kolkata home design
TRANSCRIPT
CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE & GUIDELINE
Foundation & Superstructure of a Residential Building
Kolkata Home Design
By : S. JANA
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&
G U I D E L I N E [ FOUNDATION & SUPERSTRUCTURE ]
It’s prepared with based upon our site experience’s & code’s like
IS:456 , IS:1876 , ISO 9001: 2015 ,NB code , BIS code.
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Construction Sequence & Guideline
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• Site Preparation or Levelling work.
• Ground tracing & column demarcation.
• Excavation.
• PPC.
• Foundation.
• Superstructure – Column
• Tie Beam / Plinth Beam.
• Guard wall.
• DPC
• Brick Masonry Work.
• Lintel chaja over Door Window Gaps.
• Floor Slab shuttering.
• Reinforcement tying.
• Electrical Wiring
• Plumbing & sanitary sleeves.
• Concreting & curing.
• Interior & exterior plastering.
• Wet area water proofing.
• Terrace water proofing & screed concrete.
• Anti-Termite & Grade slab
• Tile / Marble floor & wall dado.
• Internal Paint finishing.
• External paint finishing.
• Woodwork and Fixture Fittings.
• CP & Sanitary Fittings.
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• Site Preparation or Levelling work.
The construction site must be cleaned before the work is executed. This work involves the removal of roots of trees, debris and leveling ground area.
NOTE:
• If possible, first construct outer boundary wall with settlement of all side belonging plot. So that in further time you can overcome the legal issues of actual area demarcation.
• Must be call a Surveyor / Amin to proper area demarcation.
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• Ground tracing & column demarcation.
Setting out of building foundation trenches is the process of laying down the excavation line
and centreline on the ground based on the foundation plan. The setting out process is also
called as ground tracing that is performed before commencing the excavation process.
Once the design of foundation is complete, a setting out plan or foundation layout is prepared
for a suitable scale and the plan is dimensioned accordingly. Procedure and requirements in
setting out foundation trenches are explained below.
• IT IS A PROGRAM OF SITE EXECUTION FOR FOOTING AND COLUMN PLACEMENT
• IT SHOULD BE CLEAR TO UNDERSTAND BY SITE ENGINEER AND MESTRI(SITE WORKER )
• MARKING SHOULD BE DONE CLEAR WITH LIME POWDER OR SPRAY MACHINES
The setting out playout must establish the following requirements:
1. The size of the excavation
2. The shape of excavation
3. The direction
4. The width of the walls
5. The position of the Column
6. Centre line of Column with X & Y axis
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• Excavation.
The foundation of building ground is excavated with the help of excavating machines as per the building dimension specified in drawings & as per previous ground marking.
NOTE : As per example snap , cutting side slope approx. 90 degree but when depth of the foundation more than 2 meter that time excavation side slope should be 30 - 45 degree to avoid soil collapse.
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• PPC.
Plain Cement Concrete( PCC ) of M15 grade (thickness of 100mm) are mandatorily placed on
a ground/soil strata, to give a firm, clean base for placing reinforcement cage, as
we start building foundation of a RCC structure.
Plain cement concrete is the mixture of cement, fine aggregate (sand) and coarse aggregate
without steel. PCC is an important component of a building which is laid on the soil surface to
avoid direct contact of reinforcement of concrete with soil and water.
Proportioning of Plain Cement Concrete
1. The proportioning is done based on the requirement or given specification. Generally 1:2:4 or
1:3:6 mix is used.(cement : sand : aggregates )
2. The measurement of material can be done by weight batching or volume batching.
3. In volume batching, coarse aggregate and sand shall be measured by measuring box of
30cmx30cmx38cm of a suitable size equivalent to one bag cement of 1/30 m3or 0.035 m3.
4. Sand shall be measured on the basis of its dry volume.
5. While measuring the aggregate, sacking, ramming or hammering shall not be done.
6. After 12 hr. gone, proper curing to be done.
7. Leave it uninterrupted 24 hr. for further work.
8. Septic tank base ppc to be done with this same.
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• Foundation.
This is the most widely recognized and most straightforward shallow foundation type, as this is the most economical type. They are typically utilized for shallow establishments to convey and spread concentrated burdens caused, for instance, by pillars or columns. They are generally used for ordinary buildings (Typically up to five stories).
