longshore drift a process of coastal transportation deposition for web.pdf · 4. tombolo tombolos...
TRANSCRIPT
• Longshore drift – a process of coastal transportation
• The sea transports its load of sand and shingle in two main ways:
1. Up the shore in swash
2. Back down the shore in backwash
• Processes of coastal deposition
Coastal deposition occurs when waves lose energy and therefore their ability to carry material
The sea deposits its load on the coastal area
Constructive waves have an ability to move the load inland
Wave refraction in bays result in wave energy decreasing and this results in deposition occurring
Deposited material may include shingle, sand and sediment
• Landforms of coastal deposition
1. Beach
A beach is an area of sand and gravel located in an area between high tide and low tide mark
Waves move up the sea shore, slow down and their load of sand and rocks is deposited
Heavier load of rock and shingle is deposited on the backshore
Finer, lighter material such as sand is deposited on the foreshore
Over time a beach is formed
A storm beach forms when waves are strong enough to push large rocks and boulders above the high tide mark
Rossnowlagh beach
Longshore Drift
Bundoran
Sand Spit
• Landforms of coastal deposition
2. Sand spit
A sand spit is a long narrow ridge of deposited sand and shingle that is connected to the coast at one end
Sand spits develop due to longshore drift and deposition
Sand spits form where the process of longshore drift is interrupted
Sediment is deposited in sheltered and shallow water
Over time this sediment builds up and becomes visible above the level of the sea
• Landforms of coastal deposition
2. Sand spit (continued)
On the seaward side of the sand spit constructive waves deposit fine sediment such as sand and form a beach
Over time the sand spit gets wider
As sand spits grow the area of water behind it is often then sheltered by waves and wind
This often leads to the formation of a salt marsh
Wave refraction may occur at the end of a sand spit which results in the sediment being carried around the end of the sand spit to form a recurved spit (i.e. hook)
• Landforms of coastal deposition
. Sandbars - formation
A sand bar forms when a sand spit extends across a bay and over time connects two land masses
Sand bars will eventually seal off an area of coastline and the water directly behind the sand bar will then be called a lagoon
There are two types of sand bar:
1. Offshore bar
Located away from the coastline
Parallel to the coastline
Generally only exposed at times of low tide
Breaking waves deposit sand on the offshore bar
Size of the offshore bar increases over time
May eventually block or close off the bay creating a lagoon
Sand Bar in Jersey
Bartragh Island in Killala Bay Co. Mayo
2. Baymouth bar
Sand spit extends from one side of a landmass across a bay and reaches the other landmass
Blocks/closes off the bay
Over time the water in the lagoon will dry up and the area will be colonized by salt loving vegetation – it is now called a SALT MARSH
Australia
Rio de Janeiro
Tampa Florida
builders
Alaska
Turkey
Lady’s Island
Lake
Salt Marshes
• Landforms of coastal deposition
4. Tombolo
Tombolos are formed due to wave refraction and longshore drift
Result from a sand spit extending out to an island and connecting the island to the mainland
Waves approach the island, wave refraction occurs
Sediment is deposited
Results in the spit connecting the island to the mainland and – a tombolo is formed
Coastal Features