NEWSLETTER - MAY 2015LITIR-NAIDHEACHD - AN CEITEAN 2015

Welcome to the spring 2015 edition of our members newsletter. I say spring more in hope than expectation as apart from a couple of weeks of warm balmy weather, winter has yet to loosen its grip on the islands and indeed more rain and gales are set to batter our coasts again later this week.Despite this though, our events programme is off to a flying start, with two very well attended talks by John Love in February and March. The first, at Taigh Chearsabhagh, Lochmaddy, was an account of a journey undertaken along the coast of Norway, and in the second, at An Lanntair, Stornoway, John gave a fascinating description of the sea eagle re-introduction project which began in the 1970s on the Isle of Rum and in which he was involved from the start.April saw the 100th anniversary of the Ross Mountain Batterys involvement in the Gallipoli campaign, and IBT were proud to be part of the series of events arranged to commemorate this. Also in April new trustee Mike Townsend led a guided walk up Eabhal in North Uist which, despite the rather inclement weather, was much enjoyed by all who took part.Saturday 2nd May saw the first of our seasons boat trips, to Taransay, and Im pleased to say it was a very successful day which you can read all about elsewhere in these pages. Unfortunately though, our boat trip to Pabbay (Barra Head), planned for the same day, had to be called off due to strong winds.Coming up in the next few months we have

several more boat trips; to the Monach Isles, St Kilda, Ronay and Scarp, guided walks to Rossinish and Vallay Island, and talks by Chris Murray, John Love, Elisabeth Shipton and Jill de Fresnes. In addition we have two conferences arranged, in Campbeltown and Barra, about which you will find more details within.As well as all this we have published two books already this year; Portree Origins and History by Ella Liley and Isle of Coll, Facets of a Gem by Ewen McGee, both of which are available on our website or by contacting the office. New titles planned for the summer include In Search of Colmcille - The Legacy of St Columba in Ireland and Scotland, the proceedings of the two Colmcille conferences we held in Orinsay and Donegal in 2013 and 2014, Province of the Cat by George Gunn, a lyrical exploration of the county of Caithness and A Stag from Rum by Robert Atkinson.On the funding front Im pleased to announce that we have been awarded a grant from the Muaitheabhal Trust, based in Pairc, for a two year project which will enable us to keep on our two part-time marketing staff and develop our website, all of which is designed to make us more sustainable and self-sufficient in the long term. In addition to this the Hebridean Connections project has been extended for a further year. A new post, based in Uist and Barra, has been added to the Hebridean Connections team, and this has been filled by Sue Wilson. As the Book Trust is continuing in its management role for Hebridean Connections, we welcome Sue to the IBT fold.Sadly John Groom has elected to leave us, although he is planning to continue as a volunteer, and I would like to take this opportunity to thank him for all the sterling work he has done for the Trust over the last few years. This means we will be recruiting for a new staff member to fill his post in the coming weeks.As you see it has been a busy and exciting year so far and will continue to be so. I hope very much that you enjoy this seasons events and new titles and look forward to seeing as many of you as possible over the coming months.

From the Chairman

Isle of Coll Facets of a Gem Book LaunchOur newest title, Isle of Coll Facets of a Gem by Ewen McGee will be launched at 2pm on Saturday 23rd May at Tigh na Mara, Arinagour, Isle of Coll. The author will be on hand to talk about the book and to sign copies. All welcome, the more the merrier.

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

30th May, 10amGuided walk to Rossinish and surrounding settlements with Alasdair MacEachen

27th/28th JuneSt Columba & Argyll a 2 day symposium in Campbeltown, Kintyre

18th July, 10amGuided walk to Vallay Island, North Uist with Iain MacDonald

22nd August, 10amBoat trip to Ronay Island, North Uist. Departing Kallin Harbour

2nd September, 6.30AGM followed by talk with Chris Murray on the Archaelogical finds at Dun sites in Lochs

12th September, 10amBoat trip to Scarp as part of the Harris Mountain Festival

18th/20th SeptemberIsland Castles Annual conference to be held in Castlebay, Barra

22nd September, 7.30Scots Herring Girls A talk with Jill de Fresnes at An Lanntair, Stornoway

17th October 7.00The Frontline Women of WW1 A talk with Elisabeth Shipton, Museum nan Eilean, Lews Castle

NEWS

Staff ChangesWe are sad to say goodbye to John Groom as a member of staff, although he is staying on as a volunteer for a few hours a month. Johns contribution to IBT over the last couple of years has been enormous but we will miss him just as much for his fabulous cakes and scones as for his sales and marketing experience. John is continuing to work for Hebridean Connections.

