maintenance rules - ajp motos usa – light...

Chapter 1 – General information / Technical specifications

Service Manual AJP PR3/PR4 1 - 1

GENERAL SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE RULES

Carbon monoxide If the engine has to work to carry out any operation, make sure the space is ventilated. Do not operate the engine in an closed space.

! DANGER ! The exhaust gas gives off carbon monoxide, a toxic gas which may lead to poisoning and can cause death. Run the engine preferably outdoors. If not possible, do it in a space with a ventilation system connected to the exhaust system. Fuel Fuel is highly flammable and poisonous. Extreme caution should be used when handling fuel. - Do not fill the motorcycle next to flames or lighted cigarettes; - Always stop the engine before refueling; - Be careful not to spill fuel to the engine or exhaust pipe while the engine is hot;

- Clean quickly spilled fuel; - If the fuel is swallowed or contact with eyes, seek medical attention immediately; - Keep children and pets at a distance.

! DANGER ! Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN. Components with high temperatures

! DANGER ! The engine and exhaust system are hot when the engine is running and maintains this high temperature sometime after the engine stops. Use insulated gloves or wait for the engine to cool before handling the engine or exhaust system. Engine oil used Follow the laws in force in your country for collecting and treatment of waste oil. Never dump used oil into the sewer or ground. The oil is extremely toxic and contaminates water and soils.

GENERAL SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE RULES

1 – 1 FUEL FEED SYSTEM 1 – 23

MODEL IDENTIFICATION 1 – 3 STEERING STEM 1 – 25

GENERAL INFORMATION 1 – 4 FRONT SUSPENSION 1 – 26

MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS 1 – 5 REAR SUSPENSION 1 – 34

ENGINE 1 – 6 WHEELS AND TYRES 1 – 36

CLUTCH 1 – 14 BRAKE SYSTEM 1 – 40

BEARINGS, SEALS, WASHERS AND ENGINE BOLTS

1 – 18 ELECTRIC SYSTEM 1 – 43

ALTERNATOR 1 – 20 TIGHTENING TORQUES 1 – 47

STARTER MOTOR 1 – 21 LUBRICATION POINTS AND SEALING

1 – 53



! DANGER ! The engine oil may cause skin cancer if left in contact with the skin repeatedly for a long period of time. Usually it is not necessary to handle used oil every day, but it is recommended that wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling used motor oil. KEEP USED OIL AWAY OF CHILDREN . Brake dust Never use compressed air or a dry brush to clean the brakes.

! DANGER ! Asbestos fibers, if inhaled, can cause respiratory diseases or cancer. Brake fluid Follow the guidelines of your country for collecting and treatment of waste fluid. Never dump into the sewer or ground.

! WARNING ! If the brake fluid is spilled on painted, plastic or rubber parts can damage them. If a spill occurs, immediately flush with water. Put a cover on top of these painted pieces to protect them when handling the brake circuit. KEEP THE BRAKE FLUID AWAY OF CHILDREN. Compressed nitrogen Regarding to shock absorbers with gas reservoir:

! DANGER ! Use only nitrogen to compression of the

shock absorbers. Using an unstable gas may cause a fire or an explosion that can lead to serious injury;

The shock absorbers containing nitrogen under high pressure. Should never be near a flame or heat source, since there are explosion hazards that can lead to serious injury;

Charging a damper with nitrogen carries a risk of explosion which can lead to serious injury if the damper is incorrectly heated or bored.

To avoid risk of explosion, open the valve mechanism and release nitrogen. The remaining oil should be treated according to the environmental legislation. Before you discard a damper, open the valve mechanism and release the nitrogen. MAINTENANCE RULES

1. Use only components and lubricants approved by AJP, or their equivalents. Components that do not meet the requirements of AJP can damage the motorcycle.

2. Use only metric tools to perform maintenance on the motorcycle. The incorrect use of tools or attachments could damage the motorcycle.

3. Always use O-rings, seals and gaskets for new assembly.

4. When any part or component is attached with several bolts (e.g. engine covers, cylinder head, brake discs. sprocket, etc.) begin tightening the inner screw largest diameter, followed by pressing the opposite diagonal, cross or X, gradually increasing the torque to the specified value.

5. Clean the inside of the components with a solvent after disassembly for inspection and lubricate the friction surfaces before proceeding to its assembly.

6. After installation, check that all parts are installed correctly and working.



MODEL IDENTIFICATION SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION The serial number of the frame and / or engine are used for motorcycle registration. They are also used to help your dealer when ordering parts or require any special maintenance information. Frame number The frame number is stamped on the right side of the steering stem tube (1).

Motor number The engine number (1) is marked on the left side of the motor under gear lever.

Approval plate The approval plate (1) is placed in front of the frame on the left side. It has marked the approval number, the serial number of the frame and the sound level at a specified rotation.

TABULATED INFORMATION In the following tables are information on technical data and specifications of the bikes AJP PR3 and PR4. As additional help, may also be included some specifications for the previous models / versions PR3 / PR4.

! WARNING ! Throughout this chapter it is necessary to pay attention that some components may have more than one specification. If you have doubts to identify which is the right specification of your motorcycle, please contact AJP MOTOS.

! WARNING ! All dimensions listed in the following tables are in millimeters (mm) unless otherwise specified.



GENERAL INFORMATION

Element / Item Specification

Engine 125cc 200cc 240cc

Engine (Type) 4 stroke; petrol; 1 cylinder; 2 valves.

Displacement 124cc 198cc 233cc

Power 9,3Kw (12,6Cv) at 8.500rpm

13,2Kw (18Cv) at 8.000rpm

14,7Kw (20Cv) at 8.000rpm

Torque 8,5N.m/8.000rpm 15,5N.m/7.000rpm 18N.m/7.000rpm

Bore and Stroke 56,6x49,5mm 69x53mm 69x62,5mm

Compression ratio 9,0:1 9,2:1 9,4:1

Compression in the cylinder 12,0Kg/cm2 13,0Kg/cm2 14,5Kg/cm2

Valve mechanism 2 Valves, 1 camshaft driven by chain with rocker arm

Valve clearance 0,05 (intake); 0,08 (exhaust)

Intake valve Opens at 5o BTDC Closes at 30o ABDC

Exhaust valve Opens at 35o BBDC Closes at 5o ATDC

Ignition Electronics by CDI

Initial advance of the spark angle 10o BTDC (2.000 +/- 100rpm)

Full advance of spark angle 30o BTDC (4.000 +/- 100rpm) Spark plug (standard) LG D8TC

Spark plug (equivalents) CHAMPION A8YC / NGK DR8ES / DPR8EA-9

Gap between the electrodes 0,6 - 0,7mm

Gear box 5-speed

Clutch 5 Discs/5 springs 5 Discs/4 springs 7 Discs/6 springs

Start Electric / Pedal

CDI unit MD125 – 3B

Ignition coil MGO3A // MGE30

Spark plug cap (equivalents) NGK LB05F / VD05F / YB05F

Alternator 12V monophasic (ACG)

Magnetic flywheel CFW type

Alternator power 12V 120W (0,12Kw / 5.000rpm)

Stator 8-Pole (12V8C)

Rectifier / current regulator MT12V8 – ZO5B (XFT1QO7)

Rectifier type Monophasic / half wave

Starter motor MQ1351-CB 350W



Fuel supply Carburetor

Fuel pump By vacuum (Paiolli)

Fuel tank 6,5 Liters

Lubrication Forced by trochoidal pump

Capacity / debit oil pump > 5,6 Liters/min. at 4.500rpm Flow suction oil pump 0,3 MPa > 5,2 L/min. Maximum temperature of the engine oil 90oC (194ºF)

Maximum oil consumption 8gr/100Km

The engine oil capacity 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters 1,2 Liters

Recommended oil type Eni/Agip i-Ride Moto SAE 20W-50 (API-SG JASO MA,MA2)

Main oil filter Reusable; metal mesh, thimble type

Engine oil replacement The first change should occur at 500Kms. Then every 2000Kms

Cooling Air Air and oil Air and oil

Oil cooler (motor 200/240) GR 125

MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS

PR4 (2001 – 2007)

Element PR4-EN/TR PR4-SM PR4-SM-M

Wheelbase 1410 1320

Seat height 920 910 905

Fuel tank capacity 9 Liters

Weight (dry) 99Kg 99Kg 95Kg

PR3

Element MX MX/PRO EN SM TR Wheelbase 1320 1310 Seat height 860 840 810

Weight (with fuel) (240cm3) 104Kg (108Kg) 107Kg 104Kg (108Kg)

PR4 (2007 – …)

Element EN/TR SM EXTREME Wheelbase 1380

Seat height 920 870 920

Weight (with fuel) (240cm3) 112Kg (113Kg) (119Kg)



ENGINE

LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Element Item Specification Service limit

Lubrication Forced by trochoidal oil pump Z39 Z37 -

Oil capacity Engine 125cc 200/240cc

Replace every 2000km Change / Replace 1 Liter 1,1Liters

When disassembling the engine 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters

Recommended engine oil

Brand ENI-AGIP

Type Classification API: SF ou SG Viscosity: SAE 20W-50

Oil filter Grid, “thimble” type Reusable

Centrifugal filter Rotor on the crankshaft

125/200cc Ø68mm

240cc Ø58mm

Checking the oil level

Display on the right engine cover -

Oil pump

Mandate drive gear

125 (1stversion) Z39 (nylon)

- Z37 (nylon) 200 240 Z37 (steel, with cover)

Pump rotors

125 Outside 8 teeth

23x13mm

- Inside 7 teeth

200/240 Outside 5 teeth

23x13mm

Inside 4 teeth

Clearance in the tip 0,15 0,20

Clearance in the body 0,15 – 0,21 0,35

Clearance in the end 0,03 – 0,12 0,15

Ledge of the rotors cover Aligned with mark on the body of the pump -

Screws in the rotors cover M4x10 -

Tightening of the cap screws 3N.m (0,3Kgf.m) -

Pump chain sprocket cover bolts (engine 240)

M5x20 -

Tightening of the screws on the cover

5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) -

The pump mounting bolts M6x30 -



Tightening of the screws fixing the oil pump 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) -

O-ring seals the pump on the engine crankcase 2 O-rings 9,4x2,4mm -

Oil cooler (On 200/240cm3 engines)

Radiator type (GR 125) Aluminum - Honeycomb radiator dimensions 155x70mm -

Thread M12x1,5 - Racord screws Banjos on the radiator

M12x1,5 - Tightening of the screws M12 racord

29N.m (3,0Kgf.m) -

Sealing rings 12,3x20x16 -

Spacer 10mm -

Radiator fixing screws M6x30 w/ tab -

Oil pipes

Short pipe (output)

Bolt 10mm (or 8mm) tightens on the engine

crankcase -

Bolt 12mm tightens down on oil cooler

-

Long pipe (input)

Screw M10 (or M8x1) tightens on the clutch cover -

Bolt 12mm tightens on top of the oil cooler

-

Sealing washers 8mm 8,2x14,5x1,5 - Sealing washers 10mm 10,2x16x1,2 - Sealing washers 12mm 12,3x20x16 -

CYLINDER HEAD / VALVES / VALVE MECHANISM


Cylinder head

Compression in the cylinder 125cc engine 13,0 kgf/cm2 –

200cc engine 13,2Kgf/cm2 –

240cc engine Warpage of the cylinder head – 0,1mm

Cylinder head height 125 82,65mm –

200/240 81mm –

Gasket thickness of the cylinder head 1,3 - 1,5mm –

I.D. Hole of the cylinder head gasket

125 58mm –

150 63mm –

200/240 70mm –



O-ring on the cap guide (125cc) 10x1,6mm –

Retainer on the oil hole (125cc) Rubber –

Intake valve hole cover on the 240cc engine Lowered 3mm –

Stud on the exhaust manifold

125/150 M8x35 –

200/240 M8x30 –

Valves and valve guides

Valve clearances IN 0,05mm

– EX 0,08mm

Valve stem outside diameter IN 5,450 – 5,465 5,42mm

EX 5,430 – 5,445 5,40mm

Valve stem inside diameter IN/EX 5,475 – 5,485 5,50mm

Clearance on the tab - stem IN 0,010 – 0,035 0,08mm

EX 0,030 – 0,055 0,10mm

Mark on the valves “DC” –

Ø Valves hat

IN 125 30mm

–

200 31,5mm

240 34mm

EX 125 25mm

200 26mm

240 28,5mm

Total height of the valves

IN (125) 91mm –

EX (125) 90,3mm –

IN (200/240) 91,5mm –

EX (200/240) 90,7mm –

Valve seat width IN/EX 1,1 – 1,3mm 1,5mm

Groove height of the retaining loops

125/150 3mm –

200/240 5mm –

Retaining loops position 125/150 Up -

200/240 Down -

Valve springs Length (size) IN/EX

Inside 39x17,5x12,5mm 39,3mm

Outside 44,5x26,5x19mm 43,7mm

Base washers valve springs Inside 18x12,6x0,5mm

– Outside 26x19x1mm

Rocker arms

Rocker arm inside diameter

IN/EX

12,000 – 12,018 12,1mm Came rocker arm outsider diameter 11,966 – 11,984 11,93mm

Clearance 0,016 – 0,052mm 0,084mm

Adjuster thread lead M6x0,75 –

Adjuster nut torque 14N.m (1,4Kgf.m) –



Rock hammer shafts of the valves

125/150 IN/EX Passing fillister Ø12x64mm

–

200/240 IN Low fillister –

EX Deep fillister Ø12x65,3mm –

Lubrication holes IN/EX Ø3mm –

Camshaft

Height of cams 125/200/240 IN 31,58mm 30,6

EX 31,40mm 30,2

Warpage - 31,452 – 31,532 +- 0,1

Outside diameter of the supports

Right 20,00mm –

Left 16,60mm –

Support on the left side Bearing 6203 –

Support on the right side Bushing (20x28x11) –

Valve mechanism

Timing chain 125 4x98 Links

– 200 7x100 Links

240 7x102 Links

Sprocket 125 Z34

– 200 / 240 Z34

Valve mechanism pinion Z17 –

Mounting position of the pinion on the crankshaft Tooth aligned with the keyway –

Sprocket fixing screws 125 M6x10

– 200 / 240 M6x12

Valve mechanism guide-chain tensioner

125 Short (175mm) –

200 Medium –

240 Long –

Timing chain tensioner 125/200/240 Ref. 547 –

Unlocking the tensor Rotate right –

Screws torque 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) –

Pivot screw of the tensor guide 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) – Screw in the protection of the timing chain in the crankshaft 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) –

Tensioner bolts 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) –

Tensioner cover 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) –



CYLINDER AND PISTON


Cylinder

Inside diameter 125 56,50 – 56,51 mm 56,60 mm

200/240 69,00 – 69,01 mm 69,10 mm

Inclination 15º –

Roundness – 0,05 mm

Warpage – 0,05 mm

Cylinder height (between the lower face and upper surface)

125 68,0mm -

150 68,5mm -

200 70,2mm -

240 77,2mm -

Cylinder gasket thickness 0,50mm -

Piston and segments

Direction of the piston mark Marking "IN"

pointing to the intake

–

Outer diameter of the piston

125 56,470 – 56,490 56,40 mm

150 (kit) 60,970 – 60,990 60,80mm

200/240 68,970 – 68,990 mm (10 mm from the bottom of the

skirt)

68,80 mm

Clearance cylinder / piston 0,010 – 0,040 0,20 mm

Piston pin 125 Ø15x10x48 -

150 (kit) Ø15x10x50 -

200/240 Ø17x12x55mm -

Inside diameter of the pin hole 125 15,002 – 15,008 15,04mm

200/240 17,002 – 17,008 17,04mm

Outer diameter of the pin came 125 14,994 – 15,000 14,96 mm

200/240 17,994 – 17,000 16,96 mm

Clearance piston hole / pin came 0,002 – 0,014 0,02 mm

Clearance rod hole / pin 0,010 – 0,034 0,10 mm

Segment width 125/150 1,0mm -

200 1,0mm -

240 1,2mm -

Clearance of the segments in the piston channel

Top 0,025 – 0,060 0,09 mm

Secondary 0,015 – 0,050 0,08 mm

Clearance at the end of the segments

Top 0,20 – 0,35 0,5 mm

Secondary 0,35 – 0,50 0,65 mm



Oil (rail side) 0,20 – 0,70 0,9 mm

Mounting position of the segments in the piston

Grey (DY) Up -

Black (D) Down -

Oil Facing the exhaust -

Gap between the ends of the cylinder segments 120º -

CRANKSHAFT

Element Specification Service limit

Crankshaft stroke 125 49,5mm –

200 53,0mm –

240 62,5mm –

Crankshaft mounting dimension 55mm –

Diameter of the right crankshaft body (125) 111mm –

Diameter of the left crankshaft body (125) 103mm –

Diameter of the crankshaft body (engine 200/240) 111mm –

Shaft diameter left / wheel side 20mm / 22mm –

Total length of the crankshaft 210mm –

Threaded on the right side M16x1 –

Threaded on the left for the flywheel (1st version) M8x1,25 or M10x1 –

Connecting rod radial clearance 0,000 – 0,008 0,05mm

Connecting rod lateral clearance 0,05 – 0,30 0,80mm

Connecting rod lateral clearance on the crankshaft – 0,60mm

Backhand Stroke of the crankshaft – 0,03mm

Pin size rod / crankshaft 30x54mm –

Bearing of the connecting rod foot side 30x38x18mm –

125 Connecting rod

Distance between holes 103,5mm 103,66mm

I.D. Hole of the connecting rod bottom side 38mm 38,08mm

I.D. Hole of the connecting rod top side 15mm 15,08mm

Width of the connecting rod 18mm -

Pin in the connecting rod / crankshaft 30x54mm -

Bearing of the connecting rod bottom 30x38x18mm -

200 Connecting rod

Distance between holes 103,5mm 103,66mm






Pin in the connecting rod / crankshaft Ø30x54mm -

Bearing of the connecting rod foot 30x38x18mm -

Dimensions of the rollers Ø4x14,7mm -

240 Connecting rod

Distance between holes 105mm 105,16mm




Pin in the connecting rod / crankshaft Ø32x54mm -

Bearing of the connecting rod foot 32x41x18 -

Dimensions of the rollers Ø4,5x14,7mm -

GEAR BOX


Gear box ratio Primary transmission By gears -

125 Engine

Primary reduction Z73/Z18 (4,055) -

1st (secondary/primary) Z36/Z13 (2,769) -

2nd Z32/Z17 (1,882) -

3rd Z28/Z20 (1,400) -

4th Z26/Z23 (1,130) -

5th Z24/Z25 (0,960) -

200 Engine



2nd Z32/Z17 (1,882) -

3rd Z28/Z20 (1,400) -

4th Z26/Z23 (1,130) -

5th Z24/Z25 (0,960) -

240 Engine



2nd Z28/Z15 (1,866) -

3rd Z25/Z18 (1,388) -

4th Z23/Z20 (1,150) -

5th Z21/Z22 (0,954) -



Final transmission By chain - Drive sprocket (standard) 1Z5 -

Drive sprocket (optional) Z14 / Z16 / Z17 -

Drive sprocket PR4-Brazil / Extreme 520 – Z12 -

Sprocket PR3 Z46 -

Sprocket PR4 Z48/Z50 -

Sprocket PR4-Brazil / Extreme Z46 (Aluminum 7075 – 46) step 520 -

Chain PR3 428H – 124 Links -

Chain PR4 428H - 132 Links -

Chain PR4-Brazil / Extreme Step 520 -

Dimensions

Gears inside diameter (125_200/240)

M5 (Z25 / Z22) 23,020 – 23,041 - C1 (Z36 / Z32) 19,520 – 19,541 - C2 – 125/200 (Z32) 23,020 – 23,041 - C2 – 240 (Z28) 22,020 – 22,041 - C3 (Z28 / Z23) 22,020 – 22,041 - C4 (Z26 / Z21) 20,020 – 20,041 - C5 (Z24 / Z21) 20,020 – 20,041 -

Bushings in the secondary gears

C1 (16,5x19,5x7,3) I.D. 16,516 – 16,534 -

O.D. 19,479 – 19,500 -

C2 (22x25x10) not existing in 240 engine

I.D. 22,000 – 22,021 -

O.D. 24,979 – 25,000 -

Starter sprocket (16,5x20x7,8) O.D. 19,959 – 19,980 -

Outer diameter primary shaft

M5 (Z13 / Z11) 19,959 – 19,980 - Outer sleeve guide clutch 19,959 – 19,980 -

Outer diameter secondary shaft

Starter sprocket (Z29) 14,966 – 14,984 - C1 17,966 – 17,984 - C2, C4 21,959 – 21,980 - C1 0,020 – 0,062 - C2 0,020 – 0,062 - C3 0,020 – 0,062 -

Pinion-shaft clearance M5, C4 0,020 – 0,062 -

Bushing-shaft clearance C1 0,016 – 0,052 -

C2 (125/200) 0,020 – 0,062 - Startup wheel (Z29) 14,966 – 14,984 -



Gear shift drum O.D. on the drum in support of the position on the left crankcase 12.975 – 12.990 -

O.D. on the drum in support of the position on the right crankcase 19,959 – 19,980 -

Distance between lateral supports 82,00 mm -

Total length of the drum 106,8 mm -

Width of the drum channels 7,25 mm -

Forks, came forks, gearshift linkage

Forks

I.D. hole 12,000 – 12,021 12,05mm

Thickness of the fork

Right 4,93 – 5,00 4,70mm Left

Center Thickness of the forks claw on the gears 5,3mm -

Forks pin diameter on the drum 7mm -

Forks shaft Ø12x110,5mm -

O.D. fork shaft 11,966 – 11,984 11,90

O.D. shaft gearshift linkage 14 -

CLUTCH FOUR CLUTCH SPRINGS (ENGINES 125/200Cm3)

Item Specifications Service limit

Engines equipped with four clutch springs ZS156FMI-2A (125Cm3) / ZS169YML (200Cm3) -

Number of clutch plates (coated) 5 -

Thickness of the coated discs 3,0mm 2,85mm

Inside diameter of the coated discs 91mm -

Outer diameter of the coated discs 109,5mm 110mm

The ridges outer diameter of the coated discs 118,5mm -

Number of exterior ridges 8 -

Width of the ridges in the coated discs 16mm -

Width of the cutouts in the clutch basket 16,2mm 16,5mm

Number of separator discs (plate) 4 -

Disc plate thickness 1,6mm 1,5mm

Maximum permissible warping in the separators discs - 0,2mm

Outer diameter of the plate discs 110mm -

Larger inner diameter of the plate discs 90mm -

Smaller inner diameter of the plate discs 82mm -



Number of teeth in the separators discs 25 -

Width of teeth on drive plate 5,6mm -

Cut width in the plate disc 6,3mm -

Thickness of the coated discs 5 + 4 plate discs 21,5mm 21,4mm

Clutch hub Thickness 4,60mm 4,50mm

Hub height in grooved zone 26,0mm -

Total height of the hub 30,4mm -

Hub / pressure plate outer diameter 110mm -

The thickness of the pressure plate 9,70mm 9,60mm

Inside diameter of the hole in the pressure plate 38mm -

Total thickness of all the four springs clutch 35,5mm -

Normal length of the springs 35,2mm 33,5mm

Springs dimensions Ø18,5x35,2x13,3mm -

Pressure plate screws M6x22 -

Tightening torque of the screws on the table 1,2Kgf.m (12N.m) -

Clutch fixing on the primary shaft Castle nut (M16x1) -

Locking ring with retaining tabs (engine 200/240) -

Mounting position of the taper washer “Outside” out -

Clutch nut torque 93 N.m (9,5 Kgf.m) -

Clutch thrust bearing 16003 -

Stud pressure Simple -

FIVE CLUTCH SPRINGS (ENGINES 125/200Cm3)


Engines equipped with five clutch springs ZS156FMI-2A (125cm3 – 2012…) -

Number of clutch plates (coated) 5 -









Disc plate thickness 1,6mm 1,5mm










Thickness of the coated discs 5 + 4 plate discs 21,2mm 21,0mm



Height of threaded bolts on the five springs hub 31mm -

Total height of the hub 34,8mm -


Thickness of the five springs pressure plate 9,6mm 9,5mm


Mounting position of the plate on the five springs hub With aligned points -

Total thickness of all the five clutch springs 35,2mm 34,8mm

Springs dimensions Ø18,5x35,2x13,3 -

Normal length of the springs 35,2mm 33,3mm

Pressure plate screws M6x22 -

Tightening torque of the screws on the plate 1,2kgf.m (12N.m) -

Clutch fixing on the primary shaft Castle nut (M16x1) -

Locking ring with retaining tabs (engine 200/240) -

Mounting position of the taper ring “Outside” out -

Clutch nut torque 93 N.m (9,5 Kgf.m) -


Stud pressure in the five clutch springs Linked with pin -

SIX CLUTCH SPRINGS (ENGINE 240CM3)


Engine equipped with six clutch springs ZS169YMM (240Cm3 2013…)

-

Coated clutch discs HMC - 301 -

Number of coated discs 7 -











Disc plate thickness 1,20 – 1,15mm 1,10mm








Thickness of the coated discs 7 + 6 discs plate 27,3mm -

Minimum width of the box between hub and clutch plate 25,6mm -



Outside diameter of the grooved central ridge 39,95mm -

Hub height (aluminum) 38,85mm -

Total height of the hub clutch 40mm -


Thickness of the pressure plate 9,0mm 8,85mm


Height of the threaded bolts on the six springs plate 32,1mm -

Diameter of M5 bolts Ø10,7mm -

Total height of the pressure plate 34,9mm -

Total thickness of all the six clutch springs 39,7mm -

Normal length of the springs 35mm 33,5mm

Dimensions of the springs (with 6/7 turns) Ø17x35x12mm -

Pressure table screws M5x22 -

Tightening torque of the screws on the table 0,8kgf.m (8N.m) -

Fixing six clutch springs on the primary shaft Circlip 18mm -


Stud pressure Simple -

Sprocket / basket clutch Z70 -

Basket clutch With 8 + 8 cuts -

Total height of the clutch basket (outer) 41,9mm -

Inside height the basket clutch 39,5mm -



Height of the long cutouts 33,4mm -

Height of the short cutouts 8,8mm -

Width of the cutouts on the clutch basket 16,15mm 16,5mm

Total height of the basket with the clutch sprocket 61,5mm -

Height in the center basket / clutch sprocket 20,90mm -

Outer diameter of the clutch basket 120mm -

Inside diameter of the clutch basket 112mm -

Distance ring behind the clutch sprocket 30x42x1 -

Clutch lever Long -

Lever seal on the clutch cover O-rings -

Pin spring retaining on the clutch lever Elastic pin -

Pin mounting position on the lever Protruding 4,7mm -

Gap of the protrusions of the first coated disc On the lower cutouts -

Ring to fix the clearance on the pressure stud with 1.5mm discs 1.00mm thickness -

BEARINGS, SEALS, WASHERS AND ENGINE BOLTS

Component Dimensions Crankshaft bearings 63/28 C3 (28x68x18) Right crankcase bearing on the primary shaft 6006 Left crankcase bearing on the primary shaft 6202Z Left crankcase bearing on the secondary shaft 6204 Right crankcase bearing on the secondary shaft HK152315 Thrust bearing in the clutch 16003 Bearings / bushings of the start-up reductions support HK101410 Camshaft Bearing 6203 Secondary shaft seal (pinion) 20x34x7 Gearshift shaft seal 14x28x7 Kick starter shaft seal 16x28x7 Sealing rings on the oil pump Ó-rings 9,4x2,4 Sealing ring at the start reduction cover 63x3 Sealing ring camshaft cover 75x2,65 Seal ring in the valve caps 35x3 Sealing ring in the oil filter cover 35x3

Sealing ring in the oil cap on the clutch cover 18x3

Sealing rings on the clutch lever 9x1,8

Sealing ring in the cylinder/cylinder head bushing guide (125) 10x1,6

Rectangular seal (200/240) 8x14x2,5 / 5,3x14x2,8



Sealing ring in the neutral contact 7x1,7 Sealing ring in the timing chain tensioner cover 9x1,8 Sealing ring on the bolt kicks stopper 11,8x2,65 Screw sealing ring of the phase inspection hole of the engine 13,8x2,5 Screw sealing ring of the flywheel/crankshaft hole 27,4x2,4 Sealing ring on the start motor phalange 25x3 Sealing ring on the bolts of the starter cover 4x2

Rectangular seal on the cylinder head pin (200/240) Rubber bushing with two tabs Flat rubber washer

