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The Crankhandle March 2019

Issue 55

NEWSLETTER OF THE HEREFORD AUSTIN SEVEN CLUB

Editorial

Greetings Members.

I am now into the second year of my term as Editor of the Crankhandle Newsletter. So far it has been a very enjoyable experience and has been helped immensely by contributions to the content by the membership and other interested individuals. Please keep writing in with articles and letters.

This edition includes part 3 of Spanner’s Opus Magnum on the Austin Seven two bearing engine rebuild is, and Part 6 of ‘Working in the 1960s’, An Apprentice’s tale.

We also have a couple of FBHVC notices about MOTs and Driving after Brexit.

Roly Alcock

Secretary’s Corner

As your new Club Secretary, I wish to pay tribute to my predecessor Michael Ward for doing such a splendid job for so long, he will certainly be difficult act to follow and hope he enjoys his hard-earned retirement. A Club communication before the AGM suggested that I would be happy to ‘Take-over’ this role but what I actually said was ‘I would be happy to have-a-go if nobody else is forthcoming’ – a subtle difference methinks! Anyway, I’m happy to say that Michael facilitated a very smooth hand-over of all his carefully kept records and patiently explained everything that needs doing. So, absolutely no excuses if I cock it up.

Having just celebrated the Club’s tenth anniversary and with nearly fifty primary members (actually many more if you count partners, toy boys and mistresses) I believe we can now consider ourselves to be a ‘mature’ club. The Committee therefore decided that it’s time to prepare a written ‘Constitution’ to bring us in-line with most other well-established A7 clubs. However don’t be alarmed, we have in-mind something very simple, running to not much more than a couple of pages that sets down our …. Aims, Title, Membership rules, Committee structure, Membership year, Annual subscription, Annual general meeting and an approach to Dissolution. It is proposed that the Constitution shall be accompanied by one or two Annexes that describe the responsibilities of each Committee member and also the allowable use of club funds that was adopted several years ago. The finally agreed document will be available to all members and hopefully included in a ‘pack’ provided to new Members.

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Another area of Committee excitement is the ongoing upgrade to our Website where David and Roly are making good progress – so, watch this space. The imminent clock change will hopefully encourage more exercise for our Sevens and I am anxious to test my latest carburettor/manifold combination. We are now sporting a

1.125” SU with a 30 angle adapter perched on a Nippy manifold and hoping for a touch more oomph. Finally, can I say how delighted we all are to hear that Graham Honnor seems to be recovering from the horrifying encounter with his 9” angle grinder blade. All our best wishes Graham. Hope you all enjoy some excellent Spring motoring …… Bob

Event’s Secretary

David tells me (ed) that an up-to-date master list of upcoming events for 2019 is now available on the club website.

This will be updated as new information and events are found or notified to him, and the updates published on the circulated events emails.

He and I have also started updating and removing redundant/outdated material for the other pages on the website.

In addition the website now provides access to all the technical articles which I have extracted from the Crankhandle. These are fully indexed using an index page created by Bob Garrett. Please have a look at https://herefordaustin7club.weebly.com/ and let us know what you think about our new look.

David and I have also created a Dropbox account where HA7C files can be deposited. This is so that material is kept safe and backed up, and will be readily available for future committee members to access.

Chairman’s thoughts – (Choppen’s chatter)

Three months in to our tenth anniversary year. The diary is looking pretty full with lots of things going on, a trip to Mold, Bromyard Festival of speed, Ten Pin bowling and our anniversary meal which we already have had to say just a few. The committee is now graced by the presence of David Southcott and the return of Bob Garrett. To quote Bob “we are now a mature club”....... he has set in place as you will now know a constitution that will show just what every committee member is doing, and what the club is all about. Sad to have heard one or two grumbles in recent times, if you are unhappy please phone me and have a chat as I am very anxious to make sure you are happy. We will also intend to set up a new website this will be run by David Southcott and Roly Alcock.

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Where I have got the following quote from I don’t know..... “Restoring the past for the future” I believe that is what we as enthusiastic members of a one make of car do. I worry as to who will carry on and I wonder if they will have to be made electric/eco-friendly in the future, shudder the thought. See you at the Richmond Club on the 26th March. Chops

Membership

Hello Members Every one, that wishes to stay, has now paid and filled in the relevant forms. The membership now stands at 48, two more than last year. Since the last Crankhandle, we have added:- David Fowler and Jane Turner, from Chichester, With a 1935 Nippy David and Jill Broggie, from Hereford. Yet to acquire an Austin. I believe some of you may have met David Fowler on last year’s Wye valley wander, or the Euro tour. David and Jill Broggie have also introduced themselves at Monthly meetings. I hope they all enjoy joining us, in our mutual hobby. Jason

Letters

From Ian Grace, Pre War Minor Club (Pre War Prescott) Hi Roly, I've been meaning to scan these images for ages - finally got round to it. I was on Ascension Island during the Falklands war in 1982 and I found these two Sevens outside the historical society's shed. Is anything known about them? What years do you reckon they are? I remember one of them had a cork in place of a distributor cap - with the wires crudely stuffed through it. It was a miracle it actually ran. The problem with all cars on Ascension is getting spares when they are needed. Cheers, Ian

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From Malcolm Lyon

Roly I visited Croft Castle this week and was interested by the attached! Not sure whose bodywork this is ... Mulliner perhaps or Taylor? James Croft at the wheel.. I like the pipe. Regards Malcolm

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From Kip Waistell

Dear Members, I have a proposal for you all...a Burns Night at the Tram Inn Eardisley on Saturday 25 January 2020 Cost will be about £24 a head for Scotch Broth Haggis with swede and mash OR Hereford Pie with Peas/Chips PLUS a shot of whiskey each Pud Coffee WE WILL HAVE A PIPER..the haggis will be addressed, try to wear something tartan! May I please have an indication of how many would be interested, as I need to make a provisional booking now. We will have the whole dining room at the pub, which is "oldy worldy", with exposed beams etc., for those who do not know it. Regards Kip kipcarwaistell@hotmail.com

From Pat Caine patcaine1948@yahoo.com

Good Evening Roly. Hope all is well. I am forwarding a list of members attending the Bowling on the 17th April. At the Grove Leominster. Pat and Jan 2 Derick 2 David and Linda 2 Brian and Sue 2 Mark 1 Bob and Heather 2 Stuart and Lyn 2 Gerwyn and Pauline 2 Eddie and Anne 2 I would like to know who else will be joining us on the evening. The Bowling will not be until the17th April but if I could know a few days before it will help with the catering. Bowling and Steak Meal £9.99p. Pat

----- I have received the following in response to the November Crankhandle. From Len Ward (no relation to Mike) in South Africa. Hi