A galley castle is a fortified building which was accessed via a sea-gate from a galley, or birlinn. Think of Kisimul in Barra, Breachacha on Coll, Castle Stalker in Lorn or Duart in Mull and you get the picture. In fact there are a whole string of such impressive citadels all along Scotlands western seaboard, from the Outer Hebrides down to Arran and Kintyre. Their position reflects the lifestyle of the inhabitants; the sea being the fastest and most reliable means of transport for many centuries. From the Norse period through to the end of the Lordship of the Isles, the seas to the north and west of Scotland formed a major trading route, at the crossroads of which stood the islands.

The late Ian R. Macneil, 46th Chief of Clan Macneil and proprietor of Kisimul Castle on Barra, had a great interest in galley castles, his father having restored Kisimul, and had long advocated further research into these fascinating buildings. Rory, 47th Chief, has inherited his fathers enthusiasm for the subject and in conjunction with the Islands Book Trust and Historic Scotland, has organised a 3-day international conference to explore different aspects of galley castles, to be held in Barra from Friday 18th Sunday 20th September 2015.

This event will bring together some of the leading experts in their fields, and will cover various themes, from the construction and use of the castles, to the galleys which serviced them and the role of the castles in Gaelic song and poetry. Links to the northern isles, Ireland and the Isle of Man will be explored, as will the function of the Norse-Gaelic seaways. There will be a reception for delegates in the dramatic Kisimul Castle on the Saturday night, followed by a ceilidh, and on the Sunday a visit to various

sites of historical interest in Barra and Vatersay.

All ages are welcome and meals and overnight accommodation can be arranged as part of an all-inclusive conference price. Alternatively, you can come along to individual sessions on a pay-as- you- go basis. There are special reductions for Barra and Vatersay residents and full-time students.

The conference is organised by the Islands Book Trust in partnership with Historic Scotland, Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, and Macneil of Barra. For more information or to book please contact Alayne on 01851 820946 or Mairi on 01851 830316 or email alayne@theislandsbooktrust.com.

CONFERENCE RATES

Members Non-members3 Days all inc* 300 350per day** 30 35per session** 3 5

Barra/Vatersay residents/full-time students per day*** 15

*Includes 3 nights accommodationt, 3 dinners, 3 lunches,teas/coffees, plus all conference sessions, including visit and ceilidh**no accommodation, includes lunch ***no accommodation or meals

Due to limited options some of the accommodation may be in self-catering properties requiring delegates to provide their own breakfasts

10% discount for couples sharing a double/twin room (subject to availability)

Island CastlesThe Historic Galley Castles of the Norse-Gaelic Seaways

Isle of Barra, Friday 18th Sunday 20th September

FRIDAY 18th SEPTEMBER9.15am: Registration

ALASDAIR MACEACHEN - Introduction to the Conference

RORY MACNEIL - Ian R Macneils Call for a Re-Assessment of Galley Castles

ANDREW McDONALD - Galley Castles and the Norse-Gaelic Seaways (Keynote Address)

DAVID SELLAR - Families, Clans and Castles

DONALD MCWHANNELL - Sailing Times in the Norse-Gaelic Seaways

Buffet Lunch

ALAN MACNIVEN Galley Castles: The Place Name Perspective

TOM McNElLL Castles and their Landscapes

JAMIE MACPHERSON - Construction of Galley Castles; Materials and Sources

COLIN MARTIN - Where are the Galley Harbours?

JOHN RAVEN Norse Dun Reoccupation and Castles

Conference Dinner (followed by after-dinner talk)

CALUM MACNEIL - Barra, Boats, and Seaways

SATURDAY 19th SEPTEMBER9.OOam: DAVID CALDWELL - GalleyCastles: What about Shelter and Defence?

