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The landscape of the Palo Alto areain the early Spanish period:

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observations of the vegetation cover from original sources.

Jasper Ridge docent training projectSara Timby

1988

I. Introduction.

II. Historical overview; a table of major events andparticiPants arranged chronologically. Particularerrphasis on events of botanic interest.

III. Quotedobservations from original sources.

IV. Copies of maps.

V. Bibliography.

I. Introduction.

The published commentariesof our earliest visitors are one of the fewwayswe can reconstruct the vegetation patterns arourrl Palo Alto beforethe population influx affected the laOOscape. Naturally the physicalcharacteristics of soil and soil depth, exposure, rainfall, etc., all helpin the final evaluation of what were probably the original plantcommunities; I do not here attenpt to evaluate this evidence. I haveprovided an historical overview in order to place the people whamI havequoted in the greater context of what was happening, particularlybotanically, in California. The quoted passages are by necessity at timescondensed; nevertheless I have tried to keep the original wordingexceptwhere paraphrasing adds general knowledgeabout their location oractivities. In addition to narrative commentaryI have looked for earlymaps, although the search was by no meansexhaustive. A record ofpictorial impressions rerxiered by early visitors remains to be researched,and mayprove quite rewarding.

The bibliography for a subject such as this is always OPenforadditions. I would enjoy talking with any readers whoare interested inthis subject.

Mythanks go to the manypeople with whamI discussed this project,particularly to Alan Grundmannfram whamcamethe original idea, JohnThomaswhopointed out William Carey Clarke's thesis, and Herb ~lerwhoseenthusiasm for the subject has provided memuchpleasure.

1769-70.

1769. Nov.

II. Historical overview~Table of major events and participants

Gaspar de Portola. OVerlandexpedition from San DiegotoMonterey. Discovered San Francisco Bayby accident,by-passing Monterey. Diary. First report (Nov. 1769) ofthe plain by San Francisquito creek ''well woodedwith liveoaks am. muchpasture." (Portola~ 1909, p. 39)

Miguel CostansO. AccompaniesPortola. (CostansO,1910 &

1911)

1769. Nov. & Fray Juan crespi. Acconpani.esboth Portola (in 1769) and1772. Mar. Fages (in 1772). (crespi, 1927, p. 18 & 285) and (Galvin,

1971). Mentions tPe Portola San Francisquito camp(Nov.1769) am. area betweenCoyoteand Milpitas. (Mar. 1772).Drawsmap, 1772. (Galvin, 1971).

1770. Nov. Pedro Fages visits Santa Clara valley. (Fages: 1911, p.1772. Mar. 151) am. (Fages: 1937)

1770. San Carlos mission fourrled in Monterey. Search for suitablesettlement sites includes such factors as year-around water,presence of Indians, good soil, and available wood.

1774. Nov. FernandoRivera y Moncada. Traveled in the south andwestern parts of Santa Clara Valley. (Rivera y Moncada,1774)

1774. Nov. Padre Francisco Palau. Acconpani.esRivera y Moncada. Oneof the best early aCCOlU1ts,particularly reo chaparral.(Palau, 1926v.3, p. 261-264)

1775. Juan Manuelde Ayala. First to enter San Francisco Baybyboat. Acconpani.edby Caiiizares, whodraws a map. (Galvin,1971)

1776. Mar. Juan Bautista de Anza. Leads colonists north to fourrl thepresidio and mission at what becomesSan Franicisco.(Bolton, 1930, v.3, p. 124, 126, 134)

1776. Mar. Pedro Font. Diarist for the Anza~tion. (Font: 1911~Font: 1933~and Bolton, 1930, v.4 p. 323-29, 344, 352-54)

1777. Pueblo of San Jose and Santa Clara mission fourrled.

1786. Sept Jean-Francois Salaup de Ia Perouse stops at Monterey~mapofSan Francisco and Montereybays (not reprcx:1uced).Accorcpmiedby botanist Collignon whocollects Abroniaumbellata, the first westem plant to be grownin Europe.(Ia Perouse, 1799)

1791. Sept Alejandro Malaspinaexpedition anchors in Montereyharbor.Botanists 'IhaddeusHaenke(1761-1817)and Louis Neecollectin Santa cruz Mts. Haenke's collections were described by

Karel BoriwogPresl. Needescribes QUercusaqrifolia and ~lobata. '!hey collect Berberis ¢.nnata, Heteromeles, andZausdmeria califomica. (Presl: 1832-1858)

1792. Nov. Vancouverexpedition stopS in San Francisco bay~ travel framSan Francisco to Santa Clara mission. Famousremark aboutthe oak parkland. (Vancouver,1798, v.2, 16-20)

1792. Nov. Archibald Menzies. Vancouver's botanist. Gives Lt.Johnstone's report about trip on the peninsula. First tocollect Sequoia sempervirens, Al:butusmenziesii,Umbellularia califomica and lllpinus arboreus. (Menzies,1924, p. 276-77)

1797. San Jose mission foundedon east side of south S.F. Bay.

1806. Apr. GeorgeHeinrich von Langsdorff. surgeon naturalist on thevon Krusenstem expedition. visits shore of bay near PaloAlto. Mentions SUaedacalifomica Watson. (Langsdorff,1813, p.3)

1810. 8,000 head of cattle in California. Numberbegins tomultiply rapidly. (1,000,000will die from lack of food indrought of 1862)

1810. Mexicobegins revolt against Spain. Irrlependent in 1821.

1816. Oct. otto von Kotzebue. C01m'rarrls the Russian ship "Rurik."Accampaniedby ship's surgeon JohannFriedrich Eschscholtz(1793-1831)and naturalist Adelbert von Chamisso(1781-1838). Collect plants in bay area inCluding Myricacalifomica, Rubusursinus, R. vitifolius, Solanumumbelliferum, Scrophularia califomica, Ceanothusthrvsiflorus, Artemisia californica, Inpinus chamissonis,and Rhamnuscalifomica. Eschscholtz visits San Jose.Chamissonamesour California poppyEschscholzia californicafor his colleague. (Mahr,1932)

1820. 3,270 settlers and soldiers in california.20,000 mission. Indians in california.

