jewellery focus january 2012

January 2012 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

Spring Fair preview issue:discover the delights that await you at this year's event

The benefits of utilising emerging routes to market, such as internet and mobile technology

Adding sparkle with the latest eye-catching crystal and zirconia jewellery designs

FOCUS

Editor’s letter 8

Roundup 10The latest news from the industry

Janet Fitch 16Beginning the New Year with a celebration of fresh ideas, Janet focuses on the use of alternative materials and design concepts by jewellery graduates, designer-makers and brands

Keith Fisher 20An unexpected conversation inspires Keith to look into the history and achievements of a watch industry giant whose success is built on innovation and affordability

Ones to watch 22Trends in timepieces

Syreeta Tranfield 48This month, Syreeta asks Michelle Shamash of Mishca Jewels for some advice on successfully launching a new brand into the jewellery market How do they do that? 50Ben Halmshaw and Tatiana Abbey of the Birmingham Assay Office Laboratory discuss the organic tests required to ensure that jewellery articles do not represent a health risk to the consumer

Designer of the month 56Melanie Earl – the designer behind Rubie Rae jewellery – tells Louise Hoffman about the experience, values and design skills that form the basis of her brand

Taking stock 60New offerings from the industry

Selling 62In the first of a new series of articles aiming to help you grow your jewellery store in terms of sales and profit, Brad Huisken considers the importance of relationship-building

Industry data 64

Voice on the highstreet 74Simon Millership of Nova Silver, Norwich

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FEATURES

JewelleryFOCUS

January 2012

Spring Fair 2012 24This year’s Spring Fair is just around the corner, and you can find details on the event highlights and the products and services that will be on show in this special preview

The new wave 39With the growth of the internet and mobile technology across the retail sector, Hannah Scott looks at the emerging routes to market in the jewellery industry

Paper trail 42Though the internet has replaced paper catalogues for many businesses, there is still a strong argument for utilising all available methods of marketing, says Ian Simpson of Catalogues 4 Business

A sparkling selection 46The latest in eye-catching crystal and zirconia jewellery design

Focus on men’s jewellery 54Naida Ally examines trends in men’s jewellery design, and some of the collections that are currently available to stock

Fighting back 58Barry Harper, a retired Nottinghamshire Police chief inspector, provides some useful tips for protecting your shop against retail crime

REGULARS

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REGULARS

EDITOR’S LETTER8

Editor’s letterW

elcome to 2012, and what better way to celebrate the start of a new year than by discovering the fashion trends that are set to inspire consumers over the next

12 months, and the jewellery collections that will be helping them to achieve the look.

Yes – it’s Spring Fair time again, and our January issue as usual carries a preview of the show highlights, by way of an interview with organiser Julie Driscoll, and extensive coverage of the products and services that will be showcased at the event.

With the flourishing festive season now over, the last sale items making their way off the shelves, and an end to the traditionally depressing post-Christmas period in sight, it’s time to decide which attractions will be pulling the punters into your shop during the restorative months of spring and summer. Within the pages of Jewellery Focus this month you will find something for everyone – for example, men’s leather and stainless steel bracelets; quirky anodised aluminium designs; children’s watches; new crystal Shamballa bracelet colourways; semi-precious stones set in silver and gold; and wedding and engagement rings to commemorate a 2012 union. And the best part? Most of the pieces will be available to view first hand at the Jewellery Show at Birmingham’s Spring Fair next month (5 to 9 February).

Keeping things new and interesting is of course key to maintaining a steady flow of customers, as well as securing repeat custom, and immersing yourself in the latest designs and trends at trade events is always a great way to inspire yourself and soak up the excitement of a new season.

I hope you enjoy the magazine and the month ahead.

EditorLouise [email protected]

Editorial AssistantNaida [email protected]

Production AssistantLewis [email protected]

Group Advertisement ManagerKelly [email protected]

Senior Sales ExecutiveDuncan [email protected]

AccountsMaureen [email protected]

Customer Services01206 767 [email protected]

Contributing writers:Barry Harper • Brad Huisken Ben Halmshaw • Hannah Scott Ian Simpson • Janet Fitch Keith Fisher • Syreeta Tranfield Tatiana Abbey

DesignArthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd01394 410 [email protected]

In support of:

TRESOR PARIS This month, Tresor Paris debuts its new 2012 campaign – Dream. The campaign sees the brand opt for a softer, contemporary feel, showcasing an array of jewellery collections including the new Neptune and Libra ranges. “Having had great success in 2011, Dream will support the brand’s current expansion, positioning Tresor Paris at the height of the jewellery trade for 2012,” it says. The brand boasts endorsees from across the worlds of film, music and sport, including JLS, Alexandra Burke and Jessie J. “It is the brand’s high profile and status that has pioneered the demand for crystal and natural stone jewellery in the UK. And with new collections being launched in the New Year, this affirms that the Tresor Paris brand is not just for Christmas, but also for life!”Information: 0203 355 4030 or www.tresorparis.com





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This month’s cover features

Jewellery Focus ISSN 2046-7265is published monthly by:

Mulberry Publications Ltd,Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DATel: 01206 767 797Fax: 01206 767 532www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

JewelleryFOCUS

ROUNDUP10

Chanel court caseA case brought by luxury brand Chanel has resulted in Google, Yahoo, Twitter, Facebook and others being ordered to remove domain names connected to websites that sell counterfeit goods. Chanel identified 600 sites selling counterfeit items, which are to be assigned to US firm GoDaddy to ensure they cannot be accessed. Questions have been raised, however, regarding the extent of jurisdiction the court would have over domains that had been registered outside of the United States. Earlier this year the Court of Justice of the European Union ruled that eBay and other sites “should play a more active role in stopping their sellers from trading in counterfeit L’Oreal goods.” BBC news reported: “Websites such as eBay might be liable for trademark infringements if they played an ‘active role’ in promoting fake goods.”

VAT changes for businessesHM Revenue & Customs (HMRC) has issued an alert to VAT-registered businesses across the UK regarding changes that will come into effect this spring. As of 1 April 2012, all VAT-registered businesses will be required to send their VAT returns online and pay their VAT electronically. Currently, only newly-registered businesses, and those with turnovers of more than £100,000, have to file and pay their VAT online. The new rules will cover VAT returns filed for accounting periods beginning on or after 1 April 2012. For more information, or to register for the HMRC’s VAT Online Service, visit www.online.hmrc.gov.uk or contact 0845 010 8500.

TfL advice to retailers for OlympicsLondon retail businesses have welcomed a release by Transport for London (TfL), detailing ‘hotspot’ transport information and advice for the London 2012 Games. The new information will enable retail businesses to finalise their plans and ensure the capital is ‘open for business’ throughout next summer’s events. Transport Secretary Justine Greening said: “Around £6.5 billion has been invested in upgrading and increasing capacity on our transport networks, delivering an early legacy of transport improvements which will benefit millions of people for generations to come. However, on the busiest days of the Games, with an additional three million journeys in the capital, it is only sensible that businesses plan ahead, particularly those in and around travel ‘hotspots’.”

Beaverbrooks certified by the RJCThe Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that UK retailer Beaverbrooks the Jewellers has achieved certification by “meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification System.” Sharon Thompson, RJC co-ordinator at Beaverbrooks the Jewellers, said: “Our social and ethical principles and responsibilities have always been a cornerstone of our business. These principles were set by our founders over 90 years ago and it is incumbent upon each generation to ensure we hold steadfast to those principles. To have external acknowledgement of ‘how we do things’ in the business is extremely gratifying and gives everyone in the business a huge amount of pride.”

AND bRIEfLy

bRC study highlights economic promise of retail industryThe British Retail Consortium (BRC) has published “comprehensive new evidence” on retailing’s importance to kick-starting growth and job creation. The research, entitled UK Retailing: leading globally, serving locally, “brings together data on all facets of retailing for the first time.”

Produced for the BRC by Oxford Economics and the Oxford Institute of Retail Management, it shows that the retail sector makes “major contributions” to the economy, employment and in “delivering value for customers.” Retailers, it says, make a substantial contribution to the Exchequer, use fewer corporation tax exemptions than other sectors, and pay 28 per cent of all business rates.

Toon Clerckx, Boots finance director and BRC Board member, said: “UK retailing is a great sector making a great contribution to the economy and wider society. Our report focuses on what needs to happen to make sure it stays that way.

“In particular, our role in tackling youth unemployment and delivering training and education is critical to the country. A third of all retail employees are under 25 and we invest in them – spending more per head on training than either the finance sector or manufacturing. I want people to see these facts and say: ‘I can see how much retailers matter. They’re getting kids off the streets and into jobs with a future’.”

Speaking about the importance of retail employment following the recent plans by Vince Cable to “reduce employment red tape” and streamline the tribunal process, BRC director general Stephen Robertson said: “Growth in the jobs market is essential to the recovery of our economy but retail jobs cannot be taken for granted. Our own figures show there were the equivalent of 23,000 fewer full-time jobs in the retail sector this autumn, compared with the same period last year. Removing deterrents to hiring new staff and reducing unnecessary employment costs will help retailers create the jobs the country needs. The Government should take these proposals forward as quickly as possible.”

EC One: best Women’s boutiqueThe London Magazine’s Great Little Shop Awards has named jeweller EC One as the ‘Best Women’s Boutique’, at a ceremony in Burlington Arcade.

The awards celebrated London’s independent shops, which Mayor Boris Johnson described as “essential to put the village back into the city.”

This year EC One has also received awards for Best Boutique Jeweller and Most Inspiring Independent. Owner Jos Skeates said: “When so much of the high street comprises homogenised brands, phone shops and coffee chains, it is great to be recognised for sticking our necks out and trying to offer something different. This award adds the finishing touch to what has been a remarkable year. Things like this give all of us a boost in these difficult trading times.”

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CELEbRITy ENDORSEmENT

Kelly Rowland makes TV appearance wearing SHO LondonKelly Rowland appeared on the Alan Carr Chatty Man show in a pair of SHO London Coin Chandelier earrings and two Coin Boule rings.

The R&B star chose the pieces from the Coin collection, inspired by the ancient Chinese coin given to designer Sarah Ho every birthday by her grandfather, said to bring fortune and success.

The designs are in 18 carat white gold with white and cognac diamonds with pink sapphires or 18 carat yellow gold with blue and yellow sapphires and tsavorites.

UK jewellery industry ‘baffled’ by KP decision, says ethics committeeThe UK jewellery industry “has been left baffled following the recent announcement that Zimbabwe is once again to be included in the Kimberley Process (KP),” according to the ethics committee of the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and British Jewellers’ Association (BJA), which added that “the message from inside the UK trade has been of confusion and disappointment on the lack of effectiveness of the KP to prevent diamonds mined from the troubled Marange diamond fields from entering the supply chain.”

Following a meeting in Kinshasa on the 1 November 2011, the KP agreed to allow the export of rough diamonds from two KP compliant operations in the Marange region. But as the ethics committee points out, since 2009 Marange diamonds have “consistently been refused KP accreditation owing to human rights abuses and alleged non-compliance with KP certification requirements.”

Michael Hoare of the NAG said: “I had sincerely hoped that the Kinshasa meeting would counter retailers’ doubts once and for all so that they could pass on credible assurances to the public about the provenance of their diamonds. I fear that it has in fact generated a lot of heat but not a lot of light and failed to put their doubts to rest.”

BJA chief executive Simon Rainer added: “While Marange diamonds may now be compliant to the KP scheme, they are not compliant with the moral and ethical standards that the majority of the world subscribes to.”

Meanwhile, charity Global Witness announced that it has left the KP, and released the following: “The Kimberley Process’s refusal to evolve and address the clear links between diamonds, violence and tyranny has rendered it increasingly outdated. Despite intensive efforts over many years by a coalition of NGOs, the scheme’s main flaws and loopholes have not been fixed and most of the governments that run the scheme continue to show no interest in reform.”

Founding director of Global Witness Charmian Gooch added: “Nearly nine years after the Kimberley Process was launched, the sad truth is that most consumers still cannot be sure where their diamonds come from, nor whether they are financing armed violence or abusive regimes.”

Meanwhile, the World Diamond Council (WDC) expressed disappointment at Global Witness’s decision, with president Eli Izhakoff stating: “The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme... system is not perfect, and is in need of constant review. However, you cannot contribute to the process if you are no longer engaged.”

Research reveals benefits of online trading for smaller companiesOnline presence is enabling small businesses to out-manoeuvre larger companies, according to new research from Yell and the University of Southampton.

In a series of in-depth, blind focus groups, consumers were asked to compare websites of smaller and larger competitor companies, without knowing which was the bigger enterprise. According to findings, consumers were frequently unable to tell which was bigger, and “consistently picked the smaller firm” when asked to select their preferred provider. In a series of comparisons, more respondents chose the smaller firm as their preferred supplier in 64 per cent of focus groups. The larger player won out in only 21 per cent of experiments.

Richard Hanscott, chief executive of Yell UK, commented: “Our unique research illustrates how digital marketing has torn down the traditional barriers to promotion, allowing small businesses to compete with larger players like never before. No matter what the industry, investing time in an effective digital presence will open your business up to a wider market and help attract new customers.”

The research also evaluated what makes consumers trust potential suppliers online, finding authenticity, simplicity and proximity to be confidence-winning factors.

Dazzling donation for brave young girl Harrogate-based Stoners Jewellers presented a £2,000 diamond to a young girl who was left quadriplegic after falling from a climbing frame a year ago.

The family-run jewellers donated the diamond to a fundraising ball raffle, to raise money for special equipment, therapy and care for 10-year-old Bel Young. Raffle winner Nigel Jowett was so touched by Bel’s story that he donated the diamond to her. He joined Christopher Stoner to present it to Bel in person at Stoners’ boutique store in Harrogate.

Christopher Stoner said: “It’s fantastic that Nigel has given the diamond to Bel. The diamond is named ‘Bel’s diamond’, so it’s fitting that she is now its proud owner. Bel is an inspirational young girl who is extremely courageous and it’s tremendous that we have been able to help boost her quality of life in this fundraising venture.”

