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TRANSCRIPT
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national Jo
Edition: 1: 201
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arma & Pant/V
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[ISSN 0975
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ic and
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Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11
7
makes woolen Khadi apparel more insulative
as compared to mill-made woolen apparels.
Although having high insulative property,
Khadi made up of Indian wool fiber has some
drawbacks too. It is bulky, heavy in weight
and harsh to the skin so it makes the wearer
uncomfortable. Secondly, shrinkage is also a
drawback in woolen Khadi. Due to these
demerits Khadi fabrics made of Indian wool
are not in demand as much as they should be.
To meet the requirement of apparels, fine
quality Merino wool is imported from
Australia and New Zealand and isused in
khadi sector. This increases cost of the
product (Vision, 2050). Bharat Merino wool
is finer, softer and longer compared to other
varieties of wool produced in India
(Ammayappan, 2007). A need was felt by
investigator to explore the possibility of
utilization of Bharat Merino wool in blends
with synthetic fiber in khadi sector for
apparels.
An attempt was made to blend acrylic fiber
with Indian wool, as it possesses wool like
characteristics having thermal insulative
property (Miraftab, 2000). It was expected
that addition of acrylic fiber will not affect
warmth property of wool and will also
decrease cost of the product. Wool/acrylic
apparels may fulfill the need for durable,
comfortable, easily dyeable, shrink resistant,
cost effective woolens. An endeavor was
made to develop apparels for cool climate
and to evaluate their acceptability.
Materials and Methods
Bharat merino wool and acrylic fibre have
been used for the study. Bharat merino wool
was purchased from CSWRI, Avikanagar,
Rajasthan. Acrylic in cut staple form was
purchased from Ludhiana, Punjab.
Preparation of samples
Khadi spinning system was used to prepare
blended as well as pure yarns. Blending was
done in Mahadev woolen mills, Sunder
Nagar, Himachal Pradesh. Bharat merino
wool was blended with acrylic fiber in four
ratios, viz. 20A:80BM, 33A:67BM,
52A:48BM, 67A:33BM. 100% Bharat
Merino yarn was also prepared for base
reference. Pure acrylic yarn could not be
prepared due to hand spinning system used.
Hand spinning on Amber Charkha was done
to prepare two ply yarns. Weaving of fabric
samples of 80 cm width in twill weave was
done on handloom at Khadi Aashram,
Chandvaji, Jaipur. Various properties of fiber,
yarn and fabrics were determined to find out
most suitable ratio for the end use product
development.
Product development
For product development, BM80: A20 was
selected as it proved to be most suitable ratio
in terms of appearance, texture, softness and
mechanical properties. Six prototypes for
winter wear; four jackets and two shawls
were developed. The age group was selected
as adult ladies and gents and size was chosen
as medium. Plate 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 show the
apparels developed from Bharat
Merino/acrylic blend fabric.
Cost calculation
Approximate cost of yarn and fabric
manufacturing including blending, carding,
hand-spinning, handloom weaving was
calculated. Calculation was done with the
help of Owner/Manager, Mahadev woolen
mills, Sunder Nagar, Himachal Pradesh and
Khadi Ashram, Chandvaji, Jaipur.
Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11
8
Acceptability evaluation of developed
products
Overall acceptability of developed products
was assessed in terms of aesthetic appeal,
cost, acceptability to wear, fashion-rightness.
Hundred respondents were chosen from
Department of Home Science and Design
Institute, Banasthali Vidyapith. These
included P.G. students and faculty members.
Prototypes were draped on dummy for proper
and easy evaluation by respondents. Five
point rating scale was used for visual
assessment as given below. Rank 5 is
considered as the highest and 1 as lowest
score. Data was converted into percentage for
each rating so that degree of preference
might be obtained.
