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Day 1 05/06/09

Stayed at Mum & Dads last night (flew up from Sydney in the afternoon) as we had

to be out at the airport before 8am so didnt want to have to do an early morning flight

and also gave me the chance to have a good nights sleep before heading off.

Got dropped off around 7.30am and was waiting for Chris and his crew to arrive just

near the check-in counter for Air Niugini. They only other person I knew, outside of

the family, of was Cam (only from descriptions from Chris) so was just waiting there

and noticed 1 guy check in with gear (who turned out to be Guy) who went off

somewhere and then 2 other guys (Peter & Andrew) who came across when they

noticed my gear. From here the rest turned up and some confusion started with the

check-in with some people having some issues and Ben already worrying about his

return connections.

The flight was pretty good especially for Greeney, Cam, Bernie and I who all had

rows to ourselves after take off. Being on the left hand side (thanks for the tip Scotthough I dont know why you didnt follow it) was fantastic with beautiful views of

the Great Barrier Reef and Australias coastline.

Getting off the plane we were greeted by the heat and humidity of PNG and after

leaving customs we met Max (our tour guide) and Alfie (worker from Sogeri Lodge

where we were staying first night). It was straight onto the bus and off we go to

Bomana War Cemetery, which is about 12kms from the airport. No more then 1

minute from the airport the look change completely from relatively nice surrounds to

the mad rush of people everywhere handing off and onto of vehicles and

shantytown/roadside markets. The roads where also a composite of bits of bitumen

and plenty of potholes and even though it was one lane each way there were

sometimes 6 lanes of trafficto me the vehicles and people hanging off them was

Nadi (Fuji) on steroids.

We finally pulled up in front of a high fence (with barbed wire on top) and a

guardhouse behind which stood some lush green grassvast contrast to the

surrounding area. The guard come out and let us into what we were told was Bomana

War Cemetery which was established in 1942 for those Allied soldiers who died in

the fighting in Papua and Bougainville and had their graves brought in by the

Australian Army Graves Service from burial grounds in the areas where the fightinghad taken place. The unidentified soldiers of the United Kingdom forces were all from

the Royal Artillery, captured by the Japanese at the fall of Singapore; they died incaptivity and were buried on the island of Bailale in the Solomons. These men were

later re-buried in a temporary war cemetery at Torokina on Bougainville Islandbefore being transferred to their permanent resting place at Port Moresby.

The cemetery contains 3,819 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War, 702 of

them unidentified.

The PORT MORESBY MEMORIAL stands behind the cemetery and commemorates

almost 750 men of the Australian Army (including Papua and New Guinea local


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forces), the Australian Merchant Navy and the Royal Australian Air Force who losttheir lives in the operations in Papua and who have no known graves.

Chris spoke to us about the place and spoke to a couple of people who were buried

there and their stories. It was an extremely peaceful and solemn place, even though

there were dirty great big Rottweiler and Dobermans walking around with securityguards. I find it very hard to describe this place with my simple English so I wanted to

include a photo so you can see what it is.

From here we travelled to our stop for the night, Sogeri Lodge, which was about

another 25km of so (luckily still on the tarred road).

Once here, the lodge was a lovely little place, we met Icons man on the groundand

Mr Beetlenut himself, Naro. What a character this man is. It was here we got our first

debrief and a more detailed run down of the ins and out of the Kokoda trek, thevillages, our carriers (not porters), water, cleaning hands etc. The water and cleaning

hands were going to be the big one and it was funny to see us all queuing up for bottle

water and then putting our tablets in. It was great to have a nice dinner and have the

chance to meet the group more, as I knew my room mate James Mac reasonable well.


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Day 2 06/06/09 (Track Day 1)

Morning came around too soon for some and the 5.45am wakeup for a 6am Breakfast

with an aim of being on the road to Owers Corner by 7am. Breakfast, along with

dinner, was delicious and very filling but I couldve done with a longer bed as Im notbuilt for those little singles.

Naro, whom to us seemed like the Mayor of Sogeri, turned up with his beetlenut

handbag and a pair of black RMs and looked quite amusing to us. He gave us a

demonstration of the bettlenut and offered a sample but all declined or said they

would when we returned.

For those that dont know bettlenut is a green nut they all chew, along with crushed

lime shell that they put in their mouths using a mustard twig. They then chew and spit

this out like chewing tobacco and leaves their lips, mouths and teeth stained red and

now we know why the roads all look like people have been walking around bleedingeverywhere.

