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IIP-CTU. A, M. GRAHAM

b/fe' ?23 FEB 1965

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HAND BOOK

INDIA AND EGYPT, COMPRISING

THE NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY FROM

CALCUTTA TO ENGLAND,

BY WAY OF

THE RIVEK GANGES, THE NORTH WEST OF HINDOSTAN, THE HIMALAYAS, THE RIVERS SUTLEDGE AND

INDUS, BOMBAY AND EQYPT;

HINTS FOK THE GUIDANCE OF PASSENGERS BY THAT AND

OTHEB OVERLAND BOUTES TO THE

THREE PRESIDENCIES

INDIA.

LONDON:

WM. H. ALLEN & Co., 7, LEADENHALL STREET.

1841.

S W.H. 'VAj^, U»>«» M?U.M ( C %.~JL^ Q~JV«x H

P224I*

•c Jfli

I?

LONDON :

E. VARTY, PRINTER, 87, CAMOMILE STREET, BISHOPSGATE.

DEDICATION.

To MRS.

M Y DEAR FRIEND,

T H E existence of this Work is owing to

your suggestion that I should take notes during m y jour­

ney to and from India; and to no one can I therefore

more consistently dedicate it than to yourself—though, at

the same time, I could wish it were worthy of the honor

I thus take the liberty of conferring upon it. Whatever

may be its fate, m y best thanks are, at all events, due to

you, inasmuch as the occupation has caused m e to pass

many hours agreeably, which would otherwise have hung

most heavily on m y hands, especially during m y long and

solitary voyage on the Sutledge and Indus rivers. With

all regard and esteem,

Believe m e very faithfully yours,

THE AUTHOR.

London, 20th June, 1841.

ADVERTISEMENT.

T H E Author of this little work is at a loss for a better

title for it than that of " Hand Book," since it does not

claim to rank with books of travels, but is intended as a

companion to those who pass along the same route, and

who will have the benefit of the Author's experience.

Being no votary of the dolce-far-niente, and disliking the

change from an active mercantile life to that of an idle

tourist, he adopted the sensible suggestion of a friend,

and noted his observations upon the scenes he passed,

and his impressions during the journey, in which, besides

finding a complete resource against ennui, he collected

some volumes of notes. From these records he has ex­

tracted the contents of the following pages, in the hope

that they may be useful to future travellers. H e was

further impelled to make them public by recollecting that

he was the first party to take the route from Calcutta

to England therein described, and by considering that he

has practically shown how much may be seen in little

VI ADVERTISEMENT.

more than four months,—that is, in less time than the dull

voyage by sea frequently occupies. H e has found that,

in this short period, the most interesting part of India,

including the three Presidencies, may be visited; the

wonders of Agra and Delhi surveyed; a month passed

among the sublime scenery of the Himalayas; hundreds

of miles of the celebrated rivers Ganges, Jumna, Sut-

ledge, Indus, and Nile may be traversed, and a passing

glance at Egypt obtained. H e would likewise hope that

the few hints he has appended to the details of his

journey may be found serviceable to all proceeding to

the far east, wherever may be their ultimate destination.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

R1VEB TRAVELLING IN INDIA.

Page

Pinnaces, budgerows, bholeos and dingheys—Supplies for a river

voyage—Mode of proceeding against the current—Time allowed to

military men for Teaching the various stations on the river—Amuse­

ments within reach during the progress—Advice as to cook-boats, &c.

—Recent introduction of steamers—Astonishment of the natives there­

at—Necessity for others besides those of the government—Captain

Johnston's general superintendence—Manner of disposing of the ton­

nage and sums generally realized—Advantages derived by Government

—Agents at the various stations—Descriptions of the tug and the flat

— H o w manned—Pay of the commander, &c.—Coal depots—'Stations

for delivering packages—Duration of stoppages—Cost of the vessels—

Quantity of cargo carried—Change in their names by order of the

Court of Directors—Regulations with regard to engaging a passage—

Number, expense, and measurement of the different classes of cabins—

Extent of Baggage allowed—Hours of refection on board—Tariff of

charges—Rules as to servants—The pilotage system—Passage money

not returned in case of accidents—Rapidity of the downward passage 1

Vlii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II.