MARK THACKER - The Scottish Medieval Castles and Chapels 14th Century Project

DENIS RIXSON Galleys and Land Assessment

DOMHNALL UILLEAM STIBHART - Castles and Galleys in Gaelic Song and Poetry

PETER DAVEY - Galley Castles and the Isle of Man

COLIN BREEN - Galley Castles in Ulster and Argyll

Buffet Lunch

JOHN MACFARLANE - Galley Castles in the Sound of Mull and Loch Awe: a local Mull/Lorn Perspective

SARAH JANE GIBBON - Norse Castles in Orkney

RICHARD ORAM Western Seaboard Castles: Some Historical Perspectives

GEOFFREY STELL Western Seaboard Castles: Some Physical Perspectives

BARBARA CRAWFORD General Discussion and Final Thoughts

Reception in Kisimul Castle Dinner (followed by Ceilidh)

SUNDAY 20th SEPTEMBER10.00am 4.00pm: Visit to places of historical interest in Barra and Vatersay

Dinner

Ask anyone of a Scots or Irish persuasion to think of a saint and the chances are theyll come up with the name Columba. In both countries references to the early Christian missionary are ubiquitous; with everything from topographical features to churches, schools and hospitals named after him. Culturally too, the legend of Columba is embedded deep within the psyche of these two Celtic nations.

Not much is known about Columbas early years, although myths abound by the dozen. He is believed to have been born in Gartan, Donegal, to have studied under St Mo Bh at the monastic school of Glasnevin, and to have founded the monastery of Derry. His actions in copying a manuscript belonging to St Finnian are said to have contributed to the cause of the great battle of Cl Dreimne in AD 560, and that the guilt he suffered thereafter was a prime factor in his leaving Ireland for Scotland a few years later.

There is little or no historical evidence to support any of this, but in some cases just enough circumstantial proof to keep scholars guessing. What is known is that Columba sailed from Ireland to Scotland in AD 563, and settled on the island of Iona, where he founded an abbey, which became a great centre of learning. From there he and his followers pursued their missionary calling with zeal, spreading their way through the highlands and islands, using diplomacy to forge alliances with local rulers and establishing churches. When, a century after Columbas death, Adomnn, the 9th Abbott of Iona chose to write his Vita Columbae, the saints future as a cultural and religious hero was guaranteed.

Nowadays Scotland and Ireland work together to preserve Columbas legacy, through the cultural body Colmcille, a partnership programme between Brd na Gidhlig and Foras na Gaeilge. Colmcille has established the Sl Cholmcille/Slighe Chaluim Chille/St Columba Way, which stretches from south-west Donegal to the Outer Hebrides, linking places associated with Columba.

One of the most important parts of the way is the sea crossing between Ballycastle in Ireland to Campbeltown in Scotland, and it is in the latter place that the Islands Book Trust, in partnership with Colmcille, is to hold a two day event exploring the cultural and religious legacy of St Columba in Argyll on 27th and 28th June 2015. With talks from St Columba experts from both sides of the Irish Sea, this is a great opportunity to learn about the huge influence of the saint over the region and the enduring cultural and linguistic links between Scotland and Ireland.

The event is open to all and there will be a special sailing of the Kintyre Express from Ballycastle to Campeltown on the morning of Saturday 27th June for those coming to the conference from Ireland. An all-day conference price (including transfer to and from Ballycastle for those who wish it) is available or you can attend individual sessions on a pay-as -you-go basis if you prefer. For more information or to book please contact Mairi on 01851 830316 or Alayne on 01851 820946 or email alayne@theislandsbooktrust.com.

St Columba and Argyll2-day Conference to Explore the Legacy of St Columba and Argyll

Ardsheil Hotel, Campbeltown, Saturday 27 Sunday 28 June

NEW TITLES

Portree: Origins and Early HistoryELLA LILEY

The fact that Portree might have a history or even at one time, not have existed at all had never occurred to me. Portree seemed as if it had always been there. It was the capital of Skye. It was where we went to school. But a series of Local Studies courses with Aberdeen University prompted some questions: Who decided to build a village here? When? Why? Who were the first villagers? And why was it called Portree anyway?

This book begins by determining how the village came by its name, dispelling the myth that it was changed to Portree after the visit of King James V in 1540. It then traces the development of Portree from the first suggestion of a few houses to a village with churches, schools, banks and the jail.

Ella Liley comes from Claigan, near Dunvegan and has lived in Portree now for over twenty years.

