labour rate

PREFACE

On completion of the Sixth semester of Apparel Manufacturing & Information Technology - a Four year Apparel Production Under-graduate course students are exposed to an eight week industry internship with a garment manufacturing organization as part of their course curriculum.

The objective of this summer internship is aimed at blending the classroom principles with industry application. The other specific purpose includes:

Exposure to factory and office conditions.

Study of manufacturing processes thoroughly.

Understand inter and intra - departmental procedures.

Analyze different working procedures and write down problems and suggestions.

Understand industry expectations from a DFT student.

For this purpose we did our internship at Gokaldas images and are grateful to the management who granted their permission and opportunity for the same.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Ourselves, P.S.Shraddha and Radhika Ahlawat, students of four year Apparel Production course in Department of Fashion Technology, in National Institute of Fashion Technology,Hyderabad, for the partial fulfillment of our course, underwent a Summer Internship at Gokaldas Images, at its Sri Venkateshwara Garment Unit for eight Weeks.

For the same we would like to thank our course coordinator Ms. Sharmila Sure, without whose concern and efforts, this internship would never have been possible.

We are also highly grateful to Mr. Deepak Reddy, General Manager, Manufacturing Dept., Gokaldas Images, Head office, who granted us the permission to work as internees.

We would like to thank Mr. Bhimarao, Vice President, HR Dept., Gokaldas Images, Head office, who helped us during the project.

We would like to thank Mr. Prashanth, Factory Manager, Sri Venkateshwara Garment Unit, our mentor and guide throughout the Internship, who assisted us throughout our internship and made it a fine learning experience.

Apart from these, we would also like to thank the various workers and staff members who were there to assist us at every step and to answer our queries.

PART-1

1. INTRODUCTION

1.1 COMPANY PROFILE

Since its inception in 1979, Gokaldas Images (GI) has achieved sustained growth and crossed milestones, the present focus is however, is on achieving the same, within the organization- through its people, processes, culture and quality.

One of the biggest achievements for GI, is the internal integration of man, machine and thought into a single GI spirit. The existence of this spirit is what resonates and throbs inside the organization and its actions and efforts is what the world has seen as Gokaldas Images brand.

Flexibility in approach couples with agility in action has become GIs hallmark and it sets them apart in the borderless business world.

1.2 FACT FILE:

Gokaldas Images (GI), since 1979

GI

One of Indias largest integrated clothing corporations.

GI body

7 divisions in manufacturing, retailing and exporting.

GI domestic

70 exclusive retail outlets and over 200 selling points.

GI size

18 automated factories with 4800 machines.

GI turnover

Exceeds USD 70 million

GI life

9000 committed and highly skilled people.

1.3 GI DIVISIONS:

GI today stands equal to the worlds largest fashion houses, with its export operations organized into seven product- seven divisions that function as independent profit centers.

1.3.1 Fashion wear:

Products

Mens and boys shirts, trousers, casual summer jackets and shorts, ladies and girls dresses, skirts, trousers, embroidered and embellished tops, golf wear in woven fabrics.

Fabrics

Cotton and cotton blends, linen and linen blends, silk and silk blends, wool and wool blends, micro-polyester and polyester blends, yarn dyed, jacquards, computerized embroideries and prints.

Monthly capacity

2,50,000

1.3.2 Outerwear:

Products

Light weight summer jackets in nylons and other weather proof fabrics, heavy padded anoraks, woolen coats, windcheaters, parkas, athletic tanks, jogging suits, ski-suits, track suits, swim wear, shorts for men and boys, riding and hunting jackets.

Fabrics

Nylon and nylon blended fabrics, performance fabrics, fleece, micro-fiber polyester, moisture wicking fabrics, anti-bacterial fabrics, breathable polyester blends, faux suede in polyester and blends, light weight nylon.

Monthly capacity

100,000

1.3.3 Denim wearProducts

Embellished, washed, sand-blasted and sprayed jeans, jackets, shirts and dresses.

Fabrics

Light and heavy weight denims, canvas, drill and heavy twill.

Monthly capacity

75,000

1.3.4 Active Wear

Products

Mercerized polos, cut and sewn knits, ladies basic and fashion tees, knitted tops, moisture maintenance tees.

Fabrics

2/60s and 2/80s double mercerized knits, micro-polyester fibres, nylon and poly blends, rayon/cotton blended knits, single jersey and interlock, yarn dyed stripes and auto stripes, lycra blends.

Monthly capacity

250000

1.3.5 Lingeries

Products

Brassiere, panties, corset bras, support bras, athletic bras.

Fabrics

Cotton and cotton laces, nylon-spandex, stretch laces, micro-polyester blends.

Monthly capacity

200000

1.3.6 Women formal wear

Products

Ladies suits, trousers, skirts and dressesFabrics

Woolen and wool blends, polyester blends, silk, micro fibres, linen blends.

Monthly capacity

500001.3.7 Suits & Dress Pants

Products

Men suits, blazers, dress-shirts and trousers.

Fabrics

Woolen and wool blends, polyester blends, silk, micro fibres, linen blends, cotton and cotton blend, fine, solid dyed and yarn dyed shirtings.

Monthly capacity

90000

1.4 GI USA

With the globe shrinking and distances dwindling, thanks to jet age and computers, GI decided to be close to the client. The result was a a fully functional office and showroom in New York. A dedicated team in this Manhattan office works tirelessly to pre-empt and meet the client requirements.

1.5 COLLABORATIONS

Recognition of GIs effort in the global garment manufacturing scene came in the form of several international tie-ups.

BARBARA has a joint venture with GI to manufacture and retail lingerie in India and Europe.

PLAYTEX is a buy back agreement with Saralee Corporation.

K-LIFE is a license to produce urban clothing for USA.

OXFORD CLOTHING has a manufacturing agreement with GI for mens suits.

On the anvil is the extension of the same to formal wear.

LEVIS has a manufacturing agreement with GI, for denims in India.1.6 GI LOGISITICS

Bangalore, the manufacturing base of GI, has over a dozen direct freighter flights a week, landing at major European and American cargo hubs.

Chennai, a major port is just 6 hrs away by road.

1.7 GI INFRASTRUCTURE

18 specialized garment manufacturing facilities.

Six node lectra CAD/Cam facility.

All accompaniments for global electronic exchange of pattern data.

Stringent sampling and quality control systems.

In-house textile quality lab.

In-house washing facility.

In-house multi-head embroidery.

STM, AATCC, ISO and DIN standards followed

Single web-based information system connecting all operations.

1.8 GI RETAIL

Leveraging its core strengths in distribution, merchandising and image creation, GI introduced the concept of branded clothing, franchising and the open store, to Indian market WEEKENDER through its associate firm Personality Ltd. in 1987.

Weekender which focused on youth fashion was later extended to childrens wear, for the 2-12 years age group and branded as Weekender Kids. Every season Weekender and Weekender Kids launch more than 200 new styles. Both the brands today are retailed through two separate franchise chains in 70 exclusive outlets in cities across the nation. They are the leading brands in their segment, in size, brand appeal and influence on the market.

The domestic retail initiative of GI also includes licensed brands from Warner Bros. like Harry Potter, Tom & Jerry, Loony tunes and Mickey Mouse & Donald Duck from Disney. These ranges are conceptualized and manufactured in-house.

Gokaldas Intimatwear, is a joint venture with Barbara of Paris. The JV shall bring high quality ladies innerwear to the Indian market, with various brand offerings beginning with enamor.

1.9 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

GI combines the diverse strengths of the domestic handloom and other traditional skills with new international developments to produce an in-house fabric range for every season.

Equipped with state of the art CAD and other facilities, the GI Design and Resource Centre adds GI as a preferred source of original fabric, offering a rich variety of designs, blends and constructions, unavailable elsewhere.

