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Tourism Special - March 2008 Printing: - 30 000 copies in the French version, - 20 000 in the English version, - 10 000 in the Spanish version.

The text and illustrations in this magazinecannot be reproduced without the permis-sion of the editor. Dépôt légal : 1er trimestre2008. N° ISSN : 1951-428X.

EDITION Pays du Grand Bergeracois43, boulevard Maine-de-Biran24100 Bergerac • Tél : 05 53 27 30 18contact@pays-de-bergerac.comwww.pays-de-bergerac.com

DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATION Serge FourcaudPrésident du Pays du Grand Bergeracois

EDITORIAL BOARDChristophe Cathus (Pays du Grand Bergeracois)

Marie-Cécile Grasseau and Pascal Dupouy (Office de Tourisme de Bergerac Pourpre)Patrice Bourgeix and Michel Couderc(Pays des Bastides et Cités médiévales)Marie-Pierre Maillet and Raymond Fleury (Pôle des Vignobles, Rivière et Coteaux)Gérard Lallemant

EDITORGérard LallemantArchicourse • 9, rue du Temple - 24500 EymetTél : 05 53 27 11 46 archicourse@wanadoo.fr

TRANSLATIONClin Bond for Archicourse

DESIGN AND TYPE-SETTING PRINTINGCréation LambertRoute du Maine - 24510 LalindeTél : 05 53 63 02 60contact@creationlambert.com

ARTISTIC DIRECTION François Le Brizault, Création Lambert

Acknowledgements .The editorial team thanks the firms, organisations, businesses, tourist officesand private individuals who have contributed to the success of this magazine.

Magazine partners:

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Front cover:A citadel by an ocean of vines: the Monbazillac chateau. Photo by “MAIRIE DE BERGERAC”

Insets, from top to bottom:The abbey church of Cadouin. - Photo : S. Vaissière - ACIR Compostelle“Nuit romane” par Philippe Cotten The Dordogne at Bergerac. - Photo: Mairie de BergeracFestival ‘Itinérance médiévale en vallée du Dropt’. - Photo: Gérard Lallemant

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From top to bottom

Montguyard church emerges from the vines.Seen from the Vélines side, the Dordogne is like a mirror.

Summer rambling near Eymet.Fine products from Bergerac country’s soil.

France Bleu Périgord is the press collaborator with the magazine “Pays de Bergerac”.

Thoughts on stonemasonryBastides, “news towns” of the Middle AgesRomanesque and Gothic Story • Life in a castle

River reverieA trip in four stages along the Dordognes

The vineyard sceneVineyard tourismZooming-in on Bergerac

Along the pathways The reward is at the end of the trailSix circuits in the Bergerac Country

Concerning flavoursThe market – a way of life

ExpressionsCulture in every senses!

Reflections on country-livingMap of the Bergerac region • Useful index

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Bastides, “new towns” of the Middle Ages Between 1141 and 1350, 400 ‘bastides’ were built inthe South-west of France. The period 1250-1320 wasthe most favourable to this extraordinary change, thatoccurred simultaneously at all levels whether urban,economic, political or social, and which gave rise tothe foundation of towns that were later to be namedas the “new towns” of the Middle Ages. These ‘bastides’were created by the joint wishes of the Kings ofEngland and France in order to increase theirinfluence over an important area where theDordogne and Dropt rivers played the parts of naturalborders between Périgord and Agenais. Beauregard-et-Bassac, Villefranche-de-Lonchat, Molières, Lalinde,Labastide-Monestier, Puyguilhem, Fonroque,Beaumont-du-Périgord, Monpazier, all these are ofEnglish origin. The sole French exception in the areais Eymet, built by Alphonse of Poitiers, the Count ofToulouse and brother of the saintly king Louis.The common denominator of these towns, built overseveral years is their plan in the shape of a draught-board where streets and lanes (the ‘carreyrous’)centre on the main square, its covered market and itshouses under arcades. This square was a place of activity,administration and trade from where the church wasexcluded; it was almost always built slightly to oneside, as if to show the reality of the separation of theChurch and the State. As for the rules of everydayliving, these were set, in a surprisingly democratic way,by the “charter of customs”. The ‘bastides’ thus provideus with the obvious proof that the middle ages, werenot always a black and backward period in history.

Romanesque and Gothic storyThe Bergerac Countryside boasts a great number ofchurches, chapels and abbeys born of the stronginfluence that religion exerted at the time...Romanesque and Gothic architecture, the perfectharmony of space and shadow of the former, flam-boyance and exuberance of light of the latter.A skilful mix of the two styles is to be found at Vélines,while at Montpeyroux there is a delicate ‘sainton-geaise’ print; at Beaumont an imposing fortified building,an admirable balance of proportions at Liorac; atMonbos charming modesty, proud dimensions atPaunat – overall a sense of beauty, with an infinitevariety of shapes.