Stamped rectangular seal ring on the cylinder head pin With tab Aluminum washer to seal the pivot bolt tensioner guide 8,5x14x1,5 Copper washer to seal the exhaust manifold 31,8x38,6x1,6 Special washers to gearbox C1 washers on the secondary shaft 16,5x24x0,5 C2 washers on the secondary shaft 20x27x1 C1 washer on the primary shaft 15,2x25x1 Sprocket ribbed washers on the gears shaft 20x17,3x26x1,6 Starter sprocket washer on the primary shaft 20,5x27x0,5 Starter sprocket washer on the secondary shaft 15,2x30x1 Washer at the end of the kicks shaft 12,2x17,9x1 Washers of the shaft in the startup reductions 10,5x17,7x0,5 Distance washer from the clutch sprocket 240 30x42x0,5 Washer pitch of the clutch pressure pin 17x24x1 Ring on the flywheel bolt 10,5x23,6x2,4 Dimensions of the cylinder / cylinder head studs

Cylinder studs on the right crankcase (125cc engine) Intake side

Ø6,5x212mm Exhaust side

Ø8,5x212mm

Cylinder studs on the left crankcase (125cc engine) Ø8,5x224mm



Ø8,5x215mm Cylinder studs on the left crankcase (200cc engine) Ø8,5x229mm



Ø8,5x222mm Cylinder studs on the left crankcase (240cc engine) Ø8,5x235mm

Screw of the valve mechanism chamber 125cc M6x110 200cc M6x113 240cc M6x120



ALTERNATOR


Alternator 12V monophasic (ACG) -

Alternator power 12V 120W (0,12Kw / 5000rpm) -

Rectifier / current regulator MT12V8 – ZO5B (XFT1QO7) -

Rectifier type Monophasic / half wave -

Magnetic flywheel Type CFW -

Rotor puller thread lead M28x1 (right) -

Inside diameter of the flywheel 91mm -

Outside diameter of the flywheel 111.5mm -

Outer cam height 1,6 – 2,0mm -

Clearance between the cam and the pick-up 14mm (+/-) -

Clearance between the stator and flywheel 1mm (+/-) -

Manufacturer reference of the neutral position “T” -

Manufacturer reference of the ignition point advance “F” -

Rotational direction of the magnetic flywheel Counterclockwise -

Flywheel fixing bolt on the crankshaft M8x1.25x35 or M10x1x40 -

Washer of the flywheel bolt 8,5x24x3,5 or 10,5x23,6x2,4 -

M8 bolt tightening of the flywheel M8 32.m (3,2Kgf.m) -

M10 bolt tightening of the flywheel M10 39N.m (4,0Kgf.m) -

Stator 8 Poles (12V8C) -

Stator outside diameter 89mm -

Stator inside diameter 29mm -

Stator height 29mm -

Distance between the stator and the pick-up 15mm -

Fixing holes 6,3mm (x2) -

Stator fixing on the engine cover M6x30 w/phalange -

Pick-up fixing screws PH M4x12 -



STARTER MOTOR

Element / Item Engine Service limit 125/200 240

Starter motor Z71BB11CB125D (AHO511)

Z237C10CB200-3 #E -

Induced resistance 0,6Ω 0,3 – 0,6Ω

Diameter on the induced core 40,8mm 46,0mm -

Total length of the shaft 152mm 152,5mm -

Diameter of the shaft (on the side of the teeth) 13,5mm 15mm -

Diameter of the shaft (on the collector side brushes) 9mm -

Diameter induced brushes switch 125/200 engine 22,5mm - 20mm

Diameter induced brushes switch 240 engine - 28,2mm 26,0mm

Number of layers on the copper collector 10 21 -

Number of coal brushes 2 -

Length of the brushes 12mm 10,5mm 6,5mm

Dimensions of the brushes 8,5x6x12 10x6x10,5 -

Diameter of the brushes plate 56mm 58,9x28,4mm -

Brush springs 2 -

Magnetic housing 2 Magnets 4 Magnets -

Outer diameter of the magnetic housing 62,5mm 62,5mm -

Inside diameter of the housing magnets 41,8mm 46,8mm -

Length of the magnetic housing 67mm -

Brushes screw terminal (square head) M6x25 -

Terminal screw internal insulator Bakelite (square) -

Terminal screw external insulator (bushing) Bakelite (round) -

Ò-ring outer sealing of the terminal screw 5x2 - Inside washer on the top of the shaft (right side / brushes) 9,2x18x0,5 9,2x18x0,8 -

Induced shaft washer (side grooves / left) 14,1x24,8x0,5 15,1x23x0,5 -

Start motor cover seal O-ring 55x1,5 59x1,9 (rectangular)

Left cover shaft seal 13,5x24x6 15x25x5 Retaining washer of the seal on the left cover (125cc) 13,7x28x1,6 -

Retention washer with tabs on the left side (240cc) - 16,5x30x1x5 -

Sealing ring of the starter covers 53x1,5 59x1,9mm - Seal in the cap bolts Ó-ring 4x2 3,5x1,5 -

Screw caps / motor housing M5x90 (PH) -

Hole cover of the starter (2nd version) 9,3x5 (10x6,8) 9,1x3,6mm -



Ò-ring sealing of the starter phalange 25x3mm -

Assembly position of the right cover Fillister aligned with the protrusion on the brushes plate -

Marks on the magnetic housing Face down, aligned w /

brand on the right cover

Facing upwards -

Rotational direction of the starter Clockwise -

Gears starter system Number of teeth on the shaft of the starter motor Z10 Z11 -

Number of teeth of the primary starter reduction Z61/Z21 Z60/Z24 -

Number of teeth of the secondary starter reduction Z15/Z16 Z15/Z22 -

Starter sprocket

Number of teeth Z56 Outside diameter of the tsprocket on the sprocket starter

54,20mm 42,20mm - 0,2mm

Inner diameter of the sprocket bushing 20 or 22mm 22mm + 0,1mm

Distance ring from the sprocket to the crankshaft (Ø20) 20,2x31,8x3,5 - -

Distance ring from the sprocket to the crankshaft (Ø22) 22,1x34x3,5 -

Starter clutch

In the flywheel 3 cylindrical roller

One-way bearing -

Starter clutch rollers 10,2x11,5 mm - 10mm

Spring rollers 3,85x30 mm - 25mm

Spring rollers cover 4x5,3x10,8 mm - -

One-way bearing - WJS1210 20 rollers -

I.D. of the starter clutch body - 58,8mm -

O.D. of the starter clutch body - 87,75mm -

I.D. of the fillister fit on the flywheel - 84,80mm -

Flywheel fixing screws DIN 912 M8x16

Tightening of the fixing screws 14 – 17 N.m. (1,4 – 1,7 Kgf.m) Starter gear In the primary shaft Z19

In the secondary shaft Z29 Starter gear sleeve of the secondary shaft 16,5x20x7,8

In the kick shaft Z29



FUEL FEED SYSTEM

FUEL FEED SYSTEM PIPES

Element Specification Service limit Outlet pipe between tank / filter Ø9x5x220mm - Outlet pipe between filter / pump Ø9x5x220mm - Outlet pipe between pump / bypass T Ø9x5x170mm - Supply pipe between T / carburetor Ø9x5x60mm - Return pipe between T / tank Ø9x5x385mm - Vacuum pipe between pump / nozzle inlet Ø9x5x210mm - Gasoline filter IDEAL 6mm -



SPECIFICATIONS FOR CARBURETORS ADJUSTMENT

Model /Version (Year)

PR4-125

(2001 / 2004)

PR4-200

(2005 / 2008)

PR3 125/200 Catalyst (2009)

PR3-200 Catalyst

(2009/2011)

PR3/PR4125/200

MX (2009)

PR3/PR4 MX

(France) (2010/ 2011)

PR3/PR4 MX

(Brazil) (2012 – today)

PR4-240 Extreme (2015)

Carburetor SHENG

WEI PD5

Walbro PZ30

SHENG WEI PD5 Walbro PZ30 Walbro

PZ30 DEKNI PZ30

DEKNI PZ30

DEKNI PZ30

Venturi diameter 26mm 30mm 26mm 30mm 30mm 30mm 30mm 30mm

Main jet # 115 (# 118) # 120 # 95 # 95 # 110 # 110 # 105 # 110

Idle jet # 50 # 50 # 45 # 45 # 50 # 45 # 48 # 48

Air screw 1.5 turns 2 turns 3/4 turn 1 turn 2 turns 1.5 turns 2.5 turns 1.5 turns

Needle Bridle 1st slot 3rd slot

Piston Needle 125KA AAA 125KA AAA CC

Needle diffuser M7x M7x

5+5+2+2 Top diffuser Ø2,66 cylinder Accelerator piston

O1C Ø22

CO Ø24 O1C Ø22 CO

Ø24 O-ring phalange 29x2,5 34x2 29x2,5 34x2 33,5x2,5

Float K 22-8 SF 172-2 K 22-8 SF 172-2

Valve seat hole Ø2,0mm

Float level 12mm 14mm Conical valve float Ø5,2x17

Float axis Ø2,5x25 Power jet pump Yes

Rings in the arm - 2 - 2 -

O-ring from the vat 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5

O-ring air screw 2,5x1

O-ring on the drain screw vat

4x1,2

Breather pipe 4x6,5x370

Air tab (chok) By cable Manual

Ring air tab - - - 5,3x9,8x0,9 Idling speed (rpm) 1400(+/-100rpm)



STEERING STEM

Element Specification Service limit Bearings type Conical -

Bearings of the steering column 1st Version 6205RS / 32005C or 32005C (x2) -

Bearings seals 1st Version Nylon Washer 25x51,5x1,6 or 25x52x4,5x0,5

-

Preload of the steering column bearings 0,4 – 0,6kgf.m -

Steering column adjustment nut (in castle) M25x1 -

Table top nut (30mm hex) M25x1 -

Steering stem shaft

PR3 (PAIOLI 36mm)

Steel, M25x1 -

PR4 (PAIOLI 41mm) Steel, M25x1 - PR3 (FASTACE 38mm)

Outer thread M25x1 -

PR4 (Marzocchi 40mm) Inner thread M20x1,50 -

Upper triple clamp screw Fastace M8x40 -

Lower triple clam screw Fastace M8x25

Triple clamp tightening Fastace 22N.m (2,2Kgf.m) -

Screw of the shaft / table PR4 fork (Marzocchi 40mm) M20x1,5 -

Washer of the screw / triple clamp shaft (Marzocchi 40mm) 20x40x3 -

Washer of the lower bearing PR4 (Marzocchi 40mm) 25x35x1,5 -

Triple clamp screw (Marzocchi 40mm) M8x40 w/phalange -

Triple clamp tightening (Marzocchi 40mm) 22N.m (2,2Kgf.m) -

Screws of the handlebar clamps on triple clamp (Marzocchi 40mm) M10x60 w/ nut -

Handlebar clamps on triple clamp tightening(Marzocchi 40mm) 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m) -

Shaft of the steering column (PR4-Special Edition/EXTREME)

Anodized aluminum (M25x1) -

Hole plug on the shaft of the steering stem PVC -

Upper EXTREME triple clamp (anodized aluminum) Hole Ø 54mm -

Lower EXTREME triple clamp (anodized aluminum) Hole Ø 59mm -

Special screws in EXTREME triple clamp M8x20 -

Upper triple clamp tightening 18N.m (1,8Kgf.m) -

Lower triple clamp tightening 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m) -

Handlebar clamps AJP / REIKON Ø 29MM -

Screws of the handlebar clamps M12 -

Handlebar EN/SM/TR REIKON 9007 BK -

EXTREME REIKON 9017 BK -



FRONT SUSPENSION

Element Specification Service limit Front wheel axle PR3 (FASTACE fork) M14x1,5 (galvanized steel) -

Front wheel axle PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL M14x1,5 (galvanized steel) -

Front wheel axle PR4 EXTREME M20x1,5 (anodized aluminum)

Warping of the front axle - 0,2

Threaded bushing / front wheel shaft EN/SM

Length 73mm (M20x1,5) - Mounting position in the Sachs fork 3mm protruding out -

Threaded bushing / front wheel shaft Extreme

Length 65mm (M20x1,5) - Mounting position in the Marzocchi fork 10mm protruding out -

PR3-MX/PRO fork (2007 – 2009) MARZOCCHI SHIVER 45 - Type Up Side Down -

Forks (finishing) Black (DLC coating) -

Diameter of the fork 45mm -

Dimensions of the fork Ø45x500mm -

Cover fork torque 30N.m (3,0Kgf.m) -

Tightening of the pipes / fork in door-axis 150N.m (15Kgf.m) -

Seals retainers 45x58x11 -

Dust seals scrapers 45x58,5x13 -

Fork springs 435mm -

Dimensions of the springs Ø40x30,5x435mm -

Wire thickness of the springs 4,5mm -

Springs constant K =45 N/m (4,6Kgf/mm) -

Preload plug of the springs 25mm -

Dimensions of the preload plug (nylon) Ø39,5x32x25mm -

Oil quantity in each fork 610ml -

Oil level in the hydraulic (fork all down) 120mm (+/- 2,5mm) -

Hydraulic oil type ENI/AGIP Fork SAE 7,5W -

Vase / exterior fork tube Anodized (black) -

Forks hole in the lower triple clamp Ø57mm -

Forks hole in the upper triple clamp Ø53mm -

Tightening of the forks on the triple clamp 18N.m (1,8Kgf.m) -

Sphere on the hydraulic adjustment rod Ø5mm -

Hydraulic stroke 250mm -

Maximum length 829mm (+/- 2%) -



Average length (no load) 824mm (+/- 2%) -

Minimum length 574mm (with fork down) -

Adjuster function on the forks cover Extension -

Adjuster function at the bottom of the forks Compression -

Standard adjustment Compression (on top)

12 Clicks (Since all tight)

-

Extension (on the bottom)


-

PR3-EN/SM fork (2009 - 2011) PAIOLI 36mm -

Type Mechanical, conventional -

Height (between the cover of the forks and the wheel axle) 850mm (+/-3%) -

Forks Ø36mm (hard chrome) -

Dimensions of the forks Ø36x684mm -

Seals retainers 36x48x11 -

Seals scrapers 36x48,5x13 -

Quantity of oil in the hydraulic 300ml -

Recommended oil type ENI/AGIP Fork SAE 10W -


Dimensions of the springs Ø29x560x21mm -

Wire thickness of the springs 4mm -

Springs constant K=40N/mm (4,1Kgf/mm)

Preload plug of the springs H = 70mm -

Dimensions of the preload plug Ø30x70x24mm -

Limit spring (extension) 27mm -

Cover forks M32x1.5 (Hexag.22mm) -

O-ring in the fork cover 26x3,5 -

Tightening torque of the forks cover 19 – 24N.m (2 – 2,5Kgf.m) -

Piston port-segments of the hydraulic Ø27x30,6x14mm -

Hydraulic piston segment (red) 9,2mm (nylon) -

Hydraulic piston tube / rod Ø16x315mm -

Upper oil passage holes in the tube Ø2,5mm (x2) -

Lower oil passage holes in the tube Ø4,7mm (x4) -

Cone at the lower end of the hydraulic tube 16,2x20x33mm -

Cone centering washer at the end of the tube hidráulicthe o

25x51,5x1,6mm -



Lower fork retaining screw DIN 912 M12x35 -

Sealing washer in the bottom of the fork screw Copper (12,2x18,6x1,2) -

Torque of the lower retaining screw 36N.m (3,7Kgf.m) -

Forks fixing screw on the lower triple clamp (T) DIN 912 M6x35

Forks torque in the lower triple clamp 12N.m (12Kgf.m) -

Forks fixing screws at the upper triple clamp UNI 5737 M8x40 -

Forks torque at the lower triple clamp 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -

Screws in the handlebar clamps DIN 912 M8x30 -

Torque of the handlebar clamps 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -

Wheel axle fixing bolts DIN 912 M3x20 -

Torque of the wheel axle retaining screws 10N.m (10Kgf.m) -

Bellows protection forks (optional) Polisport (DTR 125 type) -

PR4-EN/SM/TRAIL fork (2001 – 2010) PAIOLI 41mm - Type Hydraulic -

Maximum stroke 260mm -

Height (between the cover of the forks and the wheel axle)

890mm (+/-3%) -

Forks Ø41mm (hard chrome) -

Dimensions of the forks Ø41x700x36mm -

Seals retainers 41x53x10,5 -

Seals scrapers 41x53,5x13 -

Quantity of oil in the hydraulic 430ml -

Oil level (with fork whole down) 190mm -

Recommended oil type ENI/AGIP Fork SAE 10W -


Dimensions of the springs 35x24,5x557 -

Wire thickness of the springs 5mm -

Springs constant K = 42N/mm (4,3Kgf/mm) -

Preload bushing on the springs H = 38mm -

Dimensions of the bushing / pre-load plug 32x35x38 -

Tabbed washer between the preload plug and the spring

21,4x35,3x1,6x5,8

Forks cover (Hexagonal 24mm) M38x1 -

O-ring in the fork cover 41x2,5mm -

Torque of the forks cover 24N.m (2,5Kgf.m) -

Limit spring (extension) 37,5mm (24,7x32,5x37,5)

Piston port-segments of the hydraulic 33mm -



Hydraulic piston segment (nylon) 6mm -

Hydraulic piston tube / rod M14x1,5 (Ø22x333) -

Upper oil passage holes in the tube Ø2,5mm (x1) -

Lower oil passage holes in the tube Ø5mm (x2) -

Plug / cone at the end of the hydraulic tube 22x28x35mm -

Bridle inside the forks Seeger JV32 -

Lower fork retaining screw DIN 912 M14x1.5x25 -

Sealing washer in the screw of the bottom of the fork

14,5x20x1,5 (copper) -

Torque of the lower retaining screw 30 – 32N.m (3,0 – 3,2Kgf.m) -

Screws of the forks in the lower triple clamp (T) DIN 7984 M8x45 -

Screws of the forks at the upper triple clamp DIN 7984 M8x40 -

Forks torque on the tables 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -

Screws of the handlebar clamps UNI 5931 M8x30 -

Torque of the handlebar clamps 25N.m (2,4Kgf.m) -

Wheel axle fixing bolts DIN 912 M6x35 -

Torque of the wheel axle retaining screws 10N.m (10Kgf.m) -

Bellows protection of forks (optional) Polisport (DTR 125 type) -

PR3-EN/PRO/MX/SM/TRAIL fork (2012 - …) FASTACE

Fork type Up Side Down, 38mm -

Forks Ø38mm (chrome) -

Dimensions of the forks 38x545mm -

Passage hole in the oil forks 4 (Ø5mm) -

Tubes of the outer forks 530mm (anodized, black) -

Dimensions of the outer forks tube Ø51x48x38x530 -

Maximum warpage of the tubes / forks fork - 0,2

Forks covers M42x1.25 (Hexag.30mm) -

O-ring on the forks covers 38x2,54 -

Seal oil retainer 38x49x10 -

ID retainer NR9933 (PI4) -

Seal scraper 38x49,3x14,5 -

Scraper ID NR9962 XICY (PIA) -

Retaining ring bushing guide fork (rectangular) 50x1,8x1,9mm -

Washer retaining fork bushing guide 39,5x48,6x2mm -

Lower Bushing guide (TEFLON coated) Ø38x42x23,8mm -

Upper Bushing guide (TEFLON coated) Ø36x38,2x11,8mm -



Screw purge air in the fork cover M5x6 -

O-ring of the air purge screw 4,8x1,8 -

Limiting ring of the forks protections 50x2mm -

Fork / lower valve fixing nut M18x1 (Hexag. 19mm) -

Sealing ring of the fixing nut lower forks 18x2,35 -

Spring fork (no load) 402mm -

Dimensions of the springs Ø31,2x402x22,5mm -

Wire thickness of the springs 4,25mm -

Installed spring length in the cartridge 397mm -

Nylon bushing on the rod of the hydraulic cartridge Ø12x120x22,6mm -

Fine spring separator on the cartridge rod 60mm (Ø17x14x60) -

Aluminum adjuster inside the rod M12 (18mm height) -

Distance between the adjuster on the rod and fork cover

81,5mm -

O-rings seals of the adjuster in the fork cover 4,5x1,9 -

Ball fixer of the adjuster position 3mm -

Rod / needle aluminum hydraulic regulation Ø4x45x433mm -

Hydraulic cartridge tube M22x1 (Ø25x390x22) -

Valve thread pitch on the cartridge tube M12 -

Oil quantity (in each fork) 355ml -

Recommended oil AGIP FORK SAE 5W -

Function of the fork adjusters

In the fork covers Return (extension) -

Tight (F) Slower return - Loosened (S) Faster return -

At the bottom of the fork Compression -

Tight Harder -

Loosened Softer -

Standard regulation FASTACE

Return (on top) 2 Clicks (Since all tight) -

Compression (on the bottom)


-

PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL fork (2012) MARZOCCHI USD 40mm - Type Up side down -

Forks of the fork Ø 40x610mm -

Tubes of the outer forks 568mm -

Maximum warpage of the tubes / forks of the fork - 0,2



Spring length (no load) 480mm -

Length of the springs (installed w / preload) 470mm -

Spring constant 40N/mm (4,1Kgf/mm) -

Dimensions of the fork springs Ø34,5x480x25,6mm -

Springs preload bushing Ø 40x65mm (nylon) -

Spring preload 10mm -

Oil seals retainers of the forks 40x52x10,6 -

Seals dust scrapers 40x52,5x4,9x14 -

Retaining ring of the seals Ø 41,2x51,6x3mm -

Holding bridle of the seals (rectangular) Ø55,5x51,6x1,3mm -

Fork cover M45x1,25 (hexagonal 30mm) -

O-ring of the fork cover 40x3,5 -

Fork cover torque 2,5Kgf,m -

Hydraulic cartridge tube Ø28x350mm -

Rod / piston of the hydraulic cartridge M12x1 Ø12x590 (aluminum) -

M12x1 adjustment nut on the rod end 27mm of the tip top -

Hydraulic adjustment rod Ø5x577mm (aluminum) -

Distance sleeve on the rod Ø25x120x12mm -

Regulation of the preload adjusting nut 10mm away from the nylon bushing

-

Lower fixation screw DIN 912 – M10x30 -

Lower sealing ring Ø10x16x1,5 (copper) -

Recommended oil AGIP FORK SAE 10W -

Fork oil capacity (each fork) 430ml -

Fork adjustment Left fork Compression (+ C -) -

Right fork Return/extension (+ R -) -

Standard regulation MARZOCCHI USD 40

Return 2 Turns (Since all tight) -

Compression 2 Turns (Since all tight) -

PR4 Special edition SACHS 48mm -

Type Up side down -

Forks of the fork Ø 48mm -

Tubes of the outer forks 670x59xx54 -

Maximum warping of the tubes / forks fork - 0,2

Spring length (no load) 461mm 438,1mm

Springs preload 4mm -

Springs constant K = 42N/mm (4,3Kgf/mm) -

Springs dimensions Ø 43,5x461x33,5 -



Oil seals retainers of the forks 48x58x11 (Sachs) -

Seals dust scrapers 48x58,5x13 (Sachs) -

Covers forks (1st version - 2010/2012) 10 Faces (50mm) -

Covers forks (2nd version – 2013) 10 Faces -

O-ring of the fork cover 47x2,5 -

O-ring of the spring preload adjuster 22x2,0 -

O-ring of the preload adjuster retaining nut 40x1,75 -

O-ring of the return adjuster (M8) 3x1,75 -

O-ring of the screw air purging 2,8x1 // 3,8x1 -

Air purging screw (w/ O-ring) M3x6 // M4x6 -

Adjust of the square nut on the spring preload 20mm height 18 - 23mm

Recommended oil AGIP FORK 10W -

Fork oil capacity (each fork) 596ml -

Oil level on each side (w / fork descent) 130mm -

Standard regulation Return (up) 10 Cliques (since all loosened) -

Compression (down) 16 Cliques (Since all tight) -

Load setting of the springs

External Adjuster on the forks covers

All rotated to the left -

PR4 EXTREME Fork MARZOCCHI 48mm -

Forks of the fork Ø 48x592mm (DLC coating) -

Outer forks tubes (Bordeaux) 569x59x54X48 -

Maximum Warping of the tubes / forks fork - 0,2

Spring length (no load) 475mm 465mm

Preload of the springs (inside hydraulic cartridge)

Extreme (standard) Retention bridle in 2nd slot -

Extreme (competition) Retention bridle in 1st slot -

Fork springs constant Soft K=39,2N/mm (4,0Kgf/mm) -

Hard K=41,2N/mm (4,2Kgf/mm) -

Springs length 475mm -

Fork springs dimensions Ø 43,5x475x33,7 (Ø5mm) -

Springs type of material 55Cr Si6 Steel -

Oil seals retainers of the forks 48x58x11 -

Seals dust scrapers 48x58,5x13 -

Type of hydraulic cartridge Sealed cartridges -

Forks covers M61x3 (8 sides - 49mm) -



Torque of the hydraulic cartridge cover on the fork 2Kgf.m (20Nm) -

O-ring of the fork cover 45x2,5mm -

O-ring of the screw air purging 4x1,5mm -

Purging air screw M4x6 -

Cartridges type Sealed -

Compression valve Adjuster in the bottom of the fork -

Extension / return valve Adjuster in the fork cover -

PFP valve (triangular adjuster at the fork cover) Adjust with a socket wrench 22mm -

O-ring of the cartridge lower fixing nut 24x1,8mm -

Lower cartridge fixing nut (in the bottom of the fork)

M16x1 -

Lower fixing nut torque 5,0Kgf/m (50N.m) -

Recommended oil (standard) AGIP FORK SAE 7,5W -

Hydraulic oil for softer suspension AGIP FORK SAE 2,5W -

Oil capacity in each cartridge 210ml -

Oil capacity of the fork in each fork 340ml Minimum 300ml Maximum 400ml

Oil level in the forks (with return bar fully extended and without compression group) 140mm -

Adjusters function In the center of the cover Return - Triangular PFP (Preload) -

At the foot of the fork Compression -

Adjusters full stroke Compression 25 Clicks - Return 25 Clicks -

Preload (PFP) 10 Turns -

Standard regulation MARZOCCHI 48mm

Return (on top) 10 Clicks

- Compression (on the bottom) 12 Clicks -

PFP regulation Exterior triangular adjuster on the cover of the forks

2 turns from the all open position -

Spring preload Inside holding bridle 1st slot (on top) -

External adjustment of the springs load

Exterior triangular adjuster on the cover of the forks

All rotated to the left -



REAR SUSPENSION


Progressive system Connecting rods -

Maximum stroke of the rear suspension PR3 270mm -

PR4 275mm -

Rear axle PR3/PR4 Ø15x255mm (M14x1.5) -

Maximum warping of the rear axle - 0,2

PR3/PR4 swing arm Aluminum cast and CNC machined -

PR3 – Trail swing arm Steel -

Wing arm protection thickness 5mm 2mm

Chain guide roller diameter (in the frame) Ø25mm Ø25-30mm Swing arm bearings PR4 HK2020RS or HK2016RS - Swing arm bearings PR3

HK2016RS

Bushings of the swing arm shaft 20x15x40 -

Washers of the swing arm 20x41x3 -

Frame connecting rod PR4 (2001 – 2006) (short) Steel, zinced -

Frame connecting rod PR4 (2001 – 2006) (long) Steel, zinced -

Frame connecting rod bearings HK1814RS -

Frame connecting rod bushing 18x10x65 -

Frame connecting rod washer Nylon, 29x18 -

Swing arm connecting rod PR4 (2001 – 2006) Steel, zinced -

Swing arm connecting rod bearings HK2020RS -

Swing arm / swing arm connecting rod bushing 20x12x50 - Swing arm / swing arm connecting rod washers 31x20x2,5 - Frame connecting rod PR3/PR4 (2007 – …) Aluminum casting -

Frame connecting rod bearings HK1620RS -

Frame connecting rod bushing 16x10x65 -

Frame connecting rod washers 16x31x1,7 16x31x2,0

Swing arm connecting rod PR3/PR4 (2007 – …) Aluminum casting -

Connecting rod bearings in the arm HK2020RS -

Connecting rod bushing in the arm 20x12x50 -

Washers of the swing arm connecting rod (nylon) 20x31x2,2 -

Connecting rod bearings swing arm / frame HK1814RS -

Connecting rod bushing swing arm / frame 18x12x41 -

Connecting rod ball joints frame / bumper 16x26x12 -



Kneecap O-ring seal connecting rod / frame 22x2 -

Bushings of the kneecap frame connecting rod 4,6mm (10x24x12x4,6) -

Motor shaft / swing arm M14x1,5 (Ø15x255) -

Connecting rod bolt in the frame PR3/PR4 DIN 912 M10x90 -

Connecting rod bolt in the swing arm PR3/PR4 DIN 912 M12x105 - Screw of the connecting rods union PR3/PR4 DIN 912 M12x80 -