CALCUTTA TO ALLAHABAD.

Page

The form of a journal deemed the most advisable for detailing a

voyage by steam-boat, thereby enabling other parties to judge of their

own progress by comparison with the table of distances in the Appen-

^ k ^ ' W . dix — Depai'ture.from Calcutta— Cossipore—Duckinsore—Mrs. Wil­

son's Orphan Refuge—Park, House, and Cantonments of Barrackpore—

Cox's bungalow and the journey by land—Serampore—Mr. Mack.—

Mr. Marshman —• Ishapore —Chandernagore—Chinsurah—Hooghly—

Bandel—Extent of British territory—Junction of the Matabangha and

the Hooghly rivers—River scenes, mosques, temples, ghauts, bodies

of the dead and dying, and floating carcasses—Santipore—Kulna—

Nuddeah—Junction of the Jellinghee with the Bhauguretty river—Bur-

gatchea—Dum Duma—Steamer a-ground—Augurdeep—Scenery im­

proving—Dewangunge—Kutwa—The-River Adjaee-—Plains of Plassey

and the associations they give rise to'—Komeerpore—Rungamuttee—

Berhampore-—Its insalubrity and the general dislike entertained for

it—Its cantonments, population and commerce—Cossimbazar and the

former importance of its silk factory—Moorshedabad-—The Nawaub,

Cowar Krishnath R o y — T h e palace built by Colonel M'Leod—The

Lall Bhaug—The Nawaub's boats—Jungypore—Flooded country—

Sootee—Entrance to the Ganges—River travelling at different seasons—

Journey via the Sunderbunds—Strength of the current—The Dhangars

or Hill Coolies—Inundated villages—Tenacity of the natives to their

homes—Changes in the face of the country caused by floods—Extent

of the Nullahs—Rajmahal—Rtiins of the palace—The bills—Mootee

Juma waterfall—Sickreegullee—Teryagullee hills—Buffaloes—Peer-

pointee—Koosee River—Puttur Ghatta and its fabulous caves—Col-

gong rocks—Interesting scenery—Bhaugulpore—Breadth of the Ganges

— T h e ancient Palibothra—Monument to Mr. Cleveland—Mandar Hill

—Jungheera—TheFaqueer's Rock—Fall of the river—Sooltangunge—

Kurruckpore Hills—Monghyr—Its manufactures—Invalid soldiery—

Springs of Seetacoond—Russulpore—Soorajgurra—Deriapore—Loss of

opium boats—Bar—The mendicants of Behar—An alarmed seraglio—

Phoolbarrea—Futwa—River Pompon—Patna—The Granary—Extent

C O N T E N T S . ix

Page

of occasional mortality—Bankipore—Hadjeepore—Moravian mission­

aries—Deegah and Mr. Havell's farm—Dinapore, its cantonments, its

manufactures—The river Sone—The ruins at Moneah—Chuprah—Its

picturesque situation—Revelgunge—Gograh River—Description of

country boats—Alligators—River Thugs—Boujpore—Bhulea—Surgoo

river—Buxar—Kurruntadee—Their stables—Chounsah— Kurumnasa

River—Beerpore—The babul, or acacia and tamarind trees—Mahmood-

abad — Ghospore — Ghazepore—Cossim Ali Khan's Palace — Rose-

water—The late Chevalier De l'Etang—New opium warehouse—Tomb

of the Marquess Cornwallis—Zimaneah—Sanowlee—Chochuckpore—

Its monkeys—Tombs of unfortunate Europeans—Goomtee river—

Benares—Aurungzebe's Mohammedan mosque—Profits of the Brah-

. rains—The Rajah of Nagpore—Exploits of snake-charmers—Canton­

ments of Secrole—Benares from the river—Magnificent Ghaut—Rajah

of Benares—Palace of Ramnugur—Sultanpore—Chunar—Bindee hills—

Hadjee Khan Kakur—Major Outram—Dost Mahommed—Budowlee—

Piety of Lascars—MirzapoTe—Gopalpore—Activity of Lascars—Dega

—Lutcheeaghurree—Sirsah—Dum Duma—Junction of the Ganges and

Jumna—Allahabad • 13

CHAPTER III.

