montana adventurer winter 2009

� SUREFIRE WAYS TO STAY WARM�MONTANA SKI AREAS FOR ANY BUDGET� GO SNOW CAMPING IN STYLE � SNOWMOBILE SKALKAHO PASS WINTER 2009-10

Cross C

PublisherStacey Mueller

EditorSherry Devlin

ReportersJoe Nickell, Michael Jamison, Will Moss,Michael Moore, Gwen Florio, KeilaSzpaller, Perry Backus, Brett French,Mary Gerber and Eve ByronPhotographersMichael Gallacher, Linda Thompson,Kurt Wilson, Tom Bauer and Will MossPage designJustin Grigg

Copy editorsSherry Devlin, Tyler Christensen andJustin GriggAdvertising salesHolly Kuehlwein can be reached bycalling 523-5223.Mailing addressP.O. Box 8029, Missoula, MT 59807-8029Phone(406) 523-5240

INSIDETRIED, TRUE WAYSTO START A FIRE By JOE NICKELL

PAGE 5

GO CAMPING IN WHITE WORLDBy MICHAEL JAMISON

PAGE 10

CHAIRLIFTS FOR ANY BUDGETBy BRETT FRENCH and MARY GERBER

PAGE 28

ALL IN FAMILY AT GREAT DIVIDEBy EVE BYRON

PAGE 32

FIND ICE CLIMBS WITHIN HOURBy MICHAEL MOORE

PAGE 18

BACKCOUNTRY BITTERROOT RUNSBy WILL MOSS

PAGE 12

SNOWMOBILING ON SKALKAHO PASSBy PERRY BACKUS

PAGE 24

WARM UP WITHDRINKS FOR WINTER By KEILA SZPALLER ............................................PAGE 22

STAY UPRIGHT ON WINTER WALKSBy MICHAEL MOORE ..........................................PAGE 17

BOOKS PROVIDE INDOOR ADVENTUREBy GWEN FLORIO................................................PAGE 20

4 WINTER 2009-10 MONTANA ADVENTURER

Winter 2009-10Montana Adventurer is a quarterly publication of the Missoulian.

MONTANA ADVENTURER WINTER 2009-10 5

By JOE NICKELLof the Missoulian

I was in trouble before I even realized I was gettingcold. It was opening day of hunting season, and I hadspent the early morning hours hiking through snowhigh up a mountain ridge, intent on reaching a saddlewhere I’d often seen elk passing through on the waybetween their evening feeding area and daylight beds.Having gotten a rather late start, I had pushed hard up

the mountain, sweating in my light camouflagejacket. The weather report hadn’t told me to expectsuch low temperatures, but my pounding heart as Ihiked kept me plenty warm. I didn’t even bothertaking my gloves out of my backpack.

Arriving at my intended destination, I stopped on arocky outcropping and slowly scanned the woodsahead with my binoculars. Through the trees, I could

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

A thermite fire-starter offered by DBC Pyrotechnics of Portland, Ore., provides a 30-second burst of flame at 4,500 degrees,enough to “ignite a fire in three feet of snow or pouring rain,” according to the company.

See STARTS, Page 6

Surefire startsReporter’s tried, true methods for sparking flames

see perhaps 200 yardsalong the saddle andpartway down both sides ofthe ridge. My mind bentoutward, analyzing everyspot of brown. My breathcalmed.

Suddenly, I realized thatmy bare hands had becomevery cold. I suffer from acondition called Reynaud’sSyndrome, which basicallymeans that my bodysometimes overreacts tocold, shutting downcirculation to myextremities, as it wouldnormally do in cases ofnear-death hypothermia.Usually when this happensto me, I can sense it’scoming and find ways towarm my hands. But onthis day, by the time I

noticed my fingers werecold, they were alreadystarting to turn white asthe blood drained fromthem.

I dropped my backpackand began pulling out myextra warm clothes andgloves. It was too late. My

hands were already frozenstiff. I began toinvoluntarily shiver.

Abandoning all thoughtof elk, I began breaking drybranches from the treesaround me, building asmall tangle of kindling onthe snow. I again opened

my pack, and pulled outone of the tiny Bic lightersthat I typically carried withme in the woods.

But my fingers wouldn’tgrip the lighter – much lessoverride the child-prooffeature. Only after longminutes of fruitlessfumbling did I manage tolight the lighter, bywedging it between mywrist and my chest withone hand, lighting it withthe thumb of my otherhand.

Twenty minutes later, aroaring fire at my feet, Ishook my head.

“Joe, you idiot,” Ichastised myself out loud.“You of all people shouldbe better prepared thanthis.”

That scare last autumn


Fire Lighters consistently lit fires in snowy conditions.

StartsContinued from Page 5

See STARTS, Page 7

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was the worst attack ofReynaud’s that I’veexperienced, but I’m hardlyalone in my vulnerability toMontana’s cold. Fivepercent of adult men and 8percent of women sufferfrom Reynaud’s Syndrome,according to theFramingham Heart Study, along-term cardiovascularsurvey conducted eversince 1948 in Framingham,Mass.

But even those whodon’t suffer fromReynaud’s can easily findthemselves in need ofwarmth, and fast: Anaccidental slip into an icycreek can quickly causepotentially fatalhypothermia in even themost “warm-blooded”

outdoorsman.So when I returned to

civilization that night, Iresolved not to head backinto the woods until I hadequipped myself with afoolproof fire-starting kit.

But what to include inthat kit? Surfing theInternet over the course ofseveral evenings, I foundmyself adrift in a dizzyingsea of advice, much of itdriven by principles otherthan those that motivatedme. Some hardcoreoutdoorsmen swore by theclassic flint and steel as theonly foolproof fire-starter.I read long treatises on theeven more labor-intensivetechniques involved inusing a traditional frictionbow. The morepyromaniacally inclinedengaged in games ofexplosive one-upmanship– discussing the merits of

signal flares, white gas andthe like – on chat forumswhere actual hikers andactive outdoorspeopleseemed conspicuouslyabsent.

Despite the dead-endsand questionable advice,the exercise helped menarrow my focus. What Isought was a compact,lightweight igniter andtinder kit – something thatwould allow me to start afire in snow and possiblyrain, possibly in wind,possibly with wood thatwasn’t bone-dry. Oh, and itneeded to require littledexterity, in case myfingers were frozen.

The problem is, manyoptions exist that coversome of those bases, butvery few cover them all.Roadside signal flares, forexample, burn very hot andplenty long enough to start

a fire; but they’re bulky,and the chemicals involvedare pretty nasty. Liquidfuels and gases take up a lotof space, and if they leak,your pack is basicallyruined.

A guy by the name ofHerman Jansen ofDamiansville, Ill., hasreceived a U.S. patent for a“portable, fused essentiallywaterproof campfire ...entirely surrounded by aclear combustible materialsuch as shrink wrap and ahandle is attached,” but Icouldn’t find acommercially availableversion, much less imaginefitting one into in mybackpack.

One oddball option,however, did catch myattention: a thermite fire-starter offered by DBC


See STARTS, Page 8

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“I put my research and development guy on it, and he figured it out. ... When he sent it back to me andI lit the fuse on the first one, I just about had kittens. It seriously works, and it has proven to bereliable. It’s not cheap, but if you’re in the middle of winter and you’ve got wet timber, it’s a guarantee.”

– Rian Smith, owner of DBC Pyrotechnics, on thermite fire-starter


Pyrotechnics of Portland,Ore. Very small andreasonably light at just 3ounces, the canisters ofthermite (a blend of metalpowder and metal oxide)allegedly provided a 30-second burst of flameburning at 4,500 degrees,enough to “ignite a fire inthree feet of snow orpouring rain,” according tothe company.

I called owner RianSmith to chat about hisinvention. He said he cameupon the inspiration afterwatching workers weldrailroad tracks near hishouse using thermite.

“The problem,” saidSmith, “was how to start it;nobody seemed to knowhow to light it withoutusing a torch. So I put myresearch and developmentguy on it, and he figured itout. ... When he sent itback to me and I lit the fuseon the first one, I just abouthad kittens. It seriouslyworks, and it has proven tobe reliable. It’s not cheap,but if you’re in the middleof winter and you’ve gotwet timber, it’s aguarantee.”

Indeed, it’s not cheap:$8.95 for the one-time-usefire-starters. Nevertheless,I ordered four.

I then took a run aroundMissoula’s outdoorequipment stores, where Ipicked up an array of fire-starting products, from a$2.89 box of waterproofmatches, to a $39.95

Brunton windproof butanelighter. I also grabbed anumber of commerciallyavailable tinders, includingsticks made of wax andsawdust, a tube of so-called fire paste, and cubesof WetFire Tinder.

Over the course of thehunting season, I tested thevarious products. As Isuspected, some of thetraditional techniques fellshort of my self-

established standards.Shaved magnesiumproduced an intense burstof fire when ignited with aflint-and-steel spark, butthe shaving process wastime-consuming, the flintand steel required moredexterity than my frozenfingers might offer and theburst of heat wasn’t long-lasting. If the actualorganic tinder wasn’t fairlydry and very carefullypositioned in relation to

the magnesium shavings, itwouldn’t ignite – and thewhole shaving processwould have to be repeated.

The flint and steel hadeven more trouble ignitingthe WetFire Tinder cubes,as well as the WaterproofTinder Cubes marketed byCoughlan.

A company calledUltimate SurvivalTechnologies offers a flint-and-steel fire-startercalled the Little Sparkie,which it says “can beoperated with one handand start your fire even inthe most adverse weatherconditions.” But LittleSparkie mostly justproduced a few sparks; ittook precious minutes (andsome dexterity) to ignitesynthetic tinders, and Inever did manage to get itto ignite even the driestorganic tinder.

Waterproof matchesproved much more reliableand required less dexterityto produce an initial flamethat would light organictinder, tinder cubes or firepaste. Even better – thoughundoubtedly bulkier – areCoughlan’s Fire Lighters,which are basically a tinderstick with an enormousmatch head on one end.Though hardly windproof,the sticks consistently litfires in snowy conditionswithout much hassle.