PR3/PR4 – PRO rear shock absorber SACHS (w / reservoir) -

Shock absorber length 365mm -

Maximum shock absorber stroke 125mm -

Stroke stop height 50mm -


Absorber assembly spring preload (standard)

ENDURO 210mm -

SUPERMOTO 205mm -

EXTREME 210mm -

Spring constant 55N/mm (5,6kg/mm) -

Gas pressure in the reservoir 981KPa (10Kgf/cm2) -

Type of gas in the Shock absorber reservoir Nitrogen -

Shock absorber adjustment for high speed compression (external adjuster in the reservoir) 12 Clicks (after all tight) -

Shock absorber regulation at low speed compression (adjuster inside the reservoir) 8 Clicks (after all tight) -

Shock absorber regulation in return / hydraulic brake (bottom adjuster along the right connecting rod) 12 Clicks (after all tight) -

Away bushings from the shock absorber to the beams 5x10x24 -

Lower fixing screw M10x50 -

PR4 – EN/SM rear shock absorber SACHS (without reservoir) -






ENDURO 210mm -

SUPERMOTO 205mm -


Away bushings from the shock absorber to the beams 8x10x22 -




PR3 – EN/SM rear shock absorber OLÉ (w/ red spring) -






ENDURO 210mm -

SUPERMOTO 205mm -



PR3 – TRAIL rear shock absorber OLÉ (w/ white spring) -



Stroke stop height 20mm - Adjusting nut M40x1 - Fixation pin of the adjusting nut M5x10 - Spring dimensions 45x70x170mm -


Absorber spring preload (standard) 163mm - -

Spring constant 56N.mm -


WHEELS AND TYRES


Tires

PR3 MX Front 70/100 – 19” -

Rear 100/100 – 16” -

PR3 EN/TRAIL Front 70/100 – 19” -

Rear 100/100 – 17” -

PR3 SM Front Michelin 100/80 – 17” -

Rear Michelin 130/80 – 17” -

PR4 ENDURO Front Michelin 90/90 – 21” ENDURO -

Rear Michelin 120/80 – 18” ENDURO -

PR4 TRAIL Front Michelin 90/90 – 21” -


PR4 SUPERMOTO Front Michelin 100/80 – 17” -




PR4 ULTRAPASSAR Front PIRELLI 2.75 – 21”

(Professional MT43) -

Rear PIRELLI 4.00 – 18” (Professional MT43) -

PR4 SPECIAL EDITION / EXTREME

Front Michelin 90/90 – 21” COMPETTITION -

Rear Michelin 130/80 – 18” COMPETTITION III -

Tire rim

PR3 MX Front 1.40x19” – 32T -

Rear 1.60x16” – 32T -

PR3 EN/TRAIL Front 1.40x19” – 32T -

Rear 1.85x17” – 32T -

PR3 SM Front 2.50x17” – 32T -

Rear 3.50x17” – 32T -

PR4 EN/TR/ ULTRAPASSAR

Front J21x1.60 DOT (36T) (Left drilling) -

Rear J18x2.15 DOT (36T) (Left drilling) -

PR4 SUPERMOTO Front J17x2.50 DOT (36T)

(Left drilling) -

Rear J17x3.50 DOT (36T) (Left drilling) -

PR4 SPECIAL EDITION / EXTREME

Front 1.60x21” – 36T -

Rear 2.15x18” – 36T -

Rim / wheel warpage Radial - 0,2

Axial - 2,0

Front tire pressure (cold)

ENDURO/TRAIL/MX 150kPa (1,5Kgf/cm2) -

SUPERMOTO 175kPa (1,75Kgf/cm2) -

EXTREME/ SPECIAL EDITION ULTRAPASSAR

120kPa (1,20Kgf/cm2) 100kPa (1,00 Kgf/cm2)

Rear tire pressure (cold)

ENDURO/TRAIL/MX 175kPa (1,75Kgf/cm2) -

SUPERMOTO 200kPa (2,00Kgf/cm2) -

EXTREME/ SPECIAL EDITION ULTRAPASSAR

120kPa (1,20Kgf/cm2) 100kPa (1,00 Kgf/cm2)

Front air tube PR3 EN/MX/TRAIL 19” -

PR3/PR4 SM 100/80 – 17” - PR4 EN/TRAIL 90/90 – 21” -



PR4 EXTREME/Competition 90/90 – 21” / Bibe-mousse See expiration

date

Rear air tube

PR3 MX 16” -

PR3 EN/TRAIL 17” - PR3/PR4 SM 100/80 – 17” - EN/TRAIL 18” -

EXTREME/Competition 90/90 – 21” / Bibe-mousse See expiration date

Tire fixing plug

PR3-240 EN/PRO rear 1.85” - PR4-240 EN/PRO/EXTREME front

1.60” -

PR4-240 EN/PRO/EXTREME rear

2.15” -

Front wheels

Wheel hubs PR3 all models Trial 32 holes (polished) -

PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL UNISON (black) -

PR4 EXTREME AJP/MORAD (Bordeaux) -

Length of the front wheel spokes

PR3 EN/MX/TRAIL 238x3,8mm -

PR3 SM 207x3,8mm -

PR4 EN 240x3,8mm -

PR4 SM 195x3,8mm -

PR4 EXTREME 245x3,5mm -

Amount of the front wheel spokes

PR3 32 -

PR4 36 -

Bend angle of the spokes PR3 wheels (MORAD) 8º -

PR4 wheels (UNISON) 12º -

PR4 wheels EXTREME 10º -

Wrench size to adjust the spokes 5,9mm 5,4mm -

PR3/PR4 front wheel bearings 6004 2RS (x2) -

PR4 front wheel bearing seals 25x42x7 (x2) -

Spacer tube of the wheels hub bearings

PR3 Ø66mm (28x66x20,3) -

PR4 (UNISON hub) Ø62mm (27x62x21) -

PR4 (EXTREME) Ø66mm (28x66x21) -

O-ring of the spacer bearings (UNISON hub) 28x3mm -

Front wheel bushings

PR3 w/ MARZOCCHI Left / disc side 11mm -



SHIVER 45mm fork Right side 18mm -

PR3 w/ PAIOLLI 36mm Left / disc side 30mm -

Right side 15mm -

PR3 w/ PAIOLLI 41mm Left / disc side 16mm -

Right side 29mm -

PR3 with FASTACE fork Left / disc side 8,6mm -

Right side 14mm -

PR4 with GRIMECA hub Left / disc side 5mm -

Right side 25mm -

PR4 with PAIOLLI 41mm fork

Left / disc side 30mm -

Right side 16mm -

PR4-2014 with Marzocchi 40mm fork

Left / disc side 19mm -

Right side 23,5mm -

Rear Wheels

Length of the rear wheel spokes

PR3 – SM Right 207x3,8mm -

Left 210x3,8mm -

PR3 – EN Right 212x3,8mm -

Left 215x3,8mm -

PR3 – MX Right 195x3,8mm -

Left 207x3,8mm -

PR4 – EN Right 210x3,8mm -

Left 207x3,8mm -

PR4 – SM Right 192x3,8mm -

Left 189x3,8mm -

PR4 - EXTREME

Right 192x3,8mm -

Left 198x3,8mm -

Rear wheel spokes number PR3 32 -

PR4 36 -

Bend angle of the spokes PR3 wheels (MORAD) 8º -

PR4 wheels (UNISON) 12º -

PR4-EXTREME wheels 10º -

Torque of the spokes in the wheels 0,3kgf.m (3,0N.m) -

Wheel hubs PR3 MORAD Trial 32 holes

(polished) -

PR4 EN/SM/TR UNISON (black) -

PR4 EXTREME AJP/MORAD (Bordeaux) -

Rear hub PR3 Disc side 6004 2RS -



bearings Sprocket side 6004 2RS -

PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL

Disc side 6005 2RS -

Sprocket side 6005 2RS (x2) -

PR4 EXTREME

Disc side 6005 2RS 6204 2RS -

Sprocket side

6204 2RS (ext.)

6005 2RS (ext.) -

6005 2RS (int.) 6005 2RS (int.) -

Spacer tube of the wheels hub bearings

PR3 Ø121mm (25x121x17,2) (steel) - PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL Ø94,5mm (32x94,5x26) -

PR4 EXTREME Ø100,5 mm (30x100x26) -

O-ring of the spacer bearings (UNISON hub) 28x3 -

Rear hub seals

PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL

Disc side 30x47x7 -

Sprocket side 30x47x7 -

PR4 EXTREME

Disc side 30x42x7 -

Sprocket side 30x47x7 -

Rear wheel bushings

PR3 Disc side 7,5mm -

Disc side (2015) 5mm

Sprocket side 14mm -

PR4 (MORAD hub)

Sprocket side 20mm (galvanized iron) -

Sprocket side 11mm (galvanized iron) -

Caliper support 16,5mm thick -

PR4 EN/SM/TRAIL/ Ultrapassar

Disc side 12mm (aluminum) -

Sprocket side 27mm (aluminum) -

PR4 EXTREME

Disc side 10mm (aluminum) -

Sprocket side 21mm (aluminum) -

BRAKE SYSTEM


Brake fluid DOT 4 -

Recommended oil for brakes ENI-AGIP Replace every 2 years

Discs PR3 (2007 – 2011)

Front Ø 255mm -

Rear Ø 185mm -

PR3 (2012 - …) Front Ø 240mm -



Rear Ø 220mm -

PR4 (2009 – 2011) Front Ø 260mm -

Rear Ø 210mm -

PR4 (2012 - …) Front Ø 260mm -

Rear Ø 220mm -

PR4 EXTREME Front (… - 2014) Ø 260mm -

Front (2014 -…) Ø 270mm - Brake discs thickness

3,5mm 3,0mm

Maximum warping of the brake discs - 0,25mm

Brake pads Synthesized material without asbestos -

Brake pads thickness Right 6,2mm Until the slit or

1mm before the steel plate Left 6,4mm

Brake calipers

PR3 Front 2 Pistons, Ø 25mm -

Rear 2 Pistons, Ø 32mm or 2 Pistons, Ø 25mm -

PR4 Front 2 Pistons, Ø 25mm -

Rear 4 Pistons, Ø 25mm or 2 Pistons, Ø 25mm -

Brake calipers type Floating -

Brake pipes

PR3 (2007 – 2010)

Front 1170mm -

Rear 570mm -

PR3 (2010 – 2014)

Front 1160mm -

Rear 600mm -

PR4 (2001) Front 1210mm -

Rear 460mm -

PR4 SM – S Front 1045mm -

Rear short 405mm -

Rear long 570mm -

PR4 (2005) Front 1210mm -

Rear 620mm -

PR4 (2010 – 2013)

Front 1210mm -

Rear 856mm -

PR4 (2014 – 2015)

Front 1210mm -

Front EXTREME 1220mm -

Rear 856mm -

Front brake pumps



PR4 (2001 - 2005) AJP (black) -

Oil level display Front eyepiece -

Pump repair kit Ø 11mm piston -

Retention of the piston in the pump Without elastic ring -

Brake lever Black, without impeller -

PR4 (2005 - 2011) – PR3 (2007-2011) AJP (Ø12mm, front eyepiece, short cover) -


Retention of the piston in the pump Unbridled / with elastic ring -

Cover/diaphragm repair kit Long -

Brake lever Black (w / adjuster pin impeller) -

PR3 (2012 - …) PR4 (2012) KAILING (Black) -



Retention of the piston in the pump With elastic ring -

Brake lever Black, without adjuster -

PR4 (2013) BRAKING (aluminum) -




Brake lever Short / polished, with adjuster -

PR4 (2014 - …) BRAKTEC (aluminum) -




Brake lever Short / polished, with adjuster -

Rear brake pumps

PR4 (2001 - 2005) AJP (without reservoir) - Distance between fixing holes 40mm - Piston diameter Ø 11mm - Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump AJP 152.00.011C - Racord screw M10x1x21 -



PR3 (2007 – 2012) / PR4 ( 2005 – 2012) AJP (w/ display, short cover) - Distance between fixing holes 49mm - Piston diameter Ø 11 mm - Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump AJP 159.00.040C - Racord screw M10x1x21 -

PR3/PR4 (2013) BRAKING (w/ display, triangular cover) -

Distance between fixing holes 49mm - Piston diameter Ø 12,7mm - Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump Short cover -

Diaphragm cover screws M4 -

Racord screw (1st version) M10x1.25x21 -

Racord screw (2nd version) M10x1x21 -

PR3/PR4 (2014 – …) BRAKTEC (w/ display, short cover) -

Distance between fixing holes 49mm Piston diameter Ø 12,7mm - Repair kit of the cover / diaphragm pump AJP - Racord screw M10x1x21 -

Sealing washers 10x14x1,5 (copper) -

Stop light switches Front Mechanical M6x0,8 -

Rear Hydraulic M10x1 -

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

Item Specification Electrical system 12 Volts

Main fuse (PR3/PR4) 20A (yellow; plug type)

Fuse (PR3-MX normal version without light) 10A (red; plug type)

Fuse (PR3-MX version with simple light) 15A (blue; plug type) Dashboard KOSO DB – 01R (10R=02.6134) Display Blue display Neutral indicator light Green led Turn signals indicator light Green led Maximum indicator light Blue led Total trip counter Km / miles Partial trip counter Km / miles



Trip counter calibration Front tire perimeter 17” wheel 1790mm 19” wheel 1950mm 21” wheel 2200mm Speedometer sensor Passive type Operating voltage 5V Phase (+5V) Red wire (terminal 1) Neutral (-5V) Black wire (terminal 2) Sensor signal to the speedometer White wire (terminal 3) Sensor Resistance (T1 – T3) 3,9 MΩ – 4,5 MΩ Sensor Resistance (T2 – T3) 19,1 KΩ – 28,7 KΩ Dimensions of the sensor Ø 12x46 mm Cable length 1200 mm Clearance between the sensor and the magnet +/- 1mm Sensor fixing on caliper support Pin (hexagonal socket) M5x5 Magnet on the front brake disc Magnetic tablet Ø 6x6mm Mounting position of the magnet With the "N" facing the speedometer sensor Battery YTX5L-BS

Type Sealed (MF)

Battery capacity 12V, 4A

Battery electrolyte quantity 0,24Liters

Electrolyte package ECR – 0,24E

Specific electrolyte H2SO4 (sulfuric acid at 41%)

Specific weight of the electrolyte 1,32kg/C. (at 20oC)

Battery Maintenance Maintenance free

Battery dimensions (LxWxH) 112x70x105mm

Lights

Front headlight optics RINDER 310

Headlight Lamp 12V 35/35W BA20d

Minimum lamp 12V 4W BA9S

Homologated rear taillight (red LED) 12V 0,9W/0,6W

Rear taillight Extreme version (white LED) 12V 1,1W/0,2W

Turn signals lamps 12V 10W BA15S Turn signals relay 12V 20W (10+10W) DC

Relay operating voltage 12,8V CC

Load applied 12V 2x10W (Max.3,4W)



Current consumption 12,8V 1,95A

Frequency 80Hz (+-10Hz)

Operating temperature 10oC – 30oC (-20oC – 55oC) 50ºF – 86ºF (-4ºF – 131ºF)

Starting time Lower than 1 second

Off time Lower than 1.5 seconds

Average lifetime 100 Hours Horn Klaxon 12V DC

Operating voltage 12V (+/-2V)

Current consumption <1,5A

Sound intensity (dB) 100dB (+/-5dB) at 2 meters

Frequency 460Hz (+/-30Hz)

Durability 50.000 Cycles Ignition system CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition)

CDI unit MD125 – 3B

Coil Ignition MGO3A // MGE3B (ZXF-130727)

Resistance of the primary ignition coil 3,5Ω - 4,5Ω

Secondary resistance without coil plug 3,0KΩ - 5,0KΩ

Secondary resistance with coil plug 8,0KΩ - 12,0KΩ

Spark plug cap NGK LB05F / VD05F / YB05F

Spark plug cap resistance 5KΩ

Ignition coil cable Ø7x470mm

Ignition spark plug (standard) LG D8TC

Ignition spark plug (equivalent) CHAMPION A8YC / NGK DR8ES / DPR8EA-9

Distance between the electrodes 0,6 – 0,7mm

Spark plug thread pitch M12x1.25

Spark plug torque 1,8Kgf.m (18N.m)

Pulse generator (pick-up) 100Ω - 150Ω

Phase of the pick-up Blue / white wire

Pick-up neutral Green / white wire

Distance between pick-up and the ridge on the wheel 0,7mm (+/-)

CDI drive coil Black / red wire

Resistance exciter coil of the CDI 230Ω - 350Ω



Alternator 12V monophasic (ACG)

Alternator power 12V 120W (0,12Kw / 5000rpm) Stator 8 Poles (12V 8C)

Connector on the motor stator Faston type 6-way female-port

Load line (wire color on the wiring harness connector 2009/2012) Yellow / Pink wire

Load line (on the wiring harness connector 2013) Yellow / Gray wire

Load coil resistance in the stator 1,0Ω (1,6 – 1,9Ω)

Resistance exciter coil of the CDI 315Ω (between the black / red wire and the negative)

Resistance pick-up pulse generator 150Ω (between blue / white and green / white) Rectifier / current regulator Monophasic; half wave

Manufacturer's Code MT12V8 – Z05B (XFT1QO7 – 111126)

Model / manufacturer XF0510 (XIANFENG)

Connector for connection to wiring Sumitomo 6-way female-port

Charge coil line Yellow / pink wire

Charge line (output to the battery) red wire

Negative line rectifier Green wire

Current return line Black wire and green wire

Starter relay MQJ10 – ZSO1B (12V70A)

Solenoid resistance in the relay 3,5Ω - 4,0Ω

Starter relay connector Sumitomo-port 2-way pawls

Starter cable Length 550mm

Cable from the starter relay to the battery Length 250mm

Starter (MQ1351-CB 350W)

125/200 cm3 engine Z71BB11CB125D

240 cm3 engine Z237C10CB200 - 3 #E

CONNECTIONS OF THE STATOR CONNECTOR

Position Color of the wires Function Resistance

1 Pink Charge coil 0,6Ω - 1,2Ω

2 Black / Red CDI drive coil 250 Ω - 350Ω

3 Yellow Charge coil 0,6Ω - 1,2Ω

4 Green / red Neutral contact -



5 Green / white Neutral pick-up pulse generator 100 Ω - 150Ω

6 Blue / White Phase of the pick-up pulse generator 100 Ω - 150Ω

STATOR

Component Color of the wires Resistance Service limit Charge coil Yellow / Pink 1,6Ω 1,2Ω - 1,9Ω

CDI drive coil Black / red and neutral 315Ω 230Ω - 350Ω

Pick-up pulse generator Blue / white and green / white 100 Ω - 150Ω 100Ω - 150Ω

LIGHTS CONNECTIONS

Component Color of the wires Position on the connector

Headlight

Maximum lights Blue On the left

Medium lights White On the center

Ground Black On the right

Minimum Lights Brown -

Rear taillight Night light White On the top

Stop light Blue In the middle

Ground Black On the bottom

TURN SIGNALS CONNECTIONS

Component Turn signals color wires Wiring harness color wires

Front turn signals

Right Red / Purple Green

Left Yellow / Green White / Black

Ground Brown Black

Rear turn signals Right Yellow / Green Green

Left Red / Purple White / Black

Ground Brown Black

TIGHTENING TORQUES

STANDARD

Screw type Torque

N.m. (kgf.m)

Screw type Torque

N.m. (kgf.m)

3mm hex head screw and nut 2 (0,2) 3mm screw 2 (0,2)






8mm hex head screw and nut 22 (2,2) 6mm screw with phalange (8 mm head) 9 (0,9)

10mm hex head screw and nut 34 (3,5) 6mm screw with phalange (8mm head) and nut

12 (1,2)

12mm hex head screw and nut 54 (5,5) 8mm screw with phalange and nut 26 (2,7)

10mm screw with phalange and nut 39 (4,0) 12mm screw with phalange and nut 50 (5,0) Torque specifications listed below are important for the screws. The remaining must be tightened to the clamp values listed above. Notes: 1. Applying a locking agent to the screw - LOCTITE 240 (medium resistance) 2. Apply oil to the thread and the surface of the phalange. 3. Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring. 4. Grease the thread and the surface of the phalange. Note: Reading the dimensions of the screws:

M6 – Screw with metric thread M6; M6x16 – Screw with metric thread M6 and 16mm length; M6x16 (x1) - Screw with metric thread M6, 16mm length and 1mm pitch

Not all the screws have all the specified measures. Only a few of them were specified to facilitate identification.

ENGINE

Item QTY Dimensions (mm)

Torque N.m (kgf.m) Note

Maintenance:

Oil filter cover / drain crankcase oil

1

M36

15 (1,5)

- Rotor cover screws / oil filter 2

M5

5 (0,5)

-

Synchronization hole cover 1

M14

6 (0,6)

4

Cover of the Crankshaft flywheel screw 1

M28 8 (0,8) 4 Hole valve cover 4

M36

15 (1,5)

3 Locknut adjustment of the valves (IN/EX) 2

M6

14 (1,4)

- Spark plug 1 M12 18 (1,8) -

Lubrication:

Screws to fix the oil pump 2 M6 12 (1,2) - Cover screws of the pump rotors 2 M4 3 (0,3) -

Pump sprocket cover screws (240) 2 M5 5 (0,5) -



Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (200 1st version)

1 M8x1 26 (2,7) -

Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (200/240) 1

M10x1,25

34 (3,5) -

Racord oil pipe on the clutch cover 1 M8x1 26 (2,7) -

1

M10x1,25

34 (3,5) -

Banjos Screws of the oil radiator tubes (200/240) 2 M12x1,25 34 (3,5) -

Cylinder Head / Valves:

Blind nuts of the studs cylinder / head 4

M8

29 (3.0) -

Screws cylinder head cover 4

M6

12 (1,2)

-

Camshaft cover screws 2

M6

12 (1,2)

- Screw of the sprocket of the valve mechanism 2

M6

12 (1,2)

-

Screw of the valve mechanism chamber 1

M6

10 (1,0)

-

Screws of the chain tensioner valve mechanism 2

M6

12 (1,2) -

Pivot screw of the tensor guide in the valve mechanism

1 M8 10 (1,0) -

Adjustment nuts of the valves rocker arms 4

M6

15 (1,5)

-

Retaining plate screw of the valves rocker arms shaft

1 M6 12 (1,2) -

Drive pinion:

Drive pinion screw cover 2

M6

12 (1,2)

- Plate bolt to brake the drive pinion 2 M6x12 10 (1,0) - Cylinder / Piston:

Cylinder stud 4

M8

19 (1,8)

2

Screw of the valve mechanism chamber 1 M6 10 (1,0) 2

Clutch: Embraiagem

Clutch cover screws 11

M6 12 (1,2)

1

Changes drum fixer screw 1

M6 12 (1,2)

1

Screw of the positioner cam drum 1

M6 24 (2,4)

-

Clutch nut onto the primary shaft 1

M16x1 93 (9,5)

1

Rotor / centrifugal filter nut on the crankshaft 1

M16x1 83 (8,5)

2

Screws clutch pressure table 4

M6 12 (1,2)

-

Fixing screws of the starter motor 2

M6 12 (1,2)

-

Right crankcase screws 1 M6 12 (1,2)

-

Alternator / Flywheel:

Flywheel cover screws 8 M6 12 (1,2)

1

Screws of the left crankcase 10 M6 12 (1,2)

1

Magnetic flywheel screw 1 M8x1,25 26 – 32

(2,6 – 3,2) 1

1 M10x1 39 (4,0)

1



Stator screws 3 M6 10 (1,0)

1

Pulse generator screws 2 M5 5 (0,5)

1

Screw fixing the alternator cables 1 M6 12 (1,2)

1

The gear lever screw 1 M6 12 (1,2)

1

Screws of the starter clutch on the flywheel 6 M10 39 (4,0) 1

Crankshaft / Crankshaft shaft:

Bolt of the timing chain cover plate (on the left crankcase)

1 M6 10 (1,0) 1

Notes: (1) Pay attention to the correct position of the screws of different lengths in the left crankcase assembly, the valve cover, the cylinder head, the clutch covers and the engine flywheel. (2) This pin should never be removed from the engine, otherwise the shift selector can be damaged, forcing the complete engine disassembly, to repair the problems inadvertently caused if this pin spring of the shift selector is removed from the crankcase.

FRAME

Item QTY Dimensions (mm)

Torque N.m (kgf.m) Note

Frame beams / Exhaust system:

Top fixing screw of the beams 8 M6x20 12 (1,2)

-

Lower fixing screw of the beams 2 M10x40

39 (4,0)

-

Screw securing the exhaust pipe 1 M8x20

32 (3,3) -

Screws fixing the exhaust protection 2 M6x8

8 (0,8)

-

Exhaust manifold nut 1 M6 w/ tab

12 (1,2)

-

1 M8 w/ tab 26 (2,7) -

Exhaust manifold studs 1 M6x35 10 (1,0) -

1 M8x30 22 (2,2) -

Crankcase protection screws 3 M6x20

12 (1,2)

-

Screw strengthen the framework 2 M8X50 c/aba

32 (3,3)

-

Screw strengthening the frame to the beams 1 M8x30 c/aba 32 (3,3) -

Maintenance:

Fixing nut of the brake lever adjustment 1 M6 6 (0,6)

-

Screw of the side stand pivot 1 M12x30

39 (4,0)

-

Nut of the side stand pivot 1 M12

39 (4,0)

4

Head of the front wheel spokes 32/36 3,5

3,8 (0,38)

-

Head of the rear wheel spokes 32/36 4

5 (0,5)

-

Screw of the inlet nozzle 2 M6x20/25

12 (1,2)

-



Air filter fixing screw 1 M6x90

12 (1,2)

-

Gasoline Pump fixing screws 2 M6x20 12 (1,2)

-

Engine Removal / Installation:

Fixing bolt of the footrest bracket 2 M10 42 (4,3)

-

Auxiliary fixing screw of footrest bracket 2 M6 12 (1,2) -

Front engine fixing bolts 2 M10 42 (4,3)

-

Front bolts of the engine to the frame 4 M8 26 (2,7)

-

Screws of the rear engine support 2 M10 42 (4,3)

-

Front Wheel / Suspension / Steering:

Fixing bolts of the steering wheel clamps to triple clamps

2 M10x50 39 (4,0) -

Steering wheel fixing screws 4 M8x35

26 (2,7)

-

Nut of the steering column 1 M28 (x1) 98 (10,0)

-

Adjusting nut of the steering column (aluminum) 1 M30 (x1) 98 (10,0)

-

Screws fixing the upper triple clamp (stainless steel)

4 M8x20

32 (3,3)

-

Screws fixing the lower triple clamp (stainless steel) 4

M8x20

13 (1,3)

3

Front wheel shaft (aluminum) 25 1 M20 (x1,5)

74 (7,5)

-

Fixing screw of the front wheel shaft 4 M6 w/ tab 12 (1,2)

-

Screws of the front brake disc 6 M6x16

12 (1,2)

-

Front axle fixing screws 4 M6x30 w/tab 12 (1,2) -

Rear wheel / suspension:

Shaft nut of the rear wheel 1 M14 (x1,5)

93 (9,5)

-

Sprocket Screws 6 M8

32 (3,3)

-

Disc bolts of the rear brake 6 M6

12 (1,2)

-

Screw of the rear brake hose guide 1 M6

12 (1,2)

-

Pivot nut of the swing arm 1 M14 (x1,5)

88 (9,0)

-

Upper damper fixing bolt 1 M10

44 (4,5)

-

Lower damper fixing bolt 1 M10

44 (4,5)

-

Screw / nut of the connecting rod in the frame 1 M10

44 (4,5)

-

Screw / nut of the connecting rod to the frame / arm

1 M12 54 (5,5) -

Screw / nut of the connecting rod to the arm 1 M12

54 (5,5)

-

Upper arm protection screw 1 M6x12

12 (1,2)

-

Lower arm protection screw 1 M6x12

12 (1,2)

-

Chain guide bolts 2 M6

12 (1,2)

-

Chain guide bracket screws 2 M6

12 (1,2)

-



Brake system:

Support screws of the front caliper

2 M8x35

26 (2,7)

1

Clamp screws of the front pump 2 M6x20

6 (0,6)

-

Nut pivot bolt of the front brake lever

1 M6

12 (1,2)

-

Stud nut adjustment of the brake lever 1 M6

12 (1,2)

-

Front brake pump cover screws

2 M4x12

1,5 (0,15)

-

Screws of the front brake oil pipe banjo 2 M10x21 (x1) 29 (3,0) -

Stop switch of the front brake (mechanic)

1 M6 (x0,7)

0,5 (0,05)

4

Front / rear purging brake calipers screw

2 M8

14 (1,4)

-

Retention stud of the front caliper pads

1 M10

14 (1,4)

-

Guide pin (A) of the front caliper bracket 1 M8

26 (2,7)

-

Guide pin nut (A) of the front caliper bracket 1 M8

26 (2,7)

-

Guide pin (B) of the front caliper bracket 1 M8

26 (2,7)

-

Rear brake pump cover screws

2 M4x12

1,5 (0,15)

-

Rear brake pump fixing screws

2 M6X20

10 (1,0)

-

Nut of the brake pedal kneecap 1 M8

20 (2,0)

-

Stud nut pitch of the rear pump 1 M8

20 (2,0)

-

Nut pivot bolt of the rear brake pedal 1 M8

20 (2,0)

-

Stud retention of the rear caliper pads 1 M10

20 (2,0)

-

Guide pin (A) of the rear brake caliper 1 M8

26 (2,7)

-

Guide pin (B) of the rear brake caliper 1 M8

26 (2,7)

-

Stop switch of the rear brake (hydraulic)

1 M10 (x1)

14 (1,4)

-

Banjo bolt rear brake tube 1 M10x21 (x1) 14 (1,4) - Notes: (3) In SACHS and MARZOCCHI 48mm forks, carefully tighten the lower flange bolts with the specified torque value - 13 Nm (1.3 kgf.m) to avoid damage roundness of the outer tube of the fork, which would cause the malfunction of the front bike suspension. (4) The stop switch front brake is plastic, so their tightness should be done carefully applying the maximum of 0.5 Nm (0.05 kgf.m).