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The idea of lapping the top surface of the crankcase in your Crankhandle is of interest. I have just put the engine back into my Nippy, having cured a terrible oil leak and loose flywheel. I found that the stud holding the back of the block to the c-case was stripped and the next one on the right side had broken off. I cured the stripping with a helicoil and got a new stud made for the other. I refitted the block with permatex no. 2 (now called Loctite no. 2) on both sides of the gasket. I've done about 40 miles and so far so good, except that now I have a slight water leak from the aluminium outlet from the cylinder head --- gone porous. Holt's sealer should fix that. All the best Regards Len

Club activities

Ten year Anniversary lunch The Green Dragon was the venue for our Anniversary Meal. I believe that we had thirty two of us in attendance. What a lovely setting, the menu being a real throw back to the past......who remembers Prawn cocktail? that was really the in starter years ago. The Green Dragon is in the middle of refurbishment and all though the room could have been warmer I feel it was an excellent setting. The positioning of the hotel in the centre of Hereford made it a very suitable place for everyone to meet to hold our celebration. Maybe at our twentieth anniversary we will have some dancing, suggestion by Eddie Loader. The atmosphere and warmth amongst the members was lovely to watch. I would thank Brian Bedford for making it happen, and look forward to the next ten years.

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Members’ activities

My RN saloon has raised a paw and demanded some attention. As the winter has done nothing for my arthritis and hence my dexterity, I passed the car over to Gerwyn Lloyd for the necessary work.

My first concern was the back axle leaking where the axle tube is bolted to the differential housing. Of course these really only needs the bolts removing and spreading the axle so that there is sufficient gap to squidge in suitable sealer and bolt it back up again. While at that end of the car, I also wanted to check that the halfshaft nuts are tight. Ray Moses tells me that he checked his Open Road Tourer recently and discovered that not only were the nuts loose but the halfshafts had been damaged and small cracks were visible. He needed to strip his axle down and replace halfshafts and hubs. It’s a lot of work for a loose halfshaft nut. I don’t want that for my car.

The driver’s door hinge is worn to the extent that the door catches on the running board and the door needs lifting when being closed. Not easy when arthritis prevents one contorting oneself to achieve this while sat in the car. Gerwyn will repair this as well.

The car has always been willing to start from cold as long as the choke slide closes fully. I was therefore surprised to find that on the morning I was going to take it over to Gerwyn that it didn’t want to start. The battery has a charger conditioner attached so I was not expecting low battery issues. I did have a spark but not a joyful one as I would expect from the Accuspark electronic ignition. I swapped the plugs over from the Opal which had been out and about the previous day and the engine reluctantly started.

On the way over to Hereford from Worcester I felt that the performance was not as sprightly as expected and the car made a right meal of it climbing Fromes Hill. Instead of third gear being

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sufficient, it struggled in second gear. On the level everything seemed in order. Engine wasn’t overheating and 45mph was an easy cruising speed. Entering stop start traffic in Hereford the tickover was stable. So when I handed the car over to Gerwyn I mentioned that the performance was not as sparkly as usual and left the car with him.

Next day Gerwyn informs me that the head gasket is blown between numbers 2 and 3 cylinders and as there is a shadow on the cylinder head in that area he will be sending the head off to be skimmed. He also states that there is no spark now and maybe the electronic ignition has died. It turned out to be a faulty battery, it appeared to charge right up, but as soon as the engine was cranked over, the voltage collapsed to about 4v. A new Exide battery was ordered up and fitted and hopefully that’s an end to it.

Not for the first time Gerwyn enquires as to how I successfully brought the car over from Worcester! The previous time was to have the steering checked as I felt the car was very unstable. The tracking was so far out, he though there was a fault with his gauges!

Once Gerwyn called me to say the car was ready for collection, I came over with Rob Davies in his TR3A which Gerwyn was going to carry out some more work on. Rob and I set off for the Farmers Arms (known to some of you) and I was very pleased with the performance ascending hills. I arrived home and checked the tightness of the head nuts, and while the torque wrench was out checked the other two cars. The Chummy tightened down quite a bit. The Opal was fine. Hopefully I am now set for pleasant motoring as spring approaches.

Finally a cheap battery conditioner (£15) I bought a while back, decided to throw its toys out of the pram. Whilst expiring it blew the fuse in the plug, tripped the house main, and is now as defunct as the legendary Norwegian Blue Parrot! A more expensive Optimate has been ordered.

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HA7 Hill trial 16 and 17th March 2019

Herefordshire Hill Trial 16 and 17th March 2019

It’s easy to see why Hill Trials are the most sought after events in the VSCC calendar. Exciting, competitive, lots of under 25s wanting (and encouraged) to take part; the list is always over subscribed, with a long line waiting. This year, of 110 cars taking part, 64 were in my Modified Short Wheel base class, and I could feel the pressure. Looking round at the assembled vehicles at How Caple Court I felt small, nervous and novice in my Chummy. Saturday had 8 hills to tackle, with long queuing at most of them, in the rain. We managed full marks for the first 2 hills, so I could relax a bit. Our son Harry, who has never trialled before, was a real help: navigator, general hoister of morale, and tyre compressor slave (we can drop to 7 psi). You soon learn that the experienced professionals here know exactly how to conquer a hill while the rest of us flounder. Their engines and internal gizmos have been tweaked and tweaked over the years, and they wouldn’t dream of attempting a particular hill unless the conditions were the best under the circumstances. If the course is too slippery for instance, they will aim to return later when the hill has had a chance to dry out. This strategy won’t work if you are doing this sort of thing for fun, and going round together with other cars. Our little group never seems to be less than 3 or 4 , which slows your progress, even if the hills aren’t timed.

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To my great embarrassment last year, I had to be pulled out by tractor at ‘Pelham’s Penyard’. My discomfort turned to fear when I saw the size of the tractor reversing on top of me. If that weren’t enough, out of the trees emerged a 9 year old boy who nonchalantly clipped an oversized chain to the front axle, before his father hauled me out. This year would be different! Yeah right. I ground to a halt at marker 5, close to the start line, nowhere near the tractor man and his son. (He’ll be 10 now.) The long slither in reverse wasn’t a joy either. Tyres down, tyres up and on to the next hill, just time to hand our score cards in. There is no quarter if your card is late, as happened to at least one disqualified competitor on Saturday. The weather was slightly kinder on Sunday but the hills were much harder. The sheer depth of mud and dangerous ruts requires years of experience to get right. However we scored full marks at ‘James’ Jolly’, which was a great triumph since we missed a tree only by the thickness of a Rizla paper. My car was beginning to sound a bit unhappy now. The dynamo had sheared on Friday, but some skilful high speed aluminium welding got it going again. However, it was feeling really quite unwell by the time we got home, and my back wheel was the shape of a Pringle. My husband was flinching, never a good sign, and he didn’t like what looked like oil on the cylinder head. Hey ho, the weekend was a wonderful experience, a huge pleasure, and yes please, I’d like to do it again. I think I’ll leave the mud. It looks rather authentic.

