The Mountaineer Volume Four

Nineteen-Eleven

Pd/1,h,tl 61

The Mountaineers Seanle. Washtn11on

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Copyright

1911 The Mountaineers

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COl\'TE�TS

Pa[!, GrC'eting .................................................... ..1-l 011omblc Jam cs Bryer .............. . l\otes on l\Jt. :\dams ;md St. Helens.Professor Henry L1111dcs ............... . 5

Mt. Adams .............. . ......................... Professor Edmond S. Mcany........ 13 :\It. Adams Onting of 191 I. .................. Jliss Wi11011a Railcy ....................... 15 ]\fountain Lupine .................................... Professor l:dmond S. M ,any..... 25 Ascent of :\It. Hood hy Mountaineers .. Clwrlcs S. Gl,·aso11 l\kany ........................................................ ,1. H. Albcrtso11 ......... .... ............ .

26 30

Climhs in the Snuthern Selkirks .......... /::dward IV. Harnden...................... 31 Benediction of the l\Iountains ............. .R,-.•. Frcdcrick T. 1Vcbb................ 40 The Future of the Rainier !\ational Park ................................................... .

Asa/,'c/ Curtis .............. ..................... 42

All !\ight on an Active Volcano .......... C/rnr/cs Albertson ....................... .... 44 With the Alpine Cluh of Canada ........ P. M. McGregor ................................ 51 The Olympk National l\fonument.. .... Edmond S. Meany. .................... 54 :\'otes of Other Clnhs .......................................................................................... 60 Notes ....................................................................................................................... . Resclutions ............................................................................................................. . Correspondence ........................ : ............................................................................ . Officers and Directors

Reports-

64 67

69 72

Secretary .......................................................................................................... 72 Treasurer ................................................................. ........................................ . Outing Committee ......................................................................................... . Local \Valks Committee ............................................................................. . Schedule of Local Walks .......................................................................... .

73

74

75

76

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lLLlJSTRATio;-.:s

l\lt. Adams .............. .................. ..................................................... .... . Plair

'vVhite Bark Pine ( Pinus Contorta) ............................................ Plate

Snow 11ridge at Killing Creek ........................................ ............. .Plair

Pack Train Crossing Lava Glader on Trip :,.;'orth... .Plat,·

In the Goat Reeks ..................... ....................... .. .......... Plat,·

Mt. Hood ............................................ .................. ..... . . ... . . . . ... .Plair

Summit of Mt. Hood ...................................... .. ............... .Plair

Elliot Glacier ( Mt. Hood) ....................................... .. ........... .Plair

Ice Columns on Tohy Glacier ....................................................... .Plair

Starbird Glacier ..................................................................... ............ Plair

:'.\It. Rainier from Indian Henry's Hunting Ground ... .. . ... . ....... Plair

l\lt. Rainier Road .............................................................. . ................. Plair

Mt. Rainier from Spray Park ............................................. . ........ .Plair

Asama Yama from Karui?.awa ............................................. ...... . .. Plair

Mt. Biddle with Glacier and Lake McArthur ............... .............. Plate

Mt. Huher, Wiwaxy Peaks...................................... . . ............ . Plair

View from side of Mt. Daly showing Sherbrooke Meadows ...................................................................... . .. Plair

Everett Mountaineers on l\lt. Pikhuck ..................... . ........ Plair

Mountaineers on :'.\It. Adams .................................................. ..... .Plair

Ridge ahove Shoe Lake ................................................ .. ...... .Plair

Sheep in a Mountain l\fradow .............................................. ........ .Plair

.l\lt. Hood .................................................................................... .. ...... Plate

Mountaineers in Goat Rocks ...... ............................................... . . ... Plair

Snow Cornice above Klickitat Glacier, .l\lt. Adams ........ . . ...... Plate

Indian Tepee Camp ............................................................ .............. Plate

Mountaineers on a Steep Slope of Mt. Adams.... .Plate

On the Road in Rainier Xational Park. ...................................... .P/alr

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MT. ADAMS­b:, A. H. Denman and A. H. Bamee

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The Mountaineer

Volume Four Seattle, Washington Nineteen-Eleven

NOTES ON ADA:\fS AND ST. HELENS

Mt. Adams

For a 1111111lwr of y<'ars I have he<'n an ard<'nt admirer of :'llt. Adams. hnt tthrnys Ht long r1111g-P. :'.\ot 1111til ll<'arly the elose of the s11m11wr that is just past <lid I lun·p th<' oppor­tunity of a 111or<' intimate a1·qn•1inttt11<·<'. Iu this instane<' dis­tanee ma�· httvP le11t e1whnnt11H'nt, bnt familiarity cl' r t a i n I y

Photograph by H. V . .Abel

.A Sl�CTJON OF ..\0.A:\-18 GLACIER

hr<'d rt'spt>ct and not contempt. In <"oming up the Yakima val­lt>y hy train, I have always sat by the wimlow. g-<'tt ing- ev­ny possihl<' 1,rlimpse of th<' lwautiful ,rnd s,vmmt'tric•a I Ill on n­ttti11 as it ro<;e 1,rr,md­ly at ti 11ws a hove the g-ra,v aIHI h·trt' hills o f t h <' forl'gronnd. Lookl'd at from a a thonsall<l vantage points to tlw t>ast­\HI r<l. tlw honr,v-lwa<l­<•d old volcano is II

<' o II s p i <' 11 o II s land­rn •1 r k on tlw \\'<'stern horizon. It rist>s head and shouldl•r, a hov<' t lw I a h y r i II t h of III o 1111 t a i II s which hP<l!!e it in on thP

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west and north. Its majestic pile, with its seeming amb ition of forming a connecting link b etween the earth and the sky,

is at once a som·ce of awe and inspiration to the mountaineer. On a clear day the view from the top of Adams is well

worth the climb . In ascending the mountain from the south it is not long lwfore )Jt. Hood appears 11s a very near neigh­b or. In a l ittle while, when the b eautiful dome of Hood ap­pears at its ht·st , one is delighted to find that in the same view Jeffr·rson has come prominently into the range of v ision, to the left of Hood and 50 m iles b eyond. A little later, when thf• del'JWr hazP of the lowlands is left b ehind, and more dis­tant views b ecome possib le, the Sisters a re seen just to the left of Jcffersm1 and rwarly 40 ll l iles farther south. From the sum­mit of Adal lls the cone of St. Ifoh,ns apJwars to fine advantage in its s�· ,nmetry and rPg-nlarity. It seems near enough to make one feel that tw eonld almost hit it wi th a snow-b all. Some of the detnils of its small irlaciPrs and i ts late lava flows can b e made out with the aid of a field irlass. Rainier, heavier snow-eapped than the others. is conspicuous 50 mi les away to­ward the northern horizon. Behn•t'n Adams and Rainier the maze of mountains is so complex that the eye t ires in its effort to untanirle 1hP 1 1111ltitnde of peaks and ridg-es and decipher the leading drainage lines. Looking 1�astward the ridges and low divides melt away in a receding plain that is finally lost m the haze of the far distant horizon.

Although somewhat removed from the main arteries of travel. Adams yet l i t's fairly convcniPnt for anyone who wonld make its closP acquaintance. It is occasionally visited b y parties with pack horses coming- from the northward, or more often from the Y11kima valley which lies to the eastward. A trail which has just b '-:'en completed makes it accessib le from the westward, up the Lewis River from the neighb orhood of St. Helens. The most common direction of approach is from the south. following the White Salmon valley for i ts ent ire length. The town of White Salmon, where the stream of that name joins the Colmnb ia, is easily accessib le b y either b oat or train. A good road, traversed daily b y stag-es and antomob iles, extends for 29 miles up the White Salmon valley to Gnler. At Guler there is a good hotel where one m'ly stop while exploring the lava con<.>s and the eonntry ab out the foot of the mountain, or while making his plans for the mountain aseent. From Guler

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The ill 011 11tai11ccr 7

a trail 14 m iles or so in length leads to a tPmporary camp on the southern slope of the mountain . The 1 rail a l l the way passes through an open forest of pine and tamarack, and rises to a height of about 4000 feet where a camp for the night is pitched by one of the ice-cold springs that issues from the mountain s ide.

The ascent of Adams is probably easiest made from the south. From a temporary cHrnp at 4000 feet the tri p to the top and bHck is readi ly made in a day. The timber l ine is passed at about 6000 feet and the foot of the first g-lacier is reached at 7500 feet. I t is possible to go s nbstHntially all of the way

Photograph by A. H. Denman

INTERIOR OF LAV A CA VF.

over the rocks a lone. or one can go rnnch of the way over the snow fields imd glaciers if he likPs. The hare slopes are made up almost exclusively of broken rock which have been pro­duced by glaciers or by the disrupting effects of extreme tem­peratures. The angular rock fragments are piled at steep angles and they often give way under a person's weight, so that some caution is necessary in picking the proper route. On the whole l\It. AdHms offers practically no serious ohstaclt>s to the c l imber and its ascent is made with as much or more eas� and safety than is true of any other of our great sno" caps.

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T It c :\lo u II ta i II ccr

To t lw l!l'Oloi.:ist ,\darns is of prime inkrt•st. It stands as a grPat voleann i n a SP,l of vulean ism. The volcanic firps at its bas(' ha ,·e hePn l il!hh·d so oftt,11 that a great cone has been hu i l t up whieh 1i,1s !wen but l i t t le ra ,· agnl h.v t iuw. The eone is compound in eharaet1•r and t he Jattr t•rnpt ions han· not oeeurrPd fro111 t lw top but from opt•n ing-s npon d ifft•rent sides of the 1 1 1ou1 1 ta i 1 1 . 011P of the last outbrt>Hks took plaee on t lw sonth s idt• of tlw cont> with in abont 4000 ft'Pt of the top . • \ g-rPa l tlow. or :�t>l'il's nf tlows. of lava pourP<l out here. making a d ist ind shonlder to tlw 1 1 1011nta i 1 1 . Tlw surfa1·1• of th is Java is hlaek. rop_v. fresh- look ing. a nd with v irtnally no soi l upon i t . I t PXtPnds down into 1 ht> forest wh<'l't' i t is co,·1•rt•d with a V<'l".V s1•a 1 1 t and stunt,,d tr<•e growt h. with l i tt le or no under­hrush.

Lookinl,! south and WP:-.t from Adams 01w st:>Ps a number of 1 1P i i,d1hori1q:r conPs, mmall,\· low and trt>t•-co,·pre<I. Th1·y ma)· h(• <�0 1 1 1 1 1•<' 1Pd by 11 11<h·r-l,!ro11 11<l p i pes or eoll(l 1 1 i ts with tlw giant that stan<ls ilC'sid1• th<.' 11 1 , or they ma,v all have ind<'pendt>nt roots r<.'a<.'!1inl,! down to thP molten 1 11 11 g1 1 1a lwlow the eHrth 's 1•rust. Tlwrt' H I'<' four or five low cmws nParly i n a row which 1•xti-11d from the :,;onth s ide of A<lams toward the Colnmhia River. AnothPr 1 1 1orP pro11 1 i 11 ent rom•. w i th charaetPrist ie out­l i 1 1 1 ·s. is J ,watt'd ahout fi \'(• 1 1 1 i lC's \\"(•st of Uul\'r. ,\ ltog-Pthl'r i t is an intpr1·st ing fip]d for t he studpnt of \"11 lc1mism, and one worthy of serious stndy.

Tht> ('1"11pti01 1 s fro111 ,\dams havP prod 1w1•d both IHvas and pyroclast ies . the former g-rPa t ly prPdo111 inat ing-. The la n1s h1ve lwl'11 1 1 10,tly basalt. with a minor quantity of amlt>sitt, . Tlw pyrocla«t ies l'l'Jll"Pse1 1t ashPs, 1· i ndPrs, pmnice. and ho11 1 b.s that ha \"P hPt•n pro<lllC'Pd as tlw rpsult of ,·iolent Pxplosions. Tlw la ms have h1•<'11 ontpoured wmally in g-rcat quant it ies so that to-day they a rP pHrt ly <"rystal l i 1 1 t> or porphyri t ic in 1 he ir character. Tht> basalt i s b lack i n color a nd HS a rule compaet and free from st\>11 1 1 1 holt•s. The andt•sitt> is �ray in color. fine g-ra ine<l, and prone to break up in broad th in slabs. i\o well­l i \'fined or 1 1 1arkt'<l crat\'rs Hl't' noted on t lw top of Adams, 1 1 1 1 1 1,.,s p\'reh•1 111'\' t ht>y a re to-day fil lrd with snow. It is not l ik l'ly that nny <'X<'1•pt possibly a s 11 1a l l crntl'r or two would be 1•xpos1•d i f 1 he snows of t lw two prn1 1 1 i rw1 1t snow-fit•lds at th i> s1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i t should wastt> awHy.

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The lava eruptions from Adams have been independent of the gTl'at basalt flows which characteriZl' tlw country to 1 he eastw11rd. The l11tter lrnve come up throug-h g-reat fissures rather than throug-h tuhes or other circular opt>nings. Such a method of orig-in g-ives rist> to g-rt>at sheets which are piled horizontally one upon another. This horizontal position is al­ways reta ined unless subsequently the sheets are arched and folded in the general proeess of mountain building.

Ever since the first explorers traversPd the upper White Salmon valley, tlw lava cones ahout Trout Lake and Guler h11ve been known. They occur for several rn ile.'l lengthwise of thP valley and some h11ve heen produced in one of the later l11 rn flows which has eome from the south sidt• of the great 111ou11t a in. The h i id1ways pnss above them and the traveler is made aware of their presence beneath him by the deep rumbling­soun<l which arises wlwn a veh icle passes over their roofs .. The roofs are sometimes arched and slightly broken so that en­trances may be effected into the caves beneath. One of the best known caves is located 1 1/:.! miles southwest of Guler. An entrance to the cave is easily possible through a hole in the roof at one point, and the descent to the floor made by means of a ladder. It is the custom to make torches of sticks of pine, filled with pitch, and bound tog-ether with wire. Such torches light up the c:we sufficiently to sf'e its size, shape, and other characteristics. It is about % of a mile in length, from 30 to 40 frt,t in width. and measures a bout the Rame from floor to roof. The floor is fa irly level. except where large blocks of rock have fallen down from the roof ; the sides are someti mes perpendicular. but usually lean outward somewhat from the center : the roof has a low arch, sometimes almost flat. The lava of the floor is ropy, jal,!i.red. and rough and shows stroug evidences of its once molten character. The lava of the sides is smoother and shows usually a curious ribbed effect like the sur­face of a wash-board.

From the analogy with the occurrence of lava caves else­where, it seems that the last sheet of lava flowed over a land surface that was very uneven and broken. It was doubtless roughened by many small stream channels which were winding and i rregular, but usually V-shaped in cross-section. A fresh flow of lava, after moving- over such a surface. would cool the slowest of all in the heart of the former winding ravines, where

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10 Tiu: .lf 01111tai11ecr

the new lava was thickest and where radiation would be slow­est. In the process of cooling there would come a time when the lav11 occupying an old ravine would cool and stick to the walls, as well as form an arch of cooled and hardened rock extending from one wttll of the ravine to the other. The cen­tral rnnss of lava, yet plast ic enough to flow, would continue to rnon> on, l l•aving in its wake a long, winding, irregular tube or cylindrical cav<'rn now known as a lava cave. It is easily Sl'<'n that caves prodnc<'d in this way would vary greatly in posit ion, ."h!! JW, P 111l sizt>. dependinir upon the varying pecu­liarities of the former valleys. Some of the caves are so near the surfaee that freezing temperatures prevail in them during the winter and i<•e formed at such times may not all be melted during the following summer. The water in the winter some­times scPps through the roof and i <:icles form l ike those on the eaves of a house. The icicles may grow to gi'.mt proportions and extend to the tloor, assmning- shapC's l ike the larger stalac­tites and stalagmites in li l llestone caves.

ThP glaeiPrs on Adams look like pigruies when compared with those Oil Rainier. or even Buker. The gre!lt snow-fi<.'lds or feeding grounds at the top are not large, hence the glaciers have no great h•ngf h. Only the largest reach the foot of the monntain. whilC' the others are perehed upon the flanks of the cone. That the g laciers W<.'re once of much greater length is readily shown by th<' old terminal nnd recessional moraines that now lie far bl',VOll(l th<' present melting points.

Mt. St. lfrlens

St. H!'lens is 1 he westernmost and the lowest of the fi ve great volcanoPs of ·w ashington. It is pasily visible from many view points among the lowlands that extend from the southern t ip of Puget Sound to the Columbia River. It has a cone of rare syrnllll'try and beauty. and is always dazzling snow-white, except for a few weeks at the close of summer. There are no very high mountains in i ts vicinity and the snow-locks of St. Helens always afford a striking contrast to the dark green rnountain ridges which fit like a picture frame around it.

The two common routes of ascent of the mountain are up the southern and northern slopes. The southern slope is not qnite so strep as the northern one but the route is a l ittle

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The M ountai11eer 1 1

longer. In ascending from the south it is necessary to go up the North Fork of Lewis river to a point opposi te the moun­tain and then travel for several m iles b efore b eginning the actual ascent. The great majority of v isitors to the mountain leave the railway at Castle Rock and go b y a good highway 46 miles to a camp at Spirit Lake. The trip may b e m ade b y team in a day, or b y an automob ile in a shorter time. During the summer good accommodations may b e had a t Spirit Lake, which is at the very foot of the mountain on the north side.

In makini,r the ascent from Spirit Lake the tra i l le11ds through the forest for three m iles, until the real foot of the mountain is reached, which coincidl.'s rather closely w ith the timb er line. In other words the sparse growth of timb er fai ls ab out the point where the steep cl imb ing b egins. The park-l ike nature of the forest. as t imb erline is approached, gives a touch of rare b eauty to the region. A c ircuit of the whole 1Uo1111tain at ab out t i1Ub erline or II little b elow looks very inviting and could prob ab ly b e made without much diffi­culty.

St. Helens in most respects is a typical volcano. and it affords an excellent opportunity to see and study vulcanism. Its eruptions seem to have all b een approximately from one opening and hence the symmetry of the cone is conspicuous. There are many evidences of very late eruptions and erosion has made b ut l ittle progress in the destruction of the mountain.

The erupted matter seems to b e confined almost wholly to two classes of material ; viz., l ava and pumice. The lava is far and away in excl.'ss over the pumice and makes up the great b ulk of the cone. The lava rock is mainly andesi te. with occasionally some b asalt. The andesite mmally contains some small crystals and varies in color from gray to red. The b asalt is always b lack, except for the small white crystttls of feldspar which may often b e seen with the naked eye. It was not until late in the history of the volcano that explosive ac­tion gave rise to large amounts of pum ice which were ejected from the crater. At the pl'l'sent time the northern slopes of St. Helens are covered with fragments of pumice which have ac­cumulated to the depth of many feet. In asct'nding the moun­tain on this side the route for much of the way is over the soft pumice rock which rnakl'S the climb ing very lab orious. In the ejection of the pumice much of i t was thrown high in the a ir

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1 2 The .\/01111tai11ca

and 1·a rriP1l hy t lw willds to points rather far removed from the mo1111tain. It ha,; hr1•n fo1 1 11 <l at points more than 20 mile� away 011 thr north awl th<' west .

Orw of t ht> 11 1 ost intfor\'stinl,! inridt>nts connected with tht' laYa <'l't1 ptio11s \\' •i s tlw faf't 1 1rnt as t lw lava arosc> through t lw tnhe or rondnit in t lw <'arth's crust. it b roke off many frag­nrents of thP solid rock alcrng- tlw wa�· and b roug-ht these to th,• snrfaet> . In otl11.>r wor1ls. tlw rising- lava b roke off and engulfed n 1 1 1ch of thr solid roc·k with which it came in contact on its wa,\· to th1• snrfaep 1111<1 such rock is now g-t>nPrally <lis .. eminatefl thro11 1.d1 tlw n11 pktl rnaterial. All over the northwestern slope of tl1<• 11 101 1 1 1 tai11 tlw larn hloeks. J arg-e nnrl smal l . have many ang-11 l ar fn1g-111ents of some other roek containPd within them. Tlw inclndnl roek at first sig-ht seems to b e granite, b ut in reality it is s�·enitP. It is rather coarsely crystalline and b e­ca 1 1s1' of its mottled color it ap1wars as conspicuous inclusions in the la\•a b loeks. The syt>nite frag-ments occur in all sizes and are alwa�·s an1,r11lar in ontlin<'. The J in-a was plastic enough to complt>tt>ly t•ni.rnlf tlw hloeks of syenite and yet not hot enough to chan1,rt> their charac t c>r and appearance. The vol­eano, St. l l <'l<>ns. S<'C'IIJS to lw sit11 att,<1 upon a floor or platform of syl'nite. This b asal rock is hiddt'n b y the spreading, cone imd its prc>st•nce would not he readily detected if b locks f rom it had not lwt>n torn off and hronght to the surface b y the rising lava . The orii.rinal cond11it mnst have b t.>en in the syenite and thro1 11,rh this throat or t 1 1 lw the molten rock escaped to the surface in the N1rliest stages of the volcano's history. It is prob ab le that each s11ce1•1•di11 1,r eruption l'X1 ende<l the walls of the conduit b y b reaking off portions of the syenite and hence securing the inclusions which we now find ab undantly in the lava b locks.

