kilt final final (1)

8/9/2019 Kilt Final Final (1)

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00 Editors Letter

01 Denim: Market analysis

02 Street style

03 International: Asia

04 International: Europe

05 International: North America

06 Boy meets girl07 Rebel jean

08 Movement

09 The small things

10 Stop taking the P

11 Be good


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F i g 0 . 1 2

F i g 0 . 1 4

F i g 0 . 1 3

F i g 0. 1

F i g 0 . 1 6

F i g 0 . 1 5

Members:Olivia Elle WrightMcleanLucy WooSamantha Munoz

Andrea Della MattiaZoe RobertsDanielle Mayo

Fig 0.2 Faustine Steinmeiz A/W 14 embroi-dered jean, Anon. 2014.

Fig 0.3 Embelished Shorts Anon, n.dFig 0.4 Blue watercolour . Anon, n.d.

Fig 0.5 Xinyan Dai sustainable denim work. Xin-yan Dai, 2013

Fig 0.6 Blue watercolour . Anon, n.d.

Fig 0.7 Denim textures.Anon, n.d.Fig 0.8 Raw edge denim street style photo. Anon, n.d.

Fig 0.9 Blue ink in water. kokoshadow, 2014.Fig 0.1, 0.12, 0.13, 0.14, 0.15, 0.16 Selfie o editors,

Wright Mclean. O. Woo. L, Munoz. S et al. 2015.


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Tis latest issue o KIL is is an innovativeissue or Denim trends or WomenswearAutumn Winter 2016/2017. Consistingo analysis o the vast market growth,consumer demographic and primary research.

In this issue we ocus on 3 key influencial uturetrends these are Rebel Jean: the uture o rebelliouscustomisation. Boy meets girls: the concepto boyish silhouettes on women and finallyMovement. Tis trend ocuses on raw denim- lacko movement and encel/lycra mixed denim- pro-movement. Tese trends have all been influencedby international Bubble up trends rom urban streetstyle and trickle down rom various catwalk trends .

International aspect is an advantage with editors

rom our team coming rom various countriesaround the world giving us a deeper insightinto the cultural influences such as, Canadiantuxedo, Harajuku, Punk and dance culture.

So, we hope you enjoy the uture o denim.

00 Editors Letter

F r o n t p a g e : F i g 0 . 1 I n k , w a t e r , s

l o w s h u t t e r s p e e d , t w o c o l o u r m i x . A n o n , 2 0 1 5 .

F i g 0 . 1 0 . D e n i m w a t e r c o l o u r a r t . A n o n , 2 0 1 5 .


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F i g 0 . 1 1 . X i m o n L e e G r a

d u a t e c o l l e c t i o n , A n o n , 2 0 1 4 .


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with its price architecture ranging rom $9 to $69 whichaccording to appendix A reflects on both economyand premium market level o denim. ContradictingFig 1.1 which expresses downall in super premium jeans, although the % o sales value growth has gonerom -6.8 in 2008-2012 to 0.1 in 2012/2013 which is asignificant growth and gives promise or super premiumand premium jeans in the up and coming seasons.

Fig 1.1 Global Super premium jeans sales from 2008-2013, Passport, 2014.

Movement jeans: a juxtaposition of sportswear and jean

With sportswear juxtaposing with jeans being oneo the next big innovative uture trends as ound inrecent market research, sports apparel as a markethas almost double or uture growth in 2013-2018.With companies like Lycra and Made Gold creatingcollections dedicated to denim being worn and ascomortable as sports apparel, thus possibly combiningboth o the jean and sports apparel value in sales orthe uture as these new concept jeans can be worn or

Key findings: rom market research:

• Super premium jeans are a growing market with risesin value o 6% in the United Kingdom, 10% in Chinaand 3% in Canada.• Asia Pacific had the highest proportion o premium/super-premium jeans, ollowed closely by the MiddleEast and Arica.• Leading jean brands:o UK: Dieselo China: Levio Canada: Joe Fresh

Super premium and premium jeans

he market or denim is the most prominent ithas ever been, with rises in value o 5% in theUK, 2% in Canada and 8% in China in 2013,

in conjunction to previous years this is a orevergrowing market. With super premium heavily on therise, economy jeans are suffering as the more luxury

denim brands are being avoured (See appendix A ordefinitions on levels o denim), or instance Levi Straussin China is the leading jean brand, with its pricingexceeding super premium starting pricing as well asUnited Kingdom’s leading jean brand Diesel. It seemsnow is the perect time to invest in super premium,premium sub-brands or materials as even with previousrecession internationally this market is still booming.Although this isn’t the case or Canada, it’s a slowgrowing market or super premium jeans; with thatmarket peaking at 2010-2011 it looks like the superpremium jean trend is now in its laggard’s stageaccording to the diffusion o innovations (Rogers, 2003).With Joe Fresh being the leading jean brand in Canada


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both sports and casual wear. A survey that we conductedrevealed that the women who are between the ages o18 and 25 are heavily concerned about their jeans beingcomortable with 90% o women agreeing or stronglyagreeing, with the denim being mixed with encel therecovery o the jean is 95% allowing it to be durableflexible and comortable enough to be used in sports

Primary market research

Key findings rom independent survey:• opshop and Levi were the top two ranked jean brand• Jeans washed when dirt was visible or every othertime• £36-45 most common buying price o jeans

Asurvey the team conducted gave insight to howthe target consumer shops and and what sorto products they want on the denim market.

