red and deep plum purple ,

which is in contrast to the saffron

robes usually associated with the

order.

Before boarding our boats to head out onto the lake, we were

treated to a rickshaw ride through town, much to the amusement of

local people who graciously refrained from actually laughing.

Myanmar 38

Into the boats and out onto Inle Lake we

skimmed across the surface into a

completely different experience from

what came before. The lake boats are long

and narrow, made for negotiating narrow

channels and tight turns. They are also

tippy requiring passengers to sit still and

trust the boatman. After an hour or so,

just when we got our sea legs, we arrived

at Innpawkhon the first of the several

villages we would visit on the lake.

Here we stopped for a midday meal. Our

chosen restaurant specialises in Inle Lake

tilapia, fresh caught that day. If not in the

mood for fish, they also serve up some very

tasty fried noodles. Sitting on a balcony, we

could take in the activity down on the water.

Boats and canoes replace cars and bikes in the

Inle Lake villages

and are seen going

up and down the

“streets” on some

matter of business.

From our vantage

point we were able

to see the houses

built up on stilts

The length of the

stilts demonstrates the difference between low and high

water seasons on the lake.

We could also watch one of the

Inle Lake fishers go about his

work, right in the middle of the

main street. These fishers row

with one leg while

manipulating their nets with

both hands.

Land of Pagodas 39

On our way, we passed two young girls engaging in the familiar

youthful activity of just hanging out.

A short detour took us through one

of Inle’s floating gardens where

tomatoes are grown for local

markets.

Late in the day we arrived at our home on Inle Lake

where we took advantage of the resort’s deck bar to view

the setting sun while enjoying some adult beverages..

Next door to our restaurant we found a little shop that makes

cheroots, small cylindrical cigars. Hands moving almost to

fast to follow, these ladies made a cheroot every 45 seconds.

As they dropped the finished cheroots into boxes, they

encouraged us to try their products… many of us complied. In

contrast to the cigars of the Caribbean, the cheroots were mild

and quite pleasant, and they come in different flavours.

Just a short walk across the balcony we entered the Khit Sunn Yin

workshop where weavers were hard at work making traditional cloth.

Spinners convert raw fibers like silk and lotus into fine threads in

vibrant hues.

Weavers transform the threads into

fine cloth used for making longyi

and other

clothing. Lotus

fiber is reserved

for making cloth

for monks robes.

With great

skill the fiber

must be

extracted

from lotus

stems by

hand.

Myanmar 40

Early the next morning, we took to our boats and headed

across the lake to a canal heading upstream to new personal

discoveries.

Along the way, children heading for morning classes arrived

by “school-boat,” artisans

carried their works

downstream to market or

to ship to other places,

children who attend

afternoon classes helped

with the morning dishes.

Travelling up the reed lined

waterway we passed under

many bridges used by local

people to cross the canal at

strategic points.

Water levels in the canals are

controlled by weirs with just

enough space left for a boat

to pass up a little waterfall.

Enjoying the morning

sunshine and the wind in

our faces, we eventually

found ourselves 10 Km

upstream in the village of

Inn Thein

Land of Pagodas 41

At Inn Thein, we visited the Nyaung Ohak and Shwe Inn Thein pagodas

and entered a scene that Lewis Carrol or Salvador Dali might have

created in flights of fancy. Pagoda and pagoda and pagoda cover the

hillside in a chaos of white, gold, and ochre.

Myanmar 42

Overshadowed by the fields of pagodas, the village has a life of its

own. Here people walk or make their way on motorbikes and

buffalo are herded down the street. People gravitate to the river for

transportation, washing, and for the young, a bit of play.

Scrambling into our boats

once more, we headed

downstream passing people

at work cleaning and

repairing the weirs.