Life in a castle If one admits that Périgord is indeed “the countryof a thousand and one castles”, then, without anyboasting, it is to a great extent thanks to BergeracCountryside!The castle of Biron consists of an extraordinaryassembly where medieval sobriety competes withthe elegance of Renaissance styles. Bridoiredemonstrates the same characteristics, as doesLanquais, a magnificient palace, historicallyextremely interesting because it is fully furnished.Not far from Villamblard, Montréal was a countrycastle and place of pilgrimage; from the originalconstruction (12th century) remains the doubledefensive enclosure dominating the pretty valleyof Crempse.Partly destroyed by fire in 1885, the castle ofMontaigne witnessed the birth and the death ofthat great writer from the Perigord, but the“Bookshop Tower”, the library where Michel deMontaigne wrote his Essais, was very fortunatelypreserved.Encircled by the famous vineyard of the samename, the castle of Monbazillac is Renaissancearchitecture that appears to have not yet definitivelycast aside the influence of the Middle Ages, it is asilhouette from a fairy tale. While offering anadmirable panoramic view overlooking Bergeracand the Dordogne, it houses a wine museum,and tells the story of Protestantism in our region. ‘Bastides’, churches and abbeys, fortresses, castlesand manor houses in the Bergerac Countryside,each one of these marvellous relics from the pastis a joy to visit.

On the road tothe abbeysDuring the journeywhich took them fromVézelay to Saint-Jacques-de- Compostel le , thepilgrims found welcomerest stops in BergeracCountry: churches,such as at Sigoulès andBergerac (the appro-priately-named Saint-Jacques), or largerbuildings. It was thusthat the Cistercian abbey of Cadouin (right) took in the pilgrimsin a church of a vibrant Romanesque austerity next tocloisters carved in pure flamboyant Gothic style. An archi-tectural shock!A few miles away, another abbey - also preserved byUNESCO as part of the World Heritage of Humanity – is thatof Saint-Avit-Sénieur; this has taken the shape of a fortress,as if to better protect the beautiful murals in its nave.

An invitation to go touringAmong the many architectural relics bequeathed to it, the Bergerac Countryside can legitimatelypride itself in housing truly authentic treasures, in particular, fortified towns (‘bastides’),fortresses, churches and abbeys that have defied time since the Middle Ages. White, grey ordisguised in yellow ochre, always magnificently well-built, our “old” stones invite you to anamazing and enthralling journey in the discovery of a truly exceptional heritage.

Founded in 1284 by Jean de Grailly on behalf of Edward I, King of England, the ‘bastide’

of Monpazier encapsulates, almost to perfection,all the characteristics of the “new towns”

of the Middle Ages. Miraculously preserved, it is considered, rightly, to be a model “bastide”.

Its classification as a “Great national site” since 1990, includes two nearby monuments,

the collegiate church at Capdrot and the castle of Biron.

The castle of Biron was the seat of the one of the baronies of Périgord — the three others were at Beynac, Bourdeilles and Mareuil.Built in the 12th century, the building was subjected to conversions and additions until the 18th century, hence this composite image, which magnificently reflects the long evolution of castle architecture.

Here and there, the heritage. With their spas, public baths and vast areas of mosaics (below right), the vestiges of a Gallo-Roman villaat Montcaret, dating from the beginning of our era, make this site one of most beautiful of its kind.Heritage by the waterside: the Lalinde canal, the mills of Rouzique and Larroque at Couze… Natural heritage of the Maxange grottoes (below left): a wonderful underground world…“Old Bergerac” tempts one to take a romantic stroll - visit its port on the Dordogne, the Saint-JacquesChurch, the Récollets’cloisters, the Tobacco or the Wineand Shipping museums, the narrow lanes and even a newstatue dedicated to Cyrano! Picturesque and friendly, res-tored with taste and common sense, this area deservesa stop-over.

Opposite, from top to bottom

Lanquais castle.The “Bookshop Tower” at the castle of Montaigne.The castle at Montreal looks down over the valley of Crempse.

Below

Maison Peyrarède housing the Tobaccomuseum in the “Old Bergerac”.

Página opuesta. Medallones desde arriba hacia abajo.

La iglesia de Paunat.Saint-Avit-Sénieur: la iglesia abacial.

Ligeramente separada de la plaza mayor, la iglesia fortificada de Beaumont-du-Périgord.

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{THOUGHTS ON STONEMASONRY}

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Top left - The Dordogne river lends itself to navigation, leisure pursuits, water sports : barge trips, fishing,

swimming, canoeing and rowing.

Top right - The old slipway at Le Fleix.

Centre - The Dordogne towards Limeuil

Opposite - The lock “stairway” at Tuilières.The mosaics at Montcaret.