1824. Kotzebuereturns to San Francisco bay, travels by boat toSan Mateopoint where he ate un:ier the shade of spreadingoaks. (Kotzebue: 1830, II, p.39)

1822. Mexicaniniependence from Spain brings relaxed canunercialpolicy and beginning of the hide and tallow trade. Missionssecularized, begin decline.

1826. Nov & Dec. Captain Frederick WilliamBeecheyand ship surgeonAlexan:ier Collie travel downpeninsula fromSan Francisco toCoyotecreek and on to Monterey. (Beechey:1831& Hooker:1830-41)

1827. Jan.

1829.

1830-32.

1830.

Bernard du Hautcilly. Onpeninsula. (Ben1aJ:ddu Hautcilly,1929, p.236: also pp.131-166, 214-250, 306-336)

Alfrec1Robinson. Arrives in California. Earliest "tourist",account. (Robinson:i1891)

David tuuglas (1798-1834),plant collector for RoyalHorticultural Society in Montereyand San Francisco: alsoprobably on Mt. Diablo because he collects CalochortusPlllchellus. Collects numerousother species including Pinuslambertiana, P. sabiniana, Iris douglasiana, Calochortusluteus, C. albus, Trillium ovatum, and Rhusdiversiloba.Manyof his plants were later describec1by John Linlley.Unfortunately, Douglas' California joumaJ. was lost in ashipwreck on the Fraser River in 1833. '!he infonnation wehave is from his letter to Sir W.J. Hooker, 23 Nov. 1831,where he describes his collections fromhis year spent atMontereyand mentions his trip north to San Francisco andbeyond. (D:>uglas:1836)

Non-Indianpopulation of California: 4,256.

1836.

1831-32

1833-36.

'IhomasCoulter (1793-1843)in Santa CruzMountains. Hisnotes and journal are lost but his 1,500-2,000 specimenssurvive. Collects Abies bracteata, Pinus coulteri, Romneyacoulteri. Travels overland through the Salinas Valley andon to southern California and Arizona. later becomescurator at the herbarium at Trinity College. (Eastwood,1939)

38 land grants madein the Santa Clara Valley.Secularization of missions complete. First commercialvinyard established, 1833, by vignes. First commercialorchard establishec1, 1836, by Wolfskill. Mostagriculturalland in private ownership.

'IhomasNuttall (1786-1859)collects Aesculus californica atMontereyand Alnus rhombifolia. (Eastwood,1939)

1837. OctJNov.Richard Brinsley Hinds. surgeon-naturalist on Britishsurvey ship H.M.S.SUlphur, under canunandof FdwardBelcher• .Accol'1'pani.edby Geo~e Barclay, plant collectorsent by the Royal Botanical Gardenat Kew. Travel to SantaClara. Geo~e Benthamdescribes the botanical collections.(Bentham:1844-46)

1841. Dlflot de Mofras. Onpeninsula he singles out San Mateocreek and San Francisquito Creek as having laurels of"••• regal proportions and extraordinary height." Publishesgood mapof bay area. (ruflot de Mofras, 1844)

1840s 'Ihe Woodsideand Portola Valley redwoods(knownthen as thePulgas redwoodsor San Francisquito woods,dependingonwhich side of the creek you took them) supplied the limitedneec1for woodof both San Francisco and Santa Clara missionsand presidio and pueblo. Handcutting utilizing sawpits

1841. Oct.

1841. Aug.

1844-46.

meant limited woodwas cut, but manypeople were working inthe area. (Brown,'1966)

William D.mlopBrackenridge (1810-1893),assistantnaturalist with the Oregon-california overland contingent ofthe U.S. Exploring Expedition uooer COIl1l'l1aI'rl of Charleswilkes. Reports on the salt marsh near Santa Clara.Collects first plants for aU. S. collection (theSmithsonian) including the Darli.nqtonia californica.OMaloney,1945, p.334, and Eastwood,1945)

Charles Wilkes stays several months in the bay area. GivesCalifornia population figures at this ti1ne as:

Whites, 3,000Mexican, 2,000Irrlian, 8, or 9,000

(Wilkes, 1856)

John Charles Fremont (1813-1890)reports that in Santa ClaraValley there are four to five varieties of wild clover amthat there are almost inpenetrable fields of wild mustard,ten to twelve feet high. (Fremont,1848, p. 148)

r

1845JanjFeb Fremontis in San Francisco, NewAlmaden,San Jose, amcrossed from !.os Gatos to Santa Cruz. (Fremont, 1887, p.456.)

1845.

1845.

1845.

1846. Feb.

1846.

1848.

ca. 1848.

