itinerary china: yunnan provincefieldguides.com/itineraries/yun15-itin.pdf · cultural &...

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ITINERARY CHINA: YUNNAN PROVINCE

November 6-28, 2015 Cultural & Historical Beijing Pre-tour Extension

November 2-7, 2015

A scene from Lijiang, where weʼll spend the last few days of the tour. Photo by Björn Anderson / iGoTerra.com.

We include here information for those interested in the 2015 Field Guides China: Yunnan Province tour: ⎯ a general introduction to the tour ⎯ a description of the birding areas to be visited on the tour ⎯ an abbreviated daily itinerary with some indication of the nature of each dayʼs birding outings

Those who register for the tour will be sent this additional material: ⎯ a detailed information bulletin with important logistical information and answers to questions regarding accommodations, air arrangements, clothing, currency, customs and immigration, documents, health precautions, and personal items ⎯ a reference list ⎯ a Field Guides checklist for preparing for and keeping track of the birds we see on the tour ⎯ after the conclusion of the tour, a list of birds seen on the tour Yunnan, Chinaʼs richest province, is home to many eastern Himalayan specialties, yet is rarely visited by Western birders. Beautiful scenery and surprisingly good accommodations and infrastructure add to the enjoyment of this region where the Himalayan and Southeast Asian avifaunas converge.

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China's southwestern-most province, Yunnan, was long neglected as a destination by traveling birders—for the excellent reason that you couldnʼt get there! Restrictions on access have now been relaxed so that some of the least disturbed areas near the Burma border can be visited. That the avian delights of November in Yunnan in many ways surpass those of the more obvious spring months of March/April is known first-hand to no more than a dozen intrepid souls. Anyone susceptible to the allure of Thailand and the eastern Himalayas will look wistfully at the birding map of the region and wonder about the large blur linking them: at 394,000 square kms/152,000 square miles, Yunnan, Chinaʼs eighth largest province, is nearly the size of huge California. However, west of the mighty Salween River steadily improving infrastructure has made accessible a variety of habitats, from forests between 1,000-9,200 feet (300-2,800m) above sea level to paddies and scrub hosting winter visitors and migrants still on passage. Most of this trip will be spent here following an itinerary which, drawing upon our local guide Jesper Hornskovʼs birding experience in the area, has been carefully planned to maximize field time in the impressive Gaoligong Mountains, in history-burdened Tengchong, and out of lively, jade-trading Ruili: with close to 500 species recorded in the vicinity to date, this border town is undoubtedly the best birding base in all of China. We will have time to properly search for the specialties of these secretive forests before concluding our travels with a quick visit to picturesque Lijiang, home to the endemic Yunnan Nuthatch and a World Heritage Site, east of the Salween biological divide. Part of the charm of this scenically arresting, tucked-away and culturally still-authentic corner of the world is that it has yet to be discovered by western tourism (as recently as his January/February 2010 tour there, Jesper saw just one other Westerner in the course of an 18 day trip!). Nonetheless, roads are far better than one might suppose, our accommodations will be comfortable throughout (double rooms with private toilet and hot shower) and the hospitable climate ensures a year-round supply of fresh, palatable food. Weʼll be expecting a species total of 375-400 on the tour, and anyone opting to arrive a few days early will have the chance of adding some Palearctic ultra-heavyweights at Beijing ahead of the main trip on our Cultural & Historical Beijing Pre-tour Extension! Jesper Hornskov, our expert local guide for the tour, speaks fluent Chinese (and English!) and has lived in China and guided more than 80 birdwatching tours there over nearly two decades, including over 30 trips to Yunnan. In November 2015 Field Guides will be sending along as a co-leader on this new tour our own Dave Stejskal, who has co-led the most recent three Field Guides China tours with Jesper and has guided numerous tours for Field Guides throughout Southeast Asia. About the Physical Requirements & Pace: The perfect itinerary is a rare specimen, but we are quite pleased with this version of Yunnan. In a three-week period, we will visit a variety of habitats, from forests between 1,000-9,200 feet (300-2,800m) above sea level to paddies and scrub hosting winter visitors and migrants still on passage. With three to six-night stays at three prime birding bases, hotel changes (and attendant repacking!) are reduced while we still manage to visit an impressive variety of habitats. The climate is subtropical, with temperatures ranging from warm to distinctly cool, depending on the altitude; by November rain should be at a minimum as the wet season peters out through October. Yunnan links Thailand with the remarkably diverse Eastern Himalayas, providing an excellent introduction to the pleasures of birding in East Asia, and this is the general intent of our tour here. Each site that we plan to visit is rich in widespread Asian birds, and weʼll try to see as many of these as we can. But we should also see a number of species that are rarely or never seen in Thailand or Bhutan. In each of the areas visited, there are usually a few special birds of fairly restricted range that may take some extra effort to see (the monotypic-family Spotted Elachura (Wren-Babbler) at Ruili, the exquisite Collared Treepie in the Yingjiang forests, Chevron-breasted (Wedge-billed) Babbler—the very embodiment of dense tangle unpredictability—at Gaoligongshan, and the delightful Yunnan Nuthatch at Lijiang are good examples). Most days weʼll seek to maximize time spent in the field at the best time(s) of the day, with early starts (usually pre-dawn with breakfast mostly in the field), a mid-morning break in the field, lunches either in the field or at local restaurants or back at the hotel, and returns to our accommodations ideally (but not invariably) with plenty of time to clean up before our typically delicious Chinese dinner (most people come away feeling that itʼs not for nothing that Chinese cuisine is so famous) and list session. For this tour, you need to be in good condition physically, capable of a fair amount of walking, including walking uphill. There will be no ʻtrekkingʼ as such; emphasis will be on seeing birds, not on covering as many miles as possible on foot. Nonetheless, Yunnanʼs mountainous terrain simply does not allow easy trips: while some birding is along roads, we certainly will put in some time walking undulating-to-uneven, sometimes slippery, tracks with the occasional fairly steep section, as well as circling tree falls and crossing logs. This, in combination with moderate altitude, means that determination will on several occasions be required to reach/cover the habitat. In open terrain we could end up walking up to a mile or so along dirt levees that are quite uneven and sometimes interrupted by small water channels. Even