DAWK TRAVELLING IN INDIA.

Military marching—Slow rate of travelling by dawk—Manner of ap­

plying for bearers and post-office regulations—Gratuities to men—The

Mussauljees and their torches-—The fatigue experienced in the first

instance—Necessity for bearers being well drilled—Care requisite in

the choice of a palankeen—Annoyances experienced in the event of its

breaking—Articles to accompany the traveller—Stoppages on the road

—Letters of introduction—Mofussil hospitality ; ex. gr. that of Mr.

G. R. Clerk—Dawk bungalows and the rules in force thereat—Hints

regarding petarrahs and banghies—Precautions to exclude snakes

from the palankeen—Private dawks—Reduced charges by them—Ge­

neral rules—Manner of conveying the letter post in India . . . . 63

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

ALLAHABAD TO AGRA.

Page

Sanctity of Allahabad—Its population and commerce—The fort—

The armoury—Ancient pillar—The late Mr. James Prinsep—Subter­

ranean temple and labyrinth—Cantonments—Sudder station—Village

of Papamow—Description of the grand military road from Calcutta to

Loodianna—Damage caused by the rains—Miserable appearances of

villages—Futtehpore—The late Mr. Douglas Timins—Cawnpore—Ex­

tent of the station—Cantonments generally—Nawaub-gunge—Society

and gaieties—"Cawnpore Devil" — Stages between Cawnpore and

Mynpoorie—Temple of Buckawtee—Ruins at Kanoge—Tombs and

Mosques—English Scribblers—The Kala Nuddee—Jelallabad—Shaje-

-hanpore—Tope of monkeys—Mynpoorie—The gallant 31st regiment—

Stages between Mynpoorie and Agra—Shekoabad—Ferozabad—Ori­

ental scene near Mahomedabad—Begum ka Serai—Distant view of the

Taj—Ferry-boat across the Jumna—Inhabitants of the Upper Pro­

vinces contrasted with those of Bengal—Great variety of birds—Situ­

ation of Agra—The chowk—The cantonments—Evening drive and

cemetery—Metcalfe testimonial—Jumma Musjeed—The Taj Mahal—

Difficulty of describing it—The Emperor Shah Jehan—Cost, &c. of

the Taj—Major Terraneau—View from the minarets—The fort and

palace, their desolate condition—The Mootee Musjeed—Gardens of

Ram Baugh—Tomb of Ekbar-ood-Dowlah—Its ruined state—Nour-

mahal " the Light of the Harem"—Ride to Secundra—Tomb of the

Emperor Akbar—Infant Orphan Asylum—Speculations as to its re­

sult—Futtehpore Sikri—Bhurtpore 74

CHAPTER V.

AGRA TO THE FOOT OF THE HIMALAYAS.

Departure from Agra—Hattrass—Its turbulent population—Coel—

AUyghur—The fort—Mr. Neave—House of Monsieur Perron—Distant

C O N T E N T S . xi

Page

view of Delhi—River Hindon—Entrance tp the city—Situation of

eantonments—Mr. Metcalfe's house and park—The late Mr. William

Fraser and his murderer—Nadir Shah and the peacock throne—Mo­

dern Delhi and its seven gates—St. James's Church—Colonel Skinner—

His house and mosque—Cemeteries — Chowk—Jumma Musjeed—

Palace—" The Elysium"—Jey Singh's observatory—The Feroze Lat

—Presentation to the Emperor—Magnificent ruins of Ancient Delhi—

Tombs of Humayoon and Zufder Jung—Toglukabad—Cootub Minar—

Antiquities at its base—Exploits of divers—Shawls, scarfs, jewellery,

and medallions—Agra and Delhi newspapers—The Madrissa-—The

beggars of Delhi—Mode of disposing of property—The Maharajah

Hindu Rao—Route from Delhi to Kurnaul—Panneeput and the bloody

contests it has witnessed—Kurnaul—Its cantonments—View of the

distant Himalayas—Termination of the British Territory—Searogurh,

Azumabad and the other stations to Umballa—Mr. G. R. Clerk—Um-

balla to Bahr—Alteration in the mode of travelling—Pinjore Hills—

Lively scene at Bahr—Proposed hotel there 104

CHAPTER VI.