Picture by David Southcott

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Technical

Austin Seven Engine Part 3 – Cylinder block, pistons and head This is the third in a series of A7 engine re-build articles to appear in the HA7C newsletter Crankhandle. Previously …..

o Part 1 - Nov 2018 - The crankcase o Part 2 – Jan 2019 – The crankshaft, main bearings, conrods and flywheel

Please remember that these notes are definitely not an attempt to say ‘this is what should be done’, they are simply an account of what I do. Cylinder block Happily, there still seem to be quite a few Austin Seven cylinder blocks around but sadly they are not all in useable or recoverable condition. Many problems with blocks can be overcome so how do we select one that is suitable for use in an engine rebuild? Well, the first thing I check is that there are no cracks running radially from the centre head stud towards bores two and/or three. This fault is not uncommon and is probably caused by severe overtightening of the head nuts - more of which in a later part of these notes on engine assembly. The centre head stud has less supporting cast iron than the others and is even more vulnerable if the nearby bores have been fitted with liners. Unfortunately, if cracks are present here, I believe the block should be consigned to the bin. Bores First, we need to consider the condition of the cylinder bore surfaces and I check to see if there is any evident damage such as vertical marks or gouges from a loose gudgeon pin or patches of very thin wall. I have seen examples of both and such blocks need to be bored and liners inserted before use. The process of fitting liners definitely requires expert attention to get a satisfactorily result and even then, many builders of sporty A7 engines avoid lined blocks. The most obvious indicator of excessive bore wear is the existence of a ridge above the top piston ring on the off-side of the block. A slight ridge can often be honed away but a noticeable ridge might suggest significant wear that requires a re-bore. If the cylinder bore surfaces appear in good shape we next need to check the bore dimensions and if you are the proud owner of a proper bore gauge this is very straightforward. The rest of us probably need to adopt a more basic approach based on measuring the clearance between a piston and the cylinder wall. So, how do we make the necessary measurements? Well, there are four key diameters to measure on each cylinder, the longitudinal and transverse diameters close to the top and bottom of each bore. This can be achieved by using a reasonably well fitting piston together with a set of narrow feeler gauges. Clearly, it is important to use a consistent part of the piston for this process in order to obtain comparable results because pistons often have a variety of different diameters. The aim is to establish any ovality near the top of the bore and compare it with that at the bottom. It is normal to find very little ovality low down in the bores because of generally lower sideways piston loads and better lubrication. The ovality that matters is found towards the top of the bore and some sources recommend a re-bore if the ovality here exceeds twelve thou’ but personally, I would be looking to re-bore the block if this ovality was greater than say six or eight thou’. The other feature of interest is the top to bottom transverse taper because even at 8 thou’, this causes the ring gaps to change by around 12 thou’ twice for each revolution of the crankshaft and I believe this is undesirable.

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If you decide a re-bore is required, it is important to provide the pistons you intend to use and state the required piston to bore clearance. Also, the bores should be brought to their finished dimensions by honing which gives an excellent surface to hold oil – essential whilst running-in. Pistons There are three distinct types of piston that we commonly use in our engines –

o Cylindrical split skirt – Ideal for touring engines with two compression and two oil control rings, happy to operate with low radial clearance (say three thou’ on diameter) giving good control of oil consumption. Sometimes thought to be insufficiently strong for highly tuned engines, although I have had very satisfactory results in moderately tuned road engines

o Cylindrical solid skirt – Until recent years the go-to piston for sports engines, again with four rings as above but needs a little more diametric clearance – typically four or five thou’. May use more oil but very strong

o Cut-away sports slipper – These modern pistons have two often narrow compression rings and a single oil control ring all above the pin. Supplied in a variety of metric dimensions and considerably lighter than the above types therefore happier at high rev’s. The ones I have seen have relatively narrow lands and this restricts the amount of chamfer that can be applied at the top edge of the bore. I have no personal experience of this type but I am told they can cause higher oil consumption

Piston ring clearances will be discussed in Part 5 – Engine assembly. Head and manifold studs The studs in A7 blocks are often difficult to remove. This is no surprise, because the buried ends have been in contact with engine coolant (sometimes for many years) thus causing some inevitable corrosion. It is highly unusual to be able to remove studs by using two nuts locked together, unless they have recently been replaced. So, we have to consider other options - and these range from a rather basic approach using a good size ‘monkey’ wrench or Stilson to the various forms of proper stud extractors.

Stilsons can be effective, especially if used as a

pair at 180 to one another but they will often damage the studs - which of course doesn’t matter if you plan to replace them. Undoubtedly, the best method of removing studs, is by using a proper stud extractor tool and several different socket-drive types are available. The cheaper ones are based on an eccentrically mounted hardened & knurled steel ring that grips the stud and they can accommodate a range of stud diameters. However, undoubtedly the best ones are the ‘roller cage’ type but they are rather expensive and you need a separate one for each diameter.

In all cases, it is helpful to lean repeatedly on the socket wrench or drive bar until you eventually feel it ‘give’. The application of heat to the stud can sometimes help release more stubborn examples. Sadly, despite all our best efforts, it is not uncommon for manifold and sometimes head studs - to break rather than allow themselves be unscrewed - and the break will invariably occur just below the block surface. Now, many books tell us that in this event - you simply centre-pop the broken stud remnant near its centre, drill a suitable hole and use a left-hand screw extractor to remove it. I strongly suspect that these writers are simply repeating something they have read but never

Using a 'roller cage’ type stud extractor

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actually tried to do it themselves. I’m afraid that I have had only very limited success with this approach. My method of removing broken studs is simple and so-far, has always been successful. For head studs I use an old cylinder head as the primary jig, in conjunction with a steel guide ferrule sitting in the appropriate stud hole. The remains of the stud should be filed flat with the mating surface if it protrudes, then the head secured in position with at least three or four other studs & nuts before inserting and pressing-down the ferrule and drilling-out the core of the offending stud.

Many years ago I turned-up several ferrules to suit 5/16” BSF head studs. The one shown on the left is 1/8” internal diameter and the outside diameter is sized to fit the 5/16“ dia stud hole in the head. It is important that the ferrule is a close sliding fit in the stud hole and the drill a good fit in the bore, also the ferrule must reach down to the top surface of the block. A second ferrule is then substituted to take a 5/16” BSF tapping drill - 7/64” dia will do.