LUBRICATION POINTS AND SEALING

ENGINE

Location Lubricating Material Observations

Inner surface of the cylinder

Engine oil –

Outer surface of the piston Piston rings Timing chain Rocker arm shaft (rocker arm contact surface) Shaft of the auxiliary rocker arm (auxiliary rocker arm contact surface)

Clutch Disc Shaft of the gearshift lever fork Transmission gears Rotors of the oil pump All the contact surfaces of the bearings All the O-ring the contact surfaces All the sealing’s Piston pin

Molybdenum disulfide oil (mixture of engine oil ½ and ½ mass of

molybdenum disulfide)

–

Slot of the fork gear M3, M4, C5 on the drum Hole of the connecting rod pin Lobes of the camshaft Friction surface of the rocker arms Friction surface and contact area of the adjusting screw Valve guide friction surface Valve stem friction surface Outer surface of the outer guide clutch Bearing surface of the transmission gear Timing chain tensioner plate screw

Loctite 270 –

Valve mechanism sprocket bolt on the camshaft Screw thread of the gear lever cam Stator fixing thread Alternator and wires holder fixing bolt Threads of the screws / nuts of the frame connecting rod



FRAME

Location Lubricating Material Observations

Slide surface of the clutch cable adjuster

Multiuse grease Apply mass 5g

Slide surface of the accelerator cable adjuster Cable slide slot at the throttle grip stop Steering column bearings Dust seal bearing of the steering column Pivot bushing and brake pedal kneecap Contact area of needle roller bearings, plain bearings and seals of the frame connecting rod Slide surface of the side stand Slide surface of the brake pedal Needle bearing swing arm and sealants Rear shock absorber kneecaps Clutch lever pivot All oil seals Surface of the fork seals Oil fork –

Brake pumps

DOT 4 brake fluid – Seals of the brake calipers Pistons and cylinders of brake calipers Pistons boxes in the brake pumps Between the front brake pump and the brake lever adjustment screw

Silicone grease –

Slide surface of the brake lever pin Between the rear brake pump and the brake pedal adjustment screw

Sliding area in the holes of the support pins (guides) in support of the brake calipers

Inside of the steering wheel rubber grips Contact adhesive Cemedine # 540

–

Thread of the chain guide fixing screws Average strength of

fixing agent – Thread of the fixing screws on the rear brake tube guides Thread of the rear brake pump fixing screws In the drive chain Chain lubricant

spray –

In all electrical switches Electrical contacts spray –

In all wiring connectors of electrical components

Battery terminals surfaces Battery terminals protector spray –

Chapter 2 – Frame / Panels / Exhaust

Service manual AJP PR3/PR4 2 - 1

SERVICE INFORMATION

! DANGER ! Can result in serious burns if the exhaust system does not cool before the components are removed or handled.

! DANGER ! Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN.

Work in a well-ventilated area. Smoking, open flames or sparks in the work area or where the fuel is stored can cause a fire or explosion. This section covers the removal and installation of the frame panels, structural components and exhaust system. NOTE: Make sure exhaust tube and muffler are not in contact with any other component of the motorcycle, such as the fuel tank, the rear brake pipe, the stop switch cable or the carburetor tub breathing tube.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Excessive exhaust noise: Broken exhaust system; Leakage in the exhaust system.

Low performance: Deformed exhaust system; Leakage in the exhaust system; Clogged muffler.

FRONT HEADLIGHT

REMOVAL: Remove the front brake tube with the speedometer sensor cable out of the tab on the left of the front headlight.

Loosen the rubber clamps on the fork tubes, detach the terminal connections in the

SERVICE INFORMATION 2 – 1 REAR FENDER 2 – 4

TROUBLESHOOTING 2 – 1 MUD GARD 2 – 4

FRONT HEADLIGHT 2 – 1 CRANKCASE PROTECTION 2 – 5

FRONT FENDER 2 – 2 EXHAUST SYSTEM 2 – 5

SIDE COVERS 2 – 2 FRAME BEAMS 2 – 8

FRONT GRID 2 – 3 FRAME 2 – 11

SEAT 2 – 3



headlight and turn signals, and remove the front headlight;

INSTALLATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Make the connections of the headlight lamp and front turn signals according to the following displayed image;

FRONT FENDER

REMOVAL Remove the screws and washers (1).

Remove the fender. INSTALLATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the screws. NOTE: Check the tightening of the screws holding the front fender to the lower triple clamp, before assembling the front fender again.

SIDE COVERS

REMOVAL Remove the screws and washers (1). Remove the side cover (2).



INSTALATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal. FRONT GRID REMOVAL Remove the side covers (page 2-2). Remove the turn signal relay on the left front grid (if applicable).

Remove the screws (1). Remove the front grids (2).

INSTALLATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Be careful when installing new front grids, not the break in the bend zone. Tighten the screws with the M6 nuts.

SEAT

REMOVAL Loosen the screw (1) without losing the nylon bushing underneath the seat base.

Pull the seat back towards the fender to release it. INSTALLATION Check if the seat hook (3) is aligned with the frame plate (2). Check if the seat hole (3) is aligned with the frame pin (2).



Push the seat down and forward. Tighten the screw (1) without much grip to avoid damaging the seat cover. REAR FENDER

REMOVAL Remove the seat (page 2-3). Remove the screws (1) existing on both sides of the rear fender (2) in the tank.

Cut the clamps and disconnect the connectors of the turn signals and tail light (1).

Remove the screws (1) and the plate (2).

Pull the fender towards the rear to release it. INSTALLATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Fit electrical connectors and check the operation of the turn signals and tail light. NOTE: Always use screws with the correct length (M6x12) not to damage the fuel tank. It should not be exceeded the specified torque when tightening the side covers of the fender in the tank or the shock absorber flap / protection.

Torque: M6x12 screws: 1,0Kgf.m MUD GARD

REMOVAL Remove the screws (1). The flap is immediately released.



INSTALLATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal. NOTE: Use screws with the correct length (M6x12) not to damage the tank when you press the shock absorber flap / protection. CRANKCASE PROTECTION

REMOVAL Remove the screws (1). Remove the crankcase protection (2).

NOTE: If the PR4 EXTREME this protection is different, as shown in following figure, although the clamping points are the same, the difference lies only in the existing rubber support in the back and fit within the cradle tube, and that is, to disassemble this protection has to pull forward to remove it.

INSTALLATION Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Note that in the case of PR4 EXTREME first rubber should be fitted within the support cradle and thereafter replacing the screws and tighten them. EXHAUST SYSTEM

General view of the exhaust

NOTE: For motorcycles equipped with catalytic exhaust pipe, should never use leaded petrol to avoid damaging the catalyst.



EXHAUST TUBE AND MUFFLER

REMOVAL Loosen the clamp (1) that connects the muffler to the exhaust tube;

Remove the screw and nut (1) tightening the muffler in the rear section behind the right cover / rear fender (be careful with the washer);

Remove muffler(2) by pulling it toward the rear to free it from the exhaust tube; Remove the retaining screw (1) of the exhaust tube in the right beam;

Remove the screws / fixing nuts of the flange on the exhaust tube; Pull the curve (3) toward the front until you exit the exhaust chamber and pass the flange out of frame tube to be able to remove the tube;

INSPECTION Check for damage to the flange of the tube and sealing gasket. If necessary, straighten the flange of the curve, to ensure a perfect seal on the exhaust manifold. Make sure the terminal of the muffler is damaged (melted or broken). Inspect the rivets, the connection between muffler and tube, the clamp and the muffler’s bushing holder.



Replace any component of the exhaust system that is damaged. MX EXHAUST MUFFLER

NOTE: The existing muffler fiber within the exhaust tip must be replaced at regular intervals (every 3,000 km).

Procedure to replace the ceramic fiber in the MX exhaust muffler (see Chapter 3 - Maintenance, page 3-18) ASSEMBLY: The assembly of the exhaust system components should be performed in reverse order of removal. Always use a new gasket to ensure a perfect seal on the exhaust tube. When setting the exhaust system, first point the screws on the flange of the cylinder head;

Then the fixing screw of the curve on the right frame beam;

Always tighten first the tube nuts in the cylinder head, and then the screw to fix the curve to the right beam. Install the exhaust muffler. In the end, put the engine running and check for leaks in the exhaust system after installation. Correct if necessary. NOTE: Make sure the exhaust tube and tip are not in contact with any other component of the motorcycle, such as the fuel tank, the rear brake pipe, the stop switch cable or the carburetor tub breathing tube. Torque: M8 nut on the exhaust tube flange: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf.m) M8 screw in tube flange: 18 Nm (2.0 kgf.m)



Junction clamp of the exhaust muffler to the tube: 12 Nm (1.2, kgf.m) Muffler fixing screw: 12 N.m (1,2Kgf.m) FRAME BEAMS

REPLACEMENT If necessary replace any frame beam, put the motorcycleresting on a bench / appropriate support stand so that the two wheels rest against the ground. LEFT BEAM

REMOVAL: Remove the seat and side covers of the front and rear;

Remove the air filter (1);

Remove the air filter box with the intake pipe in rubber included (2);

Release the fuel supply (3) in the fuel filter;

Release the return pipe in the flange of the fuel tank;

Remove the exhaust muffler;

If so, loose the clamp fixing the motor stator cables to the left beam,

Remove the shock absorber reservoir holder (1) (if it exists);



Disconnect the connectors of the taillight / rear spoiler and turn signals above the fuel tank;

Remove the whole of the rear section with tank and fender included;

Remove the shift lever (2) and the sprocket cover (3);

Remove the four screws holding the upper beam to the frame, (we recommend the use of a ratchet ¼ "with a 10mm appropriate box key to the existing limited space, to loosen or tighten correctly the four 6mm self-locking nuts by the inside of the beam);

Remove the frame reinforcement screw in the left beam (with 13mm box key machined in reduced outer diameter 17.5mm);

Remove the M10 nut of the screw of the upper shock absorber fixation (with 17mm box

key machined in reduced outer diameter 21.5mm);

Remove the screw fixing the bottom of the beam to the frame (with a Allen key of 8mm);

Remove the swing arm shaft nut (with 22mm key);

Separate the left beam of the frame;

Remove the foot rest holder/ side stand.

INSTALLATION: Assemble the left foot rest/side stand holder in the new beam;



Install the new left beam on the frame, properly aligning the various holes of the fixing points and temporarily tighten all the screws until you get full seating of the beam in the frame;

NOTE: If necessary, use only the rubber hammer, or nylon, to adjust the fit of the aluminum beam on the frame.

Tighten the motor shaft / swing arm nut and all the beam fixing screws to the frame with the specified torque. Proceed with the installation by following the procedures in reverse order of removal. Tightening torques of the frame beams: Upper attachment (6mm): 12 N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Lower attachment (10mm): 39 N.m (4,0Kgf.m) Frame Reinforcement (8mm): 32 N.m (3,3Kgf.m) Shock absorber / rear (10mm): 39 N.m (4,0Kgf.m) Motor shaft / swing arm (14mm): 88 N.m (9,0Kgf.m)

RIGHT BEAM

REMOVAL: Remove the seat and side covers of the front and rear;

Remove the air filter housing with the rubber intake pipe included;

Release the fuel supply tube in the gas filter and the return pipe in the fuel tank;

Remove the exhaust muffler and remove the screw in the fixing curve;

Disconnect the connectors of the taillight / spoiler and rear turn signals;

Remove the whole of the rear section with tank and fender included;

Remove the four screws holding the upper right beam to the frame, (we recommend the use of a ratchet ¼ "with a 10mm appropriate box key to the existing limited space, to loosen or tighten correctly the four 6mm self-locking nuts by the inside of the beam);

Remove the frame reinforcement screw in the right beam (with 13MM box key machined in reduced outer diameter 17.5mm);

Remove the M10 nut of the screw of the upper shock absorber fixation (with 17mm box key machined in reduced outer diameter



21.5mm) and remove the screw together with the two spacer bushings;

Remove the screw fixing the bottom of the right beam to the frame (with a Allen key of 8mm);

Remove the swing arm shaft nut (with 22mm box key) and enter a came up the left side to extract the engine shaft / swing arm;

Release the rear brake pump on the beam;

Release the kneecap, and remove the brake pedal;

Separate the right beam of the frame;

Remove the right skate holder.

INSTALLATION: Install the new right beam on the frame, properly aligning the various holes of the fixing points, and temporarily tighten all the screws until you get full seating of the beam in the frame; NOTE: If necessary, use only the rubber hammer, or nylon, to adjust the fit of the aluminum beam on the frame.

Enter the swing arm / motor shaft with the washer through the hole of the right beam. Tighten the motor shaft / swing arm and all the beam fixing screws to the frame with the specified torque, as for the left beam. Proceed with the installation by following the procedures in reverse order of removal.

FRAME

Replacement If it’s necessary to replace the steel frame, remove the crankcase protection and put the motorcycle resting on a bench / appropriate support stand so that the two motorcycle wheels rest against the ground. NOTE: Before disassembling the components, can be beneficial to take note or photos of the position of the various components, especially electric cables and wires, electric wiring, as well as the routing of fuel piping, for later reference in a manner that ensures the assembly of all the pieces in the correct position to ensure the a safely functioning of the motorcycle. REMOVAL: Perform the steps described above for the replacement of the beams.

Release the rubber clamps on front forks, disconnect the terminals of the headlight and turn signals connections and remove the headlight.

Cut the plastic clamps on the right side of the handlebar and release the switch cable / connecting wires in front of the brake pump;

Loosen the 3P and 6P connectors of the lights switch, the 5P connector of the ignition switch, the 4P start button and kill switch connector, 2P front stop switch connector (on models equipped with new brake pump);

Disconnect the connectors of the various electrical components, and remove the electrical wiring;



Remove the CDI;

Remove the rectifier / current regulator and the turn signals relay (if it exists);

Remove the battery;

Remove the battery holder;

Release the spark plug cable and the cable of the starter;

Remove the frame reinforcement with the ignition coil, the petrol station and the horn;



Remove the starter relay;

Remove the front grids;

Release the oil cooler with the included oil lines (in models equipped with engine 200 or 240 cm3);

Remove the carburetor;

Release the vacuum tube in the intake manifold of the air intake;

Remove the intake manifold;

Remove the engine;

Front suspension removal

Remove the nut of the steering column below the handlebar (use a 32mm special key, downgraded to a thickness of 9.5 mm in the case of forks SACHS or MARZOCCHI 48mm) and untighten the four screws at the top of the triple clamps;



Use a nylon hammer to give a few taps on the underside of the table and pull the handlebar up to separate the table off the sheaths on the steering column tube;

Loosen the steering column adjustment nut, and remove all the fork assembly with the handlebar, fenders and front wheel off the motorcycle frame;

Remove steering stem bearings.

Rear suspension and swing arm removal Release the connector of the hydraulic switch back stop and the brake pump on the right beam;

Remove the connection screw of the suspension rods, remove the shock absorber fixing screw to the beams with the spacer bushings;

Remove the shock absorber;

Remove the swing arm assembly with the damper, the chain, the rear wheel and the rear brake installed;

Remove the frame beams, with the side stand, the skates and the respective holders;

INSPECTION

Check all the disassembled components, and replace any part that is damaged;

INSTALLATION

For the new frame In first place, install the tracks / boxes bearing (tapered) on the steering column; Install the fork and front wheel; Install the nylon roller to the chain in the rear engine support, if it was removed; Fit the engine in the motorcycle frame (the engine can be installed in the frame already with the oil tubes pre-tightened); Place the engine front brackets in the correct position (with the long edge facing up), and insert the screws with the distance bushings between the right bracket and the engine;

Tighten the oil cooler tubes (in the case of engine 200 or 240cm3);



Install the frame reinforcement with the ignition coil and fuel pump;

Fit the beams and tighten them in the various attachment points as described on the beam installation section;

Tighten the horn and the fuel pump in the same fixing screw;

Install the oil cooler, having regard to the mounting position of the spacer bushings and fixing screws (in the case of motor 240cc) as shown in the following image;

Tighten the banjos of oil tubes carefully not to damage the radiator; Make sure that the oil cooler is not in contact with the cylinder head;



Connect the vacuum tube and output to the petrol pump in the correct position;

Fit the carburetor; Assemble the air filter box already with the rubber intake tube installed; Then mount the rear suspension connecting rod on the new frame;

Install the set of the swing arm with the wheel, the chain and the rear brake, as the reverse of disassembly;

Continue the installation of the remaining components in the reverse order of removal; Assemble the rear section with the tank and fenders included; Connect the fuel hoses and electrical connectors;

! DANGER ! After perform all assembly operations, perform a static and dynamic test to check the perfect functioning of all motorcycle systems.

Chapter 3 – Maintenance


SERVICE INFORMATION PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN BEFORE EACH MAINTENANCE Carbon monoxide If the engine has to run to carry out any operation, make sure the space is ventilated. Do not run the engine in an enclosed space.

! DANGER ! The exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, a toxic gas which may lead to poisoning and can cause death.

Run the engine preferably outdoors. If not possible, do it in a space with a ventilation system connected to the exhaust system.

Fuel Fuel is highly flammable and poisonous. Extreme caution should be used when handling fuel. - Do not fill the motorcycle next to flames or lighted cigarettes; - Always stop the engine before refueling; - Be careful not to spill fuel to the engine or exhaust pipe while the engine is hot; - Clean quickly spilled fuel; - If the fuel is swallowed or contact with eyes, seek medical attention immediately;

- Keep children and pets at a distance.

! DANGER ! Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN.

Components with high temperatures

! DANGER ! The engine and exhaust system are hot when the engine is running and maintains this high temperature for some time after the engine stop. Use insulated gloves or wait for the engine to cool down before handling the engine or exhaust system.

Used engine oil Follow the laws in force in your country for collecting and treatment of waste oil. Never dump used oil into the sewer or ground. The oil is extremely toxic and contaminates water and soils.

! DANGER ! The engine oil may cause skin cancer if left in contact with the skin repeatedly for a long period of time. Usually it is not necessary to handle used oil every day, but it is recommended to wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling used motor oil. KEEP USED OIL AWAY FROM CHILDREN.

SERVICE INFORMATION 3 – 1 DRIVE CHAIN 3 – 20

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 3 – 2 SUSPENSION 3 – 23 MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS FOR RACING 3 – 5 STEERING STEM BEARINGS 3 – 25

OIL AND ENGINE OIL FILTER 3 – 6 BOLTS AND NUTS 3 – 25 OIL COOLER AND CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER 3 – 8 WHEELS / TYRES 3 – 25

ENGINE BREATHER 3 – 9 BRAKE SYSTEM 3 – 28

AIR FILTER 3 – 9 SIDE STAND 3 – 33 FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM 3 – 12 EXHAUST SYSTEM 3 – 33 THROTTLE CABLE 3 – 14 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3 – 37 CARBURATOR 3 – 15 LAMPS REPLACEMENT 3 – 39 CLUTCH CABLE 3 – 15 HEADLIGHT RANGE 3 – 41 SPARK PLUG 3 – 16 DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER 3 – 42 VALVE CLEARANCE 3 – 17 MOTORCYCLE CLEANING 3 – 42



Brake powder Never use compressed air or a dry brush to clean the brakes.

! DANGER ! Asbestos fibers, if inhaled, can cause respiratory diseases or cancer.

Brake fluid Follow the guidelines of your country for collecting and treatment of waste fluid. Never dump into the sewer or ground.

! WARNING ! If the brake fluid is spilled on painted, plastic or rubber parts can damage them. If a spill occurs, immediately flush with water. Put a cover on top of these painted pieces to protect them when handling the brake circuit. KEEP THE BRAKE FLUID AWAY FROM CHILDREN.

MAINTENANCE RULES 1. Use only components and lubricants

approved by AJP or their equivalents. Components that do not meet the requirements of AJP can damage the motorcycle.

2. Use only metric tools to perform maintenance on the motorcycle. The incorrect use of tools or attachments could damage the motorcycle.

3. Always use new O-rings, seals and gaskets on assembly operations.

4. When any part or component is attached with several bolts (e.g. engine covers, cylinder head, brake discs, sprocket, etc.) begin tightening the inner screw largest diameter, followed by tightening the opposite diagonal, cross or X, gradually increasing the torque to the specified value.

5. Clean the inside of the components with a solvent after disassembly for inspection and lubricate the friction surfaces before proceeding to its assembly.

6. After installation, check that all parts are installed correctly and working.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE A description of the various maintenance operations required for the proper functioning of the motorcycle and the respective periods is presented next.

! WARNING ! An intensive motorcycle driving, with high revs, tracks with mud or dust, requires cleaning and maintenance much more frequent than those recommended in order to ensure the smooth running of the motorcycle.

AFTER THE FIRST 1.000km – ENGINE BREAK IN Replace the engine oil; Clean the engine oil filter; Clean the air filter. Wash and wet it in oil; Inspect the fuel filter; Check the spark plug; Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary

transmission system; Check the valve clearance and adjust if

necessary; Check brake pads and brake fluid level; Check spoke tightness; Adjust and lubricate the throttle and the

clutch cable; Check the slack in the steering; Check the condition of the exhaust system; Check the operation of lights, turn signals,

horn, speedometer and emergency switch.

MAINTENANCE OF 3.000km (OR 6 MONTHS) Check the spark plug and the spark plug

cap condition; Replace the engine oil; Clean the engine oil filter; Clean the air filter. Wash and wet in oil; Clean the air filter box, and replace the

sealing silicone if necessary; Replace the fuel filter; Check, adjust and lubricate the secondary


necessary; Check the supply system piping, lubrication

and oil cooler (only for engines 200 / 240cm3);



Adjust and lubricate the throttle cable and the clutch cable;

Inspect the timing chain and check the timing chain tensioner;

Check the brake pads and the brake fluid level;

Check the spoke tightness; Check slack on the wheels; Check the operation of the side stand; Check the steering operation; Check the operation of the suspensions; Check the value of the battery empty

voltage and the load voltage; Check the condition of the exhaust system; Check the condition and operation of the

various components of the electrical system;

Check the condition and operation of the ignition system and electric starter;

Check the tightness of bolts, nuts and clamps of the attachments of the various components.

MAINTENANCE OF 6.000km (OR 12 MONTHS) Replace the spark plug; Replace the engine oil; Replace the engine oil filter; Replace the air filter; Clean the air filter box, and replace the








Check the spoke tightness; Check slack on the wheels; Check the operation of the side stand; Lubricate the steering column bearings;

Lubricate the bearings of the connecting rods and the swing arm bearings on the rear suspension;

Check the value of the empty voltage and the load voltage;

Check the condition of the exhaust system; Check the condition and operation of the




MAINTENANCE OF 9.000km (OR 18 MONTHS) Check the spark plug and the spark plug

cap condition; Replace the engine oil; Replace the engine oil filter; Clean the air filter. Wash and wet in oil; Clean the air filter box and replace the




and oil cooler (only for engines 200 / 240 cm3);




Check the spoke tightness; Check slack on the wheels; Check the operation of the side stand; Check the steering operation; Check the operation of the suspensions; Check the value of the battery empty

voltage and the load voltage; Check the condition of the exhaust system; Check the condition and operation of the






MAINTENANCE OF 12.000km (OR 24 MONTHS) Replace the spark plug; Replace the engine oil and the engine oil

filter; Clean the centrifugal oil filter rotor; Replace the air filter; Clean the air filter box and replace the






Check the brake pads; Replace the brake fluid; Replace the timing chain; Check the spoke tightness; Check slack on the wheels; Check the operation of the side stand; Replace the oil from the fork; Lubricate the steering column bearings; Lubricate the bearings of the connecting

rods and the swing arm bearings on the rear suspension;

Check the value of the battery’s empty voltage and the load voltage;

Check the condition of the exhaust system; Check the condition and operation of the




Note: After reaching the 12000km the maintenance should be performed again

repeating the above-mentioned maintenance each every 3.000km, except for the maintenance of the first 1.000km.



MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS FOR RACING ! WARNING !

Participation in racings implies the immediate loss of warranty.

Check all items listed below before any racing. The items listed below intended to be a guide for participation in racing.

Item Verifications Maintenance Engine oil Oil level, leakages Add or replace

Fuel tank Damages, leakages Replace

Fuel pump Functioning, pressure Replace Fuel piping Deterioration, damage or leakage Replace

Brake system Lever clearance, rear brake pedal position, brake performance and pad wear

Adjust, replace or purge the air in the brake circuit

Wheels / Tires Tire pressure, wear and damage, spoke tightness and tire fixer tightness Adjust, tighten or replace

Drive chain Clearance, lubrication. Attachment clip security. Maximum length: 112 links Adjust, tighten or replace

Sprocket and pinion Wear and safe installation Tighten or replace

Seat Fixing and security Tighten or replace the lock or its fixing rivets

Clutch discs Proper operation and wear Replace

Air filter Contaminated, torn Clean or replace

Emergency engine switch Correct functioning Fix it or replace

Bolts, nuts Correct tightening Tighten

Valve clearance Correct clearance Adjust

Timing chain Excessive noise Replace

Spark plug Tightness, correct temperature range, electrodes clearance, wiring and damage

Adjust the electrode clearance; Tighten or replace

Steering column Free handlebar rotation and tightness of the column nuts Adjust or tighten

Front suspension Smooth operation, oil leakages, sheaths condition and correct oil level

Keep clean, free of dirt or dust; Adjust or replace

Rear suspension Smooth operation, oil leakage and spring length (preload) Adjust or replace

Swing arm bearings Smooth operation Lubricate or replace Connecting rods bearings of the rear suspension Smooth operation Lubricate or replace

Cables Smooth operation, damages, folds and correct connection Lubricate or replace

Engine fixing bolts Tightness Tighten



OIL AND ENGINE OIL FILTER ! DANGER !

If the engine has to run to make some service, verify that the area is well ventilated. Never put the engine running in an enclosed space. The exhaust gas contains carbon monoxide, which can cause loss of consciousness and may lead to death.

Recommendation: Use only 4 stroke engine oil SAE 20W 50 of good quality to ensure a high lifetime of the engine. Use only oils that meet or exceed the requirements of SF or SG API classes.

Recommended oil type: Eni/Agip i-Ride moto SAE 20W-50 Specifications: API SG JASO MA, MA2

OIL LEVEL Checking the oil level Put the motorcycle in vertical position and leveled to the ground; Check the oil level on the glass in the lower area of the right housing cover.

If the oil level is below the minimum (L): Fill with recommended oil to the

maximum level mark (H); Place the engine and let idling for three

minutes; Stop the engine and check the oil level.

OIL CHANGE / OIL FILTER ! DANGER !

Waste motor oil may cause skin cancer if they repeatedly get in contact with the skin for extended periods. It is recommended to wash your hands with soap and water immediately after having handled waste oil. Note: Replace the engine oil with the engine hot and to ensure a complete emptying of the oil, the motorcycle must be tilted to the left (supported on the side stand). Put the engine running and let idle for 5 minutes; Stop the engine and remove the cover to the oil filler. Note: In the case of the model PR4 EXTREME remove first the crankcase protection (see Chapter 2 – Frame/Panels/Exhaust). In this engine oil drainage and oil filter removing are made by the same location. As will be shown below. Remove the oil filter cover (1) together with the spring and the filter on the bottom side of the left crankcase area.

