log intothemachine - themachine - negril · 2019. 12. 18. · texas’s secret island destination...

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WINTER 2019DISPLAY UNTIL FEBRUARY 28, 2020

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Special Issue Inside

PLUS!The secret of

DORDOGNE, FRANCE

ST. KITTS PRIDEEXPLORING THE EMPIRE STATE FEELING FLYGSKAM?

CANADIAN

Luxuriating in Jamaica’s capital of casual

Feel the Rush

visitjamaica.com

Do you feel it?Let’s go!

WINTER 2019

26

36

32

D E PARTMENTS 4 Editor’s Note

6 Social Club Let’s connect

8 Snapshots What’s new, what’s

hot & what’s trending?

14 Getaway Guide: New York State The (Empire) State of Travel

21 In Short: St. Kitts Celebrating local food weekly

24 In Short: South Padre Island Texas’s secret island destination

47 Canadian Travellers An Indigenous dining revolution

51 Round Up Breaking the mall mould

55 How To Reduce your travel footprint with carbon offsets

57 Confession Who ya gonna call?

58 Shop Sun safety

CANADIAN

ON THE COVER: A beautiful beach in Jamaica - istockphoto

F E ATUR E SCOVER STORY26 LUXURY & WELLNESS Negril, Jamaica: A hippie hub goes upscale

32 FAMILY Dordogne, France: A family pilgrimage

steeped in tradition

36 WANDERLUST Montreal: Travel to the future

42 FOOD & DRINK Penang, Malaysia: A blend of East and West

FLIP TO BACK FOR

CANADIAN TRAVELLER WINTER 2019 | 3

CANADIANTRAVELLER.COMEDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jennifer Hubbert

[email protected] DIRECTOR

Gordon AlexanderCONTRIBUTORS

Jessica Allen, Nicola Brown, Sanjeev Chandra, Smita Chandra,

Rebecca Field Jager, Heather Greenwood Davis, Jennifer Hubbert, Lisa Jackson,

Melody Wren, Zach Vanasse CONTENT MANAGEMENT Bannikin Travel & Tourism

WESTERN REGIONAL DIRECTOR – NORTH AMERICA

James MohrNATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER

Joanne TichborneACCOUNT MANAGER

– FLORIDA REGION Bonny Mager

GENERAL ADVERTISING INQUIRIES

1-888-924-7524 [email protected]

PRESIDENT Brad Liski

PUBLISHER Jennifer PrendergastDIRECTOR OF ONLINE Kevin Hinton

ONLINE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ryan McKenzie

ONLINE EDITOR Jennifer Hubbert

CUSTOMER SERVICE Sheila RossACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE Lea LathamDIRECTOR - CONSUMER MARKETING

Craig Sweetman

SUBSCRIPTION HOTLINE 1-888-924-7524

SUBSCRIBER ENQUIRIES: [email protected]

SUBSCRIPTION RATES: One year $17.95 (taxes vary by province). US: $27.95 per year. International: $47.95.

Send Name & Address Along With Payment To:

Canadian Traveller, PO Box 57096, Vancouver, BC V5K 5G6 Canada

Canadian Traveller is published four times per year: Spring (February), Summer (May), Fall (August), Winter (November)

Contents copyright 2019 by Canadian Traveller. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without written permission is

strictly forbidden. The publisher can assume no responsibility for unsolicited material.

ISSN 0030-8986

PO Box 57096Vancouver, BC Canada V5K 5G6

Tel: 1-888-924-7524 Fax: (604) 620-0245

PRINTED IN CANADACanadian Publications Mail Product

Sales Agreement No. 42720012. Postage paid at Vancouver, BC. Return undeliverable

Canadian addresses to Circulation Dept., PO Box 57096, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6E 3Z3.

editor’s note

SUSTAINABLE STEPS

One morning in late August, I cracked my laptop to find two flight confirmations waiting in my inbox. I could practically feel the dopamine release as I relished in the sweet prospect of travel. It was a moment that was promptly followed by a feeling I’d never experienced: flygskam, flight shame. Just the day before, international headlines acknowledged the arrival of Greta Thunberg in New York following a zero-emission trans-Atlantic voyage. Sustainability and climate dominated the

national dialogue.I sipped my morning coffee and chewed over a personal dilemma: How can I reconcile

my thirst for world travel – my identity as a traveller – with an increasing sense of respon-sibility to the planet?

IN 2019, WE WITNESSED MANY negative accounts of travel. The Louvre was described as overcrowded and “suffocating” by its own staff, Rome banned people from sitting on its iconic Spanish Steps, Thailand closed an ecologically devastated Maya Bay (the location

made famous by the Leonardo DiCaprio film The Beach) and people died trying to summit a very crowded Mount Everest.

While those events are hard to ignore, many positive ac-tions were taken by the travel industry in 2019.

Visitors can no longer scale Uluru, a site that is sacred to the Anangu people; Air Canada, Transat, WestJet and Sunwing all made promises to cease promoting dolphin tourism in packaged vacations; Delta Air Lines commis-sioned a feasibility study to manufacture biofuel from forest fibre debris; and Hyatt, Hilton and the state of California joined IGH and Marriott in the ban of small-format single-use plastic toiletries.

Not every step will be a leap on the travel industry’s journey toward sustainability, but I am reassured by the positive momentum, which brings me to the influential role individual travellers can play.

We can distribute travel in more sustainable ways, visit-ing popular destinations during off- or shoulder-seasons,

and delving deeper into a destination by exploring lesser-known “secondary cities.” Sure, we can travel with metal utensils, straws and reusable water bottles, but what I really want to emphasize is that as travellers participating in a $1.7 trillion global industry, we are consumers. That means every dollar we spend (or don’t spend) can be considered a vote. Whether relating to single-use plastics, waste reduction, carbon neutrality or animal welfare, we can exercise a principled approach and resist supporting organizations that no longer align with our values. Likewise, we can consciously seek out operators and service providers that champion sustainable practices and policies, which in turn, drives demand for those products. As a collective, dollar-by-dollar, we can reward the organizations that endeavour to protect and preserve the world we all love so dearly.

AT THE BOTTOM OF MY cup of coffee, I had an idea. A few keystrokes later I received another email notification: An order confirmation for carbon offsets. It wasn’t a perfect solution, but it was one I could live with.

Jenn [email protected]

4 | WINTER 2019 CANADIAN TRAVELLER4 | WINTER 2019 CANADIAN TRAVELLER

DUKORAL® is a drinkable vaccine that may help you spend your vacation where you want – and not in the bathroom.

VALNEVA Canada Inc.600-3535, Saint-Charles Blvd.Kirkland (Montreal), Quebec H9H 5B9

© 2019 VALNEVA Canada Inc.All trademarks used under license.

DUKORAL® is indicated for the prevention of and protection against cholera and diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic Escherichia coli (ETEC)-producing heat-labile enterotoxin (LT) (either LT alone or both LT and heat-stable enterotoxin (ST) together).DUKORAL® does not treat diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic E. coli once it develops. DUKORAL® will only protect against cholera and LT-producing enterotoxigenic E. coli (ETEC). Not everyone who gets vaccinated will be fully protected. Therefore, precautions to avoid contaminated food or water should be taken. Allergic reactions and side effects such as abdominal pain, diarrhea, fever, nausea and vomiting may occur. Rehydration measures should be taken in case of diarrhea.

Visit dukoralcanada.comfor more information.

STUCK INSIDE, FUN DENIED

�2 WEEKS BEFORE TRAVELLING

ASK YOUR HEALTHCARE PROFESSIONAL ABOUT TAKING

IN THE SUN AND HAVIN’ FUN

CANADIAN TRAVELLER WINTER 2019 | 5CANADIAN TRAVELLER WINTER 2019 | 5

DUKORAL® is a drinkable vaccine that may help you spend your vacation where you want – and not in the bathroom.

VALNEVA Canada Inc.600-3535, Saint-Charles Blvd.Kirkland (Montreal), Quebec H9H 5B9

© 2019 VALNEVA Canada Inc.All trademarks used under license.

DUKORAL® is indicated for the prevention of and protection against cholera and diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic Escherichia coli (ETEC)-producing heat-labile enterotoxin (LT) (either LT alone or both LT and heat-stable enterotoxin (ST) together).DUKORAL® does not treat diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic E. coli once it develops. DUKORAL® will only protect against cholera and LT-producing enterotoxigenic E. coli (ETEC). Not everyone who gets vaccinated will be fully protected. Therefore, precautions to avoid contaminated food or water should be taken. Allergic reactions and side effects such as abdominal pain, diarrhea, fever, nausea and vomiting may occur. Rehydration measures should be taken in case of diarrhea.

Visit dukoralcanada.comfor more information.

STUCK INSIDE, FUN DENIED

�2 WEEKS BEFORE TRAVELLING

ASK YOUR HEALTHCARE PROFESSIONAL ABOUT TAKING

IN THE SUN AND HAVIN’ FUN

social club

INSTAGRAMThere are so many personalities and characters in #SanAntonio, past and present, that it seems every hotel, croissant and cocktail has a story to tell. Read the sordid back story behind the @sternewirthatemma libation The Three Emmas at instagram.com /p/B2_qlYuAciM.

FACEBOOKIn October, Canadian Traveller checked into Fairmont Royal Pavilion for a few fab nights in dreamy Barbados. Here’s a video tour of our ground floor Beachfront Suite: bit.ly/2O2qD6j

PINTERESTWhat is it about this high altitude Eastern Sierra enclave that Canadian travellers fall in love with? bit.ly/2VcaM8C

EXPERIENCE THE WORLD CLUB“Greek night at our house tonight!” says Laura DeCicco. Pictured: A tzatziki spice blend, a tasty item that shipped in Canadian Traveller’s Greece-themed Experience The World subscription box. Editor’s note: Join Canadian Traveller’s Experience the World Club by visiting canadiantraveller.com/etw.

BE PART OF THE CONVERSATION WITH CANADIAN TRAVELLER ON FACEBOOK,TWITTER, PINTEREST AND INSTAGRAM

www.facebook.com/canadiantravellermag

www.pinterest.com/cantravelmag

Follow us at:@canadiantraveller

Tweet us at: @cantravelmag

6 | WINTER 2019 CANADIAN TRAVELLER

BE PART OF THE CONVERSATION WITH CANADIAN TRAVELLER ON FACEBOOK,TWITTER, PINTEREST AND INSTAGRAM


THE BEST FEELING ON EARTH. AMERICA’S BEST BEACHES.BEST BEACHESThis time of year there’s no more refreshing feeling than

experiencing America’s Best Beaches, awarded by TripAdvisor®.

Explore 56 kilometers of pristine white sand beaches in

St. Pete/Clearwater. Plus, discover distinctive beach towns

and world-renowned arts and culture. Your revitalizing

getaway awaits on Florida’s spectacular Gulf Coast.

WATERSPORTS ADVENTURESTHE SURREAL DALÍ MUSEUM GULF-TO-GRILL CUISINE

84736 VSPC • Canadian Traveller – November 2019 • 8" x 10.75" • 11/1/19 • lb • sjs

VisitStPeteClearwater.com #LiveAmplif ied

getaway awaits on Florida’s spectacular Gulf Coast.

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What’s the latest & greatest going on in travel? Canadian Traveller looks at what’s new, what’s hot and what’s trending, in hopes of inspiring your wanderlust. Where next?

Travel news , event s and t rend s f rom around the world

SNAPSHOTS

T R E N D S

Where are luxury travellers going in 2020? Virtuoso’s annual Luxe Report has unearthed six trends highlighting how upscale globetrotters will assert their influence in the travel-sphere for 2020. A highlight of the predicted trends include trips to “untouristed and unexpected” places (to avoid the crowds), “country coupling” itinerar-ies which marry varied interests (like a ski vacation that ends at the beach) and “EQ Encounters,” profound experiences leading to increased emotional intelligence. Luxe Report findings also show that celebrating a milestone is the top factor inspiring travel in 2020, while multi-genera-tional travel maintains its stronghold as the top trend of the year, with authenticity vaulting into second place from ninth in 2019.

