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Photo Credit: Greg de St. Maurice,” Seollongtang breakfast, Seoul.”

LEADERSHIP MESSAGE FROM VICE PRESIDENT, GREG DE ST. MAURICE Dear Members, The excitement in Food Studies was palpable at this summer’s joint annual meeting with AFHVS in Madison inside and outside of the conference rooms. The buzz was about more than the beautiful campus and the plentiful cheese curds and microbrews: this was a congregation of like minds energized by a sense of community, shared understandings, and intellectual debates. There are signs that Food Studies is being recognized as a legitimate academic field that attracts students, readers, and audiences. As we have grown—more than doubled in size since the early 2000s—the universities most of us have been affiliated with for work and study offer courses that could be categorized as Food Studies, whether they focus on food systems, food history, the anthropology of food, or gastronomy. Several academic presses have book series focused on food and agricultural issues, with ASFS members as editors and authors. The economic dimension of this is clear: I’m pretty sure we’ve all received spam messages from addresses we don’t know inviting us to participate in “Food Studies” for-profit conferences or to serve on the editorial boards of food related journals whose names and editors are unfamiliar. ASFS members “on the market” (to borrow the fraught phrase from economics), have a different perspective about the degree to which Food Studies is valued, especially when it comes to financial support and legitimization from academic institutions. While a greater number of courses related to food are being offered, we aren’t seeing a great number openings for tenure-track / tenured Food Studies positions as such.

In this vein, ASFS, along with AFHVS and CAFS has received the report about the results of 2017 Qualtrics survey conducted by Anne Bellows, Rick Welsh, Maize Ludden, and Briana Alfaro that offers further insight into the position of Food Studies within contemporary academia. You can access this report on the members only portion of the website and I would like to highlight some of the most important findings here. The survey and report pay particular attention to issues surrounding tenure and the valuation of publication in Food Studies journals. The report contains positive news: almost 3/4 of respondents to the survey (from the three organizations) are currently in tenured or tenure-track positions and the percentage of those who have been successful in their promotion and tenure reviews is 97%. Because the majority of these positions are outside of Food Studies, however, 72% of those who have gone through a review felt that the committee members lacked familiarity with Food Studies and our journals. Strikingly, only 7.14% of ASFS members felt their promotion and tenure committee reviewers were familiar with journals in the field. Related to this is the issue of impact factor. While respondents to the survey ranked Food, Culture, and Society and the Agriculture and Human Values highly, both journals have low impact factors (.778 and 2.33) and other journals in the field don’t have impact factors at all. As survey respondents noted, we do not

— Leadership Message — 2019 Conference CFP — 2018 Conference Debrief — 2018 ASFS Presidential Address — 2018 ASFS Award Winners — ASFS Local Event Grant Updates — About the Social Media Coordinator — Member Publications — Announcing Two New Doctorates — Member News — Announcements

CONTENTS

ASFS NEWSLETTER September 2018

website: food-culture.org | twitter: @asfs_org | facebook.com/groups/asfs.org| of 15

want to limit our evaluation of a journal’s value to its impact factor, but 1/3 of those surveyed rated impact factor as “important” to their promotion and tenure reviews. The FCS editorial team is in contact with publishers Taylor & Francis about strategies for the journal to increase its impact factor so that it better reflects the quality of the content. As the 2017 survey that Bellows, Welsh, Ludden, and Alfaro conducted shows, as individuals we may have different disciplinary affiliations, but we see Food Studies and ASFS as a kind of special home. Like so much in contemporary times, we shouldn’t take this home for granted, especially not if we are teaching students enrolled in Food Studies programs. In this issue of the newsletter, you will read about recent and upcoming events and initiatives organized or sponsored by ASFS. As you do, take note of the diversity in our intellectual community, as is evident in the range of disciplines

represented in the regional grant funded LatinxFoodways in the New South, the topics our 2018 award recipients have focused on, and the opportunities our 2019 conference in Anchorage present for engaging with new landscapes, issues, and people. To support students hoping to attend this conference, the ASFS board has approved 20 travel grants of $500. And this fall marks the launch of the ASFS Paper Incubator project, with three groups of scholars at different points in their careers workshopping papers with the eventual goal of publication. We on the board strive to improve the position of Food Studies scholarship—and the people who do it!—through such efforts. We encourage you to participate in these programs and to help create a vision for the organization going forward. Please contact any of us with your ideas for ways that we can further strengthen our community.

Greg de St. Maurice is Associate Professor of Human Life Science at Osaka City University.

2019 CONFERENCE CFP #FOODSTUDIES19 ASFS/AFHVS ANNUAL MEETING AND CONFERENCE, JUNE 26-29, 2019 Finding Home in the “Wilderness”: Explorations in Belonging in Circumpolar Food Systems Conference website: uaa.alaska.edu/asfs-afhvs-2019 The University of Alaska Anchorage, in collaboration with Alaska Pacific University, is pleased to host the 2019 Joint Annual Meetings and Conference of the Association for the Study of Food and Society (ASFS) and the Agriculture, Food, and Human Values Society (AFHVS). Alaska is a changing landscape of modern diversity, evident in indigenous cultures that have called this circumpolar region home for thousands of years, frequent urban turnover, and rapidly growing immigrant populations that contributed to the most diverse census tract in the nation (Farrell 2015). Alaska Native cultures’ presence and contribution in the state is highly valued and particularly important for the food systems concerns. This special relationship between the land and people is also evident in urban and peri-urban settings. As in many other settings with high levels of diversity, Anchorage tackles its food and climatic constraints and opportunities in a complex web of relationships that spans from land management, health and environmental impacts of food production to diverse cultural practices within the rationalizing context of globalization.

