40 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 41

MaroonedWords and images: Andrea Ferris

Hinchinbrook Island by kayak

Ever since I set eyes on the clouds gently hugging the peaks of the majestic Jurassic-like crags of Hinchinbrook Island in Far North

Queensland more than 15 years ago I’ve dreamt of being marooned there – Gilligan-style.

What did mum always say? ‘Be careful what you wish for …’

After a frustrated foot-stomping semi-tantrum, which went along the lines of: ‘Why have we got these (bleep) kayaks and all this (bleep) equipment if all we ever do with them is paddle the (bleeping) local river …’, the other half (TOH) felt obliged to agree to a paddling adventure outside the confines of our postcode. ‘How about Hinchinbrook?’ I ventured meekly. ‘I’ve had an itch to go there and walking the Thorsborne Trail lugging 20 kg on my back just isn’t my thing – let’s paddle it instead.’

TOH: ‘When?’ Me: ‘Has to be next month; that’s when it’s the least windy according to my research.’

TOH: ‘That’s four weeks.’ Me: ‘So. Let’s get cracking!’

Which is how, four weeks later, we loaded two kayaks and a couple of boxes of camping equipment into the station wagon and headed north to Lucinda – 1406 km and 17 hours’ drive time.

Those four weeks, however, involved some serious fact finding and preparation. One of the Queensland Sea Kayak Club members generously shared knowledge of his similar trip. We also talked to the folk at the Cardwell Visitors Centre, the local Coastguard, read every trip report online and purchased an EPIRB, VHF marine radio, and hired a satellite phone from a company in Townsville. We had a waterproof folder with emergency numbers, maps, tide charts and weather forecasts, plus all the usual safety equipment such as first aid kit, tow lines, paddle floats, spare paddles, PFDs and flares. We weren’t just prepared, we were armed!

First overnight stop was behind the pub at Marlborough 100 km north of Rockhampton.

Five bucks a night, hot showers and toilet, cold beer, meals if required.

Second stop was the Horseshoe Bay Resort & Caravan Park at Bowen. Far from five bucks, we paid $35 for a gravel tent site with ocean glimpse.

Final destination, Lucinda, home of the world’s largest bulk sugar loading jetty at 5.76 km long and the Wanderer’s Holiday Village Caravan Park, which has front row seats to Hinchinbrook Island; Australia’s largest island national park of 393 square kilometres. The local store also has the best fish and chips according to my favourite travel app WikiCamps. Indeed it did as we had our last ‘proper’ feed and ice-cream for eight days.

The western side of Hinchinbrook is wild croc-infested mangrove swamps, hence paddlers and hikers stick to a one-way east side trek, which necessitates a pre-expedition car shuffle. TOH had arranged to get the car to Port Hinchinbrook (46 km north) and be dropped back at Lucinda by the Mission Beach Taxi (two hours and $110 later …)

Then, finally, it was launch time for the anticipated short four-kilometre paddle to the southern tip of Hinchinbrook. Not so short as it turned out. Paddling into a stiff 15 knot mid-afternoon sea breeze and one metre swell was wet and windy and we were more than happy to land and set up camp at George Point.

Thank goodness for the kayak trolley is all I can say. Admittedly I was reluctant to include it in the already overstretched inventory, but it proved an absolute godsend as when the tide went out there was often up to 200 metres to get the boats to a campsite above high tide mark.

As the wind dropped and the sun set on a glorious tropical Far North Queensland day I got to scratch my Hinchinbrook itch – literally! The triple ‘M’ jackpot of mozzies, midges and march flies. Of course we were prepared with long sleeves and pants and socks and RID and mozzie coils and citronella candles, but it only takes a matter of minutes, even seconds, to bear the brunt of an attack and we’d left it just that little too late to cover up on our first evening.

Clockwise from top: The perfect calm paddle northward to Nina Beach. Our view from the Nina Beach ‘fancy’ camp. Last day sunrise. The view from Nina Peak was worth the effort. Marooned! Shipwrecked on Ramsay Bay beach. Sunken Reef Bay kayak camp.

