march's black sheep travel guide

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS LOVE ADVENTURE

®

SheepBlack®

Recycle this paper! Pass it on.

SheepBlackPatagonia’s Monthly Travel Guide Magazine

Trail TipsFrom the Pros’

the best things in life are

FRE

E

March 2011

Black Sheep • Issue 43 • Season 6

Special about Antarctica

The Flowers of PatagoniaGrowing Up Wild

Pho

to: P

lant

a E

mbo

tella

dora

Aon

ni M

agal

lane

s, P

atag

onia

Chi

lena

March.11w w w. b l a c k s h e e p t r a v e l e r. c o m

2w w w. b l a c k s h e e p t r a v e l e r. c o mBlack Sheep 3

Editors LetterJosé Ignacio Blavi Aros, Publisher

CEO & Publisher: José Ignacio Blavi Aros

[email protected]

Executive DirectorChristian Chahuan

Creative Director:Cristian Manns

Director e-comerceMarcelo Puga

Directors:Christian Chahuan

Marcelo PugaCristian Manns

José Ignacio Blavi

Advertising Manager North Patagonia

Marco Garrido

Trail Tips:Rustyn Mesdag

Where to find us:Augusto Leguia Norte 224

Of. 41Las Condes, Santiago

Phone: (+56-2) 334.9836•

Baqueano 719Puerto Natales, Patagonia

We are a grass roots travel guide magazine, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language Mag. We publish eight issues per year coinciding with Patagonia’s high season.Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info gives travelers like you a space to share experiences. We are ex pats and locals, we are travelers and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia.Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help you plan the next adventure to the bottom of the world. We believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We sleep in tents and camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We Recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being part of the solution, not the problem. We believe we can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled.

We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe you can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundaries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that in life what you pack in you will pack out. We believe travel is about experience culture, living like locals, respecting Pachamama, and going back home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe travelers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united.We make a difference and we know you can join us.

In the past few years I have seen the Black Sheep grow from a small, one-town newspaper into a larger group effort that now covers all of Patagonia.What started simple, is now much more complex.The original idea was to get all the basic info into one paper. Now, the entire Black Sheep team has helped define a bigger purpose.Aside from the maps and bus times (which are now permanent fixtures in the paper) there is something more. Much more than what you can find in the guidebooks.When coming to a place like Patagonia, you probably want to use your time well.We want to make sure you’re not wasting time hunting down basic info that should just be common knowledge. As travelers, we want to do and see all the main attractions, but the fact that they are called ‘attractions’ starts to feel a little typical. We want more from our vacation, more than what we Google or find in a Lonely Planet. Even in our nervousness, we remain open for some great, life- changing moment, or to hear a story so incredible that we will tell (and retell) the tale for the rest of our lives. Nowhere in a Lonely Planet or Footprint have I ever seen a chapter named ‘Secret Life-Changing Things to Do.’ But such things do exsist. They’re everywhere. Just not in the guidebooks.The problem is that it’s too hard to find out what those secret life-changing things to do are, especially when you’re just passing through an area during your travels.The most amazing things to do in any paticular area are generally only done (and known) by the locals.Black Sheep has become a sort of bulletin board, full of life-changing listings, created by locals. The paper was started by travelers, not by investers or bankers. It was started by people who had no idea how to run a magazine, but we tried it anyway. We did it to help our fellow travelers go home with somethingmore than a stuffed penguin and a bumpersticker.

We wanted not only to help with questions and answers, but also to give folks a fair shot at going home with something special. Seemed like a simple enough idea, though a bit harder in practice.Then something amazing happened. Other travelers started coming out of the woodwork. Foreigners that had chosen to settle permanently in Patagonia started contacting us with stories and information, the hidden secrets of thier respective new homes. All of a sudden, a team pulled together for a single purpose: to share all we have learned by living abroad. In every city that Black Sheep covers, we have professional travelers, slackers, guides, ex-pats, writers and hippies living life to the fullest and letting everyone in on the shortcuts and the best info around.So Black Sheep is now covering an area that can be seen from space. Pretty impressive for a bunch of fun-seekers living abroad. If it’s hip, we’re on it: from Pucón to Isla Navarino, from five-star hotels to hippy crashpads.We’re here to share all the things we would have loved to know when we first decided to settle down in Patagonia.You are no different than us. As you journey down to the bottom of the world, you have just as much of a chance to stumble across a rare opportunity or meet someone with such an incredible story, that you can’t believe no one has ever heard it before.You may take a photograph that captures a moment in time that can’t be duplicated. Or you might have a great moment of inspiration that’s just begging to be shared.So share it.We’re calling out to all you like-minded travelers to spread your inspiration.Your story may be the story that inspires someone else to alter their trip, opening a door to something that may just change their life forever. If you think you can be a part of the Black Sheep collective, contact us directly at [email protected]