We were all waiting for the truck to arrive and take us up the road and things started

going backwards from here as we didnt end up leaving until 8.30am.

Once in the truckall 13 tourist and 12 carriers plus all our gear we were a 3 tonne

truck full (we had to take the truck as the roads were too boggy for the bus, as it is all

dirt road from Sogeri on). So much so that 5 of the boys were hanging on the back or

sides of the truck.

It was a 17km drive to Owers Corner from the Lodge and things were going ok till

the rain came and all the side were brought down so we were all enclosed inside the

truckhot, sweaty and not idea of where we were going. Not long after we started

hitting some gullies and road getting muddier and finally BANG!!! we slide out of

control and took out a wallluckily none of the guys were on that corner. Just up the

road we struggled up one hill and then got stuck on the nextIm surprised we still

had a gear box.

Finally after about 5mins of the driving trying to get us up it was all out and still the

truck wouldnt move. It was then on the rope and pull out the 3 tonne truckwhat a

great warm up. All back in the truck but we got bogged again on the next hill. Thedecision was then made to just start walking8kms short of our destination. Even

though this was added distance I think everyone sighed with relief just to be out of

that truckwas of the most interesting and stressful trucks rides Ive had.

So once we were all loaded up and standing in the rain it was off to Owers Corner.

Once here about 2 hours later there are a couple of monuments including a 25

pounder and a large arch way to the start of the trip. Chris talked to us about this area

and the gun, a few photos were takenincluding how Tom (one of the carriers) could

hold 4 cameras on his very wide feet and we were off and started our first descent to

Goldie River. It was on the descent that I was thinking to myself that I dont want to

be the first person to fall overthankfully this title went SwiftyI was the 2 nd to hitthe deck.


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This was our first proper creek crossing (Boots Off), with the Goldie River being

about 15-20m wide and mid thigh deep on me. It didnt seem like much but when

youve got your boots in one hand and 23kg backpack on the other shoulder trying to

get across (and a strong current in places) and then up a muddy bank, it made the

crossing interesting.

Once we were all across we stopped here for our first lunch, which consisted of Hi-

way hardman (biscuits), cheese, bully beef, shapes and spreads.


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After lunch we had a couple of ups and downs for about an hour which brought us to

our first camp site Dump 66. This was earlier then planned as we had only covered

4kms instead of the planned 9kms. We had hoped to get to Dump 44 (over Imita

Ridge and the Golden Staircase) but because of the truck incident Max called an early

camp.

At this camp we were able to setup our tents (Im sharing with James the other pairs

were Scot & Greg, Cam & Geoff, Peter & Andrew, Ben & Susie, Guy & Bernie and

Captain Chris on his own). It was great and refreshing to have a swim in the creek

though watching Greg slip over 3 times heading down to the creek probably made

people think twice about having a bath. Add to this it was quiet cool and some mosies

around we knew we were going to be in for a fun week with bathing.

Around 4.30pm it started raining heavily and continued into the night. Our first on the

track dinner was rice with a mix of Cabbage, Carrot and Onionwhich most people

added Maggie Seasoning Sauce to.

It was a fairly early night for all as we new we had a big day tomorrow, as being we

were not at our original planned camp site for night 1 and had 2 climbs tomorrow

instead of one.

Over all Im feeling pretty good and enjoyed the day.

Days Stats:-

Distance 4kms ( plus 8km of up and down from the bogged truck)

Climbing Elevation 60ms Descent 315m


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Day 3 07/06/09 (Track Day 2)

We were up at 5.30am, pack up camp, have breakfast, get our run down of the day

and then on the road by 7.30am (only 30mins late today)all in the rain. It was a

solid 1 hour climb up from camp and then a flat section before we hit the GoldenStairs (this was were the Diggers had built steps into the side of the mountain that

after some rain were determined to be more of a hindrance then help). This took us up

to Imita Ridge (final point where the Aussies werent going to budge from on the

retreat from Kokoda). The view across the valley to Ioribaiwa Ridge was phenomenal

and put into perspective how much we still had to travel today.

It was then downhill to where we had originally planned to camp for Day 1 at Dump

44 or Ua-Ule Creek, which was a beautiful little oasis. I had a slip in the last 10m of

the descent and cut my right hand. Not the smartest thing Ive done but it was all

because I saw it as easy and just switched off. Dr Wal patched me up and we were

right to go again after a little drink/snack break.