Deep-dive culinary


D E S T I N AT I O N S

Outside in the capital

Autumn in Ottawa is an awesome time for adventure in the great outdoors. Hike through the hills and take in the dazzling colours of Gatineau Park’s Fall Rhapsody. Take a leap of faith at Canada’s highest bungee jump, the Great Canadian Bungee. Zip through

the treetops and walk on the wild side at Camp Fortune’s aerial park. Take the scenic route and pedal over 800 kilometres of recreational pathways. Soar high over the capital in an open-cockpit biplane tour. Once you get here, Ottawa just keeps you going!

Loch Carron , Scotland

Biplane Adventures

DESTINATION SPOTLIGHT

T R E N D S

Forget FOMO, it’s all about JOMO next year

Step aside FOMO (the effect described as "the fear of missing out"), Flight Centre is predicting that 2020 will be the year of JOMO (the joy of missing out). The company has revealed the list of top 10 travel destina-tions for 2020 and there’s a growing interest outside of classic destinations with more Ca-nadians seeking to beat the crowds and dis-cover something special before everyone else catches on. They named Mérida (Mexico), Sweden, New Zealand, Scotland, Costa Rica, Bali, the Bahamas, the Philippines, Cyprus and Vietnam as its top 10 travel destinations for the year ahead.


JOIN THE FLOCK. Lace your skates, grab your jersey, and get frosty. From the rinks of Anaheim Ice to the Duck’s arena - Honda Center, this is a place chill vibes rule. Explore the unconventional at visitanaheim.org.

Honda Center~Anaheim


Thailand reminds smokers of anti-smoking laws

The Tourism Authority of Thailand is reminding visitors of its "no smoking in public areas" laws. There have been recent incidents of foreign travellers who were unaware of the ban facing an on-the-spot fine or being arrested. The ban was intro-duced in 2014 by the Thai Government for health reasons. Travellers visiting Thailand are advised not to bring any electronic cigarettes or electronic shishas with them, nor any item or equipment associated with e-cigarettes including the "juice"’ used in the device. Likewise, travel advisors or tour operators selling Thailand as a destination should make sure clients are aware of the ban in place on electronic cigarettes, shisha smoking and electronic shishas.

For the first time since it launched in 2016, G Adventures is updating its exclusive Dr. Jane Goodall-endorsed collection of wildlife-focused tours for 2020. New destinations include Indonesia, Botswana, Belize, mainland Ecuador, the Arctic and Antarctica. The

update adds 12 new tours to what is known as The Jane Goodall Collection, which were each selected with the endorsement of the nonprofit Jane Goodall Institute of Canada, and brings the full program of branded experiences to an even 20 trips in total.

T O U R & C R U I S E

G Adventures expands Jane Goodall Collection

Dinner in the Sky Peru

G A

dven

ture

s


The greatest travel stories you’ll ever tell

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE BEST WAY TO TR AVEL AT TR AFALGAR.COM OR CALL +1.800.352.4444*Save 7.5% early payment discount on select 2020 Trafalgar Europe and Britain trips. Regular booking conditions apply and full payment must be applied by February 27, 2020. Not valid on Costsaver or any other offers. Other conditions apply. Subject to availability and maybe withdrawn at any time. TICO #R50015870

Save 7.5%* off Europe & Britain 2020 trips

An innovative advertising campaign that made Lithuania’s tiny capital of Vilnius a must-visit destination has now brought home the award for the Best Destination Campaign - City at the International Travel and Tourism Awards. The controversial marketing campaign launched last year with the tagline: “Nobody knows where it is but when you find it – it’s amazing.” The engaging campaign made headlines around the world, urging visitors to “get down to business” and “build your personal pleasure map.” Overall visitor numbers to Vilnius increased by 12.5 per cent last year, but visitors from Germany and the United Kingdom – the two target markets for the campaign – increased by 37.8 per cent and 20.5 per cent, respectively.


Controversial campaign wins big for little Vilnius

© G

O V

ilniu

s


Only The Seagate offers

the amenities you expect

from a luxury resort,

with the intimate feeling

of a private retreat.

Take your selfie

somewhere wonderful

this winter.

Picture your selfie here.

TheSeagateHotel.com 855-828-6355

1000 E. Atlantic Avenue Delray Beach, Florida 33483

HOTEL • SPA • BEACH CLUB COUNTRY CLUB • YACHT CLUB

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T O U R & C R U I S E

Why smash Champagne when you’ve got ice?

The world’s first hybrid electric-powered expedition ship and newest member of the Hurtigruten fleet, MS Roald Amund-sen, was officially named by polar pioneer and godmother Karin Strand in Chiri-guano Bay on Brabant Island, Antarctica during a historic ceremony honouring the legacy of polar hero Roald Amund-sen. Replacing the traditional bottle of Champagne, Strand revived the tradition of smashing ice against the bow of the ship in celebration, a ritual invented by the ship’s famous namesake. In recogni-tion of the occasion, a donation was made to the Hurtigruten Foundation to further support conservation efforts in the more than 200 destinations Hurtigruten ships visit around the world.

H O T E L S

Making a Maldivian debut

JW Marriott has opened the JWMarriott Maldives Resort & Spa on Vagaru Island, Shaviyani Atoll in

the Maldives. The opening marks the brand's debut in this paradisiacal island destination, with the brand-new resort located just 55 minutes via sea-

plane from the capital of Male. The new resort features 60 spacious villas, which

include private pools and wooden sunbath-ing decks. Each room throughout the resort

draws inspiration from the natural surroundings and local Maldivian culture, incorporating colours and materials that highlight the island destination.

Marriott International Hotel

MS Roald Amundsen


HAPPINESS FLOATS

For our current promotions, reservations or more information, visitAVALONWATERWAYS.CA or call 800.268.3636.

*Cruise price only based on twin-share (cabin Cat. E) on “A Taste of the Danube” river cruise, Nov 22 & 27, 2020 dates, includes all taxes & port charges, and refl ects the Avalon $450 pp discount (subject to change). Flights and travel insurance are additional. 3280 Bloor St. W, Centre Tower, #400, Toronto, ON M8X 2X3, TICO#1893755/50015835

The Danube River is the epitome of “West meets East.” Avalon

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GETAWAY GUIDE

THE BEAUTIFUL BRONXBegin in the Bronx, the only borough of New York City on the American mainland. Perhaps the most epic winter wonderland is the annual Holiday Train Show at the NewYork Botanical Gardens. You’ll see more than 150 famed landmarks, from the Statue of Liberty to Yankee Stadium, made from twigs, leaves, stems and other botanicals. While you’re at NYBG, visit the city’s oldest forest, ThainFamily Forest. Some of its trees got their start during the American Revolution. Designated a National Historic Landmark in 2011, Woodlawn Cemetery is the final resting place of several notable New Yorkers, including suffragist Elizabeth Cady Stanton, writer Countee Cullen, musicians Miles Davis and Duke Ellington and NYC Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia. Ogling enormous monuments makes wandering around a cemetery more fun than morbid.

ROCKIN’ OUT IN ROCKLAND COUNTYAcross the Hudson and north of New Jersey, RocklandCounty boasts more than 60 parks and recreational areas,

many of which stay open during the winter. Two of the biggest are Harriman State Park and Bear Mountain State Park, which extend, collectively, more than 21,000 hectares. The section of the Appalachian Trail that cuts through the two parks is well-maintained and ideal for winter wanderings. Of particular interest is a stretch in Harriman known as the “Lemon Squeezer,” which forces hikers to inch their way between giant boulders.

BEYOND SHOPPINGThe folks behind Syracuse’s Destiny USA joke that the complex is so big, it needs its own zip code. Those looking for a little retail therapy can happily split their time between outlets and stores, while those with youngsters or young hearts will want to take a ride on the vintage carousel.

You can totally shop ‘til you drop at Walden Galleria in Buffalo. The huge shopping centre features all the big brands, including Lululemon and Pottery Barn, alongside 11 full-service restaurants and a food court. When the weather’s bad, or your wallet needs a wee rest, mosey on over to the Urban Air Adventure Park, opening for spring 2020. Among its many coming attractions are a tumble track, ropes course, battle beam, bumper cars and rock climbing walls.

BY JESSICA ALLEN

“I love New York! And there’s no place like it,” goes the official state song. “There’s no place on earth quite like New York.” And it’s true – whether you love the lights and energy of the city or the art and nature found upstate, the Empire State offers something for every traveller.

New York State in winter

Urban Air Adventure

Park


KODAK MOMENTS IN ROCHESTERPhotography has experienced a substantial shift since George Eastman first began manufacturing equipment designed to capture the moving image in Rochester in 1880, a company he later christened Kodak. The George Eastman Museum is not only a mansion in the elegant Colonial Revival style, complete with lovingly manicured grounds, but it’s also the world’s oldest photography museum.

Another home worth a stop (and selfie) is the Susan B. Anthony Museum & House. The famed suffragist and abolitionist lived in Rochester from 1845 to her death in 1906. It was here that Anthony hosted and debated friends like Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Frederick Douglass, and where she was arrested for illegally voting in the 1872 presidential election.

THE FINGER LAKES’ TERROIR The long, narrow lakes that give the Finger Lakes

region its name also give it something else: A microclimate perfect for grape-growing. For seven generations, the Fulkerson family has farmed in Yates County, and today the Fulkerson Winery produces award-winning Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah.

If you’re thirsty for adventure, head to Bristol Mountain Winter Resort for snowboarding, cross-country skiing and downhill skiing. Pack your binoculars to spot the bald eagles and other raptors who spend the cold months at the Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge. Limber up before hitting the slopes with a “snowga” class, courtesy of Finger Lakes Yogascapes. Once you’ve tried tree pose while standing on a snowshoe, or used a ski pole as a prop during a warrior pose, you’ll never look at your plain old mat in the same way again.

Learn about life on the land long ago with a visit to the Ganondagan State Historic Site, which re-creates a seventeenth-century Seneca town (including a full-size bark longhouse). You’ll leave with an appreciation of Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) achievements in such areas as women’s rights, democracy and ecology.

EXPLORATIONS IN ST. LAWRENCE COUNTYTo experience the best of upstate New York, head to St. Lawrence County. The state’s largest county has it all: from apple orchards to the Adirondacks, waterfalls to wineries, folk art to fine art. There’s even a castle, complete with secret passages. And the best view of the county is found at the Wild Center’s Wild Walk, a network of bridges suspended nine metres in the air, or about treetop level. Talk about getting away from it all. •CT

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Buffalo City Hall

Fulkerson WineryMuscat Ottonel

THE BUILDINGS OF BUFFALOBuffalo-Niagara is home to one of the best known attractions on the planet: Niagara Falls. But speeding through the city on your way to the water would mean missing out on its incredible architecture. We’re talking multiple homes as well as a gas station (yes, really) dreamed up by Frank Lloyd Wright; the Buffalo Central Terminal, an art deco masterpiece; and Kleinhans Music Hall, a National Historic Landmark designed by Eliel and Eero Saarinen.

The Buffalo Wing Trail lets you try the city’s most famous foodstuff: a fried chicken wing covered in a top-secret spicy sauce, served with a generous helping of blue cheese. Once you’ve had your fill, head to the boardwalk at Canalside, part of the city’s rejuvenated waterfront. During the winter, you can skate, practice curling and smash into your friends in a rousing game of ice bumper cars.

CANAL CAMPINGSpeaking of canals, the state’s Canal Corporation is transforming the once-mighty canal system. In its heyday, thousands of people and millions of pounds of goods flowed along the Erie Canal, which effectively linked the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes, and helped transform the U.S. from an agrarian to an industrial economy. But as trains replaced waterways, the canals fell into disuse. Today, they’re being rejuvenated into recreational waterways.

Upon its completion in 2020, the Empire State Trail will be a 1,207-kilometre route with trails running from Buffalo to Albany (east to west) and from the Canadian border to New York City (north to south). Many of the canal campsites feature potable water and facilities, and some even have boat launches for easy canal access.


16 | WINTER 2019 CANADIAN TRAVELLER® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.