1849.

1849.

NewAlmadenquicksilver mine opens near San Jose.

All desirable land in private holdings (land grants) .Cattle are dominanteconomy.

'IheodorHartweg (1812-1871),botanist sent by the RoyalHorticultural Society to collect, is in Montereyand theSanta Cruz Mountains. (Hartweg:1848, & Bentham:1848)

EdwinBtyant mentions the wild oats and mustard betweenSanta Clara and Palo Alto. (Btyant, 1849, p. 318)

U.S. war with Mexico, cession of California to U.S.

Firt water powersawmill in California, DennisMartin on theSan Francisquito Creek.

William Kelly visits California as a tourist. Gives thefirst negative account of the climate, inllcating the sununerwater shortage. (Kelly, 1851)

Dr. Albert Kellogg (1813-1887)foums California AcademyofSciences. Collects Lilium oardalinum.

William Lobb, plant collector for English nurseryman,William Veitch, collects Sequoiagigantea. Died in SanFrancisco in 1863.

1848.

1850.

,1853.

Population in Califomia is 15,000.

Population in Califomia is 100,000.

15 water poweredsawmills. Rapid cutting of redwoodsbeginson eastenl side of the Santa cruz Mts. crest. Prior to thistime sawpits and bani sawingwas the only meansofobtaining timbers. Adobeconstruction required very littlewood- only beamsand door lintels. (Brown:1966)

III. Quotedobservations from oriainal sources

1769. November. Fray Juan Crespi.At the GltadalupeRiver betweenSan Jose and the bay Crespi reportsthat a scouting party of the Portola expedition found "••. a river witha considerable flow of water and a bed well-woodedwith differentJd.njs of trees." Arxljust east of Palo Alto along San FrancisquitoCreek he writes, ''we caIt'pedabout four or five leagues fram the erx:lofthis estuary, about a league fram it, in a level plain whichmust havebeen at least six leagues wide, woodedwith oak and samelive oak. Westopped near a good stream of water that flowed through the middle ofthe large plain and estuary. All the land is so very good and mellowthat it can not be excelled." (Crespi: 1927, p.28)

1770. November. Pedro Fages.In the Santa Clara Valley betweenCoyoteand San Jose: "DJring thiswhole day's journey the land was level and good, with manyoaks andsame live oaks." (Fages: 1911, p.lS1) ArxlbetweenSan Jose and thetidal narshes fringing Coyotecreek at the southam ern of SanFrancisco Bay: "This area was said to be a goodcountry populated withoaks, live oaks, and other trees whichthe membersof the expeditiondid not recognize. Somewherenear the muth of Coyotecreek theycrossed a dry arroyo whichwas heavily wooderlwith alders (orsycamores) and other trees. Nearbywas a fresh water lagoonsurround.edby rushes (iuncos), cattails (eneas), and extensivepasture. (Clarke: 1952, p.138)

1772. March. Fray Juan Crespi.BetweenCoyoteand Milpitas: "Theregion just north of Coyotewaswell covered with grass and grownwith oaks and live oaks. Farthernorth, about at San Jose, the valley was all black, mellowsoil, wellcovered with several sorts of hems and grass and with manyoaks arrllive oaks. In the distance to the west they could see manytreeswhich they judged to be on the GuadalupeRiver. Theytried to reachthe mouthof Coyotecreek, but were stopped by the tidal marsheswhichwere so miry that they had samedifficulty getting out of them. '!heycampednear Milpitas on an arroyo with samealders in its bed.(Clarke Paraphrase (ibid) of Crespi : 1927, p.285)

1774. November. Padre Francisco Palou.Near Calabazas creek (CUpertino): ''weagain took the road.•. followingthe plain of good land, partly woodedwith small trees resemblingjunipers [probably Adenostomafasciculatum], and amongthem samelarger madroi'io,with froit the size of a chick pea, but not yet ripe."Urrloubtedlythis latter was a species of Arctostaphylos. Furthertoward Palo Alto: "Theday's march, although it has not been morethan four hours and a half, has been heavy, for although it has allbeen over level grourxi, yet it has been troublesomeon account of thethick groves of junipers and madronesthat I spoke of yesterday,although the woodswere interspersed with goodspots of oaks." Headds that they crossed three arroyos, all with manytrees. '!hesewouldhave included the present Stevens Creek, Permanentecreek, SanAntonio Creek, and Madera creek. At San Francisquito Creek: "Itscourse is well grownwith cottonwoods,willows, alders, laurels,

blackberries, and others not known. Near the crossing there is agrove of very large redwoodtrees, and a hurrlred steps farther downanother very large one of the sameredwood,which is visible morethana league before reaching the arroyo." '!hey continued north from PaloAlto "'••. by the sameplain or valley of gcxxlland and I1U.1chPaSture,grownwith oaks and live oaks. The estuary comesvery near on thenorth, and to the south there is a high mountainrange covered withredwoodtrees. At the foot of it there is a range of hills of gcxxlland, pasture, am groves of oaks and live oaks. '!he whole plain nmsin the samewaywith groves of live oaks in places." Somewherecloseto San Carlos (two and a half hours fromSan Francisquito Creek) theyturned into the hills because their leader, Rivera, was afraid of"•.• striking one of the marshes that are in the neighbomoodof theshore of the estuary ••• " (There is a small hill that carnesquiteclose to the shoreline betweenthe present San Carlos and Belmont;they probably preferred to travel up the Pulgas Creek rather thancrossing the hill.) In the foothills they crossed a stream (probablyBel1nontCreek) " ... well forested with trees." Palou and Riveraclimbed Buri Buri Ridge to the west of SanMateoand looked downonthe western side of the bay (they could not see the eastern side onaccount of a light fog). ''Wesaw its entire shore, which is full ofsmall lagoons, small estuaries, and arroyos whichemptyinto the largeestuaty. Judging by the tule beds whichwehave seen on its banks, itmayhave manymarshes, and for this reason I SUSPeCtit will be verydifficult to get to the very shore of the estuary .•. " (Palou : 1926,v.3, p.263-273)