3 commuting from our rooms to and from the restaurants at several of our lodgings requires walking on the grounds and/or climbing some steep stairs (no elevators, mostly!). In short, as walking is such an integral part of this tour, it is only suitable for people who are steady on their feet, with a good sense of balance, and with good stamina. The long, full days require us to be on our feet for several hours at a time and capable of being active, with only short breaks, from dawn until near dusk, on a daily basis. Our guides can advise exactly which of the hikes will be most demanding, and thereʼs always an option to stay back with the drivers and/or crew. For less fit folks, this would entail missing quite a few efforts during the course of this three-week tour. Overall, this tour is not all-out strenuous, but it does require steady application of “get up and go” and a readiness to adapt to variable terrain. Though all possible efforts will be made to stick to the itinerary, this may not always be possible (or indeed desirable) due to circumstances beyond our control: a degree of flexibility is thus required, and participants must be adventurous and willing to put up with the rigors and inconveniencies inherent in travel in fairly remote and culturally alien areas. If you are uncertain about whether this tour is a good match for your abilities, please donʼt hesitate to contact our office; if they cannot directly answer your queries, they will put you in touch with your guide for the tour.

About the Birding Areas

Ruili—With over 500 species recorded in the vicinity to date, lively Ruili must be the best birdwatching base in all of China, yet few people have ventured here. Within easy reach of the town are sprawling evergreen forests, paddies, and scrub, and with a bit of luck we may add a species or two to the already long area list. On the whole the avifauna is reminiscent of northern Thailand's, but many species which are rare or (for winter visitors) not annual there are quite common at Ruili, and there is a more noticeable Sino-Himalayan element as well. Mountain Bamboo-Partridge, Asian House-Martin, Scarlet Minivet, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Black-backed Forktail (added to the Chinese bird list here at Ruili in 1992 by the hard-walking Danish pioneer, J. H. Christensen), Red-whiskered and Red-vented bulbuls, Siberian Rubythroat,

Pied Bushchat, Puff-throated Babbler, the sought-after Rufous-necked Laughingthrush, Chinese Hwamei, Dusky, Yellow-browed, Greenish, and ex-Golden-spectacled (two or three taxa) warblers, Striated Grassbird, Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Black-throated Sunbird, Little Bunting, Common Rosefinch, and Chestnut-tailed Starling are all among species likely to be encountered on our first visit to forest edge habitat. Weʼll be sure to have a try for the little-known Collared Myna, perhaps the most interesting of open-country species on offer. Yingjiang and Nabang—Weʼll thoroughly cover the surviving forests west of Yingjiang to the very border with Burma near the town of Nabang. Weʼll concentrate on the lower slopes, mainly birding between 1000-4500 feet (c300-1350m) in evergreen, mixed, and bamboo forest but will also spend time in more open habitat along the river. Habitat in this area continues to be menaced by human activity. (The improved roads that allow us access mean that cash cropping is now increasingly viable, resulting in loss of comparatively bird-friendly rice paddies to nearly birdless but profitable banana plantations.) Some poaching continues to this day (despite the core area's supposed reserve status), and on the mammal front we'll be lucky to see anything but squirrels—these, however, may include both the cute Five-striped and the impressive Black Giant squirrels. The forests that remain that weʼll cover here in our nearly three days of birding still


4 thrive with birds, from the exquisite Collared Treepie and Red-tailed Laughingthrush to the furtive and tiny Black-throated Parrotbill and ornate Rufous-faced Warbler. The list of potential rarities here is enough of a reason to visit: the magnificently weird Ibisbill, in its own monotypic family, has been seen recently along the river that forms the border between Yunnan and neighboring Myanmar, and a few pairs of the shy Short-tailed Scimitar-Babbler inhabit the dense undergrowth of the ridgetop ravines. (The recently described race here and in nearby Burma is quite disjunct from populations to the east in Southeast Asia and may represent a distinct species, the Naung Mung Scimitar-Babbler.) Tengchong—The ideal place to ʻtake a dayʼ during a birding visit to Yunnan: our main site, a hill covered in mainly secondary/replanted forest and mostly overgrown tea plantations is close to our hotel (potentially allowing us to take a rest-and-recharge midday break) and has a drivable track nearly to the top. There are plenty of birds, and many of them are easy to see. Some of them are LDJʼs (Little Dull Jobs), but they are birds, too, and within reason we are an equal-opportunity bird-finding company. Among our targets during our short stay here are the lovely Red-billed Leiothrix, the secretive Silver and Lady Amherstʼs pheasants (both difficult, but present), Maroon-backed Accentor, Red-tailed Minla, and the charming Pygmy Cupwing (Wren-Babbler)—one of just five species in Pnoepyga, now considered by taxonomists to be a full bird family. Gaoligongshan Reserve—The dramatic Gaoligong Mountains rise up just to the west of the Salween (Nujiang) River bio-geographic divide, beckoning visiting birders. Bamboo, stunted ridgetop vegetation, mature evergreen forest, overgrown stream gullies, and cultivation-edge scrub comprise the habitats available to us in the impressive Gaoligongshan. Before heading into the forest we will at least on one morning give the birds a chance to come to us by waiting around on an east-facing vantage point. As the first rays of sun hit the forest edge, things are likely to look hectic as new birds present themselves for extended viewing at close range; usually, many of them stick around and we will be in no hurry to move on, preferring to make the most of this easy introduction to one of the great wilderness areas of continental Asia. During the course of our five days of birding in this magnificent range, we hope to encounter the likes of Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Himalayan Bluetail (the blue-browed Himalayan form is now regarded as a valid species distinct from Red-flanked Bluetail), the superb Beautiful Sibia, the highly specialized and much sought Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Chevron-breasted Babbler (Wedge-billed Wren-Babbler), and yet another shot at the monotypic Spotted Elachura (Wren-Babbler), and the fancy Fire-tailed Sunbird. Lijiang—On the edge of Lijiang, a locally important and formerly isolated town originally inhabited almost exclusively by ethnically very distinct Naxis, is the supremely attractive Black Dragon Pool park, a wooded enclave on the edge of the now rather denuded valley. As such it is generally good for birds, being home to a number of residents and attracting migrants from near and far; it is, however, the adjacent relict pines which will be our focus of attention as this is where we will expect to see the endemic Yunnan Nuthatch—the more patchily distributed, rare Giant Nuthatch was formerly also present but now seems to have disappeared. Scarcer birds seen at various times of the year on previous visits include Black-bibbed and Rufous-vented tits, Rufous-breasted Accentor, the lovely White-throated Redstart, Scaly (Whiteʼs) and Chinese thrushes, Giant and Moustached laughingthrushes, Black-headed Sibia (whose far-carrying, melancholy song often dominates the dawn chorus), Hodgsonʼs Treecreeper, Tibetan Serin (Siskin), himalayana Red Crossbill, and the distinctive local race of Eurasian Nutcracker.