Some people swear byhigh-end butane lighterslike Brunton’s FirestormLighter; other people swearat them. If you believe themarketing, these small,



“I feel much safer now, knowing that a warm campfire isonly moments away, no matter the conditions,” says reporterJoe Nickell.

See STARTS, Page 9

MONTANA ADVENTURER

lightweight lightersproduce a flame that’s sohot, you often can’t evensee it – even in winds up to80 mph. Another bonus,for me: The larger controlsand lack of childproofingmake it easy to use. Thedownside: They’re fickle,particularly in coldtemperatures and at highaltitudes – precisely theconditions where I mostoften hunt. At 40 bucks,the Firestorm isn’t cheap(and other models are evenpricier); ultimately, whileI’ll keep it in my pack, I’llnever go without a backupsource of flame.

As to commerciallyavailable tinders, I foundthat the WetFire Tinder andCoughlan’s WaterproofTinder Cubes burned aboutequally long (severalminutes) at about the same(low) intensity. Both alsoclaim to burn in rain; theWetFire Tinder even burnswhile floating in water. Ofthe two, the WetFire Tindercubes were far easier to use;the Waterproof TinderCubes required workingthem between your fingersfirst. Coughlan’s Fire Pasteworked somewhat better;when applied liberally, iteven managed to ignitemedium-sized stickswithout the need for othertinder. But the bulky metaltube was a drawback. All ofthose products werevulnerable to beingextinguished by a moderatewind, but they weatheredbetter, generally, thanorganic tinder.

Predictably, the thermitefire-starters stood in a classby themselves. Equippedwith a short fuse andcontained within a lidded

plastic canister (which youmust burn, alas), the fire-starter fit easily in my smallemergency kit. The productactually flips fire-startingupside down: Smithrecommends setting thecanister atop (rather thanunderneath) the organicmaterial you intend to light,because the thermitereaction produces white-hot molten iron that willflow down and igniteanything beneath it.

The first time I used one,I simply placed it atop alarge, snow-covered log, litthe fuse and stepped back.The intense heat ignited thedense log within seconds.The second time I used one,it fell off the log as it wasigniting. The molten ironburned a holeapproximately 5 inchesdeep into the soil. As withgas-fired welding torches,you shouldn’t look at thesethings while they’reburning, lest you burn yourretina.

In the end, I foundmyself with a much morereliable – and scarcelybulkier – fire-starting kit inmy pack: a couple ofCoughlan Fire Lightersticks, a handful of WetFireTinder cubes, the Bruntonlighter, and – for extremesituations – one thermitefire-starter.

None of those, of course,replace the obvious adviceto dress warmly (and wearmy dang gloves) in the firstplace. But I feel much safernow, knowing that a warmcampfire is only momentsaway, no matter theconditions.

Reporter Joe Nickell canbe reached at 523-5358,[email protected] on NickellBag.com.


221 East Front St. • 543-6966

M–F 9:30–8 • SAT 9–6 • SUN 11–6

www.trailheadmontana.net

Sometimes changing yourSometimes changing your

Vantage PointVantage Point

Is what you need to change YourIs what you need to change Your

PerspectivePerspective

Climbing • Hiking • Rafting • Kayaking

By MICHAEL JAMISONof the Missoulian

Morning came crystal clear, and cold, but not justany kind of cold – a razor-sharp cold that bit to thecore, cold enough to freeze your nostrils shut, and theworld was absolutely silent.

Silent except for the groan and growl of super-frozen ice on the lake, crackling beneath an arcticstillness. Silent except for the occasional gunshotcrack of trees popping in winter air.

Silent, finally, except for the squeak of powderysnow underfoot, announcing that Bill had roused

from his sleeping bag.“It’s cold,” he muttered.“Twenty-one below,” my wife answered.“You know,” Bill offered, “if it were 53 degrees

warmer, it’d be freezing.”Bill has a unique perspective.The creak of boots, the hurried zzzzip of zippers,

the clatter of skis, metal bindings whining in thefrost, sunlight everywhere, blazing on pillows ofwhite.

During the summer months, this lake is thronged

MICHAEL JAMISON/Missoulian

With the right equipment and preparation, winter camping can offer quiet and solitude not available in other seasons.

See WHITE, Page 11

The white lifeCamping can continue in wide world of winter


with campers – kids anddogs and scoldinggrandmothers,Winnebagos and SUVs andmotorboats. Picnickers.

But not today. Not inJanuary. Even the bugs haveabandoned the whiteseason.

That’s why we’re here.For the quiet. For theskiing. For the chance tovisit a familiar place from anew perspective. Bill’sperspective, here so farbelow freezing. To crosslowlands too swampy totravel in summer, now hardas ice, and to explore thebeyond.

In winter, the greeneryis stripped away, and youcan see straight through tothe bones of this forest,branches bared and castinga spider’s web of shadows.

There, an owl’s wingtipsbrushed the snow, and avole’s track suddenlystopped. There, a wolfcrossed the icy outlet.There, deer walked circlesamong thickets of willow.

These are winter’sstories, writ large.

If someone mentionswinter camping and yourfirst question is “Why?”then you probablyshouldn’t bother. But ifyour question is “How?”then start gathering gear.

Gather skis andsnowshoes, and a goodavalanche shovel, and apuffy down sleeping bagwith a home-sewn silkliner. Mukluks and hats andmitts and a frying pan.

Yes, a frying pan. Justfill it with snow (ice isalways better, if you canfind it), melt it all down,leave it out overnight and

pop loose the ice-diskcome tomorrow morning.

It makes a great windowfor your snow cave, onceyou’ve cut a hole with thetail of your ski. But be sureto spill a little water inbefore you start meltingthat snow, or you’ll scorchyour pans.

Drinking water won’tfreeze overnight if you putthe bottles in the bottom ofyour sleeping bag, or betteryet bury them deep into thefloor of the snow cave. Justremember to mark the spotwith a stick.

Sticks are handy, too,when building the snow

cave – lop off several abouta foot long and poke themthrough from the outside,so you’ll know how thickthe walls are whenexcavating the interior.

Later, those sticks makefine coat racks. Hat racks.Pot racks.

Split-level snow caves,snow caves with icy stairsleading to “lofts,” snowcaves strung withChristmas garlands, citiesof snow caves linked byunderground tunnels. Thegood life. The subniveanlife. Wintertime glamping.Igloo living.

We like to carve lots of

nooks and crannies inside,for storage and candleshelves, and generally sleephigh and dry on packedsnow benches that line thewalls.

Snow, in fact, makesgreat furniture. It’s flexible.You can carve lounge chairsand post-modern tables,sculpt trench kitchensroofed in plastic, mold bedspersonalized to your curves,complete with pillows.

Dig a shallow pit, lineit with a black plastic bag,ring it with fresh snow andwhen you return from aday’s skiing the winter sunwill have melted you a finepond of cooking water.

Or, if you have to heatwater over a camp stove, themousepad from your officemakes a great base to keepthe stove from meltingdown into the drift.

An avalanche shovel digsa pit, and then morphs intoa seat, a backrest, a snowanchor to stake out tent ortarp. A Zippo works betterthan Bic in the cold, a“windmill” torch evenbetter.

Coffee filters straindebris from melted snow. Agallon freezer bag, filledwith snow, makes a finedeadman in drifts wherestakes won’t grab – and youcan use it later towaterproof your pack fromleaky bottles.

A hat on your head keepsyour feet warmer. Really.Staying warm and dry iseasier than getting warmand dry. Wind is worse thancold. Mittens beat gloves,and the mitten string yourmom ran down your sleevesin first grade was a goodidea.

Watch for colorful sundogs, and shining sunpillars, and marvel at wind-

MICHAEL JAMISON/Missoulian

The world grows larger in the winter, as impenetrableforests become wide white thoroughfares with nature’ssignposts to show the way.

WhiteContinued from Page 10

See WHITE, Page 16


By WILL MOSSRavalli Republic

HAMILTON – A wise old rockclimber once told me that, when itcomes to getting outdoors in theBitterroot Mountains, it’s“probably not very safe to claimthat you were the first to doanything.”

I think about that sometimes,when I’m out in the snow, highabove the creeks and canyons thatdefine the Bitterroot Range’sunique and puzzlingly logicalarray.

What it means to me is thatthere is a definitive and neartangible allure to this dramaticlandscape; a stalwart value soinnate that it has drawn seekers ofadventure, exploration andsolitude since long before I or eventhat old climber first laid eyes onit.

As a snowboarder, I wasoriginally drawn to the Bitterroot’sshadow by an appreciation for therural and easy-going nature of thelocal ski hill – not to mention thequality and quantity of snow.

For years, those long, cold dayson the slopes and fire-lit eveningswith good friends and strong, localbeer gave to me most all that Iwanted from these old hills.

Eventually, however, there camea time when I found myself staringdeep into the range’s westwardcanyons, far back into the heart ofthe Bitterroots where massive

WILL MOSS/Ravalli Republic

The great thing about winterrecreation in the Bitterroot Mountainsis access. If you can see it, you canski it.


See TURNS, Page 13

Bitterroot turnsRange provides plenty of runs for skiers, snowboarders


jagged sentinels of rock, iceand snow beckoned me toexplore, dared even, as Iknow they have so manyothers.

That feeling, naggingand ever-present yetexciting and whollyaddictive, can be a difficultone to shake.

Not that you’d want to, Isuppose.

It’s a feeling that hasdriven me to great lengthsover the last few years,from sacrificing my limitedtime and very limitedwealth to jeopardizing mysafety and a relationship ortwo.

With that said, I’vefound more value and self-revelation through myexperiences in thesemountains than in anyschool or church, and Ihope that theunpredictable weave ofconverging fibers thatcomprises my path throughlife allows me to continuethis affair.

The great thing aboutwinter recreation in theBitterroots is the access. Toa degree, if you can see it,you can ski it.