Land of Pagodas 43

On the way back to the lake, we stopped at the village of Ywama

where we would spend some time in the shops and meeting local

people. Of particular interest in Ywama is the Hnin Thitsar

Umbrella Workshop where paper umbrellas come to life. Forget the

large paper factories at home, this is paper making in its most

traditional form. We watched as two ladies made paper which would

either be used in making the parasols or sold as art paper. Mulberry

bark is soaked in water and pounded into a fibrous paste using a

mallet and wooden anvil. The paste is mixed in a vessel with more

water to make a slurry that is floated onto a screen submerged in a

large vat. As the screen is lifted, the

water drains away leaving a sheet of

raw paper. Flowers can be added to

the wet paper or the paper can be

dyed in rich colours. The screens are

then set in the sun to dry before the

paper is peeled away.

Upstairs in the factory, the new paper

is fashioned into parasols by artisans who make

all of the base components by hand from bamboo

and wood.

Myanmar 44

In Ywama we met some of the some of the long neck Padaung

women. The Padaung people are the oldest of Myanmar’s 135 ethnic

groups. These peaceful people not only live in harmony with nature

but also keep many unique customs alive, including wearing many

of the brass necklaces that give them the appearance of having

longer necks.

Young girls can choose to wear the rings or not according to their

own wishes, but once started, the rings cannot be removed for

traditional and safety reasons. The Padaung women consider the

practice to be both honourable and beautifying. Brass rings are also

worn a jewelry on the arms and legs adding to the fashion

statement.

One of the older ladies showed

how the larger rings can be

uncoupled to make sleeping

more comfortable.

During the 1980s, many of the

Padaung fled to neighbouring

Thailand to escape military

oppression. Changing times have

brought them back to their

homelands where they now live and work as

artisans and ambassadors when tourists come to

town.

In a small workshop next door, we watched as silversmiths refined the

precious metal and crafted beautiful works of art ranging from earrings

and bracelets to large ornamental sculptures. Their signature work,

making fish from sheets of silver in sizes a few millimeters to several

centimeters takes great skill and talent.

Land of Pagodas 45

A short boat ride brought us to the Phaung

Daw Oo pagoda where we walked barefoot

through the market stalls and on into the

main hall of reverence.

The main hall is a cavernous golden space with highly

polished wood plank floors. Overhead, a gilded ceiling is held aloft by pillars of gold-covered

teak. In the center of the great hall is a smaller pagoda that enshrines five Buddha images that

are so encrusted with gold leaf that their original shapes

are completely hidden. Although the monastery is open

to all for veneration, only men are permitted to place

gold leaf on the images.

During the Burmese month of

Thadingyut (from September to

October), four of the Buddha images

are placed on a replica of the royal

barge and taken throughout Inle Lake. One image always remains at the temple. The

elaborately decorated barge is towed by several boats powered by leg-rowers rowing in unison.

Accompanied by many other boats, the images make their way clockwise from village to village.

The four images reside at the main monastery in each village for the night, and move on in the

morning.

All five images were used to make the journey but during a festival in the

1960s, on a particularly windy day, high waves capsized the barge and the

images tumbled into the lake. It was said that they could not recover one image

but that when they went back to the monastery, the missing image was

miraculously sitting in its place. This was taken as a sign that this particular

image did not want to travel.

Looking out from the terrace surrounding the pagoda, one can take in the tiled

courtyards with their allotment of pigeons below.

Myanmar 46

From the big pagoda, we crossed over a bridge and

followed a path to the home of a local chef where we

would experience the art of Shan cooking. For those

expecting to see gleaming stainless steel and

overhead mirrors… forget about it. This experience is

an immersion into local tradition as real as it gets.

Our guide to local culinary arts was a soft spoken

lady who could cook up a

gourmet meal in short

order.

Putting us to work, she had us

grinding ginger and garlic, and

cutting beans and tomatoes in

preparation for cooking.

Veggies cut, chicken

chopped and local fish

filleted, she invited us into her kitchen to help tend

to pots heated over small clay chimneys. In no time,

our lunch was ready. Tempura veggies, fried chicken

and noodles, fried fish and a green bean salad with

peanut dressing were arranged in front of us as we

sat on the floor to quite literally take it all in.

With memories of a fine meal, we returned to the boats for a

trip back to our hotel for an evening of reflection and some

Mandalay Rum on the deck as the sun set. A fitting end to the

day.