1.10 GI WHERE COMPLIANCES ARE A GIVEN:

International human rights laws followed.

Strict compliance with anti-child labor laws.

Health insurance, pension and bonuses, gratuity, paid-medical leave and day care centre provided.

Minimum wages and overtime regulation.

Special cell under HRD o take care of grievances.

Fire drill and first aid training is provided at all facilities on regular basis.

Extensive biological effluent treatment plant.

Azo-free and environment friendly dyeing process.

The result is a certification and an approval from audit agencies and clients alike GI has been found to have compliant facilities by agencies like SGS, CSSC, ITS and Price Waterhouse Cooper.

1.11 GI CREATIVITY WITHOUT BORDERS

The shrinking marketplace, the constantly changing business environment and the ever-changing needs of the customers, have redefined the way they do business.

Backward integration, joint commitments, license agreements, extensive in-house R&D, and our flexibility, all stem from the corporate mission, creativity without borders.

1.12LOCATION

1.12.1 GI INDIA

7&12, Industrial Suburb, 2nd Stage,

Yeshwanthpur, Tumkur Road,

Bangalore-560022.

Tel: 91-80-3377059/60

1.12.2 GI USA

Suite 2704/05, 1400 Broadway,

New York

N.Y. 10018

Tel: 212-730-3950

1.13 FACTORY PROFILE

Factory name:

M/s Gokaldas Images

M/s Sri Venketeshwara Garments-I

No. 1-35/5/1, Ind. Suburb, Yeshwanthpur

N.H. 4, Tumkur Road,

Bangalore-560022

Telephone no.:

91-80-23379194

Fax:

91-80-23471757

Contact Person: Mr. Prashanth

Factory Manager

E-mail:

[email protected]

Total area:

8798 square feet

Product category that Trousers

can be handled by the Jackets

factory:

Denims

Product strength:

Jackets

Fabric handling

Capabilities:

.

1.14ORGANISATION CHARTORGANISATION CHART:

2. PROCESS FLOW

Buyer Orders

Finalization of Measurement Charts, Patterns and Styles Sheets ordered by Buyer

Sampling

Sampling Execution & Follow up

Costing

Sampling Shipments

Re sampling (If any rejections are received)

Sampling Approvals

Planning

Planning the time required for each of the processes involved in the execution

Raw material calculations as per average sheets, adding wastage/shrinkage at appropriate processes.

Raw material Procurement

Fabric requirements

Non fabric trims/ accessories requirements

Packing material requirements

Procurement of fabric and non fabric items and accessories

Approvals from buyer (if required)

Checking/inspection of raw material

Rejects

Resource planning

Manpower and machinery

Production line planning

Information clarity to production

Cutting

Instructions/Orders to the in-house Cutting Department

Calculation of the fabric requirement and checking the stock/availability once again

Issue of the fabric / Lining / Other Material etc.

Layering and Cutting

Bundling of cut pieces

Inventory of cut pieces/Bundles/Lots

Sewing

Stitch Orders/Instructions

Issue of cut pieces

Calculation of raw material requirements

Issue of raw materials

Approval of a few stitched pieces before regularizing the issue of fabrics/raw material

Issue of other things like samples / patterns / designs / other special considerations/ Measurement charts.

Reception of Stitched pieces Checking

Alteration (if required)

Finishing & Packing

Instruction/orders

Issue of pieces

Reception of finished and packed pieces

Checking

Rejects

Buying agent visits for inspection

Inspection comments

Re processing cycle

Shipment/dispatch

2.1 DURING THE PROCESS FLOW DIFFERENT MEETINGS ARE CONDUCTED2.1.1 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING

Objective To confirm that the order has been placed.

To discuss and confirm any issues that must be resolved.

Discuss any machine or attachment requirements.

Discuss any training requirements

Broad QuestionsWhat are the required machines and attachments.What sewing skill would need to be developed.

Are there any queries regarding the construction of the garment ?

Point person

Merchandiser

Chairperson

Merchandiser Manager

ParticipantsThe following persons should contribute to this meeting.

Additional people should be asked to attend when their expertise is required.

Merchandiser manager

Technical manager

Factory manager or Production manager

Industrial engineer

Merchandiser

Fabric technologist

Planning manager

Cutting room manager

QCTime Frame Within 3 days of an order being confirmed.

Pre-requisite

1. A sample garment or sketch.

2. A style file has been started.

3. Information on special requirements.(Printing, embroidery etc)

4. A BOM with all details.

5. Garment breakdown, machine and attachment requirements.

6. Production plan with number of teams required.

2.1.2 PILOT APPRAISAL MEETINGObjective To go through the first production and confirm that the required standards can be achieved in bulk

To confirm Go To Bulk.

To confirm trim and fabric consumptions

Broad Questions

Discuss all the raw materials

Colour coding and matching trims, etc.

Are measurements to specification.

Point person

Factory Manager

Chairperson

Technical Manager



Technical manager


Production Supervisor.

Industrial engineer

Fabric technologist


QC

Time FrameAs first pilot production is completed and before cutting Bulk.

Pre-requisite

1. Full style file.

2. First production garments fully complete with packaging, etc.

3. An approved sample is available.2.1.3 PRE PRODUCTION MEETINGObjective

To discuss the final style details.

To ensure that the product can be manufactured consistently in bulk production.Broad QuestionsAre all the required machiners and attachments in house ?

Do we have the required sewing skill.

Are all queries regarding the construction approved ?

Point person

Technical manager

Chairperson

Factory Manager



Technical manager

Factory manager

Floor in charge

Industrial engineer

Merchandiser

Fabric technologist

Planner


QC

Maintenance

Time FrameTwo weeks before the production start date.

Pre-requisite1. A garment has been made in the factory.

2. A complete style file including a technical pack.

3. An approved sample.

4. A BOM with all details.

5. Garment breakdown.2.1.4 START UP MEETINGTART UP MEETING:Objective To discuss the final details and raw material specifications .

To go through the trim card

Broad Questions

Discuss all the raw materials

Color coding and matching trims, etc.

Discuss the fabric inspection report.

Point person

Factory Manager

Chairperson

Merchandiser



Technical manager


Industrial engineer

Merchandiser

Fabric technologist

Planning manager


QC

Time FrameThree days before the production start date.

Pre-requisite1. All fabric and trims are in house, tested and available for use.

2. There are no technical issues outstanding.

3. An approved sample is available.3. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

At Gokaldas Images, the merchandising can be divided in two parts:

Marketing Merchandising

Product Merchandising

Marketing Merchandising

Main functions of marketing merchandising are:

Product development

Costing

Getting Purchase Orders

It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a direct access to the Buyer.

Product Merchandising

This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment.For each style the related merchandiser maintains a package file.

3.1 MERCHANDISERS PACKAGE FILE

1. List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file.

2. Tech pack.

3. CAD marker-costing and factory.

4. RMR-order wise and summary chart.

5. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier.

6. Confirmation of the trim.

7. Commercial invoices (C.I.).

8. Confirmation of the CI from the store.

9. Order chart from the buyer.

10. P.O. copies from the buyers.

11. Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics swatches.

12. Time and action calendar.

13. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may be required for future references (buyer related).

14. Mills fabric reports-checking, testing.

15. Internal fabric reports-checking, testing.

16. Buyer approved-

a. Trim card

b. Shade bands

c. Wash swatch/wash mocks

d. Embroidery/printing

17. Minutes of PP meeting.

18. Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production-either with PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails.

19. Size set-passed comments-(buyers).

20. Pilot-approval comments.

21. Internal quality audit reports before final inspection.

22. Packing list.

23. Invoice received from shipping department at Bombay for the purpose of shipment.

24. Dispatch details i.e. date LR Number dispatched to which CHA destination vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending factorys name.