Very often, after drilling, the remains of the old thread will fall-out or easily be coaxed out. Finally, a carefully aligned ‘second’ tap will quickly restore the thread to a usable condition. Broken manifold stud threads can easily be repaired by an entirely equivalent method, with appropriately sized jig ferrules and an old Austin manifold. I believe it is essential that all threads in the block are in good condition, so if you are unhappy with the results of the above process, or the threads are loose, then stepped studs are probably the answer and they are widely available from our usual suppliers. Several other approaches are discussed in Part 1 of these notes. In any event I would always advocate replacing with new - any studs that do not have excellent threads. Core plugs If you are lucky enough to have an early cylinder block with screw-in core plugs – you can skip this section. Unfortunately, the more common ‘knock-in’ core plugs can appear perfectly OK but in-fact be wafer thin due to internal corrosion. So, unless I’m sure the core plugs have been replaced in recent years and therefore known to be sound, I believe it is prudent to replace them with new when rebuilding an engine. It is also much easier to clear the internal water passages of the block with the plugs removed.

Core plug removal is normally straightforward - you simply drive a small sharp cold chisel through the centre and lever out the remains. Many years ago I had a core plug fail not long after I had replaced it, and the problem seemed to be a badly corroded housing. So, nowadays, I always ensure the seating is thoroughly sound before assembly. The seat shown here in the photo was machined a little deeper (there is plenty of metal to accommodate this) using a

New core plug and clean seating

Two head stud drilling ferrules

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boring head with the block clamped upside-down on the bed of a Myford 7 Series lathe with suitable spacers. This provided a perfect seat.

Some new core plugs have a corrosion resistant plated surface but if this is absent, then it is prudent to apply some protection to the inner surface. A two-part epoxy paint would be ideal. The proper installation process for domed core plugs is well known - using a steel drift, slightly smaller in diameter than the plug and the plug placed (concave side down) on a thin bead of 2-part epoxy putty. Then quickly follow-up with a whopping blow from a heavy hammer (sometimes several) but definitely not a series of gentle blows. For core plugs in the block, I adopt a belt and braces approach to completely eliminate the likelihood of any further problems by adding steel cover-plates (see photos). The plates are about 1/16” thick - sealed in position on a gasket smeared with Hylomar and finally secured by six 6BA x 3/8” long countersunk steel setscrews. Yes, I know what you are thinking and I agree - this is probably completely unnecessary but I am determined never to have another a core plug problem!

Interestingly, I recently heard of another risk averse engine builder who used to install a second core plug on top of the first - something I’ve never seen in the text books but certainly a lot quicker than my method. Coolant passageways The water passages in A7 blocks are often restricted by hard rust deposits which need to be cleared if we are to avoid an engine that boils when climbing long steep hills on sunny days. Most of this obstructing material can be removed by poking around with a hardened blade through the side water inlet opening but the worst affected region is likely to be the ‘hot side’ adjacent to the exhaust manifold. Luckily, there is an excellent article on the A7OC website dealing with this very subject, that recommends appropriate drill sizes and depths to clear this part of the block (and head). It is also important that when the manifold studs are installed, they do not protrude into these newly cleared areas. Side water inlet

Plug fitted & 6BA holes tapped Core plug cover plate complete

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The cast iron ‘bridges’ supporting the side water inlet mounting studs are often badly corroded. If the ‘bridges’ are largely intact but the 5/16” BSF stud hole threads are in poor condition, it is often possible to drill and tap say 7/16” x 26 TPI and turn-up a pair of bushes (I use bronze) threaded externally to suit and internally 5’16” BSF as shown in the following photos.

The bushes are fixed in position with high strength Loctite and after curing – cut and filed flush with the flange surface as shown in the photo on the left. I have used this method several times and it has proved entirely satisfactory. However, if the ‘bridges’ are badly damaged or non-existent and you are desperate to retain your favourite block – then all is not lost, because laser cut stainless steel repair plates are now available. There is an excellent article by Colin Danks on the Bristol A7 Club Website …. http://www.ba7c.org/ (with photos by Terry Griffin) that describes in detail the fitting of a repair plate.

In essence, the plate is fixed in position with stainless steel countersunk set-screws on a gasket with sealant. The plate is not really thick enough to thread for the 5/16” studs, so nuts (preferably also stainless) need to be silver ’soldered’ on the back. Any remaining ‘bridge remnants obviously need to be sawn off to clear these nuts. My thanks to the BA7C for their kind permission to include the photo on the right of a completed flange repair installation.

Holes drilled and re-tapped oversize Fitting new bronze bush

New bushes finished flush

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Manifold studs

Austin’s standard ¼”diameter manifold studs have always struck me as being slightly flimsy - so, I make mine 9/32” diameter, threaded BSF and make nice beefy 7/16” AF brass nuts to suit. Much better engineering in my view and I like to think that Sir Herbert wouldn’t be too disapproving! The photo here shows a set of completed manifold studs and nuts on an engine that was destined to be fitted with a sports free-flow exhaust together with a separate alloy induction manifold. Hence the different stud lengths, bespoke spacers and a blanked-off centre stud.

Block to crankcase fixings The cylinder block is attached to the crankcase by eight 5/16” BSF studs and for normal use with single valve springs and a standard camshaft this is probably adequate so long as the threads in the crankcase are in good condition. However, if like me you like your engine to develop a little more power, you might employ a camshaft that gives a little extra valve lift and to fully exploit its potential, you will frequently want to employ high engine revs which calls for double valve springs. All this suggests to me that those eight studs might appreciate a little help especially in the areas at either end of the camshaft. I have seen a variety of solutions over the years that include bolts running from inside the crankcase to different patterns of external brackets some of which struck me as decidedly clumsy. My approach is to attach simple mild steel brackets at the front and back of the engine above the line of the camshaft attached to both the block and crankcase. Although there is not a great deal of space to accommodate such brackets (especially at the front of the engine) or depth of aluminium to secure them, it is possible with care to make and fit suitable items. The examples shown in the following photos are attached to the block by a pair of 5/16” BSF countersunk hex drive setscrews secured with threadlock and to the crankcase by ¼” BSF studs and nuts. The stud spacing of the rear bracket looks somewhat irregular but they were positioned to maximise the available depth of crankcase material. A very approximate calculation suggests that each bracket provides a ‘holding-down’ capacity at least equivalent to an additional 5/16” block/crankcase stud. In any event, it seems to work because I have no oil leakage from the block/crankcase joint despite frequently using high engine rev’s.

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Ports A great deal of information regarding optimal side-valve port geometry for high revving racing engines, can be found in the 750 Club Companion and Special Builders Guide. Much of this is very interesting reading but for a lively road-going engine, I conclude that generally smooth passages devoid of any sharp steps is all we need. Depending on the choice of manifold, this probably means removing some metal from the outer ends of the ports and making sure the gasket does not intrude. The bottom end of the head stud immediately over the Siamese inlet ports can also usefully be smoothed-off as shown in the following photos.

