murphy's law presentation ver2

Murphy’s LawWhiting 32

Safety EquipmentEvacuation plan

Safety EquipmentEPIRBLife JacketsFlaresFire ExtinguisherLife RingBilge pumpSpare Rope & SheetsAnchor

ESCAPE

HATCHES

Forward

Main

Aft

Anchor

Battery

VHF

Radio

Tools and Spare

Parts

Storage

Hanging

space

Toilet

(Head)

2Prepared By ROLAND GEE

PORT Side

Head Sail Halyard

Vang

Reefing 1

Cunningham

STARBOARD Side

Main Halyard

Head Sail Halyard

Main Out Haul

Vang

Reefing 2

Cunningham

Topping lift

INSTRUMENTS

Speed (water) and Depth

Compass

GPS

Murphys Law Sailing ProceduresPersonal safety equipment:

PFD1 inflatable or buoyancy vest. Must wear sailing glovesPersonal Clothing to suit conditions expected

General procedures:Always Safety First for everybody. Procedures for winch and sail handling must be safe. Labelling is a very useful technique. Learn part names we use.Safe loading of winches on the water.Hold sheets and halyards by placing the hand with the little finger closest to the winch. Load the required (2)turns (minimum) around the winch from the outer side of the hand. The trimmer applies back pressure to the sheet to cause friction of the sheet around the winch which enables it to deliver its job.Loading turns of the sheet on to a winch

Hand grip on sheet

Load/ unload winch handle and stowage. Do not leave handle in the winch.


Roles of Headsail trimmer.Balance at the winch, brace outside knee on side, inside knee on seat, One hand on the winch handle other for tailing and locking off, chest over the winch for maximum effort.Balance posture

Trimmer’s to move to the high side after setting Headsail.

Operate the mainsheet and especially the cleat system.The language of trimming:

Pull on or in -Tighten upPull on or in -Tighten upEase -Let out a bit at a time- get confirmationDump! – Especially for the main on a windy day

Let it all off and be ready to bring it onAlso need to give an estimate of how much:

“Pull the jib on 10cm”“As we turn away from the wind, ease the mainsheet at least 1 metre”

The mainsail trimmer and the traveller

Traveller controls the boom's angle to the wind and it steers the boat controlling helm and heeling in puffs and lulls

Mainsheet Set the twist

MainsailLight the mainsheet is well eased to promote acceleration(Under 10 knots) the traveller car will need to be up to weather to put the boom on

the centerlineHeadsailMainsailMedium the mainsheet is eased to promote acceleration(10-16 knots) the breeze builds and mainsheet tension increases, the traveller will

gradually be droppedDump the traveller down quickly at the onset of a puffthen be ready to pull it right back up as the initial power of the puff is dissipated and turning it into forward speed instead of heel


Vessel deck Layout crew positions Sailing Upwind

Helm

Mainsheet Hand

Runner Trimmer

Headsail Trimmer-Port – Starboard

Foredeck

Vessel deck Layout crew positions Sailing Downwind

Helm

Runner Trimmer

Mainsheet Hand

Headsail Trimmer-Port – Starboard

Foredeck

Vessel deck Layout crew positions Changing directions


Hoisting the SailsPre set the Rig and sails forLight Mainsail is well eased to promote maximum Power(Under 10 knots) Runners are set to uppers-Firm lowers-easy

Headsail No: 1 set to Max ShapeMedium Mainsail is flattened to promote maximum Power with Better Wind(10-16 knots) Runners are set to uppers Rigid lowers firm

Headsail No: 1½ set to Max ShapeHeavy Mainsail is flat and Down traveller(16- 22 knots) Runners are set to uppers-Hard lowers-rigid

Headsail No: 3 set to Max Shapefix the traveller six to twelve inches above the leeward gunwale and play the sheetaggressively to control heel

Murphy’s LawWhiting 32

Fractional rig with in line spreaders using runnersFractional rig with in line spreaders using runners

Back Stay – Set the mast as a standard bendThe pre-bend should be adjusted in the same way as for the masthead rig. The runners should be hands tight during the pre-bend adjustments.

It is difficult to give exact values for the pre-bend because it istotally dependent on the mainsail’s shape

Use the main halyard to estimate the pre-bendHand tight backstay Set pre-bend as described. Adjust with the lower shrouds.


Man overboard Procedure Everyone has a different system this is how I like to do it (always open to discussion on any aspect of procedures).