Isolated footing comprises a foundation directly at the base of the segment. Generally, every section has its footing. They straightforwardly transfer the loads from the column to the soil. It might be rectangular, square, or roundabout. It can comprise both reinforced and non-reinforced material. For the non-reinforced footing, however, the stature of the footing has to be more prominent to give the vital spreading of the load. They should possibly be utilized when it is sure beyond a shadow of a doubt that no differing settlements will happen under the whole structure. Spread footings are inadmissible for the orientation of large loads. It is given to lessen the twisting minutes and shearing powers in their primary areas.
The size of the footing can be roughly calculated by dividing the total load at the column base by the allowable bearing capacity of the soil.
To decide when to use shallow foundations, it is necessary to know when it is economical. It is economical when:
• The load of the structure is relatively low. • Columns are not closely placed. • The bearing capacity of the soil is high at a shallow depth.
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• Superstructure – Column
A column or pillar in architecture and structural engineering is a structural element that transmits, through compression, the weight of the structure above to other structural elements below. In other words, a column is a compression member.
The superstructure is the portion of a building which is constructed above the ground level and it serves the purpose of structure's intended use. It includes columns, beams, slab upwards including all finishes, door and window schedules, flooring, roofing, lintels, and parapets.
Below this point to be checked properly before Column concreting…..
1. Vertical column rebar starting “L” should be min 500 mm & max ( Ld. + 10d ) 2. All side cover min 50 mm for foundation, 30 mm for column & 25 mm for slab. 3. Rebar position, stirrups spacing, diameter of the bar must be as per drawing. 4. Reinforcement lap must be 50D. 5. Column lap should be 50% and it’s always center of the column. 6. Column shuttering always cage system with tie bar supports. 7. If higher & lower dia of the bar is lapped then Lap length always calculated by higher dia for
this case. 8. From foundation its construct up to tie beam bottom, then up to plinth beam bottom, then up
to lintel beam bottom then up to floor beam bottom. Then up to 1st floor lintel beam bottom then up to 2nd floor beam bottom. Then repeat the same.
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• Tie Beam & Plinth Beam.
Tie beam is a beam connecting two or more columns for making it more stiffens to make the
structure as a frame for stability. Tie beam not carry and vertical load of slab or walls but take axial
compression load so some time act as a horizontal column. Tie beam is used to stiffening the
whole building on the foundation level which help in minimizing the settlement and displacement
for a foundation .
Now a days its max used to take the load of guard wall for residential building.
Plinth beam is a horizontal member provided to transfer the load from the upper structure to column
and walls or foundation.
It can transfer both dead load and live load. The finished ground level on which the building or structure
rest is known as plinth level. It is constructed slightly higher than the Ground Level.
Purpose of Plinth Beam.
1. Plinth beam prevents differential settlement in structures because all the load coming on the plinth
beam is uniformly transferred to the foundation.
Hence, prevent differential settlement.
2. It prevents the dampness from foundation to enter the building.
3. It ties all the column.
4. It prevents cracks from foundation to reach the wall.
5. It prevents the building to collapse during an earthquake.
6. Plinth Beams distribute the load uniformly.
Plinth beam shuttering Plinth beam after concrete
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• Guard wall.
It’s a simple the protective wall that’s carry the lateral load like soil, water etc.
When soil ground level is lower than the plinth level that time building peripherals area must be protected by a wall so that filling sand or soil can be compacted properly.
To carry the load of this wall we have to make tie beam only surrounding of the building through the column. So that wall load passed through the tie beam then column then foundation.
That’s way the building will be more structurally ok.
1. It’s always outer peripherals of the building over tie beam. 2. Tie beam, Min 10’’ thickness & 4 no’s 12 mm bar.
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• DPC ( Dam Proof Course )
Damp-Proof in construction is a type of moisture control applied to building walls and floors to prevent moisture from passing into the interior spaces. Dampness problems are among the most frequent problems encountered in residences.
Damp proofing is accomplished several ways including:
• A damp-proof course (DPC) is a barrier through the structure designed to prevent moisture rising by capillary action such as through a phenomenon known as rising damp. Rising damp is the effect of water rising from the ground into property. The damp proof course may be horizontal or vertical. A DPC layer is usually laid below all masonry walls, regardless if the wall is a load bearing wall or a partition wall.
• A damp-proof membrane (DPM) is a membrane material applied to prevent moisture transmission. A common example is polyethylene sheeting laid under a concrete slab to prevent the concrete from gaining moisture through capillary action. A DPM may be used for the DPC.