I believe there is no advantage in polishing the ports, a smooth matt finish being more desirable, although this is not the case with the cylinder head and piston crown where a polished finish will offer some advantage. Valves If the valves can be wobbled in their guides to any extent, I always replace the guides with new. The old ones can easily be driven downwards for removal with a suitable stepped drift and new ones inserted the same way, preferably with a copper washer protecting the top surface of the guide. Better practice of course would be to use a simply made threaded ‘puller’. With the new guides in place, it is useful to check that a clean valve slides freely but without any play. If the valve is tight, careful use of an expanding reamer will soon ensure a good sliding fit. Incidentally, the guides should be positioned so that the top surface projects 3/32” into the valve port.

Front - straddles the cam bearing screw Rear - deliberate uneven stud spacing

Before After

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The valve seat should be re-cut after installing new guides, removing as little material as possible

noting that standard seats are 45 and a seat width of around 0.10”is typical. Valves It seems Sir Herbert believed that standard size valves were fine for A7 engines - and for modest power requirements, I’m sure he was right. On the other hand, if you seek a little more oomph and are willing to run the engine at higher revs, then fitting larger inlet valves is pretty straightforward. A 1.00”dia cutter with a 0.275” dia mandrel to fit the valve guide is run at slow speed to cut a depth of around 5/8” and the bottom of the cut blended into the port with a rotating grind stone. A new valve

seat is then cut in the top face. This can with advantage be cut at 30 and only a narrow seat of say 1/16” width is needed, because the incoming mixture tends to keep the valve and seat a good deal cooler than the exhaust.

Large inlet valves are available from our suppliers and the heads are typically 1.142” (29mm)dia. I make sure there is a clearance between enlarged inlet and standard exhaust valves on assembly of around 10 thou and this can be achieved by carefully turning down the inlet valve head in the lathe. Incidentally, whilst using the lathe, the top edges of enlarged inlets can usefully be slightly rounded to improve gas flow into the combustion chamber. This can be seen on the top valve in the photo also the much wider seat on the lower standard size exhaust valve. I definitely favour valves secured with cotters rather

than pins because many years ago, I had a pin shear. I also use double valve springs with cotter cups to suit, which allows the engine to achieve high rev’s whilst eliminating the chance of any valve bounce. Chamfer to top edge of bore If you consider the many changes of direction of the gas path from the inlet port, up past the valve, across into the combustion area then back out, it will be no surprise that some rounding of the top

Boring for larger inlet valves Large inlet valve in position

Inlet (top) and exhaust valves

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right-angle edge of the bore will help matters. The theory of fluid dynamics suggests that even a very small rounding will make quite a difference. The key limitation is of course the position of the top compression ring at TDC and this is determined by a trial engine assembly then allowing say an extra 20 thou’ to be safe. Also, the width of any chamfer is obviously limited by the head gasket dimensions. Cylinder head The low compression Austin cylinder head is not usually associated with performance and often believed to respond poorly to skimming in an attempt to extract more power by increasing the compression ratio. Nevertheless, I have observed one or two early lightweight Sevens performing remarkably well with skimmed low compression heads. Received wisdom tells us that the higher compression (originally 5.8:1) ‘1937’ head enjoys a far superior combustion chamber shape and in my experience it does seem to offer more power, although I have never tried a skimmed low compression head. Original Austin cylinder heads have now been around for rather a long time and it is sometimes difficult to tell whether they have been skimmed and if so, by how much. There is an excellent article on this subject to be found on the Bristol A7 Club Website but it can be useful to know that original heads were believed to measure within 10 thou of 1.50 inches in height when they left the factory. Bill Williams also cautions us not to take the compression ratio (CR) above 7 to 1 and don’t forget that increasing the bore will also increase the CR. I will return to this subject in the final part of these notes on engine assembly, because the compression ratio is also affected by the thickness of the head gasket. A variety of alloy heads are available for our engines but I only have first hand experience of the Speedex and Supalloy offerings. Both seem to provide a power output similar to the 1937 Austin head but have the advantage of being considerably lighter. However, if you aspire to compete in VSCC events, you might find you are restricted to the Watmough Hewitt head with 18mm plugs. I have heard fears that alloy heads distort and regularly need re-facing but this is most definitely not my experience. Just for the record, I have been using a Supalloy head (estimated CR of around 6:1) for over ten years without any problems. The next instalment (Part 4) will discuss manifolds, carburettors, fan spindle and clutch ……… Spanner

Starter housing

When fitting the starter housing , you must fit the locating dowels because these take the strain from the mounting set pins . The mounting set pins will always work loose if the dowels are missing , there is quite considerable torque reaction when the starter is actuated thus the importance of the dowels. There is another reason for fitting these dowels, they help to maintain correct alignment between starter teeth and flywheel teeth. Because the starter housing is mounted directly to the crankcase, the set pin threads are machined into soft aluminium so will quickly wear if there is movement between housing and crankcase, to effect a repair to possible damaged threads will always involve engine removal . Eddie Loader

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Working in the 1960s Part 6 Last time I was looking for yet another car! During my frequent trips out in the firm’s pick up or breakdown wagon I kept my eyes peeled, as in the sixties it was not unusual to see cars abandoned in the streets, usually due to a failed MOT and or a lack of funds. I did not find my next car abandoned in the street, instead, it had been dumped on an allotment. I had to have this car, so set about knocking on doors nearby to see if I could locate the owner. I soon found an allotment holder who pointed me in the right direction, and for the princely sum of Five Pounds I was the proud owner of a 1934 Hillman Aero Minx Sports Tourer, complete with knock off hub caps, Bluemels steering wheel and an MG like slab petrol tank at the rear. This ‘tank’ turned out to be purely cosmetic, the real one being tucked away out of sight.

There were of course one or two drawbacks to my newly acquired example of sporting machinery. It didn’t go! And it was dumped on an allotment! The tyres held air after much work with a foot pump, so with a few willing helpers it was pushed to where we could hitch it up to the firm’s pick up and tow it away. Then came the next snag - we had no garage, no drive, and no off road parking! My parents put their collective foot down and said it had to go. My motorcycling friend had a sort of driveway, created by his dad to get a motorbike and sidecar off the road. He had long since lost his licence and the combination had been sold, so his dad said that