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In early to mid-November, markets saw a slight improvement in trading but continue to be cautious as the price of rough diamonds remains uncertain and the demand for polished diamonds stays low. Polished diamond output has decreased as the supply from rough diamond producers has reduced.

Polished markets improved slightly after mid-October, with the Indian market seeing a positive response to the wedding season.

In the approach to Thanksgiving weekend, heavy discounting was expected to counteract the low consumer confidence – the United States reduced 3Q GDP growth, down to two per cent from 2.5 per cent. The Indian rupee also fell, reaching an all-time low of INR52.72 per $1.

Signet 3Q sales saw a rise of 11 per cent to $711 million (£456 million), with a profit increase of 335 per cent to $26 million (£16 million). Early December saw a 16 per cent rise in sales compared to last year, with ‘cyber Monday’ sales increasing by 22 per cent. Jewellery revenue in particular saw an improvement, however reports suggested that fewer pieces were sold than last year. Polished diamond trading retained stability as suppliers held prices firm. Gem Diamonds approved a $280 million (£179 million) Letšeng mine expansion, while Tiffany opened a diamond-cutting factory in Botswana. The Zimbabwe treasury is reported to have received $122 million (£78 million) in diamond revenue in 2011, and is expected to receive $600 million (£384 million) in 2012.

Source: Rapaport TradeWire

DIAmOND mARKET

Images: Monnickendam Diamonds

ARm and RJC join forces to improve artisanal mining practices The Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) and the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) have announced their agreement on a memorandum of understanding (MOU), to work co-operatively on shared objectives.

The ARM and RJC will collaborate to develop projects to improve social, environmental and labour practices, and to ensure the implementation of environmental practices in artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM). They will also work together to increase market awareness and support for raw jewellery materials sourced from well-managed artisanal and small-scale mining operations.

“ARM believes that strengthening its relationship with the RJC is a key step in building [a] strong collaboration with the industry, to jointly embrace the developmental opportunities of ASM. We hope to see more and more ASM communities realise their potential of becoming profitable, socially and environmentally responsible enterprises, that participate in global markets and contribute to local development,” said Lina Villa, acting executive director of ARM. Im

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Industry to define ‘famous diamonds’A private dinner was held in London in November to mark the beginning of a three-day summit in which global authorities in the industry were brought together to spearhead the search to discover undocumented rare diamonds, and ensure they are showcased to an international audience.

Attendees included Rio Tinto’s Tom Albanese; Cartier’s Arnaud Bamberger; Christies’ jewellery specialists David Warren and Raymond Sancroft-Baker; and senior figures from the Gemmological Institute of America and De Beers, among others.

Hosted by Robert Procop, the event marked his recent succession from Lord Balfour as editor-in-chief of Famous Diamonds, the guide to “the world’s most important diamonds and chronicle of the stories behind them.”

Robert Procop commented: “For the first time, we have a team of the world’s leading diamond experts – people who have mined, cut, classified, bought and sold these gemstones – joining me to embark on a quest to identify famous diamonds. I am delighted to say that we already have several exciting new additions, which will be published in the next edition in 2012.”

With over 100 diamonds in the world at 100 carats or more, he stressed that “the criteria for famous diamonds must extend beyond size to focus on the rare qualities and historical provenance of these extraordinary gemstones.”

World Aids Day commemorative bracelet launched by Tresor ParisTresor Paris has announced the release of a special edition bracelet for the Children With Aids Charity (CWAC) to mark World Aids Day.

Speaking of the venture, chief executive of CWAC Zetta Thomelin said: “We are very happy that Tresor Paris is supporting the Children With Aids Charity, and hope that the bracelet will prove a great success.”

Launched during December, the bracelets will be available to buy online and 25 per cent of proceeds will go directly to the charity. In addition to this, a bespoke pavé set crystal bracelet will also be designed by Yasmin Le Bon, which will be auctioned at the charity’s ball in March 2012. The supermodel and jewellery designer, who is also a patron for CWAC, will “source only the finest quality materials for the project.”

CWAC is a national UK charity that offers hardship grants and support to those infected or affected by HIV.

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Charles Green launches new websiteCharles Green has launched its new Jewellery Instore website, which allows retailers to upload their own company logo and set their own mark-up so that they can show Charles Green’s products to their customers as though it were their own website. “Available to use on a desktop computer or perfect for tablet computers, including an iPad, the site will transform the way our retailers sell,” said Pip Beale, design and marketing manager for Charles Green. “Each product is listed with a high resolution image, descriptions and prices in all metals, and delivery times.”

Winsor Bishop hosts Patek Philippe collectionUK independent jeweller Winsor Bishop recently hosted the Patek Philippe 2011 Exhibition Collection at its store on London Street, Norwich. Customers were able to view around 80 classic timepieces, with highlights including the Chronograph Perpetual Calendar and the Aquanaut Travel Time. Patek Philippe also added a feminine touch to its World Time collection, with the introduction of the Ladies World Time, which simultaneously indicates the time in all 24 time zones. To celebrate the arrival of the collection, Windsor Bishop held a black tie dinner for 125 VIP customers, where they had the opportunity to view the collection.

EC One Unsigned 2011Clarice Price Thomas has been announced as the winner of EC One’s graduate jewellery design competition, EC One Unsigned. This year’s competition was judged by Jos Skeates, jewellery designer and founder of EC One, and a number of other industry professionals. Describing what it was that made Clarice’s designs stand out from the competition, Jos explained: “Clarice has produced work that captured the imagination of the judges and we are thrilled that she has been chosen as the winner. Her meticulous attention to detail and innovative way of bringing traditional watch-making skills to jewellery won us over. She could easily translate her work into a viable collection for most boutique jewellers.”

Tissot Brent Cross boutiqueSwiss watchmaker Tissot has announced its first UK retail venture with the opening of a boutique kiosk in Brent Cross. The boutique, which opened in early December, showcases and retails the UK’s widest selection of product. Tissot will be showcasing timepieces that include the Racing Touch watch, which has 11 dynamic functions accessed through the touch-activated screen, and the Seastar 1000 divers’ watch – an automatic watch for diving up to 30 bar and equipped with its own helium valve.

Green target progressRetailers have made “significant progress towards challenging government waste targets,” said the British Retail Consortium (BRC), demonstrating “how seriously they take their environmental responsibilities.” Responding to a progress report issued by government waste body WRAP on the second phase of the Courtauld Commitment, the BRC said the progress endorsed the investment being made by retailers in reducing waste. The commitment consists of targets to reduce food waste and packaging by the end of 2012.

AND bRIEfLyRJC suspends finalisation of Chain of Custody Standard for diamondsThe Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has temporarily suspended finalisation of the Chain of Custody (CoC) Standard for diamonds, in order to allow for an extended period of consultation.

For the past 18 months, it has been engaged in an extensive public consultation process investigating how it can assist members who are seeking to utilise chain-of-custody certification as a voluntary, complementary element to the RJC Member Certification process.

The RJC has stated that it “initiated this work in the belief that chain-of-custody certification is a tool that can strengthen the integrity of the jewellery supply chain,” and that it “had initially planned to launch its CoC Standard for gold, platinum group metals and diamonds in 2012, however some RJC members in the diamond supply chain recently raised concerns regarding potential impediments for the implementation of the draft RJC CoC Standard in the diamond supply chain. As a result, the RJC Standards Committee agreed to temporarily suspend the finalisation of the draft… as it applies to diamonds, so as to undertake additional consultation with the diamond industry concerning [its] feasibility.”

The RJC has reassured the industry that the decision to temporarily suspend finalisation of the CoC Standard for diamonds will not impact upon the upcoming completion and implementation of the CoC Standard for gold and platinum group metals, which it expects to issue early in 2012, with the first certifications against the standard expected in the second quarter of 2012. “It is anticipated that this CoC Standard will assist companies in the gold jewellery supply chain to meet the CoC requirements established by the United States’ Dodd-Frank legislation regarding the avoidance of conflict gold,” the organisation adds.

A sub-committee of the RJC Standards Committee, consisting of members from all sectors of the diamond jewellery supply chain, has been formed with the objective of consulting further with companies and trade associations in the diamond sector in an effort to resolve the concerns raised. The terms of reference, including the reporting timetable, for the sub-committee are currently being developed and will be posted on the RJC website as soon as they have been completed and formally ratified by the RJC Standards Committee. This is expected to occur in February 2012.

future 100 honour for fifi bijoux director Vivien JohnstonFounder and managing director of Fifi Bijoux Vivien Johnston has been announced as one of the Future 100 Young Social Entrepreneurs during Global Entrepreneurship Week 2011.

The awards recognise the success of young entrepreneurs aged 18 to 35 who demonstrate entrepreneurial flair and innovation in progressing a responsible business venture, and Vivien’s company Fifi Bijoux works to “spend time and care in securing suppliers who share [its] vision that human rights must be respected and upheld and that environmental impact should be minimised.”

Vivien said: “I’m thrilled to be named as a Future 100 Young Social Entrepreneur. I founded Fifi Bijoux in 2006, and since then it’s grown in reputation as a brand synonymous with luxury and best practice for fair, responsible and equitable mining of precious natural resources.

“As a designer, I love to create exquisite pieces and want customers to enjoy beautiful jewellery; assured that no abuse of human rights or unwarranted impact on the environment has occurred to produce it.

“The Future 100 Award means a lot to me. Particularly in the current difficult economic climate, I think it’s especially important to recognise businesses which maintain a strong sense of conscience as well as a commercial focus.”

15 – 17 January 2012Top Drawer – Spring/SummerEarls Court, Londonwww.topdrawer.co.uk

20 – 23 January 2012Eclat de ModePavillon Porte de VersaillesParis, Francewww.bijorhca.com

22 – 24 January 2012Scotland’s Trade Fair SpringThe SECC, Glasgowwww.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

29 – 31 January 2012PrintorEurexpo, Lyons, Francewww.printor.fr

29 January – 1 February 2012ChicThe Ricoh Arena, Coventrywww.chicuk.com

5 – 9 February 2012The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair InternationalNEC, Birminghamwww.thejewelleryshow.com

Dates for your diary...

TRENDS16

Thinking outside the box

Janet Fitch kicks off the New Year by focusing on the innovative

use of materials and design concepts by jewellery graduates, designer-makers and brands

Lowe and Partners, the global communications agency, sponsored the inaugural Nova Award in the building’s new Lethaby Gallery. The winner’s and runners ups’ designs, from across the disciplines, were shown in Crossover, the aptly named exhibition embracing the creative crossover processes the new building is designed to foster.

Jewellery designer Pip Jolley was commended for her witty collection of hair rollers, grips and slides, displayed on period packaging, and inspired by the effort and ingenuity that 1940s women put into their hair and makeup. (www.pipjolley.com)

Browsing the Christmas exhibition in the Lesley Craze Gallery in Clerkenwell Green, London, I came across the beautiful sculptural leather pieces created by award-winning Middlesex University graduate Tania Clarke Hall, and then visited her in her studio in Cockpit Arts nearby. “Leather is my chosen material. With its flexible, forgiving but robust nature, it’s my perfect creative playmate,” she says. Slashing, colouring and twisting the cut edges, Tania creates bold, geometric but sophisticated and wearable forms. (www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk, www.taniaclarkehall.com)

Happy New Year, and let’s hope it’s a resoundingly successful one despite some of the predictions – if we’re all doomed as prophesied on 21 December 2012 then there is even more reason to push the boat

out over the coming months! However if, as seems most likely, the Mayan calendar has been misinterpreted, then here’s to long life and happiness in our trade.

Another prediction is for a worldwide shortage of rare earth metals over the next three years, which prompted me to start the New Year with a selection of jewellery that doesn’t rely on traditional materials.

Central St Martins College is famed for alumni like Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Antony Gormley, and jewellery designer Theo Fennell. The jewellery school has nurtured the careers of many excellent and innovative designer-makers, and is now ensconced in its new home in Kings Cross – the Grade 2 listed Granary Building, designed by award-winning architect Stanton Williams, providing a modern and purpose-built environment for the education of art and design students.

Central St Martins College

Tania Clarke Hall

Pip Jolley

The Library

TRENDS 17

Rachel Clark

Dower and Hall

Nicholas James

The exhibition at Kath Libbert’s Jewellery Gallery at Salt’s Mill, Saltaire, near Bradford, Yorkshire, on until 29 January, is called Traces: Rust, Dust and Belly Button Fluff – all components used by the new graduates featured in the show. I am fascinated by Kerry Howley’s intricate necklaces woven from discarded human hair, which can be an attraction or an aversion, although it was beloved of the Victorians. (www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk, www.kerryhowley.co.uk)

I came across the striking and bold abstract jewellery of Rachel Clark at Betty Jackson’s shop, where Rachel is manager as well as making and developing her jewellery. Each piece is made from acrylic, set with its own unique detailing of metal, wire, silver, gold and gloss, and has caught the eye of Vogue Italia and The Times fashion press. (www.rachelclarkjewellery.com)

Looking forward to Valentine’s Day, my star buy is Nicholas James’s luxurious collection of ‘savage’ sovereign rings that are masculine, tough, and even menacing, but are all about jewel-sprayed opulence. There’s Tom – 18 carat white gold embellished with flowers and Burmese rubies; Ripper – 18 carat gold with white and black diamonds, a black satin rhodium finish and golden slashes; and Slag – in 18 carat brown gold with pavé diamonds in broody shades of grey, brown and white, some set in reverse to evoke a weapon effect. These striking rings are the fulfilment of the personal dream of Nick Fitch, founder and creator of Nicholas James, to bring back the sovereign ring, this time with bravado and what he calls “goldsmithing with a rebellious twist.” (www.nicholasjames.com)

And as it’s a Leap Year, when ladies can traditionally propose to their man, why not turn social customs upside down with the Take the Leap ring, cleverly created by Dower and Hall? It’s a weighty silver band with ‘Marry Me 29.02.12’ engraved on the inside. (www.dowerandhall.com)

Pip Jolley

Kerry Howley

WATCH THIS SPACE20

An unexpected conversation inspires Keith Fisher to look into the history and achievements of a

watch industry giant whose success is

built on innovation and affordability

I always seem to meet watch enthusiasts in the most unlikely places. A pal of mine – Freddie – asked me to accompany him on a

trip to buy a new car at a dealer in High Wycombe. Why he asked me I will never know – I know absolutely nothing about cars, except that you sit in them and drive from A to B. “Oh stop moaning and just tell me what you think,” he instructed me.