The group had now split and there were 6 of us in the middle (Geoff, Scot, Cam,

James, Greg and myself) and luckily we had Tom with us as we now had to navigate

10 creek crossing which some were very tricky. It was even hard at stages to follow

where the track was going. Even with Toms help 2 of the group went in and Greeney

just decided to take the safe option and plough straight through since he was already

wet from his fall in one of the first crossings.

Once we had completed the crossings it was back up again to 720m (with slightly wet

boots and light rain falling again) to our lunch stop at Ioribaiwa Village. By this stage

there was 2.5hours between when the first of the group arrived at lunch to the rear.

They worst thing about this was Greg, Cam and I (wed been dropped by James and

Scot with Geoff further down behind us) stopped for a small break to only find that

lunch was only another 5 mins walk from therenot happy.


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After lunch it was another hard climb to the top of Ioribaiwa Ridge and because of the

rain you could hear and feel the mud sucking your feet down. Even through all of this

our local Carriers were either in barefoot, pluggers or Dunny Volleys (Im surprised

they make shoes wide enough for their feet). Very impressive.

Once at the top of the ridge, and it wasnt much space up there, was our first

encounter with bunkers/trenches built by both Australian and Japanese troops.

From here it was another downhill of 400m (you start to get the pattern) to our camp

on Ofi Creek (which was the scene for a large battle were Australian Troops tempted

starving Japanese into the creek with floating bully beef tins to then shoot dead

approximately 50 soldiers in one go).

Speaking to Chris about the camp sites since he was here 6 years ago and they have

improved dramatically (they now include some covered buildings and pit toilets) and

more numerous.

Ofi Creek was a great little creek for a swim/soak of the sore/stiff body, followed by

dinner and I was in the tent by 7.30pm.

Today was a very hard day for me carrying over 20kgs. I think Im the only one (apart

for the carriers) carrying this much and the guys could really tell that I was hurting

especially just before lunch. On the climb I had to stop every 5 10 mins and do

some real soul searching. Ive worked out that if I push through for the next 2 hard

days Ill be ok as it will then be the downhill into Kokoda.


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Well just have to hope that I have a better sleep tonight (there was some solid snoring

last night thanks to Chris, James and Greg plus sleeping on the short side of the tent

and not fitting) and not as sore in the morning.

I really miss the girls and its them plus the history of this place that got me through

today.

Days Stats:-

Distance 14kms

Climbing Elevation 630m

Descent 800m


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Day 4 08/06/09 (Track Day 3)

Today was a very hard day for me. We climbed out of Ofi Creek (it was a boots off

creek crossing at the very startno log crossings here just plough straight across). It

is interesting to note that each year (if not multiple times a year) the majority of

bridges are washed away and have to be started from scratch.

After the crossing it was straight into a 750m climb to the peak of Maguli Range. We

now started to encounter things called False Peaksbut I and some of the others

started referring to them as rest peaksas the flat would allow us to catch up breath

and give the legs a rest before the next climb.

We now realise that we are where the war was on as there were multiple Australian

and Japanese fox holes all over the track and at the top of this first climb there was a

large Japanese command bunker with gun emplacements.

Lunch was at a lovely little spot, referred to as Station 88, at the bottom of what is

called the Japanese Staircase (similar principle to the Golden Stairs except built by the

Japanese) and for the first time we were able to buy fresh bananas from some locals.

It was an earlier lunch that normal but that only place for a stop on our climb. It was

then pushing on up again and finally to the peak of the range.


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Even at 1350m in elevation the view were fantastic, though some of our ascent anddescents we were walking through mist/fog/low cloud cover.

From the peak it was all downhill (around 350m) to our lunch stop of the New Nauro

Village (our first proper village on the trek). Along the trek we can see that there are a

couple of New villages with the Wartime ones being abandoned due to various

reasons. Nauro was a picturesque place with a bunch of locals out waiting for us as

soon as we arrived as we were the 2nd group to arrive after the scouts and the Bundy

Brothers.

We pretty much have out walking order sorted out by now with the brothers from

Bundaberg out front trying to race the scouts (n.b. one of the rules set on us is no onein front of the scouts and no one behind Max). Then it was a group of 5 of us (Cam,

Scot, Greg, James and I) with either Tom or Big Kev for guidance. Next was Geoff

and Bernie followed by Susie and Ben with Guy and Chris at the back.