FIND WHAT YOU LOVE IN NEW YORK STATEPlan your next winter getaway at iloveny.com or with the I LOVE NY app

For more information: VisitSTLC.com | 1-877-228-7810

Explore the Interactive Trail Map at: STLCtrails.com

DiscoverFour Seasons of Trails

Choose your tracks!Just over the St. Lawrence River, on New York’s Northern Border.

®NYSDED

Find your perfect New York getaway at NewYorkGetawayDeals.com.

Legend: NYS Canal System

Amtrak Passenger Railroad Service

Winter getaways are the best in New York State.

Ski or snowboard an abundance of high peaks streaked with scenic trails

and fresh powder.

Explore miles of winter wonderland on snowshoes, XC skis, and snowmobiles.

Experience the magic of frozen waterfalls, holiday light displays, and even

an ice castle.

Sit back and sip a locally crafted beverage, after a day of ice fi shing or dog sledding.

Come in from the cold and wander thru world-class museums and shopping

centers open all year round.

Heat up your weekends at one of several indoor

water parks.

Stay in a cozy cabin or bed and breakfast.

There’s always something to do here!

Rockland County is your gateway to the wondersof the Hudson Valley. Magni�cent views, soulful hikes,charming hospitality, award-winning cuisine, unique

entertainment, and rich history-Rockland County offersthe best of the Hudson Valley while celebrating the

vibrance and diversity of New York State.

explorerocklandny.com

®N

YSD

ED

Rockland County is your gateway to the wondersof the Hudson Valley. Magni�cent views, soulful hikes,charming hospitality, award-winning cuisine, unique




®N

YSD

EDRockland County is your gateway to the wondersof the Hudson Valley. Magni�cent views, soulful hikes,charming hospitality, award-winning cuisine, unique




®N

YSD

ED

explorerocklandny.comexplorerocklandny.comexplorerocklandny.com

Rockland County is your gateway to the wonders of the Hudson Valley. Magnifi cent views, soulful hikes, charming hospitality, award-winning cuisine, unique entertainment, and rich history - Rockland’s “Tourism Triangle” off ers the best of the Hudson Valley while celebrating the vibrance and diversity of New York State.

The Hudson Valley Starts Here.

THE ADIRONDACKS

HUDSON VALLEY

2019 Canadian Traveller Page 1 of 5 v2.indd 1 11/4/2019 12:58:52 PM


How do YOU navigate New York’s canals? Boat. Bike. Hike. Camp...524 miles to explore.

Unlock the adventure!

canals.ny.goveriecanalway.org

NEW YORK CITY

® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.



2019 Canadian Traveller Page 2 of 5.indd 1 11/7/2019 5:27:50 PM

NEW YORK STATE


ilovethebronx.com

Read about one of New York City’smost dynamic boroughs:

The Birthplace of Hip HopThe Home of SalsaThe Borough of Parks

Go Bronx Canadian Traveller 1019.indd 1 10/16/2019 11:29:49 AM

New York City






Yates County welcomes you with a smile that is realYates County, located in the very heart of the Finger Lakes Region, embraces all the best that New York state has to offer. Recreation, relaxation, tasting and touring – it’s all here.

VISIT YATESNY.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION

FINGER LAKES COUNTRYSIDESYates County

FINGER LAKES






buffalowingtrail.com

AMERICA’STASTIEST DRIVETM

@buffalowingtrail

#WingBUF

Bu� alo’s corner taverns have been perfecting the chicken wing since it

was invented at the legendary Anchor Bar in 1964. Secret recipes, historic

charm and Bu� alo-style hospitality make the BUFFALO WING TRAIL

an experience to be savored. Come to Buffalo to taste

the delicious dozen. The wet naps are on us.

AMERICA’S

+ + =AMERICA’S

+

GREATER NIAGARA





I DID A DOUBLE TAKE AT THE CLAY SERVING pot on the counter and raced back to my chair to grab a camera. When I returned, snapping a photo of the sign and holding out my empty dish to the server with glee, he laughed and immediately understood.

I’ve been to a lot of Caribbean islands. This is the first time I’ve ever seen "oxtail and provisions” on

the buffet.The dish is a popular one throughout the Caribbean.

Each island adds its own unique take to what was once one of the least sought-after parts of a cow – although a steady influx of West Indian immigrants means oxtail now goes for a pretty penny in any Canadian supermarket. And “provisions” is what locals call root vegetables like dasheen, sweet potato and yellow yam, all of which made an appearance in this dish.

While most hotel buffets in the Caribbean may offer a local dish or two off to the side at the breakfast bar, this full out display of love for island food at dinner time was something new.

And it isn’t a one-off.Every Saturday night, the Park Hyatt St. Kitts

Christophe Harbour turns their Fisherman Village Restaurant into a local food celebration called “Kittitian All The Way.”

Along with my beloved oxtail were pots filled with curry mutton, peas and rice and a dessert bar that included coconut cake. They are the dishes that most Kittitians enjoy regularly and seeing them replace the “gourmet international offerings” that most hotels have on a menu almost brought a tear to my eye.

Executive Chef Justin Taylor says the decision to feature Kittitian food was a no-brainer.

“It has many similarities to the cuisines of other islands with a large focus on seafood and similar tropical fruits and vegetables,” Taylor admits. “However, the use of local vegetables, fresh Kittitian lobsters, salt fish and breadfruit combined with the presence of Indian flavours and cooking techniques really creates a beautiful harmony and a delicious cuisine that is very unique.”

The resort’s culinary team doesn’t operate in a vacuum. They regularly collaborate with local fishermen and farmers for the menus at all three of the restaurants on property. There is no doubt that the food is a draw, but so is the opportunity for conversations with staff who wear T-shirts emblazoned with the theme night logo and who are happy to explain the items that are less familiar.

There’s an ownership and pride by the servers that is infectious, in part because it was their idea and one that was immediately seized upon by General Manger Flor Van der Voort and the food and beverage team.

“We created Kittian All the Way to introduce our guests to the rich culture and traditions of the island through a culinary lens,” Taylor explains. “It allows our local culinary staff to share their favourite traditional dishes with guests while showcasing something they are incredibly proud of.”

IN SHORT

KITTITIAN ALL THE WAY On a visit to the island of St. Kitts, writer HEATHER GREENWOOD DAVIS finds an island wearing its pride on its chest and showing it off on its dinner plates.

Park Hyatt St. Kitts Christophe Harbour


The evening’s local entertainment and traditional decor honouring batik designs also allows guests to get a taste of authentic island life right on property, Taylor adds.

“So far, the evening has been incredibly successful and well received by our guests. We look forward to continuing this tradition.”

It’s hard not to fall in love with the spot, but then that’s true of the entire island.

St. Kitts sits in the middle of the Caribbean. It was colonized almost simultaneously by the English and the French, but the French were eventually pushed out in 1703. The volcanic island is only 176-square-kilometres and home to 42,000 people. Those who visit quickly feel at home, on- and off-resort.

Physically, it’s an island divided.On my way from the airport, my driver made sure to

point out the peninsula strip that is a landmark on the island.

“To your left is the Caribbean Sea,” he noted. “To your right, the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a ‘choose your own adventure." The lilt in his voice clues me into the fact that this is his usual bit.

Still, to stand at the head of the peninsula is to recognize the power of the two bodies of water that have shaped this destination.

Remnants of that history are found across the island, in the names of places like capital city Basseterre and on menus, too. And despite being the smallest independent country in the Western Hemisphere, its culinary offerings punch far above its weight.

Prior to tourism, the sugar industry – fields of sugarcane once harvested by a slave labour force – fueled the country in one form or another until the early 2000s. Still, the legacy and stories of those days remain, most evident in the old sugar mills that dot the landscape.

On an exploratory trip across the island with Greg’s Safaris, we escape the hustle and bustle of the island’s capital, instead winding our way through the concrete homes in the back-country. When a driver yells out that he caught a Johnny Grundy crayfish moments earlier, we pull over to take a peek.

It’s that kind of island – one where everyone knows everyone and strangers are friends you haven’t met yet. Even the catcall as we pass a group of men on their porch is gentle: “Hey ladies! Enjoy your vacation!”

Soon after leaving the city behind, we are on rainforest paths, bumping through trees laden with mangos, soursop and breadfruit, eyes peeled for Vervet monkeys.

There are other ways to sample the island.“The sugar cane itself has a terroir,” says Mark Theron,

the resident rum sommelier and owner of L&L Rum Shop on Nevis.

I’m back at the Park Hyatt St. Kitts and seated on a high stool at Tot’s Rum Bar for a guided tasting. In front of me, a wall of mostly golden liquids, including some of Theron's favourites but his personal stash has more than 400 bottles.

Over the course of an hour, our rum tasting offers history lessons and informational tastings. We luck out and also sample a few of Chef Taylor's delicate offerings including Clement Coconut Shrimp and yellowfin tuna tataki.

It’s a beautiful pairing, but many visitors to the island opt to diversify where they sample and venture off-site. Over at Shipwreck Beach Bar, tourists sip concoctions and nibble on local snacks while snapping photos of the geckos that wander the island. At sunset one night, we pair our libations with a more serene scene.

At Salt Plage, guests wander up through the sand to a dock perch that extends into the sea. Hosts wander through with menus and soon we have a batch of fresh conch fritters, coconut fried shrimp and one of the island’s famous rum punches to savour.

As the sky turns pink, there is a twinkle of laughter ringing through the air from the mixed clientele of locals and tourists; all of us full, slightly tipsy and abundantly grateful for this moment in paradise. •CT

When You GoWHAT TO DO: Guests who fly to St. Kitts can book an upgraded arrival and departure experience with Kayan Jet concierge. After being met planeside, you’re driven to the private luxury lounge where a hot meal and expedited customs/immigration experience await. While on the island, watch craftsman create batik fashions on-site at Caribelle Batik and then choose from a shop filled with items to carry home a souvenir of your own. WHERE TO STAY: Book one of the 126 rooms (including 48 suites) at Park Hyatt St. Kitts Christophe Harbour and you’ll be steps away from incredible cuisine at any one of their three signature restaurants. Its location on a secluded area of Banana Bay offers balcony views of The Narrows – a majestic straight separating St. Kitts and its volcanic sister island of Nevis. WHERE TO DRINK: Only 15 minutes from Basseterre, Salt Plage is the place to go for dockside sippers and nibbles as the sun sets.

St. Kitts


CANADIAN TRAVELLER FALL 2018 | 23CANADIAN TRAVELLER WINTER 2019 | 23

Escape to

Get away to a destination where adventures are around every corner. Just one hour from Orlando, you can stroll along 37 kilometers of expansive beaches, paddle off the beaten path, or get a taste of local history — fun for all ages runs deep and wide in Daytona Beach.

Plan your getaway at DaytonaBeach.com

Texas’s South Padre Island shows a mother-daughter duo things they didn’t know about themselves.BY MELODY WREN

THE BRIEF FOR A MOTHER-DAUGHTER holiday was simple: Somewhere hot with beaches and watersports. It would be an escape for my daughter, Sara, and a reconnection for both of us as we rarely get dedicated time together.

When we heard about South Padre Island, we knew it would fit. A barrier island off the

Gulf Coast of Texas? How did we not know about it? Asking for a rental car with a GPS at Brownsville

Airport made the agent smile. “You won’t get lost, honey.” She was right. Forty-eight kilometres long, but just

under one kilometre wide, the island is easy to explore. Dune buggies, bicycles, golf carts and cars all share the main street.

We signed up for a Jet Ski tour of the island, imagining ourselves clinging to a driver. The reality scared us both. A self-guided tour with us operating the Jet Ski, having never even been a passenger on one before. We struck superhero poses to work up the nerve. Eddie, our guide, reassured us that we could do it, as we took turns following him in the guide boat. Me first. I mimicked bravado for my daughter, dusting off a long-held mantra: “feel the fear and do it anyway.”

With my hands gripped tight on the handles and my knees pressed into the console, I edged slowly into the “no wake zone” towards Laguna Madre Bay. I glanced ahead at Sara, who was the designated spotter in the guide boat. She made a gesture asking if I was okay. No way was I letting go of the handles to wave, so I tried to smile, but it was more of a grimace. Once out of the no wake zone, Eddie hit the gas. Uh oh. I remembered him say, “If you go faster, you get more control,” so I cranked faster. I leaned back and the spray shot up behind me.