The conference theme, Finding Home in the “Wilderness,” invites attendees to critically engage with and problematize the idea of wilderness. We acknowledge the concept of wilderness as a contentious one, influenced by Western notions of separation, dominance, and later, preservation. The conference taking place in the Circumpolar North, and specifically in the diverse, multiethnic urban setting of Anchorage reminds visitors that wilderness is not



something to be sought after on a hiking excursion. Rather, it is a factor that may influence our food practices, such as the harvest of wild foods, economic and climatic constraints on production, and issues around access, storage, utilization, and distribution. Additionally, philosophical conceptualizations of nature exist in a specific power hierarchy, where rational and neoliberal systemic approaches push against traditional and ecological ways of knowing that problematize the distinction between “wilderness” and “civilization.” We invite attendees to consider our conference’s unique location through metaphors such as frozen foods and wilderness in the context of worldwide food systems issues: the relationship between tradition, innovation and technology, gridlocked food policy discussions, ecological concerns, and reflections on our identities and belonging—especially as complicated by migration. The challenge of getting food on the table is a universal one that requires innovative solutions at the

local, national, regional and global levels. Finding nourishment in this wilderness is no easy task but we search nevertheless. A Native-serving institution, UAA has over 17,000 students and offers over 100 programs. With its focus on diversity, international and intercultural initiatives, UAA is a central institution in Alaska. UAA is connected to 250 miles of trails with woods, mountain vistas, and ocean views, yet is also located in an urban center, Anchorage, a.k.a. Alaska’s largest village. This conference is hosted in partnership with Alaska Pacific University, an Anchorage-based liberal arts university with a mission to provide a world-class, hands-on, culturally responsive educational experience in collaboration with our students, communities, and Tribal partners. Campuses are located on the traditional homelands of the Dena'ina and Ahtna Athabascan, Alutiiq/Sugpiaq, and Eyak peoples.

Photo credit: Greg de St. Maurice, “Offal soup, Bangkok.”

SUBMISSIONS AFHVS/ASFS support scholarship on a wide variety of topics at their conferences, and hence we encourage but do not require that works submitted speak directly to this year’s theme. Submissions are invited from scholars, practitioners, activists, and others working in food systems and culture. Submission areas include a wide range of disciplinary and inter/transdisciplinary topics, including but not limited to those listed below:

• Food systems (from production to consumption) • Food business, enterprise, and entrepreneurship • Food marketplaces (informal economies,

subsistence trade, etc.) • Food, culture, folklore, and language

• Food in media, art, design, and technology • Food ethics, justice • Food access, security, and sovereignty • Food and migration • Food policy and governance • Food and education • Food science • Nutrition and dietetics • Agri-food systems and the environment • Food and health disparities • Food and equity (race, class, gender, etc.) • Subsistence foods • Alaska and the Circumpolar North

Submit an abstract at bit.ly/submitfoodstudies19

Please direct questions to [email protected].



SUBMISSION PROCEDURE

• Submission system is open now (bit.ly/submitfoodstudies19).

• Early submission system closes: October 21, 2018 • Late submission system closes: January 6, 2019

All proposals must include:

1. type of submission (e.g., individual paper, panel discussion, sensory session, poster session);

2. title of paper, panel, poster; 3. submitter's name,

organizational affiliation, and status (e.g., undergraduate, graduate student, postdoc, faculty, independent scholar, food systems worker)

4. submitter's email address; 5. names, email addresses, and organizational

affiliations of co-authors or co-organizers; 6. abstract of 250 or fewer words that describes

the proposed presentation; 7. indication of any special AV/technology

needs; 8. select topical category(ies) for your work

(select at least one, no more than three) 9. any attachments must include the submitter’s

name in the title For individual papers: Papers will be grouped with similarly themed topics to the best of the program organizer's abilities. Please submit a single abstract along with contact information.

For panels: Panels are pre-organized groups of no more than 4 papers, with a chair and discussant (may be the same person). Please include a panel abstract as well as abstracts for each individual paper. Conference organizers will make the utmost effort to preserve panels but reserve the right to move papers with consultation from panel organizer. For sensory sessions: Sensory sessions seek to demonstrate the ways in which food studies engages us through our senses to understand and experience food in new ways. This is also an opportunity to share approaches to experiential learning. Pedagogical sensory sessions should not only talk about sensory engagement, but also propose interactive learning opportunities. Share your favorite hands-on lab activity or a tasting exercise that you use in your classes or research in these sessions. For poster proposals: Please submit an abstract as described in individual papers Notifications of early acceptance will be provided by November 10, 2018 to ensure enough time for travel arrangements. Please note that summers are high season in Alaska and the earlier you make your arrangements the more affordable they will be. Second round of (final) submissions are due on January 6, 2019, with final acceptances sent out on January 30, 2019. Attendees are expected to register by March 30, 2019. For inclusion on the final program, at least one author from each submission must be registered as an attendee. Multiple submissions from an author are allowed.