I could work on it there for as long as I wanted for beer money. It turned out he drank rather a lot, but at least it was off the street and just round the corner. Perhaps I should point out here that the frequent “borrowing” of the firm’s pick up was normally done as soon as the Foreman had gone home to lunch. I suspect he knew what was going on but we all did it! Work now commenced to get the Aero Minx both running and roadworthy. The engine was basically a 1185cc Hillman 10 engine, fitted with a down draught Stromberg carburettor the size of a small bucket to encourage it to go a bit quicker. After the usual plugs, points, tappets, petrol pump and carb song, the engine ran. A steel plate covering a water jacket was rusted through and I destroyed this trying to weld it up. I went to the local Routes Group dealers, who sold me a new plate and gasket for Five Shillings and Eleven pence – 5s/11d – almost 30 new pence in today’s money. The next big job was the brakes. Bendix Duo Servo. (For those of you familiar with Wheatley & Morgan, they suggest, on page 62, changing from Bendix brakes to some other method of operation!) They work well when set up correctly, this was time consuming, and I wanted to drive it. I persevered, and at last the car was ready for its MOT. Tom helped out here, and applying the brakes at 40mph the car swiftly hung a left and bounced up onto the pavement, but it stopped. Tom remarked that it was better than pulling the other way, into oncoming traffic. The car still needed a lot of work, and being young and foolish I would get round to it one day. Then the current girlfriend refused to travel in it due to the hood leaking, and the road being too close to her undercarriage, as she could see the road through the holes in the floor. When the carpet, an old hearth rug, got caught in the prop shaft one night, she was convinced she was being dragged to her death, so it had to go. Another bad decision!?! I sold it to a neighbour for £10.00, so a profit was made, which was good. Selling it to a neighbour was not good. He wore the doorbell out!

22

One of the mechanics at work was selling a Triumph Mayflower at this time, and I needed a car, money changed hands and I was the proud owner of a Triumph Mayflower. This was a most unremarkable car! Especially as my friends were driving MG’s, Ford or Austin Specials or rode big British bikes. However it got me from A to B, and often back again and my Mum liked it. I once broke a half shaft; no one in the garage had ever known a Mayflower do that before. It was my drag racing starts, perfected from watching Don Garlits, Dante Duce etc. during the first British International Drag Festival in 1964. It was around this time that the late Morris Eight engine saw further use. Tom had bought a Mini, as his wife refused to travel in the Ford special, but he didn’t like the colour, a sort of off-white. He wanted to change it to blue. He had a spray gun, but no compressor. This is when my Morris Eight engine saw further use! A frame was rapidly put together from the last bits of old bedstead that I had. Tom made two non-return valves from a couple of spark plugs, and a fuel container hung from a roof beam in Tom’s garage. The non-return valves were in the middle two plug holes. An air receiver was made from the Mini’s spare wheel, with a second tubeless valve fitted. This valve was connected to the spray gun. The engine started and ran on the two end cylinders, while the middle two pumped air (and petrol!) into the tyre. Incredibly this worked, even though air pressure dropped dramatically as soon as spraying commenced, but with me holding the throttle wide open the engine ran as flat out as it could on two cylinders. The Mini was now dark blue. I still have the Morris carburettor, with traces of blue around the air intake! When it was over, the engine frame was knocked apart causing the engine to descend vertically on to a concrete floor. The bottom half of the crankcase, which was aluminium, split from end to end, and that, as they say, was that! After all this excitement I was yearning for open air motoring again, and Tom told me he had seen a 1938 Ford 10 Tourer advertised locally. I rang the chap with the Ford. The fact that he had a

telephone should have aroused my suspicions that he was a back street used car dealer. No one had a telephone in those days, only hospitals, police and used car dealers. I arranged to view the car, and when I arrived it was up and ready to go. I mean ready. The engine was running. It drove, most things worked and there was some tread left on the tyres. Money changed hands, and I drove it home. The next morning, eager to show off my latest acquisition to my workmates, I was up bright and early. Just as well. It wouldn’t start! It wouldn’t start the following morning either. Or the one after that. It once backfired sending the starting

handle around to smack me on the back of the hand, inflicting injury and inciting hatred. Tom came over and we towed it to start. Then some fine tuning and replacement ignition parts and I’d got it beaten. It wasn’t to be outdone however, and one evening returning home from the local Rugby Club, it rolled itself over, damaging itself and its driver. Thankfully it was much more damaged than I was. This was pre breathalyser, just as well as the first car to come along was a Police Car. Informing them of where I worked, they called out the Bedford (we ran a 24hour breakdown service) to drag the car away. Reg was on call that night and asked if I was interested in buying the Mayflower again. No, was all I said! I only ever owned one other Ford. A Mark IV Cortina Estate, which burst into flames driving home one night, well, it saved me the bother I suppose. The Ford 10 still managed to vent it’s hatred on me and got me into more trouble. One of our customers, a painter and decorator, drove an old Ford Thames E83W van. The engine of this van was on its last legs; our service department was asked for a quote for a reconditioned engine, far too much money for this decorator. He wandered into the workshop one afternoon and enquired as to where he might find a good second-hand engine. That evening after work the engine was removed from my Ford 10 Tourer and borrowing the firms pick up, transported to Tom’s house where we planned to swap engines at the weekend. This was known as a ‘foreigner’ and frowned upon in the trade as everyone was doing it in order to earn a bit more cash. For some reason the job took longer than expected, so I phoned in sick on the Monday morning and set off to Tom’s

23

place to finish the job off. While underneath the van attaching the starter motor, a car drew up, and someone got out and approached the van with highly polished brown brogues. I knew those shoes. It was Jim, the Foreman, and he asked me what I thought I was doing. “Fitting the starter motor” I replied. I accompanied him back to the Garage, leaving my trusty push bike behind, and got more than a severe rollicking. I got a week’s suspension – without pay. Too scared to tell my Mother, I set off for ‘work’ each morning as if nothing had happened. She never found out, if she did, she didn’t mention it. After that episode I settled back into the daily routine and did my best to stay out of trouble. Jim was always watching me it seemed.

Westmoho Here are some photographs of Westgate Motor House and another branch, North Street Motors(Ed)

Westgate Motor House, Gloucester 1936

Westgate Motor House, Gloucester 1923 North Street Motors, Cheltenham, 1969

24

Westgate Motor House, Gloucester 1960s

Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs

5 March 2019 For

immediate release

BREXIT CHECKLIST

The Federation recognises that you might be considering taking your historic vehicle across the Channel, or into the Republic of Ireland, this year. You might be concerned about what will be different if the UK should leave the EU on 29 March 2019 without any deal having been achieved. In anything concerning this subject, in the first instance you should consult Government websites. As departments develop their plans, information is posted online on a regular basis. The following are areas which the Federation considers you should think about if you are intending to travel, either as a driver or passenger.

You should consider your insurance, both vehicle and personal.

o The Insurance Directive will cease to be effective and there could be changes to how

claims would be dealt with. Ask your motor insurer.

o You may require a Green Card to visit EU countries, and not all EU countries accept

the same Green Card. Your motor insurer should know the various rules

o Your European Health Insurance Card will no longer be of any effect. Thus you should

consider establishing that your insurance cover includes full health insurance,

including, if required, cover against the occurrence of existing medical conditions.

You may need any driver to acquire an International Driving Permit

You will require to show a separate GB plate even if your vehicle is identified as being

registered in the UK by the EU ‘GB’ number plate.