The long and mostlygentle western rise of therange’s 30-or-soprominent ridge lines fromthe valley floor provides forfast and easy approaches toan almost unquantifiableselection of bowls,couloirs, broad faces androlling aprons.

Once you begin tounderstand how it allworks, the possibilities canalmost be overwhelming;to really “ski theBitterroots” would take a

lifetime or more.Luckily, there are a few

well-known descents thatcan allow you to put afeather in your cap and feellike you’ve gotten a well-rounded perspective onbackcountry skiing andsnowboarding in thesemountains. As always, besure that you have theproper equipment,knowledge and preparationto safely make it back to thevalley floor before you headfor the hills.

West ForkComprising a large

portion of the southern endof the range, the signaturepeaks and drainages thatfeed the West Fork of theBitterroot River providedramatic and challengingski descents that rival someof the country’s more well-known backcountrydestinations.

One of the area’shighlights is the dramaticTrapper Peak complex, thenamesake of which standsas the Bitterroot’s highestsummit at 10,157 feet.

For all its spire-likeprominence, access to thearea is relatively simple andnon-technical, dependingon the chosen route. Thesimplest path to the mainpeak is the Trapper PeakTrail which starts fromForest Road 5630A andsteadily climbs 3,800 feetin about four miles,delivering you to the longsaddle that drops east fromthe main peak.

From this point, skiershave the option ofdescending the longridgeline back toward thetrailhead, or tackling any ofa number of technicalcouloirs that fall (quitesteeply) into the TrapperCreek drainage to the

north. The latter advancedroutes require skiers toeither climb back towardthe saddle or exit throughthe Trapper Creekdrainage.

Skiers can also approachthe complex via the BakerLake Trail, which meandersthrough a chain of threelakes ending in the GemLake basin.

Winter access to thesetrailheads is limited bysnowpacked roads, thoughcommitted skiers with theright equipment can makeit in and out in a day. Thearea provides excellentspring access with somenorth-facing areas holdingskiable snowpack throughthe summer.

Central BitterrootsThe swath of peaks and

canyons that stretch to thewest between Darby andHamilton offers a nearlyunquantifiable selection ofdramatic ascents anddescents to any skierwilling to make a day (ormore) of it.

West of Darby lies TinCup Canyon, a narrowdrainage that ends at TinCup Lake about 11 milesfrom the trailhead. Skierswill find numerousdescents along the route,including the Como Peaksand Kerlee Lake bench,which lie along thecanyon’s north wall, as wellas a series of undulatingmini-drainages to thesouth and east of Tin CupLake itself.

To the north lies ComoLake and the Rock Creekand Little Rock Creekdrainages, either of whichmake great day excursionsfor skiers looking to get outinto a dramatic landscapethat offers anoverwhelming selection of

bowls, aprons and otherskiable terrain frommellow, low-angle powderfields to the ultra-technicaleast face of El Capitan.

Farther down the valleyis Lost Horse Canyon, longa favored destination ofsnowmobilers looking toget way back into the rangevia the 15-mile road toTwin Lakes near the Idahoborder. Grab a ride on afriend’s sled and take yourpick of fresh lines thatdescend from the westerncanyon’s north wall.

As you head farthernorth toward Hamilton, theridgelines of the Bitterrootsbegin ending in broad facesthat slope eastward downto the valley floor creatingfor easy, direct ascents andexcellent, sustaineddescents with littleapproach. Foremost amongthese is the eastern slope of9,100-foot WardMountain, which lies justsouthwest of Hamilton andis accessed from theRoaring Lion Creektrailhead.

Due west of Hamiltonlies Downing Mountain andthe iconic avalanche paththat runs from its falsepeak. With stable snowconditions, this 2,000-foot-plus chute canprovide world-classpowder turns in a half-dayexcursion. Skiers lookingfor a weekend getawaythat’s close to town shouldcheck out the DowningMountain BackcountrySnowsports Lodge, whichsits at about 5,500-feet,near the chute’s terminus.

Northern BitterrootsFrom Hamilton

northward, the Bitterroot’seastern exposures fall into a

TurnsContinued

See TURNS, Page 16

DECEMBERSaturday, December 19

RUST (Rails Under the Stars)

Where: Big Sky

Contact: www.bigskyresort.com

Ski & Photos with Santa

Where: Showdown Ski Area, Neihart

Contact: www.showdownmontana.com

Holiday Candlelight Tour of Lewis & Clark Caverns

Where: Whitehall

Contact: [email protected]

Tuesday, December 29

Christmas Cruise

Where: Whitefi sh

Contact: www.skiwhitefi sh.com

Thursday, December 31

New Year’s Eve Rockin’ Rail Jam and Torchlight

Parade

Where: Whitefi sh


New Year’s Eve Run/Party

Where: Bozeman

Contact: www.winddrinkers.org

JANUARYFriday, January 1

New Year Snowmobile Poker Run

Where: Lincoln


Friday, January 8

Flathead Sled Dog Days (through Jan 10)

Where: Whitefi sh

Contact: http://fl atheadsleddogdays.com

Friday, January 15

30th Annual Montana PRCA Pro Rodeo Circuit

Finals (through Jan 17)

Where: Great Falls

Contact: www.mtexpopark.com

Saturday, January 16

Annual Ski Fest (through Jan 17)

Where: Essex

Contact: Contact: [email protected]

Friday, January 29

Great Rockies Sportshow (through Jan 31)

Where: Bozeman

Contact: http://greatrockiesshow.com

Saturday, January 30

Moonlight Snowmobile Poker Run

Where: Lincoln


ADVENTURE

!

!

❄

❄

Frost Fever/5K Fun Run

Where: Missoula

Contact: www.missoulaparks.org

FEBRUARYSaturday, February 6

Dummy Jump

Where: Big Sky

Contact: www.bigskyresort.com

Saturday, February 13

Cruise the Blues

Where: Whitefi sh


Sunday, February 14

100-Mile Snowmobile Poker Run

Where: White Sulpher Springs


Thursday, February 18

35th Annual Northern Rodeo Association Finals

(through Feb 20)

Where: Billings

Contact: 406-252-1122

Saturday, February 20

Scholarship/Charity Snowmobile Poker Run

Where: Lincoln


MARCHFriday, March 12

Great Rockies Sportshow (through Mar 14)

Where: Kalispell

Contact: Contact: http://greatrockiesshow.com

World Snowmobile Expo (through Mar 14)

Where: West Yellowstone

Contact: http://snowmobileexpo.com

List your competition

406.523.5223

[email protected]

❄CALENDAR

!

❄

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Legend

Run

Ski/Snowboard

Sled Dog Race

Other

Snowmobile

Rodeo

❄!

A ROCKY MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AWAITS

YOU!• Lodging

• Meals• Guided

Snowmobiling

1-406-677-2317 or 1-800-532-4350

WWW.RICHRANCH.COM

RICH RANCHSeeley Lake, Montana


repetitive pattern of facesand canyons. Pick a facefrom Mill to Gash or LittleSt. Joseph, and startclimbing. Or choose acanyon like Blodgett, Bear,Kootenai or Sweeney,follow the creek west andpick almost any of theminiature drainages thatextend to the north orsouth. All offer sublimehalf-day or full-day tripswith countless options forgreat skiing.

West of Stevensville liesiconic St. Mary Peak at justover 9,300 feet. From thepeak, a saddle slings low tothe southeast sheltering anorth-facing bowl. Accessto this ridge is easy andquick (depending on howfar you can make it up theroad to the trailhead in thewinter). Climbing west, upthe saddle toward the peak,will reveal a number ofgreat short descents intothe bowl and a notch risingfrom a small lake provides aquick climb back to thesaddle. This is another

great spot for spring skiing.At the northern end of

the Bitterroot Range liesLolo Peak – one of the onlyBitterroot peaks visiblefrom Missoula (thoughmost of the valley actuallysees the false north peak).

Lolo Peak has long beena favorite destination forMissoulians looking to getout on a quick day in thebackcountry. Primaryaccess to the peak area canbe found by taking U.S.Highway 12 west from Loloand turning south onMormon Peak Road. Fromthe parking lot, skiers canclimb the north wall ofCarlton Ridge and thendescend down the otherside into the Carlton Lakebasin. The lake lies at thefoot of the 9,100-foot peakat about 7,800 feet andprovides a great base formaking a few laps.

Given the rightequipment, knowledge andconditions, thepossibilities for skiing theBitterroot backcountry arebasically endless. Asalways, it’s best to set outwith a partner who knowsthe area you intend toexplore, and it’s crucial

that all backcountry skiersoutfit themselves with theproper safety equipment,including an avalanchebeacon, probe and shovel,and the knowledge to usethem properly and to

recognize safe and unsafesnow conditions.

Reporter Will Moss canbe reached at 363-3300 orat [email protected].

sculpted sastrugi. If youdon’t see any, say it anyway.It’s a good word.

Rocks, heated in a fireand dropped into a coveredcook pot, make a welcomespace heater. An old camproll taped to a stick makes adoor. A ski pole through theroof makes a chimney.

A sled carries gear andprovides endless fun. It alsoserves to haul snow out ofthe hole while digging the

cave. On a windy and frozenlake, two ski poles, a roll ofduct tape and a small tarpcombine to make a greatsail.

Water freezes from thetop down, so drop waterbottles into your packupside down, and the lidswon’t freeze shut. An olddown coat or a closed-cellsleeping pad can be cut intoa “cozy” for your waterbottle. And there’s no suchthing as too many extrasocks.

A warm water bottle inyour ski boots at night

makes morning brighter.Days are short, nights arelong, and headlampbatteries last longer if youkeep them warm. Books andcards are good. So’s aharmonica, or a cribbageboard. Bring a chestnut, androast it on an open fire. Ornot.

It’s dark at 5 p.m., so skiunder the moon.

The world, contrary topopular belief, does notshrink each winter to thearea lit by your hearth. Infact, the world grows larger,as impenetrable forests

become wide, whitethoroughfares, completewith nature’s sign posts toshow the way.