About Black Sheep

Make your own routePlan your own tripRent your car and go out

Reservations: 600 2000 000Santiago. Puerto Montt. Temuco.Concepción.

Punta Arenas.Balmaceda.Coyhaique.Salamanca.La Serena.Copiapó.Antofagasta.Calama.Iquique

www.econorent.cl


4w w w. b l a c k s h e e p t r a v e l e r. c o m

5Puerto Natales

Regular Services: Regular Services:Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas: 7:30 - 10:00 - 14:00 - 17:00- 19:30 Torres Del Paine: 7:30 - 14:30 ( all year) Puerto Natales - Ushuaia: 7:30 Private ServicesPuerto Natales - El Calafate: 7:00 - 8:00- 8:30

Esmeralda 869 - Puerto Natales. Phone: (56-61) 410951 - (56-61) 412218www.mjpatagonia.com - [email protected]

BED AND BREAKFAST

www.natalesbedandbreakfast.clPuerto Natales

•BUSES MARÍA JOSÉ•

Chile / Argentina Buses

How to get around Patagonia This schedule is a rough guide, as times always change slightly. During winter and at the beginning and end of the summer season, there are fewer buses. There is no public transportation to Torres del Paine during winter. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions.

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS

One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed)Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person

Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: [email protected]

2010-2011 Season ScheduleDates From Pudeto From Refugio PehoeNovember 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009 09.30*

12.0018.00

10.00*12.3018.30

March 16 - 31, 2009 12.0018.00

12.3018.30

April 2009 12.00 12.30

*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2009 & 01/01/2010.

Fot

ogra

fia ©

200

8 D

anie

l B

ruhi

n W

.

Torr

es

del

Pain

e

Bu

ses

Natales – torres del PaiNe torres del PaiNe – Puerto Natales

Pacheco - Ramirez 224 - Phone: 56.61.242174

Puerto Natales 07.30 14.30 Administration 13.00 18.00Laguna Amarga 09.45 16.30 Pudeto 13.30 19.00Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 14.30 19.45Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 22.00

María José Buses - Esmeralda 869 - Phone: (56-61) 410951 - (56-61) 412218

Puerto Natales 07.30 14.30 Administration 13.00 18.00Laguna Amarga 09.45 16.30 Pudeto 13.30 19.00Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 14.30 19.45Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 22.00

Punta Arenas - Ushuaia Ushuaia - Punta Arenas

Buses PachecoPh. 242174Colón 900

Every dayexcept Saturday09.00

Buses PachecoSan Martín 1267

Every dayExcept Sunday07.00

Puerto Natales - Ushuaia Ushuaia - Puerto Natales

Buses PachecoPh. 414513Ramirez 224

Every day except Sat. at 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)

Buses PachecoSan Martín 1267

Every day Except Sun.07.00 (with a bus change near PA)

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales

Buses PachecoPh. 414513Ramirez 224

Daily07.3010.0013.30

17.0019.30

Buses PachecoPh. 242174Colón 900

Daily08.3010.3014.00

18.0019.30

Puerto Natales - El Calafate El Calafate - Puerto Natales

CootraPh. 412785Baquedano 456

Daily08.30 Cootra

Terminal de buses

Daily08.30

ZaajhPh. 412260Arturo Prat 236

M, W, F & Sun.:07.00 T, Th & Sat.:08.00 & 14.30

ZaajhTerminal de buses

W, F & Sun.:08.00T, Th & Sat.:17.00

Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos Rio Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Buses PachecoColon 900Ph: 242174

Tue, Fri, Sun.11:30

Buses PachecoTerminal de Buses

Mon, Wen, Sat.12:00

A comfortable & secure voyage across

Lake Pehoe...