SIMLA AND THE HIMALAYAS GENERALLY.

Manner of travelling from the plains—Jaumpauns and jaumpau-

nies—Routes by Soobathoo, &c.—Scenery at the commencement of the

ascent—Kuds, kaits, and kilters—Chameeah, or Fir-tree bungalow—

Extensive view therefrom—Kussowlee and Mussoorie—Relative ad­

vantages possessed by those stations—River Gumbeer—Soobathoo—

Hurreepore—Syree—Scenes on the route—Simla, great and small—

Lord Combermere—Society, &c, at the Cheltenham of the East—

Bishop of Calcutta—Magnetic observatory—Capt. Boileau—Fire in­

surance company—Capt. Cox—Schools—Dr. Laughton—Annadale—

Waterfalls—Race-course—Barrett's rooms—Simla houses—Mountain

Jacco—Church—Lady William Bentinck—C emetery—Climate—Neigh­

bouring mountains—Somnolent effect of water—Puharries—Polyandry

—Infanticide—Religion and temples of the mountaineers—Cottages

—Cattle—Grapes—Excursion to Nagkanda—Different modes of per­

forming it—Station bungalows—Forest of Mahassoo—Fagoo—Theog

xii C O N T E N T S . Page

—The Girree river—Mutteana—The Richah—Altenah—Nagkanda—

Ride to, and ascent of, the mountain Huttoo—Magnificent view there­

from— Shikarries—Kotghur—Rampore—Capt. Patrick Gerard . . .122

CHAPTER VII.

SIMLA TO FEROZEPORE. , ,,

U/»'; U W M {^~^ Alarming reports—State of the country—Descent to the plains—

Stages between Bahr and Loodianna— Mr. G. R. Clerk—Mornda—

Loodianna—Old bed of the Sutledge—Sir C. M. Wade's Garden-

Cantonments—Bazaar—Fickleness of fortune in the relative positions

of Shah Soojah ool Moolkh and Dost Mahommed Khan—Junction

of the Beas and Sutledge—stages between Loodianna and Ferozepore

—Ferozepore—Meeting of Lord Auckland and Runjeet Singh—Hon.

Capt. Osborne—Capt. Lawrence—Dust, &c. of Ferozepore—Its cli­

mate—Former lawless state—Anglo-Punjaubee Island—Immensely

tall grass—Tiger shooting—Black Partridge—Dilemma of an elephant

—Expenditure of camels—Instructions preparatory to the descent of

the Sutledge—Full details of the boats plying on the river 152

CHAPTER VIII.

THE RIVER SUTLEDGE.

Supplies necessary for the river voyage—Few marks of Interest—

Incorrectness of the maps—Sinuosities of the stream—Distances and

strength of current—Sand banks—Manners and customs of the boat­

men — Comparison between Panjaubee and Hindoostanee villages

—Native estimates of distance—Paucity of cultivation—Fall of banks

—Commerce—Alligators and waterfowl—Jungle and tamarisk shrubs

—Barren scenery—Mountains of Soliman—Ferry-boats—Extraor­

dinary manner of crossing the river—Junction with the Chenab—

Persian water-wheels—Thermometrical observations —Architectural

objects—Bhawulpore 16?

CONTENTS. xiii

C H A P T E R IX.