Just ask Bill. It might be53 degrees below thefreezing mark, but there hegoes, up and over the ridge,breath puffing like a steamengine and his internalheater kicking on high.

Now that’s perspective.

Reporter MichaelJamison can be reached at1-800-366-7186 or [email protected].

WhiteContinued from Page 11

TurnsContinued from Page 13

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By MICHAEL MOOREof the Missoulian

Every year, cool newstuff bursts onto the winterlandscape.

Snowboards, skis,bindings, ice axes,snowshoes, you name it.

Undoubtedly, all areeminently spectacular andthe fact that I do withoutmost of them is a wonder.

The deal with the yearlyemergence of new wintergear is that most of it is justlike last year’s gear. Sure,sweeping changes comealong every once in a while– next to nobody wants togo back to straight skis afterskiing on shaped boards.

And nobody who’s everswung an ice ax at a frozenwaterfall wants to use astraight ax for technicalclimbing again.

But most year-to-yearchanges are decidedlyincremental. A better use ofcarbon, or a lighter laminatesandwich in a ski.

Which is not to saythey’re totally unnecessary,but odds are you’ll livewithout them.

That said, Kahtoola’sMicroSpikes may becompletely indispensable.They’re not entirely new,but they’re not that easy tofind locally either, so

discovering them is a bit likefinding that the last presentunder the Christmas tree –the one with no one’s nameon it – is intended for you.

MicroSpikes are a crossbetween Yaktrax and full-on crampons. Sort ofcrampon lite. They’re notwhat you want if yourwinter running takes youover a lot of bare pavement,

but if you’re going off-road,they’re the bomb.

For anyone who’s evertaken off for the summit ofMount Sentinel on awinter’s day, MicroSpikeswere built for you.

Like Yaktrax and theless-good and nowdiscontinued Kako IceTrekker, the Spikes slip overmost any shoe with a rubberring – technically it’s calleda “shoe harness.”

The Spikes come in foursizes, and from what I cantell you’re better off to gowith the tightest possiblefit. That leaves little roomfor slippage.

Unlike Yaktrax, which Ialso like, the Spikes featurea stainless chain and three-eighths-inch spikes. TheYaktrax, by way ofcomparison, involves arubber core wrapped in aspringy coil.

I’ve found the Yaktraxuseful on flat trails, but onmore precarious terrain,they tend to roll a bit. TheSpikes have no suchproblem.

In fact, I’d be inclined towear MicroSpikes nearlyanywhere I’d wearcrampons, other thantechnical ice and hardcoremountaineering.

They’re super-light andwill fit on just about anyshoe, from trail runners toSorels. They also can befolded up tightly enough tofit in a jacket pocket.

Unlike crampons, they’reeasy to walk with and poseno danger to the inside ofyour calves.

Given all that, I’ve putthese babies on myChristmas list.

It’s possible that K2’snew, top-of-the-linesnowboard may have someadvantage over myZeppelin, but it’s probablynot a difference I’d notice.

MicroSpikes, however,I’ll notice every time I’mnot slipping on that last bitof precarious trail at the topof Sentinel.

Reporter Michael Moorecan be reached at 523-5252

or at [email protected].

TRY THE SPIKESCheck out Kahtoola’sMicroSpikes atwww.kahtoola.com/microspikes.html. Cost is$59.

Spikes keep you walking on slick, snowy terrain


By MICHAEL MOOREof the Missoulian

Last Christmas, amid the clatter of reindeerhooves and fat men in the chimney, we had ourselvesa strange and ultimately wonderful moment wherein Ireceived a new K2 snowboard from my loving family.

Ordinarily, such a gift would be met with openarms and anxious feet. But the fact was, I’d justbought a new snowboard the season before – adevelopment known to my sweetie but somehowoverlooked – and didn’t need another.

The question then immediately became whatmight be an acceptable swap. Despite her reluctanceto contribute to my preference for extreme sports,Jakki wound up giving me new technical ice tools,

which was great, as I was climbing on ancient tools.Note, I am not talking about ice axes, by which I

mean long, straight-shafted axes for mountaineering.Ice tools are for vertical ice, the climbing of which

exists on the outer edge of climbing in general.It’s less risky than free soloing on rock – climbing

without a rope – but not by much. The mantra of iceclimbers everywhere is simple – Don’t fall!

The reason is the medium – ice. Some ice is super-solid, and falling on an ice screw sunk in such ice isrelatively safe. Not nearly as safe as falling on a bolt or a cam placed in rock, but not utterly terrifying,either.

But lots of ice is sketchy – climbable but hardly the

ROBIN CARLETON

Most of the ice climbs in western Montana are based on either seeps or waterfalls and are shaped by snowfall and recurringthaw/freeze cycles.

See ICE, Page 19


On ice Cold-weather climbingavailable around Missoula


stuff you’d want to weightwith a fall. Thus the no-fallmaxim.

That goes double forearly season ice,particularly in El Nino-edwestern Montana.

Although most of theclimbing here in westernMontana is based on eitherseeps or waterfalls, iceclimbs are invariablyshaped by snowfall andrecurring thaw/freezecycles.

And that is where we’relacking right now. Some ofthe ice climbs are startingto come “in,” but most arestill a ways off, due in partto lack of snow. They’rejust not fat.

Bozeman, on the otherhand, got hammered byearly season snows andHyalite Canyon, the state’spremier ice-climbingdestination, is off to anincredible start.

A recent post byMontana ice ace JoeJosephson, author of“Winter Dance,” a guide toice climbing in Hyalite andelsewhere, suggests thatjust about the wholecanyon is in good shape.

JoJo recently posted asolid report onMontanaIce.com, and itsounds like conditions setup perfectly for theBozeman Ice Fest.

While rock houndsroutinely debate whetherMissoula or Bozeman isbetter located for rockclimbing, Missoulians haveto cede the ice title to CatCountry. We just don’thave anything thatapproximates either thedensity of climbs or theroutinely better, east-of-

the-Divide conditions inHyalite.

That said, there’s plentyof ice to be had within anhour or so’s drive ofMissoula.

The premier learningarea is Finley Creek, in themountains west of U.S.Highway 93 between Evaroand Arlee. Finley has someclimbs that can be top-roped, taking much of thedanger out of those initialforays up steep ice.

The Swan Slabs on thenorth-facing side ofBlodgett Canyon nearHamilton offer somerelatively easy climbing. Ifthe weather has been cold

for a while, Blodgett Falls,which flows between theNez Perce and Shoshonespires, can be worth theeffort. It’s a three-milehike in, but that generallykeeps roadside climbers atbay. Once you’ve climbedthe falls, there arenumerous trees set up forrappels, so you can top-rope to your heart’scontent.

There’s good climbing atthe far end of Lake Como,as well as up Bear Creek,near Victor. The ice is onthe south-facing side ofBear Creek, so you have tocross the creek then workyour way northwest to

reach the climbs.When it comes to big

ice, Missoula-area climbersturn to Mission Falls,which provides numerousroutes and an arduousapproach. The falls freezessolidly in a run of unbroken cold weather, butit can stay pretty wet untilwinter really hunkersdown.

Once the falls comes in,though, it’s as good as itgets in western Montana.

With the cold tempsthat set in aroundThanksgiving and earlyDecember, westernMontana ice should beshaping up pretty well. TheEl Nino weather patternthat leaves us short onsnow won’t work in ourfavor, but with enoughcold, we’ll be climbingsoon.

Worst case scenario?Head for the ever-dependable Hyalite.

Reporter Michael Moorecan be reached at 523-5252or at [email protected].

ICE ONLINEThe ice-climbingcommunity isn’t huge,but you can keep upwith conditions byworking the Web. Forwestern Montana, trythe Missoulian’s snowblog at www.montanasnowsports.com, thenturn to RobinCarleton’s www.infinitymountain.com.Jim Earl is on top ofHyalite at www.montanaice.com andthe tireless ChrisGibisch keeps uppretty well at chrisgibisch.blogspot.com.

IceContinued from Page 18

ROBIN CARLETON

The mantra for ice climbers everywhere is simple: Don’t fall!

By GWEN FLORIOof the Missoulian

It’s not just “because it’sthere” anymore.

That outlook – it’s theresponse by Britishmountaineer George LeighMallory upon being askedwhy he wanted to climbEverest – could also applyto generations of adventurebooks.

Mallory, who died onEverest a year after utteringwhat some call the mostfamous three words inmountaineering, didn’twrite a book about hisexploits, but plenty of folkswrote books about him, andabout their own feats aswell.

It’s a jam-packed genreon the seemingly singletheme of man (testosteronetends to rule) amid nature.Think Thor Heyerdahl’s“Kon-Tiki,” about crossingthe Pacific on a balsa-woodraft, or Roald Amundson’s“My Life as an Explorer”about his Arctic andAntarctic adventures – notto mention Lewis andClark’s journals.

More recently, there wasthe one-two punch in 1997of Jon Krakauer’s “Into ThinAir,” about a disastrousEverest expedition, andSebastian Junger’s “ThePerfect Storm,” on a killernor’easter off Gloucester,Mass.

All of those books fit theclassic standoff-with-the-elements aspect ofoutdoors/adventurewriting, and that’s nottotally to the genre’sbenefit, said severalMontana writers whosework gets filed in thatcategory.

“It’s an industry now,”said Missoula kayaker DougAmmons (“WhitewaterPhilosophy,” “The Laugh ofthe Water Nymph”).“Although technicallyspeaking people are really,really skilled at telling thesestories, I think the storieslack depth. ... It’s such arote stereotype. Adventuremeans risk, sensation. It’sall (B.S.).”

The result, said TimCahill of Livingston, is “theunderlying message of the

book is that ‘I can climb thismountain and you can’t.’ ”

This gentle rebuke, mindyou, from someone whosework includes “JaguarsRipped My Flesh” and “AWolverine is Eating myLeg.”

Despite his mockingtough-guy titles, Cahill setout to do somethingdifferent with those booksand others. As he wrote inhis introduction to “Passthe Butterworms,” his aimwas to change thestereotype of such tales as“directed, apparently, atsemiliterate, semi-sadbachelors interestedprimarily in the ‘nymphos’who, in this genre, seemedto populate the jungles andmountains at the variousends of the earth.”

