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RUSHCLIFFE DISTRICT SCOUTS

KNOTTING

Compiled by D. Howard ©

Rushcliffe District Scout Council Registered as a Charity, Number 522469

December 2015

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Lashings - Please look at scoutbase.org.uk for Scout Skills Lashings for instructions.

Difficulty Page

Bowline *** 10

Clove Hitch ** 7

Common Whipping *** 17

Double Sheet Bend *** 8

Figure of Eight * 3

Fireman’s Chair Knot **** 11

Fisherman’s Knot **** 10

Handcuff Knot **** 11

Highwayman’s Hitch ** 5

Manharness Knot ***** 13

Reef Knot ** 4

Round Turn and Two Half Hitches *** 9

Sheepshank **** 9

Sheet Bend ** 8

Slip Reef ** 4

Surgeon’s Knot ** 5

Thumb, Simple or Overhand Knot * 3

Timber Hitch ** 6

Trucker’s or Waggoner’s Hitch **** 12

Turk’s Heads ***** 14

Missile Launcher – Project 18

Skylon - Project 20

Difficulty

* Easy

** Fairly Easy

*** Moderate

**** Needs practice

***** Use the Diagrams

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SIMPLE, OVERHAND or THUMB KNOT

Tied in the end of a cord to stop it slipping through anything or a rope from fraying.

Make a loop in the cord and tuck the end through the loop.

Pull tight

FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOT

Tied in the end of a cord to stop it slipping through anything, gives more bulk than the thumb knot.

Make a loop in the cord. Take the end round the standing part. Tuck the end through the loop.

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REEF KNOT

Used to join materials of equal thickness. Easily untied

SLIP REEF

Used to join materials of equal thickness. Even more easily untied than the reef knot.

Left over right and under

Right over left and under Pull tight

Left over right and under

Right over left Make a loop in the left hand cord

and put the loop under Pull tight

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SURGEONS KNOT Used to join materials of equal thickness. More secure than the reef knot.

HIGHWAYMAN’S HITCH

For securing a line to a rail. Very quickly undone with a quick pull on the short end.

Left over right and under

and under again Right over left

and under Pull tight

Form a loop

in the rope

and pass up

behind the

rail.

Make a loop in the

standing part of the

rope and put through

the first loop from the

front. Pull the free

end gently to trap the

second loop.

Then make a

loop in the

free end and

pass it

through the

second loop

Pull the standing end

gently to trap the third

loop.

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TIMBER HITCH

For attaching a line to a spar. The harder the pull the firmer the knot grips. Easily untied.

Make turn over

the spar

Cross the end over

the standing part And back

Wrap the end back round its self and twice more Pull tight

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CLOVE HITCH A firm knot for attaching a line to a spar. Used on its own or as the start of some lashings.

Method 1 - At the end of a line in the middle of the spar.

Method 2 - Can be tied in the end or middle of the cord when the end of the spar is available.

Make two loops in the rope Cross the loops

over

Slip the loops over the end of the spar Tighten the rope

Put the rope

over the

spar.

Bring it round and

cross over. Take it round again

and tuck the end

under as shown

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SHEET BEND To join two cords of unequal thickness. Use the more secure double sheet bend where one cord is

much thinner than the other.

DOUBLE SHEET BEND

Make a loop in the thicker rope Put the end of the thinner rope

up through the loop Then round

behind the loop

Pass the end under itself to

lie on top of the loop

Carefully pull tight.

Make a loop in the thicker rope Put the end of the thinner rope up

through the loop Then round behind

the loop

Pass the end under itself

to lie on top of the loop

Pass the end round the loop again

and under itself to lie on top of the

loop

Carefully pull tight.

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ROUND TURN AND TWO HALF HITCHES

A very secure knot for attaching a line to a post. Tightens when pulled, but easily untied.

SHEEPSHANK For shortening a rope or taking the strain off damage on the centre strand.

Make a turn round

the spar Wrap the working end

round the standing and

thread it through

Wrap the working end round

the standing and thread it

through a second time

Pull tight.

Make an ‘S’ in the standing part Then make two loops as shown

Pull the ends of the

‘S’ through the loops

Carefully pull tight

damage

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BOWLINE For making a loop in the end of a rope. Often used round the waist for climbing.

‘The rabbit comes up the hole, round the tree and back down the hole’

FISHERMAN’S KNOT The fisherman’s knot makes use of two Thumb knots. For joining two lines. Easily untied.

Set up the cords as shown and tie a thumb knot in each of the ends.

Make sure the thumbs knots are tied as shown that when the knot is pulled tight the thumb knots lie

snugly together.

Make a loop in the

standing part

Put the end back

down the hole Carefully pull tight

Put the end up through

the loop and behind the

standing part

Pull tight

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HANDCUFF KNOT

Forms two adjustable loops. The start of the Fireman’s Chair knot.

FIREMAN’S CHAIR KNOT

Forms two secure loops. The loops need adjusting before the half hitches are tied.

Tie the handcuff knot as in 1 to 4 above

Make two loops in the rope Cross the loops over

Pull through Pull tight. Adjust loops by pulling

the free ends or the loops

Make a half hitch in

each end of the rope

then slip them over

the big loops as

shown.

Pull through

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TRUCKER’S OR WAGGONER’S HITCH

Used for lashing down a load by acting like a pulley. Pulling the short end tightens the main rope.

Make a loop in the

standing part and in

the loose end as

shown.

Put the loop in the

loose end through

the loop in the

standing part

Twist the big

loop formed.

Take the loose end

round the anchor point

and back through the

big loop.

Carefully pull tight. (A

stick can be put through the

top loop to stop it pulling

out of the loop in the

standing part.)