ISBN: 978-1-907443-29-9 | Paperback | 8.99 | Available now

Isle of Coll Facets of a GemEWEN MCGEE

This book looks at one gem of a Hebridean island from every angle, from the very earliest days to to-day. It looks at land, law, language, education, emigration, employment, travel, housing, communication, nature and much more; for example the references to flora from 1764, the most beautiful embroidered carpet that the earth perhaps is anywhere covered with and from 1803, a plain thickly covered with a wild geranium of the finest purple colour I ever saw.

Comprehensively illustrated, it tells of the fun of the good times but does not ignore the hardships of the periods when the crops failed and the kelp industry suddenly ceased. It is sourced from many books, old and new, from newspapers and, of course, from the very many tales that have been told in front of a good peat fire. If nothing else, it should answer the often-asked question: Coll. Wheres that?

ISBN: 978-1-907443-18-3 | Paperback | 14.99 | Available now

In Search of Colmcille - The Legacy of St Columba in Ireland and Scotland

St Columba is the best known of the early Christian saints who journeyed from Ireland to Scotland in and around the 6th century AD in search of personal fulfilment or to evangelise. He is believed to have been born at Gartan, Donegal, leaving Ireland in 563 to found a monastery on Iona, where he died in 597. Many legends surround his activities, particularly in Ulster, Iona, and the Hebrides. Indeed, a whole mythology has been developed over the centuries.

This volume contains chapters in English, Scots Gaelic and Irish Gaeilge from two memorable conferences organised by the Islands Book Trust in Lewis and Donegal on the theme of Columba his life and legacy.

With contributions by outstanding scholars from Scotland and Ireland, including Professor Donald Meek and Professor Mire Herbert, both of whom are internationally renowned for their writings on Columba, this book will appeal to anyone who is interested in the saint and his legacy.

ISBN: 978-1-907443-66-4 |Paperback |Price tbc |Available June 2015

Province of the CatGEORGE GUNN

A journey to the radical heart of the far north.

A dramatic plateau of sedimentary rock with the Pentland Firth to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the west, the North Sea to the east and a vast sea of bog to the south, Caithness is an island in all but name.

As often misunderstood as it is overlooked this is a poets journey through Caithness, its landscape, people, culture and history. In The Province of The Cat you can experience the unique blend of Norse and Gaelic cultures which has given Caithness its distinctive place in Scotlands story. In Caithness the landmass of mainland Scotland stops, but the story of Scotlands social formation starts.

The Province of The Cat is a lyrical, heartfelt portrait of the far north of Scotland. It is an epic story of human achievement, struggle, tragedy and survival told in language that is as clear as the Caithness air itself.

ISBN: 978-1-907443-42-8 | Paperback | 9.99 | Available 31 July 2015

Events in Uist and BarraOur spring events programme is well under way and as every event comes round, we hope for good weather to help us on our way. A number of keen walkers set off with Mike Townsend on a rather wintry morning at the end of last month, to tackle the ascent of Eabhal ... and indeed it was a successful day out, with good clear sunny spells between a few showers. Thanks very much to Mike for leading the group on the day.

Plans for the Pabbay (Barra) excursion were curtailed by the fresh wind on the day, blowing from the south east and straight for the landing stages, so the advice of the skipper was taken to leave Pabbay for another day.

Next on the programme is a walk to Rossinish on 30th May, followed by the Monachs boat trip on 20th June - a popular trip that filled up early in the year.

Not on the Book Trusts events programme was a very enjoyable event where we once again met up with our Irish friends all the way from Dunquin in Co Kerry. Over many years now, we have worked with Micheal de Mordha and his colleagues at the Blasket Island Centre and it was a pleasure to welcome Micheal and friends back to Uist for the opening of an exhibition of Blasket Island photographs that will be on display at Taigh Chearsabhgh, Lochmaddy until the end of June. In return, the Blasket Centre have taken the St Kilda exhibition that was in Taigh Chearsabhagh throughout 2014.

A visit to the Blasket exhibition is highly recommended and please keep an eye on our website www.theislandsbooktrust.com to keep yourself up to date with IBT events and the latest news on publications.