He was spurred, in part,by a book from 1950s, “AShort Walk in the HinduKush,” by Eric Newby, onethat Cahill calls ahead of itstime in tone.

“He uses humor andself-deprecation,” Cahillsaid, two qualities that havemade his own books

enormously successful.Newby, he said, “had a real,genuine adventure that onecould see one’s own selfhaving and that’s whatmade the book for me.”

Likewise, Cahillrecommends “Shooting theBoh: A Woman’s VoyageDown the Wildest River inBorneo,” Tracy Johnston’saccount of a journey inwhich hot flashes provenearly as distressing asepisodes threatening lifeand limb. “Only a womancould have written thiswonderfully funny book,”Cahill said.

Jon Turk, who divides histime between Darby andFernie, in British Columbia,picked up on that thread.High on his list is MariaCoffey’s “Explorers of theInfinite.”

Turk, who has kayaked,climbed, mountain-bikedand skied in some of theworld’s most remote places,says he’s read adventurebooks for five decades andhas more or less lost hisenthusiasm for the

Snowed in this winter? Take armchair adventure

See ADVENTURE, Page 21


Montana is blessed witha host of authors whosebooks fall into theadventure/outdoors/travelcategory. Here are some oftheir favorite books,including some they readas children:

� “Endurance:Shackleton’s IncredibleVoyage,” Alfred Lansing.This book gets its owncategory because so manypeople recommended it.Conrad Anker, DougAmmons, DavidQuammen. � Doug Ammons,

Missoula (“The Laugh ofthe Water Nymph: AndOther River Stories”):“Almost anything JackLondon writes.” JosephConrad’s “Sea Stories.”Books about Spanishexplorer Lope de Aguirre’sill-fated search for ElDorado.� Conrad Anker,

Bozeman (“The LostExplorer: Finding Malloryon Mt. Everest,” with DavidRoberts). “The Adventuresof Tom Sawyer” and “TheAdventures of HuckleberryFinn,” Mark Twain.

“Mawson’s Will: TheGreatest Polar SurvivalStory Ever Written,”Lennard Bickel and SirEdmund Hillary. “No Picnicon Mount Kenya: A DaringEscape, a Perilous Climb,”Felice Benuzzi – on Italiansoldiers who escaped aBritish prisoner-of-warcamp in East Africa solelyto climb Mount Kenya.� Tim Cahill, Livingston

(“Road Fever”): “RichardHalliburton’s CompleteBook of Marvels.” “A ShortWalk in the Hindu Kush,”Eric Newby. “Shooting theBoh: A Woman’s VoyageDown the Wildest River inBorneo,” Tracy Johnston.� David Quammen,

Bozeman (“Monster ofGod: The Man-Eating

Predator in the Jungles ofHistory and the Mind”): Theworks of Tim Cahill andJon Krakauer. “The Voyageof the Beagle,” CharlesDarwin.� Peter Stark, Missoula

(“The Last Empty Places: APast and Present JourneyThrough the Blank Spotson the American Map,”May 2010): “Coming intothe Country,” JohnMcPhee. “The SnowLeopard,” PeterMatthiessen. EdwardHoagland’s essays. “AShort Walk in the HinduKush,” Eric Newby. “BlueHighways: A Journey intoAmerican,” William LeastHeat-Moon. “In Patagonia,”Bruce Chatwin. Tim Cahill’sbooks.

� Jon Turk (“TheRaven’s Gift: A Scientist, aShaman, and TheirRemarkable JourneyThrough the SiberianWilderness,” January2010): “Explorers of theInfinite: The Secret SpiritualLives of Extreme Athletes –and What They RevealAbout Near-DeathExperiences, PsychicCommunication, andTouching the Beyond,”Maria Coffey. “Forget MeNot: A Memoir,” JenniferLowe-Anker.� And, if that’s not

enough, you can check outNational Geographic’s Top100 adventure books atwww.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/0404/adventure_books.html.

stereotypical chest-thumper.

“But what does seem tobe happening right now isthat there seems to be asub-genre going on ... andmy books fall into thiscategory, of people who goout into the wilderness andcome back with some sortof a spiritual awakening.

“To me, that’s a lot more

interesting than the genrethat says, ‘I did this and I’mbrave and clean andstronger than you are andthis is amazing. ’”

Coffey, whose partnerdied on Everest, subtitledher book: “The SecretSpiritual Lives of ExtremeAthletes – and What TheyReveal About Near-DeathExperiences, PsychicCommunication, andTouching the Beyond.” Turklikened her book to thisyear’s “Forget Me Not: A

Memoir,” by Jennifer Lowe-Anker, whose husband,climber Alex Lowe, waskilled by a 1999 avalanchein Tiber. Jennifer latermarried his friend, ConardAnker, injured in the sameaccident.

“A beautiful classic,”Turk called that book.

As with Coffey’s work,the subtitle tells muchabout Turk’s new book,“The Raven’s Gift: AScientist, A Shaman, andTheir Remarkable Journey

Through the SiberianWilderness,” coming out inJanuary.

“It’s about spiritualconnection,” said Turk, ofhis repeated travels to meetwith a shaman in Siberia. Asa result of those meetings,he said, “I travel differently.I’m traveling alone now, I’mtraveling in extremeenvironments but with atotally different head spaceabout them and it’s beenabsolutely wonderful.”

FOR ARMCHAIR TRAVELERS

AdventureContinued

See ADVENTURE, Page 23


By KEILA SZPALLERof the Missoulian

Even the fluffiest powderdoesn’t mean you can skiout there forever.

You need breaks, warm-ups, and the tastiest hottoddies. There’s Swedishmulled wine, Castillian hotcocoa, and a favoritesummer drink dressed upfor winter.

The last suggestion is ahot cup made with FireflyVodka, a suggestion fromYoung’s Market Co. liquorrep Mollie Wackler.

“People are making it athome because the Fireflyseason ended, so they’retrying to find different waysto drink it because they loveit so much,” Wackler said.

See, Firefly is a sweetvodka that’s flavored likeiced tea. It was popular inthe summertime, and it’sgetting special treatmentfor the wintertime.

“They’re taking Fireflywith hot water and they’resqueezing lemon in it,”Wackler said.

Sounds almostfrighteningly healthy. If youlike something a little morecreamy, say, hot chocolatethat resembles drinkablepudding, try cooking upthis recipe. It’s from“Vegetarian Epicure, BookTwo,” and a favorite ofMissoulian city editorGwen Florio.

1/2 cup unsweetenedpowdered cocoa

1 cup sugar7 teaspoons cornstarch

(cornflour)1/2 cup water4 cups milk

1. Mix the cocoa and

sugar together.2. Dissolve the

cornstarch (cornflour) inthe water and combine withthe cocoa-sugar mixture ina medium-sized saucepan.Stir this until it is a smoothpaste.

3. Begin heating thismixture, continuouslystirring it with a whisk.Gradually pour in the milk.Continue stirring as youbring it to a simmer.

4. Simmer, stirringoften, for about 10 minutes.The cocoa is ready when itthickens and is glossy andsmooth.

There’s no step 5, but itmust be this: Enjoy. Repeat.Repeat. Etc.

If you’d rather havesomeone else magicallycreate your hot chocolate,head to Posh Chocolat. Youcan warm your hands andtummy for $4 on a cup ofthick cocoa, and even if youwant to, you’ll never have tocook this one yourself.

“It’s the shop’s secretrecipe, and the shop isn’table to divulge all itssecrets,” said Posh’sChristine Tharp.

Swedish glögg, ormulled wine, is a favorite ofMissoulian photographerLinda Thompson, a Swedeherself. Here are explicitinstructions fromThompson:

Glögg is a Swedishmulled wine that is usuallyserved in small coffee cups.(A little goes a long way.)The drink is usually servedwith sides of sliveredalmonds, and raisins. Theyare like glögg condimentsand go in the drink.

This recipe is based onone from the book “Var SåGod: Heritage and FavoriteRecipes/HandbookSwedish Traditions” by theAmerican Swedish Institutein Minneapolis. I have madesome changes.

Swedish-AmericanGlögg by Charles Nelson,adapted by me. (Theoriginal calls for all of thebourbon AND a fifth ofRock and Rye, whateverthat is!)

1 gallon red wine (I use ashiraz or cabernetsauvignon). Cheap is fine,as it gets heavily spiced.

1 fifth of bourbon orblended whiskey OR usevodka as alternative.

1/2 cup to 1 cup sugar – abit more can be added totaste if necessary.

In a cheese cloth,combine the following andmake into bundle:

3 to 6 sticks cinnamon1/3 cup dried orange

peels1 to 2 tablespoons

chopped ginger, preferablyin chunks, not ground

Peels from 1 washedorange

Make a second bundlewith the following:

12 cardamom pods12 cloves

Pour wine and half of thehard alcohol into a largekettle.

Place on low heat, addspice bundles. Bring themixture to a simmer (DONOT BOIL).

Add the sugar a little at atime to taste, cover, andcontinue to simmer for 10to 20 minutes.

Add rest of hard alcoholto taste – but too much willmake it bitter.

Turn off the burner andlet stand.

Remove the cardamomand cloves bundle (note thecardamom and cloves mustbe removed after cooking asthey affect the taste if left


Warm up with cocoa, glögg

See WARM UP, Page 23

For Missoula’s PeterStark (“Last Breath: TheLimits of Adventure”) thebook that pushed himtoward that space was PeterMathiessen’s “The SnowLeopard.” “I came tounderstand the travelogueas a vehicle for a muchgreater exploration – anintellectual exploration, oran emotional exploration oreven a spiritualexploration.”

For those same reasons,Missoula’s Ammons avoidsmuch modern-dayadventure writing andsticks with classics, such asthe tales of Joseph Conrad,perhaps best known for his“Heart of Darkness.” One ofAmmons’ favorites is ashort story, “Typhoon,”

which contains “thisastonishing description ofthe living, exploding seaand these tiny men in thisvastness, and the depth ofthe psychologicalunderstanding of thepeople facing it. It’s goteverything going for it.”