THE RIVER INDUS.

frf

Page Observations on the works of Sir Alex. Burnes and Lieut. W o o d —

Junction of the Sutledge with the Indus—Mithun Kote—Attempt to

arrest the Traveller's boat—Scenery of the Indus—Distances and

strength of current—Course of the stream—Ravages made by the

river—Boats of Lower Sinde—Miscellaneous observations—Approach

to Sukkur—Fortress of Bukkur—Dr. Don's 'description—Roostum

Khan, the Ameer of Khyrpore—Mr. Ross Bell—Weak state of the

battlements of the fort—Islands contiguous to Bukkur—Cantonments

of Sukkur—Ruined tombs—Climate—Inundations of the Indus—

Importance of Sukkur—Mode of securing treasure—Date trees—

Capt.Carless' drawings of the frontispiece to this work—Instruc­

tions as to boat and supplies from Sukkur to the sea—Neighbouring

scenery—Lake Munchar—Nara river—Hala mountains-^Bolan Pass

—Lukkee hills—Sehwnn—Arrul river—Hyderabad'—Major Outram—

Bazaar, streets, &c. of the city—The Hindoo, Beloochee, and Negro

population—The fort—The Fulailee river—The Ameers and their

treasure—Mosques—Religious customs—Tombs of the Talpoors and •

Kaloras—Shikargahs or hunting forests—Ameers' mode of sporting—

Prince Shahdad-Khan—Sindian mode of washing—Paucity of plea­

sure-boats—Rocks beyond Hyderabad—Jurruk—Tatta—Modes of

reaching Bombay from the mouth of the Indus—Kurachee—Unnee—

Gorabarree or Vikkur—Buggalows and their charges—Steam naviga- p. -.

tion on the Indus—Capt. Carless—Voyage of the Comet—Particulars

of the_steamers—General account of the Indus and Sinde, by Dr. Don

—Course of the river—Surrounding country—Canals, &c.—Soil—Pro­

duce—Vegetables—Jungle—Rise and fall of the river—Country be­

tween Sukkur and Shikarpore—Sinde canal—Water of the Indus—

Deposit, of silt—Climate—Its effects on the health—Squalls and

whirlwinds — Population — Sindees—Beloochees — Hindoos — Their

manners and customs 184

xiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

MOUTH OF THE INDUS TO BOMBAY.

• Page "^ *4™ %*WJ Indus Station vessel—The Bar—Captain Dawson—Mr. Morrison—

Hujaumree and Kedywarree Mouths—Villages and country between

them—Zoology—Wreck of the Hannah—Khelat Jewels—Beach—

Astonishment of Native boatmen at ebb and flow of tide—Cat-fish—

Buggalows or Pattimars—Description thereof—The crew—Their man­

ner of passing time—Their devotion—Mode of navigation—Embou­

chures of the Indus—Cape Juggut, or Dwaraca—Kattywar Hills—Poor

Bunder—Population, commerce, &c.—Mahadoo—Maungrole'—Puttun

Somnauth—Diu—Prong Rocks and the recent melancholy shipwrecks

><,Woo *M-b —Arrival at Bombay 226

"1.G ivft <*•* .,) » W -

CHAPTER XI.

BOMBAY TO SUEZ.

Dock-yard—Auckland—Sesostris—Parell and its many eminent oc­

cupants—Esplanade—Statue of Lord Cornwallis—Elphinstone College

—Town Hall, Library, Museum, Bazaars, Shops—Reference made to

Miss E. Roberts' work for details of the Western Presidency—Total

want of good hotels—The Victoria—Change required with regard to

Cadets—Caves of Elephanta—Bunder—Merchandize—Fort—Colabah

and Mazagon—Their houses and gardens—Language—Parsees—Rules

estaWished_fqr_the engagementof passages in the Company's armed

P i' " ' - steamers, with instructions to passengers, &c. &c.—Advice relative

thereto—Insufficiency of cabins—Arrival of the mails, and departure of

jjjj" ( JU-* |l?t the Cleopatra from Bombay—Paucity of passengers in consequence of

the unsettled state of Egypt—The ladies of the party—Captain Webb

—Kisseen point on the coast of Arabia—Cape Aden—Winds and wea-

^ 5 | ther during the voyage—Aden from the bay—Vessels of war in the

i harbour—Semiramis—Coal-hulk—Seedies from Zanzibar—Mortality f~ t?u& among them—Captain Haines and the Semiramis—Journey to the

16 V**" town — Narrow pass — Turkish wall—Fortifications—Garrison—In-

| crease of population—Sultan's palace—Bazaar—Miscellaneous obser-

CONTENTS. XV

Page

vations— Straits of Babelmandeb — Perim Island—The Brothers—

Mocha—Comparison as a port between it and Aden—Harnish Islands—

Jibbel Zoogur—Zebayer Islands—Jibbel Teer—Coasts of Arabia and

Abyssinia—Jiddah—Weather usually met with in the Red Sea—Ad-

visableness of passengers by sailing vessels debarking at Cosseir—St.