• Integral damp proofing in concrete involves adding materials to the concrete mix to make the concrete itself impermeable.
• Surface suppressant coating with thin water proof materials such as epoxy resin for resistance to non-pressurized moisture such as rain water or a coating of cement sprayed on such as shotcrete which can resist water under pressure.
Chemical = Asian paint or Barger dam proof compound for DPC
Compound = 1 cement : 1 sand : 2 zero chips : 500 Gram chemical
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• Brick Masonry Work.
As column and beam framework completed masonry work is started with different materials such as bricks, concrete blocks, fly ash bricks, etc. according to building drawing. Masonry work is done using a cement mortar mix or block adhesive. It is a mixture of cement & sand. During this carefully and as per drawing gaps are laid for doors and windows during the masonry work.
Important Note:
1. First ensure that all column casting done up lintel beam bottom. 2. Hacking should be done properly on column. 3. Ensure the DCP must be completed as per specification and chemical
compound. 4. Mortar ratio for brick work 1:5 / 1:6 5. Max 1000 mm can be construct in a single day lift. 6. Curing to be done 4 times in a day and continue up to minimum 7 days. 7. Door window gap to be maintained as per drawing.
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• Lintel chaja over Door Window Gaps.
The lintel is constructed on the door and window to support the masonry work over it. After this further masonry work is done.
1. It’s can be continues or cut lintel ( concern your designer ) 2. It’s connected with chaja / sunshade. 3. Beam bottom must be in level, if not then it’s problematic at the time of door
window fixing.
Cut lintel
Continuous lintel
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• Floor Slab shuttering
Then the formwork is started to construct slab resting on the column and beam. Over slab formwork, slab reinforcement is placed as per slab detailed drawing.
• First check the quality of shuttering plates. Avoid using plates with uneven surface and damaged edges. They must be of regular size.
• If plywood is used, it should be of ISO marked and durable under alternate wetting and drying conditions.
• Take approval for shuttering from Engineer-in-charge or supervisor before tying reinforcement.
• Engineer-in-charge or supervisor must check the slope, level of slabs and beams before placing reinforcement in position. Preliminary inspection should be done even before commencing tying of reinforcement.
• Shuttering should be hard enough to withstand the load of concrete and impact of placing of concrete and vibrations.
• Oil or mould release agent should be applied on shuttering plates so that shuttering can be easily removed after concrete gets initial strength.
• 12 mm diameter PVC pipe nipples should be provided before casting of sloping roof. These nipples will be useful for cement grout after slab is concreted. The grouting is needed as however great precautions you may take while concreting sloping roof, the slab is liable to leakage. The grouting will reduce the leakage.
• Mark one level on every column as per beam depth. • Position and level of beam bottom supports should be with respect to the depth of the
beam.
• Bottom plank of the beam should be straight. It should not be bent.
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• Joints of beam bottom should be properly propped so that formwork doesn’t bulge during concreting.
• Before providing beam sides, level of the beam bottom should be checked. • After levelling of beam bottom bracing should be provided. • The plumb of beam sides at each end should be checked with the help of line dori.
Shuttering of beam column junction should be in plumb and watertight. • Formwork joints in beam sides should be taken at the end of beam. • Before casting a slab, all shuttering gaps must be properly closed giving particular
attention to column cap, beam junctions, beam side to slab bottom junction and beam side to beam bottom junction as well as jointing between two plates.
• Adjustable plates (gabadi plate or gap plate) should be used to avoid gabadi in particular bay. Contractors are ignorant about repairing the small This affects the strength of concrete.
• In such cases, contractors use scrap material where it is not possible to place shuttering plates and bottom of slab is not in same level. It affects the thickness of plaster.
• The slab thickness should be marked on the side of slab as per the thickness of slab. • Wooden props should be avoided as far as possible. Wooden props, if used, check for
soundness, proper sizes, plumb and see that they are not butt spliced. • Props must be braced in both directions by tubes and fixed couplers. • Wooden plates are not recommended as due to surface deformations they give uneven
surface resulting in increasing the thickness of ceiling plaster. • All the props must be in proper alignment, plumb and not jointed more than 20%. Props
must not get staggered.
• All the props must be kept vertical by providing wedges and cross bracings. Do not use bricks or blocks below props to adjust height. Contractors fix the props in a slant position to avoid cutting of props or to utilize short prop they give more packing below the prop. They are dangerous and may slip while concreting and invite failure of cantilever formwork.