‘Just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale,

a tale of a fateful trip,

that started from this tropic port,

aboard this tiny ship…’

42 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 43

GUILD ADVERT

The next morning we paddled to Mulligan Bay and walked for an hour on the Thorsborne Trail to Mulligan Falls, which is a fresh water paradise of cascading waterfalls and rock pools to swim in.

I’ll digress slightly here to explain that Hinchinbrook Island is accessible only for walkers of the famed Thorsborne Trail, paddlers, and some boats. The Queensland Department of National Parks, Recreation, Sport and Racing provides 13 bush campsites, only four with toilets. Sites have limited stay times and must be booked prior to landing. Only 40 walkers are allowed on the island at any one time and, because they’re staggered along the trail, you may not see a single soul for the entire time you’re there – bliss.

Reluctantly leaving Mulligan Falls we paddled to the kayak-only campsite at Sunken Reef Bay where we met Peter and Alan who were sailing a small Hobie-type catamaran up the coast. We shared some tide and weather information (bit of a blow coming for the weekend) and learned that a group of volunteers had just left after collecting several hundred kilograms of marine debris from the beach. The pile contained a staggering array of stuff that belied imagination as to how it got there.

The next day, after a delightful paddle to Zoe Bay, we caught up with a group of energetic, dedicated volunteers from the Conservation Volunteers and the Tangaroa Blue Foundation, a not-for-profit that coordinates the Australian Marine Debris Initiative. I can’t say how impressed

I was at the work these organisations do and how gob-smacked TOH and I were when confronted with the statistics of marine debris and beach litter the group gave us.

Half an hour’s walk into the ‘jungle’ is Zoe Falls, another spectacular fresh water swimming hole and waterfall (probably ultra-spectacular when it hasn’t been such a dry season), which we had all to ourselves and were kept amused when sitting in the water by the fish that literally jump out of the water and catch march flies as they land on you.

Camping on Hinchinbrook is just gorgeous – once you wise up to the insect management! The sea is vivid aqua blue, the beach fringed with thick, lush tropical vegetation, and the backdrop is dramatic, rugged, soaring, rocky escarpments (the tallest being 1100 metres).

The next day was the best paddle of the trip in calm conditions where we felt insignificant against the rugged terrain onshore and overjoyed by the presence of sea turtles and sea birds, such as the brahminy kite and white-breasted sea eagle.

Nina Bay was where we planned to hole-up for a couple of days to wait out the expected windy weekend and take the opportunity to climb Nina Peak, so we set up a ‘fancy’ camp under a grove of coconut palms where TOH fiddled around for the afternoon creating an oasis that Gilligan and the Skipper would have been proud of!

The view from the peak was worth the strenuous climb and it was here we got a bar of mobile phone reception and could let the folks know we were safe and sound. On the descent the wind picked up and our peaceful paradise was no more …

It blew and then it blew harder and then it blew all night. The seas rose, the waves angrily pounded the shore and sand blasted our ankles – we weren’t going anywhere.

Never mind, there was a trail to discover, which we did for five hours the next day as we trekked across to Ramsay Bay, to find the start of the trail where the hikers are deposited by boat, and back to camp. We chatted to some walkers, explored the creek for fresh water and made a satellite phone call home to get a weather check (winds decreasing over the next four days).

With the dawn it appeared the wind had indeed dropped a little overnight and the conditions rated on the borderline of our comfort zone – so we loaded up, paddled through some gnarly breakers and turned north into an ocean that clearly wasn’t kayak friendly.

The next 90 minutes saw both of us keep cool heads and deploy some skills learned through club training exercises to manage a potentially disastrous situation. Soaked and chagrined we were eventually dumped unceremoniously and literally onto Ramsay Bay beach with only the loss of a hat, a tent peg, and some pride. Marooned.

What did we eat?Eight days with no refrigeration and limited space is a bit of a logistical exercise. I bought an Excalibur 9-tray dehydrator and dried a lot of food then vacuum-sealed. We ate as well as we do at home!