Beautiful Sibia photographed by Ian Robinson.


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Itinerary for China: Yunnan Province Days 1-2, Fri-Sat, 6-7 Nov. Departure from US; arrival in Beijing. Most flight schedules will depart the US mid-day on Day 1 and arrive in Beijing mid-afternoon on Day 2. Upon arrival, you should be met by a representative from our hotel and escorted to our nearby hotel in Beijing; please refer to the instructions sent to you from our office regarding transport to our Beijing hotel. Time permitting, weʼll explore the grounds of our hotel with hopes of seeing our first Azure-winged Magpies or a few fall migrants before our first meal together at a nearby restaurant. Night of Day 2 in Beijing. Day 3, Sun, 8 Nov. Morning birding near Beijing; afternoon flight to Ruili, Yunnan Province. Our flight schedule to Ruili, unknown at this time, will determine our activities for this day. As now planned, after an early breakfast at our hotel in Beijing, weʼll make a relatively short drive out of the city with our bags in tow to get into some of the remaining habitat in the hills on the outskirts of town. The remnant forest and foothill scrub of this area harbor a few Chinese endemics or near-endemics and should prove to be an excellent introduction to the wealth of birds on this tour. We might come across the likes of a flock of endearing Vinous-throated Parrotbills, or Chinese endemics and near-endemics such as Beijing Babbler (White-browed Chinese Warbler), Père Davidʼs Laughingthrush, or Yellow-bellied Tit. Lunch will likely be at the airport before our planned afternoon flight to Ruili on the Myanmar border. After being met by our bus and local escort, weʼll make the drive to our hotel in the small town of Ruili, hopefully with enough light remaining in the day to get some Yunnan birds under our belts. Night in Ruili, Yunnan. Days 4-8, Mon-Fri, 9-13 Nov. Ruili area; Southwest Yunnan Province. Five whole days and part of a sixth will be spent in the field out of Ruili, mainly in the forests near town. Walking quietly along the trails, we'll see successive mixed flocks of woodpeckers, babblers, warblers, flycatchers, and sunbirds alternating with opportunities to stalk skulkers, watch raptors soaring, or simply wait in a promising spot by a stream, near a bamboo thicket, or under a fruiting tree. We should see most of the following: Oriental Honey-buzzard, Crested Goshawk, Speckled Wood-Pigeon, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Blue-throated Barbet, Gray-headed and Gray-capped woodpeckers, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, the colorful Long-tailed and Short-billed minivets, Large Woodshrike, White-throated Bulbul, Eyebrowed and Black-breasted thrushes, Red-billed Scimitar-, Golden, Gray-throated, and Chestnut-capped babblers, White-crested, both Lesser and Greater Necklaced, Black-throated, and White-browed laughingthrushes, Silver-eared Mesia, Rusty-capped Fulvetta, Striated Yuhina, White-bellied Erpornis (Yuhina), Gray-headed Parrotbill, the skulky Gray-bellied Tesia, Pale-footed Bush-, Pallas's Leaf, and Blyth's Leaf warblers, Rufescent and Gray-breasted prinias, Rufous-gorgeted, the minute Little Pied, Pale Blue-, Hill Blue-, and Verditer flycatchers, Large Niltava, Black-naped Monarch, the attractive Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Humeʼs (Brown-throated) Treecreeper, Japanese White-eye, Maroon Oriole, and Bronzed Drongo. Also present, though in lower densities, are: Hill and Rufous-throated partridges, Silver Pheasant, Red Junglefowl, Thick-billed Pigeon, Greater Coucal, Red-headed Trogon, Coppersmith Barbet, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Greater Flameback, Silver-breasted Broadbill, the rarely seen Rusty-naped Pitta, Flavescent Bulbul, Asian Fairy-bluebird, Burmese Shrike, White-bellied Redstart, White-tailed Robin, Spotted Elachura (Wren-Babbler; a particularly high-value target now that it has been unequivocally shown to represent a monotypic family—“It could be argued that the phylogenetic distinctness of Elachuridae warrants recognition also at the rank of superfamily […]”: Alstrom et al. (2014)!), the superb Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Collared (White-hooded) Babbler, Rufous-backed Sibia, Pale-billed (Lesser Rufous-headed) and White-breasted (Greater Rufous-headed) parrotbills, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Small Niltava, Purple Sunbird, and Common Green-Magpie. On our several days in this area (and throughout this tour), weʼll find ourselves taking breakfast in the field

A little Red-billed Scimitar-Babbler. Photo by Ian Robinson.