The 1,rlaciers of :\lt. St. Heh�ns are small. It is not prob ab le th11 t any one of them exePe:ls a ll'ng-th of one and one-half miles. Tlwy are n arrow streams of ice. largt>ly b uried b y deb ris near their melting ends, and g-iving- rise to small rivulets only. The mountain is not high enough to receive a great snow-fall and hence there is an ab sence of the necessary snow fields which s1°rvJ as fet0din1,r grounds for glaciers of maximum size. · After all , the chief glory of St. Helens is in its capacity of a sleeping volcano and not as a centn of an important glacial system.

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The JI 0 1111tai11ccr

MOUNT ADAMS

EDMOND s. M EANY

I Hon, solid, broad, and buttressed th)l base of roe/es doth rest On earth's great primal platform beneath the sands and cla)ls, To hold secure th)l shoulders, th)l high and gleaming crest, Serene in storm or sunshine through Time's eternal da31s!

Wild winds ma)l whirl, Cold snowdrifts swirl, And thunders hurl

Their blazing spears lo rend and blast; Th31 sides ma)l shake, The wide plains quake,

But, lo ! th)l deep-set granite holds thee firm and fast.

ll These rock-hewn caverns, Th31 vaulted taverns,

Where Arctic sprites in revels hover! Wee knight ma)l prance With lifted lance,

His rival drive to darkling cover, And then perchance, In languid dance,

Demure/31 seeks a frost caf'lled gem for elfin lover.

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III

Thy la�es, thy flon,er-stren,n gardens, all lead lo fields of snon,,

Lead up until n,e listen for star-led singing choir.

We pause on pendent glacier, a river's frozen flan,,

Or climb on rigid lava, on hardened ancient fire.

Ah, transcendent glon,

On ice, on ancient fire!

Who n,ould dare to measure

Our mountain's lavish treasure,

When fingers, giant fingers, aye point us high'!r, higher ;,

IV

A ttained at last thy summit, thy cron,n above the cloud;

We stand in an,e; Thy altar's lan,

Condemns the soul that n,ill not still,

With spirit bon,ed,

H on,ever proud,

And let Cod's glory every trembling fibre thriil.

EDMOND s. MEANY. Wri tten on Mt. Adams outing at eamp

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Plate /1 /.

Photograph bt Fred Q. Gorton

KILLING CREEK AND SNOW BRIDGE. THE ASCENT OF ::I-IT. ADAMS WAS MADE FROM THIS CAMP.

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Th e ill 011 1 1tai11ur

TIIE :\fT. ADAMS OUTIKG OJ1' 1911

,v, N o N A BA1LF.Y

To walk from :.\It . Ra in i1•r to t lw l'oh1 111 hia ri n•r, one­t h ird the dist11 11<'P ,1cross the �tat<' of \Vashingto11. nlong the grent diYidl' b etWP<'n the Pastt'rn and ,,·1•skrn st>etions, and to s1·alc the S<'COIHI hig-hPst pt>ak in the state, was the ob ject the

Photograph by H. A. Fulh·r

COW LITZ FERRY

:.\lonntairwcrs had set heforp them for the s 11 111 Ill e r o f 1 9 1 1. To do this requirt>d twe n t y­one tla�·s of tra Yl'I , and sixtPl'll diff'l•r­ent camps scat­terP<l along- a tot.--1 1 distancP o f o n e h11 11drP1l and sixty-two miles.

The• party left Seattle at Sl'\'Pll o'clock Oil tlH' moming of July l:i b y special t>:i r for Ashford 1war thP Plltranep of Rainier �at ional Park. A pack train of thirty horsPs had hroug-ht s11ppliPs north from Ult•nwolHl 11mkr thP dirPction of :\I r. ,\llwrtson of the outing t•ommitteP and lll<'t ns a t Long-min• 8prin)!s. \Vhile the walk lwg-an at Ashford mid t lw first camp was mnde eleven miles from tlwrt• at Kautz Fork, it was not until 11 1 1 tht> du111111gP had hePn earri<•<l aero,s thP rushing- :'\isq ually on a foot log-, and load1•d on the waiting horses. th,1t tht• rt•al trip lwgan.

Then with a thrill of joy to b e once more with the peaks and tlw running- watPrs. W<' <'lltt'rl•d upon the trail, the trnil that led sometimes through deep forpst, moss-carpeted, some­times along slopes sparsely forestt•d with many a view into depths b elow or across to wooded hillsides : now over high ridg-es, along their sharp ed)!l'S, or across g"rent snow-fields : often do,vn 11nd down on! .'" to elinrh ngnin som<' new !wight.

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Tire .\I 01t11tai11ccr

It led through the great spectral forest, the wide tab le-land, when' onee a mighty l iving forest stood. b ut now there are only silvery trunks and ghost-like arms with dust and ashes under­neath, a region well-niid1t majestic in i ts dt•sol!! tion ; or through the open forest of the yellow pine and larch, with the straw­b erry pntelws in the l,!l'ass, over a forest-grown lava tlow until it dropped down b etween the Inst gr<'en hills, along the last clear trout strealll to the rolling waters of the Columb ia .

And the camps were quite as varied as the tra ils, now b <'side a glacial ri ver, tlwn along a crystal stream. in among the fallen t imb er, in the flowers, under trees. or in the open, hy a lnkl' or near a hilltop. wlwrc no man had camped b efore us. where th<' Indi an had his tepee. or thP rang<'r and the ranelwr b uilt a cab in and then left it .

The early part of tht' t rip led east in tht' upper p<trt of the Cowlitz valley iilong the old Yak ima In­dian tra ii. R11ecPs­sive camps were made at BPar Pra irie near the Tatoosh rnntre at the ht>r1d of Rlrnte Creek. on the h,rnks of the Cowlitz. nt thr Clrar Fork and in Cowlitz Pass. T h c Cowlitz. w h e r e w e crosse<l i t near Lewis, is a b road, smooth, g-ray rivt'r, one of the larg1'st glacial strrams in the state. It is crossed hy a ferry with overhead cab le where free rides furnished an even­ing's amnscnwnt.

Cowlitz Pass. unlike . most mountain pass­es. covers a large

Photograph by H. B. Hinman

TIETON CREEK

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The M ou11tai11ecr 17

area, ab out five square m iles, a park-like country covered with grass and flowers and clumps of firs and many a little lake left b y the melting snow b anks. Here Mr. Bennett, who had left the pack train some days earlier to scout the trip from Goat Rock to the pass, met us, and our company of sixty-four wa.q complete. Here too, b egan that fine st>ries of views. From every vantage point the eye turned b ack to 1\H. Rainier rising in radiant majesty to the north ; the higher we climb ed the higher rose the mountain, the more mighty i ts proportions. The Tatoosh range shrank to foot hills, the Sluiskins scarcely equalled them. From west of Paradise valley and the Nisqnally glaciPr we could see across the Cowlitz to little Tahoma a nd the White glacier, and could trace on the skyline very nearly the course the Mountaineers took i n 1909, while the regular tourist route to the summit lay exposed as on a map. Soon Mt. Adams in the other direction b egan to lift its great white dome ab ove Old Snowy and the Goat Rocks and when we reached the ridge of Hogb ack :.\fountain three days later the shining cone of St. Ht>lens stood forth in the west, and from that time on we traveled within a vast triangle marked at its corners b y three to,vering isolated peaks. For fourteen days we walked and camped at an average elevation of one mile ab ove the sea.

At Cowlitz Pass we turned directly south. Thus far the trail had b een clear, a mere introduction to the journey, b ut of the sixty miles b etween the pass and Mt. Adams nearly forty m iles lay through pathless country and was covered b y sending men ahead to scout and b laze the way, for the trails shown on the map were either fragmentary or had b ecome ob l iterated.

Twice we were allowed an unexpected day of rest, once at }Iilridge Creek and once at Shoe Lake, partly to give time for careful trail work, and partly owing to the serious i llness of Paul Kuhnhausen, one of the packers. For six days he l ay b eside the stream at 1\Iilridge Creek protected b y a tent of fir b oughs. and nursed b y ,vill ing hands, for men of the party stayed b ehind and watched b eside him until friends came with Dr. La Motte, our comrade of the earlier part of the trip. Then the sick man was carried out on a stretcher to his b rother's home at Lewis and later made a complete re­covery.

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The JI 0 1111ta111crr

It was up-hill work from ) f i lridge Creek to the Hogback, but once up, the lwst of all the trip str<>tched out before us. For the first timl' the great trhnglt-' of peaks became colllplete an<l evt'rywher(' as far as t'Yt' e<mld n•1H'h in i nfin ite variety of contour st rPtdwd thP mountains of the C'asead1• Range. whi lP just a head I :oat Hoc ks sr<�mcd struggl ing to t•o11-ceal )It. Adams. Uoi11g ovPr onto tlw ('IIStPrll s1 : , • · p of the Hogback the new melll hers h a d t h c i r first

Photogrn ph hy Chni;. S. Gleai;on

SHOE LAKE

s11ow work and lt•arrwll what switeh-hack 111ca11t and tht' order, · · A lpP11-stock aho\"c you. "'

,Just bl'low the Hogback, 6:WO ft,<'t abov,, sea l evel. i n a crater-like depression. nestles Shoe Lake, dest inPd to be our home for thn•e n ights and two days. A most delightful camp it proved. slwliPrcd a<, it was from cold winds, with good graz­ing for th(' horses, pknty of room and watn and sunshine for the long deferred lnnndry, and a fine bathing pool lwyond the wondnl point. At sunset a11d at sunrise, too. an invigorat ing f' l i 111b of twent�· minutes put one where he left the world and the kingdoms of it wen• at his feet. Bi>yond the deep chasms of the T ieton rost• Goat Rocks and somewhere on those moun­tains was a raehe, provisions for many days to come, bnt there was no trai l ncross. At a w·11eral assembly i t was thong ht best to si>nd dow11 to R 1 1sseJ l 's ranch for fresh ment and i nformat ion about trai ls. Lt•ader Bdt and Dr. H inmnn made the thirty-11 1 i lt:' tri p all(l found David :\leColl. a Scotch lad and sheep­herder, who said he eonld t11ke the horses to Goat Rocks with­out dt>seen<li ng del'P into tlw valley of the Tieton.

A h<Jr<l day was expected on l t,aving- Shoe Lake nnd each horse in the pack train had a leader, but the freshly b lazed tra ii provc>d one of the most del ig-htfnl of the trip. Keeping on tlu• hig-h ground of the divide, between the ::,..:orth Fork of thP Tieton and the C'l (•ar Fork of the Cowl i ti. WP reaehed i n 111i1l -aftpr110011 a <'harming mountain meadow hounded on one

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The M 01111tai11ccr 19

side by a glacial torrent dashing out from the gorge of a miniature b ox canyon. A little frequented spot it appeared to be. Before we left, b y unanimous vote and with much en­thusiasm, it w11s named :\lcColl Basin, 11fter our new Scotch friend who had led us to it.

\Ve Wt're now on the north slo1w of Goat Rocks and. to reach the pass ab ove. tht' horst>s would have to cross a glacit•r, so volunteers were again called for to lead them. They took a somewhat different route from the rest of the party and at noon as we lunched on an opposite hillside we saw in the

Photograph by Carlyle Ell is

:McCOLL"S BASIN

distance the long thin line of animals and their h>aders wind­ing tlwir zig-zag course now up along tlw side of Tieton gin· ciPr, then hack and forth on a seemingly perpendicular monn· tain side. Sometimes tht>y would stop for snch a long time that we feared the trail had provt>d too 1hngProu.s, hut again creep­ing slowly on tlwy were lost to vit•w over the pass b efon• the l't'st of tht> party Wt'rt' well upon till' snow slopt'. Boots h,id fortunatt>ly been W<'ll calkPd tht> night b efore, for the slope was steep and steps had to he madt> careful ly. In conqnny formation with Leadn Belt alwad. a lieutt>nnnt in front of e,H'h company of eight or nint> and a captain behind to watch and give instrul'tions. we moved slowly across the widP snow-field

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The Jfo11 11tai11ccr

with t he str8 nge 1·o<>ky pinnacles 11b ove. the smooth, b ri ll iantly colorPd !-;lopl'S of T it•ton l'Pak ahr·1 d. and the vallry dropping strrp away b elow. The pass reached at 7000 feet, another fieid of soft snow in whif'h we sank knl'e-d PPp took us into the valley of the Sonth Fork of the Tieton 1111d we b egan to look for �nrprist> Lake. which we Wl're told was to b e onr camping­g-round for thP nig-ht. P(•rhaps th<•re is a Surprise Lake, hut our surprise was to comr suddenly, near dnsk, upon a camp­firP w ith :.\lr. Carr lwsi ,fo i t and a b ountiful hot dinner, to whif'h W(' did sJW('dy trib ute. stopping not to remove grease­pa int. hlack. whih>, or red . IforP. on a b leak hillside, a place wherP only shet'p could find subsistence. was the cache of six­tf'PI I hundrPd po111Hls of food left there a few weeks earlier h�· the packers.

A steep climb of eight hundred f<'et b rought us to a ridge onrlook ing- the 1 1 1ag1 1 ific('nt c ir,1ne at the head of the Klickitat. Skirting this we found ours(•lves again b elow the sharp scaling spirt•s of the Goat Roeks. This pass ing of t he sonth side and tlw <'l imb tlw day lwfore on th<> north furnished our only close acquaintance with this intPrest ing group of mountains, a region littl<' visitPd and well worth a s11mmer's onting-. As we lunched on till' rocks b efore crossing to western slopes near Cispns Pass :.\Jr. Bertsch i. forest rang-Pr of that d istrict. met us anrl for four days was om friend and adviser. guiding b y shorter routes to the i:rrt>at mountain. through the region of the ghost trees. Among thl'm 11 little spring l ike an oasis in the desert furnished site for a ranger's c ab in known as Short Trai l Camp and here we spent the night. :--:ext camp was at the Indian tl'JH'P on the vast tab l e-la 1 1cl that slopes from Adams on the north and \\"t•st. Herl' thP Indian, perhaps for ages, has camped in huckleh<'rry season b eside a clear, cold stream under the vny shadow of the mounta in.

On the fiftPenth day at noon, we reached the mountain camp, a typical little 11 1Padow-hasin on Killing Creek on the north sidP of )It. Adams at 6000 feet. Ab ove was the lava ridge on which WP were to climb lwtween the Adams and the Lava glaciers. The commissary stream came leaping down in white spray under a t hin snow-hridge, turned a right angle and lhshed on to th<' rnlleys. On rvt>ry hand were tiny lakelets furni-;hing fine lanrnlry and swimming pools. Trees fringed

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The Mo1111tai11rcr 2 1

the !!lnde except towards the mountain. where snow b anks l ined the b asin rim. a sitl' that ri valled Buck Crt>Pk Pass. the permaiwnt camp of the rn1wil•r P<:>ak outing.

Tlw afternoon was s1wnt in prt>parntions for th<:> loll!! ant ir ipatt>d c irrus. tlw stlqwndons 1-qw<•tacle that fornwd thP climnx of thl:' fun of camp-firp progrnms. 'l'hP t>VPning t'nh'r­tainrnents of this outing Wl'l'l' somewhat rurtail<•d !weans<:> of length of mareh and hrk of t inu' in camp. b ut who that heard them will ever forgPt th<:> taln; that were told, the instrnctive

Photograph by Frt•d Q. Gorton

CAMP IN THE GHOST FOREST

talks on photographs and stars. the history. the l <:>gends, and the Vl:'l'St•s of onr prl:'sident, the orchestra of onr musical b rethren. the song-s that shortened the m iles or relievl:'d a mo­ment of perplexity ! Every Sunday there Wlls a lwnntifnl, rest­ful service of worship with pulpit and sounding b oud of alpine firs and pews on grassy slopes.

It was decided when the climb was made to b reak camp at Killing Creek. send a ll supplies and dunnage b y pack train around the western flank with any who d id not care to go with the climb ers over the mountain. On Monday, July 31, the rising call sounded b efore daylight and with hasty packing of dunnage and still hastier hreakfost the whistle b lew and fifty-

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Th e :\! 01111tai11 ccr

two peoplP lint>d up ready for the start. At four-fifty we marched ont of camp. In nine hours and twenty minutes we stood on thP summit of )lt. Adams, 12.307 feet ab ove the sea. ):o difficulties were encountered at any point. For nearly five thousand fet>t tht> climb was on lava rock affording good foot­ing, tlwn almost a mile across II snow-field of e ·i s,Y gradP to within three hundred feet of the top where the snow piled steep and dome-like. The day was clear onl,,· in the upper regions. Below, a smoky haz<' filled all the valleys and hid t lw lt>sst>r 1waks. Tlw eorws of :\It. Rainier and )It. St. Hel<>ns WPre clear ab ove i t all day, and when tlw top was reached :\Jt. Hood appenred in the southern ht>avens, a while peak with no apparent b ase upon the earth.

The t ime on top was short. Aftt0r the usual picture-taking b y co111paniPs and groups, the tiag was unfurled and one verse of America sung- and with a circle around the east end to look down on th(• head of the great Klickitat <aaei<'r, we dropped ov<'r the south side to find t lw :\lnzama record box chaim•d to a little rocky ledgP. To open this. examine its assortment of c<irds and papers, 11nd then sign tlw r<>cord hook took all too long, and thr IPadn's fa,•(• grew anxious as he announced the hour and th<> possihlt> distancP from camp. The d<>scent on the south was ro('k-work : an oecnsional pocket of snow g:ive a hriPf r<>st from the rock-;, but we WPre too far to the W(•st for the tine coasting slopes. and the b <>st sliding- we had was a sort of b u111p-tlw-hu111ps pprformancP. Sharp <'Y<'S kept a look-out for tht• piwk train or the fri<>ndly s111oke of the camp-fire we krww would b P b u ilt sonrPwhPr<' lwlow. Xone appeared. At six o·clock a trail was reached that soon led into another much traveled trail showini:r thP tracks of many horses. Dark conr­i rrg on se<>11 1ed to doub le the miles. !mt at nine a cheerful whistle a1111011nePd 11 fri<'rnl with t lw rnt•ssagP, "Camp only half a mile away." There a hot d inner was wait in�. and hands ready to s <'rve i t . Tlw llll'lllher;, o f the party who had g-one around the west side had not only walked nearly twent.v mile.,; over hard trail b ut had st>lect<'d a camping spot for everyb ody and carried Pach onp's dunnage to i t. XevPr w<'re conquerors more warmly welconwd. rwver did th<'y find more preparat ions for their com­fort. This place was :\lorrison Crt•l•k r1lllg'l'r's station. Next day we rPstNI th<>r<', and t lw report of the cli111h was sent out to the papcrs.

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Plate XXV.

Photograph by Chnrl•·s Albertson

INDIAN TEPEE CAMP

f· ...

Plate XXVI.

Photogrnph by Chari .. � Albertson

MO{'XTA I NEERS OX A STEEP SI.OPE AROl'T FIFTY FEET BELOW THE SUMMIT OF MT. ,\ J>A:\IS

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l'lat.: J V.

Photograph by H. B. HINMAN

FI RST BASIN IN GOAT ROCKS A FTER LEA YING McCOLL"S BASIN

Plate V.

Photograph by C. R. Corey

THE PACK TRAIN CROSSING LA \",\ G LACIF.R ON TRIP NORTH.

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Th e M 01111 tai11err 23

The following day :"\T iss Lulie i'\ettleton, :\Ir. Gorton and J[r. Bennett made a second climb of the mountain, leaving Jforrison Creek camp at four fifty-five, following the even snow slopes of the south side and rPaching the summit at eleven. Tlwy spent two hours on top. then coast ing most of the w 'ly, came down more than ffre thousand feet in forty-five minutes, returned to our camp of the night b efore for an hour's r<•st and joined the main party at Trout Lake thirteen mi les farther on, <'Oming in just as c11 1 11p-fire was over.

Camp was three m iles out from the s<•ttlement at Trout Lak<'. in a beautiful grovP of pine and lareh in the Jav1 cave reg-ion l'he largest cave visited appeared from the surface as a g1·pat nole in a heap of rocks. Two laddns INl down into it and then with the help of pitch pine knots. we follom•d over sharp rocks a virnltPd passage widP and hig-h for several hun­clred feet to where it b ranched into smaller archways. This region is full of caves which ,11•e111 l ik<• great hubb ies in a stream of lava that once tlowed down from Jit. Aciams to the Columb ia river. In the vicinity of our c11mp another smaller cave was found and explored and it was said two hundred others had b een counted. So numerous are they and their opening-s so hiddPn in the grass and rocks that a horsehack ridn at night is in dang-n. Wati>r has seeped into ia.ome and frozen into great pipe-organ colnnms or stalactites and stalagmites of ice that the hi>at of summer never o,·ercomes.

The trail from the ice eave to Oklahoma rang-n's station. where the next night's halt was made, wc1s one rec·Pntly b u ilt and led across a ridge into the vc1lley of thc Little White Sal­mon through heantiful forests of white pine and fir. The milder character of the country made the trip of the last few days seem more like local walks than the real mountaineering of the summer's outing. By this t ime, too, our company was much reduced b ecause a numb er had gone home early from Trout Lake.