Our menu included:n Dehydrated savoury kangaroo

(less fat) mince with pre-cooked and dried rice or spaghetti

n Dehydrated savoury fried rice

n Dehydrated sweet rice (cooked in almond and vanilla milk) with dried apple and custard

n Spaghetti with bottled Barilla Pesto Alla Genovese

n Pancakes with honey and maple syrup (in a squeeze bottle)

n Dried pineapple

n Muesli

n Staples: milk powder, Nestlé condensed milk tube, coffee bags, chocolate ripple biscuits, muesli bars, Salada biscuits, peanut butter, vegetable oil, tuna in foil pouches

Clockwise from left: Paradise found – Mulligan Falls. Camping behind the dunes to escape the wild, windy weather. A camp that Gilligan would be proud of.

44 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA

FACT FILE

Getting there Hinchinbrook Island National Park is in Far North Queensland adjacent to the coast between Cardwell and Lucinda.

Walkers of the Thorsborne Trail can reach the island from either end, although most walk north to south and begin from Cardwell. There are three commercial ferries to choose from and details are available at www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks and search ‘thorsborne trail’.

Kayakers generally paddle south to north to take advantage of the predominant south-easterly winds. Leave from Dungeness, 1 km from Lucinda where there is a commercial boat ramp.

Prior planning is essential, as is a ‘Plan B’. John from Absolute North Charters is a local with a wealth of knowledge of the area. His barge is capable of transporting kayaks and luggage and his schedule is flexible depending on weather conditions. www.absolutenorthcharters.com.au or 0419 712 577.

Where to campThere are 13 bush campsites on Hinchinbrook, some for walkers and some for sea kayakers only. Bookings are essential www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/hinchinbrook

Only 4 sites have toilets, only 3 have fresh water. No fires allowed. All rubbish to be taken with you. Rat-proof boxes are provided, otherwise make sure food and utensils are stored in the boat.

Camps are beach front and it pays to choose ones with a breeze to keep the insects at bay.

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Lake Kajarabie

LAKEEYRE

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Lake EyreSouth

Lake Blanche

IslandLagoon

Sylvester Lake

LakeCallabonna

Bilpa MoreaClaypan

Lake Gregory

Lake Yamma Yamma(Mackillop)