6 on most mornings, and some days weʼll partake in a picnic lunch to maximize our time in the field in this productive and poorly known region. Paddies and other open, roadside habitats in this, in effect, Southeast Asian part of China are home to egrets (mainly Little and Cattle but also a few Great and Intermediate), Black-shouldered Kite, White-breasted Waterhen, Pied, Common, and White-throated kingfishers, Oriental Skylark, Eastern Yellow- and Citrine wagtails, Richard's and Oriental pipits, Long-tailed Shrike, Siberian Stonechat, Plain Prinia, Common Tailorbird, White-rumped and Scaly-breasted munias, and Black Drongo. A watershed slightly farther afield than the average 30 minutes commute from our hotel invariably impresses: the sheer quality of the birds present and the good views so many of them afford (photographers and digiscopers take note!). Among the birds so far not recorded elsewhere in the Ruili area are Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Mountain Imperial-Pigeon, Golden Bush-Robin, Green Cochoa, Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Blue-winged Laughingthrush, Himalayan Cutia, Slaty-bellied Tesia, and Gray-cheeked Warbler. Undoubtedly we will have a fair chance of adding a goodie or two. Nights in Ruili.

A patchwork of habitats near Ruili, an area where we could see Rufous-necked Laughingthrush. Photo by guide Jesper Hornskov.

Day 9, Sat, 14 Nov. Morning birding in Ruili area; drive to Yingjiang. After a morning mop-up in the Ruili area, weʼll load our luggage into our bus for the drive to Yingjiang farther to the north, stopping to bird where we can before arriving at our hotel for the night. Night in Yingjiang. Days 10-11, Sun-Mon, 15-16 Nov. Yingjiang/Nabang area birding. After an overnight in Yingjiang we'll drive about one-and-a-half hours to the top of the road leading to Nabang to arrive at our first birding site by daybreak, spending the morning here before driving down to the small town and moving in. For a couple of nights weʼll be based on the very border of Myanmar in the town of Nabang and will make a point of venturing forth from our—by local standards—upmarket hotel to take in the scenes on the market streets leading down to the border bridge. (During an exploratory visit, Jesperʼs group was among the very first guests, managing to book rooms even before the official opening date!) Weʼll make sure to divide our time fairly equally between the subtly different habitat zones but will target our efforts in order to maximize chances of species likely to be encountered only here. Doing so, we are likely to make genuine contributions to the patchy knowledge of bird distribution on the Burma/Yunnan border. As far as can be discovered, prior to Jesperʼs January 2004 visit, no Western birder/ornithologist had visited this area for at least half a century. And despite the obvious potential, of the relatively few Chinese academic ornithologists who had undertaken fieldwork since the end of the civil war in 1949, apparently only one had found the time to pay a very brief visit. Among the birds noted in the general area in January 2004 were Red Junglefowl, Crested Goshawk, Emerald Dove, Pin-tailed Pigeon, Red-breasted Parakeet, Crested Treeswift, Red-headed Trogon, Long-tailed Broadbill, Sultan Tit, Striated Swallow, Black-crested and Gray-eyed bulbuls, Chinese and Yellow-vented leaf warblers, Bianchiʼs, Broad-billed, and Rufous-faced warblers, Red-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Streaked Wren-Babbler, White-crested, Spot-breasted, White-


7 browed, and Blue-winged laughingthrushes, good numbers of Scarlet (Red)-faced Liocichla, Spectacled Barwing, Red-tailed Minla, Common Hill and Golden-crested mynas, White-browed Shortwing, White-tailed Robin, Rufous-gorgeted and Sapphire flycatchers, Small Niltava, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Little Spiderhunter, and Spot-winged Grosbeak. Subsequent visits have added Kalij and Gray Peacock-pheasants, White-cheeked Partridge, Mandarin Duck, Rufous-bellied Eagle, the attractive River Lapwing, White-vented Needletail, Indian Roller, Crested Kingfisher, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Wreathed and Oriental Pied- hornbills, Pale-headed Woodpecker, Wire-tailed Swallow, Gray-bellied Tesia, Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Greater Necklaced and Black-throated laughingthrushes, Pale-billed (Lesser Rufous-headed) and Gray-headed parrotbills, the restricted-range Collared Myna, Vinous-breasted and Asian Pied starlings, Black-backed and White-crowned forktails, Baya Weaver, and the rather smart Scarlet Finch. We might chance upon Pale-capped and Yellow-footed pigeons, Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl, Brown Fish-Owl, White-bellied Woodpecker, Buff-breasted, Spot-throated, and Spot-necked babblers, White-necked Laughingthrush, White-spectacled Warbler, Pale-chinned Flycatcher, or Beautiful Nuthatch, all known from old records or from adjacent northern Burma, or Collared Falconet, Alexandrine Parakeet, Blue-eared Barbet, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, or Blue-winged Leafbird—all outside their published range but recorded recently. Nights in Nabang. Day 12, Tue, 17 Nov. Morning birding near Nabang; afternoon transfer to Tengchong. Weʼll have the morning to catch up with anything in the area that we may have missed before we again pack our things and head to the northeast. This evening will find us in lovely Tengchong. A visit to the nearby river upon our arrival may yield Ruddy Shelduck, Great Cormorant, Black-shouldered Kite, River Lapwing, Little Ringed Plover, Common Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Temminckʼs Stint, Small Pratincole, the magnificent River Tern, and both White-throated and Pied kingfishers. Night in Tengchong. Day 13, Wed, 18 Nov. Tengchong birding all day. Tengchong is the ideal place to take a day; a wooded hill—our main site—is just over five minutes away from our hotel, there are plenty of birds, and many of them are easy to see. Expected species are Oriental Turtle-Dove, Eurasian Hoopoe, Gray-capped and Great Spotted woodpeckers, Large Cuckooshrike, Long-tailed Minivet, Gray-backed Shrike, Slender-billed Oriole, the vocal Ashy Drongo, Red-billed Blue-Magpie, Green-backed and Black-throated tits, Brown-breasted Bulbul, assorted Phylloscopus warblers, Bianchiʼs Warbler, Black-streaked (Spot-breasted) Scimitar-Babbler, White-browed Laughingthrush, Blythʼs (White-browed) Shrike-Babbler, Blue-winged Minla, the taxonomically-more-interesting-than-hitherto-assumed Gray-cheeked Fulvetta (now Yunnan Fulvetta here), Brown-winged Parrotbill, Japanese White-eye, Chestnut-vented (Naga) Nuthatch, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Scaly (Whiteʼs) and Black-breasted thrushes, Himalayan Bluetail, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Gray Bushchat, Russet Sparrow, Gouldʼs Sunbird, Olive-backed Pipit, Common Rosefinch, and Little Bunting. Also present, but trickier, are Mountain Bamboo-Partridge, Besra, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Brown Wood-Owl, Fire-capped Tit, Brownish-flanked Bush- and Yellow-streaked warblers, Chinese Babax, Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Black-headed Sibia, Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Siberian Rubythroat, White-tailed Robin, Large Niltava, Tibetan Serin (Siskin), and Yellow-throated Bunting. Night in Tengchong. Day 14, Thu, 19 Nov. Morning birding near Tengchong; drive to Gaoligongshan Reserve. The evening will find us having transferred to the Gaoligongshan Reserve after spending an additional morning enjoying local birding at Tengchong. Night near Gaoligongshan Reserve. Days 15-19, Fri-Tue, 20-24 Nov. Gaoligongshan Reserve. Weʼll have five full days to cover the varied habitats and accessible elevations found in this dramatic north-to-south oriented mountain range west of the Salween River divide. Among the commonly encountered species are Great and Golden-throated barbets, Bay Woodpecker (we are likely to get a few “heard-onlies” before we actually see one!), Olive-backed Pipit, Gray-chinned Minivet, Crested Finchbill, Mountain and Black bulbuls, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush, Black-streaked (Spot-breasted) and Streak-breasted scimitar-babblers, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Blythʼs (White-browed) Shrike-babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Blue-winged Minla, Rufous-winged and Yunnan (Gray-cheeked) fulvettas, Whiskered and Rufous-vented yuhinas, Buff-barred, Lemon-rumped, Ashy-throated, and Davisonʼs (White-tailed) Leaf warblers, Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher, the exotic-looking Yellow-bellied Fairy- and White-throated fantails, Black-throated, Green-backed, Yellow-cheeked, and the obscurely marked Yellow-browed tits, the buzzing Fire-breasted (or Buff-bellied) Flowerpecker, Gouldʼs and Green-tailed sunbirds, Chestnut-flanked White-eye, and Ashy Drongo. We have a fair chance of seeing a Besra either seeking to take advantage of the abundance of prey or display-flighting over our vantage point. We may have to work a bit harder for species such as the magnificent Mountain Hawk- & Black eagles, Speckled Wood- and Wedge-tailed pigeons, Brown Wood-Owl (dawn hoots may indicate in which direction to search: one showed