From the survey the discoveries gave the consumera average profile. Tis profile is a lady who:• Wears skinny and straight leg jeans

• Spends between £36-45 on them• Doesn’t customise denim clothing• Calls themselves a trend ollower• op 2 avourite jean brands are opshop and Levi

See Appendix B or all survey tables and graphs.

0.00% 5.00% 10.00% 15.00% 20.00% 25.00% 30.00% 35.00%

I don't I swap my jeans

£0-10

£11-25

£26-35

£36-45

£46-65

£66-80

£81-100

£101+

How much do you spend on a pair of jeans on average?


Ranked first as favourite jean..

Straight leg Jeggings Flares Bootcut

Skinny Mom jean Boyfriend jean Cropped

Drop crotch Dungarees Other

Fig 1.2 Global value sales of sports apparel vs Jeans market from 2013-2018. Passport, 2014.

-

Fig 1.3 Excel graphs created from a survey conducted.Wright Mclean, O. 2014.


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01 Denim: Consumer Analysis

Key findings rom market research:

• Majority o 18-25 are students• Graduate jobs pay more• Generation Y think more about their

buying habits beore they spend• Generation Y are more aware o theirshopping options and choices theypossess

Who are they?

Women aged 18-25 are more commonlyknown in society as ‘Generation Y’, ageneration whose ideas and thinkingprocesses are not the same as those beore

Generation Y are the generation that, unlikeGeneration X, want to change the worldand are ‘almost nauseatingly worthy, keento volunteer and aware that an educationis to be treasured’ (Wallop, H, 2014).Aer growing up during a time where the mediachoices include television, the web and magazines,Generation Y have been opened up to muchmore diverse levels o marketing strategies, andhave been ‘socialised into consuming earlier than

previous generations’ (Bakewell, C and Mitchell,V-W, 2014). Tis, combined with statistically

higher incomes, has completely changed theirdecision making styles, where shopping isnot the simple act o shopping (Bakewell, Cand Mitchell, V-W, 2014). We can break thesedifferent types o decisions into eight styles:• Price/value consciousness, a decision style that isconcerned with getting lower prices.• Perectionism, a decision style that is concernedwith quality.• Brand consciousness, decision style that isconcerned with getting expensive, well-knownbrands.• Novelty/ashion consciousness, Decision styleor seeking out new things• Habitual/brand-loyal: decision style or shopping

at the same stores and tendency to buy the samebrands each time• Recreational shopping consciousness: decisionstyle that views shopping as being enjoyable• Impulsive/careless: decision style that describesa shopper who does not plan their shopping andappears unconcerned with how much he or shespends• Conused by over choice: decision style thatreflects a lack o confidence and an inability tomanage the number o choices available

(Kendall and Sproles, 1986)


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01 Denim: Consumer Analysis

Primary research

Aer conducting a survey targeted at womenaged 18-25, 50% were between the ages o 20-22,

and 62% were students with another 36% in ulltime employment. 50% o those surveyed lived insuburban areas with 66% earning up to £10,000a year. Tough this is lower than anticipated, itis vital we take into account that the vastmajority surveyed were students. Shopping,gym and socialising were the most commonanswers when asked their three mostcommon activities, and the average personspends £100 or less on apparel per month.

With regards to denim, it was indicated that £26-£35 was the most common amount spent on asingle pair o jeans with £11-25 coming in at aclose second, and most apparel was brought at aHigh Street level. (See Appendix C or ull results)

Tese findings indicate a change in the shoppingbehaviours o this generation. With many nowturning to higher education their shopping habitshave changed due to the lack in finances and

thereore the money available to spend on higherquality items is less o a priority. However, withgraduate entry jobs being paid more on average,it offers higher disposable income in the long run.

0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40%

£0-5,000

£5,001-10,000

£10,001 - 15,000

£15,001 - 20,000

£20,001 - 25,000

£25,001 - 30,000

£30,000+

Annual income before taxes

0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%

I don't swap my jeans

£0-10

£11-25

£26-35

£36-45

£46-65

£66-80

£81-100

£101+

Average Spent on Jeans

0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70%

Value Retailers

High Street

Middle Market

Upper Middle Market

Luxury Market

What market level do you shop for?

Fig. 1.4 - Graphs created romSurvey. Mayo, D. 2015


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Name: Leanna

Age: 21

Occupation:Fashion Stylist

Favourite pair of

Denim: SimpleBlack Skinny

Jean

Name: KirstyAge: 22

Occupation:Nurse

Favourite pairof jeans: Two-

toned SkinnyJean

Name: MelissaAge: 19

Occupation:Fashion Student

Favourite pairof Denim: Acid

Wash FaddedJacket

Name: Courtney

Age: 20Occupation:

Media StudentFavourite pair of

Denim: Skinny

White Jean

Key Findings

Diverse Range ofwashes on variousDenim garments.