So the next thing I know, I am in the office talking to the proprietor, while my pal is having a test drive. He introduced himself as Ian; his sidekick was a young Greek chap called Anthony; and his father Steve was also present because he helps out around the place.

Now I am not a ‘flash’ person (honest!), but I was wearing on my wrist a gold Cartier Tourbillon. It is an impressive piece of art if I say so myself, and it turned out to be something of a conversation starter…

Ian: “Nice watch Keith, but I am a Tissot man. I don’t know why; I just love them.”

Steve: “I have a Patek Philippe at home, which is a family heirloom from Athens. I wouldn’t dare wear it to work.”

Anthony: “You can keep all your fancy, expensive watches. I will stick to what I know best – Citizen.”

If I told you we spoke about watches for the next hour-and-a-half, you wouldn’t believe me; but we did. And it was Anthony’s words which really made me think.

Sometimes an alleged watch ‘connoisseur’ like me tends to concentrate on the more expensive top-end of the market, and ignore (not deliberately) the obvious. Citizen, for example, is one of the largest watch movement producers.

So, our conversation led me to decide to write about this watch giant, which you can see on any high street the length and breadth of the country.

To discover the roots of the name ‘Citizen’, we have to go back as far as 1924, when Citizen’s forerunner, the Shokosha Watch Research Institute, produced its first pocket watch, called – yes, you’ve guessed it – the Citizen. The then Mayor of Tokyo, Mr Shimpei Goto, named the watch ‘Citizen’ in the hope that it (a luxury item of those times) would become widely available to ordinary citizens and be sold throughout the world. Once the Citizen Watch Company was established in 1930 it never looked back.

Chance encounters

• In 1996, Citizen was awarded the Japan Environment Association’s Eco-Mark for the technology that goes into the watch – a world first.

I think you will agree that this list is most impressive, as befits a company always seeking to lead the market in innovation.

As my new chum Anthony attests, Citizen watches continue to make timekeeping an art form with stylish designs. He adds: “Because Citizen watches are very reasonably priced, it means I have a collection for different occasions. I recently bought the Eco-Drive Perpetual Calendar. I really love it, and it didn’t cost the earth.”

We chatted and chatted until we remembered: “Oh, the car!”

“It’s a beauty,” said Freddie, when we finally found him with his head buried beneath the bonnet. “Sold!” he exclaimed.

A jolly good day all round.

WATCH THIS SPACE 21

Since 1986, Citizen has been one of the world’s largest watch movement producers; leading the industry in technological advances, which make its watches oh-so-affordable without compromising on quality.

Some of the company’s notable achievements are as follows:• In 1956 Citizen made the first

shock-resistant watch ever manufactured by a Japanese company, called Palashock.

• It created the first Japanese-manufactured water-resistant watch.

• It created the world’s first professional dive watch to electronically sense depths.

• Stiletto introduced as the world’s thinnest light-powered watch.

• In 1978, Citizen broke the one-millimetre barrier in the quest for the flattest watch in the world and manufactured a movement (calibre 7900 or 790).

• It created the first voice recognition watch.

• It leads the world in light-powered watches with the Eco-Drive watch collection, which uses natural and artificial light as power sources and never needs a battery.

“Because Cit izen watches are very reasonably priced, i t means I have a col lect ion for different occasions”

NEW TImEPIECES22

Ones to watch

A special model for Baselworld, the G-Shock Master of G Frogman GWF-T1000BS has a special 64 titanium-reinforced body that combines toughness with an impressively light weight. It also features carved-out mode buttons; synthetic ruby-adorned front screw-tops; a tide graph with moon data; a screw-lock case back; and a rust-resistant structure.Information: www.g-shock.co.uk RRP: £1,500

The TT1 Day Date is the latest offering from Oris’s Motorsport collection. Although inspired by Formula One, the TT1 belies its track origins with a bold white appearance and sleek, stylish design. Featuring a three-piece stainless steel case; white polished ceramic top ring; stainless steel crown; and screw-down case back with mineral crystal, Oris says the TT1 Day Date “emerges from the intensity of the Formula One arena as an iconic statement piece for men and women.”Information: 01784 410 352 or www.oris.ch RRP: £1,000 to £1,142 (prices may vary from time to time based on the rate of exchange)

The Ultra Slim collection of 15 dress watches by Rotary embraces the return of vintage styling and makes reference to the company’s models from the 1970s and 80s. The Ultra Slim range’s design details include a sleek side profile of just 4.85 millimetres; mother of pearl dials; Austrian crystal-set bezels; and a combination of both strap and bracelet watches. As long as the watch is serviced every three years at a Rotary Service Centre, it is also covered by a lifetime guarantee.Information: 0207 434 5500 or www.rotarywatches.com RRP: £189 (rose gold plate gents’ strap watch)

SPRINg fAIR 2012 PREVIEW24

Last year we discussed the impact that the budget cuts were having on industry motivation, and there is no avoiding the fact that the situation is still challenging. But, focusing on the positives, what glimmers or rays of hope have you seen since the 2011 event?In a word – innovation. During the last year jewellery designers have worked incredibly hard to ensure their collections are appealing and attractively priced for the end consumer. Similarly, jewellery brands have been clever to support the retail jewellers with shop-in-shop or point of sale merchandising in order to stimulate more sales, and trade associations are offering even more support and smart advice for the whole industry. Everyone I meet is innovating.

With Spring Fair just around the corner, Louise Hoffman speaks to Julie Driscoll – organiser of the Jewellery Show section – to find out about the

new initiatives planned for 2012, and her thoughts on the recent and future success of the industry

Innovation nation

In view of this, how do you hope to see visitors and exhibitors utilising the Jewellery Show event to best advantage, in order to lay the foundations for a successful 2012? Retail jewellers will be coming to find the next big thing. They want to ensure that they will be the first on their high street to be a stockist of the next lucrative trend. They also want excellent customer service, which brings me onto the exhibitors. Our brands, suppliers and designers will be striving to offer the very best service and support to retailers, providing them with new collections at great prices.

Exhibitors are also using the event to stand out from the crowd: Pandora is sponsoring the Catwalk Café; Truth is providing all retail jewellers with lanyards to remind them of the

growing importance of this brand; Hockley Mint is emphasising its excellent customer service by giving each retailer the chance to become a VIP for the day through sponsorship of the VIP programme; Ti Sento is providing retailers with show bags; Spinning Jewellery is welcoming visitors to the show through the sponsored registration area; and Bering Time is creating a lounge within the Jewellery Show.

There is also the Houlden Design Quarter Gems area and award and the Company of Master Jewellers’ Best New Collection competition and award; and TH March and the BJA will both be celebrating 125 years in the industry – the former sponsoring the VIP lounge and the latter celebrating on its stand.

As you can see everyone is working hard to ensure that retailers have the very best experience.

Are you introducing any new initiatives to help attendees to achieve this?The editing is even better this year. We have introduced the new Time section, which incorporates almost 100 watch brands such as Revue Thommen, Alessandro Baldieri,

SPRINg fAIR 2012 PREVIEW 25

Torgoen Swiss and Kennett, and visitors can also look forward to seeing Storm Watches, Issey Miyake, Festina, Chic, George, Identify London, Oasis, Playboy and Puma Freefall, Henley, Wingmaster, Ravel, Tom Dexter, Oozoo, Louis Frey, Switch, Danish Designs, Time IT and Icon Watches. Retail jewellers like to be able to find brands and collections easily, and editing will help them to achieve this.

Do you have any new exhibitors lined up this year? The line-up of new brands is really exciting – we have Swarovski, which is exhibiting for the first time in many years! Other fantastic brands include Tresor Paris, London Pearl Company, Dan Jewellers, Charles Green, Saint Maurice and Phantasya. We are also proud to welcome Spinning Jewellery, Ken Carr London and Breuning back to the exhibition after a few years’ absence.

What are your expectations for the Jewellery Show in terms of trends?Architectural design is going to be a key trend. Designers and brands are playing with sculptural form, which results in some really interesting pieces.

Symbols will also be a trend throughout the show; jewellery brands such as the new brand Buddha to Buddha are reflecting consumers’ desire for meaning within their jewellery. Symbols such as love and peace will be commonplace, as will the re-invented friendship bracelets. This trend can be described as ‘hyperculture’. Quality materials and the skills of designers are celebrated, juxtaposed and enhanced to shape a contemporary luxury aesthetic. The fusing of leather and diamonds is a great example of this and can be found in many collections around the show.

Fauna and flora will also be prevalent. Animal inspired jewellery and symbols will add a sense of cheekiness and fun to the collections on show – check out the P Kennedy range for examples of this.

Which Design Quarter collections are you most looking forward to viewing?The Houlden Design Quarter Gems will be a real treat. Leyla Abdollahi is extremely interesting, as is Cindy Dennis Mangan, Sarah Ho and Rachel Galley. Quite frankly, any designer in the Design Quarter should be a must on any retail jeweller’s visit to the show! The Houlden Group will create the Designs of Excellence collection from the Design Quarter Gems. This collection will go on tour throughout the Houlden Group’s retail jewellers for 2012, enabling the Group to bring design to the forefront of consumers’ minds and to give their members a real point of difference on the high street.

Finally, what progress do you hope to see the industry make following on from February?Retailers, brands and suppliers need to collaborate to keep the British jewellery industry thriving. By constantly re-inventing and pushing innovation we can encourage consumers to buy jewellery rather than investing in other gift items. Jewellery is the most precious and the most valued of gifts – let’s work together to keep it that way.

“By constantly re-inventing and pushing

innovation we can encourage consumers

to buy jewellery rather than investing in other gift i tems”

“Our brands, suppliers and designers wil l be striving to offer the very best service and support to retai lers, providing them

with new collect ions at great prices”


Devon designer Banyan Jewellery says it is well known for its eclectic and affordable ranges of hand crafted silver, in which ever-popular signature pieces accompany new, inspired designs. For 2012, Banyan is launching a fresh, original collection at Spring Fair and Top Drawer (stand V27). The sterling silver creations are adorned with gold, copper and brass, and semi-precious stones or vibrant opalites add accent and colour. The company says: “Established since 1997, Banyan’s growing customer base is testament to [our] personable, friendly approach. The essence of Banyan is to create jewellery that can be worn, enjoyed and afforded.”Information: 01626 853 384 or www.banyanjewellery.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, B47

Just Brothers says it has been at the forefront of jewellery and gift packaging for over 50 years. Catering for the whole market spectrum, it provides boxes and display items in a selection of different styles, ranging from inexpensive card to luxurious leather. The company’s speciality is its wide variety of bespoke packaging, with low minimum orders. One of the most recent stock additions is the Majestic Series, covered in a modern, hairline-look material and available in four striking colours. Information: [email protected] or [email protected] Stand: Hall 18, M60-N61

Vintage continues to be a strong theme in fashion, which Kali Ma says is reflected in the popularity of its marcasite collection. “We have had a very busy year in 2011 with our marcasite range,” says managing director Emma, “so we have continued to expand the collection, adding many more particularly nature-inspired designs for 2012.” Information: 01803 872 555 or www.kalimadesigns.com Stand: Hall 18, K61

“Synonymous with success, elegance and trend-setting,” Lucet Mundi says it has been met with an overwhelming response from jewellery stores. “Our sparkling merchandise coupled with superb customer service has our population soaring!” it says. Lucet Mundi will be exhibiting at Spring Fair, where it will be launching two new collections.Information: 0208 211 7286 or [email protected] Stand: Hall 17, U42-V43

“The PUK3s precision welder is revolutionising jewellery workshops throughout the UK,” says Sutton Tools. “PUK welding technology offers solderless welds as small as 0.1 millimetres. As heat is localised and dissipates rapidly, it allows the work piece to be handheld, and welds to be safely made next to heat sensitive components such as gemstones, pearls and opals. The 10x microscope leaves both hands free to position components, allowing delicate repairs, ring sizing, re-tipping and porosity filling to be completed quickly and easily. The unique HF Pulse mode enables traditionally difficult welds in conductive metals like silver to be done with relative ease.”Information: 0121 236 7139 or www.suttontools.co.uk Stand: Hall 17, T60


BQ Watches, “Europe’s number one buyer and seller of pre-owned luxury watches,” specialises in pre-owned Rolex watches, but also trades in Cartier, Breitling and all other high quality brands. The company adds that it holds a continuous stock of all the popular Rolex models, including Datejust, Date, Day-Date, Submariner, GMT Master, Explorers, Millgaus, Daytona and Yachtmaster. All its watches are fully serviced and refurbished to original factory standard, and come boxed with a certificate of authenticity and one-year guarantee. Information: 0208 953 4575, [email protected] or www.bqwatches.com Stand: Hall 17, S42-T43

Jo for Girls is adding four watches to its jewellery brand collection, incorporating its popular pink flower design and a pink heart from the logo. With a choice of two designs in bright pink silicon, Jo for Girls is “helping the youngsters stay in fashion, while the pink PU strap gives a more ‘grown-up’ feel.” The whole collection can be viewed at this year’s Spring Fair. Information: 01887 820 760 or [email protected] Stand: Hall 18, G107

The unisex, hand-sewn sheep’s leather bracelet by Svane & Lührs, with its 925 sterling silver, rhodium-plated magnetic lock, is designed to be “a timeless piece of jewellery.” Whether it’s the “cool metallic, reptile, snake skin or suede, there is a style to suit everyone and every occasion,” says the brand. With over 350 charms in silver or gold-plated silver, sparkling precious stones, CZ and freshwater pearl, there are plenty of opportunities for customers to personalise their bracelets.Information: 0191 214 7074 or [email protected] Stand: Hall 17, N08-P09