Photo credit: Greg de St. Maurice, “Dried shrimp at a market, Bangkok.”



TENTATIVE SCHEDULE Wednesday, June 26 All Day Conference Begins! Check-In and Registration Open All Day Pre-Conference Field Trips

- Urban Homestead workshops at the Museum

- Farm Tour - Food Tasting Tour

- Food Writing Workshop with Julia O’Malley Evening Official Conference Welcome Reception at

the Anchorage Museum (What Why How We Eat Exhibit)

Thursday, June 27 All Day Registration Open + Concurrent Sessions Evening Mountain View Farmers’ Market visit

Keynote & Banquet at the Alaska Native Heritage Center Friday, June 28 All Day Registration Open All Day Concurrent Sessions Morning AHV and FCS Journal Board Meetings Lunch Joint AFHVS/ASFS Business Meeting Afternoon Individual Association Business Meetings: AFHVS/ASFS Evening Turkish Picnic dinner with Store Outside Your Door and

Harvesting Alaska Saturday, June 29 Morning Concurrent Sessions Lunch Presidential Addresses and Awards Presentation

Photo credit: Greg de St. Maurice, “Hot sake with broiled trout fin, Japan.”

CONFERENCE PROGRAMMING COMMITTEE

• Molly Anderson, Prof. of Food Studies (Middlebury College)

• Jennifer Berg, Director of Graduate Food Studies Program (New York University)

• Rachel Black, Visiting Assistant Prof. of Anthropology (Connecticut College)

• Daniel Block, Prof. of Geography (Chicago State University)

• Tracey Burke, Prof. of Social Work (UAA) - local committee

• Sally Carraher, Assistant Prof of Anthropology (UAA) - local committee

• Katie Dentzman, Postdoctoral Research Associate, Crop & Soil Sciences (Washington State University)

• Iklim Göksel, Independent Scholar of Rhetoric, Gender and Turkish Studies – local committee

• Gary Ferguson, Consultant (Healthy Communities) - local committee

• Bree Kessler, Assistant Professor, Department of Health Sciences and Center for Community Engagement and Learning (UAA) - local committee

• Zeynep Kiliç, Associate Prof. of Sociology (UAA) - local committee

• Sarah Lewis, Assistant Professor of Extension, Family & Community, Development Program (UAF Cooperative Extension Service, Juneau District) - local committee

• Rachael Miller, Assistant Prof. of Business (Alaska Pacific University) - local committee

• Marcy Ostrom, Center for Sustaining Agriculture and Natural Resources (Washington State University)

• Rebecca Shenton, AFHVS administrator • Elizabeth Snyder, Associate Prof. of Public

Health (UAA) - local committee



2018 CONFERENCE DEBRIEF, FROM MIKE BELL & MICHELLE MILLER To the more than 500 attendees, volunteers, and staff that made this year’s AFHVS/ASFS/SAFN conference sing, thank you! The meetings were primarily self-funded through registration fees, supplemented with support from publishers and local sponsors. Our academic community extended its reach beyond student support to involve farming and food professionals who otherwise would have been unable to attend. This deepened our discussions and raised the profile of on-going participatory action research. People from 39 states, Native Nations, Canada, Mexico, and at least ten other countries participated this year. We hope to have started a new tradition of acknowledging the territory of Native Nations at our events. Volunteers were central to the event’s success. The photographic essay on farming and food in the Driftless was a volunteered show. The field trips, the local food, the young professionals event, the book store and signings, the reception and Friday night party, the LGBTQ event, and the special sessions were volunteer-driven. Thank you to all who donated labor.

We recognize the exceptional conference support from dissertator Amanda McMillian Lequieu. She patiently accommodated and carefully organized more than 400 individual papers, presentations, and posters. The conference program and the full session abstracts are available as publications on ResearchGate and Academia, should you want to use them to as a reference to agroecology’s emerging edge. (Search on "agroecological prospect"). We also want to recognize Ann Feist, Patty Thompson, and the staff at Extension Conference Services. We met more than twenty times over nine months so that we could organize and budget this complex event in such a way as to make the most of it. We are working with the societies to keep track of key lessons learned this year to assist future hosts. Please consider stepping into this awesome opportunity. Thank you for the opportunity to host, and to raise the topic of the Agroecological Prospect: The Politics of Integrating Values, Food, and Farming. Alaska in 2019!

Photo credits: Emily Contois, Katherine Hysmith, Esther Martin-Ullrich & Ashley Rose Young