Fot

ogra

fia ©

200

8 D

anie

l B

ruhi

n W

.

Catamaran Hielos PatagonicosBUSESPACHECO.COM56.61.242174 - 56.61.414513

THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL PATAGONIA

WWW.NAVIMAG.COMNAVIMAG 56.2 4423165 RESERVAS 56.2 4423114



7Puerto Natales

If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?

This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.

If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?

This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.

What is Navimag?

Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt.

What the heck is a “Zodiac”?

A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine.

Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?

Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591.

Where can I buy camping food in town?

Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.

Where can I buy white gas?

The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores.

Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them?

Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes).

What about shopping hours midday?

Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.

What are the winters like around here?

Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.

Why is there so much trash on the beach?

That’s a great question... You could always help and pick some up.

What about recycling programs?

Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo.

And all of the dogs running around?

Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

How much do the taxis cost?

1.000 pesos within city limits.

Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place?

It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.

Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?

Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else?

Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.

Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something?

It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.

questions & answers

Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000FOUNDED: 1911WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming.JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region.

Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the

Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism.

Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.

Sustainable architecture and minimalist designIn the heart of Puerto Natales

MIRIAM PARRA´SVILLAGE

Handcrafted Jewelry

Coffee Shop

Tabacco shop & Souvenirs

Bike Rentals

Fogon: Chilean Live MusicWifi Zone and Computers

From 9pm to 11pm everydayBulnes 555 - Puerto Natales

Phone: (56-61) 410931

Leave No Trace in Patagonia1. Plan Ahead and PrepareKnow the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.

Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable SurfacesDurable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.

In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.

In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsi-tes and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

3. Dispose of Waste ProperlyPack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.

To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

4. Leave What you FindPreserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural ob-jects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

5. Minimize Campfire ImpactsCampfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.

6. Respect WildlifeDo not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.

Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

7. Be Considerate of Other VisitorsRespect other visitors and protect the quality of their experien-ce. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu.

B.

Philipi

Chorrillos

Esmeralda

Señoret

Bories

Eberhard

Grocery

Store

Information Outdoor

Shop

Bus

stop

M.

Bulnes

O‘Higgins

O‘Higgins

Yungay

Magallanes

Magallanes

B.

AranaLadrilleros

C.

Pinto

B.

Encalada

BaquedanoE.

Ramirez

Galvarino

B.

Zamora

BalmacedaA.

Prat

T.

Rogers

Punta ArenasRio Turbio, ArgentinaTrekking Dorotea

Puerto Natales, ChileCerro CastilloMilodon CavePuerto PratPuerto Bories

Ca

na

l S

eño

ret

V

Pedr

o Mon

t

Miraflores

Ar g

en

t i na

Ch

ile

Cerro Castillo

Torres de l Pa ine

Nat i ona l P ark

Puerto Natales

Sono Ultima Esperanza

Rio Turbio

Calafate

Punta Arenas

Park Enterance

Campsite

Services

P

ata

go

nia

Ice F

ield

- C

am

po

de H

ielo

Su

r



9Torres del Paine

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

A N T A R C T I C A

The International Polar Year promised to advance our understanding of how the Earth’s remote polar regions impact global climate systems, to bring about fundamental advances in many areas of science, and to fire the enthusiasm of young men and women for future careers in science and engineering.

WHAT IS IPY? International Polar Year (IPY) was an intense, coordinated campaign of polar observations, research, and analysis that will be multidisciplinary in scope and interna-tional in participation. IPY will use today’s powerful research tools to better understand the key roles of the polar regions in global processes. IPY 2007-2008 will be funda-

mentally broader than the International Polar Years held in 1882-1883 or 1932-1933 or the International Geophysical Year of 1957-1958. This IPY will explicitly incorporate multi-disciplinary and interdisciplinary studies, including biological, ecological, and social science elements.The polar regions play key roles in our global environment. Many important broad and interlinked research challenges involving both polar regions exist today. To name just one example, how and why are the changes in polar regions occurring and how can we predict and mitigate the outcome? Changes in ice mass are linked with regional and global environment and atmospheric and oceanic processes; implementing polar observation

systems would help document the changes. Clues for understanding how and why similar changes occurred in the past remain stored in polar earth and ice; sediment and ice coring would help us understand past changes.