Drain the engine oil into a suitable container, to prevent spill on the floor.



Thoroughly flush the oil filter in non-flammable solvent or high flash point, until all the accumulated waste is removed. To completely clean the filter, use compressed air. Before installing the oil filter, inspect carefully for damage and make sure the rubber seal is in good condition.

Assembly Install the oil filter and the spring in the correct position while keeping the rubber seal faced to the engine inside housing as shown in the following figure.

Install the oil filter case and tighten with the specified torque.

! DANGER ! Putting the oil filter in a wrong position can lead to serious engine damage. Tightening torque: 25N.m (2,5Kgf.m) Clean the oil glass. Introduce by the oil filler cap the correct quantity of the recommended engine oil. Note: Use an appropriate funnel to put the oil into the engine by the plug hole on the right crankcase cover.

OIL CAPACITY 1,0 Liters (125cc engine) 1,1 Liters (200 / 240cc engine)

Check the sealing ring on the oil cap is in good condition; otherwise replace it with a new O-ring.



Start engine and check if there are no oil leaks. Stop the engine and re-inspect the engine oil level (page 3-5).

OIL COOLER AND CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER Oil cooler Inspect radiator and its oil lines about the existence of damage or leakage.

Keep the radiator clean and unobstructed to ensure proper cooling of the engine oil.

! DANGER ! A clogged oil cooler with dirt or damaged may cause the engine to overheat and may lead it to suffer serious damage.

Use a small screwdriver to straighten the fins in the radiator honeycomb, if necessary.

If the tubes or the oil cooler are damaged or with irreparable leaks, they must be replaced immediately.

If replacement is necessary it should be consulted the procedures in Chapter 4 – Lubrication System. CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER The centrifugal filter (1) is located on the crankshaft on the right side of the engine near the oil pump. It should be cleaned according to the recommendation on the Maintenance Schedule or whenever you need to replace the clutch plates.

For cleaning, inspection or even replacement of the centrifugal oil filter, see chapter 4 – Lubrication System.



ENGINE BREATHER Inspect the engine breather hose (1) for deterioration, damage or loose connection.

Ensure that the breather tube is not excessively bent or cracked in the passage through the motor support. Replace the engine breather pipe whenever is damaged.

AIR FILTER ! WARNING !

During the disassembly operations, maintenance and assembly air filter, it is essential to ensure that no dirt pass into the throttle body and to do so cover the nozzle orifice and blow with compressed air all the components during the assembly. Note: When the bike is washed, avoid direct pressure water jets directly to the air filter. After washing, use compressed air to dry the bike components. Remove the air filter, clean it and lubricate it. Removal Remove the seat (see Chapter 2 - Frame-Panels-Exhaust); Remove the fixing screw (1) and remove the cover over the air filter, if it exists;

Separate the filter from the filter box; Loosen the clamp of the intake tube in the carburetor; Remove the air filter housing with the rubber tube included;

Maintenance Remove the metal bracket of the air filter.

Wash the air filter with flammable solvent with a high flash point, such as kerosene.



Twist, squeeze and dry the air filter with compressed air.

To moisten or lubricate the air filter apply approximately 30cl of clean engine oil to sponge filters, inside a plastic bag or apply suitable lubricant spray for air filters of polyurethane foam.

! DANGER ! Never use gasoline or solvents with a low flash point to clean the air filter. It could explode or fire or the air filter of polyurethane foam will be damaged.

Assemble the metal bracket inside air filter.

AIR FILTER BOX Each time the air filter is clean, also check if the air filter box is in good condition. The silicone sealing in the filter casing cover should be replaced whenever dust indications are observed inside. If the air filter box is damaged (deformed on the fitting profile with the cover), should be replaced to avoid causing excessive and premature wear to the valves, cylinder and the engine piston ring. Removal Remove the four screws, and disassemble the air filter box;

Remove any existing silicone in the box / air filter cover; Wash / clean the inside of the air filter box;

Assembly Apply a black silicone cord around the outer fitting into the filter box cover;

Assemble the filter housing on the respective cover and tighten the four screws without damaging; Finish the seal, lightly running a finger over the remaining silicone around the outer perimeter in the contact area of the box with the cover, to remove excessive silicone;



Inspect the rubber tube, and replace if damaged;

Insert the rubber tube into the filter box outlet with the respective clamps and tighten the clamp slightly;

Install the filter housing and make sure the inlet pipe is properly fixed in the carburetor; Adjust the clamp position as shown in the following image and tighten gently to avoid damaging the rubber tube;

Note: Do not over tighten the clamps, as in the case of the clamp to tighten the filter housing may damage the same, as in the case of tightening the carburetor may cause the rubber tube to jump out of the carburetor inlet fitting.

Assemble the air filter in the correct position on the box and tighten the fixing screw M6x70 with washer plate;

Install the cover over the filter (if applicable) before introducing the fixing screw.



! WARNING !

If the air filter is not installed properly, dust and dirt can enter the engine and cause premature wear on the piston, cylinder and valves. Tightening torque: 12N.m (1.2Kgf.m) Note: If the bike is used regularly in areas of high humidity or dusty, the procedures for cleaning the air filter and the respective box must be performed more frequently.

FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM Fuel The PR3/PR4 models only consume unleaded gasoline with a minimum of 95 octanes. Never use leaded petrol to avoid destroy the catalyst and the exhaust system of the motorcycle.

If the motorcycle remains immobilized or stored for more than a month, drain the vat float. Leave gasoline on the carburetor vat without the motorcycle being used for long periods of time, may cause obstruction of jets, resulting in difficulties to put the engine running or inadequate handling of the vehicle. When the bike is washed, avoid direct pressure water jets directly to the breather in the cap of the fuel tank.

Fuel filter The fuel filter is transparent, this allows to see the presence of impurities inside. Always replace the fuel filter at the intervals specified in the Maintenance Schedule or more often if necessary.

The fuel filter (1) is assembled between the right frame beam and the carburetor, under the seat.

It must be replaced whenever it is observed the existence of dirt on the inside, because the accumulation of any dirt can damage the pump, restrict or block the flow of fuel causing loss of power and engine malfunction.

Fuel filler cap Frequently inspect the correct operation of the existing breather valve in the cap of the fuel tank. The air shall pass in one direction only, from outside to inside. Shaking the cap should be audible the ball movement inside the breather valve.



Do not allow dirt, mud or water remains accumulated in the fuel filler cap cavities because it can damage the breather in the fuel tank and cause malfunction of the fuel system to the engine.

! WARNING !

When the bike is washed, avoid direct pressure water jets directly to the breather in the cap of the fuel tank.

Fuel tank Check the condition of the fuel tank: existence of damages, cracks.

Check if the fuel lines are deteriorated, damaged or leaking.

Inspect the suction pipe inside the tank and check if there is dirt that causes obstruction in the fuel flow.

For fixing the fuel tank, be careful and always use screws with the correct dimensions/length in order to avoid damage the tank when it is assembled in the rear frame.

Specific screws type: oval head M6x12

Tightening torque: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m)

! DANGER ! If the fuel tank is damaged, it must be replaced immediately. The use of the motorcycle with a damaged tank can cause fuel leakage to the rear wheel or cause a fire.

Check the connections of the fuel lines to the fuel tank: pipe for the fuel pump (1); return pipe (2). Also check the links of the fuel lines to the fuel pump: tube from the fuel tank; pipe to the carburetor. Improper installation may cause a malfunction of the engine.

Check if the fuel lines are deteriorated, damaged or leaking. If necessary replace the tubes of the fuel supply system, its dimensions can be found in Chapter 1 – General Information / Technical Specifications. Fix the pipes with appropriate clamps. Check that the clamps are properly placed and that the tubes are well fixed.



! DANGER ! Fuel tubes must be properly positioned to ensure that they never touch the exhaust or become pinched / crushed. This contact can cut the tubes and cause a fuel leakage, which can lead to loss of motorcycle control or cause a fire.

FUEL PUMP Fuel pump maintenance It is very important to ensure that during refueling operations do not pass into the fuel tank any impurities such as water or dirt / mud that may be accumulated near the thread of the filler cap.

If impurities reach the inside of the fuel pump, will damage the membranes / valves, damaging the fuel pump.

If the vacuum tube that connects the intake manifold to the pump is damaged, punctured or crushed, the fuel pump will not work and thus makes it impossible the engine to work.

For more information about the fuel pump see Chapter 5 – Power supply system.

! DANGER ! Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN. Work in a well-ventilated area with the engine stopped. Do not smoke, do not let flames or cause sparks in the work area or where the fuel is stored. Clean immediately any fuel spillage.

THROTTLE CABLE For smooth operation, the cable and the inside of the throttle grip should be kept clean and lubricated, so it should: Check that the throttle grip rotates without

restrictions to the fully open position with engine stopped.

Check that after release the throttle grip, it automatically closes in any position of the handlebar.

Check if it doesn’t have any deterioration, damage, bending on the throttle cable.

Check that the clearance in the throttle grip is 2-6 mm, as shown in the following figure.

Adjustment The adjustment is made on the throttle cable adjuster. Note: Replace any damaged parts before the adjustment.

Slide the rubber dust cover (1) to access the adjuster. Unscrew the adjuster nut (2). Turn the adjuster (3) out to reduce the clearance, rotate the adjuster to inside to increase the clearance.



When the clearance is according with the specified, tighten the adjuster nut. Slide the sleeve back to cover the adjuster.

Check the correct throttle grip operation after adjustment. With the engine running, the idle speed should not be affected when the handlebar is fully turned to either the left or right.

CARBURATOR Air lever

The carburetor is equipped with an air lever to ease the starting of the engine when it is cold. For this the lever has three positions: the first one (1) is for when the engine temperature is above 20°C; the second (2) is for when the engine temperature is below 20°C. When the engine is warm - above 40°C - no need to operate the lever and it must remain in the (0) position.

When performing this procedure for start the bike should not be actuated the accelerator.

ENGINE IDLE SPEED

The adjustment of the idling on the carburetor affects the behavior of the engine at start, that is, an engine which idle speed is correctly regulated is more easily to start. Velocidade do ralenti: 1400 Rpm (+- 100)

For more details on the technical specifications and adjustment of the carburetor, see the table "Specifications for the Regulation of Carburetors" presented in Chapter 1 – General Information / Technical Specifications. As for disassembly procedures, cleaning, assembly and adjustment of the carburetor are described in detail in Chapter 5 – Power Supply System.

CLUTCH CABLE For the smoothest possible clutch operation, the cable must be installed in the correct position, without folds and kept clean and lubricated.

The clutch cable should always have a clearance (1), as shown in the following picture. The performance of the clutch must not be affected by turning the handlebar fully to the left or right.

Apply grease on the lever contact zone and the adjuster in order to make his actuation smoother.

Adjustment Smaller adjustments are made in the adjuster of the lever. Pull the rubber protection out. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster. When the clearance is correct, tighten the lock nut and place the rubber protection on the adjuster.

1

2

0



Bigger adjustments are made in the adjuster on the cable holder on the engine.

For the regulation of the cable in the cable holder on the engine you must: Tighten the upper adjuster to the end and

turn 1 back to back; Loosen the lower fixing nuts (1) and turn

the adjuster (2); Tighten the fixing nuts; Check the clutch operation.

Note: The cable adjuster on the clutch lever must always have a margin of maneuver to maintain the proper clearance, considering that during the functioning and the wear of the clutch plates the clearance of the lever decrease.

SPARK PLUG Removal Note: Before removing the spark plug, clean thoroughly around it, using compressed air, and make sure that no foreign material is introduced into the combustion chamber.

Disconnect the spark plug cap (1) checking their condition and the cable from the ignition coil that connects it, if any of this is not in good condition it should be replaced. Remove the spark plug with an appropriate 18mm wrench.

Inspection Test the spark plug on the existence of spark.

Visually inspect the spark plug. Check the following elements and replace if necessary: Ceramic insulator broken or cracked; Worn out electrodes; Color of electrodes:

Slightly darkened means good condition;

Too brightness indicate malfunction of the ignition or lean mixture;



Wet or coal deposits indicate very rich mixture.

Recommended spark plug

Standard (equivalent)

LG D8TC (Champion A8YC or

NGK DR8ES)

Adjustment Measure the spark plug electrode clearance with a feeler gauge (1). Adjust the clearance carefully bending the electrode.

ELECTRODES CLEARANCE OF THE SPARK PLUG: 0,6 / 0,7 mm Reuse of the spark plug Clean the electrodes of the spark plug with a wire brush or with a special cleaning agent for spark plugs. Replacing a spark plug Select a new spark plug. Check and adjust the spark plug clearance with a feeler gauge. Assembly Pointing the spark plug if possible by hand. Tighten the spark plug with the specified torque value.


! WARNING ! Do not exceed the specified torque value of the spark plug. Apply a higher torque value can damage the threads in the cylinder head or make it impossible to subsequent removal of the spark plug.

VALVE CLEARANCE Note: Inspect and adjust valve clearance when the engine is cold - below 35°C. Procedure: Remove the seat and side covers; Remove the air filter box and the intake pipe included; Remove the right front grille; Remove the throttle piston out of the carburetor; Release the fuel supply pipe near the pump; If necessary, remove the screw in the right fixation of the fuel pump; Remove the covers of the valves holes (1).

Note: In the case of 240cc engine, intake valve cover should be lowered three millimeters on the height of the thread to be able to remove it. Otherwise, the frame reinforcement fixation will have to be loosened in the beams and moved up to allow the intake valve cover removal.

Remove the two screws of the frame reinforcement fixation on the beams and move it up until it is possible to remove the intake valve cover.



Remove the crankshaft cover (1) and the timing chain control point cover (2) and the camshaft cover (3).

Turn the flywheel counter-clockwise 2-3 turns to align "T" with the mark in the crankcase.

Confirm that the piston is at top dead center (TDC) in the compression stroke. The two valves are with clearance, and the two brands "—" "—" (dashes) in the camshaft gear must be aligned parallel to the face / surface of the cylinder head.

For 125 / 150cc engines the reference mark that exists in the camshaft rack is an "O" which must be facing up, upright and aligned with a cutout in the form of "V" existing on the outside of the cylinder head.

Check clearance on both valves through a feeler gauge between the adjusting screw and the auxiliary hammer. Valve clearance value Intake: 0,05 ± 0,02mm Exhaust: 0,08 ± 0,02mm Clearance adjustment on the intake valve Loosen the lock nut (1) and enter the blade of the feeler gauge;



Tighten the set screw (2) until you have a slight friction in the feeler gauge (3); Tighten the fixing nut; Check the clearance value and repeat the operation if necessary until the specified clearance; Hold the fixing screw and tighten the fixing nut.

Clearance adjustment on the exhaust valve Loosen the lock nut (1) and enter the blade of the feeler gauge;

Tighten the set screw (2) until you have a slight friction in the feeler gauge (3); Tighten the fixing nut;

Check the clearance value and repeat the operation if necessary until the specified clearance; Hold the fixing screw and tighten the fixing nut.

Tightening torques: Intake: 24N.m (2,4Kgf.m) Exhaust: 26N.m (2,6Kgf.m) Check if the O-rings (1) of the valve caps are in good condition, replace if necessary. Apply oil to the O-rings.



Put the valve caps (1) and tighten with the specified tightening value.

Tightening torque: 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m) Note: In 240cc engines intake valve cover should be lower (recessed with at least three millimeters at the height of the thread) than the cover on the exhaust valve hole.

Place the camshaft cover (1) and tighten the two screws to the specific torque value.

Put the cover of the crankshaft (2) and the timing control point cover (3) and tighten

gently until the value of the specified tightening.

Tightening torque: Screws of the camshaft cover: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)

Cover of the crankshaft: 8N.m (0,8Kgf.m)

Timing control point cover: 6N.m (0,6Kgf.m)

DRIVE CHAIN ! DANGER !

Be extremely careful not to put your fingers between the sprocket and the chain.

Stop the engine. Lift the rear wheel by placing a support or box above the bike frame. Put the gearbox in neutral. Measure the maximum clearance of the chain in the intermediate point between pinion and rack.

Clearance: 30 – 40mm Adjustment Loosen the nut on the rear axle (1); Loosen the adjuster nuts (2) on both sides;



With a 13mm wrench adjust the adjuster screws (3) both sides equally until you obtain the correct clearance.

! WARNING !

Ensure that both tuners are in the same position. If not the chain will misaligned with the sprocket which can lead to excessive wear and make up chain jump off sprocket.

Tighten the tuners fixing nuts. Tightening torque: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Tighten the nut of the rear axle.

Tightening torque: 93N.m (9,5kgf.m) Recheck the clearance in the chain and the free rotation of the rear wheel.

! WARNING ! Press several times the rear brake pedal and check that the brake is actuating. Always perform this operation to ensure that the rear brake is operational.

When the chain is too dirty, it should be removed and cleaned before being lubricated.

Removal Remove the pinion cover (1);

Remove the chain retaining clip (1) carefully; Remove the fixing link; Remove the chain.

! WARNING !

Be careful not to lose the O-rings when the clip and the retaining link are removed.

Wash the chain with a flammable solvent or with a high flash point (eg. kerosene) to not damage the O-rings; Clean until it dries;

! WARNING ! Do not use steam cleaning or water jet with pressure because the O-rings will be damaged.

Inspect the chain and O-rings to locate wear or damage. Replace the chain if it is with high wear or damaged.

Measure the chain length by putting it on a flat surface and fully extended so that the links be aligned.



CHAIN LENGTH: SUPERMOTO: 428H – 110 links ENDURO: 428H – 112 links EXTREME: 520 – 114 links

Lubricate the chain with specific spray for drive chains, which do not damage the O-rings. Pinion Examine if the teeth of the pinion have excessive wear or damage: (1) Wear; (2) Normal; (3) Damaged Replace if necessary.

Note: Never install a new drive chain with a used sprocket and pinion or new pinion and sprocket with a used drive chain. Both the drive chain as the sprocket and pinion should be in good condition, otherwise the new parts will wear out quickly. Assembly Install a new drive chain; Place the fixing link and the retaining clip always facing the rotational direction of the chain and wheel; Install the pinion cover; Adjust the clearance of the drive chain.

! DANGER ! Do not install the drive chain in without the four O-rings of the fixing link. Check that there is no clearance between the fixing link and the retaining clip. Note: Assemble the retaining clip on the fixing link always facing the direction of the chain rotation.

DRIVE CHAIN GUIDE Check the chain guide (1) condition. If it is too worn or damaged it must be replaced.

Also check the tightness in the chain guide fixing screws on the swing arm.

Models with chain pitch 520, also check the attachment of the support in the chain guide and swing arm.



SWING ARM PROTECTION Check the condition of the swing arm protection (1). If it have high wear or damaged must be replaced. Also check the tightening of the two screws holding the protection of the swing arm, located one on top and one at the bottom of the protection.

Service Limit: 4.0mm thick

! WARNING ! If the wear of the protection arm strike the face of the swing arm, this will suffer wear because it will be in contact with the drive chain.

SUSPENSION ! WARNING !

Do not drive the motorcycle with faulty suspension. Loose, damaged or worn components may affect the stability and driving control.

FRONT SUSPENSION Check the operation of the fork compressing it several times (5 to 10), as shown in the following figure.

Check if the fork has signs of leakage or damage. Replace all components that are damaged and / or irreparable. Confirm the tightness of all the screws and nuts to the specified torque.

Cleaning of the dust seals on the telescopic fork The dust seals (1) are used to remove dust and dirt particles of the forks. However, after some time, dirt accumulates behind the seal. If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings located behind may be leaking and the tubes of the fork can be scratched.



Use a screwdriver to gently remove the dust seal from the outer tube and move it along the tube.

Clean the dust seals, outer tube and tubes carefully. Lubricate with silicone spray or engine oil. Replacing the dust seals to its original position by hand.

REAR SUSPENSION Check the operation of the rear suspension doing up and down on the back of the bike several times (5-10), as shown in the following figure.

Check that all components of the rear suspension have been properly installed and that they are not damaged. Confirm the tightness of all the screws and nuts to the specified torque. Put the motorcycle on a stand or box to lift the rear wheel off the ground. Try rotating the wheel sideways to check if the swing arm bearings are damaged, as it is shown in the following figure. Replace them if damaged.

Check if the connecting rods of the rear suspension, needle and ball bearings are damaged. Replace it if necessary.



STEERING STEM BEARINGS PROCEDURE TO CHECK THE EXISTENCE OF CLEARANCE IN THE BEARINGS Lift the front wheel off the ground and make sure the handlebar rotates freely. Check that the control cables do not interfere with the rotation of the handlebar. If the handlebar rotates in non-symmetrical shape, twist or have vertical movement, check and adjust the steering column bearings. Inspection Press the brake lever and compress repeatedly the front suspension, while with the left hand fingers positioned between the adjusting nut and the steering column trying to detect any clearance in the bearings.

Adjustment procedures:

Loose the fixing screws from the top triple

clamp (1) on both sides and the nut (2) M28x1.

Tighten the adjusting nut (3) the necessary to remove the clearance of the

steering stem bearings. Pay attention not to over tighten or you may prevent the free rotation of the steering.

Tighten the nut (2) and check the clearance again and that the handlebar turns freely.

Tighten the screws of the upper triple clamp (1) according to the specified torque value.

Tightening torque: Steering table nut: 98N.m (10,0Kgf.m) Screws of the top table: 32N.m (3,3Kgf.m)

BOLTS AND NUTS Check that all screws and nuts of the frame are tight according to the specified torque value.

Check that all the pins and clips are in place and properly placed.

WHEELS / TYRES Check the tire pressure.

Pressures on cold tires

ENDURO/TRAIL front 150KPa (1,5Kgf/cm2)

ENDURO/TRAIL rear 175KPa (1,75Kgf/cm2)

EXTREME front 100 -150KPa (1,0 -

1,5Kgf/cm2) It depends on the road conditions

EXTREME rear 100 -150KPa (1,0 -

1,5Kgf/cm2) It depends on the road conditions

SUPERMOTO front

175KPa (1,75Kgf/cm2)

SUPERMOTO rear 200KPa (2,0Kgf/cm2)

Note: The tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold (below 30°C).



Check the tires for cuts, incrusted nails or other sharp objects. Check tread depth. Service limit: 3mm depth

Tighten the heads of the spokes (1) and the fixer of the tube.

Tightening torque: Spoke head: 3.8N.m (0,38Kgf.m) Air-tire chamber fixer: 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m) Pull and push the rear wheel sideways (in alignment with the axis) to check for clearance in swing arm.

Check if the tires are damaged or high wear. Check if the wheels have corrosion or damage.

FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL Removal To remove the front wheel, put the motorcycle resting on its frame on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground.

! WARNING ! Do not operate the front brake lever while the front wheel is removed.

ENDURO / SUPERMOTO Unscrew the two shaft fixing screws (1) on the right side of the fork, hold the wheel and remove the front axle (2).

Remove the front wheel carefully from the fork.



EXTREME Unscrew the two screws (1) on the left side of the fork, loosen the front axle (2), hold the wheel and remove the shaft.

Remove the wheel from the fork.

Note: The threaded bush (3) of the front wheel axle must not be loosened or removed from the right tube terminal as this part determines the position or correct wheel center in the fork (Marzocchi 48mm) of PR4-EXTREME bike. If it is necessary to remove it, measure using a caliper rule and take note of the projecting position or distance out of the holder shaft in order to later be able to make correct assembly. If it was not followed the above procedure, please refer to the Chapter 1 – General Information / Technical Specifications.

Assembly Place the front wheel between the tubes so that the disc lies between the brake pads. Tighten the front axle or the nut and tighten the screws.

Check if the wheel turns freely without any hindrance. Press several times the brake lever to make sure that the brake is operating.

Tightening torque: Front wheel shaft: 74N.m (7,5Kgf.m) Fixing screws of the front wheel shaft: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)

! DANGER ! After assembling the front wheel, operate several times the front brake lever to restore pressure in the system. Keep the brake discs free of oil and greasy materials otherwise the braking effect is reduced.

REAR WHEEL REMOVAL ! WARNING !

Do not actuate the rear brake pedal while the rear wheel is removed. If the wheel axle is removed, clean the thread and apply a layer of grease to prevent deterioration of the thread.

Removal Place the motorcycle on a stand, supporting the frame so that the rear wheel does not touch the ground.

Loosen the locknut (1) on the right side of the wheel, hold the rear wheel and remove the axle shaft (2) by the left side until the rear wheel is free but the brake caliper support continues held in the swing arm.

Push forward the rear wheel to the maximum, remove the chain from the sprocket and gently remove the wheel from the swing arm.



Assembly To assemble the rear wheel, should be followed the procedure in reverse order, taking care to put the brake disc between the pads. Make sure that the wheel guides are touching the adjusting screws (3) and they both have the same adjustment. Tighten the nut of the rear axle with the proper torque.

Check if the wheel turns freely. Press several times the brake pedal to make sure that the rear brake is operating. Tightening torque: Shaft nut of the rear wheel: 93N.m (9,5Kgf.m)

! DANGER ! After assembling the rear wheel, actuate the rear brake pedal until the system pressure is restored. Keep the discs free of oil and greasy materials, otherwise the braking power is drastically reduced. Tighten the axle nut with the proper torque. A loose wheel can lead to an unstable behavior of the motorcycle.

BRAKE SYSTEM Brake discs

Due to wear, the thickness of the brake discs in the contact area (1) with the pads decreases. In its thinnest point (A), the difference in thickness with respect to the nominal thickness may not be larger than 0.5 mm. Measure the nominal thickness in the area (B) outside the contact area and check in several points of the disc.

! DANGER ! For safety, the brake discs must be replaced as soon as they reach their wear limit (3mm thick).

Brake fluid reservoirs The brake fluid reservoirs are designed so that even with worn pads is not necessary to top up the level. If the fluid level becomes lower than the minimum level it means that the brake system has a leak or that the pads are worn out.

Brake fluid check Recommended brake fluid: ENI Brake Fluid DOT 4 (SAE J1703, FMVSS116)

Check the oil level of the reservoirs (1) of the front and rear brake. If the level is near the lower mark, check the brake pads wear: If the pads are worn, replace it;



If the pads are not worn, check that there is no leak in the braking system, if there is, it should be purged to eliminate air bubbles.

After this check, add DOT4 brake fluid if necessary to restore the level.

Front brake: Unscrew the cover fixing screws (1). Remove the reservoir lid (2) and the pump diaphragm. Add DOT4 brake fluid up to the upper pump level mark.

Rear brake: Remove the cover fixing screws (1). Remove the tank lid (2) and the pump diaphragm; Add DOT4 brake fluid up to the upper pump level mark.

! WARNING !

Do not remove the cap from the front or rear brake while the handlebar is not in a position where the reservoir is level and the motorcycle upright. Avoid acting the brake lever with the cover removed. The brake oil will spill if the lever is actuated. Do not mix oils, since they may not be compatible. Avoid spilling oil on painted parts, plastic or rubber. Place a cover in those parts whenever an intervention in the braking system is made.

Wear of the brake pads Front brake: Visually inspect the pads beneath the caliper to determine the wear. Replace the brake pads if the wear line in the pads reach the edge of the brake disc (1).

Rear brake: Visually inspect the pads behind the caliper to determine the wear. Replace the brake pads if the wear line in the pads reach the edge of the brake disc (1).



Act firmly the front brake lever or rear brake pedal to check that no air entered. If the lever or pedal is too soft or spongy, it is necessary to purge the air from the braking system.

Check the condition of the pipes and fixations. If there is deterioration, cracks or leaks, the components must be replaced and put new sealing rings. Tighten loose fixations.

! WARNING ! In case of replacement of the rear brake hose, it is important to certify its correct position to ensure that the hose never comes into contact with the exhaust due to the vertical movement of the swing arm or to be crushed between the swing arm and the pump brake.

Brake pads replacement Front wheel Remove the brake caliper holder of the fork, removing the two fixing screws (1).

Press the caliper piston to move away and retract in order to be able to put the new pads.

Remove the clips / retaining bolts, then remove the pads from the caliper.

Clean the caliper holder and the caliper with compressed air. Check if the sleeves of the guide bolts are damaged and lubricate it if necessary.

Assemble both pads and insert the clips/retention bolts to the correct position and tighten with specified torque, to ensure that they will not be lost and the pads do not jump off, which might lead to accidents.