Shirts, Jeansand Jackets,

DoubleDenim is all

the range forall specifed

consumer

The majorityof the target

market

where skinnyjeans in thisdemographic

Denim isworn in an

everydaycasualattire and

layered up withother various

apparel

02 Europe Street style


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Name: Helen

Age: 19Occupation: StudentFavourite Denim Iterms:

Oversized DenimJacket

Name: CarlyAge: 22

Occupation: ClerkFavourite pair of jeans:

Stone Washed Skinny jeans

Name: CodyAge: 23

Occupation: Hair

stylistFavourite pair of jeans:

Printed Denim jacket

Name: Karen

Age: 23Occupation: Quality

Control CoordinatorFavourite pair of jeans:

Ripped Skinny jeans

Key Findings:

Skinny jeans are verypopular among this

demographic in Hong Kong. It creates a feminine

aesthetic.

Plain indigo dyeddenim clothing

formulates a day-to-daydressing.

Stone WashedStretch Skinny Jeansprovides the sense of

comfort, that is perfect foraid back holidays.

For the top, aoversized and loose

boyfriend style Jackest is

for must-have item.

02 Hong Kong Street style


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03 International: Asia

Japanese influences are continuing to spreadwith the trend o Harajuku has occupied theentire Asia pacific recently, being adopted

by more and more teenagers. Te story takes

its inspiration rom an Asia aesthetic. Eventhough the look originates rom japan, it isnow a usion o Chinese, Japanese and Korean.

Tis trend makes great use o denim, denim jacket, jeans, accessories and tops. Tesignature item must be dip- dyed denim or jeans with powdery degrade effect, whichmerges two colours together in usual.Powdery colours combined with sweetbrights bring a whole new interpretation.

With a “more is more” aesthetic inspires boldpattern, pints and lots o embellishments onthe denim with youthul confidence. Elementsincludes alphanumeric prints, ethnic prints,cartoon print, placement print, patchwork,embroidery and dip dyed create trulyunique spirited or enlightened individuals.

Patchwork

Adding colours to the denim jacket withusage o different abric and contrastcolours trims in an interesting way, covering

shoulders, cuffs or collar with ethnicpatterned abric interprets the olk style.

Embroidery at back

Customised denim jacket is one o the must-have items about the trend o Haraguku.Denim jacket with a chain stitch embroiderygives the jacket an extra dimension.

Alphanumeric printsA representative brand or Harajuku trend isStylenanda , a Korean brand.Alphanumeric prints could be traced whetherdenim accessories, tops and bottoms.

SilhouetteTe idiosyncratic silhouettes, cropped length,oversized and loose boyriend style, distinguishthe trend.

Iconic celebrity:Hong Kong signer, HeidiKorean Signer, G-dragon

Western early adopters :

Rita ora, Alex Chung, Kate perry and GwenStean

Fig 3.1 - Dyed Denim Shorts.Pinterest, 2014

Fig 3.2 - Chemical Dye Jackets. Pinterest, 2014

F i g 3 . 3 - B l u e w a s

h d e n i m

j a c k e t . R i d s n a p , 2 0 1 4

Fig 3.4 - Unknown, Cae Naver,2014

F i g 3 . 5 -P e a c e N e wE r a C o t t o n

D e n i m C a p . S t yl e n a n a ,2 0 1 4


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Tis season has seen many aspects o retail embrace denim in a variety which hasnever been seen beore. Tere have never been quite so many options on the high streetavailable or customers. From extreme customisation to premium coatings, denim is no

longer a predominantly ‘basic’ actor in the ashion world. Here is a breakdown o keytrends rom this season, which are likely to continue to be updated in ollowing seasons.

F i g 4 . 1 - G u e s s J e a n s , W G S N , 2 0 1 4

F i g4 .2 -L o u i s V u i t t o n S t o r e W

i n d o w . W G S N ,2 0 1 4

F i g4

. 3 -M e t J e a n s H e m . W G S N ,2 0 1 4

F i g

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- M

a r q u

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l m e d

i a f o

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p s h o

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, 2

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this season, seeing the traditional denim jacketmoved orwards into rucker jackets, long linecoats, and quilted bombers. Tese developmentshave been progressive, but have made their wayinto high street stores aer working throughbrands such as Maison Scotch and N&J. Tey

each take a different approaches with regards topracticality, with trucker jackets having a

cosy eel and long line jackets havinga wool like eel. Tis development

on such a classic again suggestsGeneration Y’s constant state ochange and the changes theywant to make in the world.

Premium Coating

Premium coating has been around

or a year or so now, and still showsno sign o moving. From premium

denim brands to value high street stores, thereare many variations across all market levels. Tetechnique adds a pearlescent effect, and brings anew lease o lie to the simpler skinny fit o jean.Tis unique eel brings denim up to anotherlevel, almost asi it were a new abric. Tis trendhas been accepted quickly within Generation Yand looks set to continue through uture seasons.

Pre customized denim is currently seenin all shapes, styles and sizes. Brandssuch as Guess are taking on the rock chic

approach whereas Louis Vuitton recreates theboyriend jeans with eminine lace and MetJeans bedazzle their hems with diamantes andbeads. Tese aspect have begun to trickle thereway down to the high street stores andonto the streets o the UK. Tey haveallowed consumers who do not yethave the confidence to customisetheir own denim to be part oan ever growing trend acrossthe country. As it trickles downwe see stores such as opshoptaking on this customisationaspect, especially within theirprevious collaboration withMarques Almedia, which took

on ‘Extreme shredding’, an updateto the ripped jeans which made anappearance on the high street back inS/S 14. Tese suggest that there will only beurther developments in this trend as we gothrough the next seasons, with GenerationY becoming more and more separated romother generations and wanting to expressthemselves in a much more exaggerated ashion.