HOW DO I GET MOREINFORMATION? www.us-ipy.gov or www.ipy.org, General Questions to [email protected]

Did You Know..? The first International Polar Year was in 1881-1884 and now has a web site with data and images. These records offer a unique opportunity to study the Arctic as it existed prior to the current era of environmental

change. Meteorological data from the early IPY stations have been collected and are pre-sented on the site for the first time in digital format. www.arctic.noaa.gov

The International Polar “Year” actually will extend from March 1, 2007, until March 1, 2009, to allow researchers to conduct two annual observing cycles in each polar region, particularly in the isolated parts that are prohibitively cold and dark for roughly six months of the year.

I n t e r n a t i o n a l P o l a r Y e a r

• There are no Polar bears on Antarctica! No mat-ter what we have seen in children’s books, Polar bears and penguins never cross paths.

• No one owns Antarctica! No matter what you have heard or read, no country owns any pie

shaped piece of the white continent.

• Antarctica is not one big iceberg! There is actually a solid continent underneath all the ice.

Size•13,829,430 km25,339,543 miles21.4 times bigger than the USA, 58 times bigger than the UK•Antarctica´s largest ice shelf is the Ross ice shelf: (about the size of France)510,680 km2197,974 miles2

Ice•Antarctica has 70% of all the world’s fresh-water frozen as ice - and 90% of all the world’s ice.

Thickness•Mean ice thickness: 1,829 m / 6,000 ft•Maximum ice thickness: 4,776 m / 15,670 ft

Population•About 4,000 on scientific bases in the short summer 1,000 total in winter, around 25,000 summer tourists - and this place is 1.4 x bigger than the USA! There are NO permanent resi-dents and NO native population.

Discovery and Exploration•Antarctica was imagined by the ancient Greeks, but not even seen until 1820.•The first time anyone set foot on Antarctica was in 1821.

•The first year-round occupation - overwinter-ing - was in 1898.•The South Pole was first reached in 1911.

Climate•3 factors rule in Antarctica - cold, wind and altitude. Antarctica holds the a record for each of these things.

•If Antarctica’s ice sheets melted, the worlds oceans would rise by 60 to 65 metres (200 - 210ft) - everywhere.•Antarctica is the best place in the world to find meteorites. Dark meteorites show up against the white expanse of ice and snow and don’t get covered by vegetation. In some places, the way the ice flows concentrates meteorites there. The ice makes them gather in one place.

•The cold and dry conditions in the “Dry Val-leys” region of Antarctica are so close to those on Mars that NASA did testing there for the Viking mission. It has not rained in the dry val-

leys for at least 2 million years.

•The Antarctic ice cap has 29 million cubic kilometres of ice. This is 90% of all the ice on the planet and between 60 and 70 % of all of the world’s fresh water. Only about 0.4 percent of Antarctica is not covered by ice.

Animals•Many Antarctic sea creatures including fish have antifreeze in their blood, so they don´t ac-cidentally get frozen solid.•It has been estimated that during the feeding season in Antarctica, a full grown blue whale eats about 4 million www.coolantarctica.com (krill are small shrimp-like creatures), that’s 3600 kg or 4 tons - every day for 6 months. The daily intake would feed a human for about 4 years!

A n t a r c t i c a S t a t i s t i c s

Did you know:Melting of polar ice has a negative effect on global warmng. Surface without snow or ice absorbs more eat, about 80-90% & surface with snow and ice re-flects ore heat, around 85-90%. This way melting of ice is contribng to global warming which will results in further melting of ice.