Rofin is using Spring Fair 2012 to introduce the latest generation of the Performance jewellery welding laser. “Laser welding allows flawless results in repair, resizing, re-tipping or tacking of intricate pieces in platinum, titanium, gold or silver. Taking no more than a few seconds, once a laser welder is installed in a workshop it is typically being used on every item passing through, after the first weeks of evaluation. Low heat input, non-contact welding and precise positioning make the welding task very straightforward,” the company explains, adding: “The Spring Fair is an ideal opportunity to get hands-on with the latest laser technology.”Information: 01327 701 100 or www.rofin.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, M75

This year, Treasure House will be showcasing its new ranges of nine and 18 carat gold and platinum diamond engagement, eternity and wedding bands. It will also feature high quality premium mounts for rings, pendants and earrings, including the recently introduced range of ring mounts with pre-set diamond shoulders for you to set your own diamonds into. Catalogues are available.Information: 0207 400 0000 or www.thgold.com Stand: Hall 17, T14-U15


To celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the British Olympics in 2012, Cavendish French is excited to be launching the unique sterling silver and CZ British Jewellery Collection at the Birmingham Spring Fair. The range is designed and handcrafted in sterling silver and set with sparkling coloured CZs. “Visit us and be the first to see this new and exciting collection, and maximise your sales opportunities for everything British this year,” says Cavendish French. Information: 0800 731 4389, [email protected] or www.cavendishfrench.com Stand: Hall 18, C05

Jessica Jewellery Design’s acrylic jewellery has a unique optical effect created by applying matt and polished surface finishes. Each piece is individually handmade, ensuring no two items are identical. Featuring a wide selection of designs overall, the collection is inspired by images of nature and of man-made structures. The Stained Glass range (pictured) captures the bold colours and patterns from Jessica’s own photos of stained glass. Information: 07977 676 232, [email protected] or www.jessicajewellerydesign.co.uk Stand: Hall 6, Q19

Kutuu is a new exhibitor to Spring Fair and will be displaying its full range of meaningful and sentimental jewellery, which is all made in sterling silver in the UK. Along with its existing range, Kutuu will be displaying a new line of leather friendship bracelets and pewter keyrings. Information: 01352 756 797, [email protected] or www.kutuuwholesale.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, G09

Pomegranate says it is delighted to be exhibiting at the Jewellery Show in Birmingham for the second year running, showcasing its newest collections of silver and vermeil jewellery, set with coloured gemstones. Pomegranate’s designs “place an emphasis on simple, organic shapes that are in turn off-set with hand-worked, unusual finishes.” The collection incorporates statement pieces and more demure everyday pieces – candy-coloured studs and delicate chain necklaces, embellished with hanging discs, for example.Information: 0207 937 9735, [email protected] or www.pomegranate-london.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, E13

The Arles bracelet is a new addition to the Tresor Paris Neptune Collection, and has arrived in time for 2012. Featuring 11 icy-blue crystal spheres, the Arles bracelet is “ideal for teaming with a glamorous evening dress or, if you’re lucky enough to escape the winter blues, alongside a pretty summer outfit,” says Tresor Paris. Worn by model Katia Elizarova, the Arles is finished with natural magnetite stones, said to bring good luck, stability, love and strength. Tresor Paris will be adding to the Neptune range at Spring Fair.Information: 0203 355 4030 Stand: Hall 17, U04-V05


Corona will be exhibiting a new range of diamond-set jewellery made with Canadian certified gold at Spring Fair 2012. “All pieces bearing the unique certification mark are guaranteed to use gold that was mined and refined in Canada,” says the company, which will also be showcasing a collection of Canadian Maple Leaf diamonds traceable to the source of origin, and its new traceable brand, ‘I Am Canadian’ – both with full marketing back-up. Contact Cherry Lench for more information. Information: 01299 832 813, www.coronajewellery.com or www.mapleleafdiamonds.com Stand: Hall 17, N06/P07

Hockley Mint says it has again been putting together an exquisite range of ring mounts and wedding rings to add to the established Wedfit range. The new release adds extra flair to this comprehensive selection of ring mounts, plain bands and precision-engineered diamond wedding rings, and now includes pendants and earrings. “Hockley Mint has worked tirelessly throughout the last 12 months on improving an already reputable customer service. By re-locating to a brand new custom-built production facility, [we] have been able to enhance technologies, introduce new designers and processes, and cut delivery times, with the vision of being your perfect jewellery services partner,” it says.Information: 0121 242 0042, [email protected] or www.hockleymint.co.uk Stand: Hall 17, Q30/R31

Lavan Designer Jewellery, which was established in 1993, will launch its new spring 2012 designs at Spring Fair and Top Drawer (stand TDC16), with its gold and silver collection with opals and pearls. “David Weinberger’s distinctive jewellery has been renowned for its classical and contemporary designs, and all pieces are individually handmade in Buckingham, UK,” says the company. Information: 01280 815 499, or www.lavanjewellery.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, DQ24

British company Ping Ping Jewellery offers a range of pieces featuring jade, pearl, coral agate and other semi-precious gemstones mounted on silver or gold. Seeking to cater to all markets, its designs range from the striking and contemporary, with brightly coloured gemstones, to the traditional, with pearl necklaces and bracelets. Ping Ping also specialises in jade and carries a wide range of jewellery crafted from the Orient’s revered ‘Stone of Heaven’. The company also wholesales a vast range of strung and un-strung freshwater pearls, as well as offering Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls. All stocks are held in the UK for immediate delivery.Information: 01980 625 705 or www.pingping.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, G04

Following the success of its men’s leather bracelets with stainless steel clasps, Unique Jewelry is introducing a collection of leather bracelets for ladies as well. Combining colourful leather with stainless steel clasps, and gold-plated or freshwater pearl clasps for a more elegant look, the designs are “urban, young and contemporary and crafted in the highest quality at affordable prices.” Information: www.uniquejewelry.co.uk Stand: Hall 17, N14/P15

The new Sterling Silver Echo collection from Curteis comprises two necklace styles, with a matching bracelet and earrings. This dainty twig collection “captures one of nature’s treasures,” and is “intricately detailed creating inspirational beauty.” Each piece is partnered with delicate lavender Swarovski pearls. All pieces are hand-assembled and finished to a high quality.Information: 0800 195 6771 or www.curteis.comStand: Hall 17, P59

SPRINg fAIR 2012 PREVIEW 33

Hazel Atkinson Jewellery’s unique, hand-painted anodised aluminium jewellery is exclusively crafted in the UK with competitive wholesale prices. New colours have also been added to its Natural Selection range, with watery blues, spicy oranges and zesty greens debuting at Spring Fair 2012.Information: 0115 958 6183 or www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, DQ06

Designer costume jewellery brand Bulatti will be showcasing its new spring 2012 collection at Spring Fair. Now in its 27th year, the Dutch brand has “once again produced a stunning range that will appeal to the more discerning customer that demands quality, style and original design in their choice of jewellery.” Each piece is supplied with beautiful packaging, guarantee certificates and detachable extension chains, and is marked with a Bulatti tag to ensure authenticity. An ongoing PR campaign in the national press and POS display items maintain brand awareness. Information: [email protected] or www.bulatti.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, B04

PH Wedding Rings says it has “listened and responded to you, our customers’ needs, and brought into 2012 our new attractive and affordable range.” ‘Commercial, yet individual’ is the company’s design theme for the year, and it is continually creating new designs by utilising technology and exploiting the exciting qualities of platinum and palladium. “Our experienced craftsmen bring you the highest quality of UK manufacturing, coupled with very competitive pricing, second-to-none service, turnaround and of course our renowned friendly, trusted relationship,” the company adds. For silver samples or catalogues, please contact the company using the details below.Information: 0208 203 1919, [email protected] or www.phrings.com Stand: Hall 17, Q12

Vizati Ltd will be featuring a collection of hundreds of solid Ethiopian opals set in sterling silver. “The quality of fire is the best ever shown, with pendants, drop earrings and adjustable rings,” says the company. Also available on a first-come-first-served basis will be a large quantity of spectacular Russian ammonites that have been completely replaced by sparkling pyrites. In addition to its sterling silver ranges, Vizati will be showing a substantial collection of designer five micron silver-plated jewellery. “Built to last, this range is beautifully finished, nickel- and lead-free and attractively boxed,” says the company, adding: “It looks exactly like sterling silver, but is a fraction of the price!”Information: 01323 485 605 Stand: Hall 18, H05

Eltikki founder Nikee’s journey with jewellery and manufacture started at a very early age, when she used to sit and make jewellery with Fimo and sell it at jewellery parties. She moved onto precious metals and semi-precious stones around 20 years ago. “One of my collections was developed from my love of flowers such as blossom, roses and willow trees. I like to capture the raw textures of the flowers and trees and ensure that every piece looks individual and not mass-produced,” she says. “My pieces are very individual, and I hope that each time you pick up a piece, you will find something different that you never noticed before.”Information: 023 9255 3026, [email protected] or www.eltikki.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, C64

Hallmark Design and Shopfitting Ltd is a design-led company that has been designing and installing attractive, functional shops for over 40 years, with its interiors covering a wide spectrum of styles, from the contemporary to the traditional. Working exclusively in the industry, Hallmark is able to interpret a client’s needs and its position in the marketplace, and reflect this in the finished product. With its own teams of fitters, the company can “take the project from conception to completion.”Information: 0121 355 3333, [email protected] or www.hallmarkdesign.co.uk Stand: Hall 17, P61

Award-winning jewellery designer Lucy Quartermaine is a new exhibitor to the Jewellery Show, where she will be launching many new pieces for 2012, including more button and insect designs. LucyQ Designs offers a fun, modern twist to traditional craftsmanship. Design inspiration comes from everyday life, such as buttons, jigsaws, flowers, drops of water, insects and even crisps. These collections “have a definite ‘wow’ factor as they are proven to turn heads,” says the brand, adding that “each and every piece is handmade to an extremely high standard.”Information: 01244 380 842, [email protected] or www.lucyqdesigns.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, DQ18

Neilsonphotography is a UK-based, multi-award-winning jewellery, watch and fine product photography studio. It specialises in “producing world-class advertising images for brands, retailers, manufacturers and independent designers in the jewellery, watch and fine product industries,” as well as providing animation and 3D capability for the web. Launching at Spring Fair is a new 3D print marketing solution, set to be revealed at the show.Information: 0141 353 1383, [email protected] or www.neilsonphotography.com Stand: Hall 17, U58

World of Charms Ltd has just launched the Cuffs of Love jewellery range. Every piece in the collection has a connection with love, and is for those who embrace and want to express the connection of love they cherish with friends, family members and partners. Designer Igal Dahan is the creative genius behind the Cuffs of Love bracelet and the Pain of Love pendant.Information: 0871 900 1899 or www.worldofcharms.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, B10-C11



With extensive experience in the creation of fine silver and gold jewellery products, Elran Ltd has put together an “exquisite new collection of contemporary hand-made jewellery,” incorporating high quality silver and nine-carat gold, set with semi-precious stones. Information: 0870 224 4866 or www.avivsilver.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, E28-G29

Gemvision Europe will be demonstrating how the future lies in technology-based jewellery retailing at this year’s Spring Fair. Highlights will include live demonstrations of its newest CounterSketch Studio 2.6, which “offers retailers an easy-to-use bespoke design service in-store, while significantly expanding their product range without the overheads of holding stock.” In addition, visitors will be able to see demonstrations of the latest version of Gemvision’s Matrix 7 design software, which “improves on traditional CAD functionality, giving designers more freedom to create the complex organic design shapes that are generally only created by hand.”Information: 0113 389 9710, [email protected] or www.gemvision.com Stand: Hall 18, N59

A trained gemmologist, Mara Hotung launched her jewellery company in 2007, after a successful career at Sotheby’s and Van Cleef & Arpels. Her inspiration comes from the past, nature and her surroundings. Setting her pieces with unique and unusual stones, she favours the subtle colours of rose quartz, pale green kunzite and moonstone, juxtaposed with vibrant gems such as amethyst or intense yellow sapphires. Functionality is a key theme – for example a long necklace can be shortened into a choker and bracelet.Information: [email protected] or www.marahotungjewels.com Stand: Hall 18, DQ32

McCourts Jewellery offers fine and distinctive quality pieces that are made to the company’s own specifications. Supplying the industry since 1979, McCourts says it is renowned for its unusual designs. “Our strength lies in attractive pricing and superb quality in 18 carat gold, with some 14 carat as well,” it adds. McCourts’ stones originate from many different countries and include diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. The company also offers a wide variety of Australian light and boulder opals, free form opals and calibrated shaped opals. Information: 01670 788 989 or www.mccourtsjewellery.co.uk Stand: Hall 17, R36

Bulle d’Amour is made with high-quality materials that range from crystals to pearls, with every beaded Shamballa bracelet designed to cater to young and trendy clientele. “The vast collection of Bulle d’Amour bracelets in numerous styles means that there is a Shamballa bead bracelet for everyone,” says World of Charms Ltd. “The beads offset each other perfectly with the black nylon strand to create a piece of Shamballa jewellery that you can wear anytime.” Full POS is available with starter packs.Information: 0871 900 1899 or www.worldofcharms.co.uk Stand: Hall 18, B10-C11

ROUTES TO mARKET 39

The past few decades have been underpinned by the huge growth of both the internet and mobile phone technology. In this time

the retail market has seen ever more shoppers switching on their PCs and mobile phones to browse and shop.

The UK’s online retail market was valued last year at £58.8 billion, and the online market is recognised as one of the main driving forces behind the growth of the retail sector. With consumers having spent over £300 billion online since 2000, it is no wonder that retailers have embraced the new developments and are constantly looking to technology for innovative ways to promote their brands and improve the shopping experience for their customers.