1776. March. Juan Bautista de Anza.'!he GuadalupeRiver course near Agnewshad "... abundant and gcxxltimber of cottonwood, ash, willow,-and other kinds." He reports agreat aburrlanceof firewood and agricultural land in the area andstates the general suitability for a settlement here. -In continuing.north from Calabazas Creek to San MateoCreekhe canunents,"all thearroyos mentionedtoday, and a larger numberwhichhave been passeddry shod, wehave found grownwith manytall and thick laurels ofextraordinary and most fragrant scent." Just south of San MateoCreekhe reports, "here en'is the abundanceof oaks, live oaks and othertrees whichwe have had on all sides on the wayfrom San Bemadino[Gilroy]." (Bolton: 1930, v.3, pp 126-134)

1776. March. Pedro Font.Near Calabazas Creek Font climbed a hill and looked dOlN'I'lat the southend of the bay where he reported "••. several small inlets and a largestretch of bad, muddyand salty land this side west of the water; butit appears that the estuary extends at times through all that marginand flat." An arroyo just north of Calabazas, either Stevens orPennanente Creek, was called "Arroyode los Iaureles" because of thelaurels along its course. Somewherein this area he notes, "•.• a verydense grove of abrojos, which they call El BosqueEspinosa, althoughit does not have thorns." He reports San Francisquito Creek to have".•. various laurels, ash, and other trees, and a few spruce treeswhich they call redwood,a tree that is certainly beautiful; and Ibelieve that it is very useful for its timber, for it is very straightand tall ... " '!hey continued north fromPalo Alto through ".•• a verybeautiful plain full of oaks, whichwe sawall the wayyesterday and

tcXIay,am which are likewise seen at a distance. Thus it appearsthat they are fourxi in all the plain shich surrounds the estual:y amwhich is continuous with yesterday's plain [santa Clara Valley]." Alittle later Font says that the IJ.anode 108Robles, so-named

'\ " .•• because it is very thickly grownwith oaks of all sizes .•• " enjssomethree leagues (ca. eight miles) north of San :Francisquito Creek.Of San MateoCreek he writes, "it has manylaurels am ash trees onits banks, am in all this stretch, which likewise is level country,there are nany laurels ani also oaks ani samelive oaks." Arrlof theshore of the bay near San Mateo, "the estuary is very large, but hasvery bad shores, for eve1:yWherefor a good stretch it is surroun:ied.bymarshy lams ani little bays which nm out fram it am exterrl for agreater or less distance through these shores ani flats. But outsideof the flats the lani is level ani very green." (Font: 1930, v.4, pp325-344)

1792. November. GeorgeVancouver.Reporting on the trip south fram San Francisco, they have just leftwhat is probably San MateoCreek: ''Wehad not proceeded.far from thisdelightful spot whenwe entered a country I little expected to find inthese regions. For about twenty miles it could only be comparedto apark, which had originally been closely planted. with the true old

r English oak; the undeJ:WOOd,that had probably attended its earlygrowth, had the appearance of having been cleared away, ani had leftthe stately lords of the forest in c.onpletepossession of the soil,which was covered.with luxuriant herbiage, and beautifully diversifiedwith pleasing eminencesand val1ies; which, with the range of softlyrugged.mountains that boundedthe prospect, required only to beadorned.with the neat habitations of an industrious people, to producea scene not inferior to the most studied effect of taste in thedisposal of CJrounds... " (Vancouver: 1798, p. ) A little waysouthfram Palo Alto on the wayto the mission of Santa Clara :they.leave theoak parklams and enter an openmeadowa fewmiles in extent. Then,before reaching the mission, they pass through six miles of low swarrpycountry, with their horses nearly knee-deep in water and mud. (Clarke: 1952, p.142)

1792. November. Archibald Menzies.Menzies, the botanist on Vancouver's expedition, was unable to makethe trip due to sickness. His report is based on the testioony of aLieutenant Johnstone, whodid accompanyVancouveron the trip south.Fromthe mission they travelled sametwenty miles before they halted.for a lunch stop "on a verdant plain skirted with samerising groun::iam beautifully diversified with groves of trees through which aliIrpid stream of fresh water mearxierdin its course ani gave a noveltyto the prospect, which fromthe aridity of the countJ::ywas but seldommet with; in short a spot moredelightful they all agreed.could hardlybe met with on the wholeglobe... Theywere yet scarcely half way,and excepting a few Indian huts there was no other house or shelterbetween them and Santa Clara•.. The road they pursued was plain anilevel as a bowling green without even a stone to iIrpede theirprogress, as they advanced.they passed.through forests of fine oaks,[OUercuslobata] the greatest part of whichthey left on their righthand, these oaks were scatterd so far apart, that instead ofincommodingor obstructing their way, they contributed mch to rerrler

it more delightful by the various scenes and vistas which were everymomentopening to their view. A ridge of hills to the southwardseemingly clothed with pines ran betweenthemto the sea coast, and ontheir north side a range of mountains ran parallel to it, at the footof which a branch of the port of San Francisco ran towards santaClara, so that their path ran through a fertile valley, which forpleasing prospects and richness of soil could no where be excelled ..• "'!hey were still about four leagues fromSanta Clara whenthey, "cameto low swanpyground, which the late rains had coverd with water abouta foot deep..• " (Menzies: 1924, 276-277)