Lake Galilee

LakeHart

PernattyLagoon

LakeMachattie

LakeCadibarrawirracanna

LakeMaraboon

LakeBuchanan

Lake Etamunbanie

SaltLake

Moonda Lake

LakeYounghusband

Peery Lake

Lake Wyara

Lake Mulapula

Terewah OrNarran Lake

Lake Wivenhoe

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Marion Reef

Osprey Reef

Frederick Reef

Bougainville Reef

Herald Cays

Lihou Reef and Cays

Holmes Reef

Flinders Reefs

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GROOTE EYLANDT

FRASER ISLAND

MORNINGTONISLAND

Hinchinbrook Island

Vanderlin Island

Moa (Clarke) I

Bribie Island

Marchinbar Island

Bentinck Island

Badu (Mulgrave) I

Prince Of Wales(Muralag) I

Saibai I

North Stradbroke Island

Raragala Island

Boigu I

Townshend Island

Magnetic Island

Great Palm Island

Great Keppel Island

Mabuiag I

Maria Island

Darnley(Erub) I

Murray Islands

Lady Elliott I

Green Island

West I

Whitsunday Island

Moreton Island

North Island

Guluwuru Island

Hayman IslandGloucester Island

Curtis I

Bremer Island

South Stradbroke I

Scawfell Island

Lizard Island

Dunk Island

Heron Island

Lloyd Bay

HERVEYBAY

Temple Bay

ArnhemBay

HALIFAX BAY

BROAD SOUND

Caledon Bay

Port Clinton

Weymouth Bay

LIMMEN BIGHT

MelvilleBay Port Musgrave

ALBATROSS BAY

Port Bradshaw

ShelburneBay

Newcastle Bay

Rockingham Bay

SHOALWATER BAY

Bowling Green Bay

G U L F

O F

C A R P E N T A R I A

PRINCESSCHARLOTTE

BAY

Moreton Bay

Cape York

Hay Point

Cape Byron

Sandy Cape

Cape Arnhem

Waddy Point

Abbot Point

Cape Moreton

Cape Clinton

Duyfken Point

Cape Beatrice

Cape Keerweer

Cape Flattery

Lookout Point

Cape Melville

Cape Direction

Cape Grenville

Cape Wilberforce

Upsta

rt Bay

Saraji

Keppel Bay

Port Curtis

CURTIS CHANNEL

Horn (Narupai) I

Milyakburra

Cape Tribulation

MtRobe

Mt Norna

Mt Abbot

Mt Elliot

Mt Walker

Mt Hutton

Bald Hill

Mt Carter

Mt WilliamMt Hogarth

Mt Stewart

Mt Halifax

Mt Drummond

Mt Tabletop

Mt Drummond

Mt Finnigan

St Mary Peak

Consuelo PeakThree Sisters

Thornton Peak

Round MtnMt Booroondarra

Kerrs Table Mount

Bairds Table Mount

Bartle Frere

Mt Unbunmaroo(Black Mount)