8 magnificently at its day roost in December 2003), Greater Yellownape, Gray Treepie, White-browed Bush-Robin, Little, Spotted, and Slaty-backed forktails, Blue Whistling-, Long-tailed, and Chestnut thrushes, Gray-bellied (Long-tailed) Wren-Babbler, Rufous-capped Babbler, Black-eared and Clicking (Chestnut-fronted) shrike-babblers, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Golden-breasted and Streak-throated (the local race sometimes split as Manipur Fulvetta) fulvettas, Black-throated Parrotbill, Chestnut-crowned, Broad-billed, and Black-faced warblers, and White-tailed Nuthatch. Sit-and-wait tactics can be employed with often considerable success as the movements of mixed feeding flocks bring birds into view. Encounters with some widespread species are likely to surpass those at Tengchong—such is birding. Depending on our luck, we might also see a number of the scarcer or downright rare inhabitants of these secretive forests—among them Temminck's Tragopan, Koklass, Silver, and Humeʼs pheasants, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Gould's Shortwing, Blue-fronted Robin, Scaly-breasted Cupwing (Wren-Babbler), Scaly Laughingthrush, the superb Black-headed Shrike-babbler, Himalayan Cutia, Yellow-throated Fulvetta, Brown Bullfinch, and the vocal but secretive Yellow-billed Blue-Magpie. Nights near Gaoligongshan Reserve. Day 20, Wed, 25 Nov. Morning in Gaoligongshan Area; drive to Lijiang. We should have time to spend part of the morning pursuing anything we feel we have missed so far before we hit the road one last time for the drive to scenic Lijiang to the northeast. Weʼll plan on a restaurant lunch today as we work our way through the cities of Baoshan and Dali before arriving in the evening at our hotel in Lijiang. Night in Lijiang. Day 21, Thu, 26 Nov. Lijiang area all day. We have all day today to explore this beautiful World Heritage site in search of the endemic Yunnan Nuthatch in the remnant pines. Ensuring an enjoyable morning is a fine supporting cast: Gray-headed Woodpecker, Eurasian Crag-Martin, Long-tailed Minivet, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Blue-fronted and Plumbeous Redstarts, Gray Bushchat, Naumann's Thrush, Spot-breasted and Streak-breasted scimitar-babblers, the often inquisitive endemic Rufous-tailed Babbler (Moupinia), Chinese Babax, Elliotʼs Laughingthrush, Spectacled and Rusty-capped Fulvettas, White-collared Yuhina, Buff-throated, Yellow-streaked, and ʻEasternʼ Lemon-rumped Leaf warblers, White-throated Fantail, three species of long-tailed tits, Green-backed Tit, Black-headed Greenfinch, and Godlewski's Bunting. Several additional species of Phylloscopus warblers may appear, perhaps even the recently (re-) described Chinese Leaf Warbler. Scarcer species to look for at this time of the year include the superb Black-breasted Thrush and Dark-rumped Rosefinch. After lunch we should be able to fit in an afternoon visit to a nearby lake. With shotguns now banned, the wildfowl at Lijiang are much more numerous as well as less wary than 15 years ago; among the species we can expect are Graylag Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Eastern Spot-billed Duck (= Chinese Spotbill), Green-winged (Common) Teal, Falcated Duck, Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Red-crested Pochard, Ferruginous Duck, and Common Merganser. Up to about 80 Common Cranes have been recorded here at this season and in November 2002 Jesper was lucky enough to find them accompanied by a stray Demoiselle, apparently a provincial first and much more of a surprise than a Black-necked Crane would have been. Night in Lijiang. Day 22, Fri, 27 Nov. Morning birding near Lijiang; afternoon flight to Beijing. We may not be able to resist returning to the delightful park before our flight to Beijing. Gazing across the lake at the towering and proudly unclimbed 18,000 foot (5,500m) Jade Dragon Mountain, the eastern-most outlier of the Himalayas, is well worth the time; the grand scenery

A pair of Whiskered Yuhina photographed by Ian Robinson.