The lc1st day the trail wi<lened into th<> road. tlw foot log into the strong b ridge, farm houses were prissed at intervals until finally the whistle of a locomotive was heard and we knew the solitude of the hills was ours 110 more. At a sharp b end in the road, high on the hillside we caught the first g-limpse of the mighty Columb ia. A last night was spent on its b anks,

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Tlzc Jfo 1111 tai11ccr

and the next day a 1m1rvelous ride on its waters, through the loeks. p11st tlw rapids. past the hridg-e of the gods, and the 1111 1 11t•runs cascnt!Ps, for111ed a fitt ing- el i nrnx to a most success. ful 011t i11g".

l\l EMBERS OF THE PARTY *H. V. Abel, Lieut. Co. E t•Nancy E. Jones

t•Chas. Albertson, Member of Staff •Emil Krahnen, Lieut. Co. C t•E. W. Allen, Capt. Co. A Dr. La Motte ( to Lewis only )

Bernice E. Balley *Winona Bailey

t•H. May Baptie •Katherine Bathurst *H. C . Belt , Leader •Mrs. H. C. Belt

Mrs. La Motte ( to Lewis only) • Adna W. Leonard, D. D. Anna Llverson

t•Lydla E. Lovering "Winifred MacFarland

Vida Mathews •A. H. Brackett, Capt. Co. D •Prof. E. S. Meany

t••Pror. H. B. Bennett, Member of •Prof. R. E. Moritz Statr t•Lulle :S-ettleton

•Hazel Burroughs •Crissie Cameron tLlnda M. Coleman

t•Prot. C. R. Corey, Lieut. Co. B *Fidelia Davis • A. H. Denman

L. Mabel Dufford •Carlyle Ellis •Helen Ericson

H. A. Fuller •Mabel Furry

t•Chas. S. Gleason, Capt. Co. B •Ruth Gleason •w. H. G orham, Capt. Co. F •Kathleen Gorham

t••F. Q. Gorton, Member of Statr *R. J. Hageman, Lieut. Co. F

t•Mary L. H ard *H. H. Hastings, Jr. , Lieut. Co. A •or. H. B. Hinman, Capt. Co. E *Mrs. H. B. Hinman •Evelyn Irish *Edith Jackson

•Jnd l<'ates asC'ent of M t. Adams. tlndlcates ascent of Mt. Hood.

Anna Newman *Mabel Odell •Mary Paschall

Pror. Otto Patzer •Roger Payne Frank Preston

•Stella Scholes •Josephine Scholes tAlma Shurtz *A. Hermine Stauber

t•Gertrude I. Streator •E. K. Trio], Lieut. Co. D •R. Weller *H. L. Will is, Capt. Co. C Mrs. H. L. Willis Margaret Willis

•H. E. Wilson t•Clara A. Worthington

•Geo. E. Wright, Member or Staff Dr. Martha Wyman

tRobert Carr, Cher •w. C. Scroll, Assistant •Crawford Allen, Assistant

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Th e .\! 0 111 1ta111ccr

Photograph by Chas. S. G leason

ON THE SC:MMIT

MOUNTAIN LUPINE

EDMOND S. MEANY

Blue of the sea, blue of the sh,,

Blue of the glacier's deep !

0, n,ine of the niinds n,here free eagles fly,

I come lo thy home, blue lupine, I leap.

/3lue of the sea, blue of the sty,

Blue of the glacier's deep !

0, flon,ers n,here the snonis carressingly lie

Fer aye n,ith the stars companionship teep.

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21i The ,U 01111tai11ccr

AN ASCENT OF .MT. HOOD BY MOUNTAINEERS

CHARLES S. GLEASO�

The prospectus of 1 he l\fountai,wers' annual outing for Ell 1 to '.\l t . Adarm,, tht' Uoat Rocks. and the Columbia river stat(,(! that the company would embark for the trip down the river at a point nearly opposite I lnod Rivt'r, the starting point for cl imhing '.\It. Hood, and that a party might be organized for that purpose.

The thought of climbing two mountains, each over 11,000 feet high, iu mw sC'ason was fascinating. Along the trail and around tlw c11 111p-firrs from Ashford to Ki l ling Creek camp on tlll' shoulder of '.\ l t. Adams. eager questions were heard con­ct>rning the length and difficulty of the climb.

The vims was working. When the summit of '.\It. Adams was r(•ached and the eyPs sweeping- the horizon a bove the clouds that filled the valJl,ys. beheld in the north the massive pile of Rainier and in the Wl'st the rounded cone of St. Helens and. turning south and looking- across fifty miles of rolling vapor. rested upon the sh11 rp cross of Oregcm 's pride, l\It. Hood itself, the disease bl.'came epidl.'mic.

By the time the company reached the Columbia a party of eighteen. thirt<>cn of whom had climbed l\Jt. Adams, was organizl'd for the :'.\Jt. Hood trip. A leader was chosen, a com­missary and a transportation committee selected, Carr engaged to do th<> cooking, and funds collected pro rata and placed in the hands of a treasurl.'r to make the paying of b ills as painless as possible.

The transportntion committee went to Hood R iver on the bont Friday afternoon, August 4, to find a camping place and nrrang<> for a boat to meet the )forth Bank train at Underwood.

Aft<>r dinner the last camp-fire was held, Auld Lang Syne snnl,!. good-hy sa id and at 8 :30 we took the train for liuder­wood with our dunnag-e bags, commissary supplies and cooking outfit. By m i<lnight we were in our sleeping bags on the sand­spit in front of Hood River.

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Plate VI.

Photograph by Charles S. Gleason

MT. HOOD ( 1 1 . ��5 FT. )

Platc I 'II.

Photograph hy C'hnrl<>" S. Glea,<on

s t · �nl JT cw :\IT. HOOD

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The :l/01111tai11ccr 27

Rising call was somlllP<l early Saturday morning and b re:ik­fast was over in time to give the ladies a chance to do their first shopping in thn'<' wcPks b efore the train left for Park­dn l<', twPnty-three miles up the Hood river valley.

Lunch was snvrd from our own snpplit>s nt Parkdale, elevation 1800 feet, and Ht one o'clock we stnrted on a twelve­mile hikt> along- tlw wagon road up t lw north sid1• of �It. l lood .

It was hot and thc road was dusty and a st l0ady uphill pnll, b ut three wl'eks spent in the open and onl' hundred and seventy­five 111ih0s of trn111ping- mountain trails ha<l mnde the party ' • fit." The first fiyp mill's was among- the fruit farms of the upper v al­ley, the last seven through densl' pi1w forest to camp about 600 fcpt lwlo,v ti111her line npar Cloud Cap Inn. a t�·pical sm11-111er rl•sort hotel at an elevation of 5800 feet.

Sunday was spent rt>sting- for tlw climb on the morrow, studying- the route up the 11101111tain, photographing the peak with und without a cloudcap. talking with :\I iller, tlw monntairr guide who frankly admitted that a party of )lonntaineers did not need his sPrvicPs, an:1 in ohsnving tlw g-11t>sts of thP Inn and permitting them to ob serve us to our 11111t1rn l edification, khaki snits, calked b oot<;, alpenstocks and tannl'Ll face,; making a striking contrast with white tlannels, t<•nnis shoes. parasols and lily white complexions.

\Ve invited the gtwsts to visit our camp and they proved to b e "good fellows all '', showed great interest in our sleeping­b ag-s and camp equipment and said they enjoyed our camp-fire songs and the stories we told of onr long hike.

jlt. Hood stands in the doory:ml of Cloud Cap 111 11 , or just over the fence, and towers OVl'r 5000 fel't ab ove it. Swt>eping down directly toward the Inn lies the nrngnifict>nt Elliott Glacier.

By 4 :30 o'clock l\Iondny morning we had had b reakfast and sixteen of the party started on the climb . Our route was along the east side of Elliott Glacier to the summit of Cooper's Spur three mill's away and 2800 feet above camp. \Ve then turned to the right and climlwd the steep snow-field at the head of \'ewton Clark Glacier to Crescent Crevasse where the slope b ecame Rtt>eper and renche<l an angle of sixty-five drgrees which it mainta ined to the summit. From this point we availed OllrSPlves of the rope 1400 feet Jong anchored near

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The .\lo1111tai11ccr

the smmnit each season hy the iruidt•s, and c l imb ing hand over hand, rPachc<l the s11111111it, elevation 1 1,225 feet, at 12 o'clock.

The stt>ep climb was a novrl \'XJwrience for :\Ionntaineers aec11stomed to elimb the n111ssive snow-covered domes of our \Yashi11irto11 mo1111tH in 1waks. and when we reached the sum­mit we found not snow and ice, b ut b are volcanic rock.

ThP vit'W of thr Willamettr valley on the west was ob­se11n•d hy !wavy (' fonds. hut to t lw north nnd east was spread t lw lwautiful panorama of the Columb ia valley, while b eyond w1•rp mill's and mih•s of \Vashing"ton whrat-fields, and on the nortlwrn horir.011 stood our old friend )It. Adallls upon whose mig"hty snow cap. 1�.a07 ft,pt ab ove the sea, we had stood just ont.> Wf'ek hPfort>. BPyond Adarns. ahov,• the C'louds, wa;, the s11111111 it of old Ra inier, 1-l ,5:W feet h igh. To the east and south­east through b rohn rlouds we caught glimpses of the great plaills of Eastern Ort>g-on, while in the south rose the pinnacle of l\lt. ,Jefferson and l>t'yond the Thn'e Sisters.

After lunch on the s11111111 it under the lea of a pile of rock to l'seape the b iting' wind and an hour s1wnt in photographing the srcnery upon our memory and ourselves with the camera, we h<'g-an the deset'nt hackwartl down the rope hand under hand. tlwn coasted down a mile of snow slope and were in camp hy 3 :30, happy that we could carve the names of two mountains upon onr al1wnstocks for the year 1911.

TuPsday we walked twelve mi l es to Parkdale, took the train to I Iood R iver and tlw stPamPr down the Columb ia to Vmwnnn'r. and rPaelwd St>attle Wi>dni>sday morning-, August 9.

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0 (Q "" N (l) Q_

er '<

I'latr 1 ·111.

ELLIOT GLACIER ON MT. HOOD Photograph by Mabel Furr�·

The Mo1111tai11ccr

MEANY

As valiant as the eagle in his heaven,

As stead/ ast as the iron rocks, hard riven;

As IVarm as sunshine after rain, as sn,eet as sleep is after pain,

As golden as the sunset grain, as peace upon the heart had lain;

Refreshing as the IVood's n,ind after shon,ers,

Or strong as mother love-or mountain ton,ers :

Yea, even so is he-and he is ours,

And so, to him, these n,ild and n,ind-blon,n flon,ers.

A. H. A,

29

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:1u Tire .l!o 11 11tai11ccr

F.lll\lUND STEPHEN MEANY. M. L.

Pre,si<l<'nt of the Mountaineers.

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The JI 01111 tai11ccr 31

•cLDIBS IN TH�� SOUTHERN SELKIRKS

EDWARD ,v. HAR� DEN

' 'I fail Columb ia !" That is what I could ha\'e appropriately sung. even in Canada, on the Fo111· · h of ,July this year. 11s the "Klahowya" lab oriously forced her shallow b readth against the winding- cnrrt>nt of the ni1wty-mile stretch from Golden. on the C:rnadian P11cific road, to the head water, of tht> Columb ia river. The visit of 1910 with l\Tr. Herb ert W. Gleason to the snow and ice clad sources of the s ream, as told to read('rs of the l\Iountaineer last year. had heen fascinat ing- b ut disap­pointing. Like �loses, we had seen b ut had not entned upon the promisNl land. Our trip to th<' head of two of tht• we�tcrn trib utaries. Tob y and Horse Thief creeks, rising in the very crest of the southern Selkirks. had afforded us glorious Alpine views of unclimb ed and almost unknown peaks : b ut protracted forest fir<>s had t>nforePd an idlene,s which had left us in b ad climb ing condition and had so shortem•d our t ime thnt. inst1•ad of leaping- joyously from crHg- to crag, we conic! simply scurry ab out and size up what we would like to do another year. In­stead of sitting haughtily aloft. "like Jupiter on Olympus, looking down from afar upon rnt>n's l in's." we had simply

"W al/ted right in, and turned around, And n,all(ed right out again."

)fr. Gleason's plans for 191 1 <lid not p(•rmit of n rPsnmption of activities in the region : hut 1 had g-rt>at ly intl'n•sted two Boston mountain-climb ing friends-Mr. Gl'orge D. Emerson, a fellow )l ountaineer HD<l Appalachi an. and his wif(•-and thPr were awaiting me on the morning of July 5 at the he'.Hl of navigat ion. ..-\ hurried b reakfast tog-Pthf'r wHs followt>d hy a lightning ehange of "duds" and throwing- together of dnnnage, and we. nccompanil'd b y )fr. Charlt-s D. Ellis of \Vindermere, a climb ing companion of last year. were JY1cked an<l off for Tob y Creek.

• A continuation of Mr. Harnden's "A New Mountain Count r)··· i n the Mountaineer of No,·ember, 1 910 .

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:12 Tlzc ,lf 0 1111 tai11ccr

We first Yisi t i>d the Paradise Basin, whenee we started the climb of Ila11n11oud last yen r. and where our Recording Angel, )frs. Emerson, performed the ratlwr re111,1rkahle celestial feat of coast ing- down into l'aradisP. Rut the :'..:orth Fork of Toh�· CrC'ek, somPwha t fc1 rt h0r on 1111d a hout eig-hteen miles from A t lwh111'r. tlw lwad of 1111 Yi1rntion 011 thP riYer. was the scene of our fir.st real work. "'t• int<>ndPd not only to c l imb , hut to size up tlw c•o11 1 1 try topographically and othC'rwise as well as t i 11 1e would 1wr111it. \Ye wPrt> our own guides, packers. cooks and dish-washers-no trouble> with the servant prob lem ! )[rs. Emerson, b C'sides actin!.! as RPcording Angel of the expedit ion , planned to do a li t t i <' b otanizi1 1g : :\J r. Enwrson, who is fill t>n­gineer, rarri <'d a l i!.!ht tni usit , a 1 1d we had i <'<' axes and ropt• and t lw bPst proeura hie 11 nnoids. Incidenta lly. b etter measnre­lll<'llt and ant>roiding- showed that our est imated alt i tudes of last yt>ar over-shot the 1 1 1ark : hut i t .st i ll ri> 1 11a ins true that the south<'rn H<0lkirks <'<f lWI the northern in ht>ight and surpass them i1 1 Alpine g-randPur .

..:\ ft>w minor tr11111ps and scramb les about Paradise Basin and our :'..:orth Fork earnp put us in fa irly good condition. \Ve had planned a seeond asC'ent of :\fount Hammond-first as­<'<'nded last year by )J r. Ellis-by a 1ww, and it spemed to me more interest ing. route. whieh I had then ohsnved as a possi ­hili ty. )Ir. Ell is was anxious to join us on this iweond ascC'nt, b ut was cHlh><.I frolll ra lllp by husin<'ss. and while awaiting his rl'turn the EnH'rsons and I JllH'kPd 011 our haeks our sleeping b ags and JH'OYisions for several days and m'ldc• a trip to tht> lwad of Xorth Fork. Tlw mag-n ificC'nt glaeit•r sepne lwre afforded from the high eastern slop1•s of tlw Fork, I referred to last year. A snrnlll it ahon• us. to the past. which S<'C'med to offer a mag-nifieeut Yiew-point. attractPd our attention. and this s11m11 1 it fnrnishnl us with a splendid d1:1y'.s el imb and a fir.st aseC'nt. The comhined snow gully and sharp rock arete work gave us a good try-out and t1•st of condit ion .

. Mount Catherine, as wt> named the peak, is from 10,000 to 10.::lOO f<'<'t i n lu.-.ig-ht. suhjeet to hiter calculations, b ears on its north face. ov<'rlooki11g- Bouldn CrePk, a spries of splendid. pr<'eipitous. hangin g- glaciers, and offers one of the finest Alpine panoramas imaginable. :'\ot far away, to the east. was )I t. Hammond, while to th<' wt>st. t in on t ier, rose the nuignificent praks of the main south<'rn Srlkirk range, with some of which

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Plate IX.

Photograph by p;dward \V. Harnden

ICE COl.l ' M NS ON TOBY GLACIER

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The ;l/ 01111tai11ccr 33

we were to hobnob-am} hobnail-latPr. As far as the e�·e could see, from south to north, 1 he landscape fairly bristled with the typical i:rlittering, crevassed i:rlacier fiehls and jagged sum mits of the Selkirks, which, while perlrnps not averaging quite as high as the neighboring Rockies, have much finer ice­fields ( excepting such northern ice-fields i n the Rockies as the Columbia and \V ashmawapta ) , due to greater precipitation, 11nd 11re more Alpine in character.

We returned to our lowt>r camp in g-ood shape for thi> :\fount Hammond elimb. Charli e had not returned, and we had to go without him. A short <fr,tance aho,·e our camp H«mmond Creek-so named b,v US-<'nters ;\'orth Fork from the north. The Emersons and I packt><l in an almost sl raight eourse up this creek, camping near the base of the west side of the moun­tain, prc>paratory to attempting the climb by a route which had seemed to me last year a pnrt icularly interesting one.

'fhe steep and direct rise up Hammond Crt,ek from our �orth Fork camp, with its elevation of II bout ·!aOO feet. to the b11se c11mp for our Hammond climb. at 6700 ft>et. afforded an unusually striking illustration of changes from temperate to sub-arctic conditions. The trePs rapidly dwindled to scrub, and the char11etpr of tlw tlowers, which were beautiful and profust>, changl•<l with ever;v few hundred fept of rise. There is no lost ground by this route. and i t makes II far more interest­ing c>limb, technically and from a scenic point. than thl' route of last year from Paradi.o;;e Basin.

From our cHmp. in a strip of woods ov<'rlooking from the left the snow gully at the he11d of II<immond Creek, we could dearly tignre out our probable route of the nl'xt day, when the bright promise of the t>vening was fulfilll'd. Ontlined IIJ?aiust the early mominJ? sky l ine. on July 14. to the northl'11st stood the steep rock and snow profile of '.\Io·.rnt I ram111ond. We knew that this arete that stood out against the sky looked down on the farther side vertically to Bonldc-r Creek, ttnd it was by this ra1.q.red Boulder Creek arete that we planned to ascend unl il we reached the bast ioned crown just below the summi t. A sharp rise of about two hours. saambling over broken rock slopes and up steep snow gullies, hroul!ht us to the arete. and c:irefnl climbinir up the unstable rock bridge, with its treml'ndous views into the yawning Bonldt>r Creek nbys'> at our ldt. finally brought us to thP erown. This is <�0111posed

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:3--l The ;\! 011 11 tai11ecr

of tremendous cub ical rock hastions. pierced b y oceasional gaps, where erosion of the rotten rock b y frost and glacial aetion has lrft rough, n1u·row, sharp V-slrnped chimneys. The first gap ha,1 s<'enwd irnpraeticab le to :\Ir. Ellis last. year, and at first so i 111prpssNl us : hut ther<' were three of us, we had a good rope, and, avoiding the snow-filled depression, into whieh b rokt•n rock }ws a h,1b it of falling, and taking to the side rocks at th<' h·ft. a half honr's del ieatp and careful work-in which our Record ing AngPl, a novice in Alpine work, showed splendid nen·<'-plaePd us 11t thr top of the b astion. whencP a short srn1 111b le b rought us to the top of the slrntt,•red rock cone whi1·h for111s lht> sum111it.

Our calculat ions this year dropped the s11 111111 i t to ab out 10,400 to 10,600 feet-sub ject to later refinement-an elevation, however, well up to that of the highest northern Selkirks : and th1° glorious view afforded of the Columb i a vall<'y to the east, with the Roekies rising b eyond, and of our neighb oring crest chain of S<'lkirks to the west, we can never forget.

Our Nortli Fork plans were now eonsummated, and our Il<'Xt b ase of operations was Earl fi rey Pass, at the head of the main Tob y Creek, as describ ed in last year's .Mountainrer. This is a pass leading over into the west Kootenay region, and was first crossed hy a )fr. \V ells, of Boston.

A day and a half's packi111,r from the Korth Fork camp landed us there ready for b usi,wss, camped in a little park re111iniseP11t of Rainier, surr01mded b y erythroninm and giant anemones. the dying gasp of the expiring ti111her still leaving, in addition to the Lyell's larclws. fir b alsam for b eds. Ab out

ns was one of the noblest panoramas eoneeivahle, snggestiYe, as I sa id last year, of the vi<'w from the Gomer Grat .

The sharp. high, apparent ly inaccessib le peak pictured in plate Ill last ,vear, lying south of tlH' Pass. had haunted my dreams during the winter. I knew tha t i t had three apparently impossib le sides. Thl' fourth, 1�,in1,r in h11ck, I had never seen, b ut I had fa ith that it wonld prove feasib le. So on the promis­ing- 111omi11g of ,July 18, we started out to eirenlllvent the moun­ta in and see whethrr I was correct. The party consisted of the Emersons, )Ir. Ellis, who had now rejoined us. and myself. \Ve drop1wd from the Pass, which is at a level of ab out 7400 fert , to the Tob y Gl11cier, which l ies at the head of Tob y Creek and is its source, and traveled the long gradually rising curve

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The Jlo1111 tai11ccr

of the glacier for several miks, starting in a southerly direr. l ion 1rnd grathrnlly swinging- to the west as we cut the arc of a circle around the peak. As we ronndt'd a sharp. kn ife-like rock shoul­der of the motmtain. that unknown sonth sic!<' came into view, and there Sl't'm<'d a rc>nsonn hie chance that the mountain was ours. Instead of precipiees where in places the snow and ice conk] harely mflinta in a foothold, we found the hollow on this side filled with a i;trep, w inding glacier tributary to the Tob y Glacirr, wi th neve and snow-field ahov<' and a rock ridge at the top. and nil apparen! l,v neg-otiab lc with proper prec1-111tion. There wn<' the usual problems of avoiding crl'vassc>s on the lower levels and looking out for rocks flb ove ; hut all went well. and one o'clock in the afternoon of n. spk•ndid day found us the first persons on the summit of jfonnt Gleason (named after ::\Tr. Hl'rb ert W. Gleason ) , one of the finest peaks of the south­ern Selki rks. We luncher! and enjoyed the curiously detached and tremendous st>nsntion afforded hy a vi t>w of a chnot ic iee nnd ro<�k world from a peak one side of which swept down thousands of fePt in a shl't>r precipice below 011r fP<'t. Our nneroiding placed the height at about 10,600 feet, and rough triangulation from Tohy Glacier, whert> WP sub st'(!lll'ntly ran a b nsc line, gave ll height of 10,800 fre t . The summit rock St'emed to b e l11 rg-1• ly gran itfo, which probably nccounts for the peak's reta ining its sharp, l\fatterhorn-like shape.