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• Individual prop must be braced both ways with continuous runners and prop system braced laterally.
• Minimum spacing between props should be 0.60m (2.0′) center to center in case of wooden props and M.S. props.
• Extra care need to be taken when cantilever slab (for Balcony) has to cast at first floor. In this case let’s say plinth height is 0.9 meter & floor height is 3 meter then total height of the props would be 3.9 meter. In this case, sometimes it may happen that the props are placed on freshly filled up soil. At that moment temporary C.C. should be done before placing those props for cantilever slab on filled up soil. The filled up soil should also be properly compacted / watered.
• The reason for temporary PCC is that freshly filled up soil may settle and cantilever slab may sink.
• Proper camber should be provided as per drawing particularly in large span beam at the center and in case of cantilever beam at the end.
• • • When span of the beam is more than 6 to 9 meter then camber should be provided in
Centre of the beam. It is possible that when span to depth ratio is not maintained the chances of deflection at center may arise. To check the deflections of large beam follow this site experiment.
• To check whenever deflection is taking place during concreting or not (particularly in case of long span between) adopt the match box technique. Take a single prop and place it in the Centre of the beam with empty matchbox placed on top of prop (leave a space between beam shuttering and prop). Once casting has been carried out, if the empty matchbox gets crushed it can be clearly said that the deflection has occurred.
• If it deflects and if deflection is more than permissible limits, it is serious and immediately consults your structural engineer to arrive at right engineering solutions.
• Providing camber can minimize the risk of deflection particularly in long span of beam. This also happens after hardening of concrete.
• M.S. props must use when height of the staging is more than 3.6m (12′). • Remove all the debris e.g. dust, paper, leaves, chippings of woods, nails, reinforcement
wastage, soil particles etc… • Before placing the concrete, sprinkle some water over the shuttering of slab.
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• Reinforcement tying.
• The reinforcement steel should be free of any loose scale, rust, mud, or oil. • Cutting of reinforcement should be done beam wise and for the total number of the beams,
required for slab. Extra length of cutting bars at the ends leads to improper end cover. • Make sure that cover blocks used for casting of slab and beam have the same grade as of
concrete. They are not broken and properly positioned and should not get disturbed during concreting operations.
• Proper cover to reinforcement should be provided to slab bottom, beam bottom and sidewalls.
• Before placing the concrete, Check the reinforcement details with bar bending schedule and get an approval from structural consultant.
• The reinforcement of slab must be in proper alignment and the slab bends must be lifted up to give a bend up of height 12.5 mm less than slab thickness without cover.
• Make sure that size and spacing of reinforcement are as per drawing, particularly for main reinforcement of slab or beam.
• Full bearing of beam bars should be given on column. • Beam bars should be passing through column reinforcement fully. • Provide M.S. chairs in cantilever slab reinforcement as well as for lifted bent up bars. • Check the laps of beam or slab with detailed drawing. Never keeps lap in middle of beam or
slab if they have long span. Keep the lap in alternate pattern and it should be in staggered manner.
• Check the joints beam-column joint details as per detailed drawing- flexible or rigid. • Bent up bars must be as per detailed drawing. It should not be in middle height. • See that whenever the reinforcement of cantilever beam are at top and also ensure that the
counter balance in cantilever beam is adequately provided e. top bars are adequately taken into the main beams or slabs (Minimums double the cantilever length).
• Oil should not come in contact with surface of reinforcement. It will reduce the bond. • Stirrups must be provided at junction of beams and columns which is generally avoided. • Dowels (if any) should be provided for elevational features / future extensions/ upper storey
column. • Parapet (Pardi) bars shall be left for balconies/staircase
• Column lap should be tying if shortage of visible lap length.
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• Electrical Wiring
Most commonly used in India is Concealed Conduit Electrical Wiring
Concealed Conduit Electrical Wiring systems are the most popular, aesthetically appealing, and most common type of House Electrical wiring used. Conduit wiring is a professional way of wiring a building. Mostly PVC conduits are used in domestic wiring.
The conduit protects the wires from external damages like rodents etc., increasing the longevity of the wires used. Before talking about the installation procedure, lets talk about what house electrical wiring system is and their different types.
PVC conduit pipes are placed inside the chiseled brick/block wall before plaster. The wall is later completely plastered and painted. Electrical wires are laid inside the conduits. This type of wiring are aesthetically appealing since they are no electrical wires/conduits seen on the top of the wall.