3.2 MERCHANDISER IS REQUIRED TO CARRY OUT FOLLWING ACTIVITIES:

Design/Sampling. Fabric. Accessories. Testing. Production. Quality Check. Documentation. Shipping/Forwarding.

3.3 WORKING PROCEDURES

1. The orders are generally received on mail. The merchandiser has to take a hard copy of it. The merchandiser discusses the delivery date with GM-Merchandising and obtains his signature confirming the delivery date. All such mails signed copies are filed in a separate "'MASTER BOX FILE" titled "ORDER CONFIRMATION FILE" which is always with GM-M. During the same period the merchandiser also goes through all the details of order and verifies the "Order Calendar Book"2. The relevant documents i.e.

Tech Pack

Previous CAD marker

Trim charts

Fabrics cuttings

Thread approval

Embroidery or print approval- if any, from the respective SRS files that is available with the sampling department -headed by the Sampling Manager.

The Merchandising department basically acts like a bridge between the buyer and the factory. Its basic duty is to book orders from the buyers and make it sure that the orders are executed according to the buyers requirements in terms of style, construction, quality and quantity.

This is done by accurate communication between the buyer and the factory. Hence the merchandiser plays the part of communicating in the form of minute details, the requirements of the particular style.

3.4 GOALS SET UP BY THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:1. To ensure reduction in Customer complaints.

2. To ensure timely response and delivery to Customers

3. To work towards increase in the sample approval at first time.

4. To Reduce Associate turnover

3.5 BASIC ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE ON A DAY TO DAY BASIS REGARDING THE ORDER EXECUTION:

Receiving the order from Buyer and other relevant samples and product information. Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams. Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers. Follow-up of sample approvals from Buyers and notifying comments if any to respective teams. Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and follow-up for approval prior to the bulk production. Conducting External Pre Production meeting wherever applicable.3.6 ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE REGARDING THE INFORMATION FLOW TO THE RELEVANT DEPARTMENTS THROUGH MOVEX AND TECHNICAL FOLDERS, STYLE DETAILS:

Entering the order details pertaining to Merchandising. Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action Calendar) across throughput processes. Release of material requirements to sourcing function. Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time. Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs. Handing over the folders and style information to PPC on or before the PP meeting. Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.3.7 ACTIVITIES REQUIERED TO BE DONE FOR THE CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT OF THE PROCESS:

Improving the on time sample development and dispatch. Analyzing the Order completion reports and incorporating the learning in subsequent orders. Analyzing the Order completion reports and incorporating the learning in subsequent orders. Getting all the update on the product and quality areas by attending the seminars and through magazines for the better improvement.3.8 PROCESS FLOW FOR THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:

.

3.9 DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING SECTION

3.9.1 ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP:

This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with the information regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility and the setting up of delivery dates for the shipment.

There is a merchandising team dedicated for each buyer. For example there are separate merchandising teams for Armani Exchange, Abercrombie & Fitch etc.

Each of this merchandising team has a Senior Merchandiser. Under his guidance there is a team of 6-8 Junior Merchandisers. This team is further supported by 1or 2 Data Entry Operators and Office Coordinators.

This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyers representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic conversations.

The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments taking place regarding the order.

The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other departments.

3.9.2 PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS:

The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the particular order. This also includes the following :Fabric quality details

Thread Details

Finish Details

Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc.

Prints and Embroidery

Trims like buttons, zippers

Wash care labels

Size labels

Brand labels

Packing Material details

Hangtags

Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also receive the Fabric consumption per garment for each size from the sampling section, Thread consumption per garment from the Central Planning department and the accessories requirement per garment from the sampling department.

Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the requirement of all the parts going into the making of the garment. Each of the material is stated above is mentioned per garment.

This BOM is entered into the ERP package by the Data Entry Operators for access by the Purchase Department.

The BOM is used by the Purchase Department and the Fabric Sourcing Department to order the materials as per the order quantity.

3.9.3 PREPARATION OF TIME & ACTION CALENDER/PLAN;

The department prepares a tentative Time and Action Calendar for the activities like Sample development

Sample approval

Lab Dip approvals

Trims approvals

Accessories approval

Pre Production sample approvals

Cutting start date

Sewing start date

Embroidery start date

Finishing start date

Shipment dispatch date. The planned and actual dates of the TNA are entered into the sheet as and when the activities are carried out. Any deviations are looked into and the decisions are made. The buyer representatives are also regularly updated about the developments on the TNA and the order status.3.9.4 COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:

The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the sampling department. The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the relevant details. The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising department and the plan is given to the sampling section. The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are sent to the buyer for approvals only when they are approved by the merchandising department. The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising about the types of samples required by the buyer. The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes made in all the required areas.3.9.5 GETTING APPROVALS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES FOR THE GARMENT:

Once an order is booked, Order Clarity Meeting is conducted to understand the requirements in detail. Samples are prepared and send to customer for approval. Similarly, throughout the production activities, the interaction with customer is made as explained bellow.

Fabric Approvals: We get the approval from customer for the fabrics sourced for manufacturing garments. In some cases, the buyer certifies the supplier base, and we procure the materials from them.

Yarn Dyed program: In case of yarn dyed order yarn lab-dip has to be sent to the buyer for color approval. Upon confirmation, knit down approval has to be taken from buyer where specified.

Solid dyed program: Lab-dip fabric color approval is taken from the buyer. Depending on the buyer bulk lot cutting shall be sent to buyer for approval or for reference as advised.

Printed fabric Program: In case of the Printed fabric the base fabric lab- dip is submitted to buyer and print artwork/design and print color approval shall be taken before proceeding with the bulk.

Fabric Package Test: These are buyer dependent and mostly taken care by third party labs. All the tests that are required by the buyer or the buyers SOP [Standard Operating Procedures] has to be passed, failing which waiver has to be obtained from buyer for the same.

Shade Band Approval: This is special requirement for all garments dyed with pigment dyes, or topped with pigments, for garments with enzyme washing or spray. The approval is taken by the buyer.

Embroidery / hand work: Approval for thread color, sequence color, bead color and quality parameters are taken from the buyer.

Accessories Approval: All trims and accessories which are going in the garments are got to be approved by the buyer.

3.10 INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED BY THE BUYER:

The Technical Folder/Techpak is the reference for each department whenever it comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all the buyers:

Size wise quantity

Color Wise Quantity

Destination wise quantity

Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots

Process development sheets which include-

Style analysis report

Buyer

Style no.

Style description

Total order quantity

Process sequence- listing out the order of the activities to be done i.e. cut, panel wash or garment wash, panel print/embroidery or garment print/embroidery

Fabric details-

GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment

Fabric construction

Fiber types

Fabric width

Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description

Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)

Fabric swatch

Sewing details-

Stitch SPI for all the parts of the garment

Stitch distance for all the seams e.g. distance of the top stitch, distance of bottom hem from the bottom

Single needle or double needle operation for all the seams

Stitch no.

Gauge and bight for overlock machines

Sewing thread details-

Ticket no. of threads for each operation

Thread color

Thread type i.e. construction

Nominated supplier if any

Pattern details-

Size of ready garment at all the required areas

Size of all the patterns

Technical drawing of the garment, with important points mentioned in the diagram.

Accessories required in the garment-

Nominated supplier if any

Accessories like satin tapes need to undergo color fastness tests, so the quality requirement is also mentioned.

Position of the accessories on the garment in terms of measurements and alignments

Trims required in the garment-

Type and dimensions of all the trims e.g. length of the zipper, material of the zipper (metal or plastic).

Positioning of trims on the garment, mentioned in writing and diagrammatically as well.