Rating scale for aesthetic appeal and fashion rightness 5 4 3 2 1
Excellent Good Average Below
average Poor
Rating scale for acceptability to wear and cost
5 4 3 2 1
Highly
acceptable
Moderately
acceptable
Somewhat
Acceptable
Least
acceptable
Not
acceptable
Result and Discussion
Cost of 80:20 BM/Acrylic blended Khadi
fabric
Fibre Price Rs/kg
Bharat merino 250/-
Acrylic 140/-
Table 1: Raw material cost
Cost of BM80: A20 fabrics was calculated
and compared with pure Bharat Merino
fabric and pure Australian Merino fabric.
Cost was calculated by adding raw material
cost + yarn manufacturing cost + weaving
charges. It is given in Table 1 and 2.
Table 1 and Table 2 show that BM80: A20
yarn and fabric were found more economical
as compared to BM100 and pure Australian
Merino yarn and fabrics.
Fiber ratio
Cost of yarn/kg
Raw material cost+
labour cost
Cost of fabric per mt
Yarn cost+ labour cost
(weaving charges)
BM80: A20 Rs532 Rs137/mt
BM100 Rs570 Rs142/mt
AM100 Rs1525 Rs261/mt
Table 2: Comparison of cost of yarn and fabric
among BM80:A20, 100% Bharat
merino (BM), 100% Australian merino
(AM)
Result of acceptability evaluation of
developed Products
Acceptability is operationalized as mental
readiness to adopt developed prototypes of
garments. Liking or disliking for any product
is a subjective characteristic and its
evaluation is affected by personal preferences
and psychological experience. However,
assessment of acceptability is important in
context of mass production of the product.
BM80:A20 fabric was selected to construct
prototypes. Two prototypes of shawls and
four prototypes of jackets were developed.
Those were then shown to the respondents
and evaluated in terms of aesthetic appeal,
fabric cost, willingness to purchase and
fashion-rightness. Five point rating scale was
used for rating. Data was converted into
percentage form for each rating so that
degree of preference might be obtained.
Results are presented in Figure 1, 2, 3 and 4.
Figure
ready t
respons
respons
Fig. 2:
Figure
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Fig. 3: R
% R
esp
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20
40
60
80
100
% R
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esp
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Fig. 1: Wear
1 shows th
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Rating of proto
2 shows th
xcellent rat
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Rating of protot
68
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Exellent Go
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Sha
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hat 84 % re
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32
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Acceptance
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Aesthetic ap
12 0
Fashion ri
arma & Pant/V
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VIII: Special E
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32 %
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Edition: 1: 201
Figure 3 sho
given excel
while 12 %
ating. Thus
found fashi
espondents.
Fig. 4: Acc
Figure 4 sho
been found
esponses an
% response
espondents
prototypes o
Conclusion
t can be co
of BM80: A
00% Bhara
Merino wo
assessment
esponses ar
of cost of fab
o wear and
The present
finer quality
make woole
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
% R
esp
onse
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17/6 - 11
ows that 88
llent rating
% responde
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ionable and
.
ceptance for the
ows that co
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nd moderat
es. It can
are willi
on the basis
oncluded th
A20 blended
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Acce
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be said th
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hat manufac
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and 100%
fabrics. In
ototypes,
ent rating an
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carried ou
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2
0
eptability o
9
ndents have
on-rightness
given good
totypes are
by 100 %
ped fabric
roducts has
by 68 %
able by 32
hat 100 %
rchase the
cturing cost
lower than
Australian
n terms of
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nd in terms
willingness
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0 0
of cost
d
t
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n
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m
Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11
10
acrylic fiber was blended with wool fiber.
The outcome of the study suggests that
wool/acrylic blend apparels can be developed
in khadi sector for winter wear. 20-30 %
Acrylic fiber can be used to impart property
benefit to blend.
Sharma & Pant/VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/6 - 11
11
References
Miraftab, M. (2000): Technical fibers. In A R
Horrocks and S. C Anand (Eds).
Handbok of technical textile (pp. 28),
England: Woodhead publishing
limited.
Vision 2050 (2015): Vision 2050 document.
Central Wool and Sheep Research
Institute, Avikanagar, Indian council
of Agricultural Research
Ammayappan, L. (2007): Study on
improvement in aesthetic properties
of woolen products by different
chemical finishes (doctoral thesis).
Anna University, India.