If someone is over board call

“Man overboard”

If hard on Wind don’t let out sails keep them locked on hardIf off the Wind let of down extra windward sails and bring on sails( Head and Main) and keep them locked on hardHelm then can sail up wind (sails on) or downwind (Sails on) When asked Dump sails and prepare to Retrieve MOB and bring up transomor over leeward side if possible

Reefing (Reducing Sail) Procedure

Always ease the sail (let it free so you can perform the sail change)When it is required to change gears (reduce Sail )

Then Swap headsails

Ensure the jib is secured to the deck when lowered until it is to be hoisted.

If you need to reef the Main thenLet off the Main Halyard slowly so that the new Reef clew can beplaced on the Horns at the Mast end of the Boom.When this is attached then the reefing line can be Haled inWhen completed hall in sail and get back on track


Sailing Upwind (or Close Hauled)

Points of sailing

Tracking

WIND

No Go Zone

Heading


No Go Zone

Beam Reach

TrackingTracking

WIND

No Go Zone

Heading


WIND

No Go Zone

Danger Zone

Down Wind no

Spinnaker

Heading


Tracking

Changing Direction

Understand the helm’s position - crossing

the boat during tacks and gybes facing forward.

EYES FRONT!

Ensure the jib is secured to the deck until it is to be hoisted when lowered.

Manoeuvres such as tacking and gybing, the helm calls

“Ready ….” To everyone, every time, helm checks for response from all, on what they have to do. Crew must not do anything until the helm calls “Ready ….”

Tacking:

Jib trimmer(s):pre-load winch with new sheet, 2 turns

let go sheet on low side when sail collapses

Pull on sheet on opposite side when sail collapses

Use winch, adding turns of the sheet if requiredUse winch, adding turns of the sheet if required

Cleat, or trimmer to hold

Main trimmer: Ease the sheet 10-20cm

Cross to the other side as the boat sits upright

Then pull in as boat accelerates on the new tack

Helm: Pick out aiming point for the boat when it comes out of the tack. The helm does this, with outside reference or Compass.

Call crew “ready to tack?”

Wait 3 seconds, allow crew to respond “ready”

Call “Leo” and push tiller to 45 degrees

Cross the boat, passing tiller behind, EYES FRONT! When main fills on the new tack, helm in the middle.

12Prpared By ROLAND GEE

Gybing:

Bear away running dead down wind, with the wind indicator pointing directly over the stern.Point out that the collapse of the jib is a good indication of this point of sailing. Main trimmer - the procedure to be followed is the safe, strong wind method grabbing the sheet and throwing it across.

Jib trimmer(s): When the jib collapses, bring the active sheet in a metre or two, and hold preparatory for the gybe. Thus preventing the jib from wrapping around the forestay.After the gybe, bring the new sheet on and release the old.Trim the sheet to the new course.Main trimmer: At the call of “”, centre and secure the traveller, to stop it moving during the gybe. In fresh winds, you may take it right over to the opposite side and secure it there. When the boat is “dead square”, start pulling in the sheet. Ensure that the sheet remains free of the cleat, and that the sheet is free to run and not tangled. Cross to the other side As the boat turns for the gybe, the boom will drop, lift and swing across in about 0.8 of a second. The


drop, lift and swing across in about 0.8 of a second. The main sheet must be let free to run. Once stable, bring the main sheet in, as the boat turns to its new course. Discourage gybing the mainsail by grabbing a handful of sheet and flinging it across the boat.

Helm: Call “Prepare to gybe”Turn the boat downwind, “dead square” to the wind Wind indicator directly over the stern.Hold this direction while the mainsail is brought towards the centreCross to the other side while the mainsail is coming inCall “gybe”When the boom comes across, pull the tiller the other way to counter the turning force of the mainsail. Usually hold this for about 2 seconds, turn further and hold longer in stronger winds.When the boat is stable, push the tiller to the middleEstablish the new course and call the trimmers “that’s the course”.The gybe should be a seamless, continuous manoeuvre.

WIND

Sail Setting

Sails Right out, Air Turbulence &

no Power

As sail Pulled in The flow

improves & Power starts

Correct Angle Has Steady Flow


Prepared By ROLAND GEE 15

Look at the point where each mainsail begins to twist (yellow arrow). The mainsail to the left has twist too high and this stalls the sail.The mainsail to the right has the proper twist, which begins at about the 50% point up the leech. This gives great performance.Also note the main and headsail slot differences.The right-side boat has better overall sail trim.

Water flow and effects of Rudder and Keel

KEELRUDDER

Straight

Ahead

Turn to

Starboard

Bird’s Eye View

Starboard

Turn to

Port

Rudder

Stalled


The concept behind running back stays is that they allow you to

control the upper portion of your mast, and therefore adjust the

shape of that same area of the sail plan.