2018 ASFS PRESIDENTIAL ADDRESS, FROM KRISHNENDU RAY As the 2018 conference’s final act, ASFS President Krishnendu Ray presented his presidential address, “Suffering and Social Theory: Towards an Epistemology of Pleasure and a Post-liberal Politics of Joy.” Included here is an excerpt. The full text will be published in Food, Culture & Society. Most social theory is about suffering and its alleviation. There is a good reason for that. Without recognition of suffering there is no ethics or even a legitimate social project. But singular focus on suffering has alienated scholars from peoples’ investment in joy and pleasure, particularly, poor peoples’ investment in gustatory pleasure. Life is unbearable if we only attend to suffering, and its analytical handmaiden, criticism. I am arguing today for a rebalancing of our portfolio between what Sherry Ortner has characterized as Dark Anthropology and the Anthropology of the Good, or even more acutely, Arjun Appadurai names as the realm of possibilities, against the realm of probabilities. Suspicion is central to critical thinking, “its pervasive presence as mood and method.” The presumed “task of the social critic is… to expose hidden truths and draw out unflattering and counterintuitive meanings that others fail to see.” That is a great mission to have, but a task that often ahistoricizes and de-socializes the critic, who peers down at social reality with god-given acuity. We could get another vantage point if we put the critic in the dirt. In the process scholars might learn to rebalance their critiques with a bit of effervescence. Not abandon the analysis of the causes of sentient suffering but add sources of joy, pleasure and hope. The challenge is how to do that without falling into the traps set up by endless, unsustainable, consumerism and its handmaiden cheery self-help-psychology. What do I think is at stake? This is a moment of great peril for democracies across the world and we have to pivot from being mere critics, to its emotionally invested defenders. We have to develop a shared vocabulary for our current realities and aspirations for equality and intimacy across analytical categories of class, race and ethnicity. We have to build alliances with other people. […] The challenge for theorists at this juncture of revanchist ethno-nationalisms is to thread joy, pleasure and sociability into the weave of our critical theories. What are the best ways to register that bottom-up, sensuous materiality and sociability in theory, without falling into

the gourmand’s trap of pure apolitical pleasure or easy cross-cultural sentimentality? Cultural theorists have focused on how domination works in democracies. But domination is not the only thing that is going on in a democracy. In our case, theorizing pleasure via street food allows us to escape the shadow of the sullen theorist consumed by the question of domination in democracies. We are a group of scholars, teachers, curators, public historians, and advocates dedicated to the study of food in the city (cityfoodresearch.org/about). We focus on street food vending in the Global North and the South, investigating laws and policies to learn how they impact the livelihoods of street vendors, the lives of urban residents, and the liveliness of cities. This work provides room for counter-hegemonic practice. It allows a richer, deeper, description of subjects’ lives and livelihoods. It allows us a tool to intervene and provide some measure of succor to some. Democracies are in peril everywhere and they need the investment of scholars analytically and affectively. As Marshall Berman pointed out, “Reading Capital won’t help us if we don’t also know how to read the signs in the street.” We could get into another mood, another method, if we put the critic in the street, wrestling it out with the rest of the people. At least some of us need to change our tune. In our project we are hoping to make room for an epistemology of joy under the concept of liveliness of street vending and eating, while protecting the livelihoods of vendors. Only time will tell if we succeed in finding that opening. Of course not every one of us should be working on joy and pleasure. That would become unbearably cheery. We do need some sullen analysts amongst us. Thank you for suffering this dour diatribe on joy!



2018 ASFS AWARD WINNERS ASFS Book Award, Single Author | tie | Nir Avieli. Food and Power: A Culinary Ethnography of Israel, University of California Press (2017) & Erika Rappaport. A Thirst for Empire: How Tea Shaped the Modern World, Princeton University Press (2017) ASFS Book Award, Edited Volume | Devon G. Peña, Luz Calvo, Pancho McFarland, and Gabriel R. Valle, Eds. Mexican-Origin Foods, Foodways, and Social Movements, University of Arkansas Press (2017) First Book Award | Margot Finn. Discriminating Taste: How Class Anxiety Created the American Food Revolution, Rutgers University Press (2017) Belasco Prize for Scholarly Excellence | Rachel B. Herrmann. “Rebellion or Riot?: Black Loyalist Food Laws in Sierra Leone,” Slavery & Abolition, 37:4 (2016), 680-703.

Food, Culture & Society Article Award | Andrea Montanari. “The Stinky King: Western Attitudes toward the Durian in Colonial Southeast Asia,” Food, Culture & Society, 20:3 (2017), 395-414. ASFS Award for Food Studies Pedagogy | Christy Shields, The American University, “Food, Culture and Communication” Alex MacIntosh Graduate Prize | Emma McDonell, Indiana University, “Creating the Culinary Frontier: A Critical Examination of Peruvian Chefs’ Narratives of Lost/Discovered Foods” Bill Whit Undergraduate Prize | Michelle Pruneah Kim, University of Toronto, “Complicating Food Rescue: The Dangers of the ‘Feed the Needy’ Rhetoric”

ASFS LOCAL EVENT GRANT UPDATES LATINX FOODWAYS IN THE NEW SOUTH SYMPOSIUM With the support of an ASFS Local Event Grant, Colleen Hammelman and Consuelo Carr Salas hosted the Latinx Foodways in the New South symposium at the University of North Carolina at Charlotte on May 5, 2018. This event began with a multi-disciplinary panel discussion among community leaders and scholars from Charlotte. Panel speakers included:

• Rosalia Torres-Weiner, an artist, activist, and community leader

• Tom Hanchett, a community historian • Karina Gonzalez, health policy coordinator for