1806. April. GeorgeHeinrich von Iangsdorff.Travelling from the presidio to the mission, "'!he road is bad eitherfor horses or for walking, consisting almost every where of a loosesand. '!he surrounding country is in general naked, ani the hills,covered in sameparts with low shrubs, afford but little variety. '!hebirds were a.lnost the only things to attract our attention: I sawseveral sorts unknownto me, besides eagles, cranes, curlews, ducks;there were also a few rabbits and hares." (Iangsdorff: 1814, p. 154)In describing the view from on board he writes, "'!he shore, on ourleft, or the eastern shore, presented a low and extensive plainstretching several miles inland, whichwasboumed by a chain of hillsof a moderate heighth, intersected with deep val1ies, and in sameplaces well covered with wood. '!he western shore is boundedwithhills partly naked, partly covered with brushwood. '!he whole shorefonus manypoints of land and small bays; in one of the latter liesthe Mission of st. Francisco. As far as this place, the water is deepenoughfor large vessels, but soon after it growsnnlchshallower, nothaving a depth of morethan five feet: this was shewnby a greatchange in the color of the water." (ibid. p.189) '!hey travel byshallow boat to Mission San Jose on the southeast end of the bay anddescribe in great detail the marshyarea thereabouts (ibid. pp.190-191) Hedescribes the site of the "mission,"'!he "onlydisadvantageis that there are no large trees very near. '!he natives of thecountry have several tiInes from thoughtlessness, whenthey wanted tocelebrate sameparticular rejoicing, set fire to the woods, and burntdownlarge tracts, so as to leave scarcely any trees standing; thewoodfor building nnlSttherefore be brought froma distance of severalmiles." (ibid. p. 193)

1826. November. Captain Frederick William Beechey.Near San Bruno, at the spot Beecheycalls "Burri Burri," they cameupon the collecting spot for large quantities of soaproot (Chloroqalumpameridianum). Near San Mateohe describes, "..• a wide country ofmeadowland, with clusters of fine oak free fromurxiel:WOOd.Itstrongly resembled a nobleman's park: herds of cattle and horses weregrazing upon the rich pasture .•. " Farther south, near Belmont,".•• the plain still continued animatedwith herds of cattle, horses,ani sheep grazing; but the nab1e clusters of oak were nowvaried withshrubberies, which afforded a retreat to numerouscoveys of Californiapartridges [quail] .•• " Near the town of Coyote, Beechey's partystopped by the creek ani ate urxier the shade of an "aliso-tree"[alder] .

1827. January. Bernard du Hautcil1y.

Eulogizes the oak parklands am stresses the arrangementof the treesinto clusters. Cannnentson the mistletoe (1=horadendronvillosum) onmanyof the larger oaks am on the treeless plain south of Palo Alto,adding that it stretched fram the bay to the foot of the l1lOlmtains.

\ '\

1829. Alfred Robinson.I include in his account their start fram the anchorageat yert:laBuena: ''Wecommencedour route through a dense thicket, where thepath was narrow, am where the trees so intersected their branches, asto endanger our heads as we rode along. '!hus wewent on; sometimescrossing little valleys, where the fox-like coyote prc:Mled,amsometimesrising sandy eminences,where a glilnpse was had of theneighboring bay. 'Ihroughthe woodsresoundedthe wolf's howl, and theheavy track of the grizzly bear lay printed in our course. At length,through an opening in the woods,we sawthe Mission of Dolores. Itsdilapidated walls, and dark tiled roof, well accorded with the bleakam cheerless scenery with which it was surrourxied; for the cold,blustering sea win::!s,as they sweepover the hills, chill and destroyvegetation .••. Weproceeded on our route for sta. Clara. '!he firsttwo or three leagues of the journey were over a succession of hillsand.sroall valleys, where the strong westerly gales camewith suchforce that the progress of our horses was somewhatiJnpeded,inconsequenceof the violent effect of the win:ion the large leathertrappings attached to our saddle-gear. Wepassed on the road a largeinclosure, called El potrero" used for the rearing of horses, thewalls of which were of loose stones, piled up to the height of aboutfour feet.