Color and finish of the trimDescription of the labels-

Text to be written on the labels is specified by the buyer.

The font size and font style for the text on the labels

The material of the various labels

Types of labels required i.e. Wash Care Labels, size labes, brand labels

Positioning g of the labels on the garment with dimensions mentioned on a diagram of the garment.

Type of stitch used to attach labels

Finishing details-

Type of iron to be done( e.g. some garments require only a mild touch up and the original fall of the garment is allowed to come.

A mention about the finishing quality (e. g. only steaming requires that there should be no shade variation, seam / water marks, seam impressions showing on the garment.

Presentation labels and hangtags which are attached on the garment before packing.

Position of the attached hangtags and size labels on the garment

Final look of the packet after packing.

AQL level to be followed while inspection in the finishing section

Packing details-

Details regarding the type of packing material to be used

No. of garments in each poly bag or any other kind of pre-pack.

Written material on the packing material

Size of the poly bags and the cartons

No. of garments/pre-packs to be kept in each carton.

3.11 RECORDS AND FORMATS MAINTAINED IN THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

S.No.FORMAT /DOCUMENT NAMEPURPOSE OF USE

1Sample Evaluation reportThis report is maintained for all the samples evaluated and inspected by the merchandisers. It has the records of all the comments and changes suggested.

2Internal Approval Swatch CardThis is a general Swatch Card which is used to attach the fabrics used for the styles and orders after their approvals from the buyers. There are three swath cards from the fabric are maintained from three places in the fabric roll.

3Sales Order DocumentationThe merchandisers maintain a record of all the sales orders raised for the procurement of all the materials for the order. One of the most important job of the merchandiser is to follow up the status of the materials which have been ordered, to ensure the timely availability of the materials to the production.

4Consumption confirmation chartThis chart is made by taking the consumption details from the sampling department for all the sizes in the style of the order. These consumption details are obtained from the CAD markers. The consumption is in terms of Kg. of fabric required for all the fabric types in the garment.

5Material RequisitionThis format is filled up by the merchandiser and sent to the fabric stores for requesting material for sample development. If the material is not available, the fabric sourcing team is informed the quantity and quality required.

6Sampling Job Order.This is a formal order raised to the Sampling department instructing the quantity and types of samples to be made for the styles. The tentative dates for sample preparation are also mentioned and the reference numbers for al the Technical Folders is mentioned.

7Minutes of Order Clarity MeetingThe Head Merchandiser conducts an Order Clarity Meeting. Here all the details of the order booked are provided to the Factory. The OCM minutes are maintained by each merchandiser for future reference in case of some discrepancies arising in between the merchants and the factory. ( i.e. Production related departments)

8Delivery Challan (D.C.)The merchandising delivers the samples made to the buyers representatives. For the same purpose, a DC is made in which is listed the details of the order no., style no., no. of garments and color. This is a formal procedure for transferring goods from one place to another.

9Garment hangtagsAll the hangtags required in the garment are maintained by the merchandiser as a separate file. They are the ones which come in the company for the sampling procedure and the order is placed only after their approval.

10Inter office MemoThis is a common document used by every department. In cases where some communication needs to be made to other departments, the sheets are manually written and carried by the Office Assistant.

11Sampling cost sheetThe costs incurred while sampling is maintained in this document.

3.12 FORMATS AND MATERIALS RECEIVED BY THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

S.NoFORMAT/MATERIALPURPOSE OF USE

1Size set and pilot run reports.

The size set and pilot run reports deal with all the points worth listing for the garment. This includes the measurement details for all the parameters as well as the quality tests according to the buyers requirements.

2Tech Packs

The Tech packs are the guidelines provided by the buyer for the garment construction and raw material sourcing. As already stated in the details of the Technical Folder, all the information can be obtained from this. It is provided by the buyer to the merchandiser.

3Purchase orders

Purchase orders are a formal announcement of the order booked by the merchandiser for the factory. This has all the details of the order quantity, shipment dates and destination. The style numbers, item numbers and the Movex numbers are mentioned by the company.

4Buyer Original Samples

The samples which are used as the reference for constructing samples by the company are provided by the buyer. The sourcing team also works out the fabric details and the finish of the garment from the samples.

5Customer Complaint Details

The merchandiser maintains the complaint details for every sample and every order dispatched coming under his buyer.

6Shipment details

The dates, mode of shipment, mode of payment, Letter of Credit details and destination of shipment are provided to the merchandiser by the Dispatch department.

7Sampling Development file

The sample department maintains this file and sends the copies to the merchandiser concerned.

4 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENTGarment manufacturing is a labor intensive industry. Research has shown that in any sewing floor, only 20-30% of time is utilized by the machine and rest goes in manual handling. This means in order to improve productivity faster machines will not bring significant difference, but it is the method engineering which can bring significant benefit.

4.1. Functions of Industrial Engineering Department:

To understand the production capacity of the factory, and to draw up plans for an appropriate target output, suitable range of divided labor and optimum production.

To investigate the level of individual skills.

To determine the time value for each work component under the motion study. This supports improvements and standardization.

For use as a yardstick in evaluation of the operation.

To draw up plans and make estimates for a change of product or for the construction of new orders.

To obtain an evaluation standard for the order receiving, planning using the time study as the basis of control.

To use the basic order for determining the unit cost manufacturing and the wage rate.

For use as the basis for introducing a production control system.

Take note of time period required for executing the order.

To make the adequate machines available for making the style.

To study the time complexities in the garment.

Depending on the above, decide the feasibility of the manufacture of the garment.

Coordinate with the production and merchandising departments.

To develop operation bulletin (OB) for every new style.

To develop the new style requirement (NSR) sheet for the style.

4.1.1 Time study:

It is a work measurement technique for recording the times and rates of working for the elements of a specified job carried out under specified conditions, and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for carrying out the job at a defined level of performance.

After doing the time study, improvements are made on the basis of time values and based on which gives targets to the workers.

This consists of

Breaking down of the work into minute work components.

Recording the time required to finish the work.

4.1.2 Record keeping

Daily production report

Unit wise and style wise report.

Daily finishing report.

Weekly production report.

Production summary.

Operating production chart

Efficiency chart for analysis

Attendance chart

Target charts for styles

4.2 IE Department in Factory:

The IE department in the factory is assigned the following jobs-

Method Implementation in the batch.

To maintain the methods of the operation performed in the batch as implemented by GSD.

Follow-up on low output operators. Finding out reason for low efficiency and solving the problem to increase performance and productivity.

Off-standard & On-standard work details calculation

Maintaining Target stickers for each operation.

Issuing and maintaining gum sheets of each operator.

Finding out hourly production.

Size-wise loading and output calculation.

Generating Daily production report and style-wise efficiency report.

To conduct Time study of each operator at pre-fixed intervals.

Capacity report generation.

Create and update skill matrix of each operator & submit the same to personnel department.

Assist in Factory planning.

4.3 Operator production sheet

Operator production sheets are maintained for each operator. Each operator is given a gum sheet in which he/she can fill in the number of bundles and pieces that he/she completed during that particular hour. This helps in bundle tracking, WIP and efficiency estimation of the particular operator.

Gum sheets are issued to the batch as soon as the batch is loaded and it has to be signed by the Supervisor and AAMT after each hour.

4.4 Target Sticker

Target sticker is prepared taking into consideration the SAM and the operation concerned. It consists of target efficiency and target production that the operator must achieve.

4.5 Hourly Production Report

Hourly production report is maintained by the IE department. Each operators opening and closing WIP is maintained after each 2 hours. Thus, production is constantly monitored for each 2 hours. WIP is also monitored and thus operators lagging behind in certain operations and thus accumulating WIP can be found out and preventive measures be taken.

