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Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence of Random Currents Lev Kaplan (Tulane University) In collaboration with Alex Dahlen and Eric Heller (Harvard) Linghang Ying and Zhouheng Zhuang (Tulane) October 11, 2011 1 Rogue11: Dresden

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Page 1: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave

Statistics in the Presence of Random

Currents

Lev Kaplan

(Tulane University)

In collaboration with

Alex Dahlen and Eric Heller (Harvard)

Linghang Ying and Zhouheng Zhuang (Tulane)

October 11 2011 1 Rogue11 Dresden

Talk Outline

Linear rogue wave formation

Mechanism Refraction from current eddies

Combining refraction with stochasticity

The ldquofreak indexrdquo

Implications for extreme wave statistics

Introducing wave nonlinearity

Wave statistics in 4th order nonlinear equation

Scaling with parameters describing sea state

Can linear and nonlinear effects work in concert

October 11 2011 2 Rogue11 Dresden

Focus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity

v) by random current eddies (current speed urms ltlt v)

For deep water surface gravity waves with current

Current correlated on scale (typical eddy size)

Ray picture justified if k gtgt 1

Rogue Waves Refraction Picture

x

x

dk dxdt dtx k

krugkkr )()(

October 11 2011 3 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Parallel incoming rays encountering pair of eddies

Effect similar to potential dip in particle mechanics

Focusing when all paths in a given neighborhood coalesce at a single point (caustic) producing infinite ray density

Different groups of paths coalesce at different points (ldquobad lensrdquo analogy)

October 11 2011 4 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Generic result ldquocusprdquo singularity followed by two lines of ldquofoldrdquo caustics

At each y after cusp singularity we have infinite density at some values of x

Phase space picture

October 11 2011 5 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

First singularities form after

Further evolution exponential proliferation of caustics

Tendrils decorate original branches

Branch statistics described by single distance scale d

23

rmsud

v

October 11 2011 6 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 2: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Talk Outline

Linear rogue wave formation

Mechanism Refraction from current eddies

Combining refraction with stochasticity

The ldquofreak indexrdquo

Implications for extreme wave statistics

Introducing wave nonlinearity

Wave statistics in 4th order nonlinear equation

Scaling with parameters describing sea state

Can linear and nonlinear effects work in concert

October 11 2011 2 Rogue11 Dresden

Focus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity

v) by random current eddies (current speed urms ltlt v)

For deep water surface gravity waves with current

Current correlated on scale (typical eddy size)

Ray picture justified if k gtgt 1

Rogue Waves Refraction Picture

x

x

dk dxdt dtx k

krugkkr )()(

October 11 2011 3 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Parallel incoming rays encountering pair of eddies

Effect similar to potential dip in particle mechanics

Focusing when all paths in a given neighborhood coalesce at a single point (caustic) producing infinite ray density

Different groups of paths coalesce at different points (ldquobad lensrdquo analogy)

October 11 2011 4 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Generic result ldquocusprdquo singularity followed by two lines of ldquofoldrdquo caustics

At each y after cusp singularity we have infinite density at some values of x

Phase space picture

October 11 2011 5 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

First singularities form after

Further evolution exponential proliferation of caustics

Tendrils decorate original branches

Branch statistics described by single distance scale d

23

rmsud

v

October 11 2011 6 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 3: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Focus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity

v) by random current eddies (current speed urms ltlt v)

For deep water surface gravity waves with current

Current correlated on scale (typical eddy size)

Ray picture justified if k gtgt 1

Rogue Waves Refraction Picture

x

x

dk dxdt dtx k

krugkkr )()(

October 11 2011 3 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Parallel incoming rays encountering pair of eddies

Effect similar to potential dip in particle mechanics

Focusing when all paths in a given neighborhood coalesce at a single point (caustic) producing infinite ray density

Different groups of paths coalesce at different points (ldquobad lensrdquo analogy)

October 11 2011 4 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Generic result ldquocusprdquo singularity followed by two lines of ldquofoldrdquo caustics

At each y after cusp singularity we have infinite density at some values of x

Phase space picture

October 11 2011 5 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

First singularities form after

Further evolution exponential proliferation of caustics

Tendrils decorate original branches

Branch statistics described by single distance scale d

23

rmsud

v

October 11 2011 6 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 4: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Parallel incoming rays encountering pair of eddies