One of the biggest recent developments in new technology is the smartphone; the ease with which users are now able to browse the internet on their mobile phones has opened up a great wealth of possibilities for

With the growth of the internet and mobile technology across the retail sector, Hannah Scott looks at the emerging routes to market in the jewellery industry

businesses. Hand in hand with the development of smartphones came the mobile app: an internet application that runs on smartphones and other mobile platforms. Apps help to ease the process of mobile online browsing by connecting users to internet services, which are usually accessed on desktop or notebook computers. The new generation of smartphone user spends a great deal of time socialising, playing games, catching up on the news, and, of course, shopping. Therefore it is vital that retailers secure their presence in this medium.

Many businesses in the jewellery sector are already channeling this technology to appeal to new customers. Swiss watchmaker Franck Muller describes how his company’s new mobile app allows it to display detailed information to customers: “We recently developed a new application for the iPhone and are working on another for the iPad. The Franck Muller Application lets users enjoy our watches wherever

they are, and introduce their entourage to their favourite collections. By touching the hands and crowns, users can change the hours and understand the different watches by playing with them. The watches in the ‘collections’ section are illustrated by pictures taken from new angles, accompanied by descriptions of their functions and technical details.”

Mobile apps also serve to raise brand awareness, keeping consumers up to date with new innovations and developments in the company, and providing fun add-ons. Franck elaborates: “Our news section keeps our users connected to the Franck Muller community and allows them to enjoy the magic of time by dialling their number using the Franck Muller virtual handset. They can also use the app to discover their nearest boutiques, read about the brand’s history and anecdotes, or relive the emotion that imbues every collection through a series of videos.”

The newwave

Apps do not only benefit the customer; there has also been a big rise in the number of mobile apps designed with businesses in mind. The Birmingham Assay Office and its AnchorCert service have launched their own app – the Gemstone Carat Weight Estimator. Marion Wilson from the Assay Office describes the new mobile tool: “This app is evidence that a 238-year-old business is forward-looking and innovative. Its development shows that we are actively responding to the needs of today’s market. It is designed for valuers, pawnbrokers and anyone with an interest in buying stone-set jewellery, providing an estimate of the weight of gemstones from measurement; it is intended mainly for mounted stones which cannot be weighed loose. The user enters the overall weight and dimensions of the stone, and then selects the gemstone type and cut from a set of colourful graphics. An estimated weight will appear immediately and this can be further refined where appropriate.”

The shift in the market and the rise of online browsing has facilitated the start-up of a new breed of companies which provide specialist online

ROUTES TO mARKET40

marketing services to help businesses connect with today’s online customer. One such venture is Holition, a company which explores technological innovation, specialising in 3D technology. Jonathan Chippindale, CEO of Holition, describes how he has seen accessible technology open up new markets and how his company helps businesses explore these channels: “Mobile is shifting to the very heart of media content, and Holition’s augmented reality apps for iPhone, iPad and Android solutions bring the power of this new technology directly into a consumer’s increasingly mobile lifestyle.

“As an ever-increasing number of consumers possess a smartphone, there is a growing acceptance of technology among female consumers, meaning the ability to stream and deliver content across multi-platforms is becoming increasingly important to reach our key demographics. Our augmented reality applications already offer cross-platform compatibility and are available for an ever-increasing range of platforms including online, in-store or through mobile to achieve award-winning retail campaigns.

Once understood and used appropriately, these new routes to market provide a sound opportunity to engage with customers and grow your brand

The new generation of smartphone user spends a great deal

of t ime social is ing,

playing games,

catching up on the news, and, of course, shopping

“Many brands that we have worked with show positive marketing metrics as a result of our work together. For example Boucheron, the Parisian jeweller, doubled hits to its website when it launched our online application. Similarly, working with Tissot, our technology powered the UK’s first augmented reality window display at Selfridges. Our augmented reality watch application allowed consumers to virtually try on watches from its T-touch collection in-store or at home, generating the most successful PR campaign they had ever run in the UK with a 600 per cent increase in coverage from previous campaigns, and sales of Tissot watches in Selfridges increased 85 per cent during the two weeks of a special promotion at its busy London store on Oxford Street. Shoppers were able to virtually try on watches while wearing a paper wristband and holding their hands up to a screen set in the windows.”

So as many businesses within the jewellery sector embrace the future, it is important that the message spreads to all parts of the industry that online and mobile technology is the future and this sector must keep pace with new developments in order to survive. Furthermore though, once understood and used appropriately, these new routes to market provide a sound opportunity to engage with customers and grow your brand. The benefits of such campaigns are clear and so it really is an exciting time to embrace this new technology.

Franck Muller

Birmingham Assay Office

HolitionHolition

Holition

bUSINESS42

Paper trail

Ian Simpson, managing director

at Catalogues 4 Business, fights

the corner for catalogues as part of a multi-channel

marketing mix

About 12 years ago I was first introduced to the concept of multi-channel marketing. I was sitting with a prospective jewellery client reviewing what he should do with his catalogue, and as we chatted and I began to understand a little bit more about

his business, I recognised that a new way of marketing, and ultimately selling, was emerging.

Back in the late 90s, true web marketing was in its infancy; yes, people, and indeed jewellers, were making money from the web but customers were not really able or willing to understand its implications. At that time we created a catalogue, mailed it and received the order by phone or post, and if we had done something really clever, we got an email order.

The prospective client I recalled above, explained to me the way his customers were then starting to shop. As well as the mail order catalogue he had retail shops and a transactional website. He relayed to me how many of his customers would receive the catalogue and then perhaps visit the shop to look at the products, before going home and ordering on the web. Or alternatively they would go to the shop, pick up a catalogue or brochure, then place an order by phone. At the time, this activity gave birth to the concept of ‘clicks and mortar’ and then later, ‘360 degree marketing’. Already recognised by our cousins over the water, it placed the customer in the centre of a large circle of marketing channels; it didn’t matter how many channels you attacked him with just so long as he responded to one of them, and the core to this was presence and activity.

The more astute marketers recognised this early on and became very clever at integrating all channels successfully. As we know the situation has now changed beyond all recognition and ‘360 degree marketing’ has metamorphosed into ‘multi-channel marketing’; same beast, just a new suit of clothes.

So, 12 years down the line, what has changed? And, more importantly, what have we learned? The biggest single factor is that the web has grown beyond all expectations and the relentless drive of technology has meant quicker, cheaper access to the internet. There is no doubt that internet-only entrepreneurs have thrived and built substantial businesses, but initially many shunned, and even ridiculed, the continuation of paper-based marketing. And you can see the attraction of web-only trading: no print costs; no mailing or postage costs; simpler order processing; and a far more dynamic medium.

But as the web has grown, competition for a place within it has become ferocious. Ad word and affiliate programs have developed into an industry in their own right and, combined with all the other e-based marketing activity, represent a potential significant marketing spend, yet still the single biggest thing you can do to drive traffic to your website is targeted direct marketing, through mailing catalogues, brochures, leaflets and so forth.

Only last week I sat with a client looking at his web traffic figures. We were reviewing his web spend on click-throughs and traffic driving against online sales. There were two lovely peaks rising above a fairly level track of activity, and these coincided exactly with the date his targeted catalogues landed on doorsteps. What we couldn’t say, with certainty, was the effect the mailings had on sales. But if the activity had risen on the web, it was safe to assume that there had been a similar rise in activity with the retail outlets. The intention is to collect customer details using EPoS (electronic point of sale), and that will give a measurable back to the mailing and web. It is far too easy to look at each element in isolation when the key to this is the integration of data. Ours is a data-driven industry and to analyse information, in order to drive the next activity, is second nature to us. By pooling the data from all the channels it gives a much clearer picture of buyer activity, which in turn allows us to refine and customise our marketing strategy.

Without doubt, many – including those within the jewellery retail industry – saw the relentless rise of the web and internet marketing as the death knell for paper catalogues and other mailings. In truth, they should lie as uneasy bedfellows – they are at opposite ends of the technological scale; the old dependable versus the whiz kid! But it is clear they each have their place and they can learn from each other.

So – do you need a catalogue? What do you think? To be a true jewellery multi-channel marketer you have to exploit every weapon in your arsenal.

bUSINESS44

Catalogues can reach prospects in a way that no other channel can; they build brand, drive web traffic, capture sales and enrich an integrated buying experience. Remember, multi-channel marketing is all about presence and activity, at every opportunity you have to get your products in front of your prospects. Mailings are unique in that they search out your prospects and not the other way around; they are very pro-active, and when supported with the dynamic web and email channels, the effect can be outstanding.

So, here are my top 10 tips to get your jewellery catalogue fighting fit and winning more sales…

1 CoversWithout doubt the cover is the most important page in the catalogue. It quickly has to tell the reader everything about your company, your products and your proposition. It has to communicate relevancy to your target audience and draw the reader in. To use a retail parallel, it is your catalogue ‘shop window’. Walk down your local high street and see which shops attract your attention, and more importantly why. It will inevitably be a mix of brand, relevancy and desire/need; this is exactly how your cover should work.

2 Pace and eyeflowPace is the art of engaging your reader’s attention. In their most basic form, catalogues are listings, and set simply as a body of type would be extremely boring and monotonous. Good typography and pictures break the rhythm, directing the reader around the page and through the catalogue. Prudent use of graphic devices can attract attention and ‘pull out’ products. Eyeflow is vitally important; catalogues are ‘read’ in predictable ways. Research by Seigfried Voegle highlighted how a reader enters a spread top right, tracks across to the middle left and finally exits bottom right; this creates exploitable hotspots and dead areas.

3 Positioning and brand imageAs a brand-led society, we strive to be identified with the products we buy and whom we buy them from. One of the first steps to creating a great catalogue is to define and record your positioning statement, and whenever you create a catalogue ensure that its execution supports and enhances this statement. This will create an instantly recognisable sales vehicle.

4 Clear typographyTypography is a silent partner to design, yet it has the power to have a great effect on the communication of your message. Good typography lubricates the message and relays information smoothly and seamlessly. Key areas are: the choice of font; type on a background (type is much harder to read on a coloured background and is often ignored; blocks of type should never be run over pictures or be reversed out); line lengths (short line lengths are easier to read); and coloured type (avoid using coloured type, except in headings or for impact).

5 Use of icons Catalogues rely on their ease of use for success. Icons are a great way to highlight simple, recurring messages throughout a catalogue. They are best used to reinforce guarantees, service items (delivery, availability etc), price changes, new items etc. Well-designed icons become familiar to readers and they respond to them unconsciously. Ideally the icons should be explained on page two or (for bigger catalogues) highlighted at regular intervals.

6 Clear, benefit-led copyWith retail catalogues, the purpose of copy is to create a desire/demand for product. The dialogue and tone has to be appropriate to the target audience and this is sometimes difficult to judge. Humour should be approached with caution and you should never talk down to your readers. Copy should be benefit-led and reinforce the features accordingly; for example, colour is not a benefit, but strength, ease of use, performance etc are. It should also include all the information necessary to complete the purchase; remember any barrier to completing a sale results in a lost sale.

7 Easy-to-use order formsOrder forms are not a necessary evil; they are the last chance to market to your customers and they reinforce the purpose of your catalogue – to sell! It is one of the most frequently used pages in your catalogue – get it wrong and you could lose the sale! Give readers enough space to complete all the details. Include an impulse buy, free gift or offer – this is the last chance to sell to your customer.

8 Good organisationPlan your catalogue carefully with a logical journey through the sections and product groupings. You can afford to take far more risks with your buyers than with prospects. Always start with the products you are best known for at the front of prospecting catalogues – this reinforces your proposition very early on; then with your buyers, new or different products can be tested. Remember also that readers start from the back of the catalogue as well as the front – the back cover is a powerful page for offers.

9 Clear photographyWith catalogue photography, product is king. Style the photography appropriately for your audience and make it very clear what you are selling.

10 Sell off the pageIt sounds obvious but selling off the page is often misunderstood; it is not just a matter of shouting ‘buy me!’ at every opportunity – you have to create desire and expectation. Products have to be placed in a marketing context and the reader given the opportunity and information to make the purchase. Don’t put barriers between the sale and order placement; make it very clear what the buyers have to do.

Ian Simpson is managing director at design, print and marketing company Catalogues 4 business. for more information please visit

or phone 0845 230 0258.

CRySTALS AND zIRCONIA46

A sparkling selectionThe latest in eye-catching crystal and zirconia jewellery design

New from Balagan is the black Czech crystal set from the company’s Studio collection, which is also available in magenta and clear crystals. The sphere necklace is 20 millimetres in diameter, and different lengths of chain are available to suit customer requirements. The earrings are both eight millimetres in diameter, and all findings are sterling silver.Information: 0845 260 0925 or www.balagan.co.uk Spring Fair: hall 18, stands K28-L29

The Candy Bling collection from Charms UK comprises over 200 bracelets, necklaces and earrings created with coloured crystal, pearl and sterling silver. The range includes over 180 brand new pieces, including zebra crystal bracelets.Information: 0117 968 3979 Spring Fair: hall 17, stand R42

¯Gecko Jewellery has revealed its Fiorelli Silver collection for 2012. The 2012 collection showcases a myriad of new lines, including faceted beads in cat’s eye, shell and crystal teamed with sparkling pavé cubic zirconia, and every piece is crafted in rhodium-plated silver. New designs with lustrous crystal pearls and glittering crystals expand on popular collections made with Swarovski Elements. “Inspired new designs come together with best selling favourites to offer a comprehensive selection for the stylish urban woman. From best selling lines to exclusively-designed, stunning new styles, this season’s collection is the largest and most exciting one yet,” says Gecko.Information: 01376 532 000 or [email protected] Spring Fair: hall 18, stands K30/L31

® ‘Little Wishes’ by Paradise Jewellery is set to launch at Spring Fair. It is the latest concept in collectables aimed at the ever-expanding market in children’s jewellery. Colourful crystal bracelets come with a variety of detachable silver charms, which can also be worn as pendants. Presented in a pretty jewellery box, youngsters can treasure their ‘Little Wishes’ and add other charms to their collection. A stand with full POS, packaging and product information are available.Information: 0117 377 4280 or www.paradisejewellery.net Spring Fair: hall 18, stand A42

¯Phuze jewellery is designed by Orfeo Quagliata, who has been working with glass since he was just 12 years old, and all of the pieces are hand-finished in Mexico City. There are currently two Phuze jewellery ranges: Phuze Crystal and Phuze with Swarovski Elements. You can find out more about the ranges by visiting the website; contacting Jane Richards at Kaliber Design (the brand’s UK and European distributor) using the number below; or visiting the stand at Spring Fair.Information: 07989 470 044 or www.phuzedesign.com Spring Fair: hall 18, stand D74

INDUSTRy48

Launching a new brand in the jewellery industry is challenging, and it was inspiring to hear of the success of Mishca Jewels following its third year at IJL.