At Nauro it was our first experience with a local airfield. Uphill for landing and

downhill for takeoff and the grass is all keep relatively short by the local ladies with

machetes.


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It was then further downhill from here into hell (30mins of mosquito invested swamps

with some very dodgy creek crossings) and there in the middle of all of this was our

campsite which was a lovely little place.

You wouldnt believe how nice it was to have a sit/wash in the cool creek (not one of

Scots favourite things the old cold water) after cleaning all the mud from our gear. I

must say though that my left knee has started to give me some grief today (a lot of

downhill with all the weight). Well just have to see how it goes tomorrow.

Dinner was our good ol cabbage mix but with choco vines and powdered mash whicheveryone devoured. It was also our first pretty dry day, apart from some early rain and

the swamp, so our normal finish to the day is everyone around the fire trying to dry

socks and boots.

Another big day tomorrow, around 10hours, so much so that we need to be up by 5am

and on the track by 6.30am at the latest.

Two more days puts us to the Kokoda Gap and then its pretty much downhill from

there.

Days Stats:-

Distance 11.5kms

Climbing Elevation 750ms

Descent 575m


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Day 5 09/06/09 (Track Day 4)

This would have to be one of the hardest days or things that I have done in my life

both physically and mentally. The last 3 days we have had to push slightly harder thenplanned to catch up for the ground/time lost on day 1.

Earlier start of 5am, slept better in the tent as we are now sleeping along the long side,

and it was then back into the swap another 30mins. In the middle there was a large log

(one very big tree had been cut down for this one) over the Brown River and then

finally out of the swamp. You dont know how good it was to have that behind us.

We were then faced with our first climb for the day called The Wall which

physically and mentally pushed my limits. It was one hour of pure pain that had medoubting myself and ability. The majority of us stopped (or partially collapsed) at a

lookout out over Nauro. We finally reached the top and as per norm it was then back

down and through the Village of Menari, which we could see from the top.

Once through Menari, we continued downhill to another creek crossing. From here it

was another 2.5hours of hard climbing (described on the map as Very step & tiring

incline) to reach the top called Brigade Hill. This was the scene of one of the biggest

and well known battles of this war. It was great to listen to Chris talk about this battle

and at the same time to see the sheet cliffs that Potts thought would protect him from

the Japanese but didnt.


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Whilst stopped here and for something different it started raining again and continued

into our next descent to Efogi 1 but not to make it too easy we had a few more sharp

little climbs and descents first.

Coming round a bend and with the rain and mist lifting it was one of the most

amazing views so far we you could spot all the villages ahead Kagi, Efogi 1 andEfogi 2 (including their airstrips). Like usual it was still another 30mins of ups and

downs to get to the village of Efogi 1. Our original aim was to make the ascent to

Efogi 2 today but we wouldve had to do this in the dark. It was great and different to

have the little stop before the final descent into camp at a point about 10mins out that

over looked the whole village and valleythis was something that the boys said they

always do. They were very breathtaking views.

Once at the campsite, a little area set aside in the middle of the Village for trekkers,

we were given the luxury of a low, long building with mattresses and pillows (veryflash) along with some cockroaches. Here, some of the guys had a couple of beers

(not the coldest as ice doesnt exist out here) but I declined and saving myself for the

end. Ive set myself a goal of not having a drink until we finish the trek. This will be

my little reward at the end for completing this exhausting but monumental trek.


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In all we were on the track for 10.5hours and we have been told that we have a similar

day tomorrowIm soooo excited. I just need to get through this and then its the

downhill/home run to Kokoda. Cant wait to see my girls again soon but cant believe

that it is only Tuesday.

Days Stats:-

Distance 16kms


Descent 1295m


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Day 6 10/06/09 (Track Day 5)

Finally, weve broken her back and have climbed over Mt Bellamy and have started

our descent down to the treks final destination of Kokoda.

I have to state here that the last two days have push me (and Im sure others in thegroup) to both physical and mental limits.

After a great nights sleep in our plush abodeyou dont know how fantastic it was to

have those proper mattresses and pillows, it was back on the track to Efogi 2 (uphill

of course). It started with a nifty little creek crossing and then on the ascent we passed

a group of cute little kids in their school uniforms on the way to school. Now that was

commitment, making the descent to and ascent from school each day, as this climb

put a lot of us to the test. This climb took around 30mins and after it I was wishing

that we had gotten it out of the way last night.