At first it was too fast, but then something shifted in me. I shouted “woohoo” and cranked it again. I was enjoying it – more than I thought possible. I hit huge waves and the Jet Ski bounced up and down. Spray washed over me, hair glued to my head.

Finally, exhausted, I gave the "quit" signal but Sara was watching something else. I kept gesturing when she excitedly pointed to several dolphins porpoising near me. Magical.

Afterwards, our legs still wobbling from exhilaration and exhaustion, we drove to Yummies Bistro to refuel. It was recommended by every local we asked. Shrimp tacos for Sara and a fresh salad for me.

Energized, we headed to the beach to meet up with José Sanchez from Sandy Feet Services. José, a sandcastle sculptor, put us to work immediately lugging pails of water from the sea. Then we dug with our hands, clawing at the sand until we stood knee-deep in our newly dug hole, gathering as much sand as we could for our creation.

Sara was the ace student. I took photos. José, was clear in his instructions: Use more artistic expression, take your time to be creative. By the end, our castle included spires, stairs, archways, doorways and architectural details created with plastic knives, paintbrushes, straws and skewers.

That evening we cleaned up at the hotel and, ravenous from being outside all day, we found the seafood-plentiful menu at the Painted Marlin Grille was exactly what we were looking for.

The next morning, we walked to the South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center with the intention of having just a brief look. Instead, we experienced a fascinating guided tour with Javi Gonzalez, the center’s naturalist educator. We learned that the island is located

IN SHORT

Sand, surf and seafood on

SOUTH PADRETexas’s South Padre Islands shows mother-daughter duo things they didn’t know about themselvesBY MELODY WREN

South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center


at the convergence of two bird migration paths, so we were in the company of some serious birders and some gorgeous birds.

I related most to the beautiful female green heron who rearranges the male’s haphazard efforts to build a tidy nest of twigs. We also spotted several tri-colour herons, as well as a pair of striking roseate spoonbills. The Center took us completely by surprise and we spent almost four hours there.

It, like so many other things we experienced on South Padre Island, reminded us once more to be more open to new activities. •CT

When You GoGET AROUND: There’s truly no need for a GPS on South Padre Island which features one long thoroughfare and side streets. Those who want to go car-free can take advantage of Island Metro, a free shuttle service. View the schedule and route map online.

WHAT TO EAT: Find some time to visit Pier 19, a favourite with islanders and tourists, the water view is a draw, as is the enormous menu filled with fresh local fish. Fresh, local and lots of seafood can be found at Yummies Bistro, which came highly recommended by locals and delivers huge portions. Another place to find fresh fish is Painted Marlin Grille, where you'll find a menu suitable for any foodie.

WHAT TO DO: Rent a kayak or do the guided Jet Ski tour with Parrot Eye Sports. Or, book a session with Sandy Feet Sandcastle Services so you can impress your friends and family with new sandcastle building skills. Beaches: Oh, the beaches! Such choice and all different. Cars can drive right onto the beach for tailgate picnics and camping is allowed on several of them. The main beaches charge an admission fee but if you give the gatekeeper your garbage on the way out, you will get a full refund. Many of South Padre Island's beaches are made accessible to wheelchair, walker and stroller users by Mobi-Mats. Complimentary beach wheelchairs can be borrowed from the City of South Padre Island Fire Station.

WHERE TO STAY: Steps from the South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center, the Hilton Garden Inn fit all of our needs. Beachfront with a pool, restaurant and food truck, the rest of the island activities aren’t far (but nothing really is on an island this compact). With a microwave and fridge, Sara made a smoothie every morning and I enjoyed my tea before we ambled down to the hotel’s gym.

South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center

so relaxing.

so padre

Every year, visitors are drawn here by the warm sunshine and endless shoreline. South Padre Island, Texas’ only tropical island, is the perfect winter escape with a beach made for strolling, fishing and catching beautiful sunsets.

sopadre.com/winter-texan

luxury & Wellness


Jamaica’s capital of casual, Negril has evolved from hippie hub to a luxe destination.BY LISA JACKSON

THE THERAPIST LIFTS MY FEET FROM A footbath filled with sea salt and flower petals. “Let’s get you relaxed,” she says, before applying a soothing scrub with aromatherapy oils, and then gently massaging my calves with warm stones. I don’t think it is possible to feel any more Zen until she ushers me away from the spa and into a private cabana bath

house overlooking the ocean.“Lie down” is the next instruction as she motions to a

table.She smooths healing herbs and citrus-scented oils

over me, kneading the knots in my back. I doze off to the soundtrack of the surf crashing against the cliffs.

This is my first visit to Negril, a lively seaside town on Jamaica’s western tip, and it’s certainly worth the trek. Most tourists to Jamaica zero-in on Montego Bay, partly because of the proximity to the airport. But if you’re willing to make the 90-minute journey, an extravagant escape awaits in Negril.

Rockhouse Hotel, Negril, Jamaica

Negril beach at sunset

A glam getaway in

NEGRIL

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It wasn’t always such a premium luxury and “spa-cation” destination. In the 1970s, Negril was a hub for hippies and musicians (like Bob Marley), but times change: It has since transformed into a dreamy destination renowned for its gourmet gastronomy, stylish spas and ritzy resorts that stretch across rocky cliffs – some as high as 15 metres – and the white sand of Seven Mile Beach, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Jamaica. Negril has become my “go-to” getaway whenever I need a relaxation reboot, and despite the uptick in tourism, I love that it’s retained its original character.

On my first visit to Negril, I check into the magical Rockhouse Resort – a cliffside boutique hotel that was once a hangout for Bob Marley, The Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan, but today attracts luxury lovers craving a tranquil escape. Right away, I can see why The New York Times has called this property one of the “loveliest boutique hotels in the Caribbean." My “room” is actually a thatched-roof stone villa surrounded by flowering foliage and perched on a volcanic cliff. Opening the sliding door to the terrace, I inhale the salty air and marvel at the sea swirling with turquoise, azure and cerulean blues. In the distance, I spot a tiny fishing boat bobbing in waves.

“Is this for real?” my friend, Nneya, asks, surveying the scenery.

RockhousePool at sunset

Rockhouse Restaurant


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Negril Seven Mile

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It’s a question I ask while being spoiled at Rockhouse Spa. From rum wraps to Blue Mountain coffee scrubs, it’s easy to see why wellness seekers flock here to unwind. Treatments can take place in a cliff-edge cabana, a bathing pavilion with incredible sea views or a temple nestled among tropical gardens. After relishing in a Tropical Massage, I return for a spice bathing ritual – a soothing soak in a tub filled with turmeric, ginger, clove, lemongrass and other healing herbs. I marinate in the brew for over an hour, gazing at the blue sea and sky through the floor-to-ceiling windows.

“You smell like a dessert,” Nneya says afterwards.The spa isn’t the only way to chillax. The resort offers an array

of activities for guests, ranging from cooking classes to Caribbean Zumba to African drumming to painting classes (yes, you can learn to paint Bob Marley). One balmy morning, I unroll a mat in the open-air yoga pavilion that faces the Caribbean Sea. For an hour, I bend my body into puzzling positions and focus on clearing the clutter from my mind.

“Close your eyes and breathe deeply,” the instructor says. “Listen to your body.”

My body says that I’m hungry, so later, I follow the winding path to Rockhouse Restaurant to sup on blackened mahi-mahi, jerk grilled lobster, coconut chicken and other Jamaican delicacies. Sipping on Champagne, I watch a spectacular sunset unfold, streaking crimson, purple and orange

hues across the sky, and lament having to leave the next day.

I COME BACK FOR MORE OF NEGRIL A YEAR LATER, BUT THIS time with two kids in tow. While the destination makes an ideal romantic retreat, there are plenty of upscale options for families too, especially at Beaches Negril – a luxury property fronting on a stunning stretch of sugar-fine sand leading to crystal-clear water. Despite the spellbinding scenery, I’m a bit skeptical at first: My past experiences with all-inclusives have involved cramped quarters and boring buffets. But this isn’t your average hotel; at Beaches Negril, every guest is treated like a celebrity. For one, the amenities are amazing, boasting an all-ages spa, complimentary kids’ camps, an impressive 5,486-square-metre waterpark and flexible room arrangements to suit any family.

The top-tier suites also come with personalized butler service. Yes, this is a thing: Jeeves is on-call 24-7 to make your vacation dreams come true, whether it’s fetching your kid’s toy or arranging a family picnic on the beach or booking breakfast with Sesame Street characters. Lounging by the pool, I watch a butler surprise a family with a tray of freshly baked cookies.

“I thought you might be hungry,” he says. “Careful – they’re still hot.”

Butlers aren’t the only over-the-top feature. There are nine gourmet restaurants and a slew of snack bars, each with a different theme and unique menu carefully curated by a team of international chefs.


Rockhouse Resort –

a cliffside boutique

hotel that was once a

hangout for Bob Marley, The Rolling Stones and

Bob Dylan

Whatever your food mood, the eating options are endless. At Stew Fish, we eat breakfast on the beach, sinking our toes into the sand while chowing down on Caribbean Eggs Benedict. After zipping down waterslides all morning, we devour a spicy jerk rotisserie chicken by the pool, followed by ice cream and crêpes at Café de Paris.

Another night, it’s sushi starters at Soy, followed by a memorable meal at Kimonos – an Asian-inspired restaurant that puts on an epic show with Teppanyaki cookery. Seated around an iron flat-surface, my nephew, Yared, and niece, Aaliya, shriek with delight as the chef flings knives into the air, plays with fire and aims pieces of food into their mouths.

“I can’t wait to post this on Instagram!” Yared exclaims.

On our final day, I manage to coax my family off-resort for a night out on the town. A private guide chauffeurs us around Negril’s West End, stopping at the famed Rick’s Café to watch daredevils jump from the cliffs into the surf below. It’s a three-ring circus with all the crowds, but our guide helps us score a plum spot to watch the show.

We hold our breath as a man climbs to the “OMG” diving platform, which towers over the surf at a dizzying height. My niece readies her camera on the brave diver, who springs off the board, backflips mid-air, and nosedives into the waves like a pro-athlete. Everyone hoots and hollers in approval.

“That was sick!” hollers Yared. We celebrate by joining the dance party near the

stage, where live reggae music is pumping. The singer pulls us on stage to belt out a rendition of One Love, and watching my two ecstatic kids singing to throngs of cheering onlookers, my heart swells with happiness. Negril never disappoints and I’m glad we got a glam getaway in this little seaside town where “everything irie.” •CT

2

When You Go

WHAT TO DO: Chukka Caribbean Adventures at Mayfield Falls: Located off-the-beaten-path in the Negril resort area, this hidden gem thrives with wildlife and cool, crystal clear waters. Experience the coolness of one of the island’s rivers or explore the land as you climb the clear watered waterfall and take in the beautiful and tranquil surroundings.

Dream Team Divers was created to offer personalized service to its guests and to introduce certified divers to private sites where they will discover an abundance of corals, sponges and sea life.

WHERE TO STAY: Couples Negril: This adults-only, beachfront playground has a lively, low-key atmosphere that encourages guests to tap into their adventurous side, whether it’s snorkeling along a nearby reef, sailing, scuba diving or simply frolicking in the waves or enjoying a bonfire under the stars. Charela Inn Hotel: Located on Norman Manly Boulevard in Negril, the property has 50 rooms on 11,430-square-metres of Negril Beach. All rooms are built around a hacienda-inspired inner courtyard centred by a round, freshwater swimming pool.

WHERE TO DINE: Murphy’s West End Restaurant: Bringing freshness from the garden, the coop and the sea, expect bold flavours from the kitchen. The setting is modestly Jamaican and they are famous for their jerk lobster, curry shrimp and fish and delicious “devil chicken” (BBQ).Best in the West Jerk Spot: Located on the popular Norman Manley Boulevard, Best in the West is noted for its finger-licking jerk chicken and other delicious local offerings. An inviting atmosphere and refreshing cocktails make for a memorable visit.