Opposite page - The Dordogne at Bergerac, yesterday and today…

{RIVER REVERIE}

The river Dordognereally makesan effort!Wide, powerful and handsome, in no way timid, the river Dordogne loves to show itself, to be

approached – better still she invites you to follow her! So, let yourself be carried away on her ebbs

and flows to the rhythm of the barges that once upon a time went upstream as far as the

“High Country” or with the current down to the port of Bordeaux.

From Urval to Lamothe-Montravel, we offer you a voyage of four stages that will allow you to better

get to know this royal waterway, so rich in a natural heritage both economic and historic.

So set sail on the river of great expectations!

The natural DordogneFrom Urval to Mauzac •As it entersBergerac country at the village of Urval, proudof its fortified church and remarkable villageoven, the Dordogne widens and becomesmore languorous. Between Le Buisson-de-Cadouin and Lalinde its clear waters have car-ved the rocks so forming magnificent mean-ders bordered by cliffs : the loops (‘cingles’) ofLimeuil and Trémolat. In this grandiose coun-tryside with its majestic panoramas over theplains of Alles-sur-Dordogne and Calès, in thecrook of the two almost perfect river bends,fields of tobacco, corn, wheat or sunflowerform a patchwork of changing colours.At Limeuil, classified as one of the most beautifulvillages of France, the Dordogne is swollen bythe addition of the waters of the river Vézère.From the panoramic heights of the park, site ofan ancient fortified castle, one can admire theroofs and the streets of the village as they tumbledown towards the confluence, once a strategicport in times of river transport. Be prepared for a long stay at Trémolat, thetime to admire the cupolas and the murals inthe abbey-church before taking the picturesqueroute leading to the panorama of Rocamadou.At the foot of the cliffs, a quiet spot, the riverprovides a haven and cover for numerousfeathered friends: duck, heron, kite, kingfisher,cormorant, grebe and egret. Then we comeupon Mauzac’s vast stretch of water where theDordogne flows against a dam built at the begin-ning of the Xxth century – we can trace its historyin the boatman’s house at the end of the port.

The days of river transportFrom Mauzac to Bergerac • On the otherside of the port a lock marks the entrance ofthe canal lateral to the Dordogne. Built in themiddle of the XIXth century, this fifteen kilometrewaterway allowed the barges to reach Tuilièressafely by avoiding the fearsome rapids of theGrand Thoret, the Gratusse and thePesqueyroux. At high water time, both up anddownstream, sailed heavy loads of wood, grain,paper, iron and wine, all regional products, orsalt, sugar and spices from distant exotic parts.However, only a few decades after the canalwent into service, the railway replaced thewaterway, the elegant small craft gave way totrains and the bargees became railwaymen;it was a brutal end to a long period of traditionand adventure.

Now dormant, the canal reveals what was thenavigated Dordogne, thanks to a rambling trailwhich, leaving Mauzac, calls on the Lalinde bastide,the Port-de-Couze basin, and the port and thecanal bridge of Saint-Capraise-de-Lalindebefore reaching the Tuilières dam. It is here,thanks to an ingenious “stairway” of locks, thatthe canal joins the river. There is also anamazing lift reserved for migrating fish andinformation signs describing the history of thecanal and the barges.

In the heartof the Bergerac country From Bergerac to Port-Sainte-Foy • The historyof Bergerac cannot be separated from theDordogne river because, while the town evolvedaround its chateau – today no longer standing –its heart was firmly centred on the port; a bigheart palpitating to the rhythm of the squadronsof barges that tied up there. A few steps away thestreets of the old town are an invitation to strollamong beautiful buildings and historical sitessuch as the Récollets cloister, the house ofBergerac wines, Saint-Jacques’ church, thetobacco or the water transport museums. You canchoose a barge trip on the river, another pleasantway of discovering the town. As for the towpath,today it affords a walk along the river banks as faras the Bergerac dam, then on to reach Prigonrieuxand even to push on further downstream.Tucked away in the river bend that carries itsname, the village of Le Fleix holds more witnessto riverboat activity: notably a slipway and somewood-faced houses certain of which were builtusing planks and pieces of wooden hulls takenfrom scrapped barges.

Vines and historyFrom Port-Sainte-Foy and Lamothe-Montravel • Facing the bastide of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, Port-Sainte-Foy harbours the museum ofDordogne wines and its waterway; it tells of theriver, the Bergerac wine trade during the time ofthe barges and its export of wines to England andthe Netherlands. From there the Dordognecontinues its way through hillsides quartered byvines until Montcaret, where the remains and preciousmosaics of a Gallo-Roman villa are preserved.In order to get to the Tour de Montaigne onemust leave the river valley and follow one of itstributaries, the Lidoire, which at one time formedthe frontier between Protestants and Catholics.The philosopher Michel Eyquem de Montaignelived in this fine dwelling, where he wrote hisfamous ‘Essais’, and where he died.Although the battle of the 17th July 1453 (whichenabled the French army to finally boot theEnglish out of their kingdom) gave its name tothe Grironde town of Castillon-la-Bataille, in factthe contest took place in the commune ofLamothe-Montravel. A stele on the banks of theDordogne marks the place where the chief of theAnglo-Gascon section, Sir John Talbot, met hisend during the fight. It reminds us also that inthose ancient times the English harvested thegrape in the Aquitaine!