Icebergs are simply pieces of ice, large and small, which have broken off of a sheet, ice shelves, or glaciers, and float out to sea. By definition however, an iceberg is suppose to measure more than 100 square meters in area, and stand more than five meters above the surface. Occasionally, huge pieces of floating shelf ice break loose and drift away in the currents. These pieces of ice are called Tabular icebergs, and can be enormous, perhaps hundreds of square liometers in surface area, and may drift for years before melting or becoming grounded. Icebergs between 20-30 meters are particularly common. Lengths of icebergs up to 20 km are not uncommon either. The total mass of Antarctic icebergs is estimated to be one million cubic yards per year.

A n t a r c t i c I c e b e r g s

A n t a r c t i c a f i r s t s1893, The expedition lead by Carl Anton Larsen made the first use of skis in Antarctica. He also discovered petrified wood on Seymour Island, east of the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

1898, Photography was first used on the expedi-tion lead by Adrien Victor Joseph de Garlache de Gomery. On this same voyage the three-masted whaling ship Belgica was imprisioned in the ice for 377 days, being the first time men wintered south of 60°S. This proved that bases could be set up on the continent itself, enabling a full-time program of exploration.

1898, The expedition lead by Carsten Egeberg Borchgrevink took 90 sled dogs, the first dogs used in Antarctic work. The expedition also pioneered the use of kayaks foe seas travel, and was the first to bring to Antarctica the Primus stove, a lightwieght, portable pressure stove invented in Sweden six years before, that is still in use today. Unfortunately the expedition marked another first - when Norwegian zoolo-

gist died on Oct 14, 1899. The 10 men that this expedition left behind on Cape Adare for the winter proved that men could survive Antarc-tica’s fierce, dark winet ashore, using a wooden hut as a base for travels along the coasts and inland towards the pole, and the two huts that were built atill stand today.

1908, Six men form an expedition lead by Er-nast Henry Shackleton ascended Mt Erebus for the first time, reaching the rim of the volcano’s crater on March 10. At the same time another three men went hiking towards the South Mag-netic Pole, reaching it on January 16, 1909, the first time it had been visited.

1928, The first powered flight in Antarctica was made by Wilkins and Ben Eielson on Novem-ber 16, who took off from Deception Island and flew for 20 minutes. On December 20 they took off again and flew for 11 hours across the Peninsula and along its eastern side, covering 2,100 km. In March the expedition suffered

Antarctica’s first plane crash.

1935, The first woman to set foot on the Ant-arctica continent landed at the Vestfold Hills on February 20.

1946, Helicopters and icebreakers were used for the first time in the Antarctic by the US Navy in what they called Operation “Highjump”, an expedition that was primarily a training exercise for the US forces and a massive effort to map Antarctica.

1957, The first commercial flight in Antarctica was made, a PanAm Stratocruiser that departed from Christchurch and landed at McMurdo on Octoner 15. Aboard this plane were the first women to see the South Pole, two stewardesses, Patricia Hepinstall and Ruth Kelly.

350 B.C. It was the ancient Greeks who first came up with the idea of Antarctica. They knew about the Arctic - named Ark-tos - The Bear, from the con-stellation the great bear and decided that in order to balance the world, there should be a similar cold Southern landmass that was the same but the oppo-site “Ant - Arktos” - opposite The Bear. They never actu-ally went there, it was just a lucky guess!

A n t a r c t i c aM y t h s

February 2007



11Punta Arenas

questions & answers

Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005FOUNDED: 1848WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo FrowardJUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?

Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

What does Punta Arenas mean?

Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.

Why are there ropes on the main square corners?

Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.

Where is the bus station?

Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas?

Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time…

Is there any public transportation?

Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas.

Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.

How do I know where the colectivos go?

There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

How much do taxis cost?

All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

Where can I change money?

There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

Can I drink the tap water?

Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

How far is Torres del Paine from here?

4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.

How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?

Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.

How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?

250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to

Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.

What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?

To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.

Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map?

Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almost-off-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.

What are my penguin options?

1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.

2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.

What type of day tours are there?

You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended).

Do the street dogs bite?

Yes, gringos only.

How far is the airport out of town?

About 20km or 30 minutes.

How many people live here?

About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.

How much is an airport transfer?

A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical.

Can I reach the end of the continent?

From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent.

How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown?

Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.