Up at the top there were spectacular views of Efogi 1, Kagi, Naduli and the Ranges. Itwas a view that put what wed done and still had to complete into perspective. It also

gave us our first proper glimpse of Mt Bellamy, whose peak was hidden by snow

(fog/mist) most of the time.

Like after all our climbs it was back down again and then another tiring, but not the

worst, ascent up to Naduli. It was here that we were given the pleasure and honour of

meeting one of the very few surviving Fuzzy Wuzzy Angles and to listen to his story.

It was unbelievable to listen first hand to what the FWAs had to do and got put

through, cause without them we wouldnt have won this war.

It was now extremely warm and this stop allowed us the chance (which at most dry

stops everyone does now) of drying our clothes and towels.

Id just like to point out that Uncle Cam is the big hit of all the villages with his

supply of Footy Cards. N.B. For all future trekkers.take footy cards.


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After this stop we were off again mid morning with the goal of reaching camp 1900

for lunch before taking on the pass at 2190 metres.

Because of this hard climb and the lack of water we stopped early at a cliff edge,

which I believe wouldve had breathtaking views back to Port Moresby but becauseof the thick cloud cover you could only see 50 metres or so.

As we were still on the ascent and had to stop early there was no water supply so as

were still making the ascent to this spot, Batman and Robin, had jumped in with the

scouts and went back down the track about 20mins and carry water back up. There

was no chance of me doing this as it wouldve broken me doing some of this climb

twice in a row.

It was here at the lunch stop that the rain hit us, and the Tellie Tubbies got their pastel

raincoats out, and as Im writing this at 7:55pm it is still raining.

At the end of lunch, which was a very quick one for us, 9 of the 13 in the group (along

with Max our guide) set a cracking

pace for 30 minutes so that we

could take a side trip to visit a B25

crash site, whilst the remainder of

the group and the carriers

continued on towards our next

camp site.

This pace, for some of us in places,

had us nearly running. I know that

Chris really enjoyed this chance to

release the shackles of being at the

back and doing some fast trekking.

Greg and I left the site, large crater

with bits of plane everywhere,

before everyone else as were are

the slowest climbers of this smaller

group. We got back out onto the

main track and onto our next ascent, which took an hour and 20 minutes, before theothers.

On the ascent we were gradually picked off by Batman & Robin, Ben & Susie and

Wal whilst passing Guy and Geoff at various stages.

I found the crossing over the top quite depressing but realistic of what happened

during the war with all the rain and mud plus hills that we have had to deal with

today.

Greg, Wal and I finally arrived at our camp of Dump 1 just after 4pm (9 hours in total

today on the road adding to the 10 from yesterday) just behind Cam and Bernie.Where, as usual, at the site of the camp I went arse over but luckily I had my pack on


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as Wal, who was behind me, reckons the tree stump I landed on wouldve punctured

my back. However, I did break Millies plate that I had brought along to use for a

dinner plate.

At a very cold and wet camp we split across 2 buildings (Susie, Ben, James and Chris

in one with the rest of us in the other) trying to find a dry spot where we wouldnt getwater dripped on us. Everyone broke out the sleeping bags and warm clothes tonight

as apart from being cold and wet, we where still above 1800 metres.

Only a few of us braved the cold water for a shower with most opting out till

tomorrow but we dont really care as its only 2 more nights on the trail and we are on

the downhill stretch.

My body and mind are really struggling after the last 2 exhausting and punishing days

but it has all been worth it for the experience.

Days Stats:-

Distance 20.5kms (including 2kms for crash site visit)


Descent 930m


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Day 7 11/06/09 (Track Day 6)

Well last nights sleep wasnt as plush as the night beforeit would actually have to

be the worst so far of the trip. Between the rats crawling around the shack, playing

toesys with Bernie as some of us we sleeping toe to toe (even slightly crossing over),

the heavy rain and leaking roof it was 5 star accommodation. It also got very coolovernight, first night I didnt wake up all the time from overheating, as we were still

around 1900 metres at Dump 1.

All of us were up before our 6am wakeup call in our shack and were all set to get

underway, after our very wet day previously. We were trying to guess how much rain

wed had the day before and that night and we came up with around 1 to 2 inches of

solid rain had fallen on us.

It was straight into a creek crossing and the uphill again (something different). Today

we were all on the lookout more then yesterday for both Australian and Japanese

foxholes.