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Men, landscapes, flavours...Well before this type of tourism became theenthusiasm that we have come to know today,the wine makers of Bergerac Country hadalready understood the part they were to playin the development of the region. They thustook up various activities, sometimes extendingthese to creating lodgings and bed and breakfastson their estates, so as to better receive theirvisitors.Undulating lines of vines, impeccable alignments,terraced cultivation, low stone walls,grassy slopes, sometimes a mossytiled roof half hidden behind ahawthorn hedge. These quietand harmonious landscapes callfor a stroll alongside the vines andto meet those who cultivate them, to discover the people, the landscapes, theflavours. We invite you to start this stroll on theright bank of the Dordogne, in a part ofBergerac that has been so tastefully restored.

The ‘Maison des Vins’ Ideally situated in the heart of the old city,‘la Maison des Vins’ (the House of Wine) occupiesa splendid piece of 17th century architecture,notably including the charming Récollets’ cloisternamed after the Franciscan beggar monks whobuilt a convent there on the orders of LouisXIII. Acquired in 1954 by the ConseilInterprofessional des Vins de la Région deBergerac (CIVRB), this setting has become amajor site for receiving visitors; a strategic location,where one can prepare one’s itinerary for a visitof the vineyards. It is also a place of learningwhere one can fol low the history of thecultivation of the vine on a mural fresco,

The ‘Route des Vins’ A walk in the heart of the vines that crisscross thehills and valleys of Bergerac Country, on bothbanks of the Dordogne, a self-indulgent stroll,meeting the men and women who make thewines of Bergerac, and who like to share theirpassion. On the tourist map of the ‘Route desVins’, a vital accessory for this visit, are reproduced140 estates (‘domaines’, ‘clos’ and ‘châteaux’) ofwine makers united under a charter of quality.These are all delightful places, but without a fixeditinerary because the best guide will be, withoutdoubt, your own curiosity!

‘Destination Vignobles’This operation, initiated by the RegionalCouncil of Aquitaine, has taken, in BergeracCountry, the form of a network functioningon the principle of a “reciprocal referral” ofvisitors. Launched in 2005, ‘DestinationVignobles’ (Destination Vineyards) alreadycounts a hundred members on our territory:wine makers of course, but also hoteliers,restaurateurs,tourist sites, owners of lodgings and B & Bs,Tourist Offices... All recognise one anotherunder the dual emblem of quality andfriendliness, and all are committed to act insuch a way that each visitor sets off with oneor two good addresses in his pocket, to visitbefore the end of his stay.

“Turn-key” breaksOver the last few years, the type of holidayhas greatly changed, and speedily. This hasled to the development of regional tourism,the multiplication and splitting of breakswith, as a result, a reduction in their duration.With this in mind, the ‘Office de Tourismede Bergerac Pourpre’ (see page 14) promotesweekends and short breaks organisedaround the theme of wine, wine and gas-tronomy, wine and heritage, wine and golf. Easily accessible by internet, integrating“turn-key” services representative of spe-cificities of the region, these touristproducts are aimed at groups as well asprivate individuals..

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Vineyard tourism Since ancient times, wine makers have carved the landscapes of Bergerac.

They are men and women impassioned and in love with their traditions,

but also resolutely turned towards the future, and to whom we shall often refer in these columns.

The soil is rich in its variety, very much like its history, and the soft and sunny climate is favourable

to the growth of the vine and of the great wines. These are authentic and attractive, result from the

best grape varieties and are classified in five colours and thirteen ‘appellations’.

The art of wine-making is a major asset for Bergerac Country — this has naturally resulted in

establishing quality wine tourism.

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Grape types• Red wines:Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Malbec• White wines: Sauvignon, Sémillon, Muscadelle

Zooming-in on Bergerac 5 colours, 13 ‘appellations’ AOC.