That same themeunderscores what heattempts to do in his ownwork, “to use these outerjourneys to get to innerjourneys.” All the proceedsfrom sales of Ammons’books support a school inTibet.

As for Jon Turk, he saysthat these days, when hesits down with a book, it’slikely to be something like“Breakfast with Buddha,” anovel about a cookbookwriter who “through asomewhat contrived set ofcircumstances” ends up ona cross-country road trip

with a Zen guru. In itslighthearted way, he said,the novel examines thesame question he takes onin “The Raven’s Gift” –about someone suddenlyfinding himself thrust intoa more spiritual realm.

The same thing ishappening with theadventure book genre, hesaid.

A decade ago, books like“The Perfect Storm” and“Into Thin Air” “talkedabout death and tragedy,but they don’t talk aboutthat spiritual connectivity,”Turk said. “I’m notcriticizing – they’re greatbooks.

“But I think it’s time forthe genre to move on.”

Missoulian city editorGwen Florio can be reachedat 523-5268 or at [email protected].

AdventureContinued from Page 21

in. Other bundle mayremain).

Serve hot in small cupswith raisins and almondsin each cup.

You might serve thiswith ginger snaps, aspiced bread or cardamomrolls – cinnamon buns willdo in a pinch.

The disclaimer frommy mother: The TRUEglögg is more simple – nobourbon and an optionalbit of vodka at the end.

P.S. Make sure youhave a DD. A little goes along way!

Reporter Keila Szpallercan be reached at 523-5262, [email protected] or onMissoulaRedTape.com.

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PERRY BACKUSRavalli Republic

HAMILTON – Dan Thompson has traveled down justabout every snowmobile trail within three hours’ drive ofhis home in the Bitterroot Valley.

To his way of thinking, there’s no place that can touchSkalkaho Pass for its scenery, ease of access and miles ofuntouched snow it offers to those willing to explore.

“The scenery up Cripple Creek is just spectacular,”Thompson said. “On top of that, it provides access intothe Sand Basin area on the Beaverhead-DeerlodgeNational Forest where there are plenty of nice big

undisturbed meadows to play in.“The best part of that area is that it’s not crowded and

it’s beautiful there, too,” he said.In the summertime, travelers take the Skalkaho

Highway from Hamilton to Georgetown Lake as a scenicalternative to the four lanes of Interstate 90.

In the winter, the barricades go up and the roadway isshut down to four-wheeled traffic. During the coldest ofmonths, the views of a frozen Skalkaho Falls, the craggypeaks and deep canyons are reserved for snowmobilersand a few hardy cross-country skiers.

See SCENIC, Page 25


Once winter comes, the Skalkaho Highway from Hamilton to Georgetown Lake is closed to four-wheeled traffic and becomes ascenic paradise for snow machines.

Scenic snowmobilingSkalkaho has miles of trails for snow machines


Snowmobilers canaccess two different trailsystems from the trailhead.

The Skalkaho Pass Areaoffers 26 miles of groomedtrails. From there, openareas and ungroomed trailsoffer a wide variety ofterrain for all skill levels.

The Skalkaho-SleepingChild-Rye Creek Area has32 miles of groomed trails,looping through higherelevations, through aburned area and back to thehead of Rye Creek. The loopcan also be entered from RyeCreek, south of Darby.

On a busy weekend,don’t expect to be therealone.

“It’s a popular place anymore,” Thompson said. “Inthe middle of the season,you might see as many as200 sleds over the weekend.Many of the old-timesnowmobilers won’t gothere because it’s toocrowded for them.”

Those folks might headup to the Lost Horse or LostTrail areas, which both offermany miles of ungroomedtrails to explore.

For groomed travel,Skalkaho Pass is the place togo.

The Bitterroot RiderRunners Snowmobile Clubstarted grooming the trailsin 1987. The very firstgroomer came in the formof a used workhorse Ski-Doo and a small pull-behindgroomer, thanks to MontanaFish, Wildlife and Parks.

That first groomercreated a trail that wasn’tmuch wider than asnowmobile track.

These days, clubvolunteers maneuver ahigh-tech, double-track$100,000-plus groomer up

and over the nearly 8,000-foot pass in 10-hour shiftsto keep the trails smooth.

“With the amount oftraffic we see up there, thetrails would be filled withhuge moguls without thegroomer,” Thompson said.“We all appreciate thevolunteer efforts that makethat possible.”

The 130 or so members ofthe Bitterroot Ridge RunnersClub own the shed thathouses the groomer. Theyalso raised the money topurchase the truck andtrailer used to transport themachine to the trailhead.

The state owns thegroomer and provides thefunding the club needs tooperate it each year.

That money to pay for the

grooming program comesfrom gasoline taxes,registration fees andnonresident permits.

The state’s snowmobilegrooming program datesback to the 1970s, when ahandful of clubs struck adeal with FWP to offer theirtime in exchange forfinancial backing to pay forgroomers and theiroperation.

Today, nearly 30snowmobile clubs receivefunding from the programaround the state. The stateowns about 20 full-sizedgroomers, which are leasedto the clubs.

Every year, the clubsgroom about 4,000 miles oftrail around the state.

Resident snowmobilersspend about $91 million ayear, according to a studycompleted in 2006.Nonresident snowmobilersadd $27.5 million more.

For more informationabout the Skalkaho area,contact:�Bitterroot National

Forest Office, 1801 N. FirstSt., Hamilton, MT 59840,(406) 363-7100.�Darby Ranger District,

Bitterroot National Forest,P.O. Box 388, Darby, MT59829, (406) 821-3913.�Bitterroot Chamber of

Commerce, 105 E. Main St.,Hamilton, MT 59840, (406)363-2400, www.bitterrootvalleychamber.com.�Bitterroot Ridge

Runners Snowmobile Club,P.O. Box 265, Hamilton, MT59840, (406) 360-1509,www.ridgerunners.org.

Ravalli Republic editorPerry Backus can be reachedat 363-3300 or at [email protected].


The Skalkaho Pass area has 26 miles of groomed trails and a variety of open areas andungroomed trails for all skill levels.

ScenicContinued from Page 24

GOING TO SKALKAHOAccess to the Skalkaho snowmobile area is two milessouth of Hamilton, then 15 miles east on SkalkahoHighway.

DECEMBERSunday, December 20

Kick-Out-the-Kinks Benefi t Ski RaceWhere: EssexContact: [email protected]

Thursday, December 31New Year’s Eve Run/Party

Where: BozemanContact: www.winddrinkers.org

JANUARYSaturday, January 9

Community Race Series – Alpine & TelemarkWhere: BozemanContact: www.bridgerbowl.com

Friday, January 15Seeley Lake Sled Dog Race (through Jan 17)

Where: LincolnContact: http://seeleylakedograces.com

Saturday, January 23Seeley Lake Challenge Biathlon

Where: Seeley LakeContact: www.seeleylakechamber.com

Stan Shaefer Memorial Ice Fishing DerbyWhere: DillonContact: [email protected]

Lion’s Club Perch Ice Fishing Derby (through Jan 24)Where: TownsendContact: 406-266-5790

Whitefi sh Whiteout Ski Mountaineering RaceWhere: Whitefi shContact: www.skiwhitefi sh.com

Wednesday, January 27Alpine Evening Race Series Begins

Where: MissoulaContact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Friday, January 29Ski to Win/Randonnee Festival (through Jan 30)

Where: BozemanContact: www.bridgerbowl.com

Saturday, January 30Frost Fever 5K Fun Run

Where: MissoulaContact: www.missoulaparks.org

Ice Fishing Derby (through Jan 31)Where: HavreContact: www.havremt.com

FEBRUARYFriday, February 12

Race to the Sky Sled Dog Race (through Feb 16)Where: HelenaContact: www.racetothesky.org

Saturday, February 13Legends of the Wulf Nordic Ski Race

Where: AnacondaContact: http://missoulanordic.org

Northern Division Freestyle Competition (through Feb 14)Where: MissoulaContact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Saturday, February 20Ice Fishing Tournament

Where: GlasgowContact: www.glasgowmt.net

COMPETE!

COMPETE!Friday, February 26

West Yellowstone Sled Dog Races – Wild West Stage Race (through Mar 5)Where: West YellowstoneContact: [email protected]

Saturday, February 27Terrain Park Jam Snowboard/Skier (through Feb 28)


Snowbowl Cup Gelande Championship (through Feb 28)Where: MissoulaContact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Sunday, February 28Special Olympics State Winter Games (through Mar 5)

Where: Whitefi shContact: www.somt.org

MARCHSaturday, March 6

Rendezvous Cross-Country Ski RaceWhere: West YellowstoneContact: www.rendezvousrace.com

Pinhead ClassicWhere: BozemanContact: www.bridgerbowl.com

Snowboard JamWhere: MissoulaContact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Friday, March 12Friday Night Big Air

Where: Big SkyContact: www.bigskyresort.com

Saturday, March 13Annual St. Patrick’s Race

Where: AnacondaContact: www.anaconda-aoh.com

National Finals Ski Joring Races (through Mar 14)Where: Red LodgeContact: www.redlodge.com/ski-joring

Wednesday, March 17Nate Chute Hawaiian Classic

Where: Whitefi shContact: www.skiwhitefi sh.com

Thursday, March 18US Telemark National Championships (through Mar 21)

Where: Whitefi shContact: www.skiwhitefi sh.com

Saturday, March 20Annual Snow Rodeo (through Mar 21)

Where: EssexContact: [email protected]

Best of the BowlWhere: MissoulaContact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Sunday, March 21Bridger Bump-Off Freestyle Competition


List your competition

406.523.5223

[email protected]

Legend

Run

Ski/Snowboard

Fish

Dogsled

Other!

!