Outerwear

Denim cover ups have also taken an update

UK Retailrends

Fig 4.5 - Maison Scotch rucker Jacket . WGSN, 2014 Fig 4.6- N&J Longline Coat . WGSN, 2014 Fig 4.7 - Denim Quilted Bomber . Gap, 2015


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F i g 5 . 6 - V a r i o u s D e n i mF a s h i o n S t y l e .F a s h i onE x p e r t .2 0 1 4 .

F i g . 5 . 8 -M a d a m e D e R o s a .D o s a l I .2 0 1 4 .

F i g . 5 . 7 - Z

o e S a l d a n a M a s t e r s D e n i m - o n - D e n i m . C a r d e l l i n

o C . 2 0 1 3 .

F i g . 5 . 5 - M A N

G O J a n u a r y 2 0 1 3 L o o

k b o o

k . K r e z i c . 2 0 1 4 .


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For many years, the Canadian uxedowas viewed as an ‘offish combo’. In 1951,when Levi’s made Crooner Bing Crosby acustomized tuxedo jacket or being deniedentry in a Canadian hotel, or wearing head-to-toe denim, the Canadian uxedo term was

born. For women, denim trends began withworkwear, to western-cowboy, to rebellious,to fitted and now, young women thriveor a balance between chic and relaxed-fit.In between seasons, AW14/15 and SS15,designers such as Gucci, Chloe, Diesel, Fendiand Marques Almeida, have displayed theCanadian uxedo trend throughouttheir catwalk shows. “While doubledenim has been seen as aashion ail…it seems ashionhouses are keen to changeour perception” (London,B, 2014). Tis evolvingtrend, rom combinationso eminine and masculine;ormal and active; withadded customization, arebecoming the outfits o choiceor young women. Youngproessional women in the very

early stages o their career are wearingmore tailored, eminine variations o theCanadian uxedo, whereas younger women incollege are experimenting with more relaxedboyriend-fits o the denim-on-denim ensemble.Fashion-orward celebrities, ollowed by youngwomen today, such as the Kardashians, MileyCyrus, and Olivia Palermo have been spottednumerous amounts o times in 2014, wearingtheir versions o the Canadian uxedo. Temost common denim-on-denim trend is the

button-ront denim shirt in a much lighterblue, most likely made rom the chambrayabric and worn tucked in or just at the ront,paired with a darker wash pair o skinny jeans. Tis orecoming A/W 15/16, however,will be about trying to pair a denim top witha bottom that is looser in fit, making theCanadian uxedo appear more masculine andtrying to get the wash identical throughout.Te creativity o the denim-on-denim

ensemble varies rom each individual, bymixing and matching different washes, stylesand silhouettes, to keeping the same tonethroughout the outfit. People are becomingless araid to experiment with the endless variations o the Canadian uxedo and

experiment with patchwork, embellishmentsand deconstructed looks or added interest..“Fashion blogger and ounder o Want HerWardrobe, Lydia Jones, said: ‘A ew shortyears ago, wearing double denim was themost uncool thing ever but ashion bloggersand street stylists changed that and it seems

the big ashion houses and even thehigh street are slowly catching

on. “(London, B. 2014)Te reason or the

Canadian uxedoreinvention has beenas a result o denimmaking a ashionablereturn on thecatwalks, although

it has never been outo style, the thought

put into making denimensembles more unique

rom top to bottom and hasbeen more encouraged by ashion

innovators. “Although denim-on-denimstyling is nothing new, the ashion capitalswere alive with modern interpretationso the classic look” (WGSN, 2013).Te amous 2001 incident, when BritneySpears and Justin imberlake came out in“…matchy-matchy double denim look mayhave gone down as one o the biggest ashionaux pas in history but it seems that the style

shocker is coming back…” (London, B, 2014).It is as though they were envisioning theuture or denim because the once-rownedupon outfit and current micro trend will beevolving into a macro trend by A/W 15/16and expected contemporary versions will beavailable in stores as early as September 2015.

Canadian

uxedo


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07 Trends

Fig 6.1 - Painted Denim , Jacob, J, 2014 Fig 6.2 - Demin Editorial: Glamour , Jacob,J, 2014

Fig 6.3 - Introducing MADE GOLD, Goldschmeid,M, 2014

Key Trends

Tree key trends that have been identified or the comingseasons include Boy Meets Girl, a ocus on the closinggender gap and silhouettes, whilst also looking backon previous vintage styles such as double denim andTe ‘Mom’ jean. We then move onto Rebel Jean, which

demonstrates the rebelious nature o Generation Y withits customisation o denim, reflecting the consumer’sindividual personalities. Movement then ocuses onboth the physical movement o denim and the changein direction structure and fibers are taking. It ocuseson two very different extremes o raw denim and Lycraenhanced, both o which execute their own unique flare.


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Boy meets girl

Relaxed, boyriend-inspired fits are continuously being reinvented orgirls within mom jeans, boyriend jeans and denim shirts. Street styleand catwalks continue to develop innovative looks or the classic pieces

by customising and pairing them equally looser or slimmer pieces,depending on how effortlessly chic they wish their look to be.