Alasdair MacEachen

Maureen Kerr TalksIBT author Maureen Kerr has been much in demand as a speaker lately as groups all over southern Scotland are keen to hear about her adventures on St Kilda and her book, George Murray A schoolteacher for St Kilda. In March Maureen spoke to the Wigtownshire University of the 3rd Age group:

Our speaker this month at Wigtownshire U3A was Maureen Kerr. Maureen trained as a graphic artist at Glasgow School of Art and worked for a major advertising company before moving on to pursue other avenues. She described the next forty years as a gypsy life living and working all over the Highlands and Islands of Scotland: from Glasgow, Loch Duich in Wester Ross, Durness and Cape Wrath, Rosehall in Sutherland, Argyll and then onto the Uists in the Western Isles to St Kilda, where she spent fifteen years working for the military as a chef.

It was whist on St Kilda that she began to develop as an artist and writer. This unique archipelago of islands could not fail to inspire creativity. Many people are fascinated, intrigued and even seduced by the romance of an idyllic community living in such remote conditions. Maureen gave us an insight into just how hard it is to live on the Island, even today with modern conveniences and communications. Landing on the Island both by sea and from a helicopter remains at the mercy of the weather.

Although Maureen was working long hours she made time to go out with her painting rucksack in all but the most severe weather. She would find a spot and just sit a while to soak up the atmosphere and the sounds, then take a few photographs to act as a reference. Being a great diarist she made notes that she would later include on the back of her painting so capturing the mood of the landscape. On St Kilda she found no shortage of subject matter as no two days would be the same with changing light and seasons. The change in seasons is

marked not by the change in the colours of the leaves; there are no trees on the Island but by the migratory habits of the birds.

As a writer Maureen has had numerous articles and a few short stories published, her first book: George Murray - A School Teacher for St Kilda 1886 - 87 was published by the Island Book Trust in 2013. On reading the transcript of Georges diary she became fascinated with his personality and the islanders lifestyle at that time. Discovering that he came from Rogart in Sutherland, an area that she knew well, she contacted a local historian who told her He was from hereabouts right enough and ended up a Free Church minister down round about Nairn somewhere. I mind hearing a window fell on him and he died. That was enough to make her want to know more. After a lot of research in an area inundated with Murrays, she found the family and uncovered a second diary he kept when in North Uist serving as a missionary and teacher before his time on St Kilda. If you want to know more about the window incident and life on St Kilda you will have to read Maureens book. The audience were treated to an interesting and delightful talk illustrated by her many photographs, paintings and sketches. Maureen has such an easy way of presentation that I for one could listen to her stories and the tales of her exceptional experiences for many an hour.

Margaret Cooper

We would like to thank the Wigtownshire U3A for permission to reproduce this article.

Taransay Boat TripIts seven years since, on a glorious day in late May, the Book Trust last ventured to Taransay. The day was so idyllic and precious that it seemed foolhardy to push our luck with another attempt. Seven though, being an auspicious number, we felt that in 2015 the time was right to make a second expedition to the island.

Not much has changed about Taransay in the intervening years, except that the island is now under new management, having been bought by Borve Lodge Estate in Harris from the Mackay brothers of Horgabost for the princely sum of 3 million in 2011. Although the self-catering cottages are no longer available, the new owners take visitors out to experience the island regularly on their landing craft, the Verley Anne, and it was aboard this battered veteran of the Falklands war that we began our own visit on Saturday 2nd May, accompanied by estate manager Steve Woodhall and his young family.

Taransay, while being best known nowadays for the year-long Castaway project, has a long and fascinating history. Inhabited since the Iron Age at least, it had a population of 70 in 1900, which had dwindled to 5 by the 1960s. Sadly it has been deserted since the 1970s and has the dubious distinction of being the largest deserted island in Scotland.

In the past though, it seems to have been of strategic significance. In Loch an Duin are the ruins of a prehistoric dun accessed by a causeway. There are also the remains of a dun near the township of Paible on the southern side of the island. Christianity arrived about 750 AD and the island has two early chapels, also at Paible, dedicated to St Taran and St Keith, each with its own graveyard (cladh). On the other side of the island, at the Uidh, there is an ancient pillar stone with a Latin cross carved into its western face, known as Clach an Teampull (the stone of the chapel). When Martin Martin visited the island in about 1700, he discovered there was a rather grisly myth associated with the Paible chapels:

There is an antient Tradition among the Natives here, that a Man must not be buryd in St. Tarrans, nor a Woman in St Keiths, because otherwise the Corps would be found above-ground the day after it is interred. I told them this was a most ridiculous Fancy, which they might soon perceive by experience, if they would but put it to a tryal.