Freeling Heights

Haddon Corner

Cameron Corner

Poeppel Corner

C H A N N E L C O U N T R Y

NORTHUMBERLAND

ISLANDS

Nebo

Eulo

Coen

Peak Downs

Repulse Bay

Flind

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trance

G R E A T B A R R I E R R E E F

G R E A T B A R R I E R R

E E F

Robinson River

Nelia

GumluClare

Laura

Tilpa

Garah

Hebel

Emmet

Comet

Wowan

Louth

Yaraka

Yetman

Marree

Anakie

Malbon

Quamby

Dalbeg

Morven

JundahBanana

Yaamba

Kynuna

Moomba

Bollon

Cracow

Moonie

Paluma

Ogmore

Byrock

Rowena

Carinda

Mingela

Dulacca

Adavale

Kinrola

Koumala

Duchess

Gilliat

Prairie

Bellata

Bonshaw

Thallon

Wyandra

Cheepie

Callide

Jericho

Morella

Carmila

Almaden

Pilliga

Beltana

Betoota

Kajabbi

Blinman

Kidston

Dajarra

CooladdiWestgate Guluguba

Yandaran

Newlands

Quambone

Enngonia

Isisford

Yalleroi

Corfield

Stamford

Forsayth

Daintree

Bedourie

McKinlay

Coolabah

Eromanga

Toompine

CoolataiCumborah

Windorah

Gwabegar

Nymboida

Pentland

Arrilalah

Goonyella

Maxwelton

Blackbull

Wanaaring

Rolleston

Port Alma

Middleton

Woodstock

Chillagoe

Urandangi

Greenvale

Condamine

Baryulgil

Meandarra

Lyndhurst

Gunpowder

Innamincka

Coppabella

Ravenswood

Hungerford

Nindigully

Kumbarilla

Glenmorgan

Mungallala

Stonehenge

Ilfracombe

Einasleigh

Birdsville

Burramurra

Yantabulla

Muttaburra

Abergowrie

Elura Mine

Parachilna

Tibooburra

Marlborough

Bogantungan

Mount Perry

St LawrenceBlair Athol

Mount Molloy

Weilmoringle

BalfesCreek

Fords Bridge

Torrens Creek

Gilbert River

Phosphate Hill

Mount Surprise

Lakeland

Burren Junction

SouthBlackwater

Olympic Dam

Captain Billy Landing

Andoom

Bambaroo

Homestead

Mount Coolon

GOWAN RA

PEAK RA

AUBU

RN R

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MC

GR

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Palm Islands

Whitsunday Group

WELLESLEY ISLANDS

CUMBERLAND ISLANDS

SIR EDWARD PELLEW GROUP

Lindeman Group

TORRES STRAIT

CAPE YORKPENINSULA

GOVEPENINSULA

ENDEAVOUR STR

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Flinders Group

Capricorn Group

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G U L F

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DARLING DOWNS

TIRARI DESERT

S I M P S O N D E S E R T

T A B L E L A N DS T R Z E L E C K I

D E S E R T

S T U R T S T O N Y D E S E R T

Q U E E N S L A N D

Buckingham Bay

Port L

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Cumberland Channel

CAPRICORN CHANNEL

B A R K L Y

Isle Woodah

Bick

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Centre I

RA

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NA

RR

IEN R

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Leura

Tongo

Mulka

Junee

Kimba

Cobham

Marqua

Waitan

Yakara

Teilta

Tilcha

Lerida

Iffley

Almora

Dunbar

Durrie

Soudan

Rokeby

Leumeah

Cowarie

Westlea

Retreat

Monkira

Jervois

Corinda

Barenya

UndillaCanobie

Vanrook

Clayton

LongtonTarbrax

Bulimba

Benmara

Merluna

Mahanewo

Tartulla

Koolatah

Yarrawin

Ranken

Caiwarro

Naryilco

Orientos

Trinidad

Glengyle

Surbiton

Cassilis

AnnitowaGeorgina

Downs

Burleigh

Morstone

Lorraine

Wondoola

Bowthorn Barwidgi

Inkerman

Etadunna

Humeburn

Arrabury

Eastmere

Wambiana

Lolworth

Toolebuc

Highbury

Drumduff

Yarraden

Bramwell

Innisvale

Arkaroola

Fort GreyBundaleer

Tobermory

Thylungra

Palparara Nandowrie

Connemara

Vergemont Peak Vale

Aberfoyle

Kamileroi

EsmeraldaRobinhood

Mittiebah

Lawn Hill

Bing Bong

Woolerina

Curnamona

Yancannia

Ambathala

Collabara

Lake Nash

Lyndhurst

Gallipoli

Seven Emu

Lakefield

Avon Downs

Tobermorey

Frankfield

Yelvertoft

Mootwingee

Nockatunga

Castlevale

Warbreccan

Coorabulka

Springvale

Lucy Creek

Ooratippra

Thorntonia

Claraville

Inverleigh Strathmore

Murnpeowie

Currawilla

YarrowmereChatsworth

Carandotta

Dalgonally

Wando Vale

Meadowbank

Armraynald

Alexandria

Strathburn

Moolawatana

Murra Murra

Durrandella

Breadalbane

Argadargada

Numil Downs

Riversleigh

Donors Hill

Delta Downs

TiltagoonahMulyungarie

Frome Downs

Moray Downs

Natal Downs

Malbon Vale

Saxby Downs

Bluff Downs

Maggieville

Wollogorang

MallapunyahSprings

Strathhaven

Violet Vale

Border Downs

Shelburne Bay

Mount Douglas

Thurloo Downs

Millers Creek

DynevorDowns

Clifton Hills

Pandie Pandie Keeroongooloo

Tarlton Downs

GregoryDowns

Saltbush Park

Austral Downs

Miranda Downs

Calvert Hills

Marina Plains

Batavia Downs

Lorella Spring

Mount Margaret

Kangaroo Hills

Abingdon Downs

Rutland Plains

Cordillo Downs

Mount Sturgeon

Chudleigh Park

Mount MulgraveMcArthur River

DavenportDowns