Once over the climb it was down to Templetons Crossing which was were there was

a large battle (a quick stop for us here) and then it was back up again. Even though

these climbs arent as steep as the previous days ones I still found it extremely hard

as fatigue was really taking its toll on me and setting in earlier in the day then

previous.

We then had a hard push onto Eora Creek for our next stop and the next major battle

site on the trek. It was an amazing place and there were numerous foxholes along this

ascent/descent. It was funny watching Ben run around off the track trying to find

more holes and when Cam took a photo of Susie and Ben lying in two of these holes

with their poles like rifles.

Speaking of Ben & Susie, the walking was different today as I started at the back

today, not in the 2nd group, with Cam and Chris. We had a great time talking rugby

and junk. I then moved up a little bit and did the main stretch into lunch with Cam,

Ben and Susie.

Walking down into Eora Creek, which for years the locals wouldnt drink from

because of all the dead bodies found in it, was breathtaking. It was a beautiful,

tranquil and picturesque place with a refreshing little waterfall right next to the lunchcamp site. We all commented that this would be the perfect place to camp for the

night. When you add in the full sunshine and warmth the campsite quickly turned into

a laundry mat with all trying to dry out, as much as possible, the saturated gear from

yesterday.

Todays lunch we noticed that our food supplies we starting to dwindle, but it with the

volume down on previous days it was still enough for everyone (except Benwho I

believe can never be full).

Leaving lunch (across another tree creek crossing which Guy, Wal and Cam have

shown to be their fortes) we walked a quick 20 minutes to a point where we alldumped our packs with the carriers so that Max could take us all up a steep climb to a


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Japanese artillery emplacement overlooking Eora Creek. Seeing this and the size of

the cannon, it was mid blowing that the Japanese were able to move something so

heavy and large over such large distances and difficult/steep terrain. At this stop Cam

developed an itch so we started back down before the rest of the group. With Robin

(Andrew) already gone ahead with the scouts Batman (Peter), Cam, Schooners, Wal

and I started off to our night campsite at Alola (supposedly 2 hours awaywasnt italways 2 hours).

It was actually a nice up and down (there is always an up straight after the downs

here) to another log creek crossing. From here, Big Kev (Wal and Gregs carrier) told

us it was another 30 60 minutes climb to the campsite with it being very steep

towards the top. Up we went and as we all pretty much know our climbing pecking

order in this smaller group I was last with Big Kev right behind me.

During this climb I can tell you that it only takes one small distraction or loss of

concentration and you could die on this trek. There are a lot of the time vines hanging

down, some with spikes, and I got some of these caught on my hat and whilst I wasattempting to free my hat and because I was standing on a wet rock my right foot

slipped out from underneath me. This slip put me over the edge and down I went. If it

wasnt for me having my big pack on it wouldve been more then a couple of metres I

went downwe dont really know how far I wouldve gone but it wouldnt have been

pretty. Cam and Big Kev helped me back out, after Id had a minute or two to gather

my thoughts, and we finished the climbwhich was a blur because of my adrenalin

was pumping big time for a bit. Even though the whole climb only took us 25 minutes

it still hurt me and used up a lot of my reserves.

Alola is a beautiful place and would be more so if for the fact that we were

surrounded by Snow as supposedly you can see down the valley to Kokoda and

beyond. We are all shacked up together (except for Ben & Susie and Andrew & Peter)

in a neat 4 bedroom hut with a tin room and lino floor.


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I know that I wasnt going to have any beers until Kokoda but after my little scare this

afternoon I joined the guys and we had 2 eachalong with some radioactive twisties.

Last day on the track tomorrow and supposedly mostly downhill, though it is still

another 8 to 9 hours of walking. Im very glad for this as I dont know if I could takeanother big day as the feet and knees are starting to struggle. However, this is a great

group that Im with and the comradeship has ensured that we all get through each day

and has made the journey that much more enjoyable and memorable.

Days Stats:-

Distance 13kms

Climbing Elevation 405ms

Descent 1015m


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Day 8 12/06/09 (Track Day 7)

Well what a night, last night. We had some very heavy rain and wind hit us around

11pm that had water coming through the tin roof and the hut moving. It wokeeveryone up and had some people moving sleeping arrangements, especially in the

room shared by James, Bernie and Guy. Finally everyone got back to sleep but those

mysterious snorers made an appearance again much to everyones delight.