4.6 Daily Production Report

The IE department is also supposed to maintain a daily production report for each line. This report keeps track of pieces loaded, color and SAM, Production and total SAM earned that day. This is maintained everyday and thus gives a brief overview of how the factory performed on any particular day.

4.7 Style Wise Efficiency Report

Style wise production report is also maintained by the IE department. It keeps a track of the number of pieces loaded, number of pieces produced, WIP, SAM earned, style and factory efficiency. This is reviewed by production manager who can thus get a crisp view of which line is lagging in production and efficiency.

4.8 Skill Matrix

In Gokaldas Images six grades are given to operators i.e. A+, A, B+, B, C+, C,.

They are assigning following three grades on the basic of type of operations they do. For both top and bottom garment the operators are given these three grades.

NOTE:

1. Grade A+

Almost all operations of A category & performance

5 to 6 operations of B category.

2. Grade A

Minimum of 6 to 8 operations of A category.

5 to 6 operations of B category

4.8.1 FOR TOPS:Grade A- OperationsGrade B- OperationsGrade C- Operators

Att n/b collar with patternAttach yoke & edge stitch yoke (manual & folder)Run stitch neck band

Set sleeve placket & stitch arrowAttach main lable to yokeRun stitch neck band

Set sleeve placket & stitch arrowAttach main lable to yokeRun stitch collar (profile)

Match & run collarHem front placketHem cuff or pocket

Close collarAttach fashion placketClose flap at bottom

Close cuff (folder)Run stitch collar, cuff & flapsLocking operations

Attach front placket (kansai / DNLS)T/S collar, shoulderStay stitch or gathering

Hem bottom (Manual)Join shoulder (Manual &folder)Sew pleats

Top stitch sides (FOA)Hem side slitOverlock small parts

Top stitch sides (DNLS)Hem sleevePrepare main label & W/C label

Attach pocketAttach side seam

Overlock side seam & arm hole

Sew darts (manual)

4.8.2 FOR BOTTOMGrade A- OperationsGrade B - OperationsGrade C - Operations

Attach lining to bodyAttach main lable to yokeJoin waist band

Attach cargo pockets (SNLS)Sew for front pleats (shapes)Attach waist band to inner nylon

Attach cargo pockets (DNLS)Sew for back pleatsOverlock slit (front)

Attach cargo pockets (DNSB)Side seam lock stitchAttach side label & size lable

Welt pocketsSide seam overlockOverlock right fly

Top stitch upper and lower weltTop stitch side seamStay stitch zipper

Attach waist band to bodyHem bottom (folder)Stay stitch bottom

Close waist bandHem bottom (manual)Flap close (ready) stitch

Attach and close waist band (folder)Sew dart (knotting)Hem pocket

Finish waist band (Ditch stitch)Overlock front(side)Attach facing to pocket bag

J- StitchAttach zipper to the frontPrepare waist band loops

Attach pocketsAttach zipper to the liningOverlock rises

Hem bottom (blind)Edge stitch waist bandHem pocket facing

Close inseam (FOA with folder)Below pieces Tack waistband

Attach loops to waist bandTop stitch flap

Lock waist band edgesDraw cord prepration

Run stitch flaps

Top stitch pocket

Attach flap to front

Join back rise

5. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Sampling is basically the process of producing some few garment pieces in order to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style, etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the buyer.

When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alterations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made and approved by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on.

Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.

5.1 Functions of the sampling department:

The sampling department performs the following functions:

Develops samples and size-set for given order enquiry as mentioned in the sampling indent issued by the merchandising department.

Calculates fabric and trim consumption for the garment.

Develops and rectify patterns as per buyer requirements and comments.

Develops salesman sample, proto sample and fit samples.

Maintain records for sample development for various buyers.

Maintain sampling status and maintaining the same from time to time.

Develop embellishments and embroideries as per buyer requirement.

5.2 Process Flow:

5.3 Types of sample:

Proto-sample: - Proto-sample is made out of substitute fabric and substitute trims. Its the first sample send to the buyer to get the idea to the garment. It is also known as development sample. Four copies of proto-samples are made:

One is send to the buyer.

One is send to Buying House.

One is send to the merchandiser or Mumbai head office.

One is kept in sampling department.

The samples are send along with the sample submit sheet. The proto-sample is further worked upon to get the 2nd proto-sample according to the buyer comments received.

Fit-sample: - These samples are made to check the fit of the garments.

Size-set sample: - All the sizes of a particular style are made and send to the buyer. Size set samples are used for checking the grading. Five samples of each size are made for the size-set sample.

Pre-production sample: -This is made after the approval of style to be produced in bulk. This is made with actual fabric and in actual trims. Four PP samples are made.

Sealer sample: -This sample is made after the pre production sample with changes (if any) or no change and sealed so that the production can be started. It accompanies a package which contains following reports Fabric package test report.

Garment package test report.

Shrinkage report.

5.4 Working Procedure:

The package file is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are handed over to the sampling manager, CAD in charge, sampling technician and the sampling QA in charge.

The pattern request is received from the merchandiser by the sampling manager for the following samples:

Proto Sample

Second Proto Sample

Fit sample

PP sample

Size set sample

Sealer sample

TOP sample

Shipment Sample

The weekly plan is then generated based on the requisition received from the merchandiser and it is handed over to the sampling coordinator, CAD in charge, merchandiser and the sampling QA in charge.

The pattern cum sample requisition is given to the sampling coordinator by the sampling manager for manual patterns as per the buyer requirements.

The CAD in charge receives the package file from the sampling coordinator and after discussion with the sampling manager and the technician the package file copy is handed over and discussed with the concerned pattern maker.

The pattern maker after discussing with the technician makes the patterns according the details in the package file and hand over the patterns to the CAD in charge.

After the patterns are received by the CAD in charge, they are checked and are handed over to the CAD operators for digitizing, grading and adding shrinkage to the patterns.

The patterns along with the cutting plan are then handed over to the sampling coordinator who in turn hands them over to the cutters.

The requisition is raised for the fabric and accessories by the sampling coordinator and given to be signed by the sampling manager.

The feeding helpers do the loading as per the requisition of accessories and fabric to the cutters and tailors

The thread consumption is prepared and given to the sampling manger by the sampling coordinator from which the thread consumption chart is generated. This is done using the meter. The meter is attached to the sewing machine and the garment is stitched. The meter gives the amount of thread consumed (in meters). They then prepare the Thread Consumption Report. This report contains the details Type of stitch, Stitching length, SPI, Consumption per meter. This is filled for all the stitches in the garment.

After receiving the fabric, the QA in charge holds a meeting with all in-line and end-line QAs before the style starts.

Cutting and stitching of samples is then started.

Measurement audit reports of in-line and end-line QAs are checked and the final inspection report of samples is generated for the finished samples.

The sampling manager discusses with the merchandiser for the rejected samples and records them.

The approved samples are handed over to the merchandiser with comments. In case of any clarification required regarding the samples the merchandiser is contacted.

The sampling procedure taking place at the various stages of sample development in The Gokaldas Images is as follows:

The base patterns are prepared in the head office at Tumkur Road and a proto sample is made in the sampling division at the head office and sent to the buyer for approval. Proto samples are usually made on the substitute fabrics and with the trims that are available in order to develop the style. Once the buyer approves the proto sample, a fit sample is made in order to develop the fit of the garment, usually done on substitute fabrics and it is then sent to the centralized sampling unit along with the base patterns.

Using the base patterns, proto samples, fit samples and the alterations as mentioned by the buyer. As the order is confirmed and the merchandiser receives the purchase order from the buyer, four pieces are produced in the base size which is the actual representation of the style. All the trims and fabric used are as per the tech-pack and all the corrections are incorporated in these samples. The distribution of these samples is as follows:

One sample goes to the buying office from where the orders are placed.