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• Plumbing & sanitary sleeves.
Before Concreting we must be complete the opening, sleeves, insert pipe and other if any specified for CP, sanitary item & drainage line.
If not provide the same before construction, its affected further at the time of finishing. So it’s very sensitive thing in residential building construction.
Must be as per engineer or designer plan drawing.
May chance of leakage or seepages in sunken & water logged area in future.
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Concreting & curing
Concreting is one of the important process for any kind of construction. Contractors & builders
pay huge money for concreting process comparing to other civil works. Before and while
concreting site engineer or supervisor needs to monitor and certify the following aspects for
proper execution of concreting work.
1. Shuttering Stability The shuttering and centering should be checked for proper Level, alignment and their
support. If the supports are not strong and stable, it may collapse during concreting work.
This can be serious safety concern and leads to wastage of time and material. Before and
during concreting work supervisor person should observe the stability of all shuttering and
centering supports.
2. Releasing Agents
Proper Planks or plates should be provided. These planks or plates must be properly
oiled or should be verified by site engineer. If the plates are not properly oiled, the surface
of concrete will get damage during striking plates and cause difficulty during this process.
Further, it leads to poor surface finish.
3. Sealing
Gaps in shuttering plates shall be properly sealed by mortar, Rubber, etc. and should be
checked thoroughly. If not sealed it leads to leakage of concrete through gaps and gives
improper finish.
4. Placing Reinforcement Before commencing concreting work, the reinforcement details should be verified as per
the drawings. Bar diameter, cut length, lap joints, Beam-column joins, column extension
length at footing should be checked thoroughly. Improper detailing and placing leads to
poor functioning of structural element or even collapse of the structure.
5. Reinforcement Cover Reinforcement Cover is one of the most important aspects of concrete work.
The reinforcement bars should not be exposed to atmosphere and the minimum
recommended cover should be provided if not shown in drawings. Proper spacer blocks or
bars should be also provided. If proper cover not provided to the steel rods and are
exposed to air, it leads to corrosion of reinforcement and rust formation. Finally, it
causes spalling of concrete and loss in strength.
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6. Reinforcement Support
Enough no of chairs must be provided while laying reinforcement. It holds the
reinforcement in position and maintains the top and bottom cover to reinforcement. If
enough chairs are not provided, the rods may get disturbed or the spacing of rods will be
non-uniform. During concreting work the reinforcement losses its position.
7. Material Supply
Availability of adequate quantity of cement, sand and aggregates at site should be
ensured before construction. If enough materials are not available during concrete work it
may cause work disruption and undesirable construction joints.
8. Embeds in Concrete
Embeds and concrete inserts like Fan Box, Insert plates, anchor bolts and hooks are to be
checked properly, anchored, and placed. If these are not checked properly before
concreting work it’s difficult to achieve these after construction.
10. Mixing location
Ensure proper access for labor and materials from the location of placement
to mixing need to checked and minimized. If the distance is not maintained it can slow
down the work reduce the workability of concrete. If it is not possible to maintain it.
Proper admixtures must be used to ensure workability and delayed setting of concrete.
11. Joints in Concrete
The construction Joints must be properly planned in advance during the concreting works.
If not planned well concrete may cause cracks in the surface, loss in structural integrity and
poor durability.
12. Pouring of Concrete and Compaction
The pouring concrete height should not be more than 1m (or 3 Feet) in order to avoid
segregation. If the distance is more than 1m, it leads to segregation in concrete and leads
to voids in concrete work. After poring, concrete must be properly compacted and
finished.
Use 75 mm / 50 mm needle vibrator for compacting, hold 15 to 30 second in a single place.
Difference between the placing points of needle must be 200 to 300 mm. Concrete slab
level is zero in the entire slab top.
It’s must be supervised any engineer if possible level should be checked through Auto
level / dumpy level.
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13. Proper Curing ( Min 15 days , best to 28 days )
In order to attain complete strength of concrete, curing is very important. To ensure that
proper curing can be done, the condition of pump, water tank and water availability need
to be checked. If above facilities are not available the concrete curing will be affected and
affects the strength of concrete.
Preferable pond curing to be required.
14. Precautions
Following arrangements should be properly planned in advance for the unforeseen
concrete drying situations.
• Placing wet bags over concrete & spray water in
• Providing of curing compounds like Admixtures.
• If the above facilities are not available, the concrete gets dry and the nominal water
for hydration is reduced and concrete doesn’t attain the desired strength.