• Rosé: Bergerac rosé • Red: Bergerac rouge - Côtes de Bergerac rouge - Pécharmant - Montravel rouge • Dry white: Bergerac Blanc sec - Montravel• Moelleux white: Côtes de Bergerac blanc - Côtes de Montravel

Haut Montravel - Rosette• Sweet white: Monbazillac - Saussignac

The Récollets’ cloister is the attractive location wherethe CIVRB, the organisation in charge of the promotion

of Bergerac wines, is located.Maison des vins, quai Salvette - Place Cayla

24100 Bergerac - Tél : 05 53 63 57 55contact@vins-bergerac.fr • www.vins-bergerac.fr

or discover the complexity of the productionof wine from a film shown in the superbarched vault. It is a magic place where one cansharpen one’s five senses in order to betterunderstand the mysteries of wine tasting —the moment has come to go to the wine barand become acquainted with the productsprocessed by the vine growers that stretchalong the ‘Route des Vins’!

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Monbazillac Chateau: a silhouette straight out of a fairy tale, encircled byvineyards where a famous sweet white wine is produced.

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{THE VINEYARD SCENE} {TENDENCIA VIÑEDO}

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Between plains and woodsIn a transition zone between the Dordogne

valley and the Issigeac plateau, this walk of 11 kmfrom Saint-Aubin-de-Lanquais to Faux crossesa marked variety of scenery.Leaving Saint-Aubin we come upon tree grovesand thick hedges, spared from their and theditches’ previous removal; they are full ofwildlife, and the number of animals they shelteris an obvious testament as to their usefulness.Then, in the descent towards the cool valley ofthe Couillou, the path crosses a splendidcluster of oak trees that make us think of thejays (opposite left), true forest gardeners, whoeach year bury thousands of acorns and socontribute to the perpetuation of the oak.After that the path climbs alongside a luxuriantmeadow — your passing will very likely bewelcomed by some plump blond cows! Finally, at Verdon at the end of an amazing“tunnel of vegetation” a vast panorama opensup onto the Dordogne valley; a view that callsfor a photograph to be taken, before finishingthe circuit by way of the plains, copses andacres of vines that the handsome Saint-Martinharrier glides over.

And below flows a riverLeaving Mauzac port this 9 km circular tour

leads first to the old ‘’Theatre’’ farm and its drystone setting before rejoining the edge of thecliff. Lean over, but not too far, and you’ll seethe glorious panorama of the majesticDordogne river 100 metres below.This rocky area provides an impregnable shelterfor animals: buzzards, black kites and largecrows, stone marten, badgers and bats. Onemight even surprise a “genette”, and, of coursea fox or a weasel – all that’s missing is a wolf!The emblematic peregrine falcon reigns here,the fastest bird in the world, one that takesitself for a jet plane as it swoops at 300 kphonto the back of a woodpigeon! As for the river,it harbours a number of birds both migratoryand indigenous. Near Millac you’ll be surprised by an abruptchange in the vegetation: within the matter ofa few hundred metres the typically Atlantic-type plant varieties (oak, hornbeam, ash,maple, chestnut) give way to the nobleMediterranean species: the green oak and theMontpellier maple.

A castle and vineyardsAlthough quite short (8 km), this stroll over

Appellation Saussignac territory calls for several stops.There is so much to enjoy: panoramic views over thehillsides, valleys and copses, a windmill, an elegantdovecot and some beautiful old dwellings. There isalso a medieval chateau of truly noble aspect which, asone heads for Gageac-Rouillac, emerges little-by-littlefrom the ranks of vines. So we can now say that thereward is indeed at the end of the trail!

The reward , is at the end of the trailBreathe in the scent of the earth after a rain shower;

listen out for the sounds of the forest; decipher

the language of the plants… Hiking in the Bergerac

countryside not only allows you to fully enjoy these

simple pleasures but it also enables you to discover an

infinite variety of scenery, of which plains, cliffs,

valleys, hillsides, forests, vineyards and rivers are the

principal components.

Come and appreciate our region in all its diversity;

discover it by following these six, among many

routes. You’ll be amply rewarded if you follow our

hiking trails.

{ALONG THE PATHWAYS }

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The meanderingDropt

From Eymet’s bastide to Serres-et-Monguyard runs a 12 km trailfollowing the Dropt — that tranquiland shaded meandering river.The trees along the water’sedge (the ‘ripisylve’), consistingmainly of alder, ash and willow,

serve many purposes: water purifying, flood limitation,strengthening the banks, acting as a wind-break.It also plays a valuable ecological role in providingnourishment and shelter for wildlife. In all, the Droptis a vital part of the countryside’s make-up.In the Middle Ages the river separated regions overwhich the kings of France and England were gaily ateach other’s throats during three centuries. We areleft with bastides, churches and chateaux from thisturbulent époque, also several bridges of whichEymet’s is a pretty example in its verdant setting.

Top - The majestic Dordogne

Centre, top to bottom - The wooded riverside of the Dropt towards Eymet - The GR6 lake, in La Bessède forest - A humid area near Monclard.

Right - The proud château of Gageac-Rouillac.