9 (equal to the very best of the Rocky Mountains in the opinion of some) which with its snowpeak and a glacier crowning the pine-bristling ridges easily matches anything the Giant Panda reserves of neighboring Sichuan have to offer. Weʼll have a delicious farewell dinner in Beijing near our hotel this evening before we bid Jesper adieu. Night in Beijing. Day 23, Sat, 28 Nov. Departure for the US. Our flight home departs Beijing this morning. Cultural & Historical Beijing Pre-tour Extension with Jesper Hornskov Days 1-2, Mon-Tue, 2-3 Nov. Departure from U.S. and arrival in Beijing. Most flight schedules will depart the US mid-day on Day 1 and arrive in Beijing mid-afternoon on Day 2. Upon arrival, you will be met by a representative from our hotel and escorted to our nearby hotel in Beijing; please refer to the instructions sent to you from our office regarding transport to our Beijing hotel. Time permitting, weʼll explore the grounds of our hotel with hopes of seeing our first Azure-winged Magpies or a few fall migrants before our first meal together at a nearby restaurant. Night of Day 2 in Beijing. Days 3-6, Wed-Sat, 4-7 November. This extension begins after breakfast at our hotel this morning. The extension will cover the top sights of Chinaʼs capital while not neglecting the birding potential of late autumn, when many Siberian species are still coming through on passage and some local residents are more active than would be the case in summer. The order in which we visit these sites during our stay will be determined by your guide at the time of the extension. During our four days weʼll expect to cover: Hutongs—Beijingʼs traditional courtyard houses set on narrow lanes have been protected in several areas, and weʼll enjoy a leisurely stroll thatʼll give us an idea of what the city was like before twenty-plus years of double-digit economic growth changed China forever. Enterprising locals have ensured that this is a great place to pick up presents or souvenirs from cozy little shops. Forbidden City—Off-limits to the people for centuries, visitors are now allowed to walk through the emperorʼs palace. A superb experience, if a bit crowded on weekends. Wangfujing—Very much a place of the present, Beijingʼs traditional central commercial street seems to embody what China aspires to be: a place of throbbing success and economic progress. Inside the shiny, towering buildings, even the toilets are immaculate, and anything you could possibly want is available…as are 10,000 things no one could possibly want! In contrast to the metropolitan malls are several dignified shops with a 100 years of history: you can choose between silk by the meter or finely tailored clothing, Chinese delicacies such as smoked Manchurian sausages or a variety of Beijing fruit candies, or you may be tempted to pick up a book or two on aspects of traditional Chinese culture such as holistic medicine, taichi exercise, or the ancient Dao belief system from the Foreign Languages Book Store. OR you can opt to sit down for a while at an open-air refreshment joint to indulge in some serious people watching. Great Wall—Built at a bankrupting cost and ultimately failing to protect The Middle Kingdom from the barbarian menace, this impressive 3000kms-long structure has to be seen. Wild Duck Lake—Weʼll aim to visit this somewhat out-of-the-way reserve in connection with our outing to the Great Wall. At this time of year, ducks (sometimes including the Critically Endangered Baerʼs Pochard), geese, and birds-of-prey, as well as some passerines can make for a rewarding outing. Panjiayuan Market—Subject to interest and time constraints, we may fit in a visit to this flea and antiques market. Look out for jars labeled “made in 500 BC” and artificially aged bronze figurines! Summer Palace—Starting early from our hotel, weʼll do a picnic breakfast as part of our stroll about the attractive and frequently birdy grounds of the beautifully landscaped gardens. Lama Temple—Protected by special decree from the ravages of “anti-tradition” movements such as the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), this large, delightful temple is now seeing an influx of new worshippers and nowhere in Beijing is


10 people-watching better combined with seeing one of the crown jewels of Asian culture. Temple of Heaven—Situated in a vast park and open to the public, this impressive temple is where Chinaʼs emperors performed complicated, strict rites every spring aimed at ensuring good harvests. Acrobat show—Renowned throughout the world for their skill and endurance, Chinese acrobats from around the country visit the capital to perform a must-see, colorful show of jaw-dropping feats developed from an age-old repertoire. Beijing Duck banquet—We couldnʼt pass up this chance to enjoy a world-conquering delicacy “in its native habitat,” could we? On the evening of Day 6 (November 7), weʼll join those arriving for the full tour for dinner. Dinner and lodging tonight is included in the main tour fee.