• Leave it uninterrupted 7 days after that work will resume.
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Interior & exterior plastering.
Plasterwork is construction or ornamentation done with plaster, such as a layer of plaster on an interior or exterior wall structure, or plaster decorative moldings on ceilings or walls. This is also sometimes called pargeting. The process of creating plasterwork, called plastering or rendering, has been used in building construction for centuries. For the art history of three-dimensional plaster, see stucco.
• In Interior wall plaster is the most common material being used. Interior plastering goes
on to provide a solid surface to the walls. It is done to provide a permanent fixture to your
room rather than experimenting with any unknown painting technique. It could be applied
to the full texture of your room or s specific area like a door or window as well. Thickness
should be 12 mm in wall & 8 mm in ceiling. Mortar ratio must be 1:4
• Exterior Plasterers apply the exterior skin to buildings over brick wall. They have to make
sure the finish looks good and is weathertight. Thickness should be 18 mm and mortar
ratio must be 1:5 .
Exterior plastering Interior plastering
• In both case minimum 7 days curing to be done
• Before plastering, electrical conduit, door window frame must be fixed.
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Wet area water proofing.
Toilets, bathrooms & utilities are the most sensitive areas in the structure with regards to waterproofing due to
presence of continuous moisture on it. Leaking bathrooms not only annoys you but also causes huge
inconvenience to your neighbors in the floors below. Waterproofing range makes sure protects your toilet &
other areas from leakage.
PROCEDURE FOR TOILET/UTILITIES WATERPROOFING INCLUDING SUNKEN AREAS.
1. Ensure waste pipes, drain pipes & supply pipe to be provided according to proper level & slope.
2. Seal off the pipes for further testing.
3. Ensure that complete all the block work for the wet areas.
4. After completion of block work mark the level pads in the walls.
5. Clean the surface free from dust, loose material etc.
6. Wet the surface with water to make it SSD condition.
7. Apply one coat as per method statement of water proofing compound ( Dr Fixit , Sika , Asian paints , Endura )
8. Leave it 24 hr.
9. Apply second coat of as per method statement of water proofing compound supplier.
10. Leave it again 24 hr.
11. Fill the water up to 300 mm high , then Ponding Test for water leakage will be carried out as per IS 3370 part 1
for seven days as instructed.
12. If satisfied & no leakage , no dampness then ok
13. If leakage, dampness found then redo point no 7 to 11 again.
14. Drain out the ponded water and then provide 20 mm protective plaster cement: sand mortar (1:4) admixed with
Integral Waterproofing compound.
15. If satisfied no leakage no dampness then ok.
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Terrace water proofing & screed concrete.
Terrace waterproofing is very critical, as a roof is always exposed to harsh weather conditions, climatic changes
and rains. The terrace surface tends to accumulate rain water, which in due course starts seeping inside the slab.
Over time, the deterioration of the surface will increase; leading to more damage.
On top of the slab, waterproofing is done to prevent any leakage in the slab. In nineteen century terrazzo tiling,
brick but koba is done to prevent the slab from a weathering effect. But now a day’s most using system is
Polyurethane ( PU ), Cementitious Coating, EPDM Rubber, Rubberized Asphalt, Thermoplastic,
Bituminous Membrane or APP membrane and PVC Waterproofing Membrane.
• Water proofing method will be followed as per Buyer company statement
• After water test a 75 mm protective screed to be done.
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Anti-Termite & Grade slab
The treatment process that is conducted to avoid termite’s entry by using chemical is an
anti-termites treatment. Must be stop this termites because they entre from underground & start to damage the
concrete structure indignity. Starts to eats the wooden particle and make then pours.
Before start anti-termites, soil must be compacted properly.
This process can carry just before the grade slab concrete.
Anti-termites Ration will be 20:1 ( 20 liter water : 1 lit chemical )
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PCC - GRADE SLAB ( Over B.F.S )
Before B.F.S [ BRICK FLAT SOLING] we must compact the soil.
Compaction should be layer by layer if feeling depth is high.
Instated of soil , if we use white see sand its batter for proper compaction.
Each layer thick of soil not more than 400 mm.
After completion of soil - rammed, we should have to complete Ati-termite treatment.
Then start B.F.S over laying black polyethene.