The running' of a bnse line on Toby Glaci<'r and a trip thro11g-h the ice columns of the ' 'Temple of Karnak,'' whic•h we threaded from <'nd to <'tHl, on sub sequent days, brought our Toby Cre<'k work to n close. and we then hied ours<'h·es to Hors<' Thit>f Creek. another Wl'st to <>flst trihntar�· of the Co­lumbia ri ver, lying to the north of Toby Cr<'<'k. )Tr. Ellis had to leave the pnrty ag,1 in , on account of business.

Horse Thief Creek, in its 45-mile length, heads up in another interesting part of the crest rang-e. Outfitting for the mountaineer and hunter is fncilitated by Thomas Starb ird's delightful l\lountain Vnlley Ranch, ab out thirtet>n miles up the creek from Wilmer. This creek, in its variety of scenic features -canyons, hoodoos, steep mountain side wnlls, unsurpnssc>d waterfnlls and its culminating magnificent Alpine scenery a t the head-far surpnsses even the b eautiful Tob y CrPek. (fonts fnirly run riot on the monntr1 ins ab out the valle�·, there is an

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The Jf 01111tai11ccr

occasional grizzly to make thing-s interesting, and at the ranch there arc saddle horses and delig-htfnl quarters and surround­ings for thP 1 1011-strenuous tourist.

To a camp �8 miles ab o,·e the ranch the Emersons and I packt>d hy horse : and from this camp we did some minor tramp­ing- and C' l imhing. exploring- what we called Goat Creek, a nor­thPl'll t rib utary of Horse Thi <>f. We b nck<'<l b rush up the west side of tlw ('ret>k 1md <'H ille down the mor<' open rocky eastern lrnnk, following the str<'am elosely and getting- s11p<>rb views at <'losp rang<' of mag-nificent falls. as the stre,1m tnrnb le<l in a cont in11011s serit•s of cascad<>s down the steep mountain side, having tlwir sonr<'P in a lnke of marvelous b eauty.

Ahon' this <·amp to t lw head of the cr<>ek and the foot of thP gTt'at Starhird < l la<' icr t lwre was 110 trail for hors<'s r<>ady, althong-h thP government has intert'stPd itself in the section and a horsP tra il was cut up to us lwfort> we canu• out : so. with the assist:i rie P of the trail-<'llttt'rs, we packed up on our b acks frn'. s. slt·Pping- lrngs and food for ab out tt>n days. \Ii[(' <'hos<>. in a tlat b ordt•ring- the main crePk and ab out two miles b elow tht• g-laci<>r. 1111 ideal eamping- site. A ddightfnl little n10ss.v hrook of t lw 1mrPst water ran lwfon• our tent.;; : at hand was a :xood supply of fir b alsams.

" The beds were made, the room was fit,

By punctual elle the stars were lit."

Baek of us a wild, jag-god. vertical c l iff up-reared ; acros" th(• vallPy thrl•e wonderful fal ls plung-ed down the mountain sidl' : and at t lw head of the crePk, in full v iew. was the iower stn•teh of the nob le•. curving 8tarb ird Glaeit•r, w ith its b ack­irround of snow 11nd ice pt>aks. don1inatt>d hy the great summit which Wt' hopPd to elilllb .

A rc(•o11 1rniss1rnec was. of conn,(\ first in order, and this we pl11 11 1 1t>d from a lll inor peak aeross the glacier to the north. So that we tH't'd not rPtraee our steps and the climb might not b e. too long- from our camp. tlw Emersons and I pla1111t•d a possib le three-days' expt>dition from camp, packing on our b acks sleep­ing- hag-s and prnvisio11s. dp,·oting- the first <la�· to reconnaissance and locat ing a has1• eamp, the second chy to the rl imb , with the possib ility of rt>tuming to the main Cl't'('k camp the second nig-ht. hut heing- prPpared to he out a third day.

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Plate X.

STARBIRD GLACIER AND PEAKS AT THE HEAD OF HORSE THIEF CREEK Photograph by G. D. Emen;on

The :\fo1111tai11ccr 3,

The recouna issance was suceessful and interesting. Our minor 9000-foot peak enabled us to look across at the summit we had in m ind and to lay out a lternative routes, and offpred glorious views of the snow and ice world about us. The Star­bird Glacier, which stretched its immens(• length in 11 horseshoe beneath ns, is perhaps twelve m i les long,, possibly the largt>st in thP 8elkirks. Ou every hand were immense ice fields, while hanging glaciers, due to the peculiarly precipitous nature of the rno1111ta in walls, abounded. From one such. over 1111 almost vertical mounta in precipice across Horse Thit>f Creek, we wit· nessetl with in ft>n minutes of each other two tremendous ava­lanches. the shattned ice streaming thousands of feet down the mountain side in cascades and finally debouching on to the great glac ier itself. 8ome goats also passed in revit>w at rea . sonahly close range.

:\faking camp at the nearest point to our pt>ak where wood st>emed avn ilahh>, we tumed in, prt>pnrt>d to cl imb tlw nt>xt tlay. \Ve started long before sunrise. the route upon which we had detPrmined lying over tlw surface of thl' glaein for st•veral m iles, swinging from south to west to the summit of II pas.� over into west Kooh>nay, then turninl? sharply to tlw lt•ft and fol­lowin g a long "switchback" glacier, which skirted our peak on tlw north side, to an ice and snow slope which, with broad cross crevasst•s and a final bergschrund, rose steeply and direct­ly to the rock-cnpped summit. An alternat ive rout<', if this should prove impracticable, i nvolved the a ttnck of a rock comb from a point near the pass and working along this comb to a h igh snow-fi<'ld. asna i ling the summit from the rear.

It soon hecame clear that the elements were against us. Heavy clonchi and m ist.� formed, and did not hrt>ak away with the rising sun. We crossed the pass and l?Ot some grand vit>ws of the lower \Vest Koott•nay mountains, but onr summit re­maill(•d obscured and weRther condit ions were threat(>ning. Finally, we were reluctantly obliged to give up the cl imb.

Fate had other knocks in store. Shortly after r(•turning to our main camp a telegram came up the l int> <'ail ing the Emersons home : Rnd one of the tra il-cutters, Ernest Raiford, a former Maine guide and woodsman, who joined us and w ished to participate in a second attempt on the mountain. had not been i n camp five minutes before he had cut h imself wt>ll into the ankle bone with an axp, :\[y comrades sadly depart('(l, say-

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:J8 The Jlo1111tai11ccr

i ng- that they would try to send up somebody who would like to cli mh the p«:'ak. while I waitl'd a w<•Pk i n camp. tHkiug- care of t lw 1 1 11l11cky <>hoppPr and hoping- ag1-1 inst hope. And it raine<l almost eontin1 1011sly in tlw valley-11nd snowed on the moun­tl-l ins !

At last. on ,\ ll !.!llst 10, t ht> Wt"1 l lwr cleared hPautifnlly, and the littlc angt>ls who prPsidl' o\'t>r tlw dl'stin iPs of suffi­cieutl�· pt•rsistent 111011ntainPPrs-1-1nd other 111ortals-s111 iled. Towar<ls HPn ing-. tlw jing-li ng- of lwlls told me that the horse tra il to onr camp ha<l been compldt:d, and Frank Butterfield, s11pt>ri11te11dpnt of tlw St:i rhird ranch. with ,Ja<'k Poorlllan . of Idaho. a trail-cuttt'r, a11d ) I itclwll Coffin. of Brooklyn , appeared on t lw seene.

Tiw hoodoo was hroken. Fivt• 0 '1•loek the next lllorn ing saw Coffin. Poorman, and mysplf WP I I on our way up tht> g-lacier. Butterfield being- unahle to join us because another trail-cutter had ht:'l'll iujnrPd and had to bl' takPn down into the nllt•y.

The fatt's nevt' l' g-ra11t1•d more ht•antifnl weather for Pli111b­i ng-altho11g-h I was afraid onr 1111uric thrt•e might be broken when tweln· g-oats gazt•d si 111ult11nt•ously down upon ll'> from a rwig-hboring- hillsidl• a n<l sang t})(> i r Lorelei song to Poorman, who was tPmptl'<l to g-o back and µ-ct hi:,; !!Un.

\VP 111anagPd to 11,·oid actually g-etting- into C l't'vassPs i n tlw g-la1· ier and swi t chha<'k. a lthoug-h occasio11ally a leg- would <lisappt>ar, and son 1 t• anchoring and hroad jumping- wa<; neces­snry : hut thP most study was r<•quirP<l on the final sharp rise to tlw su111 111 i t. ,\ wt•ek's ht>avy frC'sh snow covered tht> old ice and snow on the steep slope. incrt•asing the dnnger from avalaneht>s, a nd in ll<'g-otiating- the slope bad cross crevasses­''g-lory holes, ' ' as ,Jack ciilll'<l thPn1-had to be dealt with. For­tnnatt•ly, howen·r. the rww snow had avahnched almost from the top i n a narrow strip, and we zig-zag-g-ed in a11d close to this strip. made g-ood steps and lH'pt the' rope taut. Above us, too, slightly to the right as we rH•arPtl the top, was a projecting hummock which would prohahly ha,·e div ided an avalanche from above, and we could. if thrt•aten(•d. quickly line up below it and hrace. But nothing untoward oecurred. Even 'the final berg-s<'hrund, which we thong-ht mig-ht cause us some work and study, and which we \\'«:'re prPpart'd to go down into and up the other side. offPrl'd a splintPr of a hridge which bore us sa frly aeross : irn<l. surmounting tlw fi rm! 15 or 20-foot vertical

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The Mou11tai11ccr 39

snow wall with a straight frontal attack, digging in with fingers and toes, I found myself, nt 1 :30 o'clock p. rn., within twenty feet of the highest rocks on the peak. thus justifying our careful reconnaissance, for we had not actually seen the summit since long b efore leaving the main glacier. Up swarmed the others, and at a signal the highest rock felt its first touch of human feet simultaneously g-iven. Our sizing up had b een accurate e,·en ns to the t ime riee('Ssary for difft>rent parts of the climb , and we returned to camp shortly aft<>r 6 p. rn., as I had told the b oys we prob ,1 b ly would.

,ve intended to uame the peak. the elevation of which is ab out 10,:WO feet, :\I t. Thompson, aftl'r the early explorer, b ut I have since found that there is another :\lt. Thompson, so · n different na-me unl',t b e given. The vi('W was perhaps the most superb of the summl'r. The immense curve of the Starb ir<i Glacier, the striking contrast offered hy the snow and ice fields and rugged summ its of the "\V rst Kootenay rangt>s, with the deep, grern, in tervPn in g VA lley. and the tremt>ndous Alpine swe<'P along the crest of the main range to the south, to the head of Tob y Creek and b eyond, and to the Spillimncheen l\fountains in the. north, comb ined in a wonderful, glorious panorama.

All hail to Horse Thief and Tob y Creeks ! And there are other creeks as little known. leadini,r to 1mclimb c'<l summits of these, the nob lest of the Selkirks. Tlwre is an urgent call to the 111011 1 1taineer and hunter, and it will not long remain un­answered. Stevenson says : "'Ve are not content to pass 11 wa;v Pntirely from the scPnes of our delight : we wonld leave. if b nt in gratitude, a pillar and a legend.''

Vie have b u ilt onr cairns. and this is the story. And there, awaiting other explorers and cl imb ers, are

"the hills,

Flashing the morn abroad

From their iron crests, rvhich tool(

The rose of creation's darvn­

Themsel-ves the earliest booq,

On rvhose can,en �rags, deep-drarvn

Stands rvritten the rvill of God."

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40 T/zc JI 01111tai11cer

THE BEXEDICTION (H' THE MOUNTAINS

REv. FREOER1cK T. vVEBB

ThP treasured rnemory of twl'h·p years' residence 1war to I .he n•ry h<'art of tlw Ro<'ki<'S nnd nine years in da ily sight of the splendid CasciHles and the wild Ol�·mpics and the amazinf! ' ;;\[ou11 tai1 1 that was God", ,v i t h many a vacation hour spent in their s 11gi.restive and sere11e sol itudes, has convinced me that mounta ins havP a wry dist inct individuality. That i s a truism. But tlwy have more than this ; somethinl,! like a very lin• aud 11rnjestic 1wrsonality. It is scarcely a metaphor to say : we sit at their feet and lea rn, that we commune with them, that our !warts go out to them and that t lwy i:rive answer back to us.

Have yon not felt as if thl'se pine-clad, snow-garmented peaks were wrappini:r you in their i.rreat friendship ? You tlo not foe! that th<'y are standing aloof eoldly await ing your homage ; they tnke yon to themselves, into their grandeur. They impart thei r streni.rth : yon warm their loneliness ; and in the union of mountain and 11111 11 yon realize your onP11ess with the great universe itsl'lf, and arc in touch with the throb­bing soul of God.

I believl' the vt>ry presence of thl' mountains is a benedic­tion. And so is the mo11nta in's altitude. ,vhether he will or not, it lifts one np : first the eye, to scale its sides, and t hen the soul. All who love t he mountains or look upon them a re not actual mountain climlwrs. but the vision of them all moves to the skies, of necess i ty, under the mountain's leadership.

And their example ! Is not that, too, a lwned iction 1 All the secret of life is wi h them. How responsive they a re to the creative a gl'neies of nature. still at work. This is their submission to the d iscipline of life. The pink glow of snns{'t is the mountain's gratitude for the l ight of the passing day in which they have bathed. They stand immovable-as a brave man m ay, upon the i,rranite basis of his faith, while the heat nnd the storm and the slow erosion of the rocks are doing for

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The Af 01mtai11eer 41

their form what the storm nnd stress of experience are doing for the human soul ; mo11lding it into shape.

It is so firm and true,-thc mo11ntain, yet it is not ungra­c iously stoical. Its varied moods are the token of its sympathy with the changing processes which are b ringing i t to the per­fection of a more finished b eauty. And all the while it keeps up its m inistry, through the fertilizing streams, to the needs of the green and fr11itful valleys b elow and so to the people who dwell there.

' 'The Lord b less thee and keep thee ; the Lord make his face to shine upon thee and b less thee ; the Lord l ift up the light of His countenance upon thee and give thee peace.''

}[ay we not so read the b enediction of the mountains ?

Photograph by A. H. Denman AT Sl'NSET

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-1 2 The JI 01111tai11ccr

THE FCTURE OF THE RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

AsAHEL CuRTJS

The mo,t pn'ssing- Jll'<'d in mountain affa irs i n W ashington

nt the present t imt> i s tht> i 1 11 provl'mcnt 1rnd extens ion of the

roads of the �r t . lb in ier .\"at ional P�i rk . The mounta in is

nttrart i 1 1g wide attent ion and people are coming from afar to

v is i t it . If t!H'Y find t lw 11101111 ta in accessible they wi l l tl'll

their fril'nds ahout t heir trip 1111<l the 111011n 1 n in will receive

the best for111 of puhl ic i 1y . If, on the othn hand. they find

tlwre arl' no roads or only one fair mw, t hey will prob­

ably so sta te and by so doing d issuadP many from a visit.

�ow is the t i me to g-o at th is matter with all the v im tlrnt

e11n be shown. and the l\fountaineers should be the ones to

lead in th is work. 'l' IH'Y should prove tl1 11t they know what i s

needed in 11101 1ntain work i n the state and not le1ve this

i 11 1portant work for tlw en111n1Pre ia l bodi 1•s of the two c i t ies.

ThP work i, broader than t lw pur·posps of eommerc ia l bodies,

the park is a nat ional orw and not a Seattle, Tacoma, or even a

\Vash in1,rton ont•. Tht•rt•fore thl' work in hl'inl f of thf' park

should be nnt iornl . Tht> senators and represl,ntatives of

\Vashi ngton rn a;v work for a system of roa :ls, but t lwy m11st

have t he support of othrrs hrforP t lw nec1�ssary hi lls wi l l pass.

The clnh f.lhould or:,rnn ize a carnpail,!n of puhl ic ity, grt the

eastern mounta in r luhs to lwlp and Jun·(' them t11kp the matter

u p with t lwir senators and rPpresentnt iv,,s, u rg-iug the passage

of th is bi l l . Eleven thousand people passed through the park

Pntr11ncr last season. Tlw majority of thesP would be wi ll ing

to write to t lwir rt>prf'sentat ivc•s a t \Vash ington in favor of a

b i l l to improYe thr ro:Hk ThPy know t hat t h1'y m•rd impro,·e­

men t . President Taft was ahlP t o reach Parad ise Park, hut h e

learned .i nst what was twl·decl to make t h e road a success.

The first th ing that should be deeid(d upon is a plan of

af' t ion t hat can b(• followrd for years. and al l parts of the park

opened. Xo rno1H·,r can he appropria ted for roads unti l sun·r;\·s

are made. t lwn,forc• those surveys should be startnl the coming

summer.

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Plair XI.

Copyrigh t Asahel Curt is

Mt. Rainier from Indian H,·nry·,.. Hunt ing Ground south west ,:Id ... of the mountain . A sun·e�· ha>1 been madt> for 8 road Into th is park from the pn·,wnt road to Longmi re Springs. Thl,a road should ht' eonRt rueted as soon "" pos,< ihle to atrord a rel ief to the erowd!< now going t o Parad ise Park. Thli< road would also op.-n up Van Trump Park. wh leh lies be­twet>n ParadiS<e nnd Indian Henn· ·,..

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The Mo1111tai11ecr 43

There is need of a road on 1 he north side HS well HS the south side. This ean l?O from the present road a t or near Fairfax and rt•ach the icP of the Carb on Glaeier. From this point it can b e continued into both Spray and )loraine parks. Some road should he opened from the east to permit people to come in on that side and go out via the south. Th<.> important thing is to <lecidt' as soon as possib le where roHds are to b e construeted and tlwn see that a continuing <1ppropriation is made for such development.

Thne is no question b ut thHt the present road should he widened from ,\shford to Paradise Park sufficient to permit autos and stages to travt'I over it safely. The government b t'gan a stag-e road to the park and then allowed the use of autos. This has creat('(I a menace which the government is morally b ound to remove.

Right here in the mattt'r of roads is where the )fotm­t.ain<.>ers ean do a great good for the stat<' . Being a shte-wide organization t}H"Y can do mneh to remove the partisan spirit. If Seattle and Tacoma can he united upon a s,vsf em of roads for the Rainier N<1tional Park, the chance of getting the neces­sary appropriations from Congress will he increased many fold .

. As }oni:r as there is a feeling that the state is not united in I his matter Congrt>ss feels safe in passing up all appropriations.

A north road is certain to come and the )fountaineers should b e the first ones to b ack the movement for it. They are familiar with the region to b e opened, the scene of their 1909 outing, know of the b eautiful parks that will b e made acces­sib le tu tourists, and should do all in their power to aid in the work.

Superiuteudent Hal l has opened some of the old trails on the nortl, sid1! and b uilt some new ones. An application has b een made for a hotd permit in l\foraine Park. and also one in Sprny. It will b e only natural, when these hotels are open, for the tourist to wish to make the trip from one side to the other. This will , more than anything else, lead to the opening of trails, nnd Inter, roads around the mountain.

I realize thnt the true )lountaine<.>r would mueh rather see the mountains from the trail or the unexplored wilderness. b ut to make mountains at all popular, to get the majority of people into them, it is necc>ssary to have roads.

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Tlt c .II 0 11 11 tai11Nr

ALL N IGHT ON AN ACTIVF, VOLCANO

CHARLES ALBERTSON

Recent ncwsp•l J>l'l'S rl'JHirt a renewed activity of Asama Yama i11 rPntral ,Jnpan . Friends eonfirm thesr statP11 1euts and tell of the loss of human l i fo. A l l this brings clearly to m ind a trip brotlwr and I madr to this rnergPtic volcano-mounta in sornr years H J.!'O. It was in September, 1 901 , tlrnt we took stPa 11 1 1'r from rny h011w in KobP for Yokoh� ma. From tJ1pre m• t ravekd probably a hundred mi lPs by narrow gauge and raek rai lway to a l itt le vi l lagl• eal lt><:1 Kar11 izawa, on the watPr­shcd of the unique Island EmpirP. Asamft Yama is of volcani c origin. without l,.!'lac iprs. ,\'OllllJ.!'. and therefore shapely and attract iw•. It is gray-brown, of broad base, conical. and rises in i,rrac•t>ful c·nrws from a platPau to a height of 8280 feet.