Passing this, we OPeneduponthe grazing grounds of the Mission, wherethousands of cattle were scattered about in herds. Onour right, theland. was elevated, and as it. continued in the distance, its top wascovered with pines. To the left, lay the smoothand spacious bay,extending in a southeast direction, full thirty miles fram the ship'splace of anchorage, boundedon the opposite side by the highlands ofst.I.eandro and st. Jose. OUrride was channing, and nowand then adistant frannhouse, or Indian hut, with its little garden, wouldcamein sight; and rn.nnerousrivulets win:iingtheir waytowards the bay,adding nulchto the picturesqueness of the scene. A ff:Mleaguesbrought us to the sheep-fann of st. Mateo, situated in the midst of asmall wood. '!he building, occupied by the mayordorcoand servants, isspacious and covered with bumt tiles. Here we alighted, and, after ashort rest, remountedand resumedour journey. "El Ranchode laspulgas" was the next place of artj in'g;x:>rtancein our route, ani issituated a little retired fram the road, at the foot of a small risinggrounj. It is the property of DaliaSoledadOrtega, widowof DonInisArguello, formerly governor of California. I founi her a beautifulwcman,and the mother of three or four fine children. She wasverylady-like in her manner, and treated us with the U'tlwstcourtesy.After dinner, we bade her adieu, am again proc.eededon ur way, whichwas uninterrupted, till, far distant in the center of a spaciousplain, we beheld Santa Clara ani its rn.nnerousbuildings."

It was three o'clock whenwe arrived at this Mission, having performedthe journey of eighteen leagues in about eight hours... '!he hills ofst. Jose were visible beyond, am betweixt the trees that covered the

plain we obtained a distant view of the townof that name." Thebayarea is described as having a population of over five thousarxiIn:iians, two hun:rredwhites, mre than forty thousam domesticatedcattle (exclusive of horses, mules, and sheep). "Therivers andcreeks are supplied with an abundanceof salInonand other fish; gameis plentiful, and bears, wildcats, waves, and coyotes, are often metwith. Onthe northern side of the bay are found the Americanelk andantelope, and great quantities of deer; the first of these is huntedfor its tallow, which is preferred to that taken fram bullocks.(Robinson : 1891; 68-72)

1841. EugeneIXlflot de Mefras.En quittant la Mission de SAntaClara pour aller a celIe de SanFrancisco, on traverse une tres lo~ prairie parse11'IE3ede bouquets dechenes, et oil paissent de nombreuxtroupeaux. Onpasse les deuxpetits ruisseaux de San Francisco et de San Mateo, pres desquelss 'elevent des lauriers royaux d' une dimensionet d'une hauteurextraordinaire. Ia route serpente sous ces amres majestueux, et presdes ranchos de San Francisquito, San Mateo, los Juanes, Buri etSanchez.

A droite, on aperc;x>it,sur Ie dernier plan, les IOClIltagnescouronneesde pins rouges; au-des-sous, les eaux de la baie, et souvent, au borddu chemin, de grandes mares dessechees et couvertes de croO.tessalines, qui, de lin, btrillent au soleil commede vastes champsdeneige. A gauche, s'eleve la sierra de San Bruno, tenni.naison de celIede Santa CrUz, de laquelle se detachent quelques pitons de quatre acinq cents metres, et Ie montde Santa Clara qui les dominetous, etest visible a plus de di.x lieues en mer. Parvenua la pointe de SanBruno, Ie terrain devient aride; il est entierement sablonneuxpres dela Mission; mais vers la cOte, sur Ie penchant occidental de la sierrade San Bruno, il y a des herbages dans les bas-foms, et les trois .bonnes fennes de Vazquez,Sanchezet Guerrero. (Olflot de Mefras :1844, pp 423-424)

1841. August. Charles Wilkes.At the time of our visit the country altogether presented rather asingular appearance. Instead of a lively green hue, it had generallya tint of a light straw-colour, showingan extremewant of misture.The drought had continued for eleven months; the cattle were dying inthe fields; and the first view of California was not calculated tomakea favorable impression either of its beauty or fertility.(Wilkes : 1852, p. 232)

"Thevalley ••. of San Juan [Santa Clara Valley] .•. is capable ofproducing wheat, Irrlian com, rye, oats, etc. with all the fruits ofthe 'teIrperate and manyof the tropical cliInates. It likewise offersfine pasture-ground for cattle .•.• But although several smallstreams and.lakes serve to water it, yet in dry seasons or droughts,not only the crops but the heJ:ba.gealso suffers extremely, and thecattle are deprived of food." (Wilkes: 1856, p. 154)

1841. 30 October. Charles Wilkes.

"The country we passed through was at this time destitute of bothwater and grass, am the weather uncomfortablewann. In places wefound it picturesque, for the scattered oaks, laurels, etc., though toall appearances entirely unfit for cultivation. WherefNer there wasany running water, a pond, or vegetation, large flocks of geese andducks were seen." (Wilkes: 1856, p. 212)

1841. October 25. William nmlop Brackenridge.Reports on the salt marsh near Santa Clara: "At 4 p.m. we cameup toour party whohad encampedon the margin of creek of water influencedby the tides [20 miles north from the Santa Clara mission].

Plants. Verbena sp. - in habit of V. venosa, flor. blue.Salicornia sp. - abundant on salt marshnear st. Clara.

[So pacifica]stachys sp. - in thickets near st. Clara.

[So bul1ata]

The country around st Clara is flat, with a rich loamysoil, a largeportion towards the bay consisting of a salt marsh, towards the baseof a range of Mts. - close behind are found a goodmanyoaks thinlyscattered over the plain."

October 26." ... This day was spent in collecting seeds and botanical specimens, tothe last we added

Nicotiana sp. - f1cs. white - leaves very sticky - plant annual[N. biQe1ovii]

Milnulussp. - stem shruby, leaves lanceolate, flor. pale orange,this I be1ifNe to be the sameplant that Mr. Nuttall introducedinto the U. states fromthis country. [Diplacus aurantiacus]Quercus sp. - a tree 60 feet - stem smoothmucl1branched at top,leaves prickly, acorns large with a ~ point. [0. acirifolia]Rhanmussp. - a shrub 10 feet high - COItIIrOI1 in thickets.