Opposite page, insets below, left to right - Black kites - Young pine martens - Stone curlew, bird of the plains, called the ‘Turlu’ because of its strange nocturnal cry - Young pelegrinfalcon (nearly 70 were seen in flight in the Dordogne last year)The ‘genette’, a rare carnivore - An eagle-falcon’s meal-time.

Each piece of woodland has its ownspecificities linked to the soil, to theplant-life structure and to the particulararea in which it is found. One’s unders-tanding is much enhanced by visiting twoof them – veritable biological storehousesfor the region’s natural heritage. So,discreetly please, penetrate the forest tofind the haunts of the stag and the wildboar, the birds of prey and the woodpeckers.

This 8 km circular walk around thecharming village of Monclard is just madefor lovers of pretty sunken lanes. Here,the oak, hornbeam and chestnut trees -three the most numerous – are goodneighbours of the maritime pine.Traces of an old iron mine - as indicatedon one of the many signboards - thestreams and the wash-houses, the hamletof St. Georges and its Roman church(where Rita, patron saint of lost causes isfigured) are all points of interest to

appreciate before returning to Monclard.Its chateau is watched over, or so it issaid, by the spirits of Rabelais, Montaigneand Bourdeilles.

Starting from Bouillac, a 10 km circuitpasses through the biggest forest in thearea, the only large national estate, called‘the Royal Forest of the Bessède’, andbelonging to the Perigord network:‘Espaces Naturels Sensibles’. Maritime pines swaying in the wind,ancient groves of oaks and chestnuts, theclearings, the lines of young maples andpines, all these combine to create a veri-table mosaic, a guarantee of beauty andlovely scenes. There is one such: a littlepond beside the GR6, un-named on themap, its still waters reflect the cyclamen-coloured cumulus clouds; a fox lurks onthe bank, the reed beds flame-colouredin the setting sun – such preciousmoments.

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Note • All the documents useful for your ramblesare available at our Tourist Offices

and ‘Syndicats d’Initiative’

The forest – a biological storehouse

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Commotion and traditionColours, flavours, odours, quiet commotion...Fruit and vegetables, poultry, wines, flowers,meats and tinned food, clothing and tools,such are the traditional markets of BergeracCountry. One can find anything: good localfoods, the useful, the nice but superfluous, theessential or the indispensable.Unavoidably, the life of the town is governedby the rhythm of the weekly market, attractingthe regulars, the curious, those in a hurry andthe not-so rushed, the chatterbox and thetaciturn, as well as the tourists. Whether atBeaumont, Le Buisson, La Force, Villamblardor Villefranche-de-Lonchat, the market spiritand function prevail: it is a vital event, devotedto a large extent to good food and the pleasuresof the table. Often superb, always appropriate,only the decor changes: a little medieval villagesquare, in the middle of a ‘bastide’, a shadedfairground, or a Romanesque church portico.

Catering for all tastesTwice a week, the market at Bergerac encirclesthe church of Notre-Dame, so let yourself betaken in by its size and its diversity, its coloursand perfumes, its glorious traditions. You can also loiter around the night markets ofCadouin, Saint-Méard-de-Gurçon, Issigeacor Eymet. These events are highly successful:a beautiful summer evening, stall-holdersnicely set up, several choices of good food,add a dose of conviviality and sometimes a bitof music — and there you have it, a simple formula.

At Biron or Pressignac-Vicq, the far-mers’ markets honor the products ofmen and women who are dedicatedto their work. Here, sold directly andexclusively to the public, one findsthe best products of farms in BergeracCountry: walnuts, sweet chestnuts, wine,strawberries, melons, foie gras...In August and within the framework of‘Itinérance in the valley of the Dropt’, Eymet,Issigeac and Cadouin stage Medieval marketswhere any good knight in search of a feastwill be able to enjoy roasts, hippocras,‘pâstés’, round wafers and other pastrydelights, and to treat himself to the latest andfashionable two-handed sword, or haverepaired his armour, dented at a recenttournament.The market stalls of the local producers(‘Marchés de Producteurs de Pays’) onlystock fresh, reliable, authentic and honestgoods prepared, cultivated, or cooked bythose who sell them.The Bergerac region has for a long time been“organic conscious” as can be seen wherethe goods are produced (bread, meats, wine,

fruit and vegetables honey), in thespecialist shops and at the marketsand fairs, notably Bergerac, Molièresand Fonroque.The only truffle market in the area is

at Sainte-Alvère on Monday mornings,December through February. There

the goddess Tuber melanosporum is laid outfor the experts to examine on tables coveredwith white cloths. There is somethingmagical about these anthracite-coloured,grainy-surfaced little balls with their inimicallypowerful and bewitching perfume.A renowned “cèpes” market is held everyAutumn in Monpazier’s bastide hall, wherejust the sight of a well-filled “bouyricous”(traditional basket) is enough to start astampede! All around, under the ancient rooftimbers in an atmosphere of musty damphumus, there are loud voices, twitchingnoses and hard examining stares.