One splencl i cl fresh morn ing we started from Kflruizawa at 8 ::m. Brotht>r 1,.!'0t away first whilP I was leng-thening the stirmp-straps. IJP had thrPe 111 1•n to h is j inrickisha, one in the shafts ir nd two pushing. 'fhpy sw11 1 11-!' out of the tiny mountain hamlet at a l ively pace and al l knew we were bound for Asama. After s ix mi lrs the roncl lwg-an to c l imb gra1lually and at e ight mi l e's we stoppPd at a c lPar, cool spring to fil l our water bottles, as we shoul<l find no watl'r heyond that point. We restPd here a l itt le and tlwn started on up the winding roadway over thP, rounded foothi l l s. In thf' cuts we could count three layns of scoria or pnmicP each 15 to 24 inches th ick with hlack earth betwl•en. Evidmtly t hey werp from three of A sama's erup­tions many CP11t nries apart. At 11 :30. ten m i les out, we left the road and turned in on the path which l ed to the foot of Ko-Asama. This means "Baby" Asama , and a pret ty little th ini:r it is. too. It i s an exact min iaturP of the volcano and rises a thousand fpet ahon the base of Asama. Ilere we had ' 't iffin " under a small p ine. Tht> j inrick isha could go no fur­ther, hut the pony d id go on np to the saddle between the hahy 11101111tain and its mothPr. We wrrf' now at 12 :30 p. m . at the hase proper o f the mountain and our real work had only

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The .\I 0 1111tamccr

b c>gnn. Owing- to the zig--zag-g-ing- of the trail we still had some two m iles to go to reach our goal. The route was marked hy stone cairns.

\Vhen ab out half way up to the top. which we were mmally wntching-. WP saw an nnt.'xpected eruption likP many we h·id SP('ll at long-t'r rang-e. It consisted of s111okc>, steam. and aslws, one-eighth of a mile in d iameter at tlw eratn month. projt.'f'ted ab out a mile nnd a half straig-ht up in the air. It went sky­ward, seemingly slowly, b nt in fact with g-reat speed. g-radually unfolding and spreading out until the top was much larg-er than the b ase upon which i t appeared to stand. As the vast gray­b rown volume asccnch•d, more of course took i ts place from the cratPr. therehy k('Pping the form of tlw enr-ri ... ing- shape. The whole mass litPrally b oilP(l and tried to unfold and unwind 11nd untwist l ike great brown clouds Pach trying- to g-et ont of the i 111mp11sity of i tself nnd yet always keeping- an approximate waterspout shap(', unab h• to R<'complish i ts st>parat iug purpos<'. Soon the winds b egan to drift it over until its syn111H•try was lost and it m ingled with tlw clouds distinguishab le only b y b eing a little darker in color. It had b een a wonderful sight and not soon to b e forgotten. In a few minutes we were treatl•d to a rain of fine, penc>trating, b i t ing ashes. After awhile we tnrned to the right and followed around the side of the mountain instead of climb ing d irt>ctly np. This was ea;;ier work, though more dangerous. for it took us across a very long steep slope with precarious footini?. At last this d iagonal trail b rought us out on a fairly level knoll ab out 1000 ft>t>t from the crater and 150 feet b elow it. ·,Ne r(•ached the top at 4 :00 o'clock. The climb was 4500 fpet.

When within 50 feet of the erater tlwre was a b ooming roar from directly undPr us like nnto tPn :\"iag-aras. \Vt' werP instantly enveloped in asht'S and a b lack snlphurou.s smoke m ixed with hot steam which had no rt>spt'ct for onr sense of smell any more than the ashes had for our eyl'.sight. At the s,1me t ime we distinctl�' heard rocks and stones dropping hack into the liqu id lava way down in the unearthly crater. They fell with great, thick-sounding, hPavy pu<ls as of immf'nse b od ies of ore dropping into molten i ron. The falling masses had an ugly, angry, spitt"ful sound as if sulky and mad at not having b een spit out of the seething- mass entirely. Tht're we were in the smells and smokes fresh from hc>ll and in semi-

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46 The Jfo11 11tai11ecr

darkness. Resoundiul( in onr <'IU's a wild, baffled, awful roar of rag-e frolll the very cntranee itself. llndPr our fi>et WP heard and ft>lt thP roeks as they went plung-ing- hack into the yellow ht•ated cauldron from which they had only hel'n partially ejected. It was all so utterly uncxpect ed, so sudden, without any warning-, that we lwartily wislwd ourselves Wl'll out of i t.

Photograph by Charles Albertson

Smoke. steam and gas('s erupt ing from A sama Yama. Column of vapors thr .. e-fourth,s of a m i l" abo\'P thP t•1·ater

The smoke elearPd away and onr tremulous nerves quieted down. Then the first thing- to do was to see where all the g-rew­some fun came from. so we made for the edg-e of the crater. The top for a very short distance aronnd the grPat, yawning-, circular hole is fnirly fl at and is one mass of rock;; and lava completely fillNl in with 11slws. It is thc>rl'fore very porous, hollow sounding-. and not wel1 b uilt to rl'Sist pressure. Standing on sueh matt,rial we lookl'd over into the uncertain pit. The sides were straight up and down and we drew b ack in horror. We had little faith in th<' u11stahle !(round we stood on. Far, far b elow we elearly heard the Devil's awful kettle boi ling, slow!,\' b oilini.r, b oiling rocks, b oiling the foundations of the •'lll'th, hoili11i.r the thing-s we considered inckstructib le. Our idt>as of the per111anency of thing-s chani.red. It was not a Y 1gorons b oiling-, hut i.raw• a <h•fini 1 P fl't>ling of power, slow

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The Afmmtailieer 4i

b ut awful power. Time was no ob ject. The result would b e accomplished just the same. Ko hurry, b ut forever and ever and ever b oiling. On no fickle sub stance like water did it waste its energ-y, b ut conct•ntrated its action on ponderous adaman­tine masses which took the power au<l heat of all the under­worlds to melt. The mighty cupola spit and sputtered in a dignified mamwr, knowing that it had unmeasured forces b e­hind it and that it was doing the irresistib le will of the Fire Gods. ,v e could not S<'<' the b ottom on account of the steam which rose continually from the unknown dC'pths. hut we did see down about 500 feet. The perpendicular rocks were such as we had never seen b efore-though we will prob ab ly sec them as long- as we live. so vivid was the i111prt>ssion. They were nauseating and infC'rnal, a yellowish, su lphur-g-reen, roasted and grilletl, b aked and fried and to11sted b y the intense, heat, and at some time had ht>en cooked and b oiled and par­b oiled in living red-hot lava. Everywhere we went we encoun­tered snlphurcttnl steam, awesome radiHting rock-crevasses, warm rocks and areas so hot as to b urn our shoes.

As we looked from the apex of the great cone, ·whole provinces in quiet g-randeur unfolded b efore our delighted eyes. To the nortlwast was the verdureless, white Shirane San, an extinct volcano, and Kantai San, which I had climb ed the ye:u· previous, shape))' and verdnr<·-clad. Korth, west, and south were great ranf?eS and peaks, while away in the far south the penless, graceful, magnificent Fuji appeared easily distinguisha hie, thonl?h over a full 100 miles distant. It towered 12,365 feet ab ove the ocean, which almost washed its b ase. I have climb ed it twice. In the east was the great :\fusashi plain stretching away to the mighty Pacific. Quiet rivers ran through it, villages and cities dotted it, clumps of straight, tall crypt omeria hid the inevitab le shrine, and dainty b amb oo groves showed themselves in favored places as islands in a sea of rich green, waving rice. Ab ove all the noise and strife of the world we felt the peacefulness of the f?reat silences and distances pervading ns.

We wandered all over the summit, filled our hearts with delight at the beautiful panorama lying in every direction, and wondered at the proofs of power continually b efore us. Thus talking. wondering, enjoying, investigating. we finally reached the rock-crevasse just at dusk where we had left our dunnage

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1 8 Tlic .ll 0 11 11 tai11rcr

two and onf'-ha lf hours lwforl'. \Ve W<'rt' hungry, V<'ry tired, th1· 1 •xeit l'1111•nt sP1· 11wd 0\"1'1', the sun goon<'. darkness hurried afl 1•r us. da111p misty 1·londs wrapped us, ehill -eold gripped ns. \\'<' wt•n• s1Hld1•11 ly alnll <' in thP ni 1,d1t upon a mountain top, far fro111 ho1111• and onr lwlovl'd world lwlow.

( 'ril's of piere i11g- tl'rror from the eoolies ma<le Ill<' look toward thP er 01 tr·r. \Vhnt I s11w transfixed me to the spot s1wllho1111d-sp1•1•<·hl l'ss-tl'l'l' i fiPd . Th<' sight was one of horror and awful JH>Wel'. 'l'lw g-reat cra h•r was violt>ntly vomit ing. Tl11• 111011ntai11 shook. From thP nt>th<'r worlds came flame, 111mky s111ok<•. and r<'d-hot <'Xploding rocks. 'l'he thing b urned i tsP!f into II IP. I ran s1•1• it yPt. The d11rk1w;;s. torn b y livid fla 1111·. tlwn madt' darkPr h�· th<' smok<'. the reports of the b urst­ing- rorks. thP 1•r1mehing- (·rashing of the rocks falling near us, tlw sol i>mn n wfnlr11•ss of the phi el'. the tmexpectl'dness, the astounding- ma11if1•stat ion of i 111n11•as11rahle hidden forces, and t lw intl'ns1• nnet·rtainty as to wlrnt was coming- 1wxt, all com­hined to root 111P fast. overeome with awe and fear. 'fhe yawn­ing ab yss g-rad 1i ,1lly stoppt•d i ts aetion and only an occasional sput t l'r in the gTPat yellow b otto111 of the eauldron gave evi­d lin('l' that it was not <'ntirl·ly de11d. Bnt onr peace was gone. Onr early dt>sire to be nearer was fully gratified-and more. \Ve wislwd Wl' wt•re well ont of it. Next morning we estimated that we had heen 800 feet from the edge of the great hole when the eruption took ph1ee. Rocks had fallen to within a few feet of where we stood. Some W<'ighl'd a quarter of a ton. We ,wre fortunat<'ly .inst far Pnough away to miss the rain of rocks-and no further.

\Vt> arrangt•d to sl<'l'P just as far away from the crater as ever we could get. It was in 11 long-, n arrow crevasse which eYiclently was at one t im(• a dt>Pp, painfnl. earthquake rent near the edge of tlw mo11ntai11 crest. 'J'he falling ashes had soothed the woun:1 to within a mirn 's height of the top. We were well sheltered b y an improvised carpet-tent from the driving damp wind without ttll(l the dull damp floor b eneath-b ut were not comfortab le in m ind. It was dark and dangerous outside and we could not Pscape from the mountain at night. Just b efore we slt>pt t herl' Wl're tremors and 11nother eruption, b ut this t ime of smoke only. 'fwiee i n the n ight I awoke to hear others and to wonder what next. We were under the edge of a soft, friab le rork whieh a falling rock could easily crush down on

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tg g_ cr

'<

Plate XIV.

ASAMA YAJIIA FROM KAR U I ZAWA TEN MILES AWAY

The M 01wtai11eer 49

us. "\Ve were on the top of a most uncertain volcano which behaved most strangely. I was full of a complexity of weird feelings m ingled with those of utter helplessness and danger. All the surroundings were dark and ft•arsomP-was it a wonder that we slept uneasily and heartily welcomed the thy ?

At five in the morning as the dumb, grey, grizzly dawn was finding itself out of the blackness in the east, we were awakened by another loud ('Xplosion and crawled out to see once again at close range the magnificent boiling smoke. The rocks this time fell back into the hot bed whence they came. We felt easier. for we expected to be off that place hefore the usual time for another. There was no sunrise for us and our scant breakfast was hastily eaten . Another look was ventured into the great pit of the Evil One, hut we could see nothing. as the steam from his breakfast of sulphur and lava rose in great volumes. The wind, too, stinging cold and keenly damp, wrapped tht• clouds in gray, chilly sh('ets about us, so that we were glad to make away from the haunted though enticing pinnacle downwards toward the earth whence we had com(', it seemed. long, long before. We made fast time getting off that volc1mo, for in an hour and a half we were at the base of Ko-Asama, mighty glad to be free from the mental tension of the n ight before. Then it was we spread our blankets in the gladsome sunshine, ate a bite, and stretched ourselves to sleep.

A half hour in the j inrickisha followed. Tht>n an hour on foot over a very ancient Java flow which was covned by a sparse vegetation. This brought us to an ice cave under a young lava hed only one hundred twpnty years old. The great, brown, cavernous mass rose abruptly before us and we scrambled. cl imlw<l. jumped. and did various goat antics to get up and out on the top. The sight we saw was wonderfully impressive, for 1 he hcd was at least five miles long and two m iles wide. The formation was jagged and ragged, caved and pitted, creviced and crannied. tossed and tumbled, browned and burnt, scarred and seared. restless and confused. It showed under us and all around us unmistakable proofs of a power that in i ts action must have been tremendously and stupen­dously magnificent. Some vast, awful, fearful. netherworld force stirred to wrath had poured its vial of hot, surging lava out over a beautiful world, leaving frarful dPstrnct ion in i ts path.

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;j() Tl,c Mo11 11tai11ecr

Even to this day there is no vegetation on the m iles of waste rock. The dust may fill a small crevice or two. The rain moistt,ns the seeds drop1wd thert>in b y the birds, but that is all. They are like the b iblical seeds that were dropped b y the wayside and brong-ht forth fruit-no fold. This clean, new, vegetationh'ss b ed. even though old b y our standards, impressed upon us a ch'ar 1wrception of the nge of the world and the long, slow processPs of time. The usual and unusual incidents of the trip. including our escape, ha<l enlarged our soul vision and mn<le us m<>ek.

\Ve left the lava b eds at two, were picked up b y the shaky jinrickisha at the lone tea house at three, had another drink out oi :vesterday's spring at four, and in the gathering dusk at 6 ::30 we swung into Karuizawa. pleased, weary, tired. And soon all those in the village whose tongues were Japanese knew that a pair of foreigners had spent the night on top and rt'turned safely from the feared and mighty volcano, Asama Yama.

AT C LOSJ•: OF' NJ(;HT ON VOLCANO

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The Jlo1111tai11ccr 51

WITH THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

The s ixth annual camp of the Can:Hlian Alpine Club was held at Sherb rooke :\Ieadows, B. C .. from July 26th to August 4th, 1911. The camp was five m iles from Hector, on the main l i ne of the Canadian Pacific railway, midway b etween Field and Laggan. It was in a beautiful vallt>,Y-mountains on both sides and above, with Sherbrooke Lake a mile lower down the valley and with Lefroy, Victoria, and Cathedral mountains i n sight across Lake Sherb rooke.

The club furnished tt>nts with good b ough hetls, sufficient to care for 125 at one t ime. Over 150 attended the camp during tlw nine days. There was a large dining tent capab le of seating about 80 at one t ime, located 1 1 1 idway hetwcen the men's and women's quarters. .A Chinl's<' cook aud two assist­ants cookt'd for the large party, and a maid cooked for the help and for any meals outside the regular hours. There were three maids and three b oys to wait on the table. Tea was served at 4 p. m. every afternoon for any ladies or others who cared to i ndulge. There were three Swiss guides i n attendance during the outing, lwsides a numb er of the older members of the club who acted as guides. The rope is l l'>ed much more than on the Coast mountains, the people being roped together i n parties of five or six as soon as the climbing b ecomes d ifficult. There is very much more rock work and much more difficult and danl?erous cl imb ing thnn in the Coast mountains. The ice-ax is much more popular than the alpenstock and is b etter for experience<l climbers, especially on rock cli 111hing. The main ob jl.'ct of the smunwr camp is to qualify or graduate mem­b ers. They hecome act ive members upon making one of the climb s decich .. d upon hy the climb ing committee. Mt. Daly, 10,382 feet. was the graduating climb this year. l\It. Ogden, 8,795 feet, was a n ice climb close to camp, and :\[t. Nill.'s, 9,742 feet, w11s another one not far away. Pope's Peak, 10,255 feet, 1:even mill's away, was to have bet•n a l?raduat ing climb , hut

•Official guest from �lountaln<>ers to Alpine Club of Canada.

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Tlzc Jfo11 11 tai11ccr

wns found to lw too diffieult. so 011ly a fpw had the pleasure of m•1king i t . Fi \'(' memb t'rs of the Alpine Club and the repre­s(•ntat in•s of the Appalachian, :\laza11 1a and :\lounbineer clubs were gin•n tlw t rip up Popes l 't>ak as a reward for their atte111pts to help the 1,rrad11at in1,r classes. Along with two Swiss gnidt>s t h is party 111ade the aset•nt the sa111e day that the :\fo111 1 ta int>Prs eliml>Ptl :\I t . Adams. There was some rock work that slwwPd the 1,r11 id1•s to 1,rood ndvantag-e, and also showed the nel'll of !ht• party lwini.r rop('(l to1,ret lwr. This climb was made from a t1•m1wrary <'ll lllp at Ross Lakt>, the only place that the

Phot ograph by P. M. McGregor

LAKE LOl ' I SE, PART OF VICTORIA GLACIER SHOWING THROUGH THE CLOl' DS

mosqui toes were b ad. \Ve spent one night there, b ut preferred to make the trip to the top and b ack to main camp the same day rather than spend another night there.

The annnal meeting took place m•xt day. There were 125 people in camp, a nnmb cr coming in for that occasion. Elec­t ions take plact> every two years and this was the year that they "stood," so it was principally reports that were sub m itted to the memb ers. The secretary's report showed that the club had a paid-np memb ership of 650, that the club received grants of money from the Dominion government, British Columb ia goYernm(•nt. A llwrta government. and the Canadian Pacific

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!'lair XV.

Photograph by P. M. McGregor

MT. BIDDLE AND GLACIER. LAKE McARTHUR, ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTil<"UL LITTLE LAKES IN THE ROCKIES

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The Mou11tai11ecr 53

railway, besides two Swiss guides free from the Canadian Pacific railway during camp. This money is Pxpended prin­cipally on opt•ning up and exploring new country. '.\Ir. Wheeler and the club guide bPing in the Yellowhead country al l s11111-mer. There is a club house at Banff that is ownd hy a joint stock company of members and leased to the cluh. Club nwm­b.Jrs receive from the Canadian Pacific rai lway a single fare round trip from auywhere in Canada for the annual outing. The meet ing took pJ.we around the campfire. Vic<'-pre,;ident Patterson had charg-e of the camp in the absence of '.\Ir. ·wheeler, president and director. Ile proved himself a very hard working 1n•11t le11 1an. met all rww arri\'als with a handshake, directed them to the annex to the dining tent i f it was outside the regular meal hours, told them where the secretary was to be found, and even eal led the early parties at 4 o'cloek in the morning- for breakfast. I do not think that he was out of camp for two hours during- the nine days. '.\Ir. Forde, ehai� nmn of the cl imb­ing eommittPe. was a very capable r.entleman, who with two others on his comm ittee gave al l members a chance to graduate. '.\Ir. Forde was out on a roJ ·e h imself PV<'ry day on the same mountain, and finally as his ewn reward he went over with two or three others to cl imb Po1,,es Pt,"lk, but the guides would not takP tlwm up as the snow was not safe, due to much rain. l\Iuch rain fell during U,e camp, but gPnera lly at night. Tents are more necessary tha1 1 in our Coast mountains.

There were 6:3 members graduat 1 ·d this year. The tents furnishP<l hy the club are round ones, s imilar to

the army tent, and eapable of accommodating about e ight per­sons per tent.

Active or associ ate members paid $2 a day-othPrs. includ­ing any who failed to graduate, paid :j::3 a day, so that any who came in for leisure around camp paid $1 a day more than thP cl imbers. One representative from any other mountain club is put on thP same standing as active members. A wry pleas­ant feature was the fact that members and visitors came from all over Amnica and Canada. There were about eight Appa­lachians, one :\lazarna, one American Alpine, and one l\foun­tnineer. 'J'hp Alpine Club members came from ni l over Canada and the eastern statPs.

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:;-1 The JI 01111 tai11ccr

The cnrnpfir<•s wt•re a p l t•,1.-;ant ft>atun•. with !I new eha i r­nian every p,·ening-. gprn•rally some well knO\\"n memb er or visitor.

I do not th ink t lwrP wc1·p as 111a11y flowers as in our moun­tains. nor as la rge tirnlwr in th<' val l t·�·s. and not as much snow on the mo11 11tains. Tin• prettiest lttk<>s and ri,·ers !Ind the most rugged monuta ins I hnvc Pvcr SP<'ll ar<' the 01ws in the vicinity of the A lpine Club <·amp.

THE OLY�I PIC XATIOXAL 1[0NC�IENT.

F1 >l\:n::,.;o K :\h:AN Y.

ThP :\Ionnta im•prs arP det•ply interest{'(} in t lw Olympie :'\a­tional :\[01111 11H•nt and thPy 11re j11stly proud of thl'i r sncress in worki11:: for its P l'Pation a 11d 111a i 11tPrn111cP. ·while p 01 rnestly en­thnsiastir they arC' b y no means C'cc·entric or foolish in their attitude. Tlu•y lrnve nrver favored tlw locking- np of ne<•ded resourcPs. Th<·�· strivl' to lead rathn th11n to hinder th(' ad­vntwe of rPal progress. It would he well to record here the steps b �· whic·h th<' :\lonumrnt was cretttc•d and tlwn discuss the pres('nt sitm1tion.