About Your Guides Dave Stejskalʼs love of birds and birding began in 1969 at the age of nine near his childhood home of Phoenix. After teenage years consumed by birding and basketball, he went on to graduate with a degree in biology from the University of Arizona in Tucson, the desert city he and his wife, Julie Hecimovich, call home. Dave was co-editor for the Southwest Region report in American Birds/Audubon Field Notes for nearly 12 years, has served for many years on the Arizona Bird Records Committee, and has a solid reputation as one of the outstanding field birders in the Southwest and elsewhere. Dave is particularly skilled at identifying birds by their songs and calls and is eager to share his knowledge with others. His love of guiding professional birding tours started with Field Guides in 1985, and his 300+ tours since that time have taken him north to arctic Alaska, south to Tierra del Fuego (guiding tours in nearly every country in between), to Madagascar, and across the Pacific to Southeast Asia, New Guinea, and Australia, and his enthusiasm for finding and watching birds has proven to be contagious. Dave has guided numerous tours to Asia for Field Guides in the past nineteen years and has co-led our three most recent China tours with Jesper Hornskov. Visit http://fieldguides.com/guides for Daveʼs complete tour schedule; just click on his photo. Born in 1963 in Denmark, Jesper Hornskov began birding in 1975 at the age of twelve. He almost immediately became interested in the study of migration, which kept him busy travelling in Europe. In 1980, when his wanderlust set in, he took several extended jaunts to Israel, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, India and Nepal, and the Philippines, all of several months duration and all mostly done before leaving high school! Before arriving in China in 1987, he had also birded in Australia, Papua New Guinea, and Hong Kong. China captured his heart (literally, since this is where he met his wife and his wanderlust was somewhat sated), and he has lived there continuously since 1988, leading more than 80 birdwatching trips of up to a month's duration during that time for many individuals and private groups, as well as a number of commercial bird tour companies. Jesper holds the record for the number of species seen in China, including over 360 species within five kilometers of his apartment in Beidaihe where he moved in the autumn of 1997. He has made some thirty-five visits to Yunnan over the last fifteen years, both guiding groups in this seldom-visited province and also conducting numerous scouting expeditions. Jesper speaks Danish, English, daily-use Chinese, and a fair bit of Swedish and Norwegian for those of you from Minnesota.

Financial Information FEE: $9275 (includes all flights within China) EXTENSION: $1550 (with at least 6 participants; we may operate with less with a small party supplement) AIRFARE: Please check with your tour manager for the best flights from your home to Beijing. DEPOSIT: $925 per person FINAL PAYMENT DUE: July 9, 2015 SINGLE SUPPLEMENT (Optional): $900 (Main Tour); $375 (Extension) LIMIT: 12


11

Other Things You Need to Know TOUR MANAGER: The manager for this tour is Maggie Carpenter. Maggie will be happy to assist you in preparing for the tour. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to call her! ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD: Accommodations at Beijing, Ruili, Yingjiang, Nabang, Tengchong, and Lijinag all have modern facilities with western-style private bathrooms. Our lodging at the Gaoligongshan Reserve will have private rooms/bath for the vast majority of the group, but weʼll likely have a few rooms there with shared facilities. They are the best available in the area and are simple, clean, and comfortable. All meals and tea are provided throughout the tour. We will mostly have breakfasts and lunches in the field—provisions will be purchased locally—to maximize time spent in the field (on some occasions we will need to carry what we need to keep ourselves going into the afternoon). The main meal of the day will be in the evening at a restaurant attached to our hotel/hostel or close by. Weʼll make a point of eating well—most people come away with an appreciation for why Chinese cuisine is so famous—but expect some meals to be simple, if both tasty and nourishing. DOCUMENTS: A current passport is necessary for US citizens to enter China. In addition, US citizens will need a visa to enter China. When you register for the tour, our office will need a copy of the title page of your passport and will forward you a visa application form with instructions. If you are not a US citizen, please check with the Chinese consulate nearest you for entry requirements. Information about consulates and entry requirements is generally available online or you can contact us and we will be happy to look this up for you. Passports should have an adequate number of blank pages for the entire journey. Some countries require a blank page for their stamp and as a precaution it is best to have one blank page per country you will visit or transit. AIR ARRANGEMENTS: Please check with your tour manager for the best flights from your home to Beijing. Airfare for the round-trip flight from the US to Beijing is not included in the tour fee, but all flights within China are included. Field Guides is a full service travel agency and your tour manager will be happy to assist you with flights to join this tour. Field Guides does not charge a service fee for these services to clients booking a tour. However, we understand that tech-savvy clients often prefer to shop online or that you may wish to use mileage to purchase tickets. Regardless of which method you choose, your tour manager will be happy to provide assistance regarding ticket prices and schedules, along with extra hotel nights as needed. Please be sure to check with your tour manager prior to purchasing your ticket to make sure the flights you have chosen will work well with the tour itinerary and that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate. Once purchased, most airline tickets are non-refundable and carry a penalty to change. Field Guides cannot be responsible for these fees. Also, it is imperative that we receive a copy of your comprehensive flight itinerary—including any and all flights not covered in the tour fee—so that we may track you in the event of missed connections, delays, or other mishaps. LUGGAGE: Please be aware that many airlines have recently modified their luggage policies and are charging additional fees for checked bags. Updates could easily occur before your departure, so you may wish to contact your airline to verify the policy. Additional charges for bags on any flights, whether these are covered by the tour fee or not, will be the clientʼs responsibility. TOUR INCLUSIONS/EXCLUSIONS: The tour fee is $9275 for one person in double occupancy from Beijing. This includes all lodging from Day 2 through Day 22, all meals from dinner on Day 2 through breakfast on Day 23, all flights within China, all ground transportation, entrance fees, and the guide services of the tour leader(s). Tipping at group meals and for drivers, porters, and local guides is included in your tour fee and will be handled for the group by your Field Guides leader(s). However, if you would like to recognize your Field Guides leader(s) or any local guide(s) for exceptional service, it is entirely appropriate to tip. We emphasize that such tips are optional and not expected. The above fee does not include your airfare to and from Beijing, airport taxes, visa fees, any checked or carry-on baggage charges imposed by the airlines, any alcoholic beverages, optional tips to local drivers, phone calls, laundry, or other items of a personal nature. The single supplement for the tour is $900. Singles are available throughout. If you do not have a roommate but wish to share, we will try to pair you with a roommate from the tour; but if none is available, you will be billed for the single