Effect similar to potential dip in particle mechanics

Focusing when all paths in a given neighborhood coalesce at a single point (caustic) producing infinite ray density

Different groups of paths coalesce at different points (ldquobad lensrdquo analogy)

October 11 2011 4 Rogue11 Dresden

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Generic result ldquocusprdquo singularity followed by two lines of ldquofoldrdquo caustics

At each y after cusp singularity we have infinite density at some values of x

Phase space picture

October 11 2011 5 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

First singularities form after

Further evolution exponential proliferation of caustics

Tendrils decorate original branches

Branch statistics described by single distance scale d

23

rmsud

v

October 11 2011 6 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 5: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

How caustics form refraction from current eddies

Generic result ldquocusprdquo singularity followed by two lines of ldquofoldrdquo caustics

At each y after cusp singularity we have infinite density at some values of x

Phase space picture

October 11 2011 5 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

First singularities form after

Further evolution exponential proliferation of caustics

Tendrils decorate original branches

Branch statistics described by single distance scale d

23

rmsud

v

October 11 2011 6 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 6: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Refraction from weak random currents

First singularities form after

Further evolution exponential proliferation of caustics

Tendrils decorate original branches

Branch statistics described by single distance scale d

23

rmsud

v

October 11 2011 6 Rogue11 Dresden

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 7: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Refraction from weak random currents

Of course singularities washed out on wavelength

scale

Qualitative structure independent of

dispersion relation (eg ~ k2 for Schroumldinger vs

~ k12 for ocean waves)

details of random current field

Can calculate distribution of branch strengths fall off

with distance etc (LK PRL 2002)

October 11 2011 7 Rogue11 Dresden

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 8: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Analogies with other physical systems Electron flow in nanostructures (10-6 m)

Microwave resonators Stoumlckmann group (1 m)

Long-range ocean acoustics Tomsovic et al (20 km)

Twinkling of starlight Berry (2000 km)

Gravitational lensing Tyson (109 light years)

Topinka et al

Nature (2001)

October 11 2011 8 Rogue11 Dresden

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 9: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Microwave scattering experiments

Experimentally observed branched flow

Ray simulation

October 11 2011 9 Rogue11 Dresden

Houmlhmann et al

(PRL 2010)

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 10: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Branching pattern for tsunami waves

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 10

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 11: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Problems with refraction picture of

rogue waves Assumes single-wavelength and unidirectional initial

conditions which are unrealistic and unstable (Dysthe)

Singularities washed out only on wavelength scale

Predicts regular sequence of extreme waves every time

No predictions for actual wave heights or probabilities

Solution replace incoming plane wave with random

initial spectrum

Finite range of wavelengths and directions

October 11 2011 11 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 12: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea Singularities washed out by randomness in initial

conditions k

ldquoHot spotsrdquo of enhanced average energy density remain as

reminders of where caustics would have been

October 11 2011 12 Rogue11 Dresden

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 13: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Smearing of caustics for stochastic

incoming sea

Competing effects of focusing

and initial stochasticity

kx = initial wave vector spread

kx = wave vector change due to

refraction

October 11 2011 13 Rogue11 Dresden

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 14: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Quantifying residual effect of caustics

the ldquofreak indexrdquo Define freak index = kx kx

Equivalently =

= kx k = initial directional spread

= typical deflection before formation of first cusp

~ (urms v)23 ~ d

Most dangerous well-collimated sea impinging on

strong random current field ( 1)

Hot spots corresponding to first smooth cusps have

highest energy density

ydydyy )()(1)( 2

October 11 2011 14 Rogue11 Dresden

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 15: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Typical ray calculation for ocean waves

= 10ordm = 20ordm

October 11 2011 15 Rogue11 Dresden

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 16: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Implications for Rogue Wave Statistics

Simulations (using Schrodinger equation) long-time average and regions of extreme events

average gt3 SWH gt22 SWH

2

1 SWH=significant wave

height 4 crest to trough

October 11 2011 16 Rogue11 Dresden

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 17: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Calculation Rogue Waves

No currents Rayleigh height distribution (random

superposition of waves)