Rick’s Café

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3


Coming home to the

DORDOGNENothing ever seems to change here. Maybe that’s its secret. BY NICOLA BROWN

FAMILY

Canoing the Dordogne River, France


Coming home to the

DORDOGNENothing ever seems to change here. Maybe that’s its secret. BY NICOLA BROWN

“WHO’S ON GATE?” DAD calls from the driver’s seat, rousing Mom and I from our snooze. I step out of the car to meet the warm stillness of a French country evening, crickets chirruping as they’ve done throughout the summer nights for the

past 30 years. A familiar childlike giddiness guides my hand on the rusty bolt, dashing gleefully with me into the walled garden.

This trip to France is a near-annual family pilgrimage, yet our 13th century farmhouse in the Dordogne is just as spellbinding now as my very first memories of it decades ago.

Grape vines hug the half-a-metre-thick stone walls above which the steeply-gabled roof leans out, as if it might whisper something candidly to the old walnut tree. Dense leafy ivy continues its goal of trying to swallow the old pigsty, now a recycling pitstop for our many empty wine bottles.

La Vieille Maison has presided over centuries of history, and is full of the kind of delightful idiosyncrasies that make the odd spider worth tolerating. How many people have an arrow slit in their bathroom, for instance? Or a Lascaux cave art replica from the time of the earliest humans painted on the living room wall?

From our hilltop vantage, I can just about still see the sun setting over the valley. I can see something else, too: nothing ever seems to change here.

It strikes me that this is what France excels at, and this is why we keep coming back. No matter what hideous and unwanted novelties the world throws at us, no matter what level of instability and angst we find ourselves living through. In this timeless little corner of the world, we can be confident that everything is how we left it. At least here I know I can always find that genuine sense of coming home.

In the morning, it’s croissants. Dad can no longer hear the soft ping of the oven so he’s in charge of coffee. These buttery morsels go fast, so we wake up early for market days in Le Bugue on Tuesday mornings. In a fraying basket by the cast iron hearth are the other fruits of our haul: Reine-claude (plums) and pruneau (prunes), Cabécou de Rocamadour (local goat cheese) and fraises des bois (wild strawberries). The crowded market, narrowly sandwiched along the main street by ancient limestone buildings, celebrated its 700th anniversary in 2019.

Through the little kitchen window, I watch the neighbour’s chickens having their petit déjeuner too, and wonder what fine dish they will contribute to later. A rich coq-au-vin, perhaps.

Food is everywhere you look in France. But it’s more

than just a hedonistic pleasure here; it’s an anchor that se-cures the centrality of family and tradition. For the French, cooking and eating together, as much as it’s about the food, is about the time spent with the people you’re eating with.

The following day after a heavy meal of confit de canard (duck confit) with creamy scalloped potatoes at Auberge Le Mirandol in Sarlat-la-Canéda, another of the charming medieval towns that dot the region, Dad and I exchange a grin across the table. We already know we’re both ordering crème brûlée for dessert. It’s a tradition.

Days later, we make our usual concerted effort to work off the crème brûlées on a 14-kilometre canoe trip down the Dordogne river. The most scenic stretch flows from the towering cliffs and stunning rock-hewn village of La Roque Gageac, winding through the valley known as "the land of a thousand chateaus" to Port d’Enveaux. If there is a more magical place to canoe in the world, I haven’t found it yet.

I let the strong current do the work as I ogle the scenery, each bend revealing another strategically built castle defending its post. The once English-owned Castelnaud emerges first on the left bank, its powerful position seemingly unrivaled. That is until the river bends right and the yet-more-impressive Beynac, its French-owned rival, issues a challenge.

Staring each other down, they remain locked in a silent reminder of the struggle between the French and the English during the Hundred Years’ War. Seemingly unaware, families from all backgrounds picnic blissfully with fistfuls of baguette and third helpings of red wine on the grassy banks beneath the ramparts.

We float on as France takes its collective sieste in the hazy afternoon heat. A papery winged dragonfly perches on the inviting brim of Mom’s sun hat. They’ve always liked her best.

In distinct contrast to the serenity of the river is the speed of the roads. Dad’s Formula One-style driving on the winding single tracks is reliably punctuated by yelps of protest from the passenger seat. We’re trying to reach Meyrals before Galerie Magis closes. Among the hay bails and hamlets that whizz by is a field of straw-stuffed creatures adorned with everything from rusty hubcaps to swimming goggles. Meyrals’ annual scarecrow festival is in full swing.

Inside Pascal Magis’ studio we are all lost in the folds of one of his thick, textured abstracts. “This looks like a Périgord goose, or perhaps a willow tree, do you see?” asks Mom.

We watched our favourite local painter become a world-renowned artist over the years before (and after) he died in 2011. His youthful spirit echoes my own memories of this studio as a young girl, and it lives on in the sprightly brushstrokes of an original acrylic now hanging in my parents’ living room in Canada. I can still remember that kind crinkle with a hint of mischief in his

Canoing the Dordogne River, France


eyes and the paint splattered liberally all over his Italian leather shoes.

The Dordogne seems a fitting place to be an artist or a poet, devoid of all the digital distractions of modern life. Growing up, I spent many idle hours buried in books, curled into doorways or perched on window sills like so many a French cat. Or inventing games with my cousins that involved racing around a ping pong table in the barn on tiny tricycles well into the years when we’d outgrown them, determinedly draping our adult-length legs over the handlebars to reach the pedals.

Since we bought this little house in rural southern France, we’ve never had a TV. There’s no phone, and there’s no internet. When we get back after a day of wine tasting at Chateau de Tiregand, or an alfresco classical concert on the grounds of Chateau de Campagne, we sit and we talk. We spend time together as a family.

As I embark on my own journey of building a family in the next few years, I can’t wait to share this special corner of the world with them. I hope, in turn, my kids will share it with their kids too, so no matter how much the world changes through the generations, our family will always have La Vieille Maison, a place that never changes; a place to call home.

On our last night, we’re enjoying one of the region’s fanciest culinary treats alongside one of its least fancy: foie gras, a rich liver pâté, and cassoulet, a sausage and white bean stew. Beyond the kitchen window it’s pitch black outside and even the crickets have gone to bed. Mum’s head gently bobs as she nods off at the table. I can feel my eyes are closing too.

“Come on, put your shoes on, I want to show you something,” comes Dad’s voice from the doorway. We take that walk a few yards down the road, the beam of the flashlight the only thing I can see, scanning ahead across the gravel. With each familiar step I get a year younger until we reach the darkest point on the hill and I am no more than six, my tiny hand lost in his giant palm. He clicks the flashlight off and the sky erupts in a billion stars. The prominent band of the Milky Way glows in celestial prowess as the light pollution of the modern world seems a distant memory. I remember learning when I was young that, because of how long it takes their light to reach Earth, when we look at the stars we see them as they were years ago.

“Look, there’s the Saucepan,” Dad says, “and Orion’s belt.” I can just about make out the knowing smile on his face. “Exactly where we left them.” •CT

Top to bottom: Dordogne River, Sarlat la Caneda, market stall in Sarlat


Where to rent canoes along the Dordogne River: Canoe Roquegeoffre or Canoe Détente Dordogne are both located in Port d’Enveaux. They offer canoes and kayaks with paddles, lifejackets and waterproof buckets. A bus takes you from here up river to any number of starting points. Make sure to go from the put-in point at La Roque Gageac to take advantage of the most scenic portion of the river.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK: Regional specialties: Auberge Le Mirandol in Sarlat-le-Canéda serves many of the region's specialties – confit de canard, foie gras, gateau aux noix (walnut cake) – at more reasonable prices than the eateries along the main thoroughfare. You’ll find it tucked away at the intersection of three beautiful cobbled alleyways. Eat on the terrace but poke your head inside to explore the natural cave at the back of this 15th-century restaurant. Where to go wine tasting: Head to Château de Tiregand in Creysse for free wine tasting on vast castle grounds. Needless to say, we've tasted a lot of local wine here over the past 30 years and this chateau continues to produce our favourites. The little-known appellation of Pécharmants in the Dordogne produces a heavenly blend of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Don’t leave without trying the Grand Millésime.

St Nicholas Abbey

When You GoWHAT TO DO: Where to shop at local farmers’ markets: Le Bugue Market on Tuesday mornings is reliably packed with locals and tourists from around the world. Bargaining is de rigueur so don’t be afraid to try. You’ll find everything from local fruit and veg, cheeses, olives, nuts and sweet treats to handicrafts, textiles, summer clothing and the guy who sells wine out of his vintage Citroën.Where to see cave paintings: Font de Gaume in Les-Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil is a spectacular natural history site where you can get up close to some of the most awe-inspiring cave paintings in the region. Dating from 17,000 BC, the prehistoric art includes a bison whose legs and belly are formed by the stalactite contours and cavities of the wall and seems to come alive in the flicker of candlelight.


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Hotel

Monville


Travel in the Future

MONTREAL Robot room service?

Virtual Reality cinemas? Forget Old Montreal,

REBECCA FIELD JAGER explores a version of Future Montreal.

A STRIP OF BLUE LIGHT GLOWS beneath my hotel room’s door. It’s here, I think, giddy with anticipation. This is the first time I’ve ever had a robot visit my suite. I throw open the door with a polite smile and a warm hello; machine or not, this is, after all, my favourite indulgence during

a hotel stay. Room service.He, she, it… stands before me, a short,

brightly coloured, upright cylinder-shaped thing with cartoony eyes and a happy-face grin, and a touch-screen for a forehead. H2M2, as it is affectionately called, makes a whirring noise and a lid at the top of its head lifts open to reveal a white paper bag carrying the snack I’d ordered. I take the bag, press “no” to its message asking me if it can be of further assistance, and the robot turns and glides away.

No, I’m not dreaming.The future is now in Montreal.When the city’s Hotel Monville opened its

doors in the spring of 2018, its room-service delivery robot was a first in Canada and one of the hotel’s many nods to the destination’s emergence as one of the top artificial intelligence (AI) hubs in the world. From its vaulted lobby to its 20th-floor rooftop terrace, the vibe is ultra-modern with electronic kiosks enabling guests to easily check in and receive their room keys, and sleek minimalist rooms boasting at least one 50- to 55-inch web-enabled smart TV. The hotel, I discovered soon after I arrived, is like a microcosm of what’s happening elsewhere in the city.

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For me, Montreal is many things. It’s been the site of gal-pal gatherings to shop or revel in the never-ending nightlife. It’s hosted my culinary adventures during which I took cooking classes, went on bagel rampages and glorious romps through Marché Jean-Talon. And yes, the city has been the backdrop for more than one romantic getaway, with the VIA Rail train winding its way from Toronto and depositing me and my amour at the downtown station to embark on a wine-and-dine weekend in Old Montreal.

But a tech-centric visit? That’s never been on my radar. Nor, I learned, did it have to be.

Here’s the thing: If culture, cuisine, architecture, adventure and hospitality are the hallmarks of a hotspot travel destination, Montreal has always had it all. However, the whole technology scene now influences many of its offerings. For its 375th birthday celebrations in 2017, for example, years of effort went into creating Montreal en Histoire’s Cite Memoir, a massive project comprised of video projections that appear throughout Old Montreal on various structures and mobile-app-enabled audio that tell the stories of the city. Today, you can still catch these outdoor tableaus (in winter months, Friday and Saturday evenings only) or indoors at the historic Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Hotel. There, I skipped along an interactive “river” that changed with the seasons and responded to my every step, whether I was crunching ice or walking on a reflection of clouds. Yet another tableau, in the Agora room, captures the 1960s war protest movement by focusing on John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s famous 1969 bed-in at the hotel.

And speaking of bed-ins, I staged a mini-one of my own at The Society of Arts and Technology (SAT). When I first set foot in its Satosphere, a huge dome-shaped theatre where a series of short films were playing, I was surprised to see fellow audience members laying on a bean bag mattresses tightly packed together on the floor. When in Rome, I thought, and joined them just before the room went dark. Soon, I became immersed in the films that were projected on the 360-degree spherical screen. Snug-as-a-bug and flat on my back on my beanie, it was like watching a movie being played on the sky.