12 supplement. Our tour fees are based on double occupancy; one-half the cost of a double room is priced into the tour fee. The single supplement is calculated by taking the actual cost of a single room and subtracting one-half the cost of a double room (plus any applicable taxes). The fee for the CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL BEIJING PRE-TOUR EXTENSION is $1550 for one person in double occupancy from Beijing. It includes all lodging from Day 2 through Day 5, all meals from dinner on Day 2 through lunch on Day 6, all ground transportation, entrance fees, and the guide services of the tour leader(s). Tipping at group meals and for drivers, porters, and local guides is included in your tour fee and will be handled for the group by your Field Guides leader(s). However, if you would like to recognize your Field Guides leader(s) or any local guide(s) for exceptional service, it is entirely appropriate to tip. We emphasize that such tips are optional and not expected. The above fee does not include your airfare to and from Beijing, airport taxes, visa fees, any checked or carry-on baggage charges imposed by the airlines, any alcoholic beverages, optional tips to local drivers, phone calls, laundry, or other items of a personal nature. The single supplement for the extension is $375. If you do not have a roommate but wish to share, we will try to pair you with a roommate from the tour; but if none is available, you will be billed for the single supplement. Our tour fees are based on double occupancy; one-half the cost of a double room is priced into the tour fee. The single supplement is calculated by taking the actual cost of a single room and subtracting one-half the cost of a double room (plus any applicable taxes). TOUR REGISTRATION: To register for this tour, complete the Registration/Release and Indemnity form and return it with a deposit of $925 per person. If registering by phone, a deposit must be received within fourteen days, or the space will be released. Full payment of the tour fee is due 120 days prior to departure, or by July 9, 2015. We will bill you for the final payment at either 120 days or when the tour has reached sufficient subscription to operate, whichever date comes later. Since the cost of your trip insurance and airline tickets is generally non-refundable, please do not finalize these purchases until you have received final billing for the tour or have been advised that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate by your tour manager. SMOKING: Almost all of our clients prefer a smoke-free environment. If you smoke, please be sensitive to the group and refrain from smoking at meals, in vehicles, and in proximity to the group on trails and elsewhere. CANCELLATION POLICY: Refund of deposit and payment, less $100 handling fee, will be made if cancellation is received up to 120 days before departure. If cancellation occurs between 119 and 70 days before the departure date, 50% of the tour fee is refundable. Thereafter, all deposits and payments are not refundable. This policy only applies to payments made to Field Guides for tour (and any services included in those fees). Airline tickets not included in the tour fee and purchased separately often carry penalties for cancellation or change, or are sometimes totally non-refundable. Additionally, if you take out trip insurance the cost of the insurance is not refundable so it is best to purchase the policy just prior to making full payment for the tour or at the time you purchase airline tickets, depending upon the airlines restrictions. The right is reserved to cancel any tour prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. The right is reserved to substitute in case of emergency another guide for the original one. TRIP CANCELLATION & MEDICAL EMERGENCY INSURANCE: We strongly recommend you consider purchasing trip cancellation (including medical emergency) insurance to cover your investment in case of injury or illness to you or your family prior to or during a trip. Because we must remit early (and substantial) tour deposits to our suppliers, we cannot offer any refund when cancellation occurs within 70 days of departure, and only a partial refund from 70 to 119 days prior to departure (see CANCELLATION POLICY). In addition, the Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and if it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. US medical insurance plans seldom cover health costs incurred outside the United States unless supplemental coverage is purchased. Furthermore, US Medicare and Medicaid programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United States. When making a decision regarding health insurance, Americans should consider that many foreign doctors and hospitals require payment in cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the United States may cost well in excess of $50,000. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme difficulties. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, please ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare provider or whether you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you incur.


13 US citizens will receive from us a brochure regarding optional tour cancellation/emergency medical insurance. Our agent, CSA, will insure for trip cancellation and interruption, medical coverage, travel delay, baggage loss and delay, 24-hour accident protection, and emergency medical transportation. If you purchase the insurance when making final payment for the tour, and cover all non-refundable parts of the trip (including any non-refundable flights), pre-existing conditions are covered. The CSA brochure includes a contact number; you may also purchase your CSA policy on-line by visiting our website at www.fieldguides.com/travelinsurance.htm and clicking the link to CSA. Please note, once the insurance is purchased it is non-refundable, so please check with your tour manager prior to making the purchase to assure the tour will operate as scheduled. Citizens of other countries are urged to consult their insurance broker. RESPONSIBILITY: For and in consideration of the opportunity to participate in the tour, each tour participant and each parent or legal guardian of a tour participant who is under 18 agrees to release, indemnify, and hold harmless Field Guides Incorporated, its agents, servants, employees, shareholders, officers, directors, attorneys, and contractors as more fully set forth in the Release and Indemnity Agreement on the reverse side of the registration form. Field Guides Incorporated acts only as an agent for the passenger in regard to travel, whether by railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, airplane, or other means, and assumes no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity caused by defect in such vehicles or for any reason whatsoever, including the acts, defaults, or bankruptcies of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour. Field Guides Incorporated accepts no responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, or other causes. The tour participant shall bear all such losses and expenses. Field Guides Incorporated reserves the right to substitute hotels of similar category for those indicated and to make any changes in the itinerary where deemed necessary or caused by changes in air schedules. Field Guides Incorporated reserves the right to decline to accept or to retain any person as a member of any tour. Baggage is at ownerʼs risk entirely. Participants should be in good health and should consult a physician before undertaking a tour. If you have questions about the physical requirements of a tour, please contact our office for further information. Participants should prepare for the tour by reading the detailed itinerary, the information bulletin, and other pertinent matter provided by Field Guides. Each participant is responsible for bringing appropriate clothing and equipment as recommended in our bulletins. THE RECEIPT OF YOUR TOUR DEPOSIT SHALL BE DEEMED TO BE CONSENT TO THE ABOVE CONDITIONS. EACH TOUR PARTICIPANT AND EACH PARENT OR LEGAL GUARDIAN OF A TOUR PARTICIPANT WHO IS UNDER 18 SHALL SIGN AND DELIVER THE RELEASE AND INDEMNITY AGREEMENT AT THE TIME OF REGISTRATION. 3/15DS 3/15ADR

itinerary china: yunnan provincefieldguides.com/itineraries/yun15-itin.pdf · cultural &...

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