Note: Correctly fit the new pads with the end lodged in the pin guide or in the cropping with the existing stainless steel plate in front caliper.

Tightening torque: Front caliper holder screws: 26N.m (2,7Kgf.m) Front caliper brake pads retention bolt: 14N.m (1,4Kgf.m)

! DANGER ! Keep the brake discs free of oil and greasy materials, otherwise the braking effect will be dramatically reduced. After replacement of the front brake pads, brake lever should be actuated several times to restore the pressure in the system.

Rear wheel To remove the rear brake pads, except for the case of PR4 EXTREME, rear wheel must be removed - see "REAR WHEEL REMOVAL" in this chapter. After removal pads should be pushed with a key for this purpose in order to place the piston in its retract position.

Remove the retaining bolt (1) and then remove the brake pads.

Clean the caliper with compressed air, put the new pads correctly in their slots and tighten again with the retaining bolt applying the proper torque. Finally refit the rear wheel ensuring the disc free pass through the brake pads.



Enter the retaining pin and make sure that the inner stainless plate is pressing the pads. Tighten the retaining bolt followed the stopper (if it exists).

After installation of the pads in the brake caliper, assemble rear wheel.

Make sure that the brake disc is inserted between the two pads on the rear brake caliper when placing the wheel or the disc may be damaged.

Repeatedly press the brake pedal to restore the pressure in the system and check if the wheel rotates correctly. Note: In the case of PR4 EXTREME removal of the rear wheel is not required, since there is sufficient space between the wheel hub and the disc to be possible to remove the brake pads. Tightening torque: Rear caliper brake pads retention bolt: 20N.m (2,0Kgf.m)

Rear brake pedal Adjustment Loosen the lock nut (2). Turn the adjuster stud (3) to increase or decrease the pedal height. Measure the distance between the ball and the pump fixing bolt (4). If you have the correct measure (5), tighten the locknut. STANDARD: 93,0mm

Standard regulation of the distance between the locknut of the adjustment stud and locknut on the kneecap of the brake pedal (6): 12,5mm.

STOP LIGHT SWITCH Note: There is no regulation of the brake light switch for the rear brake because it is a hydraulic switch.

By acting the front brake lever, check if the brake light of the taillight illuminates before there was effective braking. If the light does not turn on properly, adjust the adjuster in the lever to turn on the switch at the correct height, if not possible it must be replaced.

Adjustment Loosen the lock nut (1); Turn the adjuster (2) clockwise to advance the switch or in the counterclockwise direction to delay the switch performance. Tighten the locknut.



SIDE STAND Check if the side stand (1) is damaged and / or loss of tension in the spring (2). Check if the whole side stand is not folded and moving without restrictions. Lubricate the side stand pivot.

Put the side stand on the floor with the foot and support the motorcycle on it. Make sure the stand is supported on solid ground and that the motorcycle is in a stable position. Check if the side stand pivot and nut are tightened to the specified torque value, but so that the automatic collection system work properly.

Turn the side stand between 45º – 90º (1/8 to 1/4 turn). Tighten the nut of the pivot with the specified torque. Tightening torque: 39N.m (4,0Kgf.m)

! WARNING ! The side stand is equipped with an automatic retract system if the motorcycle is no longer supported by the side stand. So, after being supported on the side stand, the motorcycle should not be inadvertently handled, since the side stand may retract and lead to the motorcycle falling. The PR3 / PR4 side stand is designed to support only the motorcycle's weight. At any time someone should sit when the motorcycle is supported on the side stand, because this inappropriate effort may damage the side stand and their support, and in extreme cases, damage the left frame beam.

EXHAUST SYSTEM Note: In the case of motorcycles equipped with catalytic converter its maintenance is scarce. Keep the components tight to ensure proper seal in the exhaust manifold. Care should be taken during the fuel supply to never use leaded petrol to avoid damaging the catalyst. MX EXHAUST In the motorcycles equipped with the MX exhaust, the existing muffler fiber within the exhaust must be replaced at regular intervals. It is recommended to exchange the ceramic wool at least every 3.000Kms. This procedure was changed in 2014 due to small changes in the muffler. Both procedures will be described for performing this type of maintenance.

MX MUFFLER (… - 2014)



The following procedure for all bikes equipped with this muffler until November 2014 is as follows:

Remove muffler from the bike (Chapter 2 – Frame/Panels/Exhaust);

Remove the cap and tighten the muffler body on the work bench, by the support zone;

Use an electric drill with a Ø4mm drill to unbolt and remove the rivets in the bottom of the muffler and with a Ø3 mm drill to unbolt and remove the rivets on the muffler terminal;

Separate the core of the aluminum profile,

and check if it is in good condition;

Inspect the perforated tube for damage. If it is broken, weld it to correct the failure;

Remove muffler end;

Remove any existing fiber inside the

exhaust muffler; Install ceramic wool blanket, wrapping it

correctly around the perforated tube;

Installing the tool guide to assist in filling

of ceramic wool and the assembly of the core, so that the entire inner space of the aluminum profile be filled;



Introduce the set into the muffler core of the exhaust tip profile until obtaining the fitting in the correct position;

Fix the core of the exhaust pipe to the

profile with 5mm rivets;

Put insulating paper tape on each side of

the pipe joint and the terminal and apply the high temperature paste seal exhaust tip;

Apply high temperature paste inside, as illustrated in the image below;

At the end of remove the insulating tape;

Install the bushing on the muffler which

should enter with pressure on the profile hole in aluminum. If not, you should use another bushing with superior size to allow reuse of the MX exhaust muffler;



If the bushing on the muffler is new it should be opened holes using Ø4mm drill. Finally, attach the terminal in the exhaust muffler with 4mm rivets;

MX EXHAUST TIP (2014 - …) The new exhaust mufflers installed on bikes PR3 / PR4 MX since November 2014 have some differences:

Outside tube in stainless steel; The terminal muffler in aluminum and

fixed with 5mm rivets; Do not use the inner cover at the

upper end above the terminal; The assembly of the muffler fiber

inside the profile is performed in a different sequence from that described above;

To replenish the muffler with the new ceramic wool, proceed as follows:

Unbolt and remove the muffler terminal;

Remove the entire used fiber core out of

the exhaust and cleaning any type of soot which may exist;

Enter the new fiber into the muffler,

wrapping it completely around the perforated tube to fill up completely;



Assemble the terminal on the tip checking

the pressure he performs to enter and, if it is small it must be replaced and in this case should also open the holes with an Ø 5mm drill;

Finally, attach the terminal in the exhaust

muffler with 5mm rivets.

ASSEMBLY Assemble the exhaust muffler with the bushing and the respective clamp (if applicable). Install the tip on the bike again (Chapter 2 - Frame-Panels-Exhaust).

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BATTERY The YTX5L-BS battery used in PR3 / PR4 has a closed system and does not require maintenance. After formatting the new battery, do not remove the strip of sealing lids, it is not necessary to check the electrolyte level or add water. Just keep the terminal cables tight, poles and battery clean and lightly lubricated with grease or Vaseline acid free.



To access the battery, remove the right side cover (Chapter 2 - Frame-Panels-Exhaust).

To remove the battery, first disconnect the negative (-) and then the positive (+).

On the battery assembly, first connect the positive terminal and then the negative.

In case of the motorcycle enter into a higher stop period, remove and recharge the battery every month slow charge. The storage temperature should be between 0ºC - 35°C. Do not expose the battery to direct sunlight.

Charging method

The battery must be recharged outside of the motorcycle in a well-ventilated area, dry, clean and away from sources of ignition or flammable substances.

To recharge the YTX5L-BS battery, use a suitable 12V charger. First connect the terminals (alligator clips) on the charger to the battery terminals and then insert the plug of the battery charger unit to the network power socket (220V). Always read the battery charging instructions on a label or a user

manual and follow the specified charging method.

Charging method

Charge Current

Charging time

Normal 0,5 A 5 to 10 hours

Fast 3,0 A 1 Hour

! WARNING !

Fast charge is not recommended; use this method only in emergency cases. When assembling never change polarity, otherwise you can destroy the battery and the current rectifier. Never disconnect the battery when the engine is running. The current rectifier can be destroyed.

If it necessary to replace the battery, see Chapter 15 - Electrical system.

! DANGER ! If the electrolyte (sulfuric acid) spill off the battery, be very careful. The electrolyte causes severe burns. In case of contact with skin, clean with water. In case of contact with eyes, apply plenty of water for at least 15 minutes and consult a doctor immediately. The battery is a sealed model but can release gases. Avoid sparks or flames near the battery. Faulty batteries must be stored out of reach of children. Ensure that the batteries are collected by qualified entities for the purpose.

FUSES The fuses are located under the seat. When removing the seat you can view the fuses.



The fuse capacity is 15 or 20 amperes (plug type).

Always keep one replacement fuse into its holder in good condition, for emergencies.

Replace a damaged fuse by another of equal value. When you put a new fuse and he blows again, it is recommended that an AJP dealer be consulted for an inspection to the electrical system.

! WARNING ! Under no circumstances should be applied a larger capacity fuse or repair a fuse. Improper treatment could damage the whole electrical system.

The plastic caps must remain properly secured in the holder so that no fuse be lost.

LAMPS REPLACEMENT Lamp replacement headlight Release the two rubber bands (1) and turn the headlight forward.

Remove the retaining clip (1) and remove the lamp holder bushing (2) out of the headlight optical by pressing and turning the lamp. Then press and turn the light bulb to release it off the bush.

When placing a new lamp, avoid touching the glass globe lamp in order to keep it clean of fat. Clean the lamp with a cloth moistened with alcohol to remove fingerprints or other traces of grease to ensure greater lamp life.

Insert the new light bulb into the socket bushing and reinsert on the headlight optic reflector. Place the retention clip and assemble the rubber protection cover.



If the connection terminals have been removed from the headlight bulb holder, make the connection again by putting them in the following order: black (ground, right); white (low beam, center) and blue (high beam, left). Check following picture.

Fix the holder headlight again through the rubber bands on the fork and adjust its position properly.

Note: Use only 12V35/35W BA20d lamps. Parking lamp replacement Remove the bulb holder out of the optic, press and turn the light bulb counter-clockwise to remove it. Install the new bulb in the socket, snap into the hole in the headlight optic.

Note: Use only 12V5W BA9S lamps.

Replacing turn signals lamps

Remove the screw, the glass and the turn signal inner globe;

Press the lamp, turn it counter-clockwise to remove it;

Install the new lamp in the turn signal;

Fit the interior globe (orange) and the glass of the turn signal, aligning its slot by the housing / turn signal body.



Note: After installing the turn signal lamp on, clean it with a cloth moistened with alcohol to avoid leaving fingerprints that may lead to the formation of hot spots, which may decrease the lifetime of the new lamp.

The existing drain cut in each glass of the turn signals must always be facing down.

TAIL LIGHT The tail light (1) is of LEDs and does not allow the replacement or repair. In case of failure of the parking lamp or the brake, it is necessary to replace the complete rear spoiler.

HEADLIGHT RANGE Adjustment To adjust the range of the headlight you should turn the screw located under the optical (1).

If you turn in a clockwise direction the range will be higher, rotating counterclockwise the range will be less.



DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER

The digital speedometer gives information on the instantaneous speed and partial or total distance traveled. Depending on the trading market, the speed and distances are shown in kilometers or miles.

To switch between the total distance for the trip distance press the button 1. To reset the trip distance this must be selected; press button 1 until the value pass to zero.

CALIBRATE THE DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER When the digital speedometer is replaced, you must program the new digital speedometer, introducing the correct parameters according to the front wheel tire perimeter that is fitted on the bike. Procedure:

With the ignition key on, press both buttons simultaneously until appears on the display the letters "IP" on the left, and then "+> ∂ +" on the right side;

Press the left button to introduce the first

digit flashing the number "1" or "2" as the measure of the front tire perimeter of the bike;

Press the right button to change or activate the next digit (2, 3 or 4) which

should be flashing to introduce with the left button the appropriate number to obtain the correct value of the requested parameter;

After introducing the four digits corresponding to the perimeter of the front tire of the bike, press again the right button to validate, exit the menu and return to normal operation of the gauge.

Model Front wheel Perimeter SM 17” 1790mm MX 19” 1950mm EN 21” 2200mm

To choose between kilometers and miles it must:

Turn on the ignition key on; Expect the speedometer to make the

starting procedure; Press both buttons for 3 seconds; Select "Mile" or "Km" with the left button; Confirm your choice with right button.

MOTORCYCLE CLEANING Clean the motorcycle regularly in order to maintain the beauty of plastic surfaces and prevent corrosion. The best way to do this is to use warm water mixed with cleaning detergent and a sponge.

The hard dirt can be removed with the help of a plastic brush and gentle water jet.

Avoid direct high pressure jets of water directly to the wheel bearings and steering stem bearings and also for the lamps in the headlight and electrical switches or the air filter area.

Use quality detergents to clean the motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should be cleaned with the help of a brush.

Before washing with water, plug the exhaust pipe to avoid getting water inside.

After washing with a soft water jet, it should be dried with compressed air and a cloth. Make a short ride or put the engine running and let idling until the engine reaches operating temperature and actuate the brakes. By heating these components, the remaining water will



evaporate from inaccessible parts of the engine and the brakes.

Once the motorcycle cools down, lubricate all moving parts of slide and support, lubricate the chain with chain spray.

To prevent malfunction of the electrical system, the emergency button, the headlamp control and connectors should be treated with a spray of electrical contacts.

! WARNING ! When washing the motorcycle never apply high pressure water jets directly to certain sensitive points of the bike, such as electrical and electronic components, air filter, control cables, oil cooler, exhaust nozzle orifice, the steering column bearings and wheels, etc. By penetrate these components, water (or humidity) can cause oxidation or corrosion and bad electrical contacts, causing the bike malfunction or even lead to premature destruction of these components. STICKERS New sticker’s application Note: Please read these instructions completely before new sticker’s application. Surface preparation Remove all stickers and wash carefully plastics with water and soap. Remove grease from old stickers with an appropriate grease remover. After plastic cleaning, wash your hands and dry them. Stickers should be applied in a clean, warm and dry room. Application Start by graphic alignment. On stickers with holes, start alignment there. On stickers without holes you can use paper stripes to help alignment. Take out one end of protective paper and start applying it at plastic part. Do not press immediately with confirming alignment.

After correctly aligned, continue with paper removal and sticker application. Press sticker from inside to borders, to remove air bubbles. For a perfect adherence, use a hot air blower (hair dryer). Apply warm air for 5 seconds at a 5/7 cm and remove air bubbles again. Let stickers rest for 48 before any sport or cleaning activity. Note: for a longer sticker’s life, do not apply water jets over them.

Chapter 4 – Lubrication


SERVICE INFORMATION SPECIFICATIONS


Oil capacity Engine 125cc 200/240cc Replace every

2.000km Change / Replace 1 Liter 1,1 Liters

When disassembling the engine 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters

Lubrication Forced by trocoidal oil pump Z39 Z37 -

Recommended engine oil

Brand ENI-AGIP

Type Classification API: SF or SG Viscosity: SAE 20W-50

Oil filter Grid Reusable

Centrifugal filter Rotor on the crankshaft

125/200cc Ø68mm

240cc Ø58mm

Oil pump Clearance in the tip 0,15 0,20

Clearance in the body 0,15 – 0,21 0,35

Clearance in the end 0,03 – 0,12 0,15

Screws in the rotors cover M4x10 -

Tightening of the cap screws 3N.m (0,3Kgf.m) -

Pump chain sprocket cover bolts (engine 240)

M5x20 -

Tightening of the screws on the cover

5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) -

Pump mounting bolts M6x30 - Tightening of the screws fixing the oil pump 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) -

O-ring pump seals on the engine crankcase 2 O-rings 9,4x2,4mm -

Oil cooler (On 200/240cm3 engines)

Thread type M12x1,5 - Racord screws banjos on the radiator M12x1,25X30 -

Tightening of the screws M12 racord 29N.m (3,0Kgf.m) -

Sealing rings 12,3x20x16 -

Spacer 10mm -

SERVICE INFORMATION 4 – 1 CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER ROTOR

4 – 4

TROUBLESHOOTING 4 – 2 OIL PUMP 4 – 6

RADIATOR AND OIL PIPES 4 – 2 LUBRICATION SCHEME 4 – 12



Radiator fixing screws M6x30 w/ tab -

Oil pipes Sealing washers 8mm 8,2x14,5x1,5 - Sealing washers 10mm 10,2x16x1,2 - Sealing washers 12mm 12,3x20x16 -

GENERAL INFORMATION

! WARNING ! Used oil may cause cancer if you contact repeatedly with the skin for extended periods. It is recommended to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling used oil.

TROUBLESHOOTING Engine oil level too low - high oil consumption:

External oil leaks; Worn piston Segments; Faulty cylinder head gasket.

Engine oil contamination: Oil changed a few times; Faulty cylinder head gasket; Worn piston rings.

RADIATOR AND OIL PIPES OIL PIPES Aspect of the new oil pipes

Removal Note: For reasons of space, if necessary to remove both tubes it must first be removed the oil outlet pipe (long) and then

there will be more space for removing the inlet tube (short). Outlet pipe (long) Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 2); Remove the racord screw (1) on banjo outlet pipe in the radiator, use two wrenches to avoid damaging the oil radiator;

Remove the tube by loosening the racord (2) on the right crankcase cover.

Inlet pipe (short) Remove the banjo bolt (1) in the inlet pipe on the right crankcase;



Remove the screw from the oil inlet pipe (2) and sealing rings on the lower racord of the radiator, using two wrenches not to damage the oil radiator.

Remove the oil inlet pipe.

Inspection

Check that the racord screws and the oil hose is clogged, damaged or worn and replace if necessary. The engine should never work with damage on the oil pipes or the radiator.

If they are clogged, clean it with a non-flammable solvent with high combustion point.

! WARNING ! Never use gasoline or solvents with a low flash point to clean the oil passage tubes. Can cause fire or explosion.

Assembly Place each oil pipe in the correct position, between the front engine supports and the frame, as shown in the following image.

Outlet pipe Assemble the racord screw with sealing rings in the upper oil cooler banjo.

Tighten the screw to the specified torque value by keeping the oil pipe banjo aligned with the frame tube. Note: Do not bend the oil outlet pipe.

Inlet pipe

Assemble the lower racord in the right crankcase cover and tighten according to the specified torque value.

Assemble the screw racord with sealing rings made of copper in the lower banjo oil cooler.

Note: Do not bend the oil inlet pipe. Make sure that the oil pipe is not positioned against the exhaust curves.

Adjust the two pipes in the correct position before the final tightening on the oil cooler.

Tighten the racord screw of the oil inlet pipe to the radiator with the specified tightening. Always use a 22mm wrench to lock the hexagon socket of the radiator to avoid damage during tightening.

Tightening torques: Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (200cm3 / M8x1): 26N.m (2,7Kgf.m) Oil pipe banjo on the right crankcase (M10x1,25): 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m) Oil pipe racord on the clutch cover (M8x1): 26N.m (2,7Kgf.m)



Oil pipe racord on the clutch cover (M10x1,25): 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m) Banjos screws of the oil pipes on the radiator (M12x1,25): 34N.m (3,5Kgf.m) Put the engine running and check the perfect sealing of the lubrication circuit, making sure that there is no oil leakage.

CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER ROTOR This centrifugal rotor (1) is on the engine crankshaft, wherein whose walls are being deposited small burrs due to the action of centrifugal force as the oil for lubricating passes by the connecting rod / crankshaft during engine operation.

Periodically should be done a cleaning to this filter / rotor. It is recommended that this be done every 12.000 Km, or when is necessary to change the clutch plates.

Removal To remove this centrifugal rotor the following steps should be followed:

Support the motorcycle on its side stand; Drain the engine oil (page 3-5); Remove the brake pedal;

Remove the kick starter pedal (if

applicable); Remove the clutch cable on the lever on

the engine;

Remove all the screws and remove the right crankcase cover;



For 200 / 240cm3 engines with oil cooler,

the cover may be resting besides front wheel avoiding remove the oil pipe;

Remove the circlip and remove the nylon

sprocket in the oil pump.

For some 240cm3 engines you must first

remove the cover over the steel sprocket;

Remove the three screws on the

centrifugal impeller cover. Care should be taken not to break the rotor if it has to use an impact wrench to loosen these screws on the rotor cover;

Then remove the centrifugal impeller using

two special tools to loosen the crankshaft, one to lock the crankshaft and the other to fit the special nut;

Finally remove the centrifugal impeller and

clean all possible burrs and dirt that exist in their walls.



Assembly The assembly of the centrifugal impeller should be done in reverse order to its removal, applying the torque required at each stage. Tightening torques: Rotor/centrifugal filter nut on the crankshaft: 83N.m (8,5Kgf.m) Rotor cover / centrifugal filter oil screws: 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) Screws from the sprocket cover of the pump (240cm3): 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) Screws from the right crankcase cover: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Nut and bolt bearing pivot of the rear brake pedal: 20N.m (2,0Kgf.m)

Note: Pay attention to the state of the gasket of the right crankcase cover, if necessary replace or apply a silicone wire. Pay attention to the tightening torque of each screw / nut by applying the specified tightening.

OIL PUMP Aspect of the engine oil pump.

Removal Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 3). Remove the brake pedal (page 4 - 4); Remove the kick starter pedal; Remove the right crankcase cover (page 4-5); Remove the circlip and remove the follower gear of the oil pump.

In some versions of the 240 cm3 engines oil pump is slightly different, so it is necessary to remove two further components:

Two screws; Sprocket cover.



Remove the two fixing screws the oil pump with a star screwdriver (if necessary use a impact wrench to loosen both screws).

Remove the oil pump.

Remove the O-rings of the slots in the engine crankcase.

Unscrew the two M4x12 PH screws and remove the cover of the rotors.

Wash and dry all parts before inspecting the components of the oil pump.



Inspection

! WARNING ! If any component of the oil pump is worn over the service limit, replace the oil pump as a set. Note: Note the position of all parts during disassembly so you can assemble the parts in the same position.

It should be taken into consideration the following operations: Wash and clean all components of the oil

pump before inspecting or assemble;

Measure in several places and use the highest value to compare with the service limit;

If any portion of the oil pump is worn beyond the specified service limits, replace the entire oil pump set.

Measure the clearance between the inner and outer rotor.

Service limit: 0,20mm

Measure the clearance between the outer rotor and the pump housing.


Measuring the clearance between the outer rotor and the face of the pump casing, use a precision ruler and a blade caliper.

Service limit: 0,15mm Removal Remove the following components:

Rotor cover; Inner and outer rotor;

Rotor shaft;



Pump Gear.

Inspect the two rotors.

Check the shaft of the pump gears and rotor pin for wear or damage.

Inspect the body of the oil pump for the existence of excessive wear signs.

Assembly Fit the inner rotor on the outside with the marks facing the outside.

Enter the axis on the rotor with the pin inserted into the existing countersink.

Apply oil on the inner and outer rotors and put it on the body of the oil pump.



Install the set of pump gears with the rotor shaft in the pump housing, aligning the flat surfaces of the gear and shaft.

Assemble the cover on the rotors, with the protruding end aligned with the recess in the pump housing.

Tighten the two screws to the correct torque.

In the pump of the 240cc engine, if applicable, to install the rotor cover align the guide with the tooth in the pump housing.

Install the rotor cover screws and tighten to the specified tightening.

Tightening torques: Cover screws of pump rotors: 3N.m (0,3kgf.m) Pump sprocket cover bolts (240cm3): 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) Assemble the follower sprocket and fit the circlip correctly.

Ensure that the oil pump turns smoothly before installing on the engine.

Installation Cover the sealing rings using oil and install in the lower crankcase slots.

Align the holes in the drive gear of the oil pump with the holes of the fixing screws of the oil pump.



Install the oil pump in the engine crankcase and tighten the fixing screws.

Assemble the right crankcase cover by tightening all screws with the specified torque. Then should be placed the engine oil.

Tightening torques: Fixing screws of the oil pump: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Bolts of the right crankcase cover: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Note: Pay attention to the state of the gasket of the right crankcase cover, if necessary replace or apply silicone seal. Pay attention to the tightness of all screws, applying the specified torque.



LUBRICATION SCHEME CIRCUIT OF THE ENGINE WITHOUT OIL COOLER

Chapter 5 – Fuel feed system


SERVICE INFORMATION GENERAL

! WARNING !

Working in a location with adequate ventilation. Smoke, flames or sparks in the workplace or where gasoline is stored can cause a fire or explosion.

Before cleaning the air and fuel passages with compressed air, make sure that the secondary air pump is removed otherwise it may be damaged.

When removing the feeding system, observe the location of the sealing rings. Replace with new where, during assembly, show wear or damage.

Note: By removing the carburetor, place a suitable container for gasoline under the end of the drain tube, preventing spread gasoline. After removing the carburetor, seal the engine intake nozzle orifice using a clean cloth or cover it with tape to prevent foreign material from entering the engine.

PR3 / PR4 models only consumes unleaded gasoline with minimum 95 octane. Never use leaded gasoline to not destroy the catalyst and the exhaust system of the motorcycle.

If the bike remain immobilized or stored for more than one month, drain the float chamber. Leave gasoline in the float chamber without the bike being used for long periods of time can cause obstruction of the jets, resulting in difficulties to put the engine running at start or inadequate driving the vehicle.

! DANGER ! Fuel is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN. Work in a well-ventilated area with the engine stopped. Do not smoke, do not let flames or sparks in the work area or where the fuel is stored. Clean immediately any spillage of fuel.

SPECIFICATIONS

Item Specification Fuel pump Paiolli, by vacuum Outlet pipe between deposit / filter

Ø9x5x220mm

Outlet pipe between filter / pump

Ø9x5x220mm

Outlet pipe between pump / derivation T

Ø9x5x170mm

Feeding tube between T / carburetor

Ø9x5x60mm

Return pipe between T / deposit

Ø9x5x385mm

Vacuum tube between the pump / intake manifold

Ø9x5x210mm

SERVICE INFORMATION 5 – 1 FUEL PUMP 5 – 5

TROUBLESHOOTING 5 – 2 CARBURETOR 5 – 8

AIR FILTER BOX 5 – 3 ADJUSTMENTS 5 – 20

FUEL TANK 5 – 4 SPECIFICATIONS FOR CARBURETORS SET-UP 5 – 23

FUEL FILTER 5 – 5 ASSEMBLY SCHEMES 5 – 25



TROUBLESHOOTING The motor rotates but does not start: No fuel in the tank;

The fuel does not reach the carburetor: Fuel filter obstructed; Fuel line obstructed; Breathe hose fuel tank cap obstructed

or damaged; Suction pipe obstructed; Vacuum pipe damaged; Fuel pump damaged.

Fuel excess (soaked engine): Air filter obstructed; Soaked carburetor.

Intake air leak;

Fuel contaminated: Jets obstructed.

Malfunctioning air lever (CHOKE) or air sealing butterfly;

Malfunctioning of the throttle;

No spark in the spark plug (faulty ignition system).

Lean mixture Clogged fuel jet;

Faulty float valve;

Very low float level;

Restricted fuel line;

Carburetor breather hose clogged;

Fuel tank breather hose restricted;

Intake air leak;

Faulty throttle valve.

Rich mixture Closed air valve / CHOKE (malfunction of

the air lever / CHOKE);

Air jet clogged;

Faulty float valve;

Very high float level;

Very dirty air filter;

Needle or needle diffuser with too much wear;

Main jet loosened.

The engine turns off, the start is difficult or idling is irregular: Restricted fuel line;

Fuel mixture very poor / rich;

Fuel contaminated / damaged: Minimum jet clogged;

Intake air leak;

Idling out of adjustment;

Breather in fuel tank cap clogged or damaged;

Dirty air filter;

Mixture screw out of adjustment;

Defective ignition system.

Backfire or failures during acceleration: Poor mixture;


Underperforming (handling) and high fuel consumption: Fuel system clogged;




AIR FILTER BOX Removal Remove the following components: Remove the seat and side covers (see Chapter 2); Loosen the screw and remove the air filter;

Loosen the clamp of the inlet pipe in rubber of the carburetor;

Remove the filter housing with the rubber tube included;

Remove the four screws and separate the filter housing cover;

Remove the existing old silicone, wash the box and the cover and dry with compressed air;

Apply evenly a silicone string along the edge of the cover and fit the cover on the filter housing, tightening after the four screws taking care not to damage the plastic threat;



Installation Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque:

Air filter fixing screw: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m)

FUEL TANK

Removal Remove the seat and side covers (see Chapter 2); Remove rear frame (see Chapter 2); Remove the four screws fastening the fuel tank and remove it from the rear frame.