Using them properly depends upon a few things. Murphys is a

fractional rig and therefore the designer added the running

backs to help support the uppermost portion of the sail plan. In

lighter winds, you may not need to use them under 10 knots of lighter winds, you may not need to use them under 10 knots of

wind.

When the breeze comes on, so do the running backs. Once

you've got the sails trimmed in and you're heading upwind,

tension the running backstay on the weather side (with the

leeward one loose) and then stand at the base of the mast and

site up the spar to see what additional adjustment does to the

mast and consequently the shape of the sails.

The running backs are usually attached somewhere below the

masthead, so the force they exert on the spar is largely different

than the force exerted by the permanent backstay, and thus the

end result on the shape of the sail plan is slightly different as

well. Also, running backstays aren't set in exactly the same plane

(getting geometrical here) as the permanent, so they tend to

exert a side force on the spar and thus the sail plan. That's

another reason why it's critical to site up the mast


The main purpose if runners on a race boat is to adjust the

tension in the forestay and therefore adjust the depth of the

headsail and hence the power in the sail. By easing the runner,

the forestay sags backwards and to leeward thereby increasing

the depth of the headsail. And depth = power.

The times you need the runners on hard is to tension the

forestay and flatten the headsail is in very heavy weather when

you're trying to depower the headsail (and coincidentally you're

giving more support to the mast when needed) and in light winds

and flat water when you're trying to sail as close to the wind as

possible. In this case you need a flat sail to reduce your angle of

attack.attack.

At all other times the runner should be adjusted to provide the

required power in the headsail.


Forestay

Runners

Back stay


Water level



The running backstays aren't set in exactly the same plane

(getting geometrical here) as the permanent, so they tend to

exert a side force on the spar and thus the sail plan.

Water level

BOW on VUEI

Water level


Water level

Distance for water to travel on Windward and Leeward Side’s

Backstay Tension on

Mast Bend

921

Keel Stepped Mast

Bottom Runner Tension on

Stops Mast bend forward

Top Runner Tension on

Increases Forestay Tension


Sailing to WindwardNotice 1.water flow distance on Windward side

2.water flow distance on Leeward side3. Crew position4.Runners and Backstays “on” - Windward

side5.Runners and Backstays “off” - Leeward

side6.Canting Keel in Windward Position7.Canard on Windward Side up8.Canard on Leeward Side Down


SKIPPERS TIPS ON USING BOOM VANG

BOOM VANG


The boom vang ranks second, behind the mainsheet in your ability to trim the mainsail for max. Sail power? This piece of sailing gear can perform for you: 1. Trim your sails to perfection on reaches.2. Serve as a preventer on smaller sailboats.3. Keep the leech shaped for power in heavy air.4. Trim Your Sails to Perfection on Reaches

Keep the Leech Shaped for Power in Heavy Air

When the wind begins to build, move to heavy weather trim. This involves more than just reefing. You need to use the vang, along with the mainsheet and traveller to maintain good mainsail leech shape to provide power and performance.

1. Tension the vang to remove slack.2. Move the mainsheet car along the traveller track.3. Set the car in place (traveller line)4. Stand aft of the mainsail. Sight up the leech. 5. Slack the mainsheet a bit until you see the leech

twist halfway up the sail.This technique will help spill wind higher up to keep


This technique will help spill wind higher up to keep the boat more level and balanced more power to punch through a chop.

Pump up your mainsails power on reaching points of sail with a boom vang. You will learn how to sail a boat better than ever before with peak performance, speed, and drive.

When beating or close reaching, the sailboat boom lies close to the centerline

The mainsheet performs the job of pulling down on the mainsail to keep the leech trimmed.

On reaching points of sail?

When the boom hangs out over the water on beam reaches or runs, the mainsheet no longer has the power to pull downward on the boom. The boom can rise, the leech to curl into a half moon, and the sail draft moves aft. You have weather helm and a white-knuckle helm .The vang will pull down on the boom, tighten the leech, and give you just the right sail shape for Max Power.

Keep the Leech Shaped for Power in Heavy Air

When the wind begins to build, move to heavy weather trim. This involves more than just reefing.


weather trim. This involves more than just reefing. You need to use the vang, along with the mainsheet and traveller to maintain good mainsail leech shape to provide power and performance.

Tension the vang to remove slack.

1. Move the mainsheet car along the traveller track.2. Set the car in place (traveller line)3. Stand aft of the mainsail. Sight up the leech. 4. Slack the mainsheet a bit until you see the leech

twist halfway up the sail.This technique will help spill wind higher up to keep the boat more level and balanced more power to punch through a chop.

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murphy's law presentation ver2

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