[R. californica]I.eptosiphon sp. - a slender annual with white flowers, cllyplaces.Solanumsp. - stem shruby - flcs. a fine sky blue - a handsomeplant.Iaurus sp. - perhpas L. Ftolmi of Hooker, this tree reaches theheight of 40 feet - and covered with a profusion of fruit in sizeam appearance of a Damsonplum. [Urnbellulariacalifornia]Twospecies of Campositarelated to Grirrlellia, from SaltMarshes." [Grindelia COJTIPOnlIn and G. htnnilis]

[Maloney: 1945, pp. 334-335]

1845. January and FebruaJ:y. John Olarles F'reIront."The fertile valley of San Jose is a narrowplain of rich soil lyingbetween equally fertile ranges fromtwo thousand to three thousandfeet high, covered on one side with wild oats, and wocxiedon the rangetoward the sea. Thevalley is openly woodedwith groves of oak freefrom undert>rosh,am after the spring rains covered with grass. Onthe west it is protected fromthe chilling influence of the northwestwinds by the CUesta de 10s Gatos - wild-cat Ridge - which separates itfrom the coast." [Fremont: 1887, p. 456]

184'6. John Charles Fremont.Reports that in summerthe Santa Clara Valley had four or fivevarieties of wild clover several feet high, and "in manyplaces it is

•• over-grownwith wild mustard, growingten or twelve feet high, inalmost iInpenetrable fields, through which roads are madelike lanes."[Fremont : 1848, p. 148]

1846. February. EdwinB:l:yant.Reporting of the area betweenmission San Jose (the lower east side ofthe bay) and the town of San Jose: The route passed "... for the mostPart over a level and highly fertile plain, producing a variety ofindigenous grasses, amongwhich I noticed several species of clover,and mustard, large tracts of whichwe rode through, the stalks varyingfrom six to ten feet in height. Theplain is watered by severalarroyos, skirted with timber, generally the evergreen oak." [BJ:yant:1849, p. 314]

FromSanta Clara to Palo Alto he reports, ''Wetravelled fifteen milesover a flat plain, timbered with groves and parks of evergreen oaks,and covered with a great variety of grasses, wild oats, and mustard.So rank is the grCMthof mustard in manyplaces, that it is withdifficulty that a horse can penetrate through it." [ibid, p. 318]

ca. 1848. William KellyQuestions Fremont·s description of the bay area' s climate. "The soil,I admit, is of an unsurpassing quality, madeup of constituentqualities and ingredients, capable of producing any crop only for theadverse operation of the seasons, whichkeep it saturated, and in mostplaces submergedin water, fram Novemberuntil April, rendering itphysically impossible to prepare the land, muchless to SCM the seedduring that period; and then before July it is so ~ and craqkedunder a hot and cloudless sun, that not only is all further vegetationarrested, but everything aboveground is crisped, and ready to fallinto powderat the touch; while the streams that might be supposedavailable for irrigation are, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred,completely dry. Thus there wouldbe only three monthsto plough andharrow, sowand reap -- a period infinitely too circumscribed for thematuration of any grain, and most vegetables." (Kelly: 1851, p.1S]

And, to finish these accounts on a rather mc:xiemrefrain, Kellyanticipates the California Native Plant Society with the followingobservation: "There is one national nuisance the valley is subjectto, which it is found next thing to ilnpossible to abate - I meanthewild mustard, which invades the richest pasturage, covering largetracts of teh choicest land, to the annihilation of all othervegetation; for it is of such rank growth, it attains a height of nineand ten feet, and its small intponderousseed is carried about by theslightest current of air. Fromexperiments, it has been ascertainedthat it could be destroyed by repeated cuttings downduring theseason; but as the germsare found to be carried about, and depositedwith the ordure of the cattle, all attempts, unless unanimouslyadopted throughout, must prove useless, where, in absence of allfences, the cattle of the indifferent manmaywanderover the groundsof his morepainstaking neighbour." [ibid. p. 323]

N.Copies of maps

1.

Father crespi, 1772. p. 1Gb(Galvin : 197+)

2.

Caiiizares, 1776. p. 17(Galvin : 1971)

3.

P.F. Petrus Font, 1777. p. 18(Font : 1911)

4.

!as Pulgas rancho plat, 1795. p. 19(Becker : 1964)

5.

Rancho Cafiada del Corte de Madera, n. d. p. 20(Stanford University : n.d.)

6.

D..1f1otde Mofras, 1840-1842. p. 21(D..1flotde Mofras : 1844)

7. Alan K. Brown's reconstruction of the vegetationcover in Palo Alto in the 1840s r

(Brown : 1963)p. 22

1834.

V. Biblioqraphy

I have divided the bibliography into two sections, primary and secorrlarysources. I hope this will facilitate use ani not cause unduecomplications; \the intent was to keep the narratives separate from thelater scholarly studies. In manycases, of course, the early narrativeswere not published until long after the events being described. I haveattempted to cite first editions or at least the earliest English languageeditions at Stanford, with exceptions in those cases where significantlydifferent material appears later. '!he call numberrefers to StanfordUniversity Libraries' holdings; ROCindicates a Rare BookCollectionlocation. Gunst is also in Special Collections.