Remove the suction pipe and the phalange of the return tube with the respective gaskets.

Check that the suction pipe is not broken or clogged.

Check that the phalange of the return and the gasket are in good condition.




Type-specific bolts: oval head M6x12

Tightening torque: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Note: Only use screws with the correct length (M6x12) to avoid damaging the tank when tightening the fuel tank to the rear frame and the rear fender in the fuel tank.

An incorrect installation of fuel pipes can cause possible engine malfunction.

! DANGER !

Fuel pipes must be properly positioned to ensure that they never touch in the exhaust or become pinched / crushed. This contact can cut the pipes and cause a fuel spill, which can lead to loss of motorcycle control or cause the beginning of a fire.

FUEL FILTER The fuel filter (1) is mounted between the right frame beam and the carburetor, under the seat. It is only necessary to remove the filter from the pipes to make the replacement.

It must be replaced when it is observed the existence of dirt on the inside, because the accumulation of any dirt may damage the

pump, restrict or block the flow of fuel causing loss of power and irregular engine operation.

FUEL PUMP The fuel pump which PR3 / PR4 works by vacuum in the intake manifold created by the passage of air drawn in by the engine.

This double membrane pump automatically cuts the flow of fuel when the engine is switched off. So the bike does not have gasoline shut-off valve. During refueling operations, it is very important to ensure that do not pass into the tank any impurities such as water or soil / mud that may be accumulated next to the threaded filler cap. If impurities reach the inside of the fuel pump, will damage the membranes / valves, disabling the fuel pump. The use of contaminated fuel will also damage the fuel pump. In case of any malfunction of the fuel pump, it should be replaced as a complete set.

Note: Despite not being available any parts / components to repair the fuel pump, it can be dismantled for cleaning purposes.

Removal Remove the seat and side covers (see Chapter 2); Remove the air filter housing (see page 5 – 4); Remove the three connection pipes of pump, the inlet, the outlet and the vacuum;



Remove the two screws and nuts that hold the fuel pump to the frame.

Fuel pump disassembly Note: Prior to disassembling the fuel pump, it is recommended to take note or make a reference mark as help to ensure that reassembly later of the covers in the fuel pump is in the correct position. Remove the four screws (1) on the cover.

Carefully separate the top cover from the body without damaging the gasket and plastic diaphragm.

Separate the base cover off the pump body carefully to avoid damaging the gasket and the respective plastic diaphragm.

Check each part’s condition, checking that show no sign of corrosion or deterioration.

In the pump housing, inspect the pump membranes on the base side. Check the membranes on the side of the top cover.



When washing the pumps parts, a suitable solvent must be used to not damage the rubber membranes or diaphragms. Thoroughly clean each component of the pump and blow gently to avoid damaging the plastic membranes and/or the rubber base.

Assembly of the fuel pump Make the assembly in reverse order of removal.

Confirm that each part is installed in the correct position (as notes or reference marks made previously) in order to ensure the proper functioning of the fuel pump.

At the end progressively tighten the four bolts "X".


On models with 240cm3 engine, the fixing screw on the right side of the fuel pump should be installed with the nut facing up to not prevent the cover removal of the inlet valve, where it is necessary to further adjust the engine valves.

When tightening the fuel pump on the frame strengthening only apply the specified torque not to break the pump.


Connect the pipes in the correct position.



CARBURETOR Carburetor removal Remove the seat and side covers.

Remove the air filter; loosen the clamp on the inlet tube in the carburetor and remove the filter housing with the rubber tube included.

Drain float chamber and release the fuel pipe. In older models, release the cold start air cable (CHOKE).

Unscrew the cover with the throttle cable and remove the piston out of the carburetor.

Unscrew the nut on the adjuster holder of the "power jet" and release the cable into the auxiliary pump.

Remove the two M6 nuts (circliped) with the respective plate washers, if applied. Pull the carburetor backward to get out of the bolts on the inlet manifold.

Rotate the carburetor ¼ turn anti-clockwise, so that the air lever (choke) is facing the bushing of the beams and the shock absorber.

Pull the carburetor up to remove it carefully (looking for the best position to pass the carburetor by the available space) to



completely release it from the reservoir of the damper (if applied) and the frame beams.

Carburetor disassembly Wash the carburetor. With a star key, remove the three screws M4x12 PH.

Remove the float chamber being careful not to lose the O-ring seal on the pump fuel passage of the auxiliary power jet.

Note: When washing the float chamber be careful not to lose the O-ring, or take off the gasket of the float chamber. Put your fingers on top while blowing with compressed air.

With screwdriver, remove the main jet (maximum) and the idle (minimum).

With a 7mm key, remove the main diffuser of the needle, and then also remove the diffuser bushing to not lose it when you blow.

Remove the float shaft / pin and remove the float together with the respective conical valve.



Disassemble the cable holder.

Remove the pulley with the spring and the nylon bushing as well as the arm / cam of the power jet pump.

Remove the dust cover bellow the diaphragm rod in the vat.

In the vat unscrew the three PH M4x8 screws and remove the pump cover, followed by disassembling the diaphragm along with the spring.

On the side of the float chamber gasket remove the auxiliary pump pressure valve.

On the auxiliary pump cover, remove carefully the valve composed by the injector, one spring and a small sphere.



Pay attention to the correct position of these parts during disassembly.

Inspect each of the jet power system components.

Check for possible cracks, damage or if the diaphragm is parched or with rust on the stem.

Remove the cold start air lever (choke) by unscrewing the PH M5x10 screw and drop the plate / retaining spring.

Be careful not to lose the positioning sphere which is housed in air lever.

Remove the idling bolt with the spring.

Remove the air adjusting screw, being careful not to lose the respective spring with the washer and an O-ring which can sometimes be retained inside the hole in the carburetor.



WASHING AND CLEANING THE CARBURETOR Make a wash and the most thorough cleaning possible and blow out with compressed air each part to remove all dirt and any residue that may exist in the carburetor.

There should be paid special attention to the residues that often are formed and accumulate around the main diffuser and in the respective carburetor hole.

Do not allow the gaskets, O-ring seals or dust cover rubbers remain too long in contact with the solvent used in cleaning the carburetor parts, so they are not damaged. After washing the parts, dry out quickly with compressed air.

Blow very well each hole and internal conducts of the carburetor to eliminate completely any impurities that may clog the carburetor and prevent their proper functioning.

INSPECTION OF CARBURETOR Check that the float chamber does not have cracks or warping, or if the breather inner tube is not broken. If necessary, replace the gasket of the float chamber to assemble the set.

Remove the drain screw in the float chamber and replace the sealing ring.

Remove the jets and verify the calibration and any damage.

Clean the jets with fuel and compressed air to remove impurities.

Also remove the mixture adjusting screw.

Remove and check the pin (1), the float (2) and the needle (3) regarding the existence of possible damage.

Check the operation of air butterfly.



Ensure that there is no excessive wear on the air butterfly pivot shaft and the respective spring, and that the screws are properly blocked.

Inspect the settlement of the conical valve in the carburetor body.

Notes:

Check possible wear, cracks or leaks in the float, it can cause excessive fuel consumption.

Check the weight of the float, if it is outside the specified should be replaced.

Also check possible wear on the tip of the valve and also the settlement located in the carburetor has excessive wear. If it is found, replace the assembly.

Float Weight: 10 gr (+-1 gr).

If you experience any of the above items, replace the diaphragm.

Clean and blow with compressed air and make the assembly in the reverse order.

Check each jets and confirm the diameter of the holes according to the specifications table for the carburetor that equips the bike model in question.

Note:

In carburetors fitted earlier bikes from 2001 to 2011, the existing marking in the jets may not match the real diameter, since carburetors were intervened and jets were modified in AJP Motos to obtain the best regulation possible order to achieve more efficient operation of the motorcycle.

The PR3 / PR4 motorcycles produced since 2012 (inclusive), the existing marking in the jets match to the actual diameter of the holes of the injectors in PZ30 carburetor, with or without power jet pump.



Carburetor assembly Enter the diffuser cap in the correct position, and then assemble the needle of the diffuser.

The diffuser cap shall be assembled with the concave side facing down.

Then tighten the main diffuser with a 7mm key.

Tighten the idle jet with a screwdriver without damaging it.

Tighten the main jet with a screwdriver without damaging it.

Assemble the conical valve in the float.



Install the float assembly into the carburetor, then entering the respective axis / pin.

Measure the level of the float with the carburetor in the position shown in the picture, and make sure that the level of the float is 14mm.

Install the air screw already with the spring, the washer and the respective O-ring and tighten the screw until it touches the end of the stroke, but without forcing to avoid damaging.

Use a permanent marker pen to mark the reference position of the air screw all tight, and then turn the screw counter-clockwise unscrewing it the turns needed to obtain the correct adjustment, referring to the table of specifications for carburetors.

In the pump cover, install the components of "power jet" into the correct position. First the spring, the sphere and then finally the injector. In the carburetor float chamber, assemble the diaphragm followed by respective spring.



Install the pump cover and tighten their respective three screws.

Then assemble the rubber dust cover on the stem and fit correctly.

Ensure that the O-ring and gasket are correctly placed in the float chamber, before assembling it in the carburetor.

You may need to apply contact adhesive (for rubber) to be able to keep the float chamber gasket in place.

Assemble the float chamber to the carburetor, making sure its correct fit. Tighten the vat with the three PH M5x16 screws.

If the idling screw was removed earlier, install now along with the respective spring.

Place the arm / cam power jet in the correct position, not forgetting to install the two rubber rings.

Enter the first rubber ring in the power jet cam pin.

Assemble the arm / cam power jet pump in the correct position.



Install the second rubber ring in the cavity of the arm.

Fit the spring on the pulley of the power cable jet, followed by nylon bushing guide.

Install the set in the respective pin on the right side of the carburetor.

Fit if a metal support into position and tighten the PH M5x12 screw. Verify proper operation.

Check the correct operation of the cam and the power jet arm in the carburetor.



Choke lever:

Place the washer plate in the air lever pin in the carburetor body.

Install the choke lever, without forgetting its sphere.

Assemble the plate / retaining spring in the correct position and tighten the PH M5x10 screw.

Check the correct operation of the choke lever, in synchronization with the butterfly. The retention of the lever must be made in three predefined positions as:

- Air closed (switch up);

- Heating position (the lever in the middle);

- Open air (all switch down).

Carburetor aspect with cable in choke lever actuated by a small lever located in the dimmer switch on the left handlebar grip, used in early models of PR4.

The plate / retaining spring is replaced by the support for the cable, and on the tab is fitted a spring to make the return of the lever of the air at fully open position.

Carburetor adjustment The adjustment should be performed after being made a thorough cleaning the carburetor. In order to allow a setting as accurate as possible, it is very important to closely follow the technical specifications recommended by AJP Motos, as shown in the specification table for regulation of carburetors (page 5-23)

Carburetor installation on the bike Enter the carburetor a bit skewed to the left side, with the choke lever turned for the shock absorber.



Install the throttle cable on the plunger and insert the piston by aligning the piston groove by the protruding guide which exists within the hole in the carburetor. Tighten the piston cap.

Assemble the power jet cable and proceed to adjustments in the adjuster until the marks (lines) inside the metal support and the pulley are aligned when the throttle is fully open.

The pulley cable from the power jet pump has a mark (dash) reference to the cable adjuster. When the throttle is fully open, the raised

mark on the pulley must be aligned with the mark (dash) on the cable holder. If this does not happen, adjust the adjuster in the cable holder in the carburetor.

Note: This adjustment should be carried out before fitting the carburetor on the intake nozzle phalange on the bike.

Fit the carburetor in the intake nozzle pins and tighten with the two M6 nuts without exceeding the recommended torque, not to bend the flange of the carburetor.

Make sure all pipes are in good condition, and in the correct position before installing the air filter box.

The feeding tube with the fuel filter comes from the suction pipe in the tank and must pass between the carburetor and the power jet cable, to not getting smashed against the frame beam.



The return pipe must exit the T derivation and pass parallel to the rear extension of electrical wiring and between the beams bushing and the shock absorber.

Check the connection position of the fuel pipes in the tank.

ENGINE START Note: To prevent wearing the motorcycle battery, can be beneficial to put the engine running before finishing the installation of the air filter box.

Pull the choke switch up to the third position.

With the hand cover the carburetor inlet hole and start the engine until you feel your hand wet with gasoline.

Remove the hand and start the engine again, and if necessary open the throttle so that the engine starts if it has a little soaked.

Adjust the idle screw until the engine can idle at the right revolutions.

This way you can put the engine running without having to persistently insist with the starter to get the fuel to reach the carburetor if the air filter is already assembled on the motorcycle without overloading the battery.

ADJUSTMENTS Idling To adjust the idling, start the engine and let it heat up for a few minutes. Connect the tachometer (rev counter) and check the idling. If not within the specified, must be adjusted.

Idling: 1.400 rpm (+/- 100 rpm)

The idle speed is adjusted by the screw (1).



Note: In carburetors equipped with acceleration auxiliary pump (Power Jet) the access to the idling screw becomes more difficult and may require the use of a small specific tool (a handmade screwdriver, with the necessary curves to access the idle speed adjust screw), as can be seen in the following figure.

By rotating the screw towards clockwise increases the engine rpm; if loosened, by turning the screw in the anti-clockwise decreases the engine rpm.

Air / fuel mixture adjustment screw The adjustment screw of air / fuel mixture is located at the bottom of the carburetor, along the inlet flange.

By rotating the screw in a clockwise direction decreases the amount of fuel (lean mixture), by rotating in the opposite direction increases the amount of fuel (rich mixture).

Note:

The mixing screw is already adjusted from factory but due to the pressure difference related with altitude in some regions, it may be necessary to adjust it according to the needs.

Close the mixture screw until it touches their settlement (do not tighten).

Loosen the mixture screw in 2 ¼ turns. If necessary, loosen or tighten the screw from that initial adjustment.

Mixing screw adjustment: 2 ¼ turns.

To be easier to access and adjust the air / fuel ratio adjusting screw is recommended to use a special tool as shown in the above figure and should be identified in the following similar figure.



Note: For technical reasons and specific adjustment of the carburetor, we strongly recommend that any work on the carburetor to be performed only and only by an experienced mechanic.

For improved regulation of the carburetors should be consulted the following table that meets the specifications of carburetors used in AJP models.



SPECIFICATIONS OF CARBURETORS SET-UP (OLD VERSIONS)


PR4 125 CPI (2001 / 2004)

PR4 125 ZS (2005 / 2007)

PR4 200 ZS (2005 / 2007)

PR3 125 (2008 / 2012)

PR3 200 (2009 / 2012)

PR3/PR4 200 MX (2007 / 2012)

PR3/PR4 France (2010 / 2011)

Carburetor SHENG WEI PD5 (PZ27)

SHENG WEI PD5 (PZ27) Walbro PZ30 SHENG WEI

PD5 (PZ27) Walbro PZ30 DE NI PZ30

Venturi diameter 26mm 26mm 30mm 26mm 30mm Main jet # 115 (# 118) # 95 # 120 # 95 # 95 # 110 # 110 Idle jet # 50 # 45 # 50 # 45 # 45 # 50 # 45 Air screw 1.5 turns 3/4 turn 2 turns 3/4 turn 1 turn 2 turns 1.5 turns Needle Bridle 1st slot 3rd

slot Piston Needle 125KA AAA 125KA AAA CO Needle diffuser M7x M7x 5+5+2+2 Top diffuser Ø2,66 cylinder Accelerator piston O1C Ø22 CO Ø24 O1C Ø22 CO Ø24 O-ring phalange 29x2,5 34x2 29x2,5 34x2 33,5x2,5 Float K 22-8 SF 172-2 K 22-8 SF 172-2 Valve seat hole Ø2,0mm Float level 12mm 14mm Conical valve float Ø5,2x17 Float axis Ø2,5x25 Power jet pump Yes Rings in the arm - - 2 - 2 O-ring from the vat 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5 4x1 4x1,5 O-ring air screw 2,5x1 O-ring on the drain screw vat

4x1,2 Breather pipe 4x6,5x370 Air tab (choke) By cable Manual Ring air tab - 5,3x9,8x0,9 Idling speed (rpm) 1400 (+/-100)



SPECIFICATIONS OF CARBURETORS SET-UP (CURRENT VERSIONS)


PR4 Brasil (2011 / ...) PR3/PR4 (2013 / …)

200 240 125 200 240 Carburetor DE NI PZ30 Venturi diameter 30mm Main jet # 105 Idle jet # 48 Air screw 2,5 turns Needle Bridle 3ª slot Piston Needle CO Needle diffuser M7x 5+5+2+2 Top diffuser Cylinder Ø2,66 Accelerator piston CO Ø24 O-ring phalange 33,5x2,5 Float SF 172-2 Valve seat hole Ø2,0mm Float level 14mm Conical valve float Ø5,2x17 Float axis Ø2,5x25 Power jet pump Yes Rings in the arm 2 O-ring from the vat 4x1,5 O-ring air screw 2,5x1 O-ring on the drain screw vat 4x1,2 Breather pipe 4x6,5x370 Air tab (choke) Manual Ring air tab 5,3x9,8x0,9 Idling speed (rpm) 1400 (+/-100)



ASSEMBLY SCHEMES

CARBURETOR

Please refer to parts list information regarding parts identification and part numbers.

Chapter 6 – Engine removal / installation


SERVICE INFORMATION Specifications

General During removal and installation of the engine, the motorcycle must be supported on a stand or box, with the wheels on the ground / floor.

A jig or adjustable support is needed to maneuver (disassemble / assemble) and repair the engine.

The following components can be handled with the engine installed on the frame:

Oil pump; Timing chain/tensioner; Clutch / star and gear selector, gear

lever; Alternator (stator, magnetic flywheel

and start-up clutch).

The following components must be handled with the engine out of the frame:

Cylinder head and valves; Cylinder and piston; Crankshaft; Gearbox / forks / gears drum; Kick start shaft.

Tightening torques

Shaft nut of the motor / swing arm: 93N.m (9,5kgf.m) Screw / nut of the connecting rod to the frame / arm: 49N.m (5,0kgf.m) Front engine fixing bolts (to the engine): 42N.m (4,3kgf.m) Front engine fixing bolts (to the frame): 26N.m (2,7kgf.m) Lower fixing screw of the beams: 39N.m (4,0kgf.m)

Plate bolts to fix the drive pinion: 10N.m (1,0kgf.m) Drive pinion cover screws: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Gears pedal screw: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Bolts and nuts fixing the oil cooler: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Nut on the starter cable: 8N.m (0,8kgf.m) Nuts on the carburetor flange to the intake nozzle: 10N.m (1,0kgf.m) Screws of the inlet nozzle: 10N.m (1,0kgf.m) Crankcase protection screws: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m)

SERVICE INFORMATION 6 – 1 ENGINE INSTALLATION 6 – 6

ENGINE REMOVAL 6 – 2 ENGINE START 6 – 11

ITEM SPECIFICATION

125cm3 200cm3 240cm3

Engine oil capacity Change / Replace 1 Liter 1,1 Liters 1,1 Liters

Engine removal 1,1 Liters 1,2 Liters 1,2 Liters

Engine weight 29Kg 33,5Kg 34Kg



ENGINE REMOVAL Remove the crankcase protection bolts (page 2 – 5); Drain the engine oil (page 3 – 6);

Note: Support the motorcycle on a stand or box, with the wheels on the ground / floor before proceeding with the procedures for removing the engine. Remove the seat (page 2 – 3); Remove the side covers (page 2 – 2); Remove the air filter cover (only exists on models with catalytic exhaust).

Remove the air filter.

Remove the filter housing with the rubber tube included;

Loosen the fuel pipe at the pump, and place it in the guide pin of the seat in order to get more space; Remove the piston cover (1) out of the carburettor; Unscrew the two M6 nuts (2) on the flange and remove the carburettor;

Note: In order to avoid removing the throttle cable, the carburettor assembly could be placed next to the right frame beam.



Remove the vacuum pipe of the intake nozzle and the inlet nozzle itself so as to ease removal and installation of the engine.

Remove the exhaust pipe and then the exhaust tube (page 2 – 6); Remove the gear pedal (1); Remove the screws on the drive sprocket cover; Remove the drive sprocket cover (2).

Engage 1st gear to block the pinion; Unscrew and remove the screws on the drive pinion;

Turn the pinion fixation plate until its teeth are aligned by the splines of the secondary shaft, so that it is possible to remove it.

Pull the drive pinion out of secondary shaft and release the chain.



Note: If necessary, loosen the nut of the rear axle and loosen the adjusting screws on tensioners to give clearance to the chain and allow their removal in the drive pinion.

Depart the protective rubber in the terminal and loosen the nut on the starter cable terminal; Release the cable in the starter motor; Cut the plastic clamp fixing the cable from the rear stop switch to the wiring; Disconnect the rear stop switch connector and drop of the ring on the rear engine support;

Remove the flange / record of the connecting pipe to the secondary air pump (if it exists);

Remove the spark plug cap;

Loosen the cable on the clutch lever;

Unscrew the adjuster and remove the clutch cable on the engine;

Disengage the connector on the stator cable wiring (you may need to loosen the clamps in the shock absorber reservoir to release the cable);



Models with engines 200 / 240cm3 must be also removed the following:

Right front grille; Battery and battery holder;

Loosen the screws and remove the two distance bushings to release the oil cooler in the reinforcement fixation of the frame;

Remove the oil cooler (can remain with tight tubes and come out together with the engine);

Remove the two screws on the engine fixation with the distance bushings;

Unscrew the four screws and remove the engine front brackets of the frame;

Unscrew 5mm the two lower fixing screws of the beams to the cradle of the frame to give clearance between the beams and the swing arm;



Unscrew and remove the nut / shaft of the swing arm; Remove the connecting screw of the suspension connecting rods;

Pull the swing arm slightly back in order to get out of the alignment of the rear engine support;

Remove the engine from the left side;

With the left hand on the flywheel cover and the right hand on the clutch cover grab the engine, tilt the cylinder head back and simultaneously turning it to the left, until the exhaust manifold bolt and oil tubes (in the

case of 200 / 240cm3 engines) pass through the frame tube.

Tilt the engine to the left so that the flywheel cover is facing downwards; Pull the engine out of the frame.

ENGINE INSTALLATION Make assembly of the engine in the frame in reverse order of removal;

Assemble the rear support in the engine, with the roller chain guide.

In the case of motor 200 or 240, the oil cooler should also be assembled and installed together with the motor in the frame.



Enter the engine in the frame from the left side;

Pay attention to place the engine in its correct position, verify that the roller guide of the chain is positioned below it, as can be seen in the following figure.

Assemble the engine front brackets with the longer end facing up, with the distance bushings into position by the right holder (the screws enter on the right side);

Fit the arm with the nylon washers between the frame beams and engine support;

Apply a thin mass film on the shaft slide surface of the swing arm;

Assemble the shaft of the swing arm with the washer on the right side, put the nut with the washer and tighten to the specified torque;

Tighten the front engine support bolts with the specified torque value.



Tighten the two lower fixing screws of the beams to the cradle of the frame, with the specified torque value.

Assemble and tighten the screw of the suspension connecting rods, with the specified torque value.

Tightening torques: Shaft nut of the motor / swing arm: 93N.m (9,5kgf.m) Front engine fixing bolts (to the engine): 42N.m (4,3kgf.m) Front engine fixing bolts (to the frame): 26N.m (2,7kgf.m) Lower fixing screw of the beams: 39N.m (4,0kgf.m)

Assemble the oil cooler, introducing the bolts with the distance bushings according to the position illustrated in the following image.

Note: Make sure that the radiator will never be placed flat against the cylinder head to prevent any damage due to vibration.

Tightening torque: Bolts and nuts fixing the oil cooler: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Assemble the clutch cable on the support and the clutch lever and adjust the proper clearance.

Note: For safety reasons, the clutch cable should be placed in position and secured with two plastic clamps as shown in the following image.



Assemble and tighten the exhaust manifold and then the exhaust pipe (page 2 – 6);

Note: First point the screws and the nut on the exhaust manifold before tightening definitively in the cylinder head and the right beam. Place and tighten the starter cable in the correct position;

Place the spark plug cap;

Connect the stator connector and place it in the correct position with the fixing bracket (or behind the shock absorber reservoir support in the PRO version);

Connect the rear stop switch connector and put in its correct position on the ring of the rear engine support;

Install the inlet nozzle and connect the respective vacuum pipe.

Appearance of different types of nozzles / inlet flange and the respective joint, used in several models of PR3 and PR4.

Install the carburetor and place the vat drain pipe in the proper position to avoid being burned by the exhaust.



Assemble the battery holder with the respective distance bushing in the upper fixation;

Assemble the flange / record of the connecting pipe to the secondary air pump (if it exists).

Place the battery (first connecting cables / red wires in the positive terminal and then the black cables / wires in the negative in last place);

Assemble the right front grill.

Install the drive chain onto the drive pinion and assemble the drive pinion on the output shaft;



Fit the retaining plate on the output shaft and align the holes by the pinion holes;

Note: Assemble the drive pinion with the letters facing outwards. Engage 1st gear and tighten the two screws with the specified torque value.

Assemble the gears pedal in the desired position.

Install the drive pinion cover and tighten the screws with the specified torque value.

Tightening torques: Plate bolts to hold drive pinion: 10N.m (1,0kgf.m) Drive pinion cover screws: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Gears pedal screw: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) After assembly, adjust the clearance of the drive chain (page 3 – 21).

Fill through the hole in the right crankcase cover the correct amount of the recommended engine oil (page 3 – 6).

Oil quantity required after disassembly of the engine:

125cm3 engines: 1,1 Liters 200/240cm3 engines: 1,2 Liters

ENGINE START Finally and to complete the whole process must be followed the following procedure in order to start the engine after it has been installed on the bike's frame and before assembling the air filter housing:

Start by closing the choke, raising the choke lever to the third position;

Turn on the ignition key. The kill switch tab should face the left side (to the "RUN");

Push start engine button to put engine running;

Notes: Cover the entrance hole in the

carburetor with your hand until you feel the palm wet with gasoline as the starter is actuated;

In case of flooding the engine with excess gasoline, scroll down the air lever and open the throttle until the engine starts.

Reconnect the ignition and engage the starter motor without accelerate until the engine starts;

Keep the engine at idle speed for one or two minutes to allow the oil to reach the entire engine lubrication circuit.

Start an appropriate oil level verification (page 3 – 6);

Inspect if there are no oil leaks in the radiator tubes and exhaust manifold, then turn off the engine;

Montar a caixa do filtro de ar juntamente com o tubo de borracha e de seguida o respetivo filtro de ar.



Assemble seat;

Assemble side covers;

Remove the motorcycle out of the stand / support and assemble the sump protection, if applicable;

Perform a dynamic test on the road to check the correct operation of the motorcycle.

Chapter 7 – Cylinder head and valves

Manual de Oficina AJP PR3/PR4 (2015) 7 - 1

SERVICE INFORMATION GENERAL This chapter will focus on service in the timing chain, camshaft, cylinder head, valves and distribution. It is recommended to perform the services to all of these components after removing the engine of the motorcycle, but if it is related to the distribution (chain, sprocket and tensioner), which can be performed with the engine on the motorcycle.

! WARNING !

Working in a location with adequate ventilation. Smoke or allow flames or sparks in the workplace or where gasoline is stored can cause a fire or explosion.

Care must be taken when performing all these operations not to damage the contact faces (both the cylinder head cover, cylinder head as well as the cylinder). Also taking care to remove these components do not hit too hard.

All mentioned components after being removed should be cleaned and dried for later inspection.

Since the lubrication of the camshaft is carried out through the oil passages in the cylinder head, they shall be thoroughly cleaned and clear before making the assembly of the cylinder head.