Joint should be 10 – 25 mm
Mortar ratio 1:6 for B.F.S
Mortar ratio 1:2:4 for grade slab
Thickness in general 75 to 100 mm
Curing time : 7 to 15 days
Note : If any CP – Sanitary line like toilet , kitchen inlet outlet to be completed before B.F.S
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RCC - GRADE SLAB ( over compacted soil )
Procedure will same as pcc -grade slab.
In RCC grade slab - 8 mm/ 10 mm reinforcement 300 mm c/c both way and
singly jail to be provided.
After soil compaction & anti-termite we have to laid reinforcement jail over black
polyethylene. And then grade slab concreting to be done.
RCC ratio will be 1: 2: 4
Thickness in general 75 to 100 mm
Curing time should be : Min 7 to 15 days.
Note : If any CP – Sanitary line like toilet , kitchen inlet outlet to be completed
before reinforcement jail laying.
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Tile installation is easier than you might think. With planning, preparation, and our step-by-step advice, you can do it on your own.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Make sure your surfaces are clean, smooth, and dry for best results. Take time to repair, patch, and level any damaged or uneven areas. Double check to make sure the surface is structurally sound and the area free of wax, soap scum, and grease.
Remove any moldings, trim, or appliances that may interfere with tile application and check the doorjambs to make sure tile has clearance when installed beneath. Identifying those potential complications in advance will help your installation run smoothly.
LAYOUT
For an efficient layout, start by marking the center point of each of the walls in the room. Next, snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls to pinpoint the center of the room. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the intersection creates perfect squares.
Starting at the center point, lay a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, using tile spacers as you go for even, uniform joints. Once you reach the walls, you'll need to cut tiles for a proper fit. If the cuts needed are smaller than half of a tile, you can adjust the center line by snapping a new line a half-tile size closer to the wall. If necessary, repeat this step along the intersecting center line for a precise design.
To make a large room more manageable, divide each section into smaller 2' x 3' grids by snapping additional lines parallel to the centerlines.
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Tile / Marble floor & wall dado.
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ADHESIVE APPLY
As a general rule of thumb, be mindful to mix only enough of the adhesive to be used within 30 minutes. Using the flat side of the trowel type recommended on the adhesive package, spread a 1/4" coat on the surface of one grid area without covering the guidelines.
After doing so, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and use the notched side to comb adhesive into standing ridges. When you remove the excess adhesive, you leave behind a uniform, ridged setting bed for your tile. As another rule of thumb, do not spread a larger area of your adhesive than can be set in 15 minutes.
Stick to the script and facilitate your tile installation with the perfect adhesive application.
CUT TILE AS NEED
Start by marking carefully measured cuts-to-be with a pencil or felt-tip pen on the tile surface. You can use a tile cutter to achieve pinpoint straight or diagonal cuts. Make masterful curved cuts with a nipper, chipping away small pieces for best results.
For any full-length curved cuts, a rod saw is most properly suited to handle the task. After your cuts are made, smooth out any sharp edges with a carborundum stone to give a soft finish to your tile.
SET YOUR TILE
Now that you've primed the surface, created the layout, applied the adhesive, and cut the tile, you are fully prepared for the actual installation of your tile.
Begin by installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid before moving on to the next. Within each grid, it will help to start the first tile in the corner and work outward.
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Using a slight twisting motion, set tiles one at a time and avoid sliding them into place. Be sure to either insert spacers as each tile is set or leave equal joints between tiles. Save the perimeter tiles in each grid for last, leaving a 1/4th inch gap between the tile and wall. Once a grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a solid bond and level plane. Remove excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from tile with a damp sponge to prevent an uneven appearance.
Lastly, allow your hard work at least 24 hours to set before walking on it. And of course, take at least 20 minutes to admire the time and care you have put in to your new floor!
GROUTING
Now that your Mohawk Ceramic Tile is in place and has had 24 hours to set, your last Step is to "grout" or fill the joints and consolidate your floor into one mass.
After carefully reading and following all instructions and precautions on the grout package, make only enough to use in a 30-minute period. As you remove the tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, use a rubber grout float or a squeegee to force it down into the joints.
Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle and with the edge of the float, remove the excess grout from the surface immediately. Now tilt the float at a 90-degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles.
Once you've let the grout set slightly for around 15 to 20 minutes, use a damp sponge to clean any residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints.
Make sure to rinse your sponge frequently and change the water when needed.
Polish with a soft cloth when the grout has dried and haze forms on the tile surface, and rinse again with sponge and clean water if necessary. Give your newly grouted floor 72 hours before any heavy use and at least three weeks before applying sealers or polishes.