Mecklenburg County Public Health • Eric Hoenes del Pinal, Religious Studies, UNC

Charlotte • Consuelo Carr Salas, English and University

Writing Program, UNC Charlotte Each of the speakers shared their experience of how existing regional foodways are impacted by the contributions of Latinx immigrant communities in the South. A common theme among the speakers was a holistic view of the people who comprise the minority immigrant communities in Charlotte. Rosalia Torres-Weiner shared her story as an immigrant to the United States and how she now uses her art as a way to engage new immigrant children by “planting seeds of creativity and watering them with love.” Tom Hanchett

traced five tamales and the real physical changes the city of Charlotte has experienced with newly emerging immigrant communities making a space for themselves. Karina Gonzalez discussed county health initiatives on immigrant diets and food availability in corner stores. She expressed the need to engage with our community members as complex humans who deal with tremendous stresses in their new location in order for nutrition interventions to be effective. Eric Hoenes del Pinal provided the audience with estampas of his experiences with food while moving to and making a home in Charlotte. Consuelo Carr Salas asked the audience to consider how food marketers package and sell narratives of immigrant communities, and to consider what certain images do to the perceptions of cultures. From tales of tamales and images of immigrant hands that feed us, to immigrant diets, the variety of available foods, and food marketing rhetoric, all of the speakers shared stories of how Latinx immigrant foodways have integrated into the southern food landscape over the past decades. Following the panel session, Dr. Steven Alvarez, Assistant Professor of English, at St. John’s University, gave his keynote talk, Taco literacy in the US South: Writing transnational Mexican foodways. He shared how students learn about differences among tacos and how they are visible in landscapes in Kentucky, New York,



and throughout the US. Teaching students about tacos and engaging them in activities outside the classroom provides tremendous insights into “the movements of food, language, and people” in the US. Students are able to learn about the people behind these foods, and their “local connections to Mexican foodways, their preferences and their sense of what Mexican food means culturally as a part of US cuisine.” In short, Steven emphasized the transformative learning that can happen when there is an emphasis placed on immigrant foodways in a writing classroom.

The audience participating in this Cinco de Mayo discussion in person were also joined by online viewers as the symposium was broadcasted live via WebEx. A recording of the symposium can be found at geoearth.uncc.edu/news/2018-06-12/latinx-foodways-new-south. The speakers and symposium hosts are now curating the discussions and ideas into a paper on this topic. We hope to share news of its publication next year.

THE FIRST BIENNIAL CONFERENCE ON FOOD AND COMMUNICATION, UPDATE FROM ANA TOMINC This conference took place in Edinburgh, UK, 6-7 September 2018. Thanks to the support of Queen Margaret University, where the conference took place, and an ASFS Local Event Grant, the conference attracted a large number of attendees from more than 15 countries, representing around 65 institutions. Over the two days, participants discussed numerous issues related to food and communication in various formats, such as presentations, round tables, restaurant pop-ups, and film showing. Plenary speakers were Professor Tania Lewis (Melbourne), whose talk was streamed live; Dr. Stephanie Chambers (Glasgow) and Fiona Richmond of Scotland Food and Drink. MSc Gastronomy students and staff also hosted tasting sessions that were

designed around the question of how we communicate taste. Thanks to the ASFS grant, we managed to sponsor four scholars who travelled from Europe, thus widening access to this event to those who would otherwise not be able to attend. The 2nd Biennial Conference on Food and Communication will take place in 2020, although the venue hasn’t been decided yet. Please email (Dr. Ana Tominc, Chair; [email protected]) if you would like to bid for the next conference organization; the only limitation is that the conference preferably take place in Europe.



ABOUT THE SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR, EMILY CONTOIS As ASFS continues to expand our social media presence and member engagement efforts, we’ve formalized my role as the organization’s social media coordinator. Responsibilities include managing our ASFS Twitter account (@ASFS_org), particularly as we live-tweet and then digitally archive our annual conference. I also moderate our ASFS Facebook group, an online space intended for ASFS member community and for engaging with the public about food studies topics. The executive board and I recognize that the size (nearly 6,700 members) and current content of the Facebook poses both opportunities and challenges. As a result, if you are on Facebook, we warmly welcome your

contributions in the group. While the Facebook group is open to the public, the ASFS email listserv through Google Groups is a member-only space that you are welcome to use as well, particularly between newsletter issues to share publication news and CFPs and to discuss research and teaching questions. I appreciate all of the members who participated in the August 2018 survey about the ASFS Facebook Group and our Listserv. Your responses will inform our future efforts on these platforms. At any time, I welcome your suggestions for how to enhance our member communication and connection efforts through the newsletter, the listserv, and social media.

MEMBER PUBLICATIONS BOOKS

Carole Counihan, Penny Van Esterik, and Alice P. Julier. Food and Culture: A Reader, 4th Edition (Routledge, December 2018). Jonathan Deutsch (editor). We Eat What? A Cultural Encyclopedia of Unusual Foods in the United States (Greendwood, 2018), including many entries authored by ASFS members. Jonathan Deutsch and Megan Elias. Barbecue: A Global History (Reaktion, 2018), in Japanese translation. Claudio Ferlan. Sacred and Profane Drinking: Drunkenness in the Old and the New Worlds (il Mulino, 2018). Shingo Hamada and Richard Wilk. Seafood: Ocean to the Plate (Routledge, 2018).