The brand announced a number of new stockists, including retailers across the UK and Europe such as Goodwins, Wave Jewellery, Williamson Brown, Sinclair Jewellers, Aurum Contemporary Jewellers, Simon Milne, and online retailers EG Studio and Gemondo. It turns out the combination of the launch of the brand’s new sterling silver and gem-encrusted autumn 2011/winter 2012 collection, and its overall marketing activities, are a winning formula.

I spoke to managing director Michelle Shamash about how the brand has been built, and which marketing activities have resulted in its success, as well as how she works with retail stockists to maximise sales.

How do you think retailers should present your jewellery to maximise sales? Do you have an influence on this at all? The identity of our jewellery and the brand is very important to us and we always provide our retailers with point of sale material, images and product background information to represent the Mishca Jewels brand. We are not interested in just opening a new account, but believe in building a good relationship with our retailers and listening to their feedback in order to adapt to their needs, improve our service and provide them with a competitive and fresh offering. Their feedback is of utmost importance to us and we are prepared to go that step further in order to assist them with whatever they require in order to maximise sales.

Which activities helped build the brand? Our participation at IJL has been a fantastic opportunity to increase brand exposure, raise our brand profile and show the industry that we are here to provide a fresh and innovative offering, while taking our brand commitment very seriously.

I think our strong ethos towards our customers and partners and determination

making an impact

Syreeta Tranfield uses Mishca Jewels as a case study for best practice in

launching a new brand, speaking to its managing director Michelle Shamash to

find out about her recipe for success

to achieve product excellence have also been major contributing factors in the building of the brand. We take extra care to help our retailers market our jewellery and we keep them up to date with exciting developments so that they can, in turn, communicate this with their customers. The marketing aspect is very important for a designer jewellery brand. There are many talented designers who never get noticed as they don’t promote themselves.

The majority of your new retail stockists have taken the entire sterling silver and gem-set AW11/12 collection – why do you think this collection has been so well received? The new AW11/12 collection comprises pieces that are bold yet elegant, striking and very unique. They make a statement, but at the same time are extremely wearable with good price points, and I believe that this has been key to their success. The price of gold has significantly increased in the last year and retailers are looking for alternative luxury pieces to cover their fine jewellery areas at more reasonable price points.

Has your celebrity following been useful in terms of marketing the brand, and how did you maximise this opportunity? Celebrities are at the forefront of current trends and have access to the latest fashions, being able to choose whatever they want to be seen in, so we are very privileged and honoured to have a following of celebrities who love our designs and continuously choose to wear them. This gives consumers confidence and trust in the brand, which is why it is important to maximise this opportunity by conveying this to customers in every way. We always communicate these developments to our retailers, as well as launching press, electronic and social media campaigns, which are very important for the brand.

It’s really great to see what can be achieved though close working retailer and designer relationships, and such enthusiasm is sure to be appreciated by customers.

for more information on IJL, please visit

“The marketing aspect is very important for

a designer jewellery brand. There are many

talented designers who never get

noticed as they don’t promote

themselves”

Testing for azo dyes and formaldehyde

Ben Halmshaw and Tatiana Abbey – two of the highly qualified chemists

working for the Birmingham Assay Office Laboratory – have specific expertise in

organic testing. Here they explain the tests required to ensure that jewellery articles do not represent a health risk to the consumer

HOW DO THEy DO THAT?50

Health and product safety legislation has proliferated in the past five years, placing more demands on the costume jewellery and fashion accessory supply

chain to ensure the consumer is protected from carcinogens and other dangerous substances. The Laboratory at the Birmingham Assay Office has developed its portfolio accordingly and now offers a range of tests to ensure that non-precious metal jewellery and accessories are safe and compliant with EU legislation – specifically, the forthcoming Registration,

Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of Chemicals (REACH) Directive and the Toy Safety Directive.

Suppliers of fashion jewellery and accessories need to be aware of the regulations which apply to fabrics and leather, as well as those relating to both precious and base metals such as lead, cadmium and nickel. Several tests may be applicable to ensure that potentially harmful substances are below the required limit, as set out it in the table below.

Testing matrix for textiles, clothing and leather

Item

s an

d te

stin

g

Azo

dye

test

ing

Chl

orin

ated

Phe

nols

(TC

P, T

eCP

and

PCP)

Chr

omiu

m V

I in

leat

her

Col

our

fast

ness

Dim

ethy

l fum

arat

e

Fibr

e co

mpo

sitio

n

Form

alde

hyde

Phth

alat

es

pH

Natural fabric

Synthetic fabric

Blended fabric

Leather

Synthetic PU/PVC

Plastics and

polymers

Paint/coating/

prints

Of the various widely used carcinogens which cause concern, formaldehyde and azo dyes are the most common.

FormaldehydeFormaldehyde is probably most popularly associated with embalming fluid, but it is a commonly occurring compound element, with many applications, heavily used by the automotive and furniture industry. Pure formaldehyde is a colourless gas and is

HOW DO THEy DO THAT? 51

Focus on the experts

Dr Ben halmshaw Bsc Dr Halmshaw has a degree in chemistry and a PhD in colour and polymer chemistry. He has invaluable experience after 12 years’ involvement in the research, development, testing and analysis of chemicals and products for the textile, leather and paper industries.

tatiana Abbey Tatiana Abbey is a professionally qualified chemist with almost 20 years’ experience in the chemical, cosmetic and textile industries. Her experience focuses on the chemical testing of textile materials for qualitative and quantitative analysis of fibres, dyes and finishes.

The birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 238 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. for more information please visit

extremely reactive, so is often mixed into chemical compounds to form a stable substance. It is a known carcinogen and can cause severe (if temporary) irritation to the skin and respiratory tract, and its use is therefore heavily regulated.

Formaldehyde is widely used in the textile industry, in resins for easy care and crease resistant finishes applied to cotton and other fabrics, and in flame retardant and anti-pilling finishes. It is also used in the tanning process for leather.

Several European countries and the Far East nations like China, Japan and Thailand have national legislation on formaldehyde and demand for testing in the UK is growing. The Laboratory has developed in-house methods based on established American standards and also tests to recognised ISO standards. There are currently four tests available, reporting either formaldehyde release or content for textiles and leather. Many importers of fashion accessories are now finding that UK retailers require this testing as part of their regular product compliance and safety procedures.

LegislationLegislation relating to formaldehyde is highly variable and acceptable limits depend upon the country of manufacture and sale, final application of the product and the target user. In the UK this is not a regulatory test although most retailers will set their own limits. The most commonly applied are 300mg/Kg for fibres not in direct contact with the skin; 75mg/Kg for fibres in direct contact with the skin and 20mg/Kg for items intended for children aged less than 24 months.

Other industries allow different amounts of formaldehyde, for example in cosmetics (2,000mg/kg) and oral hygiene products (1,000mg/kg).

TestingThe permissible levels listed above are minimal and accurate testing is required to ensure articles are compliant. There are several methods used in the leather and textile industries for the analysis of formaldehyde. These include three commonly used ISO standards:

• Formaldehyde Free Hydralysed ISO 14184-1 (textile products in any form).

• Formaldehyde Released ISO 14181-2 (textile products in any form).

• Formaldehyde ISP 17226-1 (leather products in any form).

Released formaldehyde testing of samples is performed by suspending them in a sealed

container over a defined amount of water using a technique known as ‘headspace extraction’.

After heating, any formaldehyde released by the textile/leather should be absorbed by the water.

Free formaldehyde testing involves the direct extraction of formaldehyde into water, to which the textile/leather has been added. The resulting solutions are then analysed using spectrophotometry and ultra violet light, with the results interpreted by expert chemists.

Azo dyes Azo colourants are the most important class of synthetic dyes and pigments, representing 60 to 80 per cent of all organic colourants. Azo dyes are commonly used in consumer goods which often come into contact with the skin, such as clothing, bedding and towels. This also includes everyday items such as footwear, gloves, wristwatch straps, handbags and purses/wallets. Most importantly toys that include textiles or leather may contain azo dyes.

Certain azo dyestuffs, when absorbed by the body, typically by skin contact, can have drastic consequences. The dyestuffs enter the human body and due to its unique conditions they then break down to dangerous amines, which are carcinogenic. The REACH Directive restricts the resulting carcinogenic amines to levels not exceeding 30mg/kg of the textile or leather.

Testing methods Slightly different techniques are used to determine the level of azo dyes, depending on whether the sample is a natural fibre, synthetic or leather. There are three recognised standards, according to the substrate to be tested. These are: BS EN ISO 17234:2010: (leather products); EN 14362-1:2003: (cellulose and protein fibres); and EN 14362-2:2003: (synthetic fibres).

Put simply, there are three stages to the tests: the azo bond is broken by using a water bath at 70°C and the resulting solutions are then filtered through a column. The solvent is evaporated and dried using nitrogen and then the sample is re-dissolved and analysed via gas chromatography, with confirmation via high performance liquid chromatography.

Ben Halmshaw says: “Our customers need an increasingly wide range of testing services to make sure their products meet consumer requirements and comply with the latest legislation. Many of our tests have been developed directly in response to customer demand to offer an appropriate service to the wider jewellery and watch industry.”

A mAN’S WORLD54

1) fable Trading: 0117 377 4214 2) gecko Jewellery: 01376 532 000 3) midhaven Ltd: 01299 851 513

men’s jewelleryNaida Ally examines trends in men’s

jewellery design, and some of the collections that are currently available to stock

fOCUSON

became more reserved, and, especially in the western world, consisted mainly of wedding rings, cufflinks and tie pins.

Men’s jewellery has made a steady comeback in recent decades – much influenced by the rise of celebrity culture in modern-day society. ‘Masculinity’ and fashion have been constantly redefined – evidently, style is not just for women – and in recent years design has reached a point where men’s jewellery is in a distinctive league of its own, covering a whole spectrum, from the ‘bling’ of diamond-encrusted statement pieces, to the sleek and subtle bracelets, necklaces and rings for everyday wear. Variety and style are key, and here we take a look at a few of the new designs that are ready to stock.

“Big, bold and beautiful,” Fable Trading’s Buddha to Buddha jewellery collection includes over 100 different types of bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces. All are individual, unique, handmade designs, crafted in sterling silver by Balinese artisans. While some pieces also feature semi-precious stones and leather, each item is individually hallmarked, with the bracelets and necklaces boasting signature patented locks. The Buddha to Buddha collection will make its UK debut this year, on show at the Spring Fair event at the NEC in February (hall

While jewellery is not usually considered the epitome of masculinity, historically men have been wearing jewellery

as long as women. To symbolise power, kings of the past (and not-so-past) have worn crowns, rings, brooches, diadems and torcs. These items evoked respect in one’s followers, and envy in rivals.

Throughout different civilisations and time spans, trends were changeable, in accordance with the tastes of those in the position to afford the jewellery; ancient Egyptians favoured jewels set in gold – the more elaborate, the higher the status of the wearer. Celtic tribesmen wore torcs, brooches and cloak pins, while Aztec men would wear a variety of silver and gold jewellery, including earrings, necklaces, nose studs and lip ornaments, with different items representing specific titles within society. During the Middle Ages and beyond, men’s jewellery was extremely popular in Europe – rings, brooches, pendants, earrings and even bangles were commonplace. Often these pieces were ornate and extravagant, and again demonstrated the wearer’s station in life. This continued up until the French Revolution, and only really saw a decline towards the end of the Victorian era, when men’s jewellery

18, stands J74 and K75.) Founded and designed by Dutch entrepreneur Batul Loomans in 1997, this fashion jewellery is popular among international celebrities, particularly appealing to men with its strong clean lines and prominent branding.

Meanwhile Gecko (Spring Fair hall 18, stands K30/L31) has introduced the latest Fred Bennett spring/summer collection, featuring “the hottest bead and woven leather bracelets [and] must-have accessories this year for the man about town.” The statement bracelets feature strong, bold shapes crafted in tactile materials. “On-trend Shamballa bead bracelets have undergone a modern restyling as seen on celebrities from Gerard Butler to David Beckham,” says Gecko. “Worn alone or layered with Fred Bennett’s woven leather bracelets, these pieces are key updates for the season.” The new Black Ice set features a silver-plated pendant on a leather cord, and a chunky leather bracelet with a silver-plated slider, both made with Swarovski Elements. “Gecko’s Fred Bennett range of men’s jewellery is designed to complement every lifestyle at any budget,” the company adds.

Also newly available is the range of stainless steel jewellery by Midhaven Ltd, which has been added to its Tribal Steel brand. The collection includes cufflinks, pendants, bracelets and necklets, together with many new unisex leather and stainless steel bracelets. Also added to its collection is the Tribal 925 Silver range of leather bracelets and necklets. Midhaven will be exhibiting at this year’s Spring Fair (hall 18, stand C01).

1 2 3

DESIgNER56

Design passion

Melanie Earl – the designer behind Rubie Rae jewellery – tells Louise Hoffman about the experience, values and design skills that form the basis of her brand

How did Rubie Rae come into existence?For 18 years I was a design manager, running the design department for one of Europe’s largest jewellery manufacturers and designing both for the UK and export. I designed for high street retailers as well as creating branded celebrity jewellery collections.

Over the years I was constantly asked when I was going to produce my own collections. So in 2005 my partner Robert and I formed Rubie Rae.