John's Island—Elba mountains—Coast of Nubia—Berenice and Eme­

rald mountains—Jibbel Waddy—The Brothers Rocks—Cap and Sugar

Loaf mountains on the Coast of Egypt—Ras Mahommed dividing Gulfs

of Suez and Akabah—Shadwan—Island and Straits of Jubal—Mounts

Agrib, Sinai, and Horeb—Valley of the encampment of the children of *•

Israel—Reflections thereupon—Anchor at Suez—Description of the

Jlleopatra and steamers of her class—Comparison between them and

others—Other details—Suez from the anchoring station 236

CHAPTER XII.

SUEZ TO ENGLAND.

Reports of Incursions of Bedouin Arabs in the desert—Thanks due

to Mehemet Ali from every English traveller—Escort granted by the

Pasha—Wretchedness of Suez—Waghorn's hotel and arrangements

preferable to Hill's —Saint's tomb outside Suez—Monuments to deceased

travellers—Unnecessary stoppage at Suez—Departure of the caravan—

Its motley appearance—Modes of traversing the desert—Exaggeration

of the danger—The various stations—-Want of accommodation, and bad

arrangements thereat;—Distances from Suez to Cairo—Scenery and

incidents of the route—Advice to travellers—Approach to Cairo—City

of tombs—Different views of the pyramids—The City of Cairo—Noble

donkeys—Citadel and Pasha's palace—Magnificent view from the ter­

race—Superb mosque—Joseph's well—Sultan Hassan's tomb—Female

slave market—Gardens of Shoubra—Bazaars—Money changers—Cur­

rency of Egypt—Boulac—Steamer Jack-o-Lantern—Description of her

—Peninsular Company's Steamer Lotus—Course of the Nile—Strength

of current—Scenery—Fouah—AtK—Remarks upon the passage by the

Nile—Mahmoudieh canal—Description of the boats and mode of navi-

X v i C O N T E N T S ,

Page

gation thereon—Telegraphic towers—Lake Mareotis—Arrival at Alex­

andria—Regulations with regard to shutting its gates—Suburban Cafe1

—Pompey's pillar—Instructions to travellers proceeding to England—

The great square—Ruins of Old Alexandria—Cleopatra's Needle—Filth

of the city—Embarkation on the Great Liverpool Steamer—Intricate

entrance to the harbour—Arrival at Malta—Quarantine—Valetta—

Queen Adelaide's church—Mail packet arrangements—View of Sicily

and Mount Etna — Gozo—Pantellaria—Zembra—Galeta—Algiers—

Sierra Nevada mountains—Gibraltar—Ceuta—Tangiers—Algesiras—

Tarifa—Cape Trafalgar—Cape St. Mary—Cape St. Vincent—Heavy

gale—Entrance of the river Tagus—Belem—Lisbon—Falmouth—Arri­

val at the quarantine station, Isle of Wight—The Great Liverpool—In­

ternal arrangements and comforts—Captain Engledue—Conclusion . . 25 7

CONTENTS. xvii

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX A.

DISTANCE TABLES.

No. 1. Page

Names of 184 places on the river between Calcutta and Cawnpore,

and their exact distances from them as well as from each other . . . 279

No. 2.

Distances from Calcutta to Cawnpore by the Sunderbunds . . . . 283

No. 3.

Distances from Calcutta to Loodianna by the new line of road . . 284

No. 4.