At Phi Centre, a restored building in Old Montreal, which houses an art gallery, theatre, performance space and production facility, among other things, I visited the VR (Virtual Reality) Cinema. Cupped in a comfy arm-chair and equipped with a VR-headset, I was transported into beautifully crafted short films, virtual reality works of art. Phi Centre’s upcoming programming includes an exhibit of internationally-renowned contemporary artists’ works re-imagined as a VR experience, and promises to be, out of this world – not to mention, out of this reality.

The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA) is yet another place where technology intersects with art. I got to take in the world premiere of Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, which left me reeling. Not only for the designer’s work, but also the incredible local talent that contributed heavily to the exhibit, namely internationally renowned creative companies Lemieux Pilon 4D Art and Rodeo FX. Mugler has since left, but MMFA is famous for its cutting-edge exhibits, so check out the programming offered when you’re in town.

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SUSTAINABILITY. A CULTURE FUELED BY

At Delta, we are committed to being a good steward of the environment, a positive force in the communities we serve, and a great place to work and fly.

MONTREAL ABOVE AND BEYONDI concluded my journey with what only here could be considered an old-fashioned way: A helicopter ride above the city. The adventure was among the 31 Montreal-based experiences now being offered by Attractions, a booking.com program that lets you quickly pick and book cool things to do via a location-based mobile phone app in cities around the world. Like others in the travel industry, the company is working to incorporate AI into its offerings and teases that soon it will be able to cater options matched exactly to your environment, wants and needs.

Not surprisingly, the views from the helicopter were spectacular, and it thrilled me to look down and try to identify the places I’ve been to and those I have yet to discover. I marvelled at the hustle and bustle of the city of innovation below me, at how people from all walks of life are following their dreams and going above and beyond what even a few decades ago few could have imagined. I mused about what everyone was doing – at one point, I even wondered what my new friend, H2M2, was up to. •CT

When You GoWHAT TO DO: Every night, the Jacques Cartier Bridge lights up and responds in real time to the happenings of the city, social media and the weather. Created by Montreal’s Moment Factory, the display is, of course, free. For a good deal that gives you access to 28 attractions, purchase a Passeport MTL available in two-day ($93) and three-day ($113) passes. As an added bonus, you get free unlimited public transportation. Available online at passeportmtl.com.

WHAT TO EAT: Be among the first to try out a Canadian first, Time Out Market, which is opening at the end of 2019 in the Centre Eaton de Montreal. Billed as "the city’s best coming together under one roof," look forward to a curated mix of food from the city’s top chefs and restaurants, fabulous bars, cultural experiences, a demonstration kitchen and more. Or, in a town teaming with food options, if you’re after a special experience head up to Les Enfant Terribles, Montreal’s highest elevation at which to dine, located on the 44th floor at 1 Ville Place Marie.

GETTING AROUND: Even with more than 80 spoken languages and one-third of the city speaking English, it’s always good to brush up on your French. Taxis from the airport are around $40 but a shuttle is only $10. The Métro subway boasts 68 stations, and the 33 km underground shop-lined walkway (RESO) lets you get around on foot, no matter the weather.

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Penang, Malaysia

A MOVEABLE FEAST!

FOOD & DRINK


AS OUR PLANE MAKES ITS FINAL approach towards George Town, the capital city of Malaysia’s State of Penang, the skyscrapers looming large on the horizon seem much like those of any other rapidly growing Asian metropolis. The brilliant blue water of the bay that once made the city a bustling port comes into view, dotted with ships and fishing boats.

But, as we soon discover, there is much more to George Town than its glittering skyline reveals at first glance.

Walk away from the modern business district to the streets of old George Town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you’re transported to a different era altogether. The city was founded in 1786 by the English East India Company, which obtained land from the local Sultan of Kedah. The British established a free port in which anyone was welcome to live and work without paying any taxes. The population burgeoned as Malay, Chinese, Indian, Thai and European settlers made it a centre for trade and commerce. Spices such as pepper, cloves and nutmeg, in great demand around the world, grew in profusion on the island of Penang and the plantations and shipping docks provided steady work. Then, in 1832, the British moved their administrative capital to Singapore that, over the next century, evolved into the great city it is today, while Penang remained a sleepy backwater. George Town still appears to be frozen in time, which is undoubtedly its greatest charm.

The historic area of George Town is small enough to explore on foot. Reminders of the fascinating mixture of cultures and religions found in Penang are everywhere you go – in the snippets of languages swirling around; in the aromas wafting from street food vendors; and in the architecture of the city. Along the waterfront we saw colonial British buildings: The spire of St. George’s Church, the whitewashed columns of the High Court, the low stone walls of Fort Cornwallis with cannons poking out, and the sprawling lawns and gracious arches of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, still the best hotel in town. Turning away

Penang, Malaysia

A MOVEABLE FEAST!

CANADIAN TRAVELLER FALL 2018 | 43

Exploring a blend of East and West, where different cultures were thrown together so that they melded in unexpected ways.BY SMITA CHANDRA AND SANJEEV CHANDRA

View of George Town from

Penang Hill at dawn


from the sea-front boulevards and entering the maze of streets that make up the old town brings you into another world – that of the original Malay population of Penang and of the Chinese and Indian immigrants who brought their own traditions of living, worship and food with them.

Penang’s kaleidoscopic of cultures and cuisines is best illustrated by its riotous variety of street food that attracts food enthusiasts from every corner of the globe. Walk through the sleepy streets of George Town in the daytime and it is hard to believe that as soon as the sun goes down they transform into the setting for a moveable feast. Vendors wheel out carts with sizzling grills and woks that they use to churn out grilled fish, skewered kebabs, fiery curries, wok-fried noodles, flatbreads, rice crêpes and every other delicacy that you could desire. The best possible way to enjoy this feast is to join the throngs of people hovering around each stall and eat your way across town.

Our meandering brought us to Little India, dominated by the colourful façade of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple covered with sculptures of Hindu deities and, a short distance away, the ornate

Kek Lok Si Temple

Chinese waterfront settlement


dome and minarets of the Kapitan Keling Mosque. The streets were lined with stores selling colourful saris, gold jewellery and Indian groceries – the sights, sounds and smells instantly making us feel at home. We stopped to admire a vendor expertly stretching a disc of dough with his hands until it was paper-thin. As he cooked it on the griddle, broke an egg into its centre, wrapping the edges around it to form a neat little packet, we decided we just had to try this local delicacy known as murtabak. Created long ago by Indian Muslim settlers, murtabak is a popular street food in Penang, usually served with a spicy curry. Another fascinating sight was the appam vendor singlehandedly operating six little woks on his cart as he cooked the spongy South Indian rice pancakes, topped with coconut chutney and served on a banana leaf.

George Town’s largest ethnic group are descendants of Chinese settlers and their influence is clearly visible. The Chinese New Year is one of the biggest festivals celebrated

here, with temples illuminated with trad-itional lanterns, fireworks and, of course, plenty of street food. Young women go down to the Penang Esplanade and throw oranges into the sea, which is guaranteed to bring them eligible husbands. Some of the most elaborate celebrations are hosted by clanhouses, that at one time were the hub of Chinese life in Penang. People newly arrived from different regions of China formed mini-ature villages around their own clanhouses that became the centre of social life, where you’ll find schools, temples and theatres. To-day, the lavishly painted exteriors of the old clanhouses have been lovingly restored and the largest ones, such as the Khoo Kongsi, are major tourist attractions.

Chinese Teochew immigrants introduced stir-fried rice noodles to Penang and one of the most popular street foods is Char Kway Teow, a dish of fresh rice noodles cooked over high heat with seafood, pork and vegetables, served on a banana leaf. When you stroll out in the evening in search of a bite to eat, simply follow the irresistible aromas to the nearest food cart. Order a plate of Char Kway Teow, watch the vendor deftly stir fry the ingredients over a very high flame to give it the classic Wok Hei or "breath of the wok" and savour the charred flavour and smokey aroma that is characteristic of this dish.

George Town’s famous Blue Mansion offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of the rich merchants who built their fortunes in Penang. This was the house of Cheong Fatt Tze, a Chinese merchant who became one of the wealthiest businessmen in South-East Asia in the late nineteenth century. Built by craftsmen he summoned from China, it reflects his love for ornate, traditional architecture. The sprawling building with its five courtyards housed him, his three favourite wives (five others were lodged elsewhere), eight sons and other assorted family members. Today the mansion has been restored to its original condition and boasts a restaurant and a boutique hotel. Guided tours are permitted so everyone can enjoy its exquisite interiors.

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Penang is well known for its Peranakan culture, which evolved as a result of intermarriage between local Malays and people from other parts of the world. The largest group of Peranakans have Chinese ancestry, but there are also other smaller groups who trace their origins to people of Indian, Arab and Portuguese heritage. Peranakan men are affectionately addressed as Baba and the women as Nyonya. Peranakan culture has fascinating diversity, reflecting all the different sources it draws from, and this is especially evident in its food.

Nyonya cuisine is a unique fusion of Chinese-Malay flavours where you will taste creamy coconut milk, aromatic lemongrass and galangal combined with soy sauce, fiery chillies and fresh coriander in many classic dishes such as beef rendang (beef cooked with coconut milk, spices, herbs and chillies), Penang assam laksa (rice noodles served in a broth of tamarind, fish and chillies) and many other dishes. In our wanderings, we chanced upon a Peranakan restaurant owned by a Punjabi Malay family and were treated to Punjabi dishes such as biryani and goat curry that were at once familiar and yet subtly different with their seamless blending of the two cuisines.

Penang is a unique place, a blend of East and West, where different cultures were thrown together by the eddies of history so that they melded in unexpected, delightful ways. Visit George Town to experience a place like none other in the world. You will be amazed by what you see, and above all, what you taste. •CT

When You Go

WHERE TO STAY: Built over a century ago, the elegant Eastern & Oriental Hotel in George Town embodies colonial opulence and style. Stay in a room overlooking the bay and don’t miss the sumptuous breakfast spread or lavish happy hour.

WHERE TO DINE: Established more than a hundred years ago, Hamideeyah claims to be the oldest restaurant in George Town. Come here to try classic Penang style Nasi Kandar (rice served with a variety of curries).

WHAT TO SEE: Khoo Kongsi, a Hokkien clan temple, is one of the oldest and grandest in Penang. Admire its rich interiors, intricate carvings and ornate traditional décor.

Penang is a unique place, a blend of East and West, where different cultures were thrown together by the eddies of history so that they melded in unexpected, delightful ways.


DINNER RESERVATIONWhat is traditional Canadian food? Can it really be poutine, Nanaimo bars and beaver tails? Is it the food we serve in our homes? Whose homes? More pointedly, where is Indigenous fine dining in Canada’s commercial foodscape? JENNIFER HUBBERT travels to Osoyoos, B.C. to bite into the complexities of decolonizing Canadian cuisine while getting a taste of the nation’s long-overdue Indigenous dining revolution.

CANADIAN TRAVELLERS

Rabbit Pasta with handcut chestnut noodles

The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry


Sunset looking at the patio of The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry


IN ITS PAST LIVES, THE RESTAURANT AT SPIRIT RIDGE Resort in Osoyoos, British Columbia has been many things. Generally gourmet, often Italian-inspired, but mostly predictable.

Sitting upon the traditional land of the Syilx People and over-looking the vines of Nk’Mip Cellars, the venue’s newest concept is joyously apt. Since opening in April, The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry has been introducing guests to Indigenous

fine dining under the stewardship of Chef Murray McDonald.The restaurant’s name is a nod to the four food chiefs: “bear”

represents land-roaming protein, “fish” embodies seafood, bitter “root” symbolizes vegetarian and vegan dishes, and the Saskatoon “berry” represents dessert. Menu items intuitively fall into one of the four categories, but otherwise, nothing else is quite so simple.

“One of the things our group is tasked with is trying to sum up what Indigenous cuisine is,” explains Chef McDonald. “Coast to coast, you’d swear to god it wasn’t the same food.”

Take for example, bannock; a food that’s widely recognized as an Indigenous staple.