One sample goes to the buyer.

One sample goes to the concerned factory where production has to take place.

Pre-production sample acts as the sealer sample which hangs on the production floor to be used as a reference.

After the pre-production samples are approved a size-set is made on the actual production line in which five samples in each size is produced and sent to the buyer for approval.

After the size set pilot run is performed on the actual production line in order to acquaint the operators with the design and all the production related issues and difficulties are sorted out at this stage. The pilot run is performed to develop a set of samples in each size and each color.

6. CAD DEPARTMENT

Merchandiser sends an indent to the CAD department requesting for markers and patterns with required details. A marker is produced considering the width, shrinkage to finally know the fabric consumption. Bulk production markers are prepared to economize the fabric consumption. Lectra systems is used to develop the markers and patterns.

Functions:

Make production markers as per the production plan (i.e. according to the size ratio given by the ratio planner).

Make mini markers for consumption at the sampling stage.

Do digitizing, grading, and pattern making

Maintain record markers.

6.1 PROCESS FLOW

7. TRIMS STORE

7.1 FUNCTIONS Receive the accessories from supplier (Domestic/International) and to store.

Maintain basic stock and maintain smooth flow of material.

To check the quality as per standard and quantity received from the supplier.

Rational use of accessories and accountability for the authentic use.

Coordinate with different departments for the accessories.

Coordinate with supplier, Merchandiser, and Purchase department.

Keep the dead stock maintain, if accessories having Buyer/brand name then destroying it.7.2 Units for Measurement of Accessories:

NameUnit

ButtonsPer gross

LabelPer piece

ZipperPer piece

TasselPer piece

Card boardPer piece

CartonPer piece

Bar code stickerPer piece

HangerPer piece

ElasticPer meter

VelcroPer meter

ThreadPer meter

InterliningPer meter

FusingPer meter/Yard

Packing tapePer roll

Poly bagPer Kg.

Draw boardPer kg.

Paper (drawing sheet for pattern)Per Rim

7.3 Process Flow

7.4 Standard Operating Procedure

All the Trims like, Zippers, Buttons, Snaps, various types of Labels, Threads, Tapes, Draw cords, Elastics, D Rings are to be checked at the receiving point for Quantity & Quality. This has to be done O.C. # / P.O. # wise and item wise.

Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. Incoming goods to be stored here.

Allot area for Inspected O.K. Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.

Allot area for Rejected goods (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here and to be disposed off as per instructions.

Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Table with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.

Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted separately as per instructions. )

Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the Display Board provided.

All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to be audited. Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and circulated to the specified staff for necessary action.

7.5 Trims Inspection:

1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and ensure that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the concerned for necessary action.

2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up etc., as per Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as per specification to see that shade variation, bleeding do not take place. In case of deviation, take it up with the concerned for necessary action.

3. Measurement check: Check the items for measurement to ensure they confirm to specification.

4. After ensuring that everything is O.K., make the Trim Card in specified sets and get it approved by concerned Marketing Staff and issue it to the concerned.

5. Issue the materials to the Factory concerned as per O.C. / P.O. copy and as specified along with Trim Card.

7.6 Trims Store In the Factory:

Trims and Accessories Stores at Factories have to make the Quantity check for all the Items they receive from the Main - Trims & Accessories Stores. Copies of the Test results are to be received from the Main Stores along with the consignment for reference. In case, the Tests are not conducted at the Mains stores, Factory should organize for all the necessary tests and keep the records for reference.

First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains various details such as the Sample Date, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR.

The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left to receive.

There are 2 parts to the trims store.

Stitching Part

Packing Part

The stitching part is executed first. A copy of the RMR is firstly sent to main stores. The main trim store then sends the trims as per the ordered quantity with a Delivery Challan.

When the trims are received, the unit checks them and makes an Inward Challan. 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations.

The trims store head maintains a Daily Status Report of the trims that are issued from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. This is maintained for the internal reference of the trims store.

The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself. Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims store.

However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of Labels and Shrinkage test for Elastic. Only 1 roll or 1 box in the whole quantity of the labels received is inspected.

Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages.

If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more defects are found, then another 100 are checked.

In this 100 again if 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected.

In case of 100 labels,

40 defective are acceptable.

50 are unacceptable.

And 40-50 are in the decision making process.

The rejected in then sent back to the main store. If the trims are accepted they are then issued t the production line.

There are many types of labels that are used in the production:

Main Label has the buyers name.

Content Label contains the content of the fabric.

Size Label size of the garment is specified

Tab Label has the logo of the buyer.

ID/Wash care Label has the wash care instructions for the garment

For Elastic, the shrinkage test is carried out by the trims store:

In this they measure 1m of the elastic and mark it.

This elastic is then dipped in water for 15-20 mins.

It is then dried naturally.

Then the elastic are measured again.

Then the shrinkage is calculated using the formula:

Shrinkage (%) = [After wash Before wash)/before wash] *100 The report is made and sent to the merchandiser. The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following details are present

Fabric swatch

Matching thread for the fabric

fabric color

fabric code

Button

Button matching thread

This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then approved from the buyer and signed.

It should be not known that the buttons are of different shades (in case they are accepted) and hence, they are stuck to the chart at the backside.

The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is held between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head, Production coordinator and the cutting department head.

In this meeting it is decide as to which color and style has to be cut first for production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which style and color the trims are available for production.

After the meeting is over, the production starts. The cutting section then sends a Slip. This slip contains the details Cut no, Size, Sr no, Lot no, Qty, Shrinkage, Shade.

This is taken by the feeding helper who maintains a register called the Cutting Book. All the details of the slip are copied into this book, except the Shrinkage. The helper also fills in the time.

The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details material, Qty indent (required), qty issued and the dept.

The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty.

The trim store head also maintains a Stock Ledger.

As soon as the materials are received, the left side of the ledger is filled up. Details Date, Received from, DC No, PO No, IC No, Total receipts

As soon as the materials are issued to the lines, the right side of the ledger is filled up. Details Date, Issued to (line no), Regd Sr No, No of Pcs supplied, Balance left.

After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked.

The trims store also maintains Bin Card. The bin card contains the details of the trims that are being stored in the rack, how much is issued and the balance. Details Date, Received Qty, Date, Line no., issued qty, Balance.8. FABRIC STORE

Gokaldas Images has a centralized main fabric store located at Tumkur Road. All fabric and interlining is received by the main fabric store and distributed further to various units according to required quantity. All the units have fabric sub stores located in the unit itself.

The fabric main store consists of a fabric in charge, godown in charge, fabric checker, fabric QC, QA executive, stores assistant, computer operator, DTP operator and fabric assistants.

8.1 Functions of Fabric Store:

The basic functions of the fabric store are: Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production.

Storage of dead stock.

Maintain basic stock.

Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department.

Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting Department.

Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and no shortage.

Report maintained in the fabric department.

Maintain inspection reports.

Maintain inwards/outwards D.C.

Approval reports about shade variation, width etc.

Lab reports as inspection, GSM value, fastness, shrinkage etc

Fabric status file

8.2 Physical Testing & Inspection:

Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects based on the total number of defects found during inspection of a sample as a basis for acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty points are assigned base on the standard fault. For every type of fault colored stickers are put, to identify serious defects in the subsequent process.

8.3 Four point Inspection systems:

Fault SizePoint AssignedSticker color

0 to 3 inches1Yellow

3 to 6 inches2Green

6 to 9 inches3Blue

9 & above4Red

Acceptance/rejection of fabric:

Penalty points found per 100 meterAction

40 points in power loom fabricAccept the lot

30 points in mill-made and imported fabricAccept the lot

40 60 points in power-loom fabricSubstandard lot

More than 30 points in mill-made & in imported fabricRejection of lot

More than 60 points in power-loom fabricRejection of lot

8.4 Common Fabric Defects Found Are:

Weaving Defects: Missing picks

End out,

Mixed filling

Mixed ends

Dropped pick

Slubs

Yarn distortion

Weft bar

Pattern fault

Dobby faults

Stop marks

Smash

Holes, etc.