Pr:iJnarvsources:

Beechey, Frederick william1831. Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific and Beering's strait

perfonned in his Majesty's Ship B1ossom..• in the years 1825,'26, '27, '28.london; Colburn & R. Bentley.•. 2 v.[G6501825.B411831ROC]

Belcher, Edward, sir1843. Narrative of a voyageround the world, perfonned in Her

Majesty's Ship SUlphur, during the years 1836-1842.•.london~H. Colburn. 2 v. [G420.B3ROC]

Bentham,George1844- '!he botany of the voyage of the H.M.S.SUlphur, under the1846. commandof Captain Sir FdwardBelcher during the years

1836-1842••london; Smith, Elder & Co. [581.9 H662ROC]

:Reporton someof the moreremarkablehardy ornamentalplants raised in the Horticultural Society's Gardensframseeds received fram Mr. DavidDouglasin the years 1831,1832, 1833. london~w. Nicol, 1834. [581.9794B476f ROC]

Bernard du Hautci11y, Auguste1929. OJ. Hautcil1y's account of California in the years 1827-1828.

(Translated by C.F. Carter)California Historical Quarterlv, v.8, p. 181-166, 214-250,306-336. [F856.C24]

Belton, Herl:>ertEugene.1930. Anza's California expeditions. 5 v. Berkeley; U.C. Press.

(V.2: diaries of Anza, Diaz, Garces, ani Pal6u; v.3: diariesof Anza, Font, ani Eixarch, ani narratives by Pal6u aniMoraga;and v. 4: Font's carrplete diary.) [979.4 B694a]

Bryant, Edwin1849. WhatI saw in California: being the journal of a tour •••

in the years 1846, 1847.Philadelphia; G.S. Appleton. [CSUG87-BS0232RBC]

Chamisso,Adelbert von1820. Ex p1antis in expeditione Romanzoffianadetectis genera tria

nova. Bonn. [582.C448g f ROC](This is also found as onepart of Neesvon Esenbeck, 1820)

1836. Reise tnn die Welt••• Leipzig. [Z239.G72C44f Gunst]

Costans6, Miguel1910. The narrative of the Portola expedition of 1769-1770.

Ed. by A. van Hemert-Engertand F.J. Teggert.Publications of the Academyof Pacific Coast History,v.1:4. [979.A168]

1911. The Portola expedition of 1769-1770;diary of MiguelCostans6. Ed. by F.J. Teggart. Publications of the Academyof Pacific Coast History, v. 2:4.

Crespi, Juan.1927. Fray Juan Crespi, missionary explorer on the Pacific coast,

1769-1774. Ed. by H.E. Bolton. Berkeley; [University ofCalifornia]

Douglas, David1836. Letter to sir W.J. Hooker, 23 Nov. 1831. Published ';;y

Hookerin Companionto the Botanical Maqazine,v. 2, pp.149-151. [QKI.C7ROC]

Duf10t de Mofras, Eugene, 1810-1884.1844. Exploration du territoire de 1'Oregon, des Californies, et

de 1a mer Vennei11e, executee perrlant 1es annees 1840, 1841et 1842.Paris; A. Bertrand. [CSUG87-B79036ROC]

Fages, Pedro, b. 17341911. Expedition to San Francisco Bayin 1770; diary of Pedro

Fages. Ed. by HeJ±lertEugeneBolton. Publications of theAcademyof Pacific Coast History, v. 2:3. U.C. Berkeley.[979.A168]

1937. A historical, political, and natural description ofCalifornia by Pedro Fages, soldier of Spain. Translated byH.I. Priestly. Berkeley; U.C. Press. [917.94 F153]

Font, Pedro, d. 1781.1911. San Francisco Bayand California in 1776; 3 maps, with

outline sketches reproduced in facsimile ••••Boston; MerrymountPress. [F864F67 f ROC]

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Font's c:arrp1etediary, a chronicle of the fourrling of SanFrancisco; translated fromthe original Spanish manuscriptand edited by H.E. Bolton. Berkeley, U.C. Press. [979.4F677b stacks]

1887.

Fremont, John Charles.1848. Geographical memoiruponUpperCalifornia in illustration of

his mapof Oregonand California addressed to the Senate ofthe united states. W~; Wendall & VanBenthuysen.[917.9 F872 RBC].

Meroc>irsof my life •• , including in the narrative fivejouneys of western exploration during the years 1842,1843-4, 1845-6-7, 1848-9, 1853-4.Chicago; Belford, Clarke & Co. [979.4 F872 RBCtransfer]

Galvin, John. (ed.)1971. '!he first Spanish entry into San Francisco Bay, 1775. San

Francisco; John Howell-Books. [F868.S156S2f RBC]

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IV. Journal of the Roval Horticultural Society of London,3:217-227. [634.06 RB8]

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in H.M.S.Blossom.•. in the years 1825, 1826, 1827, and1828. Included is a supplementlisting David Douglas'sCalifornia plants, pp 316-409. London;H.G. Bohn [QKS.B4RBC]

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straits, for the purpose of exploring a north-east passage,undertaken in the years 1815-1818,at the expense of HisHighness, CountRornanzoff,in the ship Rurick••• London;Longman,Hurst, Rees, Orme,and Brown. 3 v. (v.2 & 3 haveChamisso's obseJ:vations) [910.4 K87 RBC]

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