Unfortunately, not finding any willing volunteers, Martin was obliged to leave before he could establish the truth, or otherwise, of this enduring legend. Nowadays the only cause of disinterment is the gradual erosion of the machair, where human remains from the graveyards are regularly exposed, to be washed away by the tides.

Taransay did not escape the Viking raiders and settlers of the medieval period and there are still the remains of several Norse mills. In 1544, the islands population was massacred by a raiding party of Morrisons from Ness, who themselves were killed in turn by the men of Berneray. Much later, in the 1880s, the island received another distinguished visitor; the Gaelic folklorist and scholar Alexander Carmichael. Like most of the islands, Taransay was cleared in the nineteenth century and its people scattered to Harris, Lewis and Cape Breton. Life was hard for those that remained, and the community fell into a long slow decline which finally ended in 1974 when the last remaining permanent inhabitant died.

As Bill Lawson says in his pamphlet The Isle of Taransay, The community of Taransay is gone, but still the beauty of the island remains. This was certainly true last Saturday, when, as seven years earlier, earlier, the sun bathed the island in golden light, the turquoise seas sparkled and the white beaches gleamed.

As soon as we landed our party split up, heading in different directions, each individual aiming for his or her own particular favourite spot. During the afternoon we met each other by chance; at Loch an Duin, at Uidh, at Corran Ra - and then finally by arrangement back at Paible, to re-embark for the journey home. It was another perfect Hebridean day, and our sincere thanks go to Steve and his team at Borve Lodge Estate for making it all happen.

Alayne Barton

A SAGA OF SEA EAGLESThe outstanding success of the re-introduction of the White-Tailed Sea Eagle to the British Isles, following its extinction in the early 20th century, was the subject of the IBT event at An Lanntair, Stornoway, on Thursday 26th March. The presenter was John Love, IBT trustee and key figure in the first programme of re-introduction in Rum in the 1970s. Since these early days, the Sea Eagle has spread to many other parts of Scotland, particularly islands, with 66 territories in total by 2012 of which 18 were in the Outer Hebrides.

Johns presentation included some superb photographs from Norway where the birds were sourced as well as Scotland and a first-hand account of the challenges and issues surrounding what has been called the most outstanding nature conservation initiative in Britain. While acknowledging the criticisms in some quarters, John stressed the economic as well as conservation benefits which the Sea Eagle has brought to many areas through wildlife tourism. Copies of Johns book A Saga of Sea Eagles (Whittles Publishing, 2013), an extended and updated account of the programme of re-introduction, were available at the event.

John Randall

REMEMBERING GALLIPOLISheriff Colin Scott Mackenzie DL spoke at a well-attended IBT event in the Drill Hall, Stornoway, on Friday 24th April as part of the series of centenary events to commemorate the role of the Ross Mountain Battery in the Gallipoli campaign which was launched on 25th April 1914 with the aim of securing a passage for Allied Forces through the Dardanelles to capture Constantinople and open up a route to the Black Sea during the First World War.

Men from the Western Isles in the Ross Mountain Battery made a major contribution to this ill-fated initiative, in which 1151 men from Lewis alone were killed in action (out of a total of more than 30,000 losses from the Commonwealth as a whole). As Colin said, nothing went to plan, and the original objectives were not achieved after a struggle lasting some 9 months.

In view of the other events to mark the centenary, including a wonderful but sad exhibition of photographs and other memorabilia which filled the Drill Hall, Colin used his talk not to recite the statistics but to concentrate on some of the human stories and anecdotes about a dramatic and traumatic phase in island military history. For example, the sight and sound of the RMB soldiers making their way on foot through England for training in Bedford apparently gave rise to some misunderstanding amongst the local population. Most of the men were Gaelic-speakers and some still had snow on their boots. When asked where they were from, they replied Ross-shire, which came across to the English as Russia!

The whole evening was much appreciated by the audience, who included army personnel and islander descendants of those who fought in Gallipoli. Our thanks go to Colin Scott Mackenzie and other members of the Western Isles Gallipoli Centenary Commemorations Committee.

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