Dyeing/printing/finishing Defects:

Bowing

Color Bleeding

Puckering

Stains

Skewed or biased

Selvedge variation

Scrimp etc.

8.5 Main Fabric Store:

Check for the variations in the fabric.

Physical testing for defects, shades and width variations.

Approval, rejection or sub standardization of fabric lot.

Classification of fabric in various shades

Coordination with store, vendor, merchandiser and Fabric Processing Departments.

Preparation of swatches mentioning shades and their respective quantity.

The Fabric Audit dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check.

The fabric (1 bit) =60*60 cm. Then on that they mark 50*50 send it to washing dept. in washing the real shrinkage measure. An Audit check list is maintained in this section in which all the details of fabric flow right from delivery to inspection to dispatch to various units is recorded. Fabric in charge, QAE and Auditor are accountable for upholding of this check list.

The fabric is issued, stored and inspected in the main stores. The fabric is issued from here to all the other GI units.

First of all the merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the fabric sub store head. The required number of pieces (garments) is given in the sheet.

After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is given.

After this the sub store in-charge receives the Fabric Width and Shade Report. Thus according to the various shades, the fabrics are separated shade wise.

Then the merchandiser sends the Lab Test Report and Shrinkage Report. This contains the results of the tests that are carried out in the unit lab.

Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This contains the inspection details of the fabric. This report also shows the status of the fabric.

The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the merchandiser. This is also called the YY Sheet. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric required per garment (yy = meters/garment).

Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric details (Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The in-charge calculates the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste percentage.

2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the rejection of garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores.

This chart is sent to the merchandiser and the required quantity of the fabric is ordered.

8.6 Standard Operating Procedures:

The stores should have the following designated area:-




Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. (Incase, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted separately as per instructions.)

Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Fabric Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.

8.7 Fabric Receipt:

On receipt of Fabric in Ware house, the Fabric had to be checked against the P.O. #. / O.C. #. (Purchase order No. or Order confirmation No.) to ensure that it is the right item with right quantity as compared to order quantity, number of Rolls / Bales , Color etc. These items are to be stored separately in specified racks after entering these items in the Stage software and prepare necessary Goods Receipt Note. Inform shortages / Excess quantity received to Fabric Department and the Supplier concerned for necessary action. If the supply exceeds 105 % of the order quantity, organize to return the excess quantity to the Supplier.

8.8 Fabric Inspection - 4 Point system:

The Fabric received are to be checked using 4 Point system by using the Fabric checking machine or Table. As far as possible avoid use of Tables for checking. Display the various types of defects for easy reference of the Checker. The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like Mill made , Power Loom and Hand Loom vary and hence use the right criteria ( points ) as specified by Buyer / Fabric Department. A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection) are to be checked. If the defect level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the Rolls may be inspected after getting approval from concerned.

Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable) and the criteria points per sq. yard / meters for passing the rolls / bales as accepted or rejected.

Utilize SPC technique for Inspection of Fabric and prepare U chart for all the lots inspected. Display the defects like, Bowing CSV, End to end shade variation, Defect Standards etc and Acceptable and Not Acceptable.

In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they are to be stored in the specified rack marked Rejected Items. Follow the procedure, laid out for returning the rejected items to the Supplier.

Raise the Goods Inspection Note for the passed items as specified. Store the Fabric with proper Identification Tag (containing details like O.C. No./ P.O. No., date of receipt, Delivery note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales, Shade details , Type of Fabric, Supplier details etc.). Office records should record the Rack number, where the item is stored for easy trace ability.. Single item should be kept in single rack location and never mix up fabrics of different O.C.s / P.O.s.

Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply, highlight it, to take necessary action.

Samples for Shade Band:

Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./ Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt , width etc. Mark grain direction. Make shade band of the Rolls received and accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of shade Bands for distribution as specified to Marketing and Factories. Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric Manager / Buyers Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A, shade B etc). Use Light Box with specified Light for shade segregation.

If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are marked separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for revised Pattern Layout.

8.9 Samples for Laboratory Testing:

Cut 1 meter length of fabric from each lot, mark Grain direction and sent it to Laboratory to conduct the following test.

1. Shrinkage Test.

2. Color Fastness test.

3. Rubbing Test - Dry & Wet.

4. Count & Construction.

Record the Test results and file the Test certificate. Issue one copy of Test certificates to Marketing department for their action.

8.10 Storing and Issue to Factories:

Based on the above information from Lab and Marketing, it is preferable to segregate the Rolls / Bales in various Shades and Group Shrinkage percentage wise and store them in the specified Racks with proper Identification Tag. This procedure is useful to avoid mix-up of various shades and shrinkage bands. The stores register should contain all the relevant details along with the Rack no, (where it is stored).

While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation wise. Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.

8.11 Maintenance of Machines:

All machines used in the Fabric ware house like, Fabric Inspection machine etc should carry Maintenance card and Preventive Maintenance card duly filled in.

9. FABRIC STORE AT FACTORIES:

9.1 Process Flow

9.2 Operating Procedure:

The stores should have the following designated area:-




Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Fabric Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux. Whenever the lighting level decrease, change the Tube light bulbs.

9.2 Fabric Receipt:

Check & compare the Fabric quality & quantity received with Delivery Note against each O.C. #. / P.O. #. and inform the deviations to the concerned. Record the receipt along with storage location. Check the actual rolls / bales with the Shade band card came along with the Fabric. If required prepare Shade band card for the with details of roll number, length, shade number and issue it to Cutting section and other sections concerned for their reference. Store the material in Racks with proper Identification Tag as mentioned earlier. The Fabric receipt register to have the location of the Rack, where the fabric is stored. Under no circumstance, the Fabric should be kept on Floor.

The following Test / Inspection procedure to be followed - O.C / P.O. wise - for the Fabric Rolls / Bales received for easy trace ability.

7.3 Fabric Inspection:

If the Fabric already under went 4-point inspection system in Fabric Ware house, collect and keep the copy of Inspection report & copy of Test results for all the Rolls / Bales received. If Fabric is not inspected using 4 point system, organize for Inspection as mentioned earlier. Display the type of defect and their acceptance level wherever required for each and every O.C / P.O. Inform the Test results of the Fabric received to all concerned for necessary action. Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable)

7.4 Shrinkage Test - (Rigid Fabric Wash Program)

1. Shrinkage Test to be conducted for 10 % (Random selection) of the Rolls / Bales (unless otherwise specified).

2. Cut swatches from the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 28 inches x 28 inches. It is preferable to use Metal Template # 1, for cutting the swatches.

3. Identify the Face side and back side. Mark the Roll #, O.C. / P.O. # date received on the back side of the swatch. Mark

4. Make 25 inches square Metal Template # 2. Mark horizontally and vertically on the sides of the square. The length of lines may be 2 inches more or less at the center of the sides. This means the distance between horizontal lines, and the distance between verticals should be equal to 25 inches.

5. Bartack on the lines which are at 25 x 25.

6. Over lock the edges of the swatch panels.

7. Wash the Swatch panel as per the Wash Standard given in the Technical Specification manual or specified by Marketing Department / Buyer.

8. Using Iron Box, iron lightly without using steam to make the washed swatch flat.

9. Measure the distance between the Horizontal and Vertical Bartacks using Stainless steel scale and record the reading.

10. Calculate the Washing shrinkage percentage both horizontally and vertically (i.e. on warp side and weft side) and record it for each and every swatch. Compile the Roll / Bale wise shrinkage in the prescribed format. Record this information in each Identification Tags in each Roll (along with shade category).