“The weird thing about bannock is that it’s not actually an In-digenous food. It’s a survival food forced upon them by my ances-tors,” McDonald remarks, acknowledging the duality of his mixed

European-Indigenous background in the same breath. His heritage rep-resents both the colonizer and the colonized. “You’re stuck on a reserva-tion and you’re given a bag of flour, salt and baking powder. Some nations hate [bannock]. Others embrace it. A lot of guys I talk to, they say, ‘Chef, it shows the struggle of the people and how resilient they are.’ That they made something so beautiful, so simple, out of nothing.”

Diners will find varying styles of bannock served at The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry. There’s a Ban-nock & Spreads sharing plate, a ban-nock sandwich and a few fruit-forward desserts, all of which vary in texture and appearance.

“Bannock’s one of those things everyone makes slightly differ-ent. Tammy’s bannock (The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry's pastry chef, a member of White Bear First Nations) has the texture of a flaky scone. It’s a thick bannock, so it’s really different. On the dessert menu, there’s a fry bread style of bannock. And Jess’s BBSLT Sandwich is actually Nk’Mip Cellars winemaker Justin Hall’s grandmother’s bannock recipe,” says McDonald.

Given the polarizing opinions of bannock, Chef makes a point to note his restaurant first secured the go-ahead of the Osoyoos Indian Band before serving it. “We got Chief Louie and council involved and have their blessing to do it.”

Recipes and politics of bannock aside, Chef points out that much of a traditional Indigenous diet is seasonal and terroir-specific, which lends to the complexity of planning The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry's menu.

“Ultimately, we decided we just can’t [define Indigenous cui-sine]. [Our menu] takes influences from across the country… and if Justin’s grandmother made it, that’s traditional enough for us.”

MENU HEROESBANNOCK & SPREADS – White bean sumac spread, roasted hot pepper corn succotash, beetroot relish, garlic fried tomatoes

SALMON PLATTER (NTYTIKXW) – Maple candied pink salmon, smoked sockeye, coho ceviche, chum roe, capers, and assorted pickles

“ASKAWA” TARTARE OF THE LAND – Bison, egg yolk emulsion, wild rice, pickles and mustard

BISON – Spruce roast, nettles, Hasselback sweet potato, swiss chard, onion petals, What The Fungus mushrooms, spruce jus

LIFE IS JUST A PEACH – Peaches, thyme fry-bread, consommé and ice cream

Bannock & Spreads

Salmon Platter


For Mcdonald, The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry represents a personal journey. A born-and-raised Newfound-lander, McDonald’s European heritage is English, Irish, Scottish and Scandinavian, while his mother’s family is part Inuit from Labrador and his father’s family is Metis.

“My ancestry wasn’t something we talked about,” McDonald remarks of his upbringing. “My grandmother was embar-rassed that she was part Inuit in rural Newfoundland. She wouldn’t talk about it. [She] dyed her hair and bleached her skin. From looking at records, the only thing we could figure out is that my great-great grandmother was taken away from her family by the missionaries and given to a Christian family to raise.”

At 20 years of age, McDonald pursued professional cooking as a means to travel the world. He worked in the Caribbean, Mexico, the South Pacific and China before settling into family life in Metro Vancouver where he served as Fairmont Pacific Rim’s

executive sous chef. Five years later he pur-sued a rumour of a conceptional lodging in Newfoundland. That property was Fogo Island Inn.

It was in this role of founding executive chef that McDonald gained notoriety in Canada’s foodscape and where he first took a deep dive into Indigenous cooking and cuisine – albeit by accident.

“I used to do a lot of pre-cooking over a fire at Fogo. One day, Charlie Sark was my helper. He said, ‘Chef, you’re cooking Indigenous food,'" McDonald describes.

Chef took a moment to let the remark sink in.

Yes, maybe I am, he thought.“I thought I was just getting back to the

history of Newfoundland food and survival off the land. I had no idea,” McDonald admits. “I was reconnecting; I was cooking this way before I realized I was.”

In the years that followed, Chef became active in promoting Indigenous cuisine, travelling across Canada for speaking engagements and working with the Indig-enous Tourism Association of Canada.

Once the isolation of Fogo Island began to wear on his young family, the McDonalds made a move to Toronto where he served as executive chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto. An esteemed position, to be sure, but he had a nagging feeling he could not ignore.

“Instead of being in Toronto and talking about Indigenous culinary, [I thought] wouldn’t it be cool to move to a reserva-tion and actually do it?” explains McDon-ald. “For me, it’s been a bit of a spiritual journey.”

And so Chef Murray McDonald found himself in Osoyoos, championing Indig-enous fine dining, a dining philosophy long overdue for its place in the mainstream Canadian foodscape.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR CHEF MCDONALD and The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry? Building out the next season’s menu while continuing to elevate the profile of Indigenous cuisine.

Glance at the menu to see chicken is noticeably scant, featuring in a single dish on the lunch menu. Carnivores choose from domestically raised bison, elk, rabbit, duck and wild caught fish. With his mind on his winter and spring menus, McDonald hopes there exists the possibility of one day offer-ing game meat.

“I believe we’ll be able to serve game meat because we’re on a reservation. We’re

looking to work with the Osoyoos Indian Band,” he explains. His logic is as follows:

“If I go with you on your land and hunt with your guys, I should be able to serve your meat.”

McDonald notes that during his tenure at Fogo Island Inn, he was able to purchase moose meat from hunters and serve it in the restaurant. “The problem is, all health laws are provincial, not federal, so [any change] will take some time.”

Long-term, McDonald hopes to see the government successfully lobbied to estab-lish an Indigenous food certification, with the aim of permitting certified restaurants to serve wild game, province wide.

But for now, The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry will continue to nourish the minds and bodies of its diners, impart-ing Indigenous values one plate at a time.

“How do you connect with a culture?” asks Chef. “I think it’s through the food. What’s the one thing [people] never leave behind? The food. They take it with them. It’s never lost. That’s how you understand culture. That’s how I’ve been trying to un-derstand the part of my culture that’s been taken away from me – that I didn’t know existed until I was a teenager. I believe if everyone sat down at a table, drank some wine and shared each other’s food, half the world’s problems would end overnight.” •CT

7 MORE CHEFS raising the profile of Indigenous dining in Canada:

�CHEF JOHL WHITEDUCK RINGUETTE NishDish Marketeria and Catering, Toronto

�CHEF SHAWN ADLER Pow Wow Café, Toronto

�CHEF JOSEPH SHAWANA Kū-kŭm Kitchen, Toronto (Reopening soon at 557 College St.)

�CHRISTA BRUNEAU-GUENTHER Feast Café Bistro, Winnipeg

�CHEF BILL ALEXANDER Grey Eagle Resort & Casino, Calgary

�CHEF SHANE CHARTRAND SC Restaurant, Enoch, AB

�CHEF ANDREA CALLAN Red Fox Club, West Kelowna

Chef Murray McDonald

When You GoWHERE TO STAY: Spirit Ridge Resort is an all-service destination resort located in Osoyoos, British Columbia. There are 226 rooms ranging from studio suites to one-, two- and three-bedroom villas which lend well to families and groups. The resort belongs to Hyatt’s Unbound Collection.

WHAT TO DO: On the sprawling property, find Nk’Mip Cellars, Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre, two pools and Solterra Desert Spa. While not waterfront, Spirit Ridge has a private beach on Lake Osoyoos which is served by a guest shuttle. Off-resort, visitors can’t ignore that they’re in wine country. Osoyoos bookends the Golden Mile Bench with the neighbouring community of Oliver. Along this bountiful stretch are more than 40 wineries; a great deal of them are estate wineries. Add the must-visit tasting rooms of Covert Farms Family Estate and Moon Curser Vineyards (named the 2019 Best Performing Small Winery by WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada) to your itinerary.


We’ve all spent countless hours at the mall during the holiday season, pushing through the crowds, sweating in our winter coats and struggling to find parking. But not all malls are created equal; some shopping centres take it to that next level and become destinations unto themselves, bringing together entertainment, dining, hotels, specialty services, attractions and more. Canadian Traveller looks at five North American shopping centres that have shattered the mall mould.

MORE THAN A MALLROUND UP

WALDEN GALLERIA Buffalo, NYWalden Galleria calls itself Western New York’s premier shopping, dining and entertainment destination. Located in Buffalo, this two-level shopping centre is home to more than 200 retail stores, 11 full-service restaurants and international food courts, and several entertainment options for all ages.

Cross-border shoppers can take advantage of Walden Galleria’s “Shop & Stay” package, providing savings by bundling Walden Galleria shopping and dining with nine participating area hotels. The package – waldengalleria.com/shopnstay – includes savings of up to 10 per cent on rooms, plus gift cards, complimentary tote, free shuttle buses and coupon books with more than $300 in savings.

And this winter, Walden Galleria is introducing a brand new program that will give visitors savings on dining and entertainment throughout the shopping centre. The Winter Fun Pass ($50 USD) will offer a choice of four different dining and entertainment venues, as well as bonus attractions that allow you to visit other local area attractions in western New York free of charge. The Winter Fun Pass will be available for pre-sale in December and valid from January through mid-March. More information is available at waldengalleria.com/winter.


DESTINY USA Syracuse, NYAs the largest shopping, dining and entertainment venue in New York State – and the sixth-largest in the United States – Syracuse's Destiny USA is packed with top retail brands, incredible food options, 18 entertainment venues and more.

Kids of all ages – and even adults – will enjoy racing electric go-karts at RPM Raceway, adventuring on the world’s largest indoor suspended ropes course at Canyon Climb Adventure, escaping from an Egyptian tomb at 5 Wits escape room, defeating their foes in APEX Entertainment’s laser-tag zone, and sliding the giant slides at Billy Beez.

Kate Spade New York is set to open at Destiny USA this December, along with a number of other new shops and entertainment options like the LEGO® Store, 110 Grill, APEX Entertainment, Beef Jerky Outlet, Urban Outfitters and Charlotte Russe.

While some might argue that there’s simply too much to see in one day, Destiny USA has an Embassy Suites by Hilton on-site. The Destiny USA “Stay & Save” package offers exclusive retail and dining deals for overnight guests and the “Shop & Drop” package delivery service transports your bags from Destiny USA to the hotel front desk. More information is available at destinyusa.com/visit.

WEST EDMONTON MALL Edmonton, AB North America’s largest shopping mall is, as Canadians know well, West Edmonton Mall. Home to more than 800 stores and services including nine attractions, two hotels and more than 100 dining venues, West Edmonton Mall was the prototype for mixed-use entertainment facilities.

The mall – a concept inspired by the traditional urban bazaars of Persia, where shopping and entertainment were plentiful and operated in tandem in order to fulfill a variety of consumer needs all in one place – is visited by approximately 30.8 million people annually, making it Alberta’s number one tourist attraction.

The West Edmonton Mall is in the midst of an extensive renovation and enhancement project that is bringing a chic, modern design to all 500,000-square-metres. Two gathering areas within have been enhanced with unique, suspended creations by renowned Canadian sculptor Pascale Girardin and both of the mall’s fountain features have been redeveloped with soft seating added around them.



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P L A N Y O U R T R I P ,

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MALL OF AMERICABloomington, MNSince opening its doors in 1992, Mall of America no doubt influenced the way people think about shopping centres. Nearly two decades later, Mall of America welcomes tens of millions of visitors each year. In fact, it is one of the top tourist destinations in the U.S. and is known around the world.

Playing host to more than 400 events a year, people visit for everything from concerts to celebrity appearances to fashion shows. Better yet, the attraction is committed to sustainable energy initiatives through best operational practices, cutting-edge technology and long-term investments. For example, Mall of America does not use a central heating system; instead, 21 degrees Celsius is maintained year-round with passive solar energy from 1.9 kilometres of skylights and heat is generated from lighting, store fixtures and, yes, body heat.

AMERICAN DREAM East Rutherford, NJAmerican Dream is the lifestyle and retail destination in East Rutherford, New Jersey. Opened in October of this year, guests are able to experience the indoor Nickelodeon Universe Theme Park and DreamWorks Water Park, two-plus hectares of fully-enclosed family amusement experience; Big SNOW Ski and Snowboard Park, North America’s first indoor snow sports centre; the Ice Rink, an NHL-size skating and hockey facility; Angry Birds 18-hole Miniature Golf experience; and, of course, plenty of shopping.