Saman Hassibi and Amir Sayadabdi (Translator). The Manual by Bavarchi: A 16th Century Persian Cookbook (Prospect Books, April 2018). John Hoenig. Garden Variety: The American Tomato from Corporate to Heirloom (Columbia University Press, 2018). Sharon Hudgins (editor). Food on the Move: Dining on the Legendary Railway Journeys of the World (Reaktion Books, 2018). Marion Nestle. Unsavory Truth: How Food Companies Skew the Science of What We Eat (Basic Books, 2018). Alison Pearlman. May We Suggest: Restaurant Menus and the Art of Persuasion (Agate Surrey, October 2018).



ARTICLES Balázs Bálint. “Community-building through Food Self-provisioning in Central and Eastern Europe: An Analysis through the Food Commons Framework.” In Routledge Handbook of Food as a Commons. Jose Luis Vivero-Pol, Tomaso Ferrando, Olivier de Schutter, and Ugo Mattei (Eds). (Routledge, 2018). Garrett Broad. “Effective Animal Advocacy: Effective Altruism, the Social Economy, and the Animal Protection Movement.” Agriculture and Human Values. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10460-018-9873-5. Angela Jill Cooley. “Southern Food Studies: An Overview of Debates in the Field.” History Compass (2018). https://doi.org/10.1111/hic3.12490. Emily Contois and Anastasia Day. “The History of Food and Public Health,” in Food and Public Health. Allison Karpyn (Ed). (Oxford University Press, 2018). Emily Contois. "The Spicy Spectacular: Food, Gender, and Celebrity on Hot Ones." Feminist Media Studies. Commentary and Criticism: Food Media Special Issue. 18, no. 4 (2018), 769-773. Emily Contois. “I Was Trolled – Here’s Why I’m Turning It into a Teaching Opportunity.” Nursing Clio. July 17, 2018. Nathalie Cooke. “Stories of Rice Lake—Stewards, Settlers and Storytellers,” in Food and Landscape, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery. Mark McWilliams (Ed). (Prospect Books, 2018). 99-109. Nathalie Cooke and Alexia Moyer. “Measuring Out Life in Coffee Spoons: Canadian Literary Breakfasts.” CuiZine: The Journal of Canadian Food Cultures 8.1 (2017). Released 12 June 2018. Nathalie Cooke. “Writing the Chinese Restaurateur into the Canadian Literary Landscape.” Studies in Canadian Literature 42.2 (2017). Released June 2018: 5-25. Greg de St. Maurice. “Making the Multi-Dimensional Taste of Japanese Cuisine Public.” In Making Taste Public: Ethnographies of Food and the Senses. Carole Counihan and Susanne Højlund (Eds). (Bloomsbury, 2018). Joel Denker. "Sometimes You Feel Like A Nut: An Immigrant and His Candy Bar." Foodpassages.com.

Maria Fonte and Maria Grazia Quieti. “Food Production and Consumption Practices Toward Sustainability: The Role and Vision of Civic Food Networks.” Reference Module in Food Science. Elsevier, 2018. Melissa Fuster. “Food Security and Access to ‘Balanced Meals’ among Dominicans and Puerto Ricans in the United States.” Centro Journal 30, no. I (2018): 10-25. Hannah Garth. “Studying Food Acquisition: Lessons from Santiago de Cuba and South Los Angeles.” Social Science Research Council Newsletter. September 4, 2018. Sharon Hudgins. "From Caviar to Mystery Meat: Dining across Two Continents on the Trans-Siberian Railway." In Food on the Move: Dining on the Legendary Railway Journeys of the World. Sharon Hudgins (Ed). (Reaktion Books, 2018), 75-99. Sharon Hudgins. "From Kaluga to Chak-Chak: Eating Locally along the Trans-Siberian Tracks." In Food and Landscape: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2017. Mark McWilliams (Ed). (Prospect Books, 2018), 198-211. Sharon Hudgins. "Tsatsal: The Symbolism and Significance of Mongolian Ceremonial Milk Spoons." Mongolian Studies: Journal of the Mongolia Society, Vol. XXXVI (2014, issued in 2018): 41-77. Hayden Kantor. “Building Beyond the Bypass Road: Urban Migration, Ritual Eating, and the Fate of the Joint Family in Patna, India.” American Anthropologist 120, no. 2 (2018): 212-223. Shana Klein. “Lady Liberty with a Tomato: A Dialogue on Art and Activism with the Coalition of Immokalee Farmworkers.” Public Art Dialogue 8.1 (2018): 98-113. Shana Klein. "Westward the Star of Empire”: California Grapes and Western Settlement in the Nineteenth Century.” Southern California Quarterly 100.2 (Summer 2018): 124-149. Don Willis. “Food Insecurity and Childhood Health Outcomes” in Food and Poverty: Food Insecurity and Food Sovereignty among America's Poor. Leslie Hossfeld, E. Brooke Kelly, and Julia Ferrara Waity (Eds). (Vanderbilt University Press, 2018). Chelsie Yount-André. "Empire's leftovers: Eating to integrate in secular Paris." Food and Foodways 26, no. 2 (2018): 124-145.