Land of Pagodas 47

After a breakfast with Shan noodles, we took to the boats for our last

ride on Inle Lake to make our way to Kalaw. Along the way we

passed by several of the leg-rowing Inle Lake fishers going about

their work. One of the iconic symbols of the lake, the fishers are so

engrossed in their tasks

that they rarely even

seem to notice the

passing boatloads of

tourists coming and

going.

Traversing the lake, we noticed a small

pagoda on stilts. From this little pagoda

the Buddha image watches over the fishers

and other lake travellers to bid safe

journeys for all.

Lake boats carry not just tourists, but also

cargo and local people to their work and

school… gulls follow the boats in hope of a

handout.

Most images of the fishers show them smiling as they balance on their

canoes with the traditional conical basket in hand and one leg

outstretched to hold the oar. They are however, actors playing the part,

not the real fishers who are much too busy fishing to pose.

Myanmar 48

Travelling by bus from Inle Lake, we arrived

near a rural village a few kilometers northeast

of Kalaw. A short walk of about a kilometer

took us past fields and along the main street

of this little community. When we arrived at

the village school, we were met by a few dozen

girls and boys out playing in the school yard

and generally doing what kids do anywhere

when released from their classrooms. Armed

with bags of

toothbrushes, combs,

shampoo, and other “treats,” we were ready for the kids to gather around

to see what this group of visitors had to offer. In

typical fashion, they took what was given with

grins and quietly spoken kyaezube (thank you.)

We trekked on from the

school along the valley

past rice paddies and

bamboo thickets. Our local

guide took time to show us

edible and medicinal

plants along the way.

In the dry season, some

rice fields are used to grow

other crops like cabbage

while others serve as

grazing pastures for ox and buffalo. As

we walked, we met villagers going about

their daily chores.

A few more kilometers up the valley we

arrived at a collection of white pagodas

that marked the turnaround point of our

trek. After walking back to our bus, we

rode into Kalaw for lunch and some local shopping at the

market. Prior to taking in supper

at a local restaurant we gathered

for some rum sours, mixed up by

our CEO.

Land of Pagodas 49

Waking to low chanting from a nearby monastery, we started

the last day of our journey. After a breakfast we boarded our

bus to make the trip to Heho Airport to catch our flight back to

Yangon. Arriving in the capital in the afternoon, we took

advantage of the hotel pool to relax in preparation for a visit to

Shwedagon Pagoda.

Set atop Singuttara Hill and standing 112 metres, more or

less, Shwedagon dominates the Yangon skyline. Shwedagon

Pagoda is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar, as it

is believed to contain relics of the four previous Buddhas of the

present age. These relics include the staff of Kakusandha, the

water filter of Koṇāgamana, a piece of the robe of Kassapa,

and eight strands of hair from the head of Gautama.

The pagoda rises from a tiled plaza amid smaller stupas and

temples. The overwhelming size of the central pagoda is

difficult to appreciate until one realizes that the hti (umbrella)

at the apex of the dome is itself some 6 meters tall. The hti is adorned with 5448 diamonds, and

2317 rubes, sapphires and other gems. The hti contains 1065 golden bells and a 76 carat

diamond.

Covered in gold plates, the pagoda gleams in the warm evening

sunlight. People all over the country, as well as past monarchs have

donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice was started in

the 15th century by Queen Shin Sawbu, who gave her weight in gold.

Strolling around the terrace plaza, with the many pilgrims and

visitors that evening, we

stopped to view the many

stupas and temples that

surround the main pagoda.

At strategic points, visitors

can stop to pay reverence to

the spirit of

their birth

day. Most

days have one spirit animal, those born

on a Wednesday must choose between

morning and evening. Paying homage to

one’s day spirit involves bathing the

spirit and its associated Buddha image

with water while making wishes.