11. Check the Washing shrinkage percentage Range. If the Range is more than 1.5 % , the Shrinkage Test to be conducted for all the Rolls / Bales received ( i.e. 100% of rolls )

12. Check again the Washing Shrinkage percentage. For each 1.5 % step of absolute shrinkage , Multiple Markers to be prepared. ( for example , for absolute Shrinkage % range of 3.0 % to 4.5 % - Marker / Pattern # 1 , and for shrinkage of 4.5 % to 6 % - Marker / Pattern # 2- like that ). Segregate and store the Fabric as per their Shrinkage - Marker / Pattern range ( steps of 1.5% ).

13. Organize with Pattern Department for the preparation of Multiple Markers based on Shrinkage level. The Marker / Pattern should contain Shrinkage range for which they are prepared along with other information.

14. Color codifies the range of Shrinkage (steps of 1.5 %) for easy tractability during the subsequent process. This information should be available in the respective Patterns and Specification sheet .

Note: In case the shrinkage range happens to be within 1.5 %, against Pattern #,

put (dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for the P.O.)

9.5 Shade segregation for non- wash fabric: (Stretch & Rigid)

1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30 cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the swatches.

2. Identify the Face side and back side. Mark the Roll #, O.C. / P.O. # date received on the back side of the swatch.

3. Using Light box with specified Light, segregate the swatches to visible shade Category. .

4. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as Shade category as A, B, C etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale ( may be in consultation with Marketing department / Buyers representative ).

5. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of A, B, C etc. Color code each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting section, Sewing section, Finishing section, Packing section and Q.A. Department should also contain this color codification ( along with Shrinkage % ).

6. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required Ratio (of sizes during final packing). Cuttable ratio and quantity should be informed to Marketing, Q.A. department and Buyers representative in advance for approval.

7. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (A, B, C etc) on the Cut Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.

8. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in Sewing section should have the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.

9. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton should contain only one shade category of Garments.

Note 1: In case , there is no shade variation , against Shade # , put ( dash - indicating that there is only one Shade for the O.C / P.O.).

Note 2: Shrinkage test to be done for 10 % of the Pocketing fabric.

7.6 Shade segregated for wash program: (Stretch & Rigid)

1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30 cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the swatches.


3. In case of Denim Fabric, join all the swatches by over lock to make a Blanket.

4. Wash the Swatch Blanket as per specified wash program.

5. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as Shade category as A, B, C etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale by viewing under Light Box with specified Lamp.

6. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of A, B, C etc. Color code each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting section should also contain this color codification (along with Shrinkage %).

7. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required Ratio (of sizes during final packing).

8. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (A, B, C etc) on the Cut Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.

9. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in sewing section should have the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.

10. Segregate Garments shade wise, bundle it separately, before dispatching to Laundry to undergo specified wash program. (Mention wash program in Identification Tag along with other information like O.C./ P.O.# etc.).

11. Washing Plant: - Wash Garment shade wise with different Recipes (developed already) to bring all shades to one common standard shade.

12. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton should contain only one shade category of Garments.

13. The shade band cards should be available with Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, Packing, Q.A. Department, Marketing and Buyers representative.

Note: In case , there is no shade variation , against Shade # , put ( dash - indicating that there is only one Shade for the O.C / P.O.)

9.7 IRONING SHRINKAGE TEST FOR RIGID FABRIC:1. Shrinkage Test to be conducted for 10 % (Random selection) of the Rolls / Bales (unless otherwise specified).

2. Cut swatches from the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 28 inches x 28 inches. It is preferable to use Metal Template # 1, for cutting the swatches.


4. Make 25 inches square Metal Template # 2. Mark horizontally and vertically on the sides of the square. The length of lines may be 2 inches more or less at the center of the sides. This means the distance between horizontal lines, and the distance between verticals should be equal to 25 inches.

5. Bartack on the lines which are at 25 x 25.

6. Over lock the edges of the swatch panels.

7. Iron the Fabric Swatch as per the specified Ironing Standard .

8. Measure the distance between the Horizontal and Vertical Bartacks using Stainless steel scale and record the reading.

9. Calculate the Ironing shrinkage percentage both horizontally and vertically (i.e. on warp side and weft side) and record it for each and every swatch. Compile the Roll / Bale wise shrinkage in the prescribed format. Record this information in each Identification Tags in each Roll (along with shade category etc.)

10. Check the Iron shrinkage percentage Range. If the Range is more than 1.5 % , the Shrinkage Test to be conducted for all the Rolls / Bales received ( i.e. 100% of rolls )

11. Check again the Ironing Shrinkage percentage. For each 1.5 % step of absolute shrinkage, Multiple Markers to be prepared. (for example, for absolute Shrinkage % range of 0.0 % to 1.5 % - Marker / Pattern #I 1 , and for shrinkage of 1.5 % to 4.5 % - Marker / Pattern # I 2- like that - here I represent pattern accounting for Iron Shrinkage ). Segregate and store the Fabric as per their Ironing Shrinkage - Marker / Pattern range (steps of 1.5%).

12. Organize with Pattern Department for the preparation of Multiple Markers based on Shrinkage level. The Marker / Pattern should contain Shrinkage range for which they are prepared along with other information.13. Color codifies the range of Shrinkage (steps of 1.5 %) for easy tractability during the subsequent process. This information should be available in the respective Patterns and Specification sheet .

Note: In case the Iron shrinkage range happen to be within 1.5 %, against Pattern # , put ( dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for the P.O.). Rarely ironing shrinkage exceeds 1.5 %.

10. CUTTING DEPARTMENTThe first stage in the manufacture of garment is the cutting of the material into the necessary pattern shapes. This is the place where the raw material enters the production chain. This is the place where most critical elements of cost dance to the music of production. This is the Cutting Room. And, the aim is process optimization control wastage. Increase efficiency wastage in the cutting room happens in the form of uncontrolled end wastage, unscientific splicing, improper marker and operator inefficiency. Bottlenecks increase the throughput time, which is a significant loss on the critical time. Cutting is the primary level of activity in the production process. Efficiency of entire unit can depends on the cutting section.

A good as well as a bad garment can be associated with the cutting section. The problem could be curbed and corrected at the first stage before reaching the sewing section. Cutting production starts with the receipt of raw materials /fabric and then the actual conversion of raw materials to various shapes on the basis of marker drawn. The cut parts are bundled on the basis of color, size, style etc. cutting section hence is the backbone of the unit and that is why this section needs to be taken well care of.

Points to be considered:

Check for the presence of master pattern before commencing the bulk cutting.

All the patterns received by the factory should be thoroughly checked for notches, seam allowances, and alignment with other panels

All markers made for cutting should be either duplicate at the factory or by using multiple carbons

Each pattern should have a grain line marking

10.1 Process Flow:

10.2 Functions:

To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining according to the PO

Getting the markers made from the CAD

Checking the patterns with the actual patterns

Draw manual markers

Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan

Laying the fabric

Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with the cut panels on the right time

Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels

Returning the remnant roll to the stores

Maintaining the records

Checking the quality of the cut panels

The work for cutting department starts right from the point of order confirmation. The CAD department prepares the marker length using the pattern and the sample prepared by the Sampling Department. It also makes estimation for the consumption of the fabric for that particular order. The results then communicated to merchandiser.

Once the order gets confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment component for the pilot run. Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing, and Planning Department sits together to decide the no. of pieces to be cut and supplied in advance, in accordance with the productivity derived for that style from the pilot run.

The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures the fabric then the fabric issued to the sp

labour rate

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