Lake District & Patagonia

56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl

erratic rockerratic rock, Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales, Chile, Patagonia • www.erraticrock.com • +56-61-410355

hostel • guide service • rental equipment • transportation • information center • recycling center

These are just a few of the wildflowers you can find in Torres del Paine National Park and around Patagonia this time of year. Reunite with your inner florist and get out there among the orchids and lady slippers. To further sate your fancy for flora identification, try to get your hands on Flora Torres del Paine: Guia del Campo/Field Guide, published by Editorial Fantastico Sur. Photo credits: Christina Cooke,Veronica Irribarra, and Heather Poyhonen.

ButtercupHierba de la Vaca

Ranunculus peduncularis

Mata NegraJunellia tridens

Cadillo/Amor SecoAcaena ovalifolia

Field ChickweedCuernecita/Cerasito

Cerastium arvense

Lady’s SlipperCapachito/Topa-Topa

Calceolaria biflora

Zapatito de la VirgenCalceolaria uniflora

ArvejillaLathyrus magellanicus

Streaked MaidenCamanilla

Olsynium biflorum

Chloraea magellanicaOrquídea Porcelana

Firebush Ciruelillo/Notro

Embothrium coccineum

Growing up wild in Patagonia...



Punta Arenas, Bories Nº 655What you’re looking in outdoors clothes

How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales?

It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh. You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities.

What can I do in Calafate?

Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim).

What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier?

You can’t visit Upsala right now. The waterway is blocked by massive icebergs.

How do I get to/from the Calafate airport?

By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS.

How do the taxis (remises) work?

There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis. You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops.

Where is the information center in Calafate?

The information center is in the bus station.

Can I drink the tap water?

In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water. You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.

Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?

Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.

When are the stores open, anyway?

In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.

What’s the weather like in these parts?

It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer.

Who was Perito Moreno?

Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.

Are there ice hikes on the glacier?

There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice. To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!

Is it safe at night?

Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.

Where can I camp in El Calafate?

There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities. The best one is El Ovejero.

Are there any cheap eating options?

Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for

a reasonable price.

What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include?

Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).

How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?

By bus. It takes about 3.5 hours.

Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?

Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén.

How many people live in El Chaltén?

200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985.

What services are in El Chaltén?

There aren’t any banks, or places to change money. They are installing an ATM, but it still doesn’t have cash, so best to bring your pesos with you. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you.

Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén?

No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leave-no-trace principles.

Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén?

In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff

speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy.

Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre?

In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.

What if I don’t have lodging reservations?

The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village.

How many days should I plan to spend hiking?

You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto.

Where can I camp in El Chaltén?

In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely. There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers.

Will my cell phone work in Chaltén?

Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?

El CalafatE

El Chaltén

questions & answers

Calafate, Argentina Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argen-tino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets

and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Lib-ertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.

POPULATION: 20,000

FOUNDED: 1927

WHAT’S GROOVY:

Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline

JUST IN CASE: 101 (police),

107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)

What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.

How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.

What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.

When’s the latest I can start my trek?

In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos.

Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

What’s the Park entrance fee?

15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD).

How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.

Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.

How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.

Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes. You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though.

What time is sunrise and sunset?

It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter

the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight.

If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first?

Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise?

You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season.

vCan you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s

fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.

Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.

Do I need to tie up my food in the Park?

Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food.

Should I worry about bugs in the Park? Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out.

I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go?

Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W. This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass. After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The right-side trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.)

How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.

questions & answers

Torres del Paine, Chile Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay

long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978

TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares

PAINE GRANDE: 3,050 meters

LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m

FOUL WEATHER GEAR: Essential



BEST NEW STILL WATER 2010Interbev, Florida, USA.

BEST NEW STILL SPARKLING WATER 2010.

BEST NEW STILL WATER 2010Water Innovation Awards, Gleneagles, Scotland.

Aonni’s BirthAonni is born from a a low presure Artessian Aquifer whose data is 10.000 years old. It’s chracter is slightly sweet, smooth to the palate, low in mineral content and with a neutral Ph.