In tlH' Fifty-11 inth Congress c rno:;. 1907 ) ads WCI'(' passed to make provision for the erPetion of 111onnments to the memory of John P1111l ,Jo1ws and otlwr hnoes and orw other ,1c t (Chapter 3060. pa::e 2:_!;j ) was C'ntitled : "An Aet for the Pm-;ervation of American Antiqnitie.s." Its prov isions a re as follows :

"BP it enaeted b y the Henate and Honse of Representatives of thr llu it<'d States of America in Con::rrss ass!'mb led, That nny per.son \\·ho sha l l appropriat(', excavatr. in,jnre or di•stroy any historic or prPhistorie m01m111t>nt or ruin or monument. or any ob ject of antiqu ity, sit11ate<l on lands ownP<l or controlled b y thr Gon•rnmPnt of the I 'nited Stat(•s. without the permission of tlw Secretary of the Department of the Gowrnment having jurisdiction ovrr thr lands on which said antiqnities are situ­ntl•d, sha l l . upon eo11 Y iction. b r fined in a s11m of not more than fi\'(' hundred dol l n rs or hp imprisoned for a period of not more than ninety tla�·s, or sha ll suffer b oth fine and impri ;,onment. m the discrt•t ion of the court.

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!'la te .Y 1' l.

Photograph by R. D. G l isan

MT. HL'BER, 1 1 . 0 4 1 FT.-\VIW AXY PEAKS, 8,869 FT.

Plat,· X 1 ·11.

Photograph by P. M. McGregor

View from t he side of Mt. Daly showing Sherbrooke Meadows, the cam p Is behind the bluff and below. The mountains showing from left to right art> Victoria, 1 1 .

355 f t . . Ll'froy. 1 1 . � � 0 ft.. Cathed ral. 1 0. 4 5 4 ft.,

Ogden, 8, 7ll5

ft., and Sherbrnok<' J..ake In the centl'r.

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The Jfou 11tai11ccr ,j ;j

"Sec. 2. That the President of the United Statf's is hereb y authorized, in his discretion, to declare b y pub l ic proclamation historic landmarks, historic an<l pr('historic structures, and other ob jects of historic or scient ific interest that are situate() upon the lands ownP<l or controll l'd hy the ( loV('1"111J 1ent of the United States to b e national mo1m111ents, and may reserve as a part thereof parcels of land, the l imits of which in all cases shall b e confined to thl• smallest area compatihle with the proper care and management of the ob jects to b e protected ; Provided, That when such objects are situated upon a t ract covered b y a b ona fide unperfected claim or held in private ownership, the t ract, or so much thereof as may b e necessary for the proper care an<l manag-ement of the ob ject. may b e rel inquished to the Government, and the SPcretary of the Interior is hereb y author­ized to accept the relinquishment of such tracts in b ehalf of the Government of the United States.

"Sec. 3. That permits for the examination of ruins, the excavation of a rchaeological sites, and the gathering of ob jt-cts of antiquity upon the lands under their respective jurisdictions may b e granted b y the Secretari<'s of th<' Interior. Agriculture and War to institutions which they may deem properly qualified to conduct such examinat ion, excavation, or gathering. sub ject to such rules and regulations as they may prescrib e ; Provided, That the examinations, excavations nnd gatherings a re under­tnken for the b enefit of reputab le museums, universities, col­leges, or other recognized scientific or Pducational institutions, with a view to increasing the knowledge of snch ob jects, and that the gatherings shall b e m ade for permanent preservation in pub lic museums.

"Sec. 4. That the Secretaries of the Departments aforesa id shall make and pub l ish from t ime to t ime uniform rules and regulations for the purpose of carrying ont the provisions of this Act."

There are many parts of the United States where the pro­v isions of that act would seem more appropriate than would the wilderness of the Olympic Mountains. For example, i t would furnish exactly appropriate protection for the cliff dwell­ings and other Indian relics in the Southwest. Without real­izing the availab il ity of tha t law for the desired protection of the Olympic l\Iountains, the )lountaineers made their first move,

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5U The Mo1111tai11eer

as indit'ated. by the following letter written by George E. Wright to CongT<'ss11rn11 Will E . Humphrey under date of 9 Febrnary. 1909 :

" 'I au1 about to IPrHl 111y support to the movement to create some kind of a National Park out of the ma i n body of the Olympie )lon11t11 ins.

" 'With a v iew to prepariug some kind of a proposed bill to be introduced i n Cougrpss. I h1n·c just looked up the Act which yon introduced for the establishment of a game preserve and I han rt·1Hl w ith considerable interest the proceedings in the House of Representatiws as thPy appear in Congressional Record.

"What ,n• had in mind was. in the .Act itself, to designate tlw lim its of the resrrve. This proposit ion we are going over ca ,·efnlly with some of the :\lntmtainecrs, who are very familiar with the ground, an<.l we propose also to go over it earefnlly with the men owning large bodies of timber-although thus far we h11 Ye not found tlwm interested-for we do not proposP. to go down into the valtrnble tirnbrr. We can e :1s ily create a Park h11ving- 11rea of hetwe<'n six hundred and one thousand square m iles without approaching the houndari<'s of the present forest r1'sen·e and without approaching 111erehantable timber, unless possibly some very small quantities wlwre the l ine of the Park will cut across narrow valleys.

"The ma in 111nuntain ridges will upon 111 1 ,ides run outside of the artifieial boundariPs which we shall snggt-st. For this reason it 11111�· lw desirable i n addition to creating artificial lim i ts. to give power to tlw PrPsident b.v proch1 1nation, to make to a limited cxtrnt, some fntnre Pnlnrg_l'111e11t of these limits, a� the topogr11phy of tlw ground may reqnirr .

. . ,V iii you k i 1 1dly a(h· isP lilt' upon the following point.-, : • 1 . Would you likl' us to draft and submit to you, a pro­

posed Act of Congress ; or ,yon Id yon prefer to draw it your­self '!

2. Will you g-ive your approval to the idea of provisionally defining. in the Aet i tself, the lim its of the reserve ?

3. Will it be best to have thi ;, Park created as a game pres<>rY<'. or simply as a pla i11 :'\ationnl Park.

4. Is i t desirable in add ition to establishing in the first instanr<'. the bounds of the reserve. to give to the Presidl'nt the power to enlarge these bonnds ?

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Th e Jf 01111 tai11ccr 57

5. Whnt other sug-g<'stions have you to offer ? "'Vii i yon kindly hnvp sent to us, 01w of the lll'lps which,

as a SC'parate fold<'r, accompnnies the r<'port upon the Olympic Forest Re.serve ? This map I desire to return to you with the proposed b oundari<'s of the reserve indicnted upon it.

"I am Sl'tHlini,r you, u11der S<'parate cover, a panon1 111ie photo­grnph, which conveys a very good idea of the general char­acter of the country proposed to b e set apart as a reserve. The rndorsement upon the b ack of this photograph is self-explana­f l)J'y."

The photograph referred to was the excellent picture of tlw rangi> 1 1 1 ttd(• b y Asalwl Curtis, who was activ1•ly engaged with ::\Ir. ''fright in this enterprise. When Congressman Humphrey received that lettc>r and the accompanying plioto­grnph he laid b oth b efore President Roosewlt, who at once turned to the law for �ational �Ionu111ents for authority, and under date of 2 )larch, 1909, iss1wd the followi11g proclama­tion :

"WHERE.AS, The slopes of ::\fount Olympus and the ad­jacent summits of the Olympic )fountains, in the State of Washington, within the Olympic National Forest. emb race cer­tain ob jects of unusual scientific interC'st, including numerous glaciers. and the region which from time immemorial has form<'d the summ<'r range and b reeding grounds of the Olympic Elk (Cervus Roosevelti) , a species peculiar to these mountains and rnpidly decrC'asing in numb ers ;

":\'ow. Tht'reforP. I , 'l'lwodore Roosc>vt>lt, Pn,sidt'nt of the l 'nit<'d Statc>s of America, b y virtue of the power in me ,·ested b y sC'etion two of the Aet of Congress, approved June eighth, ninete<'n hundred and six, entitled, ' 'An Act for the preserva­tion of American antiquiti('s," do proclaim that there are here­b y reserved from all forms of appropriation under the pub lic land laws, sub ject to all prior valid adverse claims. and set apart as a Xational ::\fonurnent, all the tracts of land, in the counties of Jefferson, Clallnm, )Jason and Chehalis, in the State of ,vashington, shown as the :\fount Olympus Xational ::\forrn­ment on the diagram forming a part hereof, and more partic­ularly located and d<'scrib ed as follows, to-wit :

• • • • • "The rt'snvation made b �· this pro<>hunation is not intended

to prewnt th<' use of the lands for forest purposes under the

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The Jfo1111tai11ccr

proela 111atio11s pstab lishing the Ol�·mpic Xational Forest, b ut thP· two rPsPrvations shall b oth b e effrctivt• on the land with­druwn. hut the Xational }lonunwnt hen•b y estab lished shall b e t l11• dominant n•st>rvation 1111d any USP of the land which inter­feres with its presnvation or prott>ction as a ;\'ational l\lon­umrnt is lwrehy forb idden. \Varning is lwreb y given to all unauthorizl•d 1wrsons not to approprint<•, injnrr, remove. or de­stroy any fPatun• of this �ational )Iouument. or to locate or scttlP upon any of the lands n•st•rved b y this proclamation.

" I :-.: Wl 'l':-.: Es8 WHEHEOF'. I have hereunto set m�· hand and raused the seal of the l'nitd Stafrs to b e affixed.

" Do1u• at th1• City of \Va-:hinl,!ton this st>t•ond day of :\larch. in the y1•ar of our Lord one thous11rnl nine hundred and n ine. and of the lndPpen<lence of the l'nited States the one hundred and thirty-third.

TIIEODORE ROOSEVELT."

This 1 11l't with l,!l'neral Hpplause throughout the Xorthwest and the }lountainePrs felt sPcurc in the fruits of their lab ors in that direction until tlwre arose complHints that prospectors and miners were hindered in their efforts to secure the min­eral wealth supposed to exist within the }fonnment. This ob ­jection was promptly met in a chariieteristic way b y the l\Ioun­tHinePrs.

When WaltPr L. Fisher. Secretary of the Interior, visited the �orthwt>st lw sought information ab out the Olympic �a­tional }IonumPnt as he did ab out othn matters within his jur­isdiction. Asalwl Curtis 1rnd Oem·l,!e E. Wright wPre Hsked to serve as a committee of the }founta incers to present the facts to Rt•eretary Fislwr. The club wislwd to advocate every rea­sonab le wish of the miners. A conference was held b y repre­sentatives of the various commercial b odies and organizations interested and it was amicab ly agrP<'d to work together to pro­cure the following- general ob jects : To change the Olympic National }fonument into the Olympic National Park ; to have the Vnih•rl RtatPs Gl'ological Survey make a careful survey of the park as to its mineral resources ; to permit mining and prospecting under propt•r regulation-; within the pHrk ; to ad­just the b oundaries so as to include the summits of the moun­tains and as littl P as possib le of lHnds useful for agriculture or forPst ry.

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Plate XXIII.

Photograph by H. A. Fuller

J\fOl'NTA INEERS IN THE GOAT ROCKS

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The 1'101111 tai11eer 59

Surprise and gratitude were expressed b y the others inter­ested that the l\Iountaineers took such lib eral ground on ques­tions naturally dear to them. Such has always b een the at­t itude of the )[ountaineers. They want to save generous play­grounds for the whole people. The time is already upon us when such attractive parks are appreciated. As the population and tourist travel increase so will increase the intrinsic value of such parks. Anyone at all familiar with the conditions in Switzerland, Califomia, the Yellowstone Park and elsewhere know that the whole Puget Sound country is destined to b e­come an allnrin� place for travelers and that such visitations help t>normously to develop and emb ellish the region visited.

There are now thousirnds of people in various parts of this Repub lic who have enjoyed visits to the i\Iount Rainier Ka­tional Park. They would reb el vigorom,ly against any attempt to harm that wonderful b eauty spot of earth. As methods of approach are improved there will arise other thousands who will he equally loyal to the Olympic �ational Park.

The Mountaineers wish to help in every way possib le to b uild trails and roads into these parks and to safeguard the b eauties of nature there for the free enjoyment of all the peo­ple.

Photograph by R. J. Hagman

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Plate XII.

Copyrigh t A><ah,·l Curtis

On the road to Mt. Rn l n ler. Thi>< ,show,. R portion of t h e road t hat t h e <itH't•rnnH•nt huH just t'nn1 pl t·t�cl tu l imht>r· l i n e on thP sout ht·rn :,;:f c le of the mc1 1 1 11 l n l n . I t haH 1·o><t $ � 40.0110 to complde thl" �5 ml l ,•H of rnad­wny nntl u la rge appropriat ion should be made to wldt•n nnd ln1pro\'e i t .

l'/,11,· Xlff.

Copyright A1mhel Curll�

Sprn)· Park on the northweHt Ride of th,• mountain. This vast pnrk Is now reached only by a poor syHlem of trails a nd t h l R region Rhould be opened a� q u ickly as pcn��lblt·. No road work C'nn ht• done unt i l Rllf\'PYS an.) mac.le and ttH·refore it beeomes necessary to deelde upon the system of roadR for t ht> whole rmrk and l lwn work out th,·><e ddails. I n t h is way a comph•te road system wil l be po><sible.

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�: ;;; co 0.

S!

Plate XVIII.

Photograph by H. B. Hinman

Some very Ruccesstul outings hnve been planned by the Everett Mountaineers. The picture shows them on n snowfield below the summit of M t. Pllchuck.

Plate XIX.

Photograph by W i l liam H. Gorham

THE MOUNTAINEERS BEG INNING THE ASCENT OF MT. ADAMS

Pla te XXII.

MT. HOOD, 11 , 2 2 5 FT. Photograph by Mabel Furry

/'lat,· XX.

ABOVE KLICKITAT M F:ADOWS Photograph by R J. Hagman

/'late XX/.

HAND OF SHEEP N EA R CISPLTS PASS, ELEVATION 6.000 FT. l'hotoi;rnµh t,y <.'ha rl,·s AIIJertson

l'lc.tc XX/ I · .

Photograph by H. V. Abel

SNOW CORNICE A ROVE KLICKITAT G LACIER, l\lT . .-\ DAJ\IS

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Plat,· II .

. , ....

Photograph l)y A . H. Denman

WI-I TTF: BARK PINE ( PIN'l'S CONTORTA )

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Plate XX/ "//.

Photograph by A. H. Denman

IN THE RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

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Th e M o u ntainee r Vol u m e Fo u r

Notes of Other Clubs

Other Notes

Correspondence

etc.

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fiO The Mo1111tainccr

NOTES OF OTHER CLUBS. The Mazamas, about forty In number, left Port·

Glacier Peak Outing land the morning of August 2d, 1911. for Seattle, of the Mazama Club and on to \Venatchee that night, taking the steamboat uo the Columbia the next day to Chelan Falls : staged uo to Lakeside, and from there a small steamer took them up Lake Chelan to Stehekin, at the upper end of the lake, arriving that even· Ing, August 3d.

They left the next day, proceeding to Bullion, ten miles up the Stehekln river, where they camped over night at the fork of Bridge Creek and Agnes Creek trail, near the ranger's cabin. The next day they walked over the trail, up the south fork of Agnes Creek. to a cabin several m!les below Cloudy and Sulattle passes. The day fol· lowing they kept on over Sulattle Pass, down the canyon, to the ford below Glacier .\l ine, and over the two divides to Buck Creek Pass. where the main camp was established at the same place the Moun­taineers had chosen the year previous.

The weather going in was cloudy and threatening, with fog and occasional showers, but cleared the second day after making the main camp.

The writer came into camp several days late, having come down from the outing of the Al1>ine Club of Canada, where he represented the l\lazamas, and met P. M. l\lcGregor, representing the .\loun­taineers. who will confirm the statement that the Canadian Rockies is a most alluring place for mountain enthusiasts to visit.

I arrived in camo August 1 1th, the day the Mazamas made their official climb. Thev had left camo the day 1>revious. following the Mountaineers' trail over Little and Big Sulattle, across Chocolate Creek. and up the ridge above Chocolate Glacier. making cam p a few hundred yards below the site selected by the l\lountalneers. After a successful climb on August 1 1 th. all making the summit. tour of the party returned to the main camo the same day, the others staying over night at the upoer camo and returning leisurely the next day.

The next morning a party of six, two ladies and four men. with sleeping bags and provisions. started on a knapsack trip for Glacier Peak. taking the route the main party had taken. and reaching their camp site about three o'clock. \Ve were just below the ridge rising from Chocolate Glacier In a small mountain meadow near the snow line looking out over a deep canyon with an extensive view of the ranges beyond which we enjoyed to the utmost. I have ascended over twenty snow peaks. but have never seen such perfect cloud panorama t1s we exoerienced climbing Glacier Peak. We rose at three o'clock. started at 4 : 30, followed the ridge through such heavy fog as to make us sneculate if we could follow the back trail should we be obliged to turn back. Soon we noticed the fog was growing lighter, and sud-

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The M ou 11tai11ccr (il

denly we came out above the fog, and what had been a cold, cheerless fog proved a sea of wonderful bi1lowy clouds, with peaks rising like small islands from an angry tempest-swept sea, the clouds rolling up to where we stood, threatening to sweep us off our feet, the rising sun tinting the crest of the blllows a delicate crimson. Coming as it did after the gloom and chi ll we had just oassed tbrouii:h. the con· trast was overpowering. All the way up, over the glacier, we re­peatedly looked back. From the summit we could easily make out Baker, Rainier, St. Helens and other peaks above the clouds, and the latter breaking, we could look down into the canyons and timbered valleys far below. We made the summit at 9 : 10, stayed an hour. and descended to main camo at 1 1 : iiO. and after a brief rest and lunch, took the back trail, arriving at Buck Creek camp about seven that evening. I mention the time, as it may be of Interest to the :Moun­taineers, who oreceded us the vear orevlous, and greatly helped us by the trails the�· had blazed to G lacier Peak.

The l\lazamas broke main camp the next morning, August 16th, and camped that evening below Cloudy Pass, stayed over an extra dav to give all an opportunity to visit Lyman Lake and Glacier, and then retraced their wav down Agnes Creek, stooping at Bullion over night, and reaching Stehekln at noon the next day, August 20th.

The .\l azamas left that afternoon for Lakeside, caught the steam· boat at Chelan Falls next morning, the train at \Venatchee that after­noon, and were back in Portland Monday morning, August 2 1st.

R. L. GLISAN The Appalachians spent about two weeks during this summer among the summits and trails of Appalachian Camp

at Whiteface the Sandwich range, just north of Lake Wlnnipe· saukEe. There were about thirty members In the party and nearly twenty made the climb of Whiteface and Passaconaway, about 4,000 feet high. The club maintains a small shelter at the foot of the cone of the mountain In which as many s(}ent the night as the size of the shelter would permit. Fourteen of the party climbed Sandwich dome, which made a good half day climb. The program for the last week included a climb to Chocorua, a day at Bear Camp Pond and an overnight temporary camp at Black Moun­tain Pond, high up under the south knob of the mountain. The char­acter of eastern mountain cllmbing as compared to climbing here­abouts ii; well Indicated by the following reference to the path being marked by a i;ign : "Any who think of tramping in to Flat Mountain Pond from Whiteface should Inquire the way, since the wood road leading to the path is not marked with a sign.'· The Appalachians maintain a number of huts and camos about the White .\fountains for the use of whoever mav pass.

The 191 1 outing of the Sierra Club was held In Activitiea olthe Sierra the Yosemite ::-.ational Park. A preliminary camp Club During 191 l was �stabllshed In Yosemite Val ley for the two weeks preceding the main outing. The unusually high water In the streams made a wonderful spectacle of the fal ls this year and the

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valley was crowded with visitors. On July ith the main outing party left San Francisco, rea<'hing Yosemite Valley the next day. The morning of the 10th the Yosemite camp was struck and the start made for the high country. One hundred and eighty-five members were on the outing list, and with the add ition of cooks, packus, and as­sistants the oarty numbered over two hundred persons.

The first camp was made in Little Yosemite, and the seC'ond at Lake '.\ lerced, where two davs were devoted to the exploration of the upper MerC'ed Basin and the climb of l\l t. Clark ( l t ,fi06 ) . Thence the party traveled across Vogelsang Pass and down Raff'erty Creek to the Tuolumne '.\leadows, a most beautiful and spacious mountain garden soot about 9,000 feet In elevation, whlrh is the finest camping ground in the Sierra and so located that an almost unlimited number of trips may be taken from It. Ascent s of Dana ( 13,050 ) , Lyell { 1 3,090) , Rit­ter ( 1 3 .H,6) and Conness ( 1 2.5a6 ) , trips to Tioga Lake for fishing or down the Bloody Canyon to the volcanic regions about Mono Lake, fishing parties up and down the Tuolumne River, picnics on Lam­bnt ·s Dome. er swimming in r:og Lake fil led to overflowine; the five days that were spen t there. A two days' camp at the mouth of Con­ness Creek gave an opportunity to visit the more wonderful falls near the head of the Tuolumne Canvon before setting out on the trip that was the main frature of this outing-the cir<'uit of the northern porticn cf the 1>ark. For more than a week cam1> was shifted nearly every day. Mat .terhnrn, K0rrlck , Stubblefield and Tilden canyons, Rogers, Benson ar:cl Tilden lakes v,ere visited. Piute Mt. and Ranch­erla M t. , ;\lattnhorn an:! Tower Peak were climbed and then the party Journeyed to Hetch Hetchy, remaining there for three days be­fore taking the homeward trail via Crockers and the Merced and Tuolumne groves of sequoias to El Portal. No accidents marred the trio and the only incom·enienC'e sufferPd was from one or two heavy thundershowers whose wonderful cloud scenery more than C'ompen­sated for the temporary disC'omfort.