ANNOUNCING TWO NEW DOCTORATES STEPHANIE MARONEY defended her dissertation, “Eat for Your Microbes: Reimagining Diet, Health, and Subjectivity in the Probiotic Present” in Cultural Studies with a Designated Emphasis in Feminist Theory and Research from the University of California, Davis, advised by Charlotte Biltekoff, Julie Guthman, and Kimberly Nettles-Barcelón. Abstract:This dissertation examines how the emergent science of the human microbiome is taken up in the realm of diet and health. The human microbiome marks a broad scientific and cultural shift to thinking of microbes as beneficial, and in so doing, opens up new possibilities for conceptualizing embodiment and ecological relations between humans and microbes. However, I argue that these possibilities also bring new interventions and potentially perilous forms of governance over human and more-than-human life. Through a discursive analysis of microbiome dietary advice, ancestral microbiome research, and food fermentation practices, I demonstrate how the probiotic present is shaped by ideologies of health(ism), promissory scientific futures, and ethical ways of living. Stephanie currently teaches critical nutrition studies in the University of Pacific's Food Studies Program, and facilitates local collaborative experiments in radical mycology. DON WILLIS defended his dissertation, “Feeding the Student Body: Insecurity and Inequality Among College

Students” in Sociology at the University of Missouri in Columbia. Abstract: In this study, I investigate the impact of food and food insecurity on the lives of college students. Broadly, this research is aimed at highlighting food as a resource vital to both biological and social well-being. Because research on food insecurity among college student populations is still very limited, some initial research questions include: How prevalent is food insecurity among college students? And, who is most likely to be food insecure? I also address the following questions regarding the consequences of food insecurity for this population: How does food insecurity impact college students’ health and social life? What social or non-nutritional pathways may help explain the link between food insecurity and student health outcomes? To answer these questions, I draw on original survey data collected in the spring of 2017 from a random sample of 389 undergraduate college students. The answers to these questions are discussed within the context of the expansion of higher education and urban universities, and the role of universities in shaping opportunities for upward mobility. Don is beginning a new position as Assistant Professor of Sociology at the University of Arkansas at Little Rock in the Sociology and Anthropology department. He will also coordinate their Poverty Studies program.

Photo credit: Sharon Hudgins. "Siberian pine nut meringue cookies." (left)

"Chocolate soup with chopped hazelnuts at a cafe in Bratislava, Slovakia" (right)



MEMBER NEWS Michael S. Bruner, co-editor of The Rhetoric of Food, retired from Humboldt State University in July 2018. Dr. Angela Jill Cooley received tenure in the Department of History at Minnesota State University, Mankato, effective August 2018. In October, she will give a talk called “Freedom’s Farms: Food Security Past, Present & Future” at Political Futures: A Conference hosted by the Institute for the Humanities at the University of Illinois at Chicago. Greg de St. Maurice began a new job as Associate Professor of Human Life Science at Osaka City University. Sharon Hudgins presented five lectures on history, culture, and food aboard Smithsonian Journeys' "Trans-Siberian Express" tour from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, to Moscow, Russia, in July 2018. She will also be the lecturer on Smithsonian's "Arctic Explorer by Private Train" tour from Moscow and St. Petersburg to the Russian Arctic and northern Finland in winter 2018-2019. In June 2018 she presented lectures on "Baltic Bites: Traditional and Modern Cuisines of the Baltic Lands" and "Feasts, Festivals, & Folklore of Norway," as well as lectures on Germany and Russia, aboard a Viking ocean cruise in the Baltic Sea. During this year she also lectured on “The Life and Times of Julia Child” for civic groups in the Dallas area. Hayden Kantor started a new position as Lecturer in the Program in Writing and Rhetoric at Stanford University.

Shana Klein started as Assistant Professor of Art in the Art History program at Kent State University. There, she will be working on her book project, The Fruits of Empire: Contextualizing Food in Post-Civil War American Art. Kerri Lesh, from the Center for Basque Studies at the University of Nevada, Reno, was awarded a Russell J. and Dorothy S. Bilinski Fellowship for the 2018-2019 academic year to support her as she writes her dissertation. She will also be presenting a piece in October for Academic Minute, which relates to her research on the Basque language and gastronomy. Alex McIntosh is a Co-Investigator on the 2017-2020 “Actionable Links between Soil Function, Ecosystem Services, and Stakeholder Perceptions to Overcome Barriers to Improved Soil Management” USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture (NIFA) $200,000 grant. Jeff Miller exhibits creativity in another vein in a new exhibition at Colorado State University’s Gustafson Gallery, titled “Jeff Miller’s Buddhist Approach to Guerrilla Quilting.” For more read: https://chhs.source.colostate.edu/new-gustafson-exhibit-csu-professor-turns-from-food-prep-to-buddhist-guerrilla-quilting/ Zachary Nowak earned his PhD in American Studies from Harvard University in May 2018 and is currently a College Fellow in Harvard's History Department. He’ll be teaching "American Food, A Global History" next semester.

Photo credit: Sharon Hudgins. "Seller of chak-chak, a traditional Tatar sweet, in Kazan, Tatarstan, Russian Federation, 2018."



ANNOUNCEMENTS Tickets on Sale for the Nobel Conference - Living Soil: A Universe Underfoot Scoop up some soil in your hands and consider this astonishing fact: there are more organisms in that handful of soil than humans who have ever lived. Soil is a living entity in its own right, a community of micro- and macro-organisms that interact with the earth’s mineral resources to create this complex entity that undergirds all life on the planet. Living Soil: A Universe Underfoot invites participants to consider the vast diversity and complexity of soil, and to ponder the challenges we face in protecting this most fundamental resource. The conference is October 2 & 3 at Gustavus Adolphus College in Saint Peter, Minnesota. Agricultural and soil professionals use the discount code SOIL to receive 25% off. Learn more and order tickets at: gustavus.edu/events/nobelconference/.