With currents Superpose locally Gaussian wave statistics

on pattern of ldquohotcold spotsrdquo caused by refraction

Local height distribution

is position-dependent variance of the water

elevation (proportional to ray density high in focusing

regions low in defocusing regions)

Total wave height distribution

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

2 2( ) ( )exp( 2 )IP h h I h I

I r

( ) ( ) ( )IP h P h f I dI

Nov 11 2011 17 Rogue11

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 18: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Calculation Rogue Waves

Thus calculate wave height probability by combining

Rayleigh distribution

Distribution f(I) which describes ray dynamics and

depends on scattering strength (freak index)

Rogue wave forecasting

2 2( ) ( ) exp( 2 )P h h h

Nov 11 2011 18 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 19: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Analytics limit of small freak index

For ltlt1 f(I) well approximated by χ2 distribution of

n ~ --2 degrees of freedom (mean 1width ~ )

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

2

exp 2 )P(h x SWH) ( x I) f(I dI

Nov 11 2011 19 Rogue11

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 20: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Analytics limit of small freak index

Perturbative limit for x2 ltlt1 (x ltlt n14)

Asymptotic limit for x 3 gtgt1 (x gtgt n 32)

4 2 241 exp 2P(h x SWH) [ (x x )] ( x )

n

2 4

2

2( )(2 )

( 2)

n

n

nxP(h x SWH) K nx

n

( 1)2( )exp 2

( 2)

nnxP(h x SWH) ( nx)

n

Nov 11 2011 20 Rogue11

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 21: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Numerical Simulations Incoming sea with v=78 ms (T=10 s =156 m)

Random current with rms velocity urms = 05 ms and

correlation =20 km

Dimensionless parameters

ltlt 1 (ray limit)

~ (urms v)23 ltlt 1 (small-angle scattering)

= spreading angle = 5 to 25deg

= = freak index ( =35 to 07)

October 11 2011 21 Rogue11 Dresden

f (xy) (xy)u

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 22: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Wave height distribution for ocean waves

October 11 2011 22 Rogue11 Dresden

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 23: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Numerical test of N vs γ

October 11 2011 23 Rogue11 Dresden

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 24: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Probability enhancement over

Rayleigh predictions

urms = 05 ms v=78 ms

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 24

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 25: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Extension to nonlinear waves

NLS with current

where

21 1 1| | 0

4 8 2t xx yy xiA A A A A U A

0 0( ) ~ ( )i k x i t

x y t A x y t e

October 11 2011 25 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 26: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 26

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 27: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Extension to nonlinear waves

Key result for moderate steepness full wave height distribution again reasonably approximated by K-distribution with N degrees of freedom

Wave height probability depends on single parameter N ( Rayleigh as N rarr infin )

How does N depend on wave steepness incoming angular spread spectral width etc

October 11 2011 27 Rogue11 Dresden

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 28: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 28

Steepness ε = k (mean crest height)

Δθ = 26ordm

Δk k = 01

u = 0

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 29: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

N as function of incoming angular spread for fixed steepness and frequency spread

October 11 2011 29 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 30: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

N as function of incoming frequency spread for fixed steepness and angular spread

October 11 2011 30 Rogue11 Dresden

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 31: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

N as function of steepness for fixed incoming angular spread and frequency spread

October 11 2011 31 Rogue11 Dresden

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 32: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Finally combine currents and nonlinearity

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 32

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 33: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Summary

Linear refraction of stochastic Gaussian sea produces lumpy energy density

Skews formerly Rayleigh distribution of wave heights

Importance of refraction quantified by freak index

Spectacular effects in tail even for small

Very similar wave height distribution in the presence of moderate nonlinearity

Even more dramatic results obtained when random currents and nonlinearity are acting in concert

Refraction may serve as trigger for full non-linear evolution

October 11 2011 33 Rogue11 Dresden

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34

Page 34: Linear and Nonlinear Rogue Wave Statistics in the Presence ...lkaplan/Kaplan Rogue11.pdfFocus on linear refraction of incoming wave (velocity v) by random current eddies (current speed

Thank you

Ying Zhuang Heller and Kaplan

Nonlinearity 24 R67 (2011)

October 11 2011 Rogue11 Dresden 34