The market – a way of lifeIn Bergerac Countr y, gastronomy and l i fe

rhyme with markets. Here it is where, in a

friendly environment and following never-changing

customs, anyone can unearth the best local

produce. Traditional or themed, these markets

are very successful, due to the quality of the

goods, the prestige of the sites, and always to

the friendly atmosphere. Ja

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Night market at Eymet — a prestigious site and friendly atmosphere. Opposite page

Top - Festival ‘Itinérance médiévale en vallée du Dropt’.Top insets, left to right

‘Théâtre de la Gargouille’ - ‘La Petite Flambe’ – ‘Melkior Théâtre’

Centre - ‘Grain d’Automne’ festival..Below - Music in Bergerac – ‘Théâtre de la Gargouille’

Jazz in Bergerac.

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{CONCERNING FLAVOURS} {EXPRESSIONS}

A region and its cultureTo see, feel, savour, hear, touch. To laugh, cry, wonder.To learn, understand, arouse, be aroused, imagine,express oneself, discover and, above all, to share. Cultureis accessible and multifaceted in the Bergerac country.

Eclectics and qualityConcert halls, cultural centres, libraries and media centres...Exhibitions, colloquies and conferences, evenings out, workshops,guided walks… Songs, music — all kinds of music! Theatre, dance orcinema… With its mark of dynamism and eclectics, its seal of quality,Bergerac’s cultural life is at once past, present and future. She opensher doors to all, country or townsfolk, from her area or elsewhere, daytrippers or long-stay tourists – she is a social link. A wide rangingvariety of shows holds to these principles — here are some examples.For nearly three months the Printemps des Bastides promises intenseactivity at Bergerac and in all the bastides and medieval villages.Set up by the ‘Conseil Général de la Dordogne’, these inter-culturaloccasions also aim to foster appreciation of the exceptionally finearchitectural heritage.It is on the same principle that the organisation and presentation,but on a more specialised level, the Itinérance médiévale en valléedu Dropt festival has been developed. This summer, as well as at

several sites in the Lot-et-Garonne and the Gironde, three villagesin the ‘bastide country’ invite the visitor to delve into the heartof the Middle Ages; these are Eymet, Cadouin (a UNESCO WorldHeritage site) and Issigeac.As the Bergerac area is almost synonymous with the riverDordogne, it is quite natural that events should be held withinthat context. Scheduled to take place in mid-September, incollaboration with their Gironde partners, the Journées de la Rivièrewill unite river users who will put the accent on navigation,the environment, river heritage, and on gastronomy.Finally there is the Grain d’Automne festival, created by the ‘Pôletouristique des Vignobles’ with the aim of linking westBergerac cultural associations around a common thememarrying culture and wine. Within the concept of a wineframework, concerts, theatre shows, exhibitions andfestive shows will be available to the public during thegrape harvest.

Cultural lifeNumerous festivals and happenings run throughthe cultural life of the area – take your pick!

Printemps des Bastides • Inter-culturalmeetings • April to June.Festival du Cirque • Cirque Shows, workshops, exhibitions • Vélines in March.Mai des Arts • Arts Paintings, visual artsBergerac in May.Festival d’art Faune et Flore • Eymet, Puyguilhem,Sigoulès, Cunèges and Saussignac • May or June.Festival Jazz Pourpre • Bergerac in May and June.Festival interceltique • Concerts, workshopsIssigeac in June.Festival des Ploucs • Country bumpkin festival!Music at Razac-de-Saussignac in July.Les mercredis du jazz • Open-air concertsin Bergerac • Wednesdays during the summer.Les Tradigordines • Traditional music and danceat Lalinde in July.Eté musical en Bergerac • Bergerac Classical,jazz or ballet music at Biron, Cadouin, Monpazierand Bergerac • July to September. Itinérance médiévale en vallée du DroptAugust in Eymet, Cadouin and Issigeac. Also at nineother sites in the Lot-et-Garonne and the Gironde.Musique en sol • Classical concerts at Paunat andLimeuil in August.L’autre Festival • Music, circus, workshops, theatre…Fonroque in August.Les Journées de la Rivière • SeptemberGrain d’Automne • Wine and Culture • Septemberand October.Les Rencontres Buissonnières • BuissonnièresCinema, debate, shows • Le Buisson in February.

For all cultural informationwww.pays-de-bergerac.com • www.bergerac-tourisme.com

www.pays-des-bastides.com

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You will be able to obtain from the Touristand Information Offices of Bergerac Country— see list hereafter — all information necessaryfor organising your stay in our region:accomodation, places to eat, leisure activities,markets, visits, cultural events, the heritage... We have however considered it useful to mentionhere some of the main castles, sites, monuments,gardens and museums in Bergerac Country.