Distances from Calcutta to Loodianna by Bancoora, Hazareebaugh

Benares, Allahabad, Cawnpore, Mynpoorie, Allygurh, Delhi, and

Kurnaul . . . . , 287

No. 5.

Distances of all the military stations on the Bengal Presidency from

each other 290

b

xviii CONTENTS.

No. 6.

Page

Distances from Calcutta to every principal place in India . . . .313

No. 7.

Distances from Madras to every principal place in India . . , . 143

No. 8.

Distances from Bombay to every principal place in India . . . 316

APPENDIX B.

DETAILS OF EXPENSES OF THE AUTHOR'S JOURNEY FROM CALCUTTA

TO ENGLAND 317

APPENDIX C.

OTHER OVERLAND ROUTES AND GENERAL INFORMATION FOR

TRAVELLERS.

Calcutta or Madras, by sea, to Cosseir or Suez, without touching at

Bombay—Calcutta or Madras to Bombay by land—Agra to Bombay

—Delhi to Bombay—Differences between English and Arab ships—

Sea Voyage from Bombay to Madras and Calcutta—Route from Cossier

to Luxor across the desert—Mr. Hogg's description thereof—Mr. Car-

michael Smyth's route from Cosseir to Luxor—Hints to travellers by

Messrs. Smyth, Hogg, Blackburn, and Wight—Mr. Wight's description of

the journey down theNile to Cairo—Description of the route from Cairo

to Alexandria across the desert, as well as via Rosetta and the Delta by

land—Antiquities of Egypt from various authorities—Capt. Crawford's

CONTENTS. xix Page

notes of a journey up the Nile from Cairo—English and Arabic voca­

bulary—Hill & Co's Tariff of charges for conveyances across the desert

and by steam boats on the Nile—Regulations at the Malta Lazaretto and

expense of living there—Details of Malta, and advice to persons landing

and stopping thereat—The various routes from Paris to Marseilles, with

distances and costs of transit—RjigulatiQnSjJfce ofthe French Steamers

—Particulars of jthe Peninsular Company's Steamers—-Description of

the Steamer "Oriental" and of those on the Bombay side of Suez . . 320

APPENDIX D.

OUTFIT AND SEA VOYAGE TO INDIA.

Advice as to the choice of a Ship and Cabin—-Outfit—Articles usually

recommended which are deemed unnecessary, and requisite articles

which are frequently omitted to be taken—The fittings-up of a Cabin—

Advice regarding the Hindoostanee language and books generally—

Lessons in Navigation recommended—Ports of departure—Madeira—

Canaries—Cape de Verds—Table of Trade Winds—Crossing the line

—Trinidad—Martin Vas—Cape of Good Hope—Ceylon—Desultory

observations addressed to parties who are making their first sea-voyage

as to ships and navigation generally 394

APPENDIX E.

MADRAS.

Catamarans—Masulah Boats—Hotel Touters—Advice regarding

letters of introduction—Rules of the Madras Club—Grant's and the

Clarendon Hotel—Black-Town—Fort—Society—South Beach—Mount

Road—Manners, customs, &c.—Lord Elphinstone—Government-House

—Surf—Boats—Currency—Monuments—Passage from Madras to Cal­

cutta 427

XX CONTENTS.

A P P E N D I X F.

CALCUTTA.

Page

Approach to the sand heads—Pilot boats—Saugor island—Advice to

new arrivals—The river Hooghly and approach to Calcutta—Spence's

and Benton's hotels—Stranger's guide to Calcutta—Arrival—Servants

—Hotels—Club house — Charges —Vails—Money-table—Washing-

Boats—Palanquins and Bearers—Letters to England—Letters from

England—Baggage—Coin— Investments — Horses, &e.—Purchases—

Auctions—Banyans'—Houses—Interest—Servants and rates of wages

—Frauds—Bazaars—Credit and purchases—Places of amusement—

Reading rooms—Calcutta public library—Metcalfe hall—Asiatic Soci­

ety's rooms—Mechanics' Institution—Company's botanic garden—

Races, games and sports—Sale rooms—Baths—Nautches—General re­

marks—Thacker, Jephson and Co's Army agency . . . . . . . 456