Leaving the security of a large company scared the hell out of me, but looking back it was the best thing I ever did. Robert worked for an Italian gold manufacturer and brought a different skill set to the business, which allows Rubie Rae to continue to grow and move forward. I am always thinking about design, whereas Robert adds the much needed practical and financial angle to the business.

Most jewellery retailers are reluctant to take on new designers in the current climate, preferring to go with the larger, well-known brands. But having a history in and knowledge of the industry has really helped us instil confidence in the trade and consumer.

What were your original objectives for the brand, and how have these evolved over the years?My objectives are simple: to create wearable and affordable jewellery of the highest quality that women want. I wanted the buying experience to also be representative of the quality of the jewellery, so every Rubie Rae piece comes in our own unique branded luxury packaging from Italy. Having travelled the world I also have a keen eye for fashion and detail, as well as being able to spot future trends, and this has allowed me to stay up-to-date.

These principals are and will always be the foundations of Rubie Rae’s objectives. Over the last few years I have also found that quality of design and pricing have become even more crucial for us.

What inspires your design work?Bad designs inspire me; I see so many copies of the same jewellery on the high street,

which is such a shame – no wonder the poor consumer is left confused! Designing collections that are unique also helps the

retailers to differentiate themselves. I don’t design for everyone, as I have learnt that it is

impossible to do; nor do I follow the crowd. I like to create thought-provoking jewellery that makes the wearer feel good about herself. If I can include different materials, or something that surprises yet adds value, then I will. For example, the Angel Love Chimes make a beautiful sound; Rock ‘n’ Rose uses a pretty organza silk mesh, giving the collection a soft, feminine feel; and a stunning rose gold coloured metallic cord is used for the detail in my latest collection, Burlesque.

Can you tell us about Burlesque?The inspiration for this collection came from the Elizabeth Taylor era of film, and the search for the hourglass figure. The lace detail on corsets is the key feature of this collection.

Who is your target customer?Rubie Rae’s collections are specifically created for the discerning consumer who appreciates design and is looking for a branded piece of jewellery that is romantic, feminine and affordable, as well as strikingly different. Many of my collections cross the age groups, as women often pick and mix to create their own look.

DESIgNER 57

“I l ike to create thought-provoking jewellery that makes the wearer

feel good about herself ”

“Bad designs inspire me; I see so many copies of the same jewellery on the high street, which is such a shame”

The design studio also creates bespoke, one-off pieces for the individual client, as indeed many studios do; but what makes us different is that we are also commissioned by companies – both in the UK and overseas – to produce collections for their ranges, covering all forms of fine jewellery.

How were your designs received at last year’s IJL event?Over the last few years many jewellery buyers have relied heavily on beads for business. In 2011 we saw more retailers looking for quality designed jewellery with a fresh look at standing out to the consumer. IJL was busy but not many people seemed to be placing orders at the actual show, however after the event I was surprised by the number of retailers contacting us and placing orders for Christmas.

How do you intend to develop the brand over the coming year?Keeping the brand relevant and affordable in the current market is key to the future development of the Rubie Rae brand; we are constantly striving to add value.

Finally, can you give any details on your next collections, to whet readers’ appetites?We are currently working on something we are all very excited about – all I can say at this stage is “tick tock”! I’m currently looking back at vintage/retro styling; I see this as a current trend but want to add a new angle. It’s not finished yet, but as soon as it is I will be making my customers aware of what’s new at Rubie Rae.

RETAIL SECURITy58

The threat to life is very real during a robbery and burglary, because criminals are becoming more desperate, which is always a dangerous situation. I remember

far too vividly when I was called out to a very bad robbery that ended in a fatality in Nottingham some years ago.

“The word on the street today is that attacks on jewellers are increasing and this is troubling, but unfortunately it’s the effects of the economic downturn. Gold prices have risen and with it so have night time burglaries and daytime robberies.”

Protection is crucial “Fortunately there are a lot of measures jewellers can take to protect themselves to reduce the risk of becoming a target for these unscrupulous criminals who are taking more risks to get their hands on what’s not theirs.”

Barry recommends that jewellers ensure their security system is working and that it covers all the security issues during the daytime as well as at night. “Weak or no security is just not worth the risk,” he states.

“CCTV is always a good idea because it will capture the crime and be a real help to the police during their investigations. Try and invest in a camera inside the shop as well as outside, as this will double the chances of gaining that valuable incriminating picture of the criminals. A strong metal shutter, secure locks on the doors and security glass in the window – if you don’t have shutters – is the minimum you can do.”

Top security is invaluable “Inside, the shop should have a good activation alarm and this could be linked to a fog security system, such as the Fog Cannon manufactured by PROTECT UK,” he continues.

“One of the many features of the Fog Cannon that I feel is highly effective is the panic button. This can be pressed by the jeweller or their staff

fighting backAs stories of robberies continue to hit the

headlines, Barry Harper, a retired chief inspector who has served 30 years with

the Nottinghamshire Police, provides some useful tips for protecting your shop

“

when robbers burst into the shop during the day. Who knows, this system might even have saved a life in that fatal Nottingham attack!”

The right security products“Take care to purchase the right security products that show they have gained the Secured by Design stamp of approval. This means that the police have tested the product and found it to do what it actually claims it can do.

“This applies particularly to locks, of which there are thousands on the market. Unfortunately many of them are not worth a penny – in fact they will only give you false security. Be warned – criminals can spot false security a mile off!”

Final words of advice“Take particular care when opening up the shop in the mornings and then closing down at night. The current trend is for robbers to gain access to the shop within minutes of the owner opening up in the morning.”

Watch out for anything suspicious, like a van parked nearby or maybe a group of people loitering about. Always be suspicious as to who you allow into your shop, and vary your closing-up routine and route home.

“Give your local crime prevention officer a call and he or she will be glad to give you lots of impartial security advice on how best to protect you and your business.”

“The word on the street today is that attacks on jewellers are increasing

and this is troubling, but unfortunately

i t ’s the effects of the economic downturn”

TAKINg STOCK60

stockTakinTakingstock

¯¯The new Taxom500 from Clandela is a “revolutionary way to price your jewellery,” which doesn’t need ink, electricity or replacement parts. “No need to battle with label machines or go in search of elusive ‘0’ cubes; simply pick up the Taxom, slide in a pricing module, select your price and hey presto – it’s done!” explains the company, adding: “When your prices change simply slip the module back into the Taxom and adjust the price.” The Taxom500 comes in different lengths and can be personalised with colourful frames.Information: [email protected] or www.clandela.ie

¯ Jewelworks Repairs is a well-established workshop based in the heart of Hatton Garden. Embracing modern technology and combining it with more traditional skills, it uses state-of-the-art machinery including laser machine; in-house CAD design software; wax modelling; and real-time online job tracking services. It still implements original skills from the industry, including hand-crafted traditional drawn artwork, through to in-house hand-made bespoke items. It also undertakes general repairs, remodelling, claw replacement and stone replacement. Information: 0207 831 3195, [email protected] or www.jewelworks.co.uk

¯German-based company Tezer’s range comprises sterling silver and gold-plated necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings and rings, described as “elegant, simple, contemporary designs for the modern woman.” Tezer will be exhibiting at Inhorgenta Munich, and for more information about its range please contact Sharon Acton using the phone number below.Information: 07774 928 045

61TAKINg STOCK

¯¯ AML’s new selection of beautifully-designed wedding bands is now available in addition to 60 other new designs to kickstart 2012. Offering plenty of flexibility, all of AML’s designs can be made in any colour or carat (including platinum), any width and with the option of diamonds. Palladium is now available and can also be made with nine or 18 carat gold. The company is available six days a week offering advice, quotes, delivery and much more. “Don’t forget the exceptional credit facility of six months and the attractive discounts that are on offer, which really do make AML Wedding Bands a one-stop supplier!” it adds. AML’s 2012 catalogue will be available early this year, however the 2011 brochure is still in circulation and available to order. Information: 01270 874 011

¯ As spring approaches, Marcia Lanyon Ltd is already putting together an “exciting new range of stones and pearls” for the spring season, bringing fresh sparkling colour to its range of stock. Whether you are looking for calibrated cabochons or a faceted stone in an unusual cut, Marcia Lanyon can supply “anything from classic pearls to a show-stopping string of tanzanite, or some glittering briolettes in all the colours of the rainbow.” The company’s west London office is ready to help you find whatever you need, whether it be beads, stones or pearls. “With over 30 years of experience supplying beautiful, high-quality gemstones to world-renowned designers and jewellers, Marcia Lanyon Ltd is the premier wholesaler of coloured stones to the UK jewellery trade,” it says.Information: 0207 602 2446 or www.marcialanyon.com

¯On 30 January 2012 Marcus McCallum’s third annual two-week sale will begin in its Hatton Garden showroom. Marcus has cut back on trade fair expenses to be able to offer existing and new customers excellent discounts during the sale. All freshwater pearls and beads will be reduced and there will be generous discounts on selected coloured stones and other stock. Knowing how difficult it can be to get into Hatton Garden or leave shops during the working day, Marcus’s office will be open until 7pm on the 1 and 8 February, although normal opening hours will be 9.30am to 5pm.Information: 0207 405 2169 or www.marcusmccallum.com

¯¯ “Proof that the trend for all things unique and personal is set to stay is the ever-growing popularity of our range of gorgeously wearable pieces made from real natural items covered in silver,” says The Silvery. “They are amazingly easy to sell as customers immediately love the brilliant selling point that no two pieces are identical and have all the quality appeal of a solid silver piece but at far more attractive prices. The range continues to prove as popular with those looking for an unusual gift as those who collect them for themselves.”Information: 01273 472 570 or www.thesilvery.co.uk

SELLINg62

I look at retail jewellery as having four equally important components: the product; the physical premises; the promotion of the business; and the personnel working within

the organisation. I specialise in one area, which is the personnel working within the organisation, and therefore this series of articles will focus on developing the salespeople, managers and owners into being the experts that the customers expect, and the professionals that people want to be working in the areas of salesmanship, customer service and the sales management of the process.

It is a known fact that as much as 60 per cent of a store’s business comes from 20 to 30 per cent of its customer base. Additionally, most stores are losing 25 to 30 per cent of their customer base every year. Maybe the customers go to your competition or the internet; have a change in economic conditions; reach an age where they are no longer buying jewellery but are actually getting rid of it; or maybe they simply pass away. The bottom line is that they are disappearing somewhere. Therefore, a successful jewellery business must constantly look to increase its customer base for now and well into the future. Referral and repeat business is the lifeline of all professional salespeople and jewellery businesses.

Building relationships with customers is key to the success of any retail jewellery business. The first step in securing repeat customers is establishing relationships with the customers that we already have coming into the store. Obviously a salesperson is not going to be friends with every customer coming into their store, however the customer should feel as if they have a friend in you, your store and/or your staff.

good relations

In the first of a new series of articles aiming to help you grow your jewellery store in terms of both sales and profits,

Brad Huisken of IAS Training considers the importance of relationship building

Author, trainer, consultant and speaker brad Huisken is president of IAS Training. He authored the book and his new book He developed the PmSA Relationship Selling Program, the PSmC Professional Sales management Course, the Train the Trainer Course, the mystery Shoppers Kit, and the Weekly Sales Training meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers. He and his staff of trained professionals also conduct in-house training and consulting all over the world on an ongoing basis. In addition he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. for a free subscription or more information on IAS Training, contact IAS Training on 001 303 936 9353, or

So how do we build relationships? The first thing you must remember is that this is a long process – a lifelong process. The selling relationship is built on trust, promises that are kept, and perceived value to the customer.

Just as in developing relationships in your personal life, the same holds true in developing relationships in your professional life. In your personal life if you meet someone who you want to develop a relationship with, the first step is to capture their name and to offer your name. I would suggest that you get the customer’s name through offering your own name.

I also want to get the customer to ask, or encourage me to follow up with them. The key to developing a relationship in which the customer encourages you to follow up with them is in capturing the customer’s name, address, phone number and email address, and getting the customer to ask you to call them. Once he or she gives you permission to make a follow-up phone call or contact, then the relationship has started to grow and you are on your way to being their personal jewellery sales professional.

If a customer leaves your store satisfied, they might tell two or three other people, whereas if a customer leaves your store dissatisfied, then they are likely to tell 10 or more people. It is vital that you are aware of the fact that everyone you sell to has friends and family, and if you take the time to treat the person you are selling to correctly, then the chances are that you will be the beneficiary of their repeat business and referrals as well. In short, remember that while you only sell to one person at a time, if you treat them well and satisfy their needs, other customers will follow.

I know that we cannot always have the best selection, location, advertising, displays etc – but we can always sell right.