The water burst to the surface in obne of the most virgen places of the World, the Chilean Patagonia, land of the Natives AoniKenk

It’s HistoryThe very first known data regarding the source of origin of our Aonni water, dates back to 1670, when the British Explorer an Navigator: Sir John Narbough on his way from the Atlantic to the Pacific had to refill the sail boat’s tanks with fresh water for the crew, so they could continue their travel, this was on the midst of the Straits of Magullan.

Once thwey tasted the quality of this vital element, finding it to be of a unique freshness and purity, Sir John baptized this bay as “Fresh Water Bay” and untill tose days this is the geographic location where Aonni water is sourced and bottled from.

Located in the East of the Brunswick Peninsula, incide a privately owned land of slightly over 1200 acres totally protected with no industrial activity or human intervention is where Aonni is born, naturally Virgen Water, from the Chilean Patagonia

How do I get to Puerto Varas?

If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD.

Where can I stay without breaking the bank?

There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people.

How should I dress for the climate?

In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.

Will I have any problems with the water or food?

In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.

What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?

That’s Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).

How is the fishing in this area?

Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various

questions & answers

Puerto Varas, Chile Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the

iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.

POPULATION: 22,500FOUNDED: 1854WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo ValleyJUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

questions & answers

Santiago, Chile POPULATION: 5.428.490FOUNDED: February 12, 1541WHAT’S GROOVY: Hick to Cerro ProvinciaJUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

For most visitors, sprawling Santiago de Chile, its mediterranean hillsides, and the snow-covered Andean crest are their first impressions of the country. Santiago may luck Buenos Aires’s international profile, but its finest attractions can match or surpass those of Argentina’s capital. And few world capitals can match the skiing, hiking, climbing and white-water rafting and kayaking that are barely an hour beyond the city limits. Since the return to constitutional government and subsequent economic expansion, the city has improved greatly. Tasteful contemporary apartments have replaced unsalvageable structures in a downtown construction boom. Barrio Bellavista has enjoyed a gastronomic and nightlife boom, and

international commerce flourishes in Las Condes at El Golf. More than a third of all chileans, live in Gran Santiago. The locus of economic and political power, ha capital has grown at the expense of the regions, but unevenly so-some communes (districts), have become prosperous, others remain desperately poor. You have tons of outdoor’s things to do here, like trekking Cerro Provincia staying a night over the city, rock climbing at Cajon del Maipo and enjoying a really nice tour to one of the great local vinyards for ONLY a “little” sip of wine.

Do I want to stay at Santiago for more than a day? Theres much more things to do than what most of guide books tell you. They aren’t bad, but its not a little town, so the must over there o a few steps forward than visiting just the cathedral, the main square and Cerro Santa Lucia.What can I do in Santiago? Go for a trek or a hick, its a valley so there are more than 2 trails to discover. I love the area of Cerro Provincia, you can see everything just getting half the way. You can also go rafting, climbing to Cajon del Maipo, and if

you don’t have much time and you’re dying to do it, there are a few amazing walls near down town.Can I visit a glacier?You are not in Patagonia any more, but actually an hour away you can trek and get to an amazing glacier. How do I get to/from the Santiago airport? You can catch a taxi for $10.000 pesos. Yo can do it also by the airport shuttle, which its cheaper if you are traveling alone, if not just take a taxi.

Where is the information center in Santiago? Go to Providencia near Manuel Montt Metro Station.Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. So bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. What’s the weather like in these parts? Now you will be dying, sweating almost your blood out. At least if you’re getting use to

Patagonia’s weather.Is it safe at night?In most places you will be, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. What are the eating options? You have a lot to discover, but go to Bellavista, walk a bit and find a nice restaurant there. You can alsso find there nice places to chill and party after a great day of hicks, there we can recommend you Bar Constitución at calle Constitución, in the middle of Bellavista.Is it dangerous to walk at nigth alone?Yes. if you are counting travel checks siting on the sidewalk in downtown.

species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout.

What’s the nightlife like?

There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.

Are there any good day hikes in the area?

Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.

What else is there to do?

There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.

What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?

There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.

How can I get around without a car?

In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.


16

march's black sheep travel guide

Documents

s h e e p t r

things patagonia

patagonia chilenamarch

c o mblack sheep

c o m2w w

black sheep issue

fellow travelers

experience culture