25

The Roadworthiness Testing Directive will no longer apply. You may wish to submit your

vehicle to an MOT test, even if it is exempt, so that you will be in possession of evidence that

the vehicle has passed a roadworthiness test if local law enforcement requests.

Not all local Low Emission Zones currently exempt historic vehicles. There may be some

which exempt only historic vehicles from the EU. You will need to check locally.

This advice must not be regarded as complete or accurate; it is offered only as a useful checklist. If you have specific questions, we will try to help, but in the current uncertainty, we will not necessarily know the answer. [ends] For media enquiries, please contact:

• Geoff Lancaster, 07860 562659, commsdirector@fbhvc.co.uk

23 January 2019 For immediate release

MOT Exemption of Historic Vehicles

The Federation has argued that the DVLA process for enabling declaration of a vehicle as not being significantly changed at the time of re-licensing only, was one which could put drivers at risk of bureaucratic misunderstanding and leave them at risk from ill-briefed policeman. We all became aware that a real example that had arisen and that the driver of a historic vehicle had received a Notice of Prosecution. The Federation urgently sought clarification of the position from the Department of Transport. We are glad to confirm that they responded promptly and positively and have provided us with the statement we copy here, which we think sets out the position clearly and succinctly and will be of real use to our members.

It may be that members who have concerns about this will wish to carry a copy of the DfT

Statement in the vehicle. We are still unhappy that the Vehicle Enquiry Service cannot show an accurate MOT status even after the registered keeper has filled in a Form V112 or checked the declaration page during online licensing. Currently it simply says, if the vehicle does not have an MOT, that no MOT information is available. [ends] For media enquiries, please contact:

• Geoff Lancaster, 07860 562659, commsdirector@fbhvc.co.uk

Editor’s notes The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs exists to maintain the freedom of its members to use historic vehicles on the UK’s roads, hence its campaign message: ‘Yesterday’s Vehicles on Tomorrow’s Roads’. The FBHVC has over 550 member clubs representing over 251,000 individual owners.

26

Mr Bob Owen Director - Legislation Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs

Dear Mr Owen, RE: Vehicle Of Historic Interest MOT Exemption The following is a statement of the effect of recent legal changes to requirements for MOT testing of vehicles at least 40 years old. On 20 May 2018 the Motor Vehicle (Tests) (Amendment) Regulations 2017 came into force. Regulation 7 sets out that any car, van (under 3.5t) or motorcycle which is being used on a public road is to be considered a vehicle of historic interest and therefore no longer required to hold a valid MOT certificate if it:

a) was manufactured or registered for the first time at least 40 years previously b) is of a type no longer in production, and c) has been historically preserved or maintained in its original state and has not undergone substantial changes

in the technical characteristic of its main components. This amended the previous exemption from MOT testing for cars, light vans or motorcycles manufactured in 1960 or before. The arrangements for the testing of old larger vehicles are different. Please find enclosed a copy of this Statutory Instrument and a copy of the Explanatory Memorandum should you wish to refer to these.

There is no requirement, either intended or implied, that at the point a vehicle becomes 40 years old and providing the vehicle has not been substantially changed, for the owner to make a declaration to any statutory body, declaring that the vehicle is a vehicle of historic interest and is therefore no longer required to have a valid MOT certificate. The Department and DVLA have set up an administrative process (via DVLA form V112 and the equivalent process on-line) which requires at the time of the annual re-licensing of vehicles a declaration that the vehicle is a vehicle of historic interest – in that it has not been substantial modified. This process is in place to help owners of old vehicles that have been substantially modified do not by mistake run them without a valid MOT. The Department has published information about what constitutes a substantial modification in this context and encourages owners who do not know to seek advice. Yours sincerely,

Duncan Price

Divisional Manager, Freight, Operator Licensing and Roadworthiness

Department for Transport Great Minster House 33 Horseferry Road London SW1P 4DR Tel: 0300 330 3000 Web Site: www.gov.uk/dft Our Ref: MC/232005

11 January 2019

27

Market Place – For sale or exchange

Roly My friend and fellow member of the Hereford Veteran-Cycle Club has asked me to let local Austin 7 owners know that he is interested in a possible part exchange - He has a partly rebuilt 1926 AC Royal and he might like to consider a price adjusted swap for an Austin 7 goer or project. Alvin can be contacted on 01568 770327 (Wigmore) You may like to mention this in the Crankhandle. Regards Malcolm Lyon

Events diary – 2019

https://herefordaustin7club.weebly.com/whats-on.html

INFO IS CORRECT AT TIME OF LISTING BUT PLEASE CHECK BEFORE TRAVELLING Key to events listings:-

Bold Text indicates a HA7C event

Italic text is an event organised by others

Date Event Venue Contact

Mar 23rd Sat 09:00

Austin 7’s back to the track”. An

Austin 7 track day entry fee £65. Fee is per car. Spectators Free

Curborough Sprint Course, Fradley, Lichfield, WS13 8EJ

Charlie Plain-Jones at: cplainjonesaustin7@gmail.com

26th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

Apr 4th Thur

A Gentle run in Hereford to commemorate the Hereford Speed Trial of 1924 which was the last speed event before they were banned

Rotherwas and Whitecross Road

stevekaytwo@btinternet.com

6th/7th Sun/Sat

09:00

Bromyard Festival of Speed Sat touring drive £40 Sun Spectators only (entries have closed)

Reserved parking for Sevens at the Falcon Inn off Pump Street

https://bromyardspeedfestival.co.uk

14th Sun 11:00

Steam Open Day Hereford Waterworks Museum Broomy Hill Hereford

http://www.waterworksmuseum.org.uk

17th Wed

18:30

Ten Pin bowling & Supper Grove Golf and Bowl, Fordbridge, Leominster, Herefordshire HR6 0LE

Pat Caine

28

20th 21st 22nd

Sat Sun Mon

Easter Model & Collectors Show Bromsgrove, Worcs.B60 4AL http://www.shakespearesrally.com

22nd

Easter Mon

Coleford Carnival of Transport, A town centre static display of all types of classic vehicles from pre to post war, including trucks, buses

and m/c’s

Coleford Forest of Dean Www.colefordcarnivaloftransport.co.uk

28th Sun

Drive-it-Day TBA

30th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

May

4th 5th Sat/ Sun

Border Counties Vintage Club Annual rally. Steam traction engines and classic cars Pre-booking required

Vauxhall Fields, Monmouth www.bordercountiesvintageclub.co.uk/

5th Sun 11:00

Wheel Nuts Classic Motor Show St Roses School, Stroud GL5 4AP

wheelnuts@stroses.org.uk 01453 763793

6th Bank Hol

Mon

10:00

Drive to Bluebell Day at Bosbury House

TBA Ray Moses

11th 12th

Sat Sun

Ludlow spring festival Pre-booking required

Ludlow Castle Pat Caine

18th 19th

Sat Sun

Beaulieu Spring Autjumble National Motor Museum Beaulieu

https://www.beaulieu.co.uk

27th Bank Hol

Mon

Steam & Classic car Rally Bailey Park Abergavenny https://abergavennysteamrally.co.uk