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06 Boy meets girl

Te “Mom Jean”

In the past, the straight leg andthe skinny leg have been the toptier o denim ashion but recently

there has been a new jean added tothe mix: Te Mom Jean. Te MomJean, as seen in figure 6.5, typicallyis high-waisted, baggy, and slightlydistressed in wash. Although denimdesigners are quickly picking upthis trend, consumers are turning to vintage stores and their mothers closetsto grasp this look, hence where the

name “Mom Jeans” is derived rom.

Te Levi Strauss 501 and 505 are themost sought aer. Tese denim designswere last popular in the 1990’s but withthe recent Mom Jean phenomenon, vintage stores cannot hold onto a pair.Retail outlets such as opShop, RiverIsland, Urban Outfitters, and Zara havealready started to market the MomJean and Designers such as Alexander

Wang, Rachel Comey, DKNY, TommyHilfiger, and 3.1 Phillip Lim allshowed mom jeans on the New YorkWomens Spring/Summer runways.Celebrities such as Camille Rowe,Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea, LauraLove, Barbara Martelo, Miley Cyrus,Katie Holmes, Te Kardashians, andKeira Knightly have all been spottedwearing the new denim craze. StylistsVanessa raina Snow, who admitsto recently wearing her mother’s old501’s, says “Each [vintage] pair has astory because someone beore you hasworn them in a certain way or tailoredthem in a certain way. I mean, theyreally are mom jeans” (Holt, E. 2014 ).Te mom jean as o now is a microtrend and will be advancing toa marco trend in the upcoming


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06 Boy meets girl

6- OPSHOP UNIQUE – LONDON – SPRING / SUM-2014 FASHION SHOW.Admin. 2013.


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F/W season. Tese designs will be availableto the retailer and online in June/July o 2015.

Te “Boyriend Jean”

Around the year 2009, women were seen wearingmore slouchy, baggy, and “blockish” styles. Tisdenim trend has been designed to hang off the waisto the wearer make their ankles look tiny (when hemrolled). Since this trend has been around or manyyears, almost every designer has taken ull advantageand made a pair o their own or their consumers.

Although boyriend jeans havebeen around or some time now,Designers are still adding the fitto their collections. During the2014 Milan Runway, Designerssuch as Emporio Armani,Fendi, and Gucci were all seenstill parading the boyriend

look up and down the catwalk.Te boyriend jeans are amacro trend and is predictedto stay a macro trend or theupcoming F/W season. Tesedesigns are already sold in storesand online. New styles will beseen in early june/july 2015.

Te “Canadian uxedo” alsoknown as denim on denim, was made amous by

Bing Crosby in 1951. During this time denim waswore by the “Bad Boys” and was never seen as aashion trend. Since then, designers have been knownto sport this look on and off the runways. BernhardWillhelm, om Ford, Christopher Lemaire, BottegaVeneta, Chloé, and Gucci have all been known to

add the Canadian uxedo onto their collections.

Te classic denim shirt is currently being updated withdifferent shapes and hemlines, especially or a youngwoman, who appreciates details that add edge andattitude. “High-low hemlines create modern orm”(WGSN, 2014). Tis is apparent in spring/summer2015 catwalks with Roberto Cavalli and MarquesAlmedia’s denim shirts. Te men-inspired shirt isbecoming an exceptionally oversized, boyriend-fit,while still maintaining eminine flare. Students arewearing denim shirts opened over tops or dresses,

buttoned-up over skirts orpants, and customized. Youngproessional women starting theircareers, are seen wearing denimshirts under sweaters, tucked intopants, but still slightly oversized.

Chambray is one o the mostcommon abrics used to construct

denim shirts today. “Chambrayuses a white we and indigowarp to create a abric that lookssimilar to denim, yet is muchlighter.” (Rawr Denim, N.D)).Te once-dull style, reservedor “blue-collar” men is nowbeing altered and customized bydesigners such as MiH Jeans, JeanPaul Gaultier, and many more.

Upcoming innovative versions o the revolutionary

denim shirt will be expected again by late July/August2015, online and in-store, just in time or Autumn.

06 Boy meets girl

Boy

meets girl


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Rebel JeanCustomisation o decorative treatments and elements o demininclude needlework and print, raw edge, ripped and patched.Upcoming trends are picked up on streets and designers label

ready-to-wear collections.

07 Rebel jean


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07 Rebel jeanFig 7.1 Street style patchwork, Jacob.J 2015.


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07 Rebel jean

Part one Intricate: Needlework and Print

Fully-embellished with playul surace decoration, boldly colourul graphic patches, are intensivelylayered and placed. Te eye-popping placements ampliy a more quirky, youthul edge and rule-breakingattitude. Denim pieces embellished with checked abric, leather and different washes o denim to createcolour blocking to create denim with personality, the patch-and-repair and abric combinations enhancethe uniqueness o the garment. Although the survey undertaken doesn’t support consumers customisingclothes themselves with 85% o consumers not customising this doesn’t necessarily mean they don’twant them already customised. Tis suggests the majority o consumers want the ease o shop boughtcustomisation. Tough some brands such as Levi already stock customisation/fix it kits, allowing theconsumer to have longer lasting and personalised denim, to appeal to both the intricate and destroyed trend.

Destroyed vs

Intricate

Fig 7.2. Street style women wearing raw edge denim shirt andjacket. Anon, 2014.

Fig 7.3. Painted denim back pocket on jean. Anon, n.d.


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Part two destroyed: Raw Edge, Ripped and Patched

Te destroyed jean is a macro trend which is evolving rom the ripped jean, which is currently a trendthats ading out o the mainstream stage. Te damaged jean consists o raw edged jean giving whitewoven cotton within the denim a chance to contrast with the vivid indigo jeans giving it a rock-n-rollcareree eel. Tis coincists with the consumer demographic o a careree liestyle and rebellious edge.

Patched jeans are the trend consequence or the ripped jean, with an ethical way to give your jeans a resh new lookby simply sewing a patch (or providing sewing patch kits) thus giving your jeans a second lie, as its importantto the consumer to be on trend. Te worn look on these jeans are vital with its mismatched wash patches.

Fig 7.4 Sonia Rykiel’s Prefall2015 collection, Anon, 2015.

Fig 7.5 Street style doing canadian tuxedoand patched/ripped denim. on., n.d.

Fig 7.6. India Rose bloggerwear raw edge denim tshirt. Anon, n.d.

07 Rebel jean


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08 Movement

MovementMovement combines both the change in the direction o denim along

with the physical dimensions o the abric. In this issue we ocus on therising demand or both raw denim and denim that moves with your

body, or opposite ends o the spectrum.


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Fig 8.1 - Invista Lycra, Denimology, 2014


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08 Movement

Te Rise o Raw Denim

With the innovative revolution that isthe rise o Raw denim jeans it is likelythis new trend trickled down romlarger brands will take the stores bystorm and will be a chosen attire thisseason. Ironically placing raw denim

in the “movement” trend that has beenidentified, they are controversiallyknown to be the thickest and toughesto jeans, once used to the heiness othis thick material the wearer will realisethey are the comfiest and worthwhilepurchase they will have ever made.


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08 Movement

Te Rise o Raw Denim Part 1:

Starting small and simple in skinny is the recommendation in a first timepurchasing or Raw denim. As generally you will find the Light weight Rawdenim in slimmer skinnier jeans. Tey are much more comortable and the

easiest o the three main categories to wear and will not require as much wearingtime as a heavier abric to attain a pleasant and pleasurable level o comort.Is mid-weight the right fit or your target customer? Te most common o theraw denims in the market today not only will the “mid” ade better, last longer,

it will be warmer in the colder months. Even though the mid weight will takelonger to break and become flexible it is definitely worth the weight and wait.

Raw Denim F i g 8 . 3 - D S q u a r e d . - L e v v e r t o n , A . T r o t m a n , S . ( 2 0 1 4 ) .

F i g 8 .4 - G-

S t a r R a w d e ni m on t h e c a t w a l k G e l l e r ,L . ( 2 0 1 4 ) .

F i g 8 . 5 - S i b l i n g L e v v e r t o n , A . T r o t m

a n , S . ( 2 0 1 4 ) .

F i g 8 . 6 -Mi l a nL e v v e r t on ,A .T r o t m a n , S . ( 2 0 1 4 ) .


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08 Movement

And now to the definitive finalpiece, the monster o the rawdenim market otherwise knownas the heavyweight. Reachingup to 32oz it would take realcommitment, time and effort tomake these a comort to wearnevertheless the reward o would

be worth the while. It ultimatelycomes down to the thickness othe abric to determine the resulto the ade, ougher the abricthe better the ade o raw denim.According to the denim huntersblog brands such as Naked andamous, nudie jeans and Indigoeraalready include raw denim in there jeans collection. Te decision togo with which weight is downto what suits your consumer,the heavier the weight the betterthe overall result and ade.

Te Rise of Raw

Denim

F i g 8 . 6 - . A l e x B o t t e n b u r g . L e v v e r t o n , A . T r o t m a n , S . ( 2 0 1

4 )

F i g 8 . 7

- M i n

u .

L e v v e r t o

n ,

A . T r o

t m a

n , S .

( 2 0 1

4 ) .


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Te Innovation o LYCRA Part 2:

In the opposite direction, we see materials entering the market that will revolutionise denimwear. Incollaboration with LYCRA, INVISA have have created a denim abric which not only moves with the wearersbody easier than any other, but also keeps its retention and shape aer multiple wears unlike some abrics.

oday’s consumer wants ashion and style whilst also having comort and durability. Te lastest denim abricis made with LYCRA 400, a fiber which can be ‘knit or woven in its bare state into garment’ (Argwal, S). Tetypical LYCRA elastane content o around 2-4%, whereas the typical LYCRA 400 fiber content can be around10-25%. Tis is due to the act that LYCRA 400 actually provides less stretch and recovery than LYCRA elastane.Continuing with the theme o comort, INVISA’s XFI Lycra abric which was introduced in 2006 reappearedat Premium Denim runway shows in 2013 and is moving its way into the market. Te material provides 360°comort and fit, allowing reedom and movement to all shapes and sizes whilst also having 90 percent retention,which is what prevents the jeans rom sagging and losing shape. Te recent campaign o LYCRA MOVES YOUshows the true potential o this abric, the ability to dance and flex ones body whilst the denim moves with it.

aking influences rom denim brand DL1961, or whom XFI LYCRA is a avourite,the material can be created into ‘various colour, weights, washes and textures’(INVISA) making it a versatile and desirable abric or the coming seasons.

08 Movement

Invista

F i g 8 . 1 1 - X F I T L Y C R A i n l i g h t w a s

h , I N V I S T A , 2 0 1 4

F i g 8 . 9 -X F I T L Y C R A i n i n d i g o w a s h ,I N VI S T A ,2 0 1 4

Fig 8.10 - Lycra XFit , Lycra, 2014

Fig 8.12 - Levis Revel , Huffington Post, 2013


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09 The small things

With the denim industry booming, Designersare trying to find a way to spruce up theircreations. Denim designers have been ocusingon hardware, switching, dyed we yarns, andnew and innovative washes to help set theirbrand apart rom the rest. Te 2014 NYC Denim

Market Week that took place at the end o Januaryshowed potential customers what their brand hasbeen able to achieve through their denim details.

Hardwear

Although denim hardware does not drasticallychange the overall appeal o the garment,Designers have chosen to ocus onbuttons, rivets, and leather patches

to allow or more differentiation.

Te most recent buttontrend that has beenspotted is the vintagedonut button. In recentyears, recycled denimand vintage denim hasbecome more and moreo a demand amongconsumers. By adding

the vintage donut button,companies have helped givetheir customers an overall vintage denim look. DenimBrand 3sixteen has ocused onupdating their ront zip button. Te brandopted or a traditional vintage donut button. Fig9.2 shows their new hardware on their 11oz denim.

Te up and coming rivet trends is unpinched orhidden rivets. Unpinched rivets happen when thetop rivet is not set and denim is exposed whereashidden rivets happen when the rivet is pinched insidethe denim article. By hiding the rivets, this gives thearticle a smoother look while keeping the denim romtearing or pulling. As seen in Fig 9.3, 3sixteen hasunpinched rivets, again done on their 11oz denim.

Leather patches have been more visible on denimpants. Although in the past the patch was used todisplay the brands logo, the leather patch has now

been made to help the overall look o the denim andsome brands just leave the patch blank to allow darker

washes to run over lighter leather to orm a tie-dyeeffect. Naked and Famous, 3sixteen, Le Field, BigJohn, Eat Dust, and Shockoe denim have all beenshowing large leather patches with/without the brandslogo on the back right side o their merchandise. Fig9.1 shows these brands and their leather patches.

Although the denim industry is ocusing onhardware as one o the ways to spruce up theirdesigns, could hardware also be a dying sector?Jeggings and active denim are becoming key trendsand these products do not necessarily use hardwareto help produce the product. Active denim is a

lighter oz denim and will not necessarily needheavy zips and rivets and jeggings do not

require this kind o hardware either.

Stitching

Contrast stitching trendsare becoming moreapparent throughoutthe denim industry ondarker washes. Golds,yellows, and even lightgrey stitching are beingused to add character

to the denim. Brands likeShockoe denim, NaturelSelection, Baldwin, Eat

Dust, 3sixteen, and JapanBlue and Momotaro have all

shown contrast stitching while atthe 2014 NYC Denim Market Week. Fig

9.4 shows these brands and their merchandise.

Coloured We Yarn

Denim designers have been seen recently with awe yarn preerence. A dyed we yarn allows orashionably rolling your denim cuffs. Japan Blueand Momotaro has created a grey we yarn witha mid-tone wash whereas Naked and Famous hascreated a multi-coloured we yarn with a darkwash to add some vibrancy to their design. Fig 9.5shows these we yarns as shown at market week.New and Innovated Wash Japan Blue andMomotaro has used green tea to help with thetints o their denim. Fig 9.6 shows a denimshirt that has been dyed with green tea to allowa small green tint to their mid-tone wash.

Denim

details


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09 The small things

Fig 9.1 - NYC Market Week Denim (AUUMN/WINER 2014)

F i g 9 .2 - NY CM a

r k e t W e e k D e ni m

( 3 s i x t e e nA UT UM N / WI NT E

R 2 0 1 4 )



Fig 9.3 - NYC MarketWeek Denim(3sixteen AUUMN/WINER 2014)

F i g 9 . 6

- NY CM a r k e t W e e k D e ni m ( J a p a nB l u e

a n d M om o t a r oA UT UM N / WI NT E R 2 0 1 4 )


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I

n an exclusive eye opening interviewwith the Managing director and designero Monkey Genes we had an extensive

insight into thesheer expertise andt h o u g h t u l n e s splaced intoeverything he doeswithin the company.Phil Wildbore themanaging directorand designer o Monkee Genes, is a selconessed jean guru and enthusiast and hasbeen or the last 30 years, had a lot to say in theloss o crasmanship within jeans and stopping

slave labour within the manuacturing industry.

Why did you call it Monkee Genes? “Man evolved rom monkeys and Iwanted to present the evolution o jeans.”

What’s your favourite pair of jeans? “Right now, Monkee jeans, Ican design the jeans or mysel.When I was younger 501 Levi’s, I usedthem to garden with and aer they had

a worn look I used to wear them out.”

Who would you say is target consumer? “I don’t design with someone in mind, as

a designer I design or aesthetics and don’thave the aim to a specific customer. Someare designed and never make it to sell. Forexample the Soul rain range, wide fit jeans that comes off the peak o the bum,these jeans need to wait or the perecttime to release them which I eel is Spring.”

What is your best selling women’s jean? “Skinny and silhouette. Te silhouette fit isslimmer in leg but extra stretch and they’rehigh rise – darker washes sell best. Jeggings arekilling them, not correct fitting or women.”

What is the peanut jean? “Peanut jeans were influenced by the salesteam as organic jeans were down 25% so noneorganic jeans was the solution. We are in theprocess o getting rid o the peanut jean.”

So what is your Stop taking the pennies about? “Well what first inspired me to create aoudnation and campaign about stopping slavelabour within garment manuacturing, was the2013 Rana plaza disater, whereby 1,100 workersdied. Tis accident could’ve been prevented iretailers who support slave labour ensuredthat the manuactures provided a good wageand sae working enrivonment it could’veall been prevented. By doing this campaign Ihope to spread awareness to consumers and

prevent such a disaster happening again. oadvertise the campaign were having celebritiessuch as Eric Clapton and his wie and a Rollingstones wie is supporting us too, just to nameew. I have trustees or the campaign who arethe Superdry owner and Gov bank o englandswie who are also involved. o advertise the

campaign we are having a mug manuactured inStaffordshire mills, made rom fine bone china

“Te best goddamn jean you will ever

have.”

Fig 10 Phil Wildbore holding Stop taking the P mug. Wright Mclean, O. 2015.

Fig 10.1 Stop taking the P logo. Monkey Genes, 2015.


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or £15 and all proceeding go to the campaign.”

Where would you say you lie within the denimindustry and who are your competitors? “Well we are up against Edwins and Dieseland were selling in Globus Switzerland,Selridges, Buying corp in Holland andwere having meetings with House oFraser with talk o supplying to theirstores. So I’d say were premium jeans.”

What are your up and coming jeans that youbelieve has the most potential? “Aer discovering the revolutionary encelabric that is made rom ecucalptus fibres thatis also grown sustainably and has amazingdurability and recovery (which makes yourbum still look good aer washes and uses).We are currently making our womens jeanswith 60% cotton with a encel mix, thepockets are specially made to give the womanclean cut hips. I also designed adequately sizedpockets and made them high waisted to makewomen in proportion. o give the product

that luxurious element the jeans are selvedge,which is how all jeans used to be made inthe beginning, and there priced at £120-145.Selvedge jeans are the type o jeans you save

up or and become your avourite. Tey arethe best goddamn jean you will ever have.Another are the jeans which are weaved withblack yarn to esure density o colour. Tereare zips on either pocket and at the ankles, Ichose these zips because theyre not bling butthey are hard but also not chunky and manly.

And the final are the damaged/ripped jeansalthough the rips are sealed with satineto provide comort and durability o thehole not being able to get any bigger. Teyare also hand ripped to ensure quality.”

Are you planning on manufacturing to North America? “Canada is complicated you need licenses andthe economics don’t work,, there is a huge

import tax which means I’d have to increase thewholesale price. Although I am trying and havetwo people lined up to help me with Canada.”

Fig 10.2 encel womens jean with selvedge. Wright Mclean, O. 2015

Fig 10.3 Details on the inside o the jeans. Wright Mclean, O. 2015.


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What’s your unique selling point? “Well the act the whole company is builtaround well thought out design, care or thefinal product and ensuring we don;t supportslave labour. Every single pair o jeans has theactory workers name imprinted on the carelabel and ‘respect or individual’ and ‘No slave

labour, no child labour, no blood, no sweat,no tears’ imprinted on the inside o the jean.

o make sure my jeans are perect I ask myPR Natasha and all my employees try the jeans on and give me their honest opinion.Te best part o that is giving my internsa pair o jeans at the end o their stay andsomething changes in their ace when they putthem on, like they have a stride in their step.”

Monkee Genes campaign or stop taking theP can be seen on https://www.monkeegenes.com/auxpage_stop-taking-the-p where youcan show your support and join their mailinglist and buying a mug in the oreseeable uture.

Wildbore. P., 2015. Phil Wildbore,Managing director and designer o MonkeeGenes: Interview with Wright Mclean.O

, Roberts.Z , Mayo.D, et al. Nottinghamrent University, 14th January 2015.

F i g 1 0 . 4

R a n a P l a z a d i s a s t e r p o s t e r , M o n k e y G e n e s , 2 0 1 5 .

Fig 10.5. eam kilt with Phil Wildbore. Wright Mclean, O. 2015.


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With Monkee Genes “Stop taking the P”campaign inspiring this issue o KIL magazinewe thought we should identiy other brands in various market sectors that have also took on theresponsibility o a more ethical ethos. Here is our

top 3 ethical denim campaigns over the past ewyears that are still striving to make a differencetoday.

1. Levi- 8 bottle 1 Jean

First appearing to the market in February o2013 Levis 8 bottle 1 jeans campaign is still justas ascinating and innovative in today’s culture.ransorming an everyday piece o trash into a

luxury high end piece o denim attire Levi statesthey use a minimum o 20% post-consumerrecycled content, rom an average o 8 plastic

bottles.

“During the spring o 2013, we’ll repurpose over3.5 million recycled pet plastic bottles…and this

is just the beginning. “

2. G- Star-Raw or the ocean

An eccentric way to inspire the youngergeneration o today is the G- star’s Raw or theOcean campaign curated by artist and music

inspiration Pharrel Willams. A simple yet cleverway to help marine lie is this this brands uniquestory o helping the environm

kilt final final (1)

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