By BRETT FRENCHBillings Gazette

and MARY GERBERMissoulian

As the sun broke over the rim of the mountains, awarm, red light infused the surrounding terrain. Thesnow glowed a luminescent pink, our faces shone witha healthy ruddiness, and a mountain’s worth of runs,glades and bowls lay beneath our ski tips atop theridge’s cornice.

Yeehaw! What a great way to start a winter’s day.Skiing and snowboarding in Montana is far removed

from the ordinary. Fifteen ski areas dot the western halfof the state, providing access to a variety of terrain at aprice range to suit the tastes of beginners and experts,those with deep pockets and the thrifty.

Here’s a breakdown:

LINDA THOMPSON/Missoulian

From deep snow and deep pockets to the more thrifty, western Montana ski areas offer a variety of terrain, snow conditionsand costs to suit any desires.

See RUNS, Page 29

Budget-friendly runs

15 Montana resorts offer skiing for any size wallet

Cheap skisEven when gas, gear and

groceries consume most ofyour paycheck, it’s stillpossible to find aninexpensive way to makesome turns on Montana skislopes.

Bear Paw Ski BowlLocated 29 miles south of

Havre, this ski hill has adulttickets for only $20 a day, $18for students 9 to 18. Children8 and under ski free. The hillis only open Saturdays andSundays, from 10:30 a.m. to4 p.m. With one chair, onehand tow and a vertical dropof 900 feet, this is a smallmountain. But if you’re abeginner, what more do youneed? Ski and snowboardrentals are available inHavre.

On the Net:www.skibearpaw.com.

Great DivideTwenty-three miles

north of Helena near the oldmining town of Marysville,Great Divide offers 1,560 feetof vertical on 140 trails.Adult tickets are $36 or $28Wednesday, Thursday andFriday starting Jan. 6. Or skifrom 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. onFriday nights for only $9. Aterrain park should keepsnowboarding huckershappy, while the mountain’sfive double chairs canefficiently move othersaround. Special lift andrental packages are availablefor beginners.

On the Net:www.skigd.com.

Turner MountainLocated 22 miles north of

Libby, Turner Mountain sellsadult tickets for $30, $25 forjuniors and senior citizens,while children 6 and under

ski free. The ski area boasts22 trails with 2,110 feet ofvertical drop and an averagesnowfall of 250 inches.While only one chair servesthe mountain, half of theterrain is considered expert.The hill is only open Fridaythrough Sunday, exceptduring the Christmas breakand on holidays.

On the Net:www.skiturner.com.

Ski and soakThere aren’t many things

that go better with cold snowthan hot springs. Close tosome of Montana’s ski areasare natural springs that canwarm and soothe your ski-tired body.

Discovery BasinOnly minutes from

Fairmont Hot Springs,Discovery Basin provides1,670 feet of vertical on 63trails. The ski area,overlooking GeorgetownLake, has a good variety ofterrain to suit many abilitiesfor skiers and snowboarders.Adult tickets are $35.

On the Net:www.skidiscovery.com.

Lost Trail PowderMountain

This ski area can get some

big dumps of snow. So if youlike to track powder, put thison your radar. The nearbyLost Trail Hot Springsapparently fell into somedisrepair, but used to be agood site for a soak.Management has saidthey’ve made changes after

some would-be buyers guiltyof the shoddy service backedout. Adult tickets at the skihill are $34. The area is onlyopen Thursdays throughSundays, except over theChristmas season and onholidays. The terrainincludes 1,800 feet ofvertical and 300 inches ofannual snowfall. The ski areais located 90 miles south ofMissoula, at the head of theBitterroot Valley.

On the Net:www.losttrail.com.

Maverick MountainHidden in southwestern

Montana’s PioneerMountains, Maverick canboast low rates and twonearby places to plunge intohot water – Jackson HotSprings Lodge and ElkhornHot Springs. The ski hillfeatures 2,020 feet of vertical

LINDA THOMPSON/Missoulian

While lift lines can sometimes mean a wait, it’s a goodchance to check out what the other skiers are wearing.

RunsContinued from Page 28

See RUNS, Page 30

CABIN CREEK OUTFITTERSRex Griffin, Darby MT • 821-0247

The bells will ring as Percheron Draft Horses pull us along the river and through the woods. Then we’ll warm by the campfire with hot chocolate and roast marshmallows or add an outdoor tent camp dinner(steak or chili).

HolidayHayrides

Call NOW for Appointment: 821-0247



spread out across 24 trails.The mountain’s annualsnowfall is 180 inches,accessed by one double chairand a rope tow. Adult ticketsare $30.

On the Net:www.skimaverick.com.

Showdown MontanaHigh atop the Little Belt

Mountains, ShowdownMontana offers a familyenvironment while nearbyWhite Sulphur Springsserves up a hot pool.Showdown, whichcelebrated its 70th seasonlast year, is famous for itsearly snowfalls that average245 inches a year. Themountain’s 1,400 feet ofvertical drop is serviced byone triple and two doublechairlifts. Adult full-daytickets cost $35.

On the Net: www.showdownmontana.com.

Midrange mountainsBigger doesn’t always

mean better when youconsider Montana’smidrange mountains.

Blacktail Mountain SkiArea

Overlooking FlatheadLake, about 45 minutes fromdowntown Kalispell,Blacktail provides skiers andsnowboarders with 1,400feet of vertical serviced byone triple chair and twodoubles. An adult ticket is$36 a day, which gives skiersaccess to 26 trails. Ski onThrifty Thursdays (excludingholidays) for $25.

On the Net: www.blacktailmountain.com.

Lookout Pass Ski AreaThis ski hill is so far north

(30 miles north of St. Regisoff Interstate 90) that it

shares some trails withIdaho. Notoriously snowycountry, the high mountainsgenerate about 400 inches ofsnow annually. With 1,150feet of vertical, the hilldishes up 34 runs at amidweek rate of $31 foradults ($34 weekends andholidays). The mountain isopen Thursdays through

Mondays, as well as duringChristmas break and onholidays. In January andFebruary, the mountain alsowill be open Wednesdays.

On the Net:www.skilookout.com.

Montana SnowbowlLocated only minutes

from downtown Missoula,

Snowbowl is famous for itstricky terrain. Two high-capacity double chairliftsquickly carry skiers andboarders to the top of themountain for the 2,600-footdrop. Forty-two runs spreadwinter enthusiasts out,including one that cruises


Family skiing is available at nearly any of the ski hills in the area with some terrain suitable forbeginners.


See RUNS, Page 31

for three miles. The adultrate is $39 a day.

On the Net: www.montanasnowbowl.com.

Crème de la crèmeThe state’s top mountains

are top-rated for somesimple reasons – lots ofvariety, good snowconditions and high-speedlifts that quickly cart yourcarcass to the top of themountain.

Big Sky ResortThis is the state’s big

kahuna; no one else cancompete with the amount ofterrain, vertical drop andnumber of lifts. With 4,350feet of vertical that descendsfrom Lone Mountain, thelongest run is six freakingmiles. But fear not, about 40percent of the terrain is ratedfor beginners andintermediates.Snowboarders will find a halfpipe, rails and other featuresto grind their gear on. Anadult ticket is $79 a day, butdeals are offered throughoutthe year, as well as discountsavailable through packageand pass deals. Big Sky islocated about an hour southof Bozeman via the GallatinCanyon.

On the Net:www.bigskyresort.com.

Bridger BowlPowder hounds from

Bozeman love this home hillwhich is known for its “coldsmoke.” And a new liftadded last year caters tothese hardy backcountryskiers, where an avalanchebeeper is requiredequipment. At an adult liftticket price of $45 skiers andboarders can spread out on75 runs. Bridger Bowl isabout 20 minutes northeast

of Bozeman.On the Net:

www.bridgerbowl.com.

Moonlight BasinBig Sky’s next door

neighbor may be smaller, butit’s got some grand terrain.Located on the north side ofLone Mountain, the hillboasts 4,150 feet of verticaland 76 runs. Experts can trythe ridge’s upper chutes,while beginners andintermediates can stick tothe lower mountain. Anadult full day ticket is $55.

On the Net:www.moonlightbasin.com.

Red Lodge MountainRed Lodge Mountain will

be celebrating its 50thseason this winter withfestivities and deals. Justminutes from downtown RedLodge, at the base of themagnificent BeartoothMountains, the ski area hasbragging rights to 2,400 feetof vertical accessed by 65trails. Snowboarders canfrolic in the terrain park, ortake to the trees to trackpowder. The adult rate is $47a day.

On the Net: www.redlodgemountain.com.

Whitefish MountainResort

The second-largest skiarea in the state, WhitefishMountain providesnorthwestern Montana withits own bragging rights.Located eight milesnorthwest of Whitefish, themountain has 2,353 feet ofvertical crisscrossed by 94trails. Three quad chairliftsquickly whisk skiers andsnowboarders to the top ofthe mountain that sees 300inches of annual snowfall. Aterrain park features gaps,berms and tabletops forsnowboarders. The adult rateis $61.

On the Net:www.skiwhitefish.com.



A ride upthechairliftcan be agoodchance tocatch yourbreathafter a rundown theslopes.

WINTER GETAWAYS

Only 30 minutes from Missoula

38600 Highway 12 West - Lolo

406-273-2201

Relax & Rejuvenate

• Huge Gathering Lobby featuring movies, games and books •• On-site Restaurant & Lounge •

$7900 Stay & Swim PackageReceive an Executive King Room + 2 passes to the Hot Springs

Swimming Pool & Soaking Tubs



By EVE BYRONHelena Independent Record

The Taylor family – Kevin and Nyla, and daughtersEmily, Betsy and Adrienne – might be considered theultimate ski bums.

Don’t get this wrong, however.Owning a ski hill like Great Divide is a lot of work.

The Taylors can put in 14-hour days during the five-month ski season. They have hordes of people in theirfront yard during that time, all wanting something,whether it’s lift tickets, food, drinks or the dozens ofother skier needs. If they’re not working in the lodge,snowmaking hoses always need to be moved, lift tickets

need to be checked and injured skiers need attention.Once the snow is gone, the summer days are filled

with cutting in new runs, fixing equipment and makingimprovements.