The Le Conte l\lemorial LodJ?:P onened as usual on May 1 5th and was maintained for three months as the club·s Yosemite Valley head­quarters. Several valuable additions have been made to the library and eQuioment of the LodJ?;e and the fact that more than a,000 people visited it last summer shows that it is gaining an Important nlace for itself In the valley. A herbarium was Installed this summer and a comnlet.e C'OIIPction of YoEemite wildflowns will be secured as soon as possible. :\l aps and photographs of the H igh Sierra are on dis­play there and information regarding trails and camping places freely given. As Interest in the more unfrequented portions of the Yosemite National Park is increasing each year the Lodge's usefulness Is only i n its beginning.

The weekly local walks in the vkinity of San Francisco continue to hold their popularity and a similar mo,·ement has been started in Southern California. The average attendance i n the Bay region Is about fifty, rileasant days often call ing out as many as eighty or ninet y. A feature that grows In favor is the over-night trip, taken

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to embrace all holidays falling on a Saturday or :iionday, and also a Saturday afternoon and Sunday trip each month when the moon is near the full. Some of the points thus visited have been :\It. Dlablo, l\H. St. Helena, the Big Basin ( Santa Cruz I\Hs. ) , the Redwood Grove of the Bohemian Club and the Armstrong Big Tree Grove along the Russian River, Duxbury Reef at Bolinas, Inverness ( on Tomales Bay ) , Bear Valley, L a Honda and Potrero Meadows. Some of these have been taken as pure knapsack trips, In others the over-night stop has been made at a hotel, and on still others some of the party have knap· sacked while others have remained at a hotel. Though hardly to be classed among the "local" exC'ursions one of the activities planned by the Local Walks Committee was a mid-winter trip to Yosemite Valley, which gave about twenty dwellers in the Bay region the novel experience of ice skating, skeelng, coasting and snow balling.

Swiss Alpine Club

I\IARION RANDALL PARSO:'\S

There is plenty of good work going on In Switz· erland in the way of true alpinlsm. A Zurlchose mountaineer, ::\!. Triek, of the Uto section of the

Swiss Alpine Club, ascended on July 30, for the first time this year. the difficult and dangerous pass of Crast'Aguzza. between the :\!or· terasch Glacier and the upper Scerscen G lacier, in the Bernina group. The section Diablerets early In August made Its regular excursion to the Grisons, cllmbi:ig In considerable numbers Piz Segnes, near Films ( 10, 1 74 feet) and Sardona, about fifty feet lower.

The Dlablerets section has been In evidence against this season, this time at Zermatt, where, on August 7, ten members, having for guests two of the Montreux sect.Ion, climbed the Matterhorn with· out a guide. It was a gala day for the grim old mountain, for not less than thirty-two persons were on its summit, and at the hut It was necessary · for half of the company to sleep out of doors. It was stormy In the night, but no one was the worse.

The convention of mountain climbing clubs called by the Hono· lulu Trail and i\l ountain Club was held In Honolulu during the week from February 22d to February 28th. 191 l. The meetings were very Informal In their nature. The desirability of some joint action bJ· the clubs on the Coast giving a member of one club temporary rlghrn and priv!IPges of their clubs whfm visi t ing the other places was dis· cussed and It was the sense of the meeting that such courtesy should ce extended as far as oosslble.

The Pan Pacific Congress held a convention at the same time and place and they have under consideration the establishing of per­manent headquarters in some state In the United States, possibly New York, and the suggestion was made to the mountain climbing clubs to have desk room there where any one Interested could se· cure information regarding the work done. trips taken and contem· plated, and could read the magazines and bulletins which would be flied.

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PERMANENT FUND. Article XI of our new constitution pro-1·iJes that "all membership dues, Initiation fees and gifts, unless oth· erwise stipulated by the donor, together with such amounts from the organization funds as the board may direct . shal l constitute a per­manent fund. This shall be safely and separately Invested and the income only used." The nucleus of the new fund is $33.00, now draw­ing interest.

�I Ol'NTAI:-.EERS AND BOY SCOUTS. )lajor E. S. Ingraham, veteran mountaineer and Scout Commli,sioner of the Boy Scouts of America In Seattle, asks the co-ooeration of the )lountaineers in his work in the latter organization, and no movement of reeent years is more worthv of our encouragement .

The three-fold a im of the Scouts i s , strengthening the body, train­ing the mind, and bullrl ing up the character, and is based upon the practical idea of leading a boy to be thorough, honorable, and alert In his nlay and to be thoughtful of others. I t shows him how to gain ski l l in play by learning many useful things. It relies on the psychol­ogical fact that the bm·. with his Irresistible curiosity, turns in fun to inquire into many things that have a practical and educational value.

The boys by be<·oming Scouts have an opportunity to learn wood­craft, gain knowledge of birds and t rees, learn the secrets of the woods. to swim. paddle a canoe. and rlo many other things boys lo\·e to do. At al l times they have over them a Scout Master, whose cre­dentials have been approver! . and who is really t heir physical. mental , and character t rainer. He watches over them and guides them In their play and their various aetlvlties, trains them in alertness, self­reliance, and otl:er Scout virtues. H is aim is 1.0 turn out useful , self­reliant, alert, honest citizens.

The Scout "oath" or promise says : "On my honor I will do my best-1 . To do my duty to God and my country, and to obey the Scout Law ; 2. To help other people at all times ; a To keep myself physically strong, mentally awake, and morally straight."

The Scout Law has twelve planks, and If a boy obeys them be will be an excellent Scout. The points are : I . A Scout is trustworthy. 7. A Scout ts obedient. 2. A Scout Is loyal. 8. A Scout is cheerful. 3. A Scout is helpful. 9. A Scout is thrifty. t. A Scout is friendly. 1 0. A Scout Is brave. 5. A Scout is courteous. 1 1. A Scout ts clean. Ii. A Scout is kind. 12. A Scout Is reverent.

Major Ingraham's greatest need just now Is for men to look after the patrols. Mr . . Jack :'l lorrlll, a )lountaineer, has become an enthu-

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siastlc Scout :\laster and other volunteers for like services are de­sired. Surely there Is a great work for the Mountaineers In co-operat­ing In the splendid work of making good citizens, and training good material for future Mountaineers. -

The Research Commit tee of the 1'.atlonal Geographic Society has made an appropriation of $5,000 from the research fund to continue the studies of the Alaska glaciers which were conducted by the so­ciety i n 1909 and 1910. The work this year was In charge of Prof. Ralph S. Tarr of Cornell University and Prof. Lawrence Martin of the t:nlversity of Wisconsin. -

While :\It . McKinley is the highest peak In North America It ls also remarkable In having the longest snow and Ice slope of any of the world's great mountains. This mountain demands about 1 8 ,000 to 19,000 feet of snow and Ice work, while .:\lount Everest, the world's h ighest peak, has a perpetual snow line of between 17 ,000 and 18,000 feet, leaving only 1 1 ,000 to 1 2,000 feet of snow. The Parker-Browne expedition to .\fount J\l cKin!ey spent fifty nights continuously on snow and ice, and experienced difficulties as great in attaining an elevation of 1 0,300 feet as any to be encountered in reaching an altitude of 20,000 feet In the Himalayas. -

The Sierra Club of California has recently accomplished Important work In the planting of trout in fishless lakes and streams. The club took up this work several years ago, co-operat ing with the California Fish and Game Commission. In a few years the regions planted will become a veritable "fisherman's paradise". A large sum was appro­priated for the work, which enabled them to equip two pack trains with specially built cans and other necessary apparatus. -

The "Mountaineer" department of the Boston Transcript, con­ducted by .John Ritchie, .Jr., is a veritable clearing house of mountain Information. -

.:\l iss Dora Keen, who attempted the ascent of .\I t. Blackburn In Alaska last summer and was compelled to return on account of In­sufficient supplies, has a splendid record as a climber in the high Alps In the summer of 1909. In summarizing and contrasting her 1 6 climbs, she ranks the Matterhorn as the hardest. beeause it was so long un­der the conditions that they had, and was hard all the time, but the Chamonix guides do not admit that I t is harder than the Aiguil les. In general, except for the .\l atterhorn, the ascents at Chamonix were

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harder, more interesting, and more of an anxious strain than those at Zerruatt. -

The frontispiece of this Issue was done by !\ I r. A. H. Denman and !\I r. A. H . Barnes of Tacoma. -

"Awards for mcuntaln climbing achievements," is the novel an­nouncement made uy the Swedish Olympic Committee, In connection with the fifth i;eries of International Olympic Games which will oc­cupy a month the coming summer-June 29 till July 22-at Stockholm. The Swedish committee has decided to award a gold Olympic medal for the finest performances during the years 1908-1911 In game shoot­ing and mountain ascent, respectively. This Is an Innovation In that it places mountaineering very properly In the sports and fortunately In a way free from the arbitrary rules that so often give athletic awards to the most tricky rather than to the most meritorious. The leading alpine clubs in the world have the right to propose candidates for these prizes. The judging will he carried out by a special jury, the decision of which shall be In the hands of the Swedish Olympk Committee at latest by June 1 . -

Mr. P. M. '.\ lcGregor was the l\lountaineer representative on the outing of the Alpine Club of Canada for 19 1 1 . I t Is hoped that a reg­ular exehange of guests with other clubs may be instituted. -

The Sierra Club Bulletins of 19 1 1 are splendid mountaineering journals and show the great work that organization Is doing. The feature of the January, 191 1 , number Is "Cathedral Peak and the Tuo­lumne '.\leadows," by John !\I uir. This article Is an extract from the author's journal. "My First Summer in the Sierra," published this spring hy H oughton. l\l l fflln Company, Boston, with Illustrations by the author and Herbert W. Gleason. -

Refreshing as a mountain breeze comes Prof. '.\leany's collection of poems, "Mountain Campfires''. Most of the verses were written for the '.\lountalneer campfires of the various outings and wil l be wel­t·omed by the M ountaineers as a delightful reminder of charming days In the open and delightful hours of rest around the evening fires. The poems Include a sonnet to !\ It. Rainier, poems to l\l t. Adams and Glacier Peak, charming verses to the mountain flowers, trees and lakes. The book Is from the press of Lowman and Hanford and is a dainty volume bound in Japanese wood veneer with an Interesting poster cover design. -

Beautifully Illustrated by photographs and paintings by the author, "Our Greatest Mountain" is just from the press. The literary side Is

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largely by A. H. Denman, of Tacoma, Including "Outdoors I n Western Washington." "The Mountaineers," and "The :\lountaln," incorporating Prof. Meany·s poem "The Law of the Hills". Mr. Barnes Is to be con· gratulated upon the artistic beauty and general excellence of work· manshlp. The book is destined to exert a wide influence and wil l prove i. valuable addition to any mountain lover's library. -

A Eecond edition of "The l'l-lountain that was 'God'," by John H. \Vlll lams. of Tacoma. ts just. from the press of G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York and London. A copy recently received shows Interesting additions both In the text and the illustrations. We predict for the volume an even more extended popularity than the earlier edition and Increased Influence In attracting attention to our national park and the great "Monarch of the Coast".

RESOLUTIONS.

WHEREAS : Our Almighty Father has called t o rest our associate, and

WHEREA S : Frank S. Southard was an earnest, uctive, and helpful member of The Mountaineers from the beginning of the club's organ· lzation to the hour of his death ; therefore be It

RESOLVED : By the Board of Directors In meeting assembled for this special purpose, that we give expression to our appreciation of his noble qualities of manhood, to our sorrow over his being called up the last long trnl l, and to our sympathy with members of his bereaved fam ily ; and be it further

Rl<:::SOLVED: That we Invite all the members of The Mountaineers to assemble at the t ime and place designated for the funeral that we may give to our departed friend a last tribute of respect. -

WHEREAS ; The fifth annual outing of the Mountaineers Is about to close ; and,

WHEREA S : This outing has been In all essentials highly pleas· urable owing not only to the scenic character of the route selected but also to the excellent camp management ; and.

WHEREAS : The trip has presented unusual and unexpected dif· flcult les calling for exceptional services and sacrifice on the part of many committees and Individuals ; therefore, be I t

RESOLVED: That we acknowledge our appreciation particularly :

FIRST: To those who originally gathered the Information and projected the route.

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SECOND : To the present outing committee whose untiring en· ergy and painstaking efforts have overcome all obstacles and brought the outing to a successful consummation.

THIRD : To David McColl, the sheep herder, Albert Bertsch!, the forest ranger, aud Hugo Kuhnhausen of Lewis, who rendered In­valuable services in overcoming unforeseen difficulties.

FOll RTH : To those who accompanied the pack train In to Lang­mire Springs and gave freely of their time and energy in outlining the best possible course.

FIFTH : To the scouts and all others who were called upon or volunteered to make extra trips tor the benefit of the party or of In­dividuals for whose welfare the party fel t responsible.

SIXTH : To the doctor and nurses who rendered gratuitous pro­fessional services.

SEVE:--JTH : To the program committee and all who In any way contributed to the camp-fire program, especially to our gifted pres­ident whose Indian lore and nature verses have added a peculiar charm and interest to our evening gatherings.

EIG HT H : To the packers to whom fell the arduous labor of transporting our provisions and dunnage over well-nigh Impassable trails and completed the task without accident of any kind.

NI:-;TH : To the chef and his capable assistants. "who worked while their companions slept", and whose sklll, industry and splendid management added to their enviable record gained on previous trips.

AND Fl.:'\ALLY : To the many who have not otherwise been men­tioned but who have cheerfully and unselfishly given of their strength and talent to make t his outing one of the most memorable the club has ever undertaken ; and be i t further

RESOLVED, That these resolutions be made a part of the records of the dub and printed in the official publication and that copies be sent to Mr. '.\icColl , '.\ Ir. Bertsch! and :.t r. Kuhnhausen.

ROBERT E. MORITZ WINONA BAILEY G ERTRUDE INEZ STREATOR A. H . BRACKETT WINIFRED MACFARLAND

Committee on Resolutions

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C< )RR ESPON I>EXCK

When In Seatt le on his way to Alaska, Secretary of the Interior Walter L. Fisher asked Mr. Asahel Curtis to prepare a list of suggestions for the Rainier National Park. Sueh a list was prepared and submitted to him. Some such plan of action should be decided ·upon and a strong committee put at work to see that It Is carried out. They should have the support of the club members until t he l\Ioun­talneers are reeognlzed as a power that must be reckoned with In all affairs 1>ertalnlng to the mountains.

As Seeretary Fisher writes, It Is necessary to get the people or the state of Washington Interested In this and get the approprla· tlons through Congress. The Secretary of the Interior has recoru· mended appropriations for the park many times, but there has been no support of his recommendations and tht•y have failed of eongress­ional approval. A recommendation has been Included in the Secre­tary's report this year. It Is now up to the people or the state that it does not rail In Congress.

November 9, 1 9 1 1 Dear Sir :

I have been examining your communications of September 7th and 8th, with regard to Rainier :>:ational Park, and am very mueh inter­ested In them. I find, however. that practically all of your suggestions will require runds that are not now available. Indeed, the entire ques­tion of what Is to be done at the Rainier Park depends so very largely upon the action of the next Congress with regard to the appropriations and also the creation of the 1>roposed Bureau of :--atlonal Parks, that I suggest that you take it up with the people in the State of Wash­ington who are Interested and see what can be done to seeure from Congr('SS the nec!'ssary legislation and appropriations. It wil l give me very great pleasure. Indeed, if Congress enables us to put the national park administration on an efficient basis. and If adequate funds are supplied to de,·elop these parks as they should be developed.

I believe that Inspector Keys, of this department , Is now In the Rainier Park making an Investigation, the result or which will be re­ported ror our use before the Appropriations Committ<'e.

Thanking you for your kind expressions with regard to myself. am, Sincerely yours.

(Signed ) WALTER L. FIS l- r nR. Secretary

Suggestions for work In the Rainier National Park In the order of their Importance :

1st. The creation of a Bureau of .:\'atlonal Parks and the appoint· ment of a :>:ational Park Commission.

2nd. The organization of a definite project for the construction of trails and roads within the National Park In order that all work done

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in i ts dPn·loprnPnt bP toward some dPfinlte end, and be of permanent value. This projP!'!. should <'Onsist of two separate divisions, one for t rail work and one for roads. The trail work seems to be of first im­portan<·P. for at un'sPnt the nark is ora<'t ically at the mercy of a fire and la l'!w arPas art> closed to all travel.

Th<' following nroje<'t is suggn;ted for the park, the subjects being gi n•n in l l1 C' following order of their lmportan<'e :

l s l . The opPnlng of t h<' old t rails on the mountain, where such t rails a n• on thL· g,•nPral 1i 1 1P of travel. and the establishment of new t ra ils to enable t lw nark rangc•rs to go from one park on the mountain to a11othPr without making the long detour to the lower valleys now ne<·esrnry. This t ra i l work S<'<'IUS very necessary to afford fire pro­tN·tion, for as tht' trails now exist it would. in many cases. take a day 01· two t o reac·h a tire that was only a few miles away. A proper system of t ra i ls would trlpll' the value of the rangns.

2nd. Widening the tH'esPnt road from the park entrance to Para· dise Val11•y to a width of sixtL•en feet and the construction of parapets at dani:;erous ooi n t s, to prevent autos and stages from going off grade. ( This rP<·ommendat ion is mack because it Is now practically re<'Og· n.ized th11t this road is C'l'eath1g a new situation in national parks af­fairs. and that it will 1101 Ion'!; be nossible to keep the autos off the mo1111 tain road ahove the glader. The fact that the park Is close to two U� l ' i t ies and tha t a large auto traffic Is already making use of the road t o the i:;lacin, is in a measure forcing the situation.) At present this road Is not safe for the combined traffic that Is permitted to usP i t . that or sta�n; and autos. The road was built as a stage road and lat< 'r autos wt> re ,wrmit ted to use i t . Now that such permission has heen given the only safe course to take Is to make It wide enough to aceommodate hot h kinds of travel.

:lrd. The extension of the present road from Paradise Valley along the route suggestPd by Eugene Rickse<'ker through Magnetic Park and around the Cowlitz Glacier t o Cowlitz Park on the southeast side of the mountain. This road should be connected with the road system of Yakima County to enable the people of eastern \Vashlngton to visit the Xational Park.

4th. The extension ot the present road from some point above Longmire through Van Trump Park to Indian Henry's Hunting G round . This would open up one 1>ark that i s now Inaccessible to any form of travel except afoot across Ice-fields and deep canyons.

;;th. The <·onstruction of a road up the valley of the Carbon to the ice-fields and then,·e to Spray Park on the northwest slope and Into lloralne Park on the north slope of the mountain. This country Is now reached only by a system of trails that is wholly Inadequate for fire protection or tourist travel. The north side Is almost lnaccessable at !lresent, and In some cases If a ranger saw a fire when it started lt would be two days before he could get to It.

A svstem of roads as given above would require years to complete and if the work was started the road would naturally continue all

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around the mountain. Before such a n extensive road system could be

completed it would be necessary to build a verv complete system of

trails and It would not be advisable to make them along the line of

the proposed road.

A shelter should be erected at Camp :'.\tulr at an elevation of 10,000

feet. Such a hut could be constructed from the rock that Is on the

ground. The cement necessary for such construction could be packed

nearly to Camp :'.\lulr on horses If a short piece of trail was constructed

at the base of Timberline Ridge.

Sanitary conditions should obtain at all of the mountain camps.

At present there Is much refuse scattered around and large plies of

manure are taken out of the stables at Longmire Springs and scattered

over the ground. There have been many cases of fevu reported among

visitors to the park this summer. I believe that a sewer system will

soon be absolutely necessary, not only at Longmire but at the moun­

tain camps.

I am not repeating the s1>lendld recommendations of Mr. :\latthes

regarding the guides. It meets with mv approval in every wav and Is

so much better coming from a man who is entirely free from any

local prejudice. I believe that the guides, who at present are located

on the south side, would welcome such reg11latlon. It would serve

to clear up the situation.

In the matter of the patrol of the park it would seem advisable

to have a company of soldiers stationed there during the tourist sea­

son. On this point Mr. Hall would be the best advised. The Moun­

taineers got a bill through Congress permitting the Secretary of War

to loan a company to the Secretary of the Interior for that purpose,

but I believe they were never detailed.

At the present time tourists are not allowed to pick flowers, yet

stock Is permitted to graze in the park. This has caused much ad­

verse comment. It would scarcely seem that the l ittle value of milk

at the camp In Paradise would justify the grazing of cows there.

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T H E l\T O L;NTAI N l<�ERS, 1911 -12

OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS

Prof. Edmond S. )l eany, President . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402fi 10th Ave. N. E. Dr. E . F. Stevens, Vice-presiden t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 505 East Madison Chas. �r. Farrer, Secretary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522 Pioneer Building .John A. Best, Jr. , Assistant Secretary . . . . . . . . . . . . 433 New York Block P. )I . :11 cGregor, Treasurer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cobb Building Miss Winona Bailey, Historian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 608 E. Union l\l lss Lu lie Nettleton. Editor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1806 8th Ave. West

George E. Wright . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1227 38th Ave. !'I:. L. A. Xelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hazel . Wash. H. C. Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 16th Ave. :N. Charles Albertson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The Chelsea Dr. H. B. Hinman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260ii Baker Ave., Everett, Wash. A. H. Denman . . . . . . . . fi00-3 :'-lat'! Bank of Com. Bldg., Tacoma, Wash. Roy Hurd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1522 6th Ave.