• OT de Bergerac Pourpre*** ☎ 05 53 57 03 11tourisme-bergerac@aquinet.tm.fr

• OT du Pays Beaumontois** ☎ 05 53 22 39 12ot.beaumont@perigord.tm.fr

• OT de Monpazier**☎ 05 53 22 68 59ot.monpazier@perigord.tm.fr

• OT du Pays d’Eymet*☎ 05 53 23 74 95ot.eymet@perigord.tm.fr

• OT Le Buisson-Cadouin-Limeuil* ☎ 05 53 22 06 09ot.buissoncadouin@perigord.tm.fr

• OT du Pays Lindois*☎ 05 53 61 08 55ot.lalinde@perigord.tm.fr

• OT d’Issigeac*☎ 05 53 58 79 62 si.issigeac@perigord.tm.fr

• Service Municipal du Tourismede Sainte-Alvère☎ 05 53 73 55 85

office-tourisme@ville-sainte-alvere.fr• SI de Montaigne – Gurson – La Force

☎ 05 53 73 29 62

si.montaigne@perigord.tm.fr• SI de Saussignac

☎ 05 53 22 49 11 • SI de Sigoulès

☎ 05 53 58 48 16

s.i.desigoules@wanadoo.fr• SI de Trémolat

☎ 05 53 22 89 33

syndicatdetremolat2@orange.fr• SI du Pays de Villamblard

☎ 05 53 82 26 28

• PAYS DU GRAND BERGERACOIS www.pays-de-bergerac.com

• OFFICE DE TOURISMEDE BERGERAC POURPRE www.bergerac-tourisme.com

• PAYS DES BASTIDES ET CITÉS MÉDIÉVALESwww.pays-des-bastides.com

• COMITÉ DÉPARTEMENTALDU TOURISME DE LA DORDOGNEwww.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

• SNCF• ☎ 36 35 – www.sncf.com

Lignes TER Bordeaux-Sarlat et Périgueux-Agen

• AÉROPORT DE BERGERAC / DORDOGNE-PÉRIGORD• ☎ 05 53 22 25 25

www.bergerac.aeroport.fr• Flybe www.flybe.comBergerac / Londres-Gatwick, Edimbourg, Birmingham, Exeter, Leeds Bradford, Southampton.

• Ryanair www.ryanair.comBergerac / Londres-Stansted, Bristol, East Midlands, Liverpool, Bruxelles-Charleroi.

• Transavia www.transavia.comBergerac / Amsterdam

• Château de Biron☎ 05 53 63 13 39

• Château de Lanquais☎ 05 53 61 24 24

• Château de Monbazillac)☎ 05 53 61 52 52

• Château de Montréal (Issac)☎ 05 53 81 11 03

• Cloître de Cadouin☎ 05 53 63 36 28

• Abbaye de Saint-Avit-Sénieur☎ 05 53 57 52 64

• Grottes de Maxange (Le Buisson-de-Cadouin) ☎ 05 53 23 42 80

• Maison des Vins de Bergerac et Cloîtredes Récollets (Bergerac) ☎ 05 53 63 57 55

• Site archéologique de Montcaret ☎ 05 53 58 50 18

• Tour Historique de Montaigne(Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne)

☎ 05 53 58 63 93 • Site Néolithique de Sigoniac

(Molières) ☎ 05 53 63 15 26

• Parc aux Bambous du Périgord(Le Buisson-de-Cadouin) ☎ 05 53 22 01 03

• Jardins de Sardy (Vélines) ☎ 05 53 27 51 45• Parc Panoramique de Limeuil

☎ 05 53 57 52 64• Parc et Jardin du Château de la Bourlie

(Urval) ☎ 05 53 22 06 00

• Atelier des Bastides (Monpazier)

☎ 05 53 27 09 25• Écomusée du Papier - La Rouzique

(Couze-et-Saint-Front) ☎ 05 53 24 36 16• Musée Automobile (Pomport)

☎ 05 53 58 37 46• Musée des Fossiles (Villamblard)

☎ 05 53 81 90 37• Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires

(Villefranche-de-Lonchat) ☎ 05 53 80 77 25• Musée de la Batellerie (Port-Sainte-Foy)

☎ 05 53 61 30 50• Musée Costi (Bergerac) ☎ 05 53 58 80 87• Musée d’Intérêt National du Tabac

(Bergerac) ☎ 05 53 63 04 13• Musée du Vin et de la Batellerie (Bergerac)

☎ 05 53 57 80 92

TOURIST OFFICES AND ‘SYNDICATS D’INITIATIVE’

TOURISM ON INTERNET

TOURIST INFORMATION

CASTELSMUSEUMS

SITES AND MONUMENTS

GARDENS

TRANSPORTS

{INFORMACIONES PRÁCTICAS}