Smithsonian Food History Weekend November 1-3 at the National Museum of American History, join scholars, chefs, writers, and makers for the 2018 Smithsonian Food History Weekend. This year’s theme—Regions Reimagined—will explore the history and changing dynamics of regional food cultures in the United States. Full details for all events: the gala, roundtable discussions (featuring several ASFS members!), festival (including cooking demonstrations and an interactive exploration of regional grains), and “Last Call” program on brewing history can be found here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/events/food-history-weekend The gala and “Last Call” are ticketed events; everything else is free. Registration is now open for the roundtables. Space is limited, register now!

Special Issue of H-France Salon, “Eating in France,” Forthcoming November 2018 H-France Salon, an online journal edited by Patrick Bray (Ohio State University) and published by H-France (history and culture of the Francophone world), will partner with Contemporary French Civilization for a special issue on "Eating in France." This issue, edited by Michael Garval (North Carolina State University) will feature a new essay, “ ‘Huîtres de Zélande –Râbles de chevreuil Grand Veneur – Poulardes truffées Rossini’ and more: Dining in the Cahiers of Henri Vever” by Willa Z. Silverman (Penn State University), and will provide free access to two articles from “Beyond Gastronomy,” a special issue of Contemporary French Civilization (42, 3-4, December 2017) edited by Michael Garval and Philippe Dubois (Bucknell University): “Why the French Hate Doggie Bags” by Janet Beizer (Harvard University), and “Making Couscous French? Digesting the Loss of Empire” by Sylvie Durmelat (Georgetown University). Stetson University Launches Sustainable Food Systems Program This fall an interdisciplinary group of faculty at Stetson University in DeLand, Florida have begun cultivating the first crop of students in the new Sustainable Food Systems program. Currently, the program consists of an academic minor in sustainable food systems, with the hope of eventual expansion into a full major. ASFS member Sarah Cramer, who recently completed her PhD in agricultural education at the University of Missouri, was hired as a Brown Visiting Teacher-Scholar Fellow in Sustainable Food Systems to develop and teach the core food courses within the program. Tara Schuwerk, Associate Professor of Communication and Media Studies, serves as the program director. As part of their coursework, students will engage in experiential learning throughout the campus and community; working with the campus garden, campus dining services, and local farmers, food distributers, and restaurants. Sarah can be reached at [email protected], and Tara at [email protected].



University of Toronto and New York University Participate in Food Studies PhD Student + Postdoc Exchange Over two days in August 2018, representatives from the University of Toronto and NYU presented and commented on the work of doctoral students, postdocs and faculty. The program included two field trips: one in the Lower East Side, Manhattan and the other led by Noah Allison at Roosevelt Avenue, Queens, on immigrant-run food businesses. The following students and faculty presented their work: Kathy Burke, Rikki Digout, Gillian Gualtieri, Lisa Haushofer, Juan C. S. Herrera, Katherine Magruder, Valeria Mantilla Morales, Marion Nestle, Fabio Parasecoli, Ariadna Pauliuc, Cheng Qiu, Krishnendu Ray, Joeva Rock, Jayeeta Sharma, Jennifer Shutek, Koby Song-Nichols, and Amanda Whittaker. The Master in Food Studies at The American University of Rome is now in its fourth year (graduate.aur.edu/program/ma-food-studies). The program welcomes students who wish to earn their US-accredited M.A. degree in Rome. Partnerships are also available for universities and scholars who would like partner through the Visiting Scholar’s Program (graduate.aur.edu/visiting-scholars-program). Gustolab International is accepting applications for the spring 2019 “Food Culture and Food Media in Italy” Study Abroad Program. This four-month full-immersion program (gustolab.com/spring-programs) introduces

participants to the on-site exploration of the interdisciplinary field of food studies. While staying in nearby apartments, students can take up to five academic courses taught by local professors holding a PhD, professionals in the field as well as professional instructors. In addition, students have the option of adding on a month-long academic internship. The courses are complemented by regular excursions into Rome or other areas of Italy. This study program will assist students in identifying and analyzing major components of food culture, cooking, sociology, history, and architecture in Italy. Open to: Students interested in food studies, food systems, sustainability & related fields. Scholars, researchers, and professionals are also encouraged to inquire. Write to [email protected] to receive application materials. SDGs FOR ALL STUDENTS is an initiative launched by Gustolab International in May 2018 to foster dialogue among students, academics, educators, and researchers on the importance of learning about and acting towards sustainability (gustolab.com/sdgs-for-all-students). We do this through our courses, academic internships, events and communication campaigns. The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) are a great tool to explore the meaning of sustainability as they pertain to issues that are worldwide regarding every human being. If you would like to be involved check gustolab.com and please send an email to [email protected].

ASFS OFFICERS President, Krishnendu Ray, [email protected] Vice-President, Greg de St. Maurice, [email protected] Secretary, Beth Forrest, [email protected] Treasurer, Jennifer Berg, [email protected]

SHARE YOUR MEMBER NEWS The ASFS Newsletter is published twice per year in April and September. Please submit your member news,

updates, and photography to Emily Contois, ASFS Newsletter Editor, at [email protected].

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