SECRETARY'S REPORT During the past season, the membership of the Mountaineers has

increased from 314 to 376 and never before were there so many active and in terested members, able and willing to do a share of the work necessary in conducting our organization. The work to be done by the din'erent. commit.tees was neeessarilv augmented, but It was oer­formed willingly, che<>rfully and successfully.

The local branch at Everett was also active in keeping up Its large membership and in organizing local walks and some very successful outings.

Early In the season a special committee framed a new constitu­tion for the club. As adopted, among other matters of lmoortance, I t provides that local branches shall retain a portion of their receipts for necessary expenditures.

In outside matters the club has taken an active Interest in mauy undertakings, some of which were commenced last vear. The com­mittee appointed at the request of Francois B. Mathes, of the U. S. G. S., to aid him In seleeting names for many points of Interest in the Rain­ier National Park, continued their work. \Ve also continued our ef­forts to obtain a state nark on the summit of Mt. Constitution and have taken aetion concerning the proposed bureau of national parks and the bills to Include the King and Kern River valleys in the Se­quoia National Forest, in California.

Fol lowing our endorsement of Congressman Humphrey's proposed bill J)ro ,·iding for a change in the status of the Olympic )lonument. makin� it a national park, a special committee was apolnted to meet

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The .M 0 111 1tai11ecr 73

Secretary Fisher In Seattle to discuss the situation with him. Later, our C"ommlttee, together with representatives from the Seattle Com­mercial Club, Southwestern Washington Development Association, Ho· qulam Commercial Club, Olympic )liners' Qulnault Improvement Asso­ciation and Tacoma Commercial Club, adopted the following sugges­tions for a plan of action In regard to the Olympic Monument and pre­sented them to the Secretary of the Interior. They advised :

! st . The Investigation of the mineral resources of the monument by a member of the U. S. G. S.

2nd. Determination by a committee of western men who are fa­miliar with the country in the proposed park, as to proper boundaries.

3rd. Preparation through Congressman Humphrey, of a b11l to be Introduced in Congress, making the monument a national park, with a clause providing for prospecting and mining, the cutting of timber for mining purposes and the development of water power for the same purpose.

Our club was represented at the Mountain Climbers' Convention In Honolulu by :'.\I r. Thurston.

CHARLES l\l . FARRER, Secretary

TREASURER'S REPORT

1910-19 1 1

Receipts Balance In Seattle National Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 1 ,140.81 Balance In Bank of California ( Outing Fund) . . . . . . Financial Secretary ( Dues) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Secretary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Local \Valks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Advertising In 1910 Annual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Advertising In Prospectus and Bulletin . . . . . . . . . . . . :'.\llscellaneous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refund from Railroad ( Mt. Adams preliminary trip) Balance from Mt. Adams Outing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Expenditures

l i2.18 96i.OO

1 6.00 1 23.06

96.i5 88.00

8.50 10.40 42.53 $2.665.23

Annual Magazine, 1 910 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 5:i5.40 Stamps for Annual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.00 L. A. Nelson, salary 4 months . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Florists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l\l ajor E. S. Ingraham ( trip to !\It. Rainier) . . . . . . . Slides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Printing Prospectus and Bulletin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Printing notices and stationery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Addressing and malling, stam1>s, etc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stamped envelopes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :\!lscellaneous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glacier Peak reunion, 1910 (Outing Fund ) . . . . . . . . .

120.00 20.:lO 1 2.40 66.35

13 t .8;; 83.70 54.23 30.00 19.90 10.00

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The Jlo1111tai11ecr

Chas. M. Farrer, trip to M t. Rainier ( Outing Fund) 17.20 Photos for packers ( Outing Fund) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.10 Investment, City Improvement 7 '/, Bonds . . . . . . . . . . 1 ,042.66 $2 ,201.09

Balance in Seattle National Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 245.83 Balance In Bank of California (Outing Fund) . . . . . 207.91 Balance in Bank for Savings ( Permanent Fund ) . . 33.00

$ 486.74 Outstanding checks, Oct. 14, 191 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.60

Total cash on hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 464.14 Audited : Respectfully submitted,

C. G. CLARKE P. i\l . :\lcGREGOR, H. R. LEAR Treasurer

REPORT OF O t:TING COMMITTEE UPON O UTING OF 1911 When the Outing Committee as at present constituted took charge

In the early spring of this year, the task set before them was such as to make them consider whether a less ambitious trip should not be undertaken. The plan of the trip, however, had already been an­nounced and so It had to be put through.

The party started numbering sixty-six , but the illness of one com­pelled two to turn back after the third clay, leaving sixty-four mem­bers who completed the trip. This number, with three cooks and six packers, made a total party of seventy-three. Of the sixty-four mem· bers who completed the trip, thirty-six were women and twenty-eight were men, while thirty-six had not been on any previous Mountaineer summer outing.

The trip as nearl:v as can be computed covered a circuit of 483 miles, of which 266 were by railroad. 55 by boat and 162 were on foot. Of the 1 62 miles walked, 33 were over wagon roads, 76 were over good trails and 5:{ miles were over Indian trails, animal trails and no trail at a l l . While we were following the 53 miles of poor trail and no trail , we crossed the summit of the Cascades nine times and followed the summit itself for considerable distances on two occasions. Dur­ing the trip the party climbed in the aggregate over 20,000 feet.

The party was In camp 21 nights in 16 different camps, six of which were in the upper meadow country In close proximity to snow. Upon only one occasion, the day of the climb of Mt. Adams, was the party after daylight in reaching camp, and there was no occasion when any part of the commissary or dunnage was after sunset in be­ing delivered at camp.

We had no accidents of any kind and but two cases of il lness. The only serious il lness was that of one of our packers. Mr. Paul Kuhn­hausen. We are glad to anounce that Mr. Kubnhausen has recently reported that he has recovered from his illness.

In the matter of the finanees of the trip, the amount received from the members of the outing, less amounts refunded to them for various

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The M 01111tai11ecr 75

reasons, totals $2,938.20 ; while the disbursements less various miscel­laneous receipts aggregate $2,919.77 ; leaving on hand In the Outing Fund the sum of $19 1 .01 , being $18.43 more than at the beginning of the year. Detailed statements of all receipts and disbursements are on file with l)oth the secretary and the treasurer and all vouchers are on file with the treasurer and any member Is welcome to examine them if he so desires.

Respectfully submitted, H. C_ BELT,

Chairman

REPORT OF LOCAL WALKS COi\l MITTEE

The local walks have increased In interest, number and attendance throughout the ten and one-half months covered by this report. Owing to this, your committee has been able to add to the range of country traveled and to the variety of trips oft'ered.

On several walks there were Interesting ten-minute talks and a number of the trips were to objects of h istorical or &pecial signfflcance.

The four special outings averaged 87 people. The average attend· ance for 23 Sunday walks was 83 and the average distance 11 miles. For 15 Saturday walks the average was 22 and the distance 5 miles. There was a total increase of 60'/o in the number of Mountaineers participating in these walks.

ROY HURD EDWARD W. ALLEN CHAS. ALBERTSON

Augustine & Kyer's good coiree and other dainties form a delight· ful feature of the Mountaineer local walks and outings.

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0

cg. f'i (D 0. rr '<

S l , !\L\1 ARY OF LOCA L WALKS

No. \ Date.

I Route. Lend Pr

94 n5 06 ,, !18 99

1 00 1 0 1 ] ()2 1 03 l 04

1 05 1 01; 107 1 08 10 !1 1 1 0 I l l 1 1 2 J l3 1 1 � 1 l fi 1 1 6 1 17 1 1 11 1 I P

\No,·. 27. 1 9 1 0 T-nf,·,,r" l t y. Pon t iac and LakP \\·ash l 11 g-ton . llt'C. 3. l n l O • B i l ler Lake, l'n l versi tv r.rnu11<ls . . . . . . . llP<' 1 1 . 1 !1 1 0 Pnrt ;\!acli,mn. '.\'Ing J ;nlnt . . . . . . . . . . . . . n .. c 1 s. 1 9 1 O Sunnysltlr. Bel l e,·ue . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . .

[Jan. 1 9 1 1 J uanita Bil)', J l,,rby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jan. 1 1 , 1 !1 1 1 , ll a l l Lake. Bothell . K l rklnnd . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jan. :l :l. 1 9 1 1 Yn,shnn l l elgh lis, Llsnlwula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jnn. 2, . lnl 1 •r.ol f and l'ountry Cluu, Bit ter T--t ke . . • . . . . Jan. �ll. 1 9 1 1 B,• J l ,•v11p. Juani ta. Bell.i,·u,· . . . . . . . . . . . . F'l'l•. 5. 1 9 1 l Ori I l ia . • .\ ngle Lake. Ori I l ia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Feb. 1 1 . 1 9 1 1 t Lake J\!e Al ,·t·r. EdmonllR. B i l t<·r Lak,•, S,·-

I '. M . .'.11 cGreg-or \\'Jnonn R n l l• ·�· H. H. McK,·,• . . . . . . . . . . . nra<'P I--Iown rd . . . . . I". S. Sou thn r<I . . . . . . . . . . l' �. Gh·a�on . . . . . . . . . . . Lyfl i a E. Ln,·1·r ing . . . . . , H . .'.ltay Baptl,• . . . . . . . J .11 1 1 " Net t l ,• 1 "11 . . . . . . . . / rr. I rv ing t ;a n.-'l l . . . . . . · l

IFt·b. Fd.1. Feh. ;\far. l\far. ;\Jar. .'.llar. April April April April April Apri l

n t l l , · . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R T. Hng-,·man . . . . . ,

I May i\Iu y

l !I , 1 � 1 1 .,\ ":�t.e Poi n t . Ro� } i n g !31tY, ·wing Pnl n t . . . . . < 'nr:t f;�1� i_t !'. l·:11 ton . . . • . · 1 �fi, 1 , 1 1 l\lcr, er J ,sl nnd. LnRt �ent tlc, Appl eton . . . . • \ l ic e 1' 1 ;1 , 1 . . • • . . . • . . • . _ r,, mu Be>ll,•,·u,·. Lak,· �am m n m lsh. R,·n ton . . . . . :-1a r�· 1 .. l lnn l . . . . . . . . . .

5, 1 91 1 F'or..s,1 Park, North rr1>,·k, i l n•r Lnk,• . . . I I . B . l l l n man . . . . . . . 1 1 , 1 9 1 1 •Mell I na. Klrkluncl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Luey r. I Jonughu,• . . . . . . 1 9, 1 9 1 1 Fauntleroy, South Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 . \\'. Pi;1 y 1 ,•r . . . . , . , · . ·

1 2�, 1 9 11 ° 81 L IPr Lake, Blu fl'i,, Bal l a rd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l,n t h l t·en norllnm . . . . • . -, 1 9 1 1 Stone·s Ln nding, Tacoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I I 1 · Bel l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S, 1 9 1 1 t Hazel wooll. K i rkland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 Y. A lwl . . . . . . " ' " " I 9. 1 9 1 1 rolhy, Point Gln,·er. Pnrt Orehard . . . . . . . . E. \\' . . \ 1 11 ·11 . . . . . . . . .. .

:!2. l !l l l • Fort Lawton. West Point L,t ght . . . . . • . . . 1•:l lznhel 11 i\ loore . . . . . . . 23. 1 9 1 1 N,•wport . Coal Creek. Hazelwood . . . . . . . . . A. C'. Nntlon . . . . . . . . . . 30, 1 9 1 1 Portage. Poi n t Robinson Ligh t. Raf>c·o . . . . n . T \\' l l l lnm" . . . . . . . . .

6, 1 9 1 1 •Bird , Ludy \Val k- n rt ls, Junn l la . . . . . . . . ,\tl t· l a l<l,· Pol l n<.'k . 7, l 9 1 1 Vin I Pt ·walk-Spann wn;1, Lake. Tac-oma

Pra i ri e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Christ ine Cameron . . . . . . 1 20 May 1 2 1 MR)' ] O •I �fny

1 4, 1 9 1 1 Tula l i p I nd ian Resen·:1 1 tnn. Lake . . . . . . . :\ lnhel E. Odell . . . . . . . . . �_;o

1 ..

1 9 1 1 •Ba l ley Penln1<ula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J une Oakley . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 1 1 Rhododendron Walk-Hidden Ra neh . . . . . . l\lary R. Paschall . . . . . . .

1 23 Jun l :l 4 June J ;!5 '

,June

l 26 June 1 27 'Sept. 1 2 8 Sept. 1 �9 i'Oct. 1 30 OC'to. �1 1 !Oct.

10. 1 9 1 1 •Plea1'ant Br-nch. Port Blal<eley, Eagl<' Harbor ('lnra A. Da)·ton . . . . • . . . 1 1 , 1 9 1 1 Youngstown, Fnunt leroy Pnrk . . . . . . . . . . . Li', Q. Gorton . . . . • • . · · · i 1 7, 1 9 1 1 •Schmitz Park. Fau n l iero;1· Cnve . . . . . . . . . . . J . :\1. chor gge . . . . . . . . 26, 1 9 1 1 l\lcKenna Fal ls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "'m. H. RPes . . . . . . . . . . . J 7 , 1 9 1 1 ('urt ls, Redmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . i\l nbel Furry . . . . . . . . . . . 30, 1 9 1 1 • Haller Lak lo t:nlv. of Wn!lh . . . . . . . . . . . . . Su,.nnna Kel!Plt . . . . . . . .

l , 1 9 1 1 BellPVue, Lake am mamlsh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1nr. \V, 1:1. Power . . . . . . . .

, 7. 1 9 1 1 •Mt. Baker Pnrk Boulevnr<.I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . El izabet h Ki rkwood . . . . 1 6. 1 9 1 1 A ppfo Tree CoYe, Chle>r S11attle'R Grave • . . . l�uward K Trio! . . . . . . . ---

SPECIAL UTI NGS. I 1 1 in,,,. 31-- -

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•H,tt o rdi\y a fl«-rnuon t A l l doy u 11d lu, t r dny Sn t u nlny '-'omlJ1 ned. i:sn t u rdn.)· u rt,·rnonn nnt.1 t.•n0111 n re.

-,

See America First

�li6o-�HE GLACIER K :\TION:\L P,\RK voices a "call of the wild'' to the mountaineer and others who love to wander and behold the wonders of mountain, lake, for­est and glacier, which God created in certain places of this earth for the enjoyment of His children.

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK is the newest and second largest of our national parks. It was created by act of Congress in February l !Jl 0, and ' ' Uncle Sam" is now at work building roads and trails. constructing buildings and making its scenic wonders accessible to the tourist.

The park is located in northwestern l\Jontana and comprises an area of 1 ,400 square miles. bounded on the north by the Canadian line, on the south by the Great Korthern Railway. on the east by the Blackfeet Indian reservation, and on the west by the north fork of the Flathead R iver.

The main range of the Rocky l\lountains extends from north tti south through the park. and within this region is compressed a variety of mountain scenery, unsurpassed for beauty and grandeur in this country or Europe.

Within the limits of the park are 2ti0 lakes. rang­ing from twelve miles to a few hundred feet in extent, noteworthy among them being Lakes l\lcDonalcl, St. l\fary. Iceberg, Louise, l\lcDermott ancl Kintla. There are more than sixty massive livinl,{ glaciers between five square miles and a few acres in area. Blackfoot, Harrison, Pumpelly, Sperry and Chaney Glaciers are the most important. The mountain peaks range in height from sevf'n to over ten thousand feet. The view from Lincoln Peak or Gunsight Pass. both accessible to the tourist. is a magnificent one covering a hundred miles of the main range of the Rocky l\Iountains.

There are two entrances to the Park-one at Bel­ton. and the other at :\Iidvale. both located on the main line of the Great '.\orthern Ry. Special roundtrip ex­cursion rates are made from all points East and \Vest to Glacier -X ational Park during the season. Any ( ;reat Northern agent will gladly give you particulars regarding fares and accommodations. as well as sup­ply you with literature describing l'ncle Sam 's newest playground, which is destined to become the greatest attraction for tourists on the '.\orth American continent.

W. A. ROSS Aut. Cen'I Pau. Arreat

Seattle, Wuh.

H. A. NOBLE General Paa1en1er Aaent

St Paul, Mina.

PI,J<_;ASE PATRONIZE THE A DVERTISERS A N I J M ENT I ON T H I-: l\!Ol"NTA INl�ER

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SUPREME '" tl.e Traveling

-World To Travel East on

'Ifie Olympian THE "ALL-STEEL" TRAIN OF ''THE NEW STEEL TRAIL"

u to t ravel amid every convenience ancl luxury of the tw.:ntieth c.:ntury. Unique in its conception and' sumptuous

in its appointments, " 'lire Olympian' ' represents the very heigbth of accomplishment in railroad equipment and service. Factors

that appeal to the critical and d iscerning passenger are the d istrib­ution of . . Olym;,ian-grams.'' giving bulletins of the important events of the day. and the afternoon serving of tea in the lounge observation car-which occasion is p resided over by one of the lady travelers. Other features are the scrupulous train clean-liness; made possible by the vacuum cleaning system: the advan­tage of long d istance t elephone connection at stations: the con­

venience of l ibrary . w riting room. barber shop. bath room, clothes pressin�. men's club room and buffet: and the·

comfort of berths that really are .. longer, higher and

Leaves

Seattle for

w�der .. than on any other road . Traveling becomes a pleasure on

this palatial t ra in as it speeds onward over "the short­

est route to the East . . .

Olicago Daily at l o: J s A. M.

Cliicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Ry.

GEO W H I BBA RD Ccoc r. 1 P,.,cn�cr Agent. Suttle R M C ALKINS. T ,:.ff,c M�n�gcr

Pl.EASE PATRONIZE THF. A DVERTISERS AND MF.NTION THE MOUNTAI NEER

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M o u n t a i n e e r s ' C l o t h i n g

Cravenette ' 'D uxbak" Waterproof

We call your particular attention to our extensive line of suitable o u t i n g a p p a r e l f o r w o m e n

Yours /or

Quality

" Duxbak" Boot Dressing Waterproof Boots

P i p e r & Ta f t Quality I n c o rp o ra t ed

New Location After February First 1 1 1 7 Sec ond Aven u e

at Fair Prices

"Mountain Camp Fires" By PROFESSOR EDMOND S. MEAN Y

C]f We announce for publica­tion in the month of November, " M ou n ta i n C am p F i res ," being the collected poems of Professor Edmond S. Meany of the University of \Nash ington.

fj Bound in wood veneer. With front­i sp i e c e by C u rt i s. Pr i c e $ 1 .00 n e t . Postage 8c additional.

PLF:.\SE P.-\ THO=" IZE T i l t•: .\ l l\· t·:RTIR�; RS .-\Nil M E:-.TJON THE M O l ' N1'.-\ l N EER

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C. C . Filson (]Manufacturer of Waterproof Khaki, English Gabar­d ine, Hunting Coats, Women's Outing Clothing, Sleeping Bags, Blankets, Wool Batts, etc. (JI All kinds of Bedding and Clothing used for

Outdoor life.

(JI References: Every Mountaineer patron.

101 1 First Avenue, Seattle

Th B t That Stands the Work

e O O - Most Prac t i cal and Popula r

Norman & Bennett's Every Mountaineer .Knows I ts Value

A , Brown Brothers 722 First Avenue Corner Columbia Seattle

Seattle Tent and Awning Co.

Manufacturers and J obbers-Silk Ten ts M ad e t o O rd e r for Mountaineers and

Sportsmen - Sleeping Bags and Tarpaulins

Spr i n g S t re e t a n d We s te rn Ave n u e - S e att l e

PLEAi-;i.; P.\ T R( INJZE T H F: A l l\' ERTI S E R:, A :-; f) :VI F:NTION THE MOUNTA I N EER

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Printing and E ngravi ng

The Shop tha t Satis/ies­The Lumbermen's Printing C 147-148 He n rv • s

J Offipany Bui ld i n g . lfl eatt e Ttltphonn - Sunset M a i n 3 0 2 5 and I n dependent 3650

The Seattle National Bank Second Avenue and Cherry Street

O F F I C E R S E. \N. A NllREWS, Pr,·sidrn I J. \V. SrANc;u:R, / "icc-Prcsid,·11/ E. G. A )t ES, l,.iu-Prcsidc11/ F. K. Snt:n:. / 'icc-Pr,·sidc11t R. V . . ·\ N KF. ', \" , c,,sl,i.-, C. L. LA �t rlNG, .../ssista11t Cashi.-r H. C. ?.-IAcDoNALD, Assista11/ Cashi.-r C. L. LA GRAl'E, Assis/1111/ Cashi,·r Wr.-1. S. PEACHEY, Assisla11 / Cashier

Resources Over $16,000,000.00

D I R E C T O R S ] . FvRTH , Cl111ir111<111 E. W. ANutu:ws E. G. A �I ES R. V. A N KENY llER �IAN CHAPIN DAN IEi. KEI.LEHF.R F. K. STRUVE

Mountaineer Annual Mt. Adams Number

191 1

On sale at the office of the Financial Secretary JOHN A. BEST, J r. , 433 New York Block

Vols. 1, 11 and 111 on sale at $I.25 per set

Pl;E..\SE PATRONIZE T H E ,\ D\' J-:RTISERS A l\" ll �IENTION T H E l\Hll' NT..\ I NF.El1

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