Once the customer gives you permission

to make a fol low-up

phone cal l or contact , then

the relat ionship has started

to grow

INDUSTRy DATA64

PRICES • fIgURES • OUTLOOKMetal prices Oct 11 Nov 11 Dec 11 Change

Sterling silver (£/Kg) 596.71 633.89 619.92 Minus 2%

Gold (£/g) 34.17 35.34 35.65 Plus 1%

Palladium (£/g) 12.28 13.14 13.33 Plus 2%

Platinum (£/g) 31.05 32.68 31.52 Minus 4%

Rhodium (£/g) 33.78 33.75 32.92 Minus 3%

Iridium (£/g) 22.61 21.98 22.33 Plus 2%

Ruthenium (£/g) 3.23 2.63 2.43 Minus 8%

Scrap metal prices Oct 11 Nov 11 Dec 11 Change

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg) 560.26 595.17 582.06 Minus 2%

9ct Gold scrap (£/g) 12.36 12.79 12.90 Plus 1%




Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g) 25.07 26.39 25.45 Minus 4%Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.comAll prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices

Weight G/VVS G/SI J/VVS J/SI J/I1

0.05 Carat 1,780 979 1,228 890 783

0.10 Carat 1,709 1,091 1,648 977 732

0.25 Carat 2,762 1,526 2,308 1,297 885

0.50 Carat 7,523 3,393 4,794 2,950 2,508

0.75 Carat 9,258 5,555 6,053 4,130 3,276

1.00 Carat 16,344 8,653 10,902 7,005 4,532 The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy.

Compiled at 1st December 2011 / Dollar Exchange Rate 1.5727

Retail sales volume: October 2011During October 2011, retail sales volumes increased by 0.9 per cent, while the value of sales saw an increase of 5.4 per cent in comparison to the same time last year. Compared to last month, sales volumes saw an increase of 0.6 per cent and the value of sales increased by 0.7 per cent, a probable result of pre-Christmas promotions and sales. Non-store retailing between October 2010 and October 2011 increased by 11.7 per cent, providing 0.6 percentage points. Predominantly non-food stores increased by 0.1 per cent, providing a 0.1 percentage point. Non-specialised stores or department stores sales volumes increased by 2.3 per cent and household goods stores sales volumes increased by 0.3 per cent.The non-seasonally adjusted year-on-year sales data for all retail sales volume indicated that small stores with less than 100 employees performed better than large stores, with the former increasing by 5.3 per cent and the latter decreasing by 0.3 per cent.Approximately £26.8 billion was spent on retail goods in October 2011 – an increase from £25.4 billion in the same month last year.. Source: ONS

Oct Dec Feb Apr Jun Aug Oct2010 2011

Seasonally adjusted figures

Hallmark figures - Nov 2011

Nov 10 Nov 11 Variance %

Silver999 1,626 2,047 421 25.9958 1,072 337 -735 -68.6925 960,203 631,689 -328,514 -34.2800 68 29 -39 -57.4

962,969 634,102 -328,867 -34.2

Gold 999 21 18 -3 -14.3990 0 6 6 100.0916 26,990 20,289 -6,701 -24.8750 133,000 94,278 -38,722 -29.1585 27,914 5,811 -22,103 -79.2375 668,085 375,362 -292,723 -43.8

856,010 495,764 -360,246 -42.1

Platinum

999 67 9 -58 -86.6950 24,163 20,529 -3,634 -15.0900 63 49 -14 -22.2850 23 2 -21 -91.3

24,316 20,589 -3,727 -15.3

Palladium 999 - 0 0 0.0950 7,669 5,367 -2,302 -30.0500 7 170 163 2,328.6

7,676 5,537 -2,139 -27.9

Total 1,850,971 1,155,992 -694,979 -37.5

The total number of units hallmarked by the four UK assay offices was down again in November by 37.5 per cent, representing nearly 700,000 less units than November 2010. The total number of gold items hallmarked was down by 42 per cent; silver was down by 34.2 per cent; platinum down 15.3 per cent; and palladium down by 27.9 per cent.

Source: Birmingham Assay Office

INDUSTRy DATA 65

Platinum 2011 interim reviewDemand for platinum jewellery forecast to rise modestlyGross demand for platinum in the jewellery sector is forecast to increase by two per cent to 2.47 million ounces. Demand is expected to reach a two-year high, mainly as a result of higher levels of purchasing in China – the world’s largest market for platinum jewellery. Softer demand is forecast in the European market, while in Japan and North America, demand is expected to be robust. Elevated gold prices, and the parity with platinum, may help platinum gain market share in the bridal sector, although both metals face competition from alternatives.Platinum jewellery demand in China to be marginally higherDespite higher prices, purchasing of platinum by the jewellery industry in China is set to rise by 35,000 ounces to 1.69 million ounces this year, suggesting that manufacturers, retailers and ultimately consumers are adjusting to higher price levels. The recent price parity of gold and platinum has given something of a boost to platinum, which is seen as a good buy in comparison with gold. Overall this year, manufacturers report that the number of platinum pieces they produce has increased, although the weight of individual items has in many cases declined, in line with attempts to target particular price points in the market. Lower levels of recycling are set to result in a rise in net Chinese jewellery demand to 1.33 million ounces.Gross jewellery demand in Japan to be robustGross platinum demand in the Japanese jewellery industry is expected to remain fairly steady at 320,000 ounces this year. In the aftermath of the earthquake and tsunami in March 2011, more couples are getting married, temporarily reversing a long-term trend towards later and fewer marriages and stimulating purchases of platinum wedding bands as well as engagement rings. However, due to a continued trend towards lighter weight pieces in response to higher prices, gross platinum demand has remained almost flat. With higher levels of recycling, net jewellery demand in Japan is expected to be negative.North American jewellery demand to stay flatConsumption of platinum by the jewellery sector in North America is expected to remain flat in 2011 at 175,000 ounces. The platinum jewellery market is likely to be supported this year by strong growth in production by high-end manufacturers. Production by these manufacturers for the domestic market as well as exports has been impressive, although middle-market manufacturers report challenging conditions. As elsewhere, higher platinum prices have contributed to a trend towards lower weight pieces to meet key retail price points.Purchasing by the European jewellery industry to fallDue to higher prices and economic uncertainty, gross platinum demand by the European jewellery industry is forecast to weaken by 10,000 ounces to 165,000 ounces. Although lower priced alternative metals are being chosen for men’s wedding bands, platinum continues to maintain its share of the engagement ring and women’s wedding band market. The recent high price of gold also appears to have encouraged consumers to choose platinum pieces, rather than gold, for only a slightly higher price.Platinum jewellery recycling set to declineRecovery of platinum from the jewellery sector is set to decline by six per cent in 2011 to 690,000 ounces, mainly due to a reduction in recycling in China of 20 per cent from previously elevated levels. Growing sales of platinum jewellery in China are leading to less unsold retail stock being recycled, although recycling of old pieces by consumers is expected to remain constant. In Japan, the after-effects of the March disaster appear to have led many individuals to ‘de-clutter’ their homes and lives, resulting in higher recycling of old platinum jewellery.Purchasing of palladium by the industry to fallGross palladium demand from the jewellery sector is forecast to fall by 50,000 ounces in 2011 to 545,000 ounces. In China, the largest market for palladium jewellery, high prices have lowered consumer demand for a previously affordable metal and led some manufacturers to stop producing palladium jewellery. Higher metal prices are expected to keep demand flat in Europe, as lower weight pieces are manufactured to meet price points. In North America, a combination of higher prices and competition from cheaper alternatives has led to a softening of demand this year.Palladium jewellery demand to fall in ChinaGross demand for palladium in the jewellery sector in China is expected to decline in 2011, by 30,000 ounces to 330,000 ounces. During the first nine months of 2011, palladium prices were 41 per cent higher in local currency terms than in 2010. This has simultaneously lowered consumer demand for what was previously seen as an affordable precious metal, while also helping to stimulate recycling, thus lowering net demand.Gross palladium jewellery demand in Europe to remain flatPurchasing of palladium by the jewellery industry in Europe is expected to remain flat this year at 65,000 ounces, as higher metal prices encourage a trend towards lighter weight pieces. Some manufacturers have also begun to produce rings in lower-fineness alloys such as Pd500.Palladium demand in North America to declineGross demand for palladium in the jewellery sector in North America is expected to fall by 20,000 ounces to 45,000 ounces in 2011. As the price has increased this year, palladium’s positioning as a men’s jewellery metal has been increasingly challenged by non-precious alternatives. Palladium is also used to enhance the colour of white gold jewellery in some higher-end pieces, for which demand has been resilient.Japanese demand for palladium to remain firmDemand for palladium in Japan, where it is mainly used as an alloying agent in platinum jewellery, will remain robust at 75,000 ounces, as purchasing of platinum pieces holds up well.Recycling of palladium to increaseDriven by higher prices, recycling of palladium jewellery in China is forecast to more than double this year, returning 190,000 ounces of manufacturer and retail scrap. The increase in palladium recycling contrasts with platinum jewellery recycling in China, which is set to decline in 2011. It is also notable that the palladium being recycled in China is mainly unsold retailer and manufacturer inventory rather than metal from consumers. Total palladium jewellery recycling worldwide is set to rise to 210,000 ounces this year.

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FOCUS

JewelleryFOCUSNovember 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

Gold special issue: eye-catching gold jewellery designs for the new season X David Lamb of the World Gold Council shares his thoughts on the changing market

X Comment and advice on profiting from the still lucrative trade in scrap gold

Harmony preserving Omani Heritage

cha r mi ng el ega n ce

JewelleryFOCUS

DIRECTORy 67

BEADS AMBER JEWELLERY

ANTIQUE REPRODUCTION

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call now on 01206 767 797

Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YPTel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696 Email: [email protected]

Totally WholesaleBurhouse Beads is the UK’s largest wholesale supplier of gemstones, jewellery findings and components. Specialising in fresh water pearls and high quality bead strings. We also offer a full range of associated hardware and tools.

Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk

Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call Jewellery focus now on

01206 767 797

DIRECTORy68

CASTING

CASTING

CAD/CAM

BUREAU DE CHANGE

CASTINGS & FINDINGS

CUFFLINKS

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

COMPUTER SOFTWARE CHARMS

CLOCK DISTRIBUTORS

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01206 767 797

DIRECTORy 69

DIAMONDS

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E-COMMERCE

DIAMONDS

DIAMONDS

ENGRAVERS

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ENAMELLERS

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DIAMOND SETTINGS DIAMOND SETTINGS



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DIRECTORy70

GOLD & SILVER JEWELLERY

JEWELLERS TOOLS

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT GEMSTONES GEMSTONES GEMSTONES

DIRECTORy 71

Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call now on 01206 767 797

RESTRINGING

MASONIC JEWELLERY

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

PHOTOGRAPHIC EQUIPMENT

PHOTOGRAPHY

PLATINUM SPECIALISTS

PEARLS, CULTURED

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

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JEWELLERY REPAIRS

DIRECTORy72

TROPHIES & MEDALS SHOPFITTING SHOPFITTING

SIGNET RINGS

SILVER JEWELLERY

Watts Design, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4ENTel: 0844 5611932 or 01598 710215

Email: [email protected]

Full shop refurbishment serviceUnique hardwood points of sale

Fabulous lightingBespoke display cabinets

��

WEDDING RINGS

WATCH REPAIRS

bqwrolex specialist

www.bqwatches.com

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2566

Repair Services

We now specialise in the repair andrefurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

At BQ Watches wecan make it look

brand NEW

SCRAP PURCHASE

SECURITY

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PACKED IN COLOUR INSTRUCTION ENVELOPES

F O R R I N G S T H A T F I T

“Can you afford to leave one out of your mailing?”

www.multisizers.com Tel 01481 253244

WEDDING RINGS NOTICE BOARD RECRUITMENT

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DIRECTORy 73



01206 767 797

ontheVoice highstreetSIMON MILLERSHIP of Nova Silver, Norwich

Could you tell us a bit about the history of the business?We started the business in 2004. Initially we were located in a temporary rental unit within a shopping mall in our hometown of Norwich. From there we have moved into a permanent retail premises in Norwich, and have recently opened our second permanent store. At the same time we have been developing our own ranges including our popular Amber Art range, our Bemine semi-precious stones range and our Kitten Silver range, among others. The popularity of our own ranges in-store prompted us to launch our trade business in 2006, which we have grown. We are currently proud to include hundreds of independent retailers, multiple retailers, exclusive internet gift boutiques and huge internet retailers among our customers.

What services do you offer?In our retail stores we offer a myriad of extra services to our customers, including hand engraving, repairs, alterations and bespoke design. All of our full time staff are trained to a minimum of NVQ level 2 in retail and thus offer customers a great service as standard. Customers who come into our store can expect to benefit from our generous customer loyalty scheme, on-the-spot repair, jewellery cleaning and free gift-wrapping. We have trained silversmiths in each store and have an on-site workshop to offer a quick and competitive service to our customers. As we have these facilities available we can also offer them to our trade customers if they should need them.

How have you found the expansion to two stores?It has been a lot of hard work and a lot of stress, but has really been worth it! We spent a great deal of time selecting the right location, the right staff and the right brands. We have teamed our own brands with others such as Ice and Storm watches, Silverado, Cavendish French, LucyQ and Sonya Bennett to give the customers a great choice. We have found that the new store has been really successful with the watch brands, and so we are adding Ted Baker and Kenneth Cole to our portfolio.

yOUR VIEWS74

Do you have any other developments in the pipeline?For 2012 we will be concentrating on our trade business and our internet presence. We are exhibiting at Glasgow (Scotland’s Trade Fair, SECC, 22 to 24 January, stand D160) and Birmingham (Spring Fair NEC, 5 to 9 February, hall 18 stand G44), and will be unveiling our brand new show stand (fingers crossed it will be ready!).

How would you say the internet has affected jewellery retailers?We think that the internet is great for any business – we like to call it our third store. We consider our internet customers as being equally important as the customers who come into our stores, and have dedicated office staff to deal with any online queries. We have developed a great website that is really simple in design and really easy to use. The website also holds a trade catalogue so that our trade customers can easily log in and place an order in just a few clicks at trade prices. Through our own website and through third party sites, our internet presence has grown hugely over the last couple of years and we plan to continue with this.

What do you enjoy most about your job?There are loads of great things about our jobs that we love. We love the challenge of running the business and developing it. We also really love designing the jewellery and watching from the design stage, through to the manufacturing, and then seeing the finished items. Finally, and most importantly, we love to hear all the positive feedback from our customers telling us how good our service is and about the pleasure they get from wearing our jewellery!

What’s the biggest challenge you face on a day-to-day basis?Our biggest challenge currently seems to be keeping up with everything! With the opening of the new store and the expanding trade business, as well as having a lively three-year-old to look after, it leaves me with very little time. We have spent some time re-organising our backroom staff, giving additional training, but seem to be able to give great service while having the daily challenge of being really busy! In addition, we are mindful of the current financial constraints many people are facing, and the rising silver prices, so therefore another one of our biggest challenges at the moment is designing lovely jewellery with this in mind.

What are your plans for the future?In the immediate future we are looking forward to Glasgow and Birmingham for the trade shows in early 2012. And then going forward we are looking to bring a great stainless steel range and a costume jewellery range under the Nova Silver brand, and will be expanding our website to hold our full catalogue. We are not planning on opening any further retail shops in 2012, but you never know!

jewellery focus january 2012

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