“One year, the girls wanted to buy JetSkis, so wemade them dig holes under (tree) stumps so we couldblow them up,” Nyla recalled recently, laughing. “Bythe middle of the summer they said they didn’t wantthe JetSkis that much.”

Yet there’s something special about being raised at aski area. First tracks laid down in champagne powder sodeep you need a snorkel just to breathe. Magical

LISA KUNKEL/Helena Independent Record

Nyla and Kevin Taylor bought the Great Divide ski area in 1985 and have since raised three daughters there.

Ski family

See FAMILY, Page 33

Great Divide ownersenjoy life on slopes


moments when moonlightglistens off hoarfrost-lacedtrees. Having mom use thebulldozer to build a dirt bikerace course. Swimming inwetsuits in the 44-degreewooden barrel used to holdwater for snowmaking.

“We learned how to driveby the time we were 9,completely by ourselves,”said Emily, now 23. “Weskied all the time when wewere little. I was aninstructor by the time I was11 and a ski patroller when Iwas 16.

“Me and Betsy learnedhow to drive an excavatorwhen we were about 10years old. We weren’t verygood at it, but we could diga hole.”

Kevin and Nyla Taylordidn’t start out thinkingthey would someday own aski hill. In fact, it was abroken down truck inWyoming that got Kevin, aPennsylvania native, intothe business.

“I was out elk hunting inthe hills above Laramiewhen my truck died. I wasso mad I turned around andshot it,” Kevin said with agrin.

He walked to the nearbyHappy Jack ski hill, wherehe asked for a ride and a job.He got both.

“I ran the lifts, then therental shop and then I wasmountain manager,” Kevinrecalls. Meanwhile he alsoearned a degree inmarketing, followed by amaster’s in finance.

He bounced around theski circuit, working inColorado at resorts in Vail,Arapahoe Basin and BeaverCreek and for the Wyomingoffice of tourism.

Eventually he landed in RedLodge, where he fell in lovewith the bartender.

“I had a great job inBillings, making goodmoney, but I just quit andleft everything to startworking at the bar in RedLodge,” Nyla said. “I wasjust going to do that for ayear or two, then go tocollege.”

Instead, she and Kevinmarried, and they moved tothe Black Hills in SouthDakota to run a ski area nearLead. They were makinggood money, but didn’t likeworking for someone elseand decided to buy theirown. They looked at skiareas in Arizona, Coloradoand New Mexico, butsettled on Great Divide in1985, buying it for around$12,000 and the promisethat the 1,400 certified ski

club members could gethalf-price passes for therest of their lives.

“We had a lot of moneysaved up, but it disappearedfast,” Kevin recalls.

“When we first boughtthe place and signed thepapers, I walked up and sawholes in the deck. Thenwhen I saw the kitchen Istarted crying, wonderingwhat we had done,” Nylaadded. “I was five monthspregnant with Emily and wehad been living the high life,being wined and dined andflown around by these skiareas that wanted us to buythem. After buying this, wedidn’t go out to dinner forthree years.”

Emily was followed byBetsy who was followed byAdrienne. Instead of fancydinners, they had picnicsand wine in the summer on

their own slopes. They tooklong walks, bought horses,and Nyla learned to runbulldozers, excavators andother heavy equipment.

They were stay-at-homeparents yet brought theirchildren to work with them,with Nyla setting the girls inwind-up swings while sheflipped burgers in the lodge,or letting them fall asleepon warm coats behind thebar while their parentspoured drinks.

“It wasn’t muchdifferent than running afarm or a ranch,” Kevin said.

And like all rural families,they have their adventurestories. Nyla recalls ahorrified customer tellingher the girls were lyingunder a cattle guard oneday, watching cars driveover them. Another timethey were clad in tutus, ice-skating down a ski run.Then there was the timethey had a battery-activatedbaby doll that quivered, andthey girls put it in abackpack and took it skiing,shocking a guest whothought the doll was real.

“They’re really creative,and sometimes that’s not sogood,” Nyla says, laughingagain. “But we have a lot offun, probably too much funsometimes.”

These days, the girls aregrown. Emily still works atthe ski area, but Betsy has ajob in town, working part-time on the hill, andAdrienne has moved to Utahwhere she is – you guessedit – a ski bum.

“She says she’s going toschool, but come ski season...” Kevin says, his voicetrailing off.

“As long as they’rehappy,” Nyla adds.

Reporter Eve Byron canbe reached at (406) 447-4076 or at [email protected].

BLACKTOP TO MARYSVILLEPeople driving to Marysville no longer take the

“Marysville Road.”With a freshly paved road, complete with shoulders

and guardrails, it’s now fondly known as the“Marysville Highway” to the locals, Great Divide SkiArea owner Kevin Taylor says with a laugh.

Sure, there are a few places where the groundsettled and a torrential downpour earlier this summermade it unstable, so the work isn’t quite finished yet,noted Lewis and Clark County Public Works DirectorEric Griffin.

“We’ll let it sit over winter and see if it quitsmoving,” Griffin said. “There are two spots that we’vepatched that are still settling. It’s unfortunate, but theroad is wonderful.”

The six-mile stretch from the Lincoln Road turnoffto Marysville is now 28 feet wide, with a blacktopsurface and distinct pavement markings.

The $8.9 million project was paid for mainly withfederal funds, Griffin said, although the state paid asmall portion and the county contributed staff time.

The pavement doesn’t yet stretch all the way fromMarysville to Great Divide, but Taylor said he’llcontinue to push for that. Some work already hasbeen done there, with guardrails on the particularlysharp curves.

“It’s quite an improvement,” Taylor said.Eve Byron, Helena Independent Record

FamilyContinued from Page 32


By PAULA J. MCGARVEY for Montana Adventurer

If you’re looking for agetaway when the snowstarts to fly, Elkhorn HotSprings is located in theheart of a winterwonderland.

The rustic resort offersaccess to 20 miles ofgroomed cross-country skitrails, more than 200 milesof groomed snowmobiletrails, and is located justthree miles from MaverickMountain downhill ski area.Guests can create theperfect ending to a winter’sday with a hot meal in therestaurant followed by a hotsoak beneath the starry skyin the resort’s outdoormineral springs.

Built in the early 1900s,Elkhorn Hot Springs offersguests a chance toexperience an era gone by.The resort is currentlyowned by the Lovaas family.

“It’s unique,” PattyLovaas said. “It’s old-timeMontana. There’s not manyplaces like this left inMontana.”

Paul Lovaas, her son,added, “It’s quiet and laid-back,” pointing out thatthere’s no cell-phonecoverage at the resort andthat the road to Wise Riveris only open during summermonths. “Basically, we’rethe end of the road in thewinter,” he said.

Lodging ranges from“roughing it” in one of theresort’s nine rustic cabins,heated by wood and with no

indoor plumbing, to themodern conveniences of aheated cabin, complete withbathroom and shower.Rooms to rent are alsoavailable upstairs in therestaurant and lodgebuilding, with access to acommunity bathroom at theend of the hall.

Paul Lovaas said thatElkhorn can accommodategroups of 80 or more andhas a meeting room

available in the second floorof the pool house. “We do alot of groups in the winter,”Patty Lovaas added.

Elkhorn Hot Springs hastwo outdoor, hot mineralpools adjacent to the poolhouse.

“They stay about 100degrees,” Patty Lovaas said.

There is a hotter, wetsauna located inside thepool house. The hot springs,open to the public, and

men’s and women’schanging areas withshowers are available tovisitors and overnightguests. Food and snacks areavailable at the pool houseand include heapingportions of hand-scoopedice cream served in conesand cups.

“We have people thatdrive up from Dillon just toget ice cream and swim,”Patty said.

Elkhorn’s chef,Christopher Jackson, is aColorado native and wastrained at the CulinaryInstitute of America in SanFrancisco. He workedextensively in San Diegobefore coming to Montana.He serves moderately pricedAmerican cuisine.

Weekend guests areserved a buffet breakfast,and on weekdays are offereda continental breakfast. Therestaurant is open to thegeneral public for limitedhours on weekdays, withexpanded hours onweekends.

“Reservations arerecommended on theweekend,” Jackson said.

Menu items includeappetizers, burgers, steak,shrimp, chicken, pork chopsand pasta. The dessertmenu includes pie and icecream.

“We offer a special everyFriday, Saturday andSunday,” Jackson said.Specials include prime riband international cuisine,including Italian, Frenchand Mexican dishes.

ALL ABOUT ELKHORNDirections: From Interstate 15, take the

Jackson/Wisdom exit, two miles southwest of Dillon,to Montana Highway 278. Stay on Highway 278 for 25miles to the turnoff for the Pioneer Scenic Byway,heading north toward Polaris. Elkhorn Hot Springs is13 miles from the turnoff.

Rates: Lodging starts at $45 per person for asingle lodge room, $70 double occupancy for rusticcabins, and $90 double occupancy for the moderncabin. Breakfast and admission to pools are included.The hot springs are open to the public from 8 a.m. to9 p.m. on weekdays and until 10 p.m. on weekends.Daily admission to the pools is $6 for adults and $4for children ages 4-15. Children 3 and under are free.Group rates are available. Restrained pets arewelcome for an additional $5 per day. All major creditcards and in-state checks are accepted.

Restaurant: The restaurant is open to overnightguests for breakfast daily until 10:30 a.m. It is open toguests and the general public for limited hours duringthe weekday, with expanded hours on weekends. Thechef offers weekend specials. Food is moderatelypriced American cuisine and reservations arerecommended. Call for current hours.

Rentals: Elkhorn Hot Springs also offers cross-country ski and snowshoe rentals, half- and full-dayrentals of Polaris snowmobiles, and snowmobile suits,gloves and boots. Call for current rates.

For more information: Call (406) 834-3434 or 1-800-722-8978, or visit www.elkhornhotsprings.com.

Ski, snowmobile, soak at end of road in Elkhorn

montana adventurer winter 2009

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