Myanmar 50

Shwedagon Pagoda was a fitting place to complete our journey

through the heart of Myanmar. The pagoda stands as testament

to the deep faith of the people. Its gold plate demonstrates the

wealth of a this ancient country as it renews itself as it has done

through the ages. In the midst of the quiet joy that surrounded

us, we could ponder all that we had seen as we explored along

the way.

We found pagoda after pagoda as promised by our CEO, but

along the way we discovered the joy that the people of Myanmar

share with all who journey here. Myanmar is a vibrant land

with a rich heritage. We wish it well

in the days and years ahead as they

walk into the future

with one foot in the

past and one in the

present.

At the North West corner of the terrace are

two Bodhi Trees. The larger one was planted

in 1903, the smaller one was planted by U

Nu, prime minister of Burma from 1948 to

1962. It was grown from the cutting from the

Holy Bodhi Tree in India, which is believed

to be the tree under which Buddha

Gautama attained nirvana

Land of Pagodas 51

Epilogue

Our trip through Myanmar was orchestrated by National Geographic with G Adventures. Having

travelled with G Adventures prior to this, we were pleasantly surprised by the level of service we

received along the way. Bags were handled, hotels were above the norm and short flights replaced long

bus rides giving more time to explore destinations at the relative expense of missing the countryside.

On this journey, as with other G Adventures, our guide and CEO was not only a wealth of information,

but a very capable organizer who made difficult things easy.

Food in Myanmar is a fusion of flavours from local states and Indian curries. Rice and noodles are

prominent, but the Shan noodle dishes are a highlight. Some western dishes like pasta, pizza and

burgers can be found should the traveller need to touch base with home. While gold is seen

everywhere, we did notice the absence of the golden arches. For those who enjoy a good beverage,

Myanmar Beer and Mandalay Rum don’t disappoint the palate. Myanmar also has a bourgeoning wine

industry for those with more delicate tastes.

A word about spelling… the language of Myanmar is written in a type of tonal script which leads to

differing opinions about the phonetic spelling of the names of places and people when words are

translated to English. Throughout this volume I have tried to use the most common variant, sometimes

you just have to choose one and move on. Myanmar and Burma are both commonly used by local

people. Two Burmese words travellers learn early on are mingalabar, meaning hello or welcome, and

kyaezube, which is thankyou. Although English is a second language in Myanmar, it does take some

ear training to understand, which is sort of like visiting Newfoundland.

While I have touched on respecting local customs, it is worth reiterating that we are visitors in their

land. Custom requires covering shoulders and knees and doffing shoes and socks when visiting

pagodas. Respecting the sanctity of the holy places is just good manners. In several cases, we saw

foreign visitors with bare shoulders and uncovered knees who were asked to cover up. As of March 1st,

2016, shortly after we left Myanmar, government officials limited the climbing of pagodas in and

around Bagan. This move was taken to protect the monuments from damage created by visitors who

take liberties in climbing where forbidden and using the pagodas as places to party. The actions of a

few affect all.

The country is not free of oppression and cultural bias and in that regard it is no different than other

nations including those that we all home. The simple truth is that wherever you go, if you look for

trouble it will find you. Although most places in Myanmar are safe, it is prudent to take basic

precautions.

Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism, where Thailand has some 25 million visitors every year,

this country has one tenth that number. How they will handle increasing tourism and the

environmental and social changes that come as its side effect remains to be seen. We can only hope

that future visitors come with a healthy dose of respect and humility befitting guests in a foreign land.

Visiting Myanmar puts another tick on the bucket list but a return visit is in order. Twelve days is

insufficient time to truly experience all of Myanmar. That said, we were duly impressed by what we

did see as we travelled though this beautiful country. Boating down the Ayeyarwady from Mandalay to

Bagan was a peaceful highlight. Walking through the hills near Kalaw gave time for communing with

rural life. Riding electric scooters in Bagan offered some adrenalin raising excitement. Strolling

barefoot through pagodas gave us insight into the foundation of Burmese culture. Viewing sunset and

sunrise from the terraces of pagodas provided time for reflection.

And that leaves only one last thing to say… Kyaezube Myanmar!

Myanmar 52 J Nicklin, 2016