IntroThis DIY will walk through, in detail, the steps that I took in creating my retrofits. This will be covered in 2 parts. The first part will include disassembling, cutting, test fitting, and bonding the housing. The second part will include mounting, modifying the covers, sealing up, and wiring.

Words of Advice (Thanks to oneskll)Quote, originally posted byoneskll

Just wanted to add my $.02.

First of all if you want to do a retrofit it will take a lot of time, a good amount of skill, a little knowledge, and a ton of patience!

Here is some advice I wish I had when doing my first two sets, by the third I have pretty much gotten the hang of it.

1) the smaller the projector, the easier it will be (small as in the length from the lense to the back where you place the bulb),

2) test fit everything on every step of the way!

3) if you use jbweld make sure you make it look as perfect as you can before it dries since sanding is a bitch and the little corners are hard to get to (if you need use jbquick and painters tape to stop it from dripping everywhere),

4) line up the housing you make with the blinker/fog this will help you in the long run when adjusting the projector,

5) make sure the projector doesn't touch the housing in the back so you can use the stock adjusters or you will be sorry when you haveto adjust them,

6) take your time!

7) if you do mess up a little satin-black or semi-gloss black will hide your mistakes alot better then gloss or flat which will show all the imperfections

8) make sure you start with a perfect headlights lense, because that is the only thing that is not an easy fix if scratched or messed up.

9) take your time!

10) since you need alot of time and space to do this make sure you have an extra set of headlights to have on your car or you will rush through it and screw it up!

Anyway good luck!

Difficulty Level: Medium; Need to be good with your hands and have a little creativity.Tools / Parts UsedLighting-(2) OEM E46 Bi-xenon projectors w/ solenoid/cut-off shield (3-wire) and D2S bulb holders - $110 -Use E55 Bi-xenon projectors over the E46 if possible. Makes mounting a lot easier.Note: The E55 projectors are easier to mount as they are more proportional-D2S 35W Ballast with built-in ignitors-D2S Bulbs - 6K-Set of Jetta headlights without fogs - $85

Wiring-Power relay - $30-VW Repair Wire - $4.90 (Part #: 000 979 133)-(2) Solinoid Controllers - 3-wire to 2-wire circuit board/pigtails - $18

Misc.-(2) 3" ID (Inside Diameter) PVC - $12-JB Weld (A lot) - $12Fusor is a better choice - JB Weld will crack over time-Outdoor silicon-(8) #10 Wood Screws - 1-1/4" - $9-3/16" Flat washers (A lot) - $6-Krylon Satin Black spray paint - $6-Permanent marker

Extras-Dual turn signals w/ Amber lenses - $35 (Thanks to Underground VW Parts)-3" Shrouds - $46 off eBay

Tools-Wide flathead screwdriver-T-15 Torx Drive (For turn signals and fogs)-T-10 Torx Drive-Dremel or some sort of dynamic cutting device-Oven/Hairdryer/Heat gun-Solder / Iron / Electrical tape

Total Spent: ~$500StepsPart IStep 1 - Disassemble HeadlampsStep 2 - Cuttin' Sh*t UpStep 3 - Preparing Projectors for Test FittingStep 4 - Test FittingStep 5 - Bonding the Housing

Part IIStep 6 - ExtrasStep 7 - Mounting ProjectorsStep 8 - Modifying CoversStep 9 - WiringStep 10 - Finishing Touches

Step 1 - Disassemble Headlamps:I am using regular OEM Jetta headlamps, without fogs.

Start by removing the metal clips that help to hold the lens to the housing:

Then you need to remove the covers on the back along with rubber drain hoses:

Next remove the wiring harness to the turn signals and low/high beam bulb. Then pull the bulbs out.

Use either a heat gun/hairdryer or oven to loosen the sealant. I used the oven. Preheat to 175-200F, then put in one headlamp. Lens should not make contact with anything in the oven. I also used a cookie sheet to sit the headlamp on. Leave it in for 60-90sec, pull it out and use a wide flathead screwdriver and start to pry apart one corner of the lamp. Once you get it to where you can get a good grip on it, start using your hands to pull the lens apart from the housing.

Now we need to separate the reflector shield from the housing. There are to 2 "ball-joint" like fasteners. Basically you just need to pull hard at the joints and they will pop off. Pics below shows the joints.

Now to remove the wiring from the stock lamps. There are 2 wide and 2 narrow security clips on the back of the harness plug. Start with the 2 wide clips; press them and move the harness plug half way out of its' place. Then do the 2 narrow clips to completely remove the plug.

The stock 9007 plug will not fit through the hole, so you will need to cut it off.

On the reflector shield, remove the turn signal housing/lens by removing the 3 T-15 screws.

Then remove the black supporting bracket by unscrewing the T-15 screw:

Then release the security clip on the other end of the bracket and it will come off with a little pulling:

On the headlight lens you need to remove the surround for painting later. There are 6 T-10 screw holding it to the lens. Remove those and it will come out in 2 pieces.

Step 2 - Cuttin' Sh*t UpTaking the 3" ID PVC connector start to take measurements and trace an outline of the outside diameter of PVC connector onto the back of the reflector shield.

I used a Dremel to make smooth and precise cuts. Once the hole is cut put the PVC connector up to it and start to grind away at the hole until the PVC connector can slide through.

Step 3 - Preparing Projectors for Test FittingBought my OEM E46 projectors and bulb holders off eBay. Received them 3 days later in great condition:

I started by disassembling them to remove the lenses and start to get measurements. There are (4) T-15 torx screws holding the lens and frame. Remove these bolts carefully, not to drop the frame and lens. Then separate from the rest of the housing:

Next, on the inside of the lens frame you can see how the lens is being held into place. First, push back the safety bends with a pair of pliers or if your a badass, with your fingers:

Now, you will see the metal safety ring sitting on the lens. Simply go for the middle of the ring (opposite of the ring gap) and gently pull up. Continue around the ring until it comes out. Then, using your fingers hold the lens in place while you turn the frame 180* and gently lift it off the lens:

I then cleaned the lens and made sure there were no scratches or breaks, wrapped them up and put them in safe keeping until later on:

Once they are separated the solenoid and cut-off shield will easily slide forward and off the housing:

Step 4 - Test FittingTaking the lens frame and a 3" ID PVC sit it inside to see how it is going to fit. I needed to make 2 notches in the PVC connector because the lens frame has 2 legs that extrude past 3" in diameter.

Now to test fit the projector housing. I will be using 1-1/4" #10 wood screws and 3/16" washers to mount it in place.

Note: I painted the PVC fittings before test fitting; which shouldn't be done because of scratching/blemishing the paint while test fitting.

2 of the holes line up to the slot on the PVC and 2 hang over a little. In order to mount the other 2 I used some brackets - same brackets that hold the 1.8T engine cover to the valve cover - and used a metal grinder to grind away whatever needed for it to sit flush.

Now to paint whatever needs to be painted. I will be painting the PVC connectors, lens frames, reflector shield and surrounds. I am using Krylon Satin Black. I lightly sanded the surfaces before painting. Then a couple coats of paint should be good.

During drying times I cleaned up the lenses.I used a flathead screwdriver to scrap away most of it. Then finished it off using some GooGone. Finally I washed the lenses and this is the result after 1 round of polishing.

Step 5 - Bonding the HousingI first sat the PVC fitting in the reflector housing. Then I made sure the PVC was in the correct orientation; both horizontal and vertical. Below shows correct orientation.

Once the orientation was set I mixed up with JB Weld and applied all the away around. This coat was kind of thin, so I will be putting another layer on.

Note: JB Weld will crack over time. It is better to use an automotive repair adhesive like Fusor.

Once the JB Weld has set up I added another coat of paint.

I have also recently decided to grab some shrouds off eBay. Grabbed them for $46 shipped.

Since the shrouds will require me to sit the lens and frame further out the front of the PVC fitting I needed to cut complete notches. I also needed to sand down the lip on the PVC fitting so it was flush with the rest in order for the shroud to fit properly.

Then I needed to shave a little off the inner sides in order for the cut-off shield to drop without interference. It just takes a lot of testing, marking, and cutting. These are not the easiest projectors to deal with.