Mount Lyndhurst

Cresswell Downs

MountRavenswood

Diamantina Lakes

Roxborough Downs

Buckingham Downs

Mount Elsie

Augustus Downs

Mount Mulyah

Bulloo Downs

Galway Downs

Marion Downs

Glenormiston

Strathfillan

Nappa Merrie

Durham Downs

Mount Howitt

Barkly Downs

Westmoreland

Wrotham Park

Tara

Bell

Weipa

Miles

Tieri

Guyra

Urunga

Sarina

Bourke

Kyogle

Wondai

Howard

Aramac

Winton

Boulia

Cooroy

Wandoan

Capella

Gayndah

Wee Waa

Quilpie

Mossman

Clifton

Bonalbo

Ashford

Woomera

Baradine

Jandowae

Mitchell

Eidsvold

Theodore

Richmond

Silkwood

Dimbulah

Emu Park

Warialda

Wallumbilla

Bellingen

St George

Longreach

Gracemere

Cloncurry

Home Hill

Umbakumba

Numbulwar

Hope ValeKowanyama

Andamooka

Woolgoolga

Augathella

Barcaldine

Georgetown

Pormpuraaw

Dirranbandi

Tin Can Bay

Julia Creek

Roxby Downs

Collarenebri

White Cliffs

Esk

Giru

Oakey

Tambo

Bluff

Tiaro

Surat

Monto

Moura

Alpha

Tully

Texas

Iluka

Boonah

Uralla

Kilcoy

Yuleba

Injune

Taroom

Dysart

Marian

Ingham

Bamaga

Murgon

Tingha

Goondiwindi

Bingara

Babinda

Attunga

Manilla

Walgett

Glenden

Halifax

Croydon

Karumba

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ustralia) 2012Hinchinbrook Island

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Seconds to pitch. Second to none.

You’ll love the Oztent experience on your next camping adventure.

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• M O N T H W A R R A N T Y •

• THE 30 SECOND TENT •

3 0

Oztent_FPC_A4_R1.indd 1 5/11/2014 1:07 pm

When to goWeather is everything when it comes to a sea kayak holiday. We chose October because statistically it’s the least windy month, but the weather-gods didn’t agree this time! Local boatie, John, agrees that September/October is the best time. The temperature was high 20s and it was still okay to swim prior to the stinger season. Although there is still a chance they’ll be about.

What to bringEssentials: kayak trolley, insect repellent, safety equipment, EPIRB, satellite phone, VHF radio, GPS and printed map, long-sleeved tops and long pants, insect-proof footwear, sunscreen and hat, water storage (we had 40 L in 4 x 10 L bags), extra food in case of ‘Plan B’.

Further informationHinchinbrook Island National Park: www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks

Absolute North Charters: www.absolutenorthcharters.com.au

Queensland Sea Kayak Club: www.qldseakayak.canoe.org.au

Cardwell Tourism: www.cardwelltourism.com

Coral Sea Kayaking: If you don’t have your own equipment and would like a guided sea kayak Hinchinbrook adventure visit www.coralseakayaking.com

Conservation Volunteers: www.conservationvolunteers.com.au

Tangaroa Blue Foundation: www.tangaroablue.org

As it turned out, it was, in fact, a fortuitous excursion. After setting up camp behind the dunes to escape the wind, we scoped the beach to realise we’d landed only a kilometre from the pontoon where the boats drop off the hikers. So, the next day, Tuesday, TOH set off early to wait for a boat and get a weather forecast.

After less than 15 minutes of waiting, John from Absolute North Charters chugged around the bend with four hikers and gave us the bad news: strong windy weather until Friday or Saturday. Our intention to finish the trip by Wednesday was kaput. We had plenty of food and water and could have sat it out, but when John offered to come back the next day and take us and the boats to the mainland, the choice was, as TOH bluntly put it, ‘A no-brainer.’

Several taxing hours of hauling boats and gear down the beach and out to the landing in preparation for an early morning pick up took care of the rest of the day and there was a bit of positive self-talk needed not to feel defeated;

reminding each other that we’d still enjoyed eight days on Hinchinbrook, just not exactly where we’d planned to be!

After photographing a spectacular sunrise, that was it. The barge came, the gear was loaded (quickly to escape the midges) and 45 minutes later we were unloading back in civilisation.

Hinchinbrook Island is what I’d wished for and more. It’s wild: untamed and unpredictable. Its grandeur is humbling, which is why the walk or the paddle should be arduous because the experience needs to reflect the environment for the reward to be earned.

TOH says this trip was merely a recon exercise! We’ll be heading north again in 2015 to pick up where we left off and explore the Family Islands National Park to the north. And, John assures us he’ll come and get us wherever we land …

‘No phone, no lights, no motor carnot a single luxurylike Robinson Crusoe,it’s primitive as can be…’

The trolley was a godsend!