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• Internal Paint finishing.
Clean walls.
Remove dust, dirt, and grease spots (which can ruin a smooth finish) with water, a
little mild dishwashing detergent, and a cellulose sponge. Rinse walls with clean
water to remove the soap residue.
Coarse putty application: it is the major putty which fill the undulation pores of the
wall. Most using brand is Asian, Barger and JK wall putty.
Corse putty Coverage 250 to 300 sq feet per 50 kg bag
Fine putty application: it is the final putty to make smoothness, fine and proper
level to paint.
Fine putty Coverage 200 to 250 sq feet per 50 kg bag
Sanding the wall surface: surface wall to be smooth by sanding paper or sanding
machine.
Primer application: it is the bonding coat in between putty and paints, coverage
100 to 125 sq feet per liter primer. Water mixing ratio is 1:1
Paint: paint will be two coat interval of 12 hr. coverage 80 to 125 sq feet per liter.
Water mixing ratio is 1 : 0.3 ( paint : water )
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• External Paint finishing.
• Clean ext walls.
Remove dust, dirt, and grease spots (which can ruin a smooth finish) with
water, a little mild dishwashing detergent, and a cellulose sponge. Rinse walls
with clean water to remove the soap residue.
• Repair damage surface
• Primer application: 1st coat & 2nd coat it is the bonding coat in between
plaster surface and paints, coverage 100 to 125 sq feet per liter primer.
Water mixing ratio is 1:1
• Paint: 1st coat & 2nd coat paint will be two coat interval of 12 hr. coverage
80 to 125 sq feet per liter. Water mixing ratio is 1 : 0.75 ( paint : water )
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• Woodwork and Fixture Fittings.
Its includes wooden door frame, door shutter, aluminum sliding window, outer
MS grill for window etc.
• DOOR FRAME should be salwood or any branded wood.
• Door shutter can be purchase but it should be Greenply or century ply
or any branded make.
• Shutter must be insects and water proof.
• DOOR & SHUTTER hardware should be Godrej or any brand make.
• Window outer protected MS grill should be 8mm or 10 mm square bar
make.
• Aluminum window should be made by saint gobin & glass must be
toughen glass.
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CP & Sanitary Fittings.
Your bathroom may be out of other people’s sight but that doesn’t mean you get can get away with carelessly
buying just any sanitary ware. It also needs creative input and thorough attention as you would give your
bedroom or living room. This is because aesthetics is not the only goal here but to also build a comfortable and
functional bathroom.
To achieve that goal, here are some tips that will help your choose the best sanitary ware for your bathroom
that suits your needs.
1. Color
If you want your bathroom to reflect your quirky personality, it’s okay to be very creative with different
colors of sanitary wares. Just make sure you know how to combine colors that complement each other. Like
if yellow/golden would be the accent color that you want, keeping everything else white would be good but
powder blue cabinets go well with it too. If you’re not so sure about this, it would be best to stick to white.
It’s a safe color, gives your bathroom a classic and elegant appeal.
2. Comfort
Since you’re going to spend money anyway, why not invest on sanitary wares that can make your life a little
more comfortable? If you can afford it, invest in a bathtub and a shower that allows temperature adjustment.
You’ll thank yourself you did when you’ve had a long day and all your body’s craving for is a long warm
bubble bath.
3. Ease Of Cleaning
It would have been convenient if all your sanitary items in your bathroom have a self-cleaning feature. Sadly,
that doesn’t exist yet. But until then, think about how easy an item would be to clean before buying them.
Otherwise, you’d end up swearing up and down while scrubbing the hell of your bathroom.
4. Size
If your bathroom space is small, you’d better opt for sanitary wares that are on a smaller size because buying
big toilet and all of that stuff will make your bathroom look smaller than it is. Though it’s always up to you if
you really want big bathtub and other sanitary wares, just don’t say we didn’t warn you when you keep on
bumping on everything with your every move.
5. Resistance
While choosing bathroom sanitary ware, two major factors have to be put into consideration. These are the
strength and the design. The toilet bowls and bathroom basins should be of a good design and also be strong
enough not to chip and break easily. They should therefore have no sharp edges and you should ensure they
are well fitted.
Also market experience to be checked properly.
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CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE & GUIDELINE
CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE & GUIDELINE
KOLKATA HOME DESIGN
Thank You