28th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

Jun 2nd Sun

12:00

Cream Tea Run TBA Hazel Pescatore

8th / 9th

Sat / Sun

South Wales Austin 7 Club 50th anniversary Rally

BRYNGARW Country Park Bridgend CF32 8UU

John Williams 01656786591

9th Sun

Vintage Minor Register and DeHavilland Moth Club Pre-war cars and flying at the Shuttleworth Collection

Old Warden Airfield Old Warden Aerodrome Nr Biggleswade Bedfordshire SG18 9EP

http://vintageminor.co.uk/PWS 2019/PreWar Shuttleworth 2019.html

24th - 1st

Mon

Hereford Austin Sevens on Tour Based at Mold Brian Bedford45@btinternet.com

29

25th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

29/30th

Sat/Sun

09:00

Bromyard gala Burgess Farm Avenbury Bromyard HR& 4JY

Sarah Ball, 19 Jackets Close Knighton Powys LD7 1EG

Jul 7th Sun 10:00

VSCC Speed Championship Shelsley Walsh Hill Climb www.vscc.co.uk

7th Sun 10:00

750 MC Annual Beaulieu Rally National Motor Museum Beaulieu

www.750mc.co.uk/austin7/Beaulieu.htm

19th 20th 21st

Fri Sat Sun

Bristol Austin Seven Club Rally and open day for the Jack French Garage

Atwell-Wilson Motor Museum Calne, Wiltshire SN11 0NF

events@ba7c.org

20th 21st

Sat Sun

Much Marcle Steam Rally Much Marcle Herefordshire https://muchmarclesteamrally.com/

20th 21st

Sat Sun

Your chance to drive up the Prescott Hill Climb at Pre-war Prescott on Saturday or join the leisurely Cotswold tour on Sunday

Prescott Hill Climb Gotherington, Cheltenham, Glos. GL52 9RD

http://prewarprescott.com/?page_id=161

26th 27th 28th

Fri Sat Sun

09:00

Friday Auction and Steam Rally Woodside farm Welland Worcestershire WR13 6NG

https://wellandsteamrally.co.uk/

30th Tue 07:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting Bring your car for the photoshoot

The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

Aug

3rd/4th

Sat/Sun

09:00

VSCC Speed Championship Prescott Hill Climb https://www.vscc.co.uk

3rd/4th

Sat/Sun

09:00

The Old Timer Tractor Rally The Parks Woofferton Near Ludlow Shropshire SY18 4NP

theoldtimertractorrally@gmail.com

4th 09:00

Herefordshire Country Fair and Classic cars

The Whitfield Estate, Wormbridge, HR2 9DG

showdirector@herefordshirecountryfair.co.uk

10th 11th

Sat Sun

Tortworth Vintage Rally Wickwar, Gloucestershire, GL12 8LF

www.shakespearesrally.com/

11th 12th

Sun 09:00

Three Cocks Steam rally Three Cocks near Hay-on-Wye HR3 5RS

Gwilym Lewis on 01497 847738

30

24th Sat Gloucester Retro Classic Cars in the town Centre

Gloucester

24th 25th 26th

Sat Sun Mon

Pershore Plum Festival and Classic Car Show

Abbey Fields Pershore Worcestershire

info@pershoreplumfestival.org.uk

25th Sun 12:00

VSCC Serendipity The Royal Oak Much Marcle Herefordshire

Mark Garfitt 01981 541 133

27th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting

Sep 1st Sun

10:30

Gathering at Hampton Court Castle

Hope under Dinmore HR6 0PN

Pauline Lloyd

14th 15th

Sat Sun

Stoke Prior Steam and Classic Car Rally

Stoke Prior Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, B60 4LF

www.shakespearesrally.com/

22nd Sun 09:00

VSCC Madresfield Driving Tests Madresfield Near Malvern www.vscc.co.uk

24th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting

28th Sun 09:00

VSCC Speed Championship Prescott Hill Climb www.vscc.co.uk

Oct 13th Sun Malvern Classic Car Show Three Counties Showground Malvern

http://www.threecounties.co.uk

20th Sun

The Wye Valley Wander ?????? TBA ???????

29th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

Nov

16th Sun 09:00

VSCC Cotswold Trial Prescott Hill Climb www.vscc.co.uk

26th Tue 19:30

Monthly Clubnight Meeting Mulled wine and Mince Pies

The Richmond Club Edgar Street Hereford HR4 9JP

Dec N.B No Club night this month –

it’s Christmas!

31

Jan 2020

25th

Sat 18:30

Proposed Burns Night with Piper,Haggis & whisky £24

The Tram Eardisley Kip Waistell- Please let him know now if interested as an early booking will be required

Feb ?? Sat Annual Dinner ?? ??

Tail Lights

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HA7C Committee contact details …….

Role Name Telephone Mobile E-mail Chairman Derek

Choppen 01989 740583 07769 352945 derekchoppen@yahoo.co.uk

Secretary Bob Garrett 01497 831310 07900 496073 fatcontroller.bob@btinternet.com

Treasurer Hazel Pescatore

01989 565909 07754 722053 hazelpescatore@hotmail.co.uk

Membership Jason Moses

01989 565909 07879 668235 Jason.moses@tiscali.co.uk

Events Coordinator

David Southcott

01885 489927 07429 870328 dandl@southcotts.plus.com

Technical Advisor

Eddie Loader

01432 356841 07817 361921 quillpen1940@gmail.com

Editor Roly Alcock 01905 371061 07730 557952 ha7ceditor@gmail.com

HA7c website http://www.herefordaustin7club.co.uk HA7C Facebook https://www.facebook.com/herefordaustinsevenclub

Some other useful resources on the Internet

Austin Seven Friends http://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/ Austin Seven Clubs Association https://www.facebook.com/thea7ca/

The Federation of British Historical Vehicle Clubs http://www.fbhvc.co.uk/ Austin Seven Group on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/8069487412 Cornwall Austin Seven Club http://www.austin7.org/ Bristol Austin Seven Club http://www.ba7c.org/ Dorset Austin Seven Club http://www.da7c.co.uk/

South Wales Austin Seven Club http://southwalesaustinsevenclub.com/ Red Cross Directory of Parts, Products and Services http://oldcarservices.co.uk/ Please note that the views expressed in this newsletter are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the Editor or the Hereford Austin Seven Club. Whilst every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of technical advice and information, the Club and its officers accept no liability for loss, damage or injury from persons acting upon the advice or information given in this publication.

HA7C Newsletter March 2019