In the morning we got up to a group of the local women haggling with Max and the

guys with the idea that wed short changed them some money. It was interesting

watching all of this occur whilst we were packing up. It was all resolved and after a

special Tom breakfast we were on our way.

A couple of down sections saw us eventually reach Isurava, which is home to the

main Kokoda Trek memorial and sight of one of the main battles. This place is likeBomana where my poor English doesnt do it justice in an attempt to describe it.

Whilst here we held our own little ceremony with the guys singing the PNG National

Anthem followed by our rendition of Advance Australia Fair. Ben then played the last

post on a tin horn, Susie recited the Ode and Greg the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angle Poem.

During the anthem some of the guys had to stop singing to hold back the tears.


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We then loaded up again and headed off down to Deniki for our lunch stop. This

place, any mainly because we werent affected by Snow, had one of the best views

of the trip.

Upon leaving Deniki we headed into more downhills and this was to become the norm

instead of the early days of just uphills. It was during these downhills that Schooners,

who I saw as one of the better on the downs especially compared to Wal and Cam (I

was in a group with Greg, Wal, Cam and James at this stage) took a cropper not once

but twice. It was on this 2nd fall that Dr Wal and Nurse Cam were called upon to

utilise their vast medical knowledge and supplies to fix up the patient who had picked

himself up some nice puncture wounds.

The first was pretty funny as it was one of slap stick moments of slipping walking on

the pole and landing on the crown jewelswe all got a giggle out of this after the

initial voluntary grab for our own groin.

Not long after this we entered the village of Hoi and the heavens opened on us. The

only relief it that it wasnt cold rain like previous days so it wasnt too bad standing in

it. It is now 8.11pm and the rain is still aroundso its been another one of those

dry days.

We all met at Kovelo Village to walk the last 5 kilometres in together with Guy

leading the way. The track had now turned into a sort of dirt 4wd track so was some

of the better paths wed been on for days.

Locals we becoming more frequent on this section going the other way and then

finally we had arrived. The first building we came to was the hospital but also used as


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rental accommodation for trekkers (some of us seriously had thoughts of moving into

here for the night at they had beds, fridges, TVs and AC). It is amazing that things

like this that we take for granted back home are such a luxury over here.

Finally we reached our campsite for the night, run by an ex local police major, and

everyone unloaded into the large hut except for Ben & Susie and Andrew & Peter,who opted to stay in their tents again.

Once unpacked, we headed to the Kokoda Sign (actual finish of the trek) and to check

out the local museum, which was unfortunately shut. After a couple of quick photos it

was down to the local shop for some supplies and a couple of beers. We each put

money in to get each of the carriers one each (Chris stated that this was all the were

allowed on the track or the can go a bit Crazy).

When you walk into the shopsurrounded by locals and all the Blood spit stains

you notice that it has security fencing and grills all over it but it was run by Asians. I

thought to myselffor f*cks sakeyou travel to another country and instead oflocals running the shop its another corner store run by Asians. It was here the Greg

determined that 3 beers wasnt enough for him so he and I bought another 6 pack

between us.

Supplied up we headed back to the camp site, no showers once again as it was dark

now and a tricky trip down to the creek bed was advised against, to prep for bed and

have dinnerwhich initially consisted of more Radioactive Twisties and Beers.

After proper dinner, Ben pulled out the goods, which included up small Bundy Rum

bottle and some Sumatran Cigarsoh how good was this! It then turned into a great

night with Ben and Wal taking turns on the harmonica, Cam telling jokes and

everyone else trying and all the boys having a bit of a sing along which was then over

shadowed by the carriers starting up their sing-song with guitar support (which then

continued all through the night till morning).

Today was a mentally tough day for me as I expecting it to be flatter or no inclines

and also I didnt move as fast as normal because of my little scare yesterday.

Tomorrow we have our plane coming to get us around 9am 10am, so its not as

early start but still up before 7am so that we can pack, organise all the details and go

get some more photos at the Kokoda sign, try the museum and get over to the airport.

We are all just looking forward to a sleep in a bed with a simple mattress and pillow

and off the ground.

This has really made me think of how easy we have life and how much we take for

granted back home.

Days Stats:-

Distance 20.5kms

Climbing Elevation 200ms Descent 1168m


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Day 9 13/06/09 (Track Day 8)

Well were back in Port Moresby (I must admit that I didnt write this entry till the

next day as the majority of us werent in any condition that night to function after a

few too many drinks and large amounts for food).

We all packed up and gave out to the guys what gear we didnt want to take back.