Tightening torques: Cap nuts of the cylinder / cylinder head pins: 29N.m (3,0Kgf.m) Screws of the cylinder head cover: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Screws of the camshaft cover: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Timing sprocket screws: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Screw of the timing chain protection plate: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Screw from the timing chamber: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Bolts of the timing chain tensioner: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Timing tensioner bolt: 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m) Pivot bolt of the timing tensioner guide: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Adjustment nuts of the valve rocker arms: 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m) Retaining plate bolt of the rocker arms shafts: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Valve caps: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m) Covers of the crankcase cover holes: 8N.m (0,8kgf.m) Starter motor bolts: 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)

SERVICE INFORMATION 7 – 1 VALVE SEAT RECTIFICATION 7 – 9

REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD COVER 7 – 3 VALVES INSTALLATION 7 – 10

REMOVING VALVES ROCKER ARMS 7 – 4 TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION 7 – 11

REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD 7 – 5 CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION 7 – 12

VALVE REMOVAL 7 – 5 CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION 7 – 14

REMOVING TIMING CHAIN 7 – 6 CYLINDER HEAD COVER INSTALLATION

7 – 15

INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS 7 – 6



SPECIFICATIONS


Cylinder head

Compression in the cylinder 125cc engine 13,0kgf/cm2

(1275kPa 185psi) -

200cc engine 13,2kgf/cm2 (1294kPa, 188psi) -

240cc engine Warpage of the cylinder head - 0,1

Valves and valve guides

Valve clearance IN 0,05 -

EX 0,08 -

O.D. valve stem IN 5,450 – 5,465 5,42

EX 5,430 – 5,445 5,40

I.D. valve guide IN/EX 5,475 – 5,485 5,50

Clearance on the guide - stem IN 0,010 – 0,035 0,08

EX 0,030 – 0,055 0,10

Contact face valve / valve seat 1,1 – 1,3 1,5

Valve springs Dimensions IN/EX

Inside spring 39x17,5x12,5 37,8

Outside spring 44,5x26,5x19 43,9

Hammers valves

I.D. of the hammer IN/EX

12,000 – 12,018 12,100

O.D. of the hammer shaft 11,966 – 11,984 11,930

Clearance 0,016 – 0,052 0,084

Camshaft Height of the cams

125/200/ 240

IN 31,58 30,60

EX 31,40 30,20

240 Racing IN 32,70 31,80

EX 32,60 31,40

Warpage the camshaft 31,452 – 31,532 +- 0,1

Distribution Timing chain

125 4x98 Links -

200 7x100 Links -

240 7x102 Links -

Timing sprocket 125 Z34 -

200 / 240 Z34 -



REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD COVER Remove the motorcycle engine (page 6 – 2).

Remove the two screws M6x22 along with the support bushes and remove the starter.

Loosen the screw / cover of the distribution tensioner and the two cylinder head screws to remove the timing chain tensioner.

Remove the two valve caps.

Remove the camshaft cover and the access covers to the screw of the crankshaft and engine timing.

Place the piston in the top dead center in the compression phase and aligning the timing control marks aligned with the existing reference points on the cylinder head and the dot in the stator wheel to the left crankcase cover.

Unscrew the four flange screws and the cap nuts on the cylinder head cover and remove the cover off the cylinder head.



Unscrew the two screws on the camshaft timing sprocket and disengaging the rack, removing it then. The timing chain can be maintained tied a string to not fall into engine.

Remove the camshaft with the support bushing on the right side without losing the pin which can sometimes come off the bushing.

REMOVING VALVES ROCKER ARMS After the removal of the cylinder head cover and to remove the valves rocker arms that are located in this cover, the following procedures should be followed.

Remove the M6x20 screw that tightens the retaining plate of both rocker arm shafts;

Remove the shafts of the rocker arms (if necessary screw one M6 screw at the top of the shafts in case they are attached to pull them out).

Remove all components like this.



REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD Remove the spark plug; Unscrew the screw from the distribution chamber with 6mm plate washer; Remove the cylinder head.

Note: Engines 200 and 240cc may need to repeatedly move the cylinder head up and down to allow removal of the rubber bushing / seal ring rectangular in the front left cylinder stud.

Remove the cylinder head gasket with the two guide bushings.

VALVE REMOVAL Note: Use a special tool (valve springs compressor clamp) with appropriate adapters on the removal and installation of the valves in the cylinder head. Compress the springs only what is necessary to avoid causing damage to the valve springs.

Always replace the valves seals to prevent excessive oil consumption and ensure the correct operation of the engine.

Remove the clamps, remove the retaining cover and remove the valves.

Remove the springs and the two existing rings at the base of each valve.

Remove the seals on the valve guides in the cylinder head.



REMOVING TIMING CHAIN Remove the left crankcase cover.

Remove the stator. Remove the stator wheel.

Remove the pawl timing chain protection.

Remove the timing chain.

INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS Camshaft

Manually rotate the bearing of the camshaft. The bearing should rotate smoothly and quietly. Also make sure that the inner race fits with no gap in the camshaft.

Inspect the surfaces of the camshaft cams about the bruises, scratches or evidence of insufficient lubrication. Inspect the camshaft oil holes for the presence of foreign materials.

Measure the height of each cam on the camshaft.



Service limit

125/200/ 240

IN 30,6 EX 30,2

240 Racing

IN 31,8 EX 31,4

If any cam on the camshaft is damaged or excessively worn, inspect the oil passages and the valves rocker arms.

Rocker arms The rocker arms of the valves are equal in engines 125/200/240cc, both the inlet and exhaust.

Inspect the smooth surfaces of the rocker arm and of the rocker arm shafts for damage or wear. If it is verified any type of wear or damage on these components should be inspected the cams of the camshaft and the oil passages. The measurements of the inner and outer diameters as indicated in the figures shall comply with the use limit specified, as well as the subsequent calculation of the clearance between both components.

I.D. of the rocker arm Service limit: IN/EX - 12,1mm

O.D. of the rocker arm shaft Service limit: IN/EX - 11,93mm Clearance Service limit: IN/EX - 0,084mm

Chain tensioner / timing chain The tensioner shaft, when pushed, shall not penetrate into the body of the tensioner / stretcher. Rotate the shaft (within the housing) clockwise, using a screwdriver, the tensioner shaft must be pulled toward the body of the tensioner / stretcher. The shaft should jump out of the body of the tensioner / stretcher at the same time the screwdriver is released.



Inspect the gear teeth of the camshaft and the gear on the crankshaft for wear or damage. Inspect the timing chain links and both chain guides.

The timing chain should be replaced whenever it shows excessive wear, trapped links in joints or any other abnormal damage.

Note: Where the timing chain is replaced, it is recommended that the rack camshaft also be.

Also inspect the teeth of the pinion gear on the crankshaft for wear or damage.

Cylinder head Clean the cylinder head, removing possible carbon deposits from the combustion chamber.

Note: Be careful not to damage the valve seat or even the sealing gasket seating faces.

Inspect the spark plug hole and the area of the valves on the existence of damage.

Check if the valves nicely slide on the guides into the holes in the cylinder head without any obstruction.

Inspect the cylinder head about their warpage using a ruler of precision and feeler gauge between the bolt holes in the cylinder head.



Service limit: 0,10mm Valve springs Inspect the valve springs for their fatigue or possible damage (folding).

Measure the free length of the two springs (internal and external), if any presents a length less than the service limit should be replaced.

Service limit: Internal 37,8mm External 43,9mm

Valves and valves guides Make sure that both valves are in perfect condition and not show any defect, either twist, either abnormal wear on the stem or the hat in the contact zone with the seats in the cylinder head. If any valve shows any wear or abnormal defect should be replaced.

In the case of the valve guides should be checked regarding its wear and warping, by passing the respective valve by the valve guide and checking if there is any prison in the route.

O.D. of the valve stem Service limit: IN - 5,42mm EX - 5,40mm

VALVE SEAT RECTIFICATION If necessary, the valve may be rectified or polished by hand using a suitable suction and suitable grinding paste, following normal procedures for performing these delicate operations so as to obtain a perfect seal of each valve in the cylinder head.



Note: After rectifying the valves, always clean up the cylinder head and valves, ensuring that completely eliminates all and any residual abrasive slurry in order to avoid serious engine damage.

This should be the aspect of the valves after being rectified.

Carry out measurement to check if the contact is within specified range limits.


VALVES INSTALLATION Place the two existing rings at the base of each valve, then mount new seals at the end of the valve guides.

Lubricate the seals the hole of the guides and the stem of the valves to facilitate proper installation.

Place the valves springs, with the side on which the coils are closer together facing downward, together with the retention caps.

Use the "valve springs compressor clamp" tool to compress each spring just enough until you can assemble the clips on the retention caps on each valve stem.

Note: When using the compressor clamp to compress the valve springs, push only what is necessary to allow assembly of the retaining clips to avoid damaging the valve springs.

At the end give some knocks with the plastic hammer at the end of each valve to make sure the clips are firmly and do not jump off.



TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION Tie a string on the chain to aid in assembly and introduce it by the camshaft hole in the cylinder head.

Install the timing chain on the crankshaft gear, and keep it in tension with the string tied in the engine crankcase hole.

Note: Tie a string to the chain to keep it in tension and prevent it from falling into the engine or jump off the sprocket on the crankshaft, as older engines may not have installed the protection plate.

Fit the protection of timing chain, ensuring that it is properly positioned so that never touch the timing chain, but at the same time preventing the chain to loosen the pinion if it becomes loose or if the timing gear is removed outside of the camshaft.

Tightening torque: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Note: When installing a new chain protection, you may need to adjust your profile, by folding

the tab on the edge of the plate with pliers until the correct position with the timing chain, according the engine either 125 or 200/240cc, since the protection plates may not all have the same format suitable. Note: The engines 125 / 150cc, the edge of the protective plate must be aligned with the center of the timing chain links, but never touch the chain.

In engines 200 / 240cc, the cover plate after tightening in the crankcase, must be assembled with the flap end from outside, between the chain and the distribution pinion, so that the base of the "elbow" is almost leaning the chain, and act as protection to prevent the timing chain jump off the sprocket on the crankshaft if the rack is disassembled on the camshaft. Place distance washer on the crankshaft and install the flywheel with the starter gear.

Install the gear / freewheel starter on the flywheel.



Assemble the flywheel on the crankshaft and tighten to the specified torque to the respective screw whether it M8 or M10.

Assemble the double gear reduction starter with the respective washers.

Then put the guide bearings and gasket and lock the cover with the stator on the crankcase.

Install the screws in the correct position, taking into account their different lengths.

Tightening torques:

Screws of the left crankcase: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Screw of the flywheel (M8): 26N.m (2,7kgf.m) Screw of the flywheel (M10): 39N.m (4,0kgf.m) Stator screws: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Pulse generator bolts: 5N.m (0,5Kgf.m)

CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION Assemble the two guide bushings (10x20) and install the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder, in the case of motor 125 / 150cc there are three guide bushings.

Note: In the engines 125 / 150cc not forget to mount an O-ring (10x1,6) on the bushing guide to seal the oil passage hole in the cylinder pin / head back right cylinder.

Before proceeding with the installation of the cylinder head to the engine, it is important to check the correct tightening of the four cylinder bolts in crankcases, using two nuts M8 (nut and counter nut). The correct tightening should be 29N.m (3,0Kgf.m).



Assemble the tensioner guide of the timing chain in the cylinder head and secure it with the respective pivot bolt with aluminum sealing ring, tightening with the specific torque.

Install the cylinder head (complete with valves) on the cylinder, while maintaining tight the timing chain not to jump outside of the correct position on the crankshaft.

For engines 200 / 240cc, introduce the rubber sealing ring on the left front cylinder pin, fitting

it into the countersink existing on the surface of the cylinder head assembling it over the metal flange washer.

Observations: Only the motors 200 and 240cc require seal on the left front cylinder bolt, to prevent water or mud pass through the front opening existing in the cylinder head into the stud hole in the cylinder and cylinder head. There are three different types of sealing ring applied to the sealing bolt in engines of PR3 / PR4 bikes:

1) In older engines 200cc (PR4-2005 / 2007) with cylinder rods of Ø 6.5 mm, the seal was made with a rubber bushing with tab in the middle, wherein one end fitted on the pin hole at the cylinder and other on the cylinder head.

2) In 200cc engines that equipped the first PR3 (2007/2009), the seal was only a rubber washer (rectangular seal 14,3x6,5x2,5mm) that was lodged in countersink existing on the surface of the cylinder head.

3) In the engines 200 and 240 cc most recent (with reinforced cylinder bolts with a diameter of 8.5mm) fitted the PR3 / PR4-200 / 240 (2011-2013) there was an improvement in the form of sealing this stud cylinder and it is currently used a new rubber sealing ring with an inner lip and complemented with a special mounting plate washer with tab on the sealing ring both being housed at the countersink existing in the cylinder head.

Except few units, almost all of PR3 / PR4-240cc engines (2013) are equipped with the same cylinder head of the 200cc engines with combustion chamber recessed / flat and valves with a diameter smaller than the 240cc.



CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION Place the piston at top dead center. In this position, the two marks of the letters "F" and "T" existing in the magnetic wheel are aligned with the two projecting shaped marks "V" existing inside the left crankcase.

In the contact surface of the cylinder head with the cylinder head cover there is a hole (at the end of the lubricating channel) that should be covered with a suitable rubber pin, in order to avoid oil leakage and also to maintain the correct pressure in the lubrication circuit in the cylinder head.

Lubricate the bearings and put the camshaft in the cylinder head with two eccentric lobes facing down.

Notes: When installing on the camshaft take into account the correct position of the bushing support on the right side, which has to be assembled with the facing side hole into the side of intake, aligned with the existing slot lubrication channel in the cylinder head. If the bushing of the 200 / 240cc engines camshaft is not in the correct position, the circuit of lubrication will be blocked and will cause very serious damage to the cylinder head.



The 240cc engines (2013 - ...) are already equipped with support bearings on the camshaft with a double hole, so that their installation no longer requires careful mentioned above, since the hole is always aligned with the lubrication channel in cylinder head.

Removing the wire or cord which helped in assembling the timing chain, to assemble then the camshaft gear.

Install the chain in the timing gear, making sure that the two lines (reference marks) are aligned parallel to the surface of the cylinder head and fit the gear in the shoulder of the camshaft.

Note: in the timing gear of engines 125 / 150cc the only existing reference mark to align the engine is an "O", which should be placed at the top side, aligned with another reference mark wedge-shaped 'V' existing outside the cylinder head.

Fix the timing gear on the camshaft with the two hexagonal screws (M6x10 at the 125cc engine or M6x12 for the engine 200 / 240cc) and tighten with the specific torque.

Tightening torque: 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m) Ensure that the engine timing is drived in the correct position.

CYLINDER HEAD COVER INSTALLATION Provisionally screwing the adjusters with their nuts on the valves rocker arms. Attach the two valves rocker arms and to introduce the shafts of the rocker arms in their respective holes in the cylinder head cover.

Note: In 125 and 150cc engines the shaft of the inlet valve rocker arm is equal to the shaft



of the exhaust valve rocker arm, therefore they can be mounted in either place. For 200 and 240cc engines, the shafts of the rocker arms of the valves are not equal, so it should be taken into account the differences between each one in order to install each shaft in the correct place.

Align the existing countersink at the end of shafts of rocker arms of the valves and fit the retaining plate, tightening it with the respective flat head screw (star) M6x20.

Tightening torque: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Uniformly apply a light liquid gasket film (preferably gray silicone RTV) at the contact surface of the cylinder head cover.

! WARNING !

Do not apply excess silicone to prevent clogging the channel or lubrication holes in the cylinder head cover, camshaft or the rocker arms shafts of the valves.

Lubricate the shafts and the valve rocker arms.

Put the two guide bushings (8x14) and place the cover on the cylinder head, making sure that the bushing supporting on the camshaft has not left the position.

Enter the copper washers and the four blind nuts on the cylinder bolts / cylinder head, the four screws on the cylinder head cover.

Then tighten the remaining four flange bolts in the cylinder head cover. The tightening of the nuts and cylinder head bolts must be done in "X.

Tightening torques: Nuts of the pins in the cylinder head: 39N.m (4,0kgf.m) Flange screws M6: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) Insert the screw of the timing chamber with washer plate 6mm hole in the cylinder head.



Tightening torque: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) There must be made a final check of the engine timing by checking the points in the stator wheel and the marks on the gear on the camshaft.

Place the tensioner of the timing chain with the respective locking lever and tighten the screws to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 12N.m (1,2kgf.m) After being tightened must be removed the chain tensioner locking lever, releasing it against the chain tensioner guide and then may be tight the top screw tightening with the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 5N.m (0,5kgf.m) Note: When the cylinder head cover is removed and again after being installed should be tuned by adjusting the valves to the values specified in Chapter 3 - Maintenance, page 3-13.

Finally it should be re-installed the starter, putting the support bushings and tightening the two M6x22 bolts to the specific torque.

Install spark plug.

Install intake manifold.

Install engine’s rear bracket.

So the engine is ready to be reinstalled on motorcycle (page 6-6).

Chapter 8 – Cylinder and Piston


SERVICE INFORMATION GENERAL This section covers the removal and installation of the cylinder and piston with the engine removed out of the frame.

Gaskets and sealing segments used to prevent oil leakage and ensure the correct operation of the engine should always be replaced.

! WARNING !

Working in a location with adequate ventilation. Smoke or allow flames or sparks in the workplace or where gasoline is stored can cause a fire or explosion.

Be careful, to perform all these operations to avoid damaging the contact faces (the upper and lower faces of the cylinder) and the cylinder wall and the piston. Also be careful when removing components to not apply too much strength on them.

All mentioned components after being removed should be cleaned and dried for later inspection.

Since the lubrication of the camshaft and the rocker arms is made from the oil pump through internal passages from the base of the crankcase by the cylinder to reach the cylinder head, these conduits and internal holes must be thoroughly clean and unobstructed before making the cylinder assembly.

SERVICE INFORMATION 8 – 1 INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS 8 – 5

TROUBLESHOOTING 8 – 2 CYLINDER AND PISTON INSTALLATION 8 – 8

SPECIFICATIONS 8 – 3 ASSEMBLY SCHEME 8 – 12

CYLINDER AND PISTON REMOVAL 8 – 4



TROUBLESHOOTING

Low compression, difficulty in starting or inappropriate performance at low revs:

Piston rings worn, broken or seized; Cylinder and / or piston worn or damaged. Valves

o Wrong valve clearance o Burnt or warped valves o Wrong valve timing o Valve spring broken o Irregular valve seat o Warped vale in open position

Cylinder head o Leakage in the cylinder head gasket o Nut of cylinder / cylinder head studs

incorrectly tight o Warped contact surface o Incorrect tight of spark plug

Very high compression, overheating or pre-detonation:

Excess carbon deposits on the piston head or on the combustion chamber;

Rectified cylinder head or changed combustion chamber profile

Smoke excess from the exhaust:

Valve seals are damaged; Improper installation of piston rings; Piston or cylinder rings worn or seized; Damaged valve stem sealing.

Abnormal noise:

Wrong valve clearance Excessive rocker arms or rocker arm shaft

wear Worn camshaft or worn camshaft bearings

or bushings Piston pin seized or the hole of the piston

pin is wear out Piston rod seized Worn timing chain Worn camshaft timing gear Worn valve stem end contact with rocker

arm Worn valve or broken valve spring Worn valve seat Cylinder, piston and piston rings worn /

seized.

Smoke out the breathing tube in the engine crankcase:

Piston / segments or cylinder wall damaged.



SPECIFICATIONS Unit: mm


Cylinder

Inner diameter 125 56,50 – 56,51 56,60

200/240 69,00 – 69,01 69,10

Inclination 15º –

Roundness – 0,05

Warpage – 0,05

Cylinder height (between the lower and upper surface)

125 68,0 -

150 68,5 -

200 70,2 -

240 77,2 -

Cylinder gasket thickness 0,50 -

Piston and segments

Direction of the piston mark Mark "IN" turn for admission –

Outer diameter of the piston 125 56,470 – 56,490 56,40

150 (kit) 60,970 – 60,990 60,80

200/240 68,970 – 68,990 68,80

Clearance between cylinder / piston 0,010 – 0,040 0,20

I.D. of the piston pin hole 125 15,002 – 15,008 15,04

200/240 17,002 – 17,008 17,04

O.D. of the piston pin 125 14,994 – 15,000 14,96

200/240 17,994 – 17,000 17,96

Hole clearance between piston / pin 0,002 – 0,014 0,02

Hole clearance between connecting rod / pin 0,010 – 0,034 0,10

Thickness of piston rings 125/150 1,0 -

200 1,0 - 240

1,2

-

Clearance of the rings in the piston slot

Top 0,025 – 0,060 0,09

Secondary 0,015 – 0,050 0,08

Clearance on the edge of the rings Top 0,20 – 0,35 0,5

Secondary 0,35 – 0,50 0,65

Oil (rail side) 0,20 – 0,70 0,9

Assembly position of the rings on the piston

Grey (DY) On top - Black (D) Below -

Oil Facing the exhaust -

Offset between the ends of the cylinder rings 120º -



CYLINDER AND PISTON REMOVAL

The following procedures must be performed with cold engine.

Note: It is necessary to remove the engine out of the frame to remove the cylinder and piston, particularly in the case of 240cm3 engine.

Cylinder removal Remove the engine (see Chapter 6);

Remove the cylinder head (see Chapter 7);

Remove the cylinder head gasket with the two (or three in the case of some engines) guide bushings of the cylinder head and the timing chain guide.

Remove the timing chain guide.

Remove the cylinder;

Note: In some engines 200 and 240, it may be necessary to repeatedly move the cylinder up and down to remove of the cylinder if the left front stud hole is very soiling. If you need to hit the cylinder to detach it of the crankcase use a rubber or plastic hammer with careful not to break the fins.

Remove the bottom cylinder gasket. If it is glued, can be removed with a chisel but very gently, to avoid scratch the contact surface.

Remove the two cylinder guide bushings on the base of the crankcases and the seal gasket.

Piston removal Note: A plastic / protection should be placed beneath the piston to prevent the piston pin circlip from fall inside engine crankcases during removal and installation.

Using a pointy tips pliers remove the circlip from the piston pin;



Then push the piston pin out of it and out of the rod too, taking out the piston.

Finally should be removed the piston rings, by opening the ends to get out of the piston.

Note: Be careful to not open the rings too much in order to not damage them.

Each ring must be marked to be installed again in the right position, because used rings may not have visible the marks on the surface that must be faced upward.

Remove the gasket which can be glued to the cylinder. If necessary, a chisel can be used to remove the seal but with care not to damage the contact surface of the cylinder.

INSPECTION OF COMPONENTS Cylinder Check for possible wear or vertical scratches on the cylinder wall, if it occurs, the cylinder must be replaced along with the piston and the rings.



Note: If the cylinder is rectified to assemble a larger piston, make sure that the clearance between the cylinder and the new piston is within the specified limits, to ensure the correct operation of the engine. Reduced clearance may cause overheating of the engine and seize (merge) the piston in the cylinder. Excessive clearance may result in excessive premature wear and loss of engine power due to the low compression in the cylinder.

With the help of a straight edge and feeler gauge measure the warpage in the cylinder surface.

Cylinder warpage limit: 0,05mm

With the help of an internal micrometer measure the bore at three different points: at the top, the center and the base of the piston stroke. Measure horizontally and vertically (X and Y axis) at 90º.

Service limit 125cm3 56,60mm

200/240cm3 69,10mm

Roundness 0,05mm

Piston / Rings With the help of a micrometer measure the outer diameter of the piston skirt, as shown in the picture.

Place the micrometer at the height indicated in the dimension "a" around 6 mm from the base of the piston (ideal reference to inner edge). The clearance between the cylinder and the piston is calculated as follows: Cylinder bore subtracting the external diameter of the piston. Always use the highest measurement found in the three measured positions earlier in cylinder measurement.

Service limit

125cm3 56,40mm 150cm3 60,80mm

200/240cm3 68,80mm Clearance between

cylinder / piston 0,2mm

If the service limit of the piston diameter is exceeded it must be replaced along with the rings and can use the same cylinder if it undamaged and its diameter is within the limit.

In the case of the cylinder is damaged or its diameter is no longer in service limit, cylinder, piston and rings must be replaced all together.



However, it is recommended that the cylinder always be replaced together with the piston, rings and piston pin with circlips

Then measure the outer diameter of the piston pin. Also check their appearance if is scratched or bluish. If so, replace the piston and the pin, and check the lubrication system.


200/240cm3 17,96mm

Measure also the internal diameter of the cavity of piston pin in the piston housing, using the maximum value found for comparison with the specified service limit. If exceeded this limit, the piston must be replaced along with the respective pin.


200/240cm3 17,04mm

Finally, in this control, calculation of the clearance between the pin and the respective pin housing in piston cavity must be made, confirming also in this case if the clearance respect the specified service limit. Service limit of the clearance between cavity / piston pin: 0,02mm

Then inspect the piston rings on the smoothness of movement. If they are obstructed they should be cleaned.

Subsequently, with the help of a feeler gauge, measure the clearance of the ringsin their cavities in the piston housing.

Note: Eliminate any type of coal in the ring cavities to avoid any incorrect measures.

Service limit

Top segment 0,09mm Secondary segment 0,08mm

Install piston rings, each one at a time, inside cylinder using the piston head to place rings leveled.

Measure the clearance in the rings ends with the help of a blade gauge as shown in following picture.

If clearance is out of specified limits, rings

Service limit

Top segment 0,5mm

Secondary segment 0,65mm

Oil segment (rail side) 0,9mm

Connecting rod Note: Whenever it is verified that the service limit of the piston pin or pin housing cavity in



the piston has been exceeded, it must be inspected the inner diameter of the head of the connecting rod which encompass the piston pin.

With regard to the inspection of the connecting rod, more specifically its head, which will also enter the pin of the piston shall be checked if the hole have signs of wear / seized or bluish.

Measure the inner diameter and then calculate the clearance between this diameter and the outer diameter of piston pin.

This clearance should not exceed the value of the service limit. If it exceeds, it must be replaced together with the pin of the piston and the piston.

Use limit of clearance between O.D. connecting rod head and O.D. piston pin: 0,10mm

CYLINDER AND PISTON INSTALLATION

If necessary, use a chisel to remove any residue of the old gasket between the two crankcases and completely clean the contact surface, always being careful not to damage.

Apply a bit of silicone on the area of the gasket in the middle of the crankcases to ensure proper sealing.



Blow with compressed air in the oil passage hole in the base of the right crankcase to ensure that it is unobstructed.

Install the two guide bushings (10x16) on the timing chain side studs and put the new cylinder gasket at the base of the crankcases.

Ensure that the oil passage hole for the cylinder head lubrication near the back right pin is not obstructed.

Piston Piston rings Must be installed carefully all rings in their respective cavities in the piston, always keeping their marks facing up.

Rings must be assembled on the piston in the correct position: Oil segments (with expander) below; compression ring (black) in the middle; fire segment (chrome plated) on top.

Notes:

When placing the rings must be careful not to damage them or damage the piston;

Do not reverse the marks in the first two segments;

When installing the oil segment, must be installed first the spacer ring and only after the two side rings.

Tips of the rings must be with 120° discrepancy between each one

Piston assembly Place a plastic / protection beneath the piston to prevent the piston pin circlip to fall inside the engine crankcases.

Lubricate the hole in the head of the connecting rod and the pin of the piston.

Lubricate the pin and insert it into the piston hole.



Piston must be aligned with the head of the connecting rod, taking into account that the mark “IN” is facing the intake side. Piston pin may be lightly greased and then introduced into the piston through the piston head and piston rod.

Then should be introduced the respective circlip in its cavity in the piston, preventing the piston pin go out of his place.

After piston pin installation check that each circlip is perfectly placed in piston housing and with the circlip ends away from the cut.

Note: The tips of this circlip should be away from the existing cut in the piston to ease removal and should be checked that the circlip placement was well done without pin prisons.

Remove protection plastic and adjust piston rings to its correct position.

Piston ring ends must be with a 120º mismatch between them. In the case of oil rings, the ends can face exhaust, away 40 mm.

CYLINDER INSTALLATION Note: Be careful when placing the piston in the cylinder to avoid damaging the segments or the cylinder walls.

If the timing chain is installed on the crankshaft gear, when installing the cylinder, it must be passed by the timing chamber hole and held in tension with a string or wire tied, preventing it from falling into the crankcase or jump out of gear on the crankshaft.

Apply engine oil on the cylinder walls and the outer surfaces of the piston and segments to ease installation.

The cylinder must be assembled on the piston while at the same time manually compressing each segment carefully to avoid damaging



them until the complete introduction and the cylinder mating on the engine crankcase base.

Rotate crankshaft to move piston inside cylinder and clean the excess of oil inside cylinder, while keeping the timing chain in tension, if already in place.

Install timing chain guide, making sure that is properly seated in the housing cavity in the crankcase.

Install the cylinder head gasket with the two (or three, for some engines) guide bushings of the cylinder head and the other timing chain guide.

In the case of 125/150 engines, an O-ring 10x1,6 must be placed to the oil pass at the guide bushing of right rear stud at the cylinder.

Install timing chain guide, certifying that it is perfectly fitted in the crankcase housing.

Install bushing guides and cylinder head gasket over the cylinder.

Note: 125/150 engines use three guide bushings and an O-ring 10x1,6 at the right rear stud at the cylinder.

Proceed with the cylinder head installation, Chapter 7.

Proceed with the engine installation, Chapter 6.



ASSEMBLY SCHEME

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