(Stick if needed)

Anchor Point

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MANHARNESS KNOT

To tie the Manharness Knot in the middle of a rope to make a secure loop.

The pictures show the tying of the knot from the tier’s view

Put the rope over your left

shoulder, down across the

body and under the right foot.

Grasp the rope by your left

shoulder with your left hand

and with your right hand at

about waist level.

With your left

hand fold the

rope down and

grasp both pieces

of rope in your

left hand.

You are now

holding a loop in

your right hand.

Pull to the right to pass

behind the main rope….

With your right hand fold the

loop down so there is one leg

of the loop on each side of

the main rope.

Put your right hand through

the right side of leg of the

loop and then behind the

main rope, get hold of the left

hand side leg

Pull tight while

working the loop to

the size required

…..and in front of

the right hand side

leg of the loop.

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TURK’S HEAD - 3 BIGHT X 4 LEAD ON FORMER

A decorative series of knots. Often used for making a woggle.

Sometimes flattened out to make a mat.

7 - Follow round twice and

take out slack to finish

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SQUARE TURK’S HEAD - 4 BIGHT X 3 LEAD ON HAND

7 Close up and follow round as required

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TURK’S HEAD - 5 BIGHT X 4 LEAD ON HAND

7 Close up and follow round as required

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COMMON WHIPPING

To stop the end of a rope from fraying.

Make a loop in the end of

the whipping twine and

put the loop on the rope

Wrap the long end round

the rope and loop

Wrap the twine tightly and

neatly towards the loop. Put the long end through the loop

Pull the short end so the loop

and long end are pulled under

the turns to about half way

Trim the ends of the

twine and, if necessary

the rope end.

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MISSILE LAUNCHER

Equipment list

120cm Canes - 6

Strong rubber bands for joints

Strong rubber bands or 4mm or 5mm bungee cord

75mm strong plastic plant pot

Missiles

Tennis balls or soft balls

Or

Sponges about the same size as tennis balls

and

Bucket of Water

Make the frame

Make a triangle with three 120cm canes using rubber bands. To make the joint loop a band over the

end of one of the canes then pulling the band tight wrap it round both canes and finish off by

looping the band over one of the canes.

Attach the loose end of each cane

to a corner of the triangle to make

a pyramid.

Bundle one end of another

three 120cm canes together

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Prepare and fit the launch mechanism

Make 3 holes evenly spaced round the rim of the plant pot.

If using rubber bands for the firing mechanism make 3 chains of equal length from the bands.

Push one end of a chain through one of the holes in the plant pot from the outside thread the long

end of the chain through the end band and pull tight to secure the bands to the plant pot. Repeat for

the other two bands. When mounting the mechanism loop the long ends of the chains over the frame

corners and adjust the chains so that the plant pot is central in the frame and, by experimenting ,

adjust the tension so that when the plant pot is pulled back there is sufficient tension to project the

missile a good distance.

Alternatively:-

Attach a length of bungee cord to each hole in the plant pot. Thread an end from inside and tie a

figure of eight knot in the end on the outside. The knot needs to tight to stop it coming undone.

Tie the long ends to the corners of the frame, adjusting the tension in each cord as for the rubber

bands.

Missiles can be wet sponges, sponge balls or something similar. Hard objects should not be used to

protect firing crew and bystanders/opponents.

Note: When using canes the frame joints can be made with rubber bands or string

With bigger spars use sisal string or rope depending on the size of the spars. You will also need to

make a larger missile container with bungee cord and a suitable container.

Suggestions for activities:

1) Teams fire wet sponges for a water fight.

2) Who can fire furthest?

3) Relay – Teams fire along a course the next shot being fired from where the missile lands.

Load missile into container. Hold down the base; pull back the

container then

FIRE!

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SKYLON

Kit:

At least 3 pioneers

Base

4 Broom Handles

8 Pegs

Gaffer Tape

Sisal String

Tower

8 Canes 150cm

2 Canes 90 cm

4 Canes 70 cm

Rubber Bands

Make the Base

Put 2 wraps of Gaffer tape at the

Top of each Broom Handle.

Tie a string to one handle and tie

A second handle 3m along the

string. Repeat for the other

2 handles.

Put in 2pegs 1.2 m apart as shown with 5m between opposite pairs.

Tie a string to top of each pole to reach each of the pegs.

Hold a handle upright and attach the guys to its pegs. Hold the opposite handle upright, make sure

the string between the handles is tight and tie the guys to its pegs. Repeat for the other two poles.

Make sure the 3m strings cross in the middle.

Peg

Peg

3m

Broom Handle

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Make the tower

Sort the 8 150cm canes into 2 sets of 4 with thinner canes in one set and thicker canes in the other.

For each set:

Take 2 canes, loop a rubber band over the end of one cane, wrap tightly round both canes and loop

the band over the end of one of the canes. Join the other 2 in the same way. Join the 4 canes

together with another rubber band. There should now be 4 canes joined together at one end.

On one set

Join a 90cm cane to the loose end of one long cane and the other end to the opposite cane. Join the

other 90cm cane to a third long cane cross the 90cm cane over the other 90cm cane and join the end

to the end of the remaining long cane.

Join the other set

Join the 4 x 70 cm canes to adjacent 90m/150cm joints to form a square

The 2nd

set of 150cm canes has each loose cane end joined to one of the corners of the square.

Tie a string to each corner of the square making it long enough to reach a broom handle.

The top of the tower is where the 4 thinner canes meet.

A decoration can be added to the top if desired.

Balance the bottom of the tower (thicker long cane joint) on the base where the 3m strings cross and

tie the tower guys to the top of the broom handles, adjusting to make the tower upright.