Also we all gave a bonus to the carriers as without their support I know we wouldnt

have gotten through this as unscathed as we did. From the campsite we headed back

to the Kokoda sign for proper photos, look at the memorials and museum (but it was

shut again and Max threatened them to kick the door in next time if it was locked).

Front Row:- Guy, Geoff (Greeney), Andrew (Robin), Susie & Peter (Batman)

Back Row:- Chris, Cam, Scot (Wal), Bernie, Greg (Schooners), Andrew, Ben &James

From there it was a 1km walk (longer then most of us thought) to the airportand

this involved walking straight up the runway to the Kokoda International Airport

terminal where we all had to give it our personal weights (which I think I shocked

them with 102kgs and our bag weights and again with all my food, water plus some

gear I was still at 17kgs). This was to ensure that they plane could get off the ground.


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It was a bit touch and go for a while if our plane was coming as there was a lot of

cloud cover aroundbut finally it appeared and we all loaded on board. Let me tell

you, our little 17 seater was a little beauty. So much so that, me being the back seat

with Wal and Cam, with one bump to the door/hatch I reckon she wouldve come

open and wed all be skydiving.

However, flying back after the trek is how I recommend doing this journey as you get

to witness, from up high, just how far you have travelled and what the terrain is really

like.

At the airport we were met by Naro and our transportwhich happened to be a dual

cab Nissan Ute (so it was two trips to take all of us and our gear to the hotel). Now the

looks that us in the 2nd groupwho were all sitting in the tray, we getting was pretty

funny as this group of whitefellas (and lady) were travelling around downtown Port

Moresby in the back of Ute.

Our accommodation, was a real treat for us after what wed had, but being behind 3

metre high fences with razor wire and 24 hour guards on the front gate made it

interesting arrival.


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After showers and an initial clean of our gear, we all headed to the Yacht Club for

lunch and drinks. It was an interesting trip but what was more interesting was that no

indigenous people were allowed in the club (closet Ive been to a place that has

segregation).

Though great food, drinks and environment with all 13 of us enjoying a great

afternoon. From here it was back to the hotelsleep for some, cleaning gear for

others or more drinks for Greg.

We continued on for a great night together watching the Wallabies play Italy but at

the end only Cam, James and I (as Wal and Greg were asleep in their chairs) were

left. So early night really for all as we had to be back up for 4am or so for the flight

home.


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Day 10 14/06/09

Im finally home and what an experience. So much occurred and Im so thankful that

Trace really urged me to take my pen and paper and make a journal of the tripas I

know she and a lot of people (let alone the tour group) are keen to read this story.

You cant tell how nice it is to be at your own home, shower, bed etc with your family

until you go away and do something like this. Also how much we really take for

granted in Australia.

Plus the amount of respect of have for the men who were part of the original Kokoda

track and the warIm take off my hat and salute these brave people.

It was a bit of a rush in the morning as people struggled to get goingI know I did as

mentally I wasnt prepared for another early start even though Id gotten 7 hours of

solid sleep.

Finally we were all at the airport and let tell youpretty funny when people just pass

stuff to each other around the metal detectorsgreat security.

Also watching 8 of us try and con our way into the Qantas Lounge, especially when

we werent booked on Qantas tickets was even funnier.

However, easy flight back to Brisbanethough Ben & Susie stressed the whole way

whether they would get their connecting flight to Sydney and then to Jakarta etc. I

never seen people in real life run between flightsbut I tagged along as I was on their

Brisbane to Sydney flight and we did only have 1 hour to get through customs and to

the domestic airport. We all made our flights and got home which was great though.

So in total we travelled around 108kms, climbing 5.96kms and descended 6.1kms

over 7 days.

If I can give any tips (and this was discussed between the group a bit) if you want to

do this:

1. Train for this, especially with your full pack and do some serious climbs

and descent. Then back up the next day.2. Get yourself good backpack, boots and socks.

3. Take 4 sets of socks

4. Get yourself a comfortable mattress and pillow

5. Keep your pack as light as possible

6. Dont do it during the wet season

7. If you get a carrier take a carton of cigarettes for them.

So finally I just was to say a big thank you to Chris, Max and the guys for looking

after me and to Schooners, Wal, Cam, James, Guy, Bernie, Batman, Robin, Greeney,

Ben & Susie for making this a remarkable, enjoyable and unforgettable experience for

me.

kokoda journal shrink

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