Spanning nearly one-million-square metres, American Dream houses hundreds of entertainment options such as the Coca-Cola experience, the LEGOLAND Discovery Center & SEA LIFE Aquarium; CMX Luxury Movie Theatre; Kidzania; American Dream Observation Wheel; and Performing Art Center.

American Dream also hosts more than 100 dining and specialty food offerings including 15-plus full-service restaurants. •CT


Feeling flight shame but unsure if carbon offsets are the way to go? Canadian Traveller takes a closer look at how carbon offsets work and asks if we should stop travelling altogether for the good of the planet.

YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL; HOWEVER, you’re also becoming increasingly aware of the impact travel has on the environment. These days, balancing

our passion for exploration with our commitment to the health of the planet is feeling increasingly paradoxical.

The people of Sweden, homeland of teenage climate activist Greta Thunberg, have a word for that feeling: “flygskam” or, in English, “flight shame.” And it’s not without good reason.

According to the International Civil Aviation Organization’s (ICAO) calculator, an economy class flight from Toronto to Paris emits an estimated 0.65 tonnes of carbon dioxide (CO2) per passenger, which represents a whopping eight per cent of the carbon produced annually by the average person living in a G20 country. That’s a lot of carbon from just one person travelling on a sold-out flight. If you’re flying business class, carbon emissions per passenger per kilometre travelled are about three times higher.

Perhaps the environmental shame that might come with booking international flights has inspired you to look into buying carbon credits, only to find that realm daunting and largely intangible. How does giving one organization money magically remove the carbon emissions generated by your overseas flight from the atmosphere anyway? And didn’t you read some-thing about how some of these organizations weren’t legitimate a couple of years back? Are carbon offsets effective, or just something to make us feel better?

And if not carbon offsets, what are your other options? Should we be driving or taking the train across long distances? Should we avoid

Offset your travel

CARBON FOOTPRINT

HOW TO


flying altogether in these critical times?It’s a lot to consider before you’re wheels

up again. To help, Canadian Traveller took a closer look at carbon offsets and the effects of flying on climate change, as well as your options for alternatives.

PURCHASING CARBON OFFSETS“A lot of the time, people don’t actually know what happens when they offset their carbon emissions,” says Julia Zhu of atmosfair, a non-profit organization with a mission to help decarbonize the world.So let’s start with the basics. What is carbon offsetting, exactly?

As it turns out, carbon offsetting is how we define the economic “tool” first established back in the early 1990s as part of the Kyoto Protocol. This tool can be applied a number of ways, but the general idea is that people or organizations contribute money to fund renewable energy projects.

As Zhu explains it, carbon offsetting organizations “counterbalance” emissions created by your flight by saving it from being created somewhere else in the world. It is by no means a removal of the CO2 you create with your flight, but more like compensation for it; carbon offsetting doesn’t reduce emissions, it just neutralizes your impact.

Which brings us to our next question: What kind of carbon offsetting organizations or projects should you support?

As Zhu puts it, you should look for organizations that support small scale projects affecting rural households in developing nations.

“With [small scale, rural projects], the reality is that if we don’t subsidize them, they won’t exist,” Zhu says. “That’s why

we have a lot of projects involving efficient cook stoves and reducing firewood use. In supporting those kinds of projects, you’re actually helping to keep more CO2 from being released into the atmosphere.”

Zhu also recommends ensuring that the organization you support follows the Clean Development Mechanism (CDM) or the Gold Standard.

“We see the CDM as a very important standard in terms of scientific methodology,” Zhu explains. “It offers a very solid framework and all the project auditors there are credited by the U.N.”

Meanwhile, the Gold Standard is the program for non-governmental emission reductions projects developed by the Gold Standard Foundation. It was designed to ensure that carbon credits are real and verifable, and that projects make measurable contributions to sustainable development.

Now that we understand how carbon offsetting works and which organizations or projects are best to support, we’re still left with the big question: considering carbon offsetting doesn’t remove CO2 from the atmosphere, would it be best if we simply stopped travelling all together?

“You should definitely travel smarter,” Zhu says. “That is something we can all agree on. We do think mass tourism, where people fly long distances for a short period of time, is not sustainable. We don’t think it’s feasible to tell people not to travel, but if it’s possible to stay somewhere longer, or combine two trips into one, that’s one way to make it more sustainable. Considering alternative destinations that are closer so you can drive or take the train would also be an option. We do have to think about the way we travel without stopping travel all together.” •CT

TRAVELLING SUSTAINABLYCarbon offsets and smarter transportation decisions aren’t the only ways you can travel more responsibly for the good of our planet. Follow this checklist to help ensure you’re doing your part to make travel more sustainable.

�Travel with a reusable water bottle�Stay in eco-friendly or

green accommodations �Choose destinations that don’t

attract throngs of tourists�Book a zero-waste trip�Cycle to explore a city

rather than take a taxi�Never use the hotel laundry

as hotels typically wash each guest's laundry separately �Take partially-used shampoos,

soaps and lotions with you. Or better yet, avoid using them at all. �Stay on marked trails�Buy locally


AS I SIT HERE WRITING THIS, I FIGURE I'll throw it on one more time for inspiration. Ghostbusters, that is; the sci-fi comedy classic I’ve seen countless times since it, and I, came into the world in 1984. In fact, the movie was released the weekend after I was born and, as I like to imagine it, that means it somehow imprinted on me in

those first days of our shared new existence.I can’t recall when I first saw Ghostbusters, but

whenever it was, the visuals and experience of the movie burned deep into my consciousness. You can’t be a young, impressionable, ghostbusting enthusiast watching both Ghostbusters and its 1989 sequel, rewound and re-watched on VHS time and time again, without the city of New York also settling into a special place in your psyche. From the opening shot of the New York Public Library to the Statue of Liberty walking the streets, the Big Apple loomed large in the world of the Ghostbusters.

To me, eating Kraft Dinner and wearing Ghostbusters pyjamas in the playroom from my home in rural Quebec, New York City was mind-blowing. And despite all the great shots of Central Park, gargoyles, the iconic taxi cabs, Fifth Avenue, Columbia University and Tavern on the Green, one location stood out in my mind: the firehouse. The Ghostbusters’ headquarters. What with its firepole and iconic Ghostbusters logo sign out front.

As I sit here sipping tea from my Ghostbusters mug, I’m remembering the Christmas my parents bought my brother and I the toy version of the Ghostbusters’ fire-house. To this day, it remains one of the greatest gifts I’ve ever received. I mean, you could make your action figures slide down the pole and pour slime through the roof. It even had the containment unit! Incredible stuff. Countless hours were spent playing with the thing for years.

So when I finally found myself in New York City in 2016, I knew I had to try and get to the real deal. I was in town for work and my schedule was going to be packed, but I figured I’d find a moment to steal away and see the 1903 Beaux-Arts style building that houses Hook & Ladder Company 8 for myself.

Time was tight. I got up early on the day I was flying

out, set to make my pilgrimage. I grabbed a cab from Manhattan out to 14 North Moore Street in Tribeca. Ray Parker Jr.'s theme song played in my head the whole way. The ride cost me about $30 USD, but I didn’t care. It would all be worth it to see Ray, Peter, Egon and Winston’s headquarters with my own two eyes. And I did. I saw the place. But I saw the place covered top-to-bottom in scaffolding.

It turned out the building was badly in need of work and was undergoing a $6-million renovation. With noth-ing to see, it was another $60 USD through traffic to the airport. I was disappointed, but confident I’d be back.

Two years later, I was, this time readier for the important mission. I even brought along a Ghostbusters T-shirt to wear. My hotel wasn’t close to Hook & Ladder 8, but I love exploring cities on foot, so the estimated hour and 45 minutes it was going to take me to walk there seemed like a nice stroll through one of the world’s greatest cities.

To quote Peter Venkman,”I loved my plan and was excited to be a part of it.”

It soon became apparent it wasn’t a great plan. Once again, I was there for work, so all I’d brought with me were dress shoes. I’d not considered footwear.

The blisters started about 30 minutes away from the firehouse. They puffed up and popped quickly. No matter. If the Ghostbusters could lug their proton packs up 22 storeys to blast Zuul and save the day, I could suffer through the pain to get a glimpse of my pop culture pagoda.

And, dear reader, I made it. My feet were aching. The blood was squishing in my socks. But I made it. There it was in front of me: The Ghostbusters’ Firehouse Headquarters. Covered top-to-bottom in scaffolding. Two years later and the renovations weren’t yet finished. Time for another pricey cab ride away from the place, having seen nothing at all.

Who you gonna call?My suggestion would be the iconic venue you plan

on visiting to, you know, make sure you can actually see it before going halfway across the city, twice. Or at least check online. I know I will next time I try my luck at seeing Hook & Ladder 8. And there will be a next time. •CT

Two pilgrimages to Hook & Ladder 8Ghostbusters may have left an indelible mark on ZACH VANASSE’s childhood, but it failed to inform his ability to plan ahead.

confessions


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SUN SAFETYIn summer, it’s easy to keep sun safety top of mind. In winter, less so. Whether you’re travelling south, adventuring overwater or in the snow, here are six ways to protect yourself from the sun – that won’t leave your hands slick with sunscreen. BY JENNIFER HUBBERT

1. BEACH TO BOARDWALKLightweight, practical and durable, Tilley hats are stylish travel companions. We especially love that the TOY1 Audrey Straw Sun Hat is constructed of UPF 50+ certified fabric. With a wide brim and universally flattering classic design, it’s an accessory you can wear from the beach to the boardwalk. Find it at tilley.com; $125. Also available in black or white.

2. GET SOME COLOUR, SKIP THE BURNCoolibar, a retailer of protective sun apparel was the first clothing company to receive the Skin Cancer Foun-dation’s Seal of Recommendation. We’re coveting the Women’s Grassi Sun Bandana UPF 50+, a versatile accessory that can be fashioned as a head wrap, face mask or neck band. Shop it in various patterns at cooli-bar.com; $31.

3. SHELTER MEParents know that if they’re going to survive a full day at the beach, the littles need some form of shady respite. Sure, you can rent a beach umbrella…if they’re available and if you’re willing to stake out a spot at first light. Instead, consider travelling with a portable sun shelter. The Eddie Bauer Sun Shelter weighs 2.6 kg (5.8 lbs), compacts into a carrying bag and is constructed as a single collapsible piece. In other words, it acts like a tent without the headache of assembling multiple poles. Find it at eddiebauer.ca; $165.

4. HANDS OFF!I think we can all agree that applying sunscreen is a drag, which is why we’re big fans of sunscreen sticks. Those who prefer a mineral sunscreen (which is friend-lier to sensitive marine environments and our own skin, too) might be interested to learn that earlier this year, Canadian-manufactured LASPA introduced its SPF50 Ultra Sun Protection Stick. It’s a moisturizing face and neck sunscreen made of plant-based ingredients, and it is hypoallergenic, fragrance-free and reef safe. Order it from laspanaturals.com; $18.

5. COLD SWEATSPracticing sun safety in a snowscape is not black and white. Slip on Original BUFF® Neckwear in pretty new prints (we prefer Tephra, pictured). These soft tubu-lars are seamless and made of REPREVE® Performance Microfiber that wicks away moisture while protecting up to 50 UPF. Four-way stretch means multifunctional styling so you can wear them any one of 12 ways. Peruse Original Neckwear at buff.com/ca; $25.

6. SUIT UPThe bikini has been a swimwear mainstay since the mid-1960s. But let’s be honest: In order to avoid a sunburn while wearing an itsy bitsy, teenie weenie bikini requires more due diligence than we’re willing to expend some days. Enter, the Unisuit by Cabana Life. Okay, the name might not be sexy, but the design is. Long sleeves offer protection from the sun, as does the UPF 50 mate-rial it’s constructed of. This style runs true to size. Shop the Unisuit at cabanalife.com; $152.


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The story of the Civil Rights Movement exists in countless books, but the opportunity to visit the very places that shaped our nation are few. At the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, you can see how the lessons of our

past are fueling the hopes for tomorrow. All right here at The Dinner Table of the South.

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