Finding suitable art and craft activities for groups of children and youth can bequite a challenge to adult leaders. This publication is written especially for lay leaderswho teach arts and crafts in 4-H Clubs, Bible Schools, scouts, camp, and other groups.

AS a leader you will want to:

. Select activities suitable for abilities of the age group.

. Learn how to do the activity. Practice to gain experience.

. Work in groups of not more than 10 to 15 boys and/or girls. Only 4 to 5 childrenshould be in your pre-school group for art activities.

’ .Collect equipment and supplies for teaching. Boys and girls oftentimes can bring‘ supplies from home. They can furnish such items as hammers,screw drivers, news—

~ (. papers, rags, paint brushes.. Know that several activities listed for pre-school groups will be good for the six to

nine age group. These activities include modeling, string painting and print making..Realize several activities listed for other age groups may be good for a small

group of pre-school children. Included would be bird nesting shelf, spatter painting,sand casting and tie-dyeing.

.Know how to adapt any activity for the age group with which you work.

.Contact your county Extension home economics agent if you need help.

PRE-SCHOOL AGE GROUPS

Most young children go through certain children to trace around a pattern or to‘5 stages in their creative activities. For copy other work. Do not use coloring books.

example, until they are about four years old, Help them to assemble materials. Arrangewe don’t recognize children’s paintings. a suitable work space and teach boys andSometimes they just give the painting aname girls to protect clothing and work area. Awhen adults ask them about their work. At man’s old shirt is a good coverall. Thethe age of four, a child begins to draw or teacher should provide inspiration by tellingpaint or model objects that canbe recognized. a story or talking with the children about

animals and nature. Listening to music oftenThe important aspect of arts and crafts inspires a child.

for pre-school age groups is that childrenare involved in creative experiences. It The following are activities suitable fordoes not matter if they “make anything”; pre-school age children.

.. C it is more important that they enjoy the“ experience. 1. Crayon Drawing

Painting is fun if the child is free to Materials: Papers (at least 9” x 12” andexpress his own ideas. Never ask small preferably larger), may be writ-

ing paper, construction paper, newsprint,wrapping paper, paper dry cleaning bags,paper sacks opened, crayons (eight basiccolors - black, brown, purple, green, orange,yellow, red, and blue and preferably largeones)

Procedure: Keep crayons in crayon box, orpour out into a flat box lid. Put

paper on flat surface on floor or table. Ifthe paper is small put some old newspaperunder the paper. (Then if child gets out ofbounds in his motions, he won’t mark flooror table.)

Problems to expect: The child may colorother things than the

paper. The younger children need closerattention.

2. Modeling

Materials: Covered table and covered floor.Apron for child and you. Sponge

or cloth and water for cleaning. Modeling

mixture (choose one of the following):

Natural Clay

May be obtained from local art supplystore, or there may be a clay pit near yourhome where you can get your own.

Natural clay is good to use because it

is soft and easy to model. It will dry andharden if you want to keep the product. Itcan be used again. When finished, make ballsof the clay about the size of a baseball.Punch hole to the middle and fill the holewith water. Put water-filled balls in plasticbag and keep air-tight.

Colored dough

Recipe3 cups plain flour1 cup of salt1/2 to 1 cup of waterFood coloring or tempera or posterpaint, enough to tint the waterMixing bowl.

Mix flour and salt. Add food coloring towater. Add water, a little at a time, to theflour and salt. Stir together each time youadd water. Stop adding water when the mix-ture will stay together without crumbling.If it is sticky, you have added too much waterand will have to add a little more flour andsalt.

Colored dough is good to use because itis soft and easy to model. It can be usedagain if you keep the dough in a plastic bagin the refrigerator. ‘ It can be painted if youwant to keep something the child made.

Salt ceramic

Recipe1 cup salt1/2 cup corn starch3/4 cup of water, cold

Stir together in top of double boiler.Heat over low heat stirring constantly untilall of the mixture gets stiff and hangs tothe spoon. Remove from heat and putmixture on wax paper or aluminum foil to0001. This is a little more rubbery thanthe colored dough mixture. It can be usedagain if kept in a plastic bag. Products willharden in a few days if left out to dry. Itcan be painted.

Procedure: Give each child a ball of modelingmixture the size of a grapefruit.

Notes: a. Two-year-olds will pat, pound,and squeeze clay or dough. They

will not make an object you can recognize.

b. Three-year-olds may model worms,snakes, or balls. Sometimes they line theseshapes together and give them names.

0. Four-year-olds and up may make ob-jects like a bowl, bear, snowman.

d. A child’s story oftentimes will givefour or five year old children ideas andinspirations.

3. Pasting

Materials: P aste (library paste, schoolpaste, casein glue, or homemade

paste)

Homemade paste reCIpe1 cup flour1 cup cold water2 1/4 cups boiling water3/4 tsp. oil of Wintergreen or peppermintif you want to keep it from spoiling.

Mix flour and cold water. Add boilingwater and stir. Cook over low heat in doubleboiler until stiff. Remove from heat andadd Wintergreen. When cool, pour into jarwith a lid. If you don’t add Wintergreen orpeppermint, keep it in the refrigerator.

Paste container (a jar lid, coaster, orother small flat holder for a bit of paste ata time). Paste spreader (popsicle stick, twig,

plastic spoon handle, tongue depressor).Paper (any kind at least 9” x 12”, or mayuse any kind of cardboard). Collage materials(this means things to paste), scraps of clothand paper all colors and textures, beads,buttons, braid, rickrack, yarn, string, rib-bon, nature materials (leaves, seeds, flowers,pebbles, straw and other things collectedon nature walks). Apron for child andyou.

Procedure: a. Put different collage mate-rials in small lids and boxes

or dishes and set the small boxes in onelarge box lid or large bread pan. (This wayit is easier to use the remaining materialsagain. But if you can’t find enough boxes toseparate the items, just put them togetherin a large lid or flat pan.)

b. Set up a place to paste, covering floorand using floor or top of table to work.

0. Put a little of your paste in the pastecontainer. (You are doing this for a reason.The child will use all the paste he can getand will use too much if he has a whole jarat once.)

Problems to expect: Child will want to usetoo muchpaste. Young-

est ones, early three and under, may wantsome time to just feel and spread the pasteon the large paper before they are ready orwilling to put any of the materials on it.When they do start pasting, they will putlayers on top of layers of materials andfrequently end with a paste layer. With moreexperiences and with more maturity, thechild will come to paste as you probably hadexpected originally.

4. Finger Painting

Materials: Covered floor; apron for youand child; glossy paper (butcher

paper, shelf paper, or any with a shiny coat-ing at least 12” x 18”). Liquid starch;powdered tempera paint; 1 container ofwater and a sponge; and paper towels.

Procedure: a. Put one or two tablespoonsliquid starch on sheet of dry

glossy paper.

b. Sprinkle powdered tempera of desiredcolor on paper.

0. Let the child spread the paint andstarch over the paper and work as hechooses. Add other colors as desired.

d. When the child has finished, lay thepainting on dry newspapers to dry.

e. If you want to preserve the painting,after it is thoroughly dry, turn it upsidedown on the dry newspaper and press itgently with a warm iron. This will smoothout the wrinkles. It may be more permanentlypreserved by spraying with a coat of shellacor plastic or similar mixture available atart supply houses. Clean up area.

5. String Painting

Materials: Poster or tempera paint. Smallcan or jar in a holder to preventPieces of string, each about 12”

long. Paper, 9” x 12” or 12” x 18”, anykind. Pusher (something to push the stringinto the paint).

tipping.

Procedure: a. Fold a piece of paper in half,crosswise or lengthwise.

b. Open paper again and lay on it, in anyold way, the pieces of string that have beendipped into the paint. Leave end of eachstring hanging over edge of paper on any ofthe sides.

0. Fold paper over and hold it down withone hand. With the other hand pull each ofthe strings out from between the paper.

d. Open paper again and see the designmade.

e. Variations can be made by using morethan one color and by using more than onesize string.

Problems to expect: Some children lack thecoordination to hold one hand

still on the paper and to pull with the other.It is like trying to pat your head and rubyour stomach. May have trouble gettingstring from jar to paper without drippingpaint.

6. Soap Painting

Materials: Soap, glossy paper, food coloringor poster paint.

Procedure: Add small amount of water tosoap flakes or granulated soap

and whip. Apply to dry paper. Makedesign with fingers as done in finger painting.

7. Print Making

Materials: Paint pad. (Stack 20 thicknessesof old newspaper about 9” x 12”

on cardboard or pieces of wood. Wet thestack of paper, then coat top with powderedor liquid poster or tempera paint. Thismakes an “ink” pad. Don’t use a real inkpad, for it will not wash off child’s hands.)

Printer. (This can be one or more of avariety of things: a block of wood or stick;cross-section of an onion, apple, greenpepper; cross-section of carrot or Irishpotato; or design cut on an art gum eraser;bits of thick cloth or pieces of string gluedon a block.) Paper. (Any kind can be used.May want to try tissue wrapping paper forthis project.) Covered table and floor.Apron for you and the child.

Procedure: a. Stamp the printer on the padto get the printer coated withpaint.

b. Stamp the printer on the paper in adesign. Carrying the design horizonallyacross the page line after line gives arhythmical effect. Other directions createa different picture.

Problems to expect: The child who is very

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young may be mostly interested in thepaint and may choose to print his hands!That’s all right, they are washable. The

child may want to use the knife to cut hisown design in the potato. Give him a spoonor fork instead to create a design.

OTHER AGE GROUPS

WOODWORKING

1. Key Keeper gether. Have the top slope slightly towardfront. Two 5 1/2” braces set 2 1/2” from

Make pattern similar e——5‘/="—>to one shown. Saw keyshapes. A solid wood ispreferred, but 3/8” ply-wood could be used. Sand ,0.well. Stain with an oilrubbing stain. Finish with2 coats of penetratingsealer. Rub with steel .,wool between coats and ._,.._.after 2nd coat. Wax with paste wax. Usecup hooks at “X” points indicated to holdkeys.

2. Bird Nesting Shelf

Robins, catbirds, brown thrushes andcardinals like a shelf to nest on rather thana birdhouse. Make this shelf from scraplumber.

Materials: 1 board 6” x 8” (shelf); 1 board6” x 8 1/2” (roof); 1 board 6” x

6” (back); 4 supports and nails.

Procedure: Nail top, back and bottom to-

the back will give the roof the right slope.Two smaller braces may be added acrossthe corners to add strength. Finish woodwith penetrating seal. Nail shelf to treetrunk among shady branches.

3. Book Shelves

Materials: 2 or 3well-seasoned boards about9 inches wide and 36 or 48

inches long, depending on the space youhave for the shelves (plywood, 3/4 inchthick, may be used); 4 glass bricks or con—crete blocks or 10 to 16 smooth buildingbricks (if you use building bricks or con-crete blocks, paint them the color of thewalls); sandpaper - medium and fine; paintor penetrating seal to finish boards; finesteel wool.

Procedure: Rub boards lengthwise (with thegrain) with sandpaper until they

are smooth and feel like satin. Start withmedium sandpaper and finish with fine gradesandpaper. Make a holder for the sandpaperby wrapping the sandpaper around the threesides of a block of wood. Rub until youthink you can’t rub any more, then rub somemore. When you have finished the sanding,wipe the board with a dry cloth and rub itwith fine steel wool (#000). Wipe the boardagain. Paint the boards the color of wallsor woodwork or finish them in natural color.Use semi-gloss enamel paint or use apenetrating seal. See your county homeeconomics Extension agent for more direc-tions on wood finishes.

4. Book Ends

Materials: Wood blocks (5” x 6” x 2”thick); wooden molding (1/8’ ’

thick x 1” wide); tile (scrap); grout; sponge

(fine texture); white liquid glue; scrap metalfor brace (4 3/4” x 6”). Use stainless steel,aluminum, brass or copper.

Procedure: a. Prepare wood blocks by oneof these methods:

Method 1

Have areas cut 3/." to 1" (TOP ANDin block at least + BOTH SIDES)1/8” deep in Twhich tile will 6,,be inlayed. (Seesketch.) T his _.L : 1" to m"can be done by awood worker.

#— 5" __5'

Method 2

Use thin molding and frame wooden block.Tile will be inlayed inside framed area.

b. Sand wood. Use medium sandpaperand then fine sandpaper.

c. Use penetrating seal to finish woodblocks. Steel wool between coats and afterlast coat.

d. Apply glue to a small area where tileis to be inlayed.

e. Place a few tiles (or broken bits oftile) where glue was spread. Leave 1/16”space between tiles.

f. Repeat these last two steps until areais filled and let dry thoroughly.

g. Put dry grout in glass or cermaic

container. Add water. Mix to heavy creamconsistency and stir until smooth.

h. Spread grout evenly over entire sur-face. Use fingers to work grout into allspaces between tiles. Make sure there areno air bubbles.

i. Set from 10-15 minutes or until groutloses its shine. Then wipe off excess groutwith damp sponge. Grout should be justbelow top surface of tile.

j. Dry overnight.

k. Rub off any white film remaining.

1. Repeat steps h to k if necessary torepair any cracks or holes in the grout.

m. A scrap piece of metal may be nailedto bottom of book end. Felt may be glued tobottom of metal.

5. Bulletin Board

Use a piece of plywood the desired size.Cover board with colored burlap. Fabricshould be at least three inches longer andwider than board. Tack fabric to back withupholstery tacks, small enough not to comethrough. It is easier to get the cloth onstraight if you drive tacks in only part wayuntil the entire cover is fitted. The boardmay be hung framed or unframed. Paint theframe to match your desk or some color inyour room.

You could also make a bulletin board byframing 'a piece of soft insulating board.Paint or use in its natural color.

NEEDLE WORK

1. Swedish Darning - Hand Towels

Materials: Huck toweling, needle with bluntend and big eye, embroidery

thread, scissors. '

Colors: Use the same color embroiderythread as the towel. Example:

white on white, yellow on yellow, green on

green.

Procedure: Huck weaving is usually done onthe wrong side of huck toweling,

from right to left, with prominent pairs ofthreads in vertical position (finished workappears on wrong side of towel). Each pro—minent pair of threads running lengthwiseof toweling represents one stitch; work is

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done by running yarn under these two threads,but not through toweling. Another techniqueis to work on right side of huck, picking upsingle prominent threads of weave.

Material should be cut so that prominentthreads are in vertical position for working.As huck toweling varies in coarseness, gethuck suitable for type of yarn used. Do notweave on border.

To center designs and to have both sideedges end the same, find the center of huckby folding toweling lengthwise in half. Beginweaving first row at center. Work one halfof row from center to edge, leaving suffici-ent thread at center to finish other half.

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Thread needle with this end and finish otherhalf of first row in same manner. The fol-lowing rows are worked completely acrossfrom right to left.

2. Pin Cushion

Materials: 4 1/2” square of firmly wovencotton or wool fabric, needle,

thimble, thread, stuffing, and elastic.

Procedure: a. Cut a 4 1/2-inch square offabric on-grain.

b. Fold fabric with right sides together toform a triangle. Stitch 1/4-inch from theedges, leaving a 1-inch opening.

0. With help of the eraser end of apencil,turn the cushion right-side out. Stuff withwool, yarn, cotton, or little scraps of woolfabric.

d. Turn one-inch edges to the inside andsew by hand. Hide the knot between thefolds of fabric. Make stitching neat andsturdy.

e. Fasten a piece of elastic to the twoends of the cushion. The elastic should becut the right length to fit snugly around thewrist. Turn under the ends of the elasticbefore sewing it to the cushion.

3. Clothes Pin Bag

Materials: Approximately1/2 yard den-

im, broadcloth, ticking orother suitable cotton mate-rial; bias binding to match.

Fold materialin half across

narrow width. Trace shapeof hanger on unfolded end.

At top center of one side, out V shape eightinches long.

Procedure:

Bind “V” opening with bias binding. Pinfront and back together. Bind edges withbias binding.

4. Rabbit Bean Bag

Cut two pieces using pat-tern similar to one shown.On one side embroidermouth and whiskers andeyes. Pin with right sidestogether.

Stitch close to edge,leaving a small opening forinsertion of beans. Turnright side out. Fill withdry beans - just enough tomake the bag fairly firmbut not hard. Close open-ing and sew.

5. Scrap-Bag-Clown

Use a sock toe for head.Cut colorful scrap materialsinto 6” circles. Gatheraround each circle and pullstitches to tighten (thismakes a double circle tie).Make enough circles (60-70) to form legs and body.Begin at one foot pushing

. '. needle (or cut hole in circlesdand thread on elastic)W. through the body and back

through the leg. Add armsMake a cone for hat and aand head last.

ruffle for neck.

6. Sock Puppet

Procedure: a. Take one sock and cut off toe.

b. Cut the foot lengthwise as shown fromA to B to make mouth. ,

(O0. Turn sock inside out. Use contrasting

material and cut mouth to fit lengthwise out(see sketch 2).

d. Sew mouth to sock to form 2 pockets.

e. Turn the sock right side out.

SKETCH 2

SKETCH I (.

f. Insert cardboard in each mouth pocket.

g. Using embroidery thread or buttonssew or stick eyes and nose on face.

NOTE: Every sock is a different size. Thelengthwise cut in b (for the mouth and card-board pieces) will have to be cut to fit eachindividual sock.

METAL WORK ‘ g

1. Copper Tooling - Plaques or Bookends

Plaques may be tacked to 1/8” plywoodand framed. Bookends should be of woodheavy enough to hold books. Designs '-flowers, animals, Biblical scenes, etc.

Materials: Pencils, tape, designs, copper,newspapers, modeling tools or

orange sticks, spoon, and 1/2 of snap clothes-pin that has been sanded, #000 steel wool,liver of sulpher, wax, soft clay.

Procedure:

NOTE: WHEN EMBOSSING METAL FIRSTUSE MODELING TOOLS WITH VERY LIGHTPRESSURE, THEN GRADUALLY INCREASEPRESSURE.

a. Tracing the Design

1. Place metal (36 guage .005” thick)on a smooth surface of 10 to 12 layers ofnewspaper or a few layers of felt.

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2. Place design on metal and tape inplace.

3. Trace the design on the metal byusing a sharp hard lead pencil. Trace alllines using firm even pressure.back of copper to be sure each line iseasily distinguished.

4. Remove design and place it whereyou can refer to it.

b. Embossing

1. Deepen all lines (if necessary) byRetrace on

same side of metal as design was originallyretracing with modeling tool.

traced.Keep a sharp point on wooden tool.sandpaper to sharpen tool.

Hold tool as you would a pencil.Use

2. Turn metal over and place facedown on newspapers.

3. Interline the design with apsecondline just inside the first line. The interlineshould be not more than 1/32” inside thefirst line! This distance is most important!

4. Lines within the design are relinedwith a line on either side of the original line2; with lines on both sides of the originalline.

5. Lines outside of the main design,such as clouds, landscape, water, birds, etc.,should be interlined with only one line oneither side of the original line.

6. Do not make any lines on the back—ground or outside the design. This is oneerror, if made, that cannot be corrected.

7. If the spoon end of the tool issharp on the corners, round it slightly butsmoothly with sandpaper.

8. Use spoon end of modeling tool andspoon the entire design. Use very lightpressure and stroke the metal several times,but do not force the metal. Spoon the metalup to and including the lines as describedin steps 3 through 5.

9. The embossing effect is achievedby raising some areas higher than others.

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1. The rest of the work is done on asmooth hard surface. Turn copper overwith front side up. Remove newspapers.

2. Retrace the outline lines with thepointed modeling tool.

3. Flatten the background with flatwedge modeling tool or spatula. Use verylight stroke with very little pressure.

a. First, flatten any buckles usingvery little pressure at first. Work in thedirection of the buckle. Increase pressureas you work out the buckle.

b. Flatten the rest of the background.For best appearance stroke only in onedirection (very light pressure at first).

imam.1. Fill only the deeply embossed areas

in the back with modeling clay. Fill smoothlyand even with back surface. DO NOT ADDTOO MUCH CLAY SO THAT IT IS ROUND—ED ON THE BACK.

2. Clean and polish front of metalwith dry #000 steel wool.

3. Oxidizing - apply a liver of sulphersolution to copper, or 0.8. powder for anti-quing brass, with small piece of steel wool.Rub until metal turns brown. Wipe withdamp cloth and let air dry. Do not wipe dry.

4. When dry, polish the front with dry#000 steel wool until desired copper high-lights are obtained. The background isusually kept darker with highlights obtainedon the design only.

5. Brush one coat of lacquer on themetal to keep metal from oxidizing.

6. IF DESIRED, a coat of flat blackenamel (no gloss) may be brushed on thebackground. This is often used on plaques.Do not brush black enamel on design.

2. Metal Etching - See Home EconomicsSeries 16, available from the CountyExtension Office.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

1 . Tie-Dyeing

Tie-dyeing is one of the oldest methodsof decorating fabrics. Articles that may betie-dyed include scarfs, ties, pillow tops,blouse material and wall hangings.

Materials: Any washable fabric is suitablefor tie-dyeing. A light weight,

thin one seems to work best. Suitablefabrics include batiste, silk, nylon, un-bleached muslin, sateen and chiffon. Othermaterials needed are commercial dyes, heavystring or cord, newspapers and work apronsor coveralls.

Procedure: a. Select fabric.

b. Wash fabric to remove sizings. Dry.

0. Select colors of dyes to be used.Dissolve each small package of dye in onequart of water. Follow directions on dyepackage. Strain dye and store colors separ-ately in quart jars until dye is needed again.

d. Methods of Tying:

1. Tying with knots: Tie the materialon itself. Fold material so it maybe knottedin several places. Tie a knot in center andtie each corner into knots. Figure 1 No. Ashows article tied and ready for dyeing.Figure 2 shows dyed article.

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2. Tying with string:

a. Bands of color(s) - Fold materialcarefully and keep edges of fabric EVEN.With strings, tie the material at severalplaces. Figure 1 No. B shows a folded andtied article ready for dyeing. Figure 3shows the article after dyeing.

b. A band of material (rather thanstring) may be used to tie. Figure 1 No. Bshows a band tied in the center. No. D inthis same figure shows a sample tie-dyedwith a band. Note the wide design that ispossible by using a band.

c. Circles of color(s) - Fold mate-rial to make a perfect square. Fold squarein half to form a triangle. Fold in half once

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again. Tie folded material as desired. Tieclose together to form a sunburst. (SeeFigures 4 and 5.) The fabric in Figure 4was 12” square. The fabric in Figure 5was 12” x 24”; therefore, it was folded inhalf to form a perfect square.) Tie farapart to form large circles. Tie loosely toget an interesting effect. Figure 1 No. Cshows a folded and tied article ready fordyeing.

Additional Information:of the simplest and easiest crafts. Dosome tie-dyeing to learn “how”. Thenexperiment to achieve unusual designs. Al-ways fold material carefully to insure betterdesigns. Keep edges and corners even be-fore and after tying.

Tie-dyeing is one

If you (are dyeing with two or morecolors, first dye in the lightest color. Rinseand set color as directed on dye package.Dry. Continue for as many colors asdesired. Remember that a second colordye over a first color will produce a thirdcolor. It is a good idea to test a scrap of

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material (when dyeing with several colors)before dyeing your article.

2. Spatter Painting

Materials: Screen wire stretched and thumb-tacked over cigar box from which

top and bottom are removed, old toothbrush,poster paint (older children may use ink),paper, stencil - leaves, paper shapes, etc.(Older children may cut own stencils.)

Procedure: Select stencil or leaves to beused as stencil. An easy way to

cut a line stencil is to fold a straight,narrow piece of paper several times andcut folded edge as desired. For example:Fig. 1-3 shows how paper was folded twotimes to make 3 thicknesses and then foldedin half.

Fig. 3

Cover table or floor with newspaper.Place paper to be printed on newspapers.Place stencil, pattern or leaf on paper.Cover all areas not to be spattered. Layframe with wire top over design.

Place a few drops of paint or ink insmall jar (baby food jar is a good size).Tilt jar so that paint or ink rolls on side ofjar. Let paint or ink run back into bottomof jar. Wipe brush on side of jar wherepaint or ink was.

Rub toothbrush over screen to produce aspatter effect. Continue spattering untilsatisfied with the finished print. Then re-move printing frame.

The beginner should use only one color.Later two or more colors may be used forgraded tones and changes. Greeting cards,

note paper, and wrapping paper are a fewitems that can be decorated by spatterpainting.

3. German Star

tree decorations,Use for Christmaswreath, packages.

Materials: Hard, slick-finish paper of abouttwenty weight (light weight con-

struction paper may be used but is harderto work); scissors; old candles or paraffin;glitter.

Procedure: a. Cut four strips of paper 1/2”to 3/4” wide and 20” to 24”

long. All four strips should be of the samewidth and length.

b. Fold each strip in half. Cut ends at a45 degree angle.

0. Letter both ends and both sides ofstrips as A, B, C, and D.

d. Begin weaving as in Figure 1 by plac-ing strip B over strip A. Place strip C overB as in Figure 2.

6. Place strip D over C and through theloop formed by strip A. See Figure 3. Pullstrips tight. Finished step is shown inFigure 4.

f. Fold back one side of strip D (Fig-ure 5). In a clockwise direction, fold backone side of strip C, B, and A. Slip strip Athrough loop made when D was folded back(Figure 6).

g. Turn work counter clockwise onequarter turn until B and D are on bottom(Figure 7).

h. Fold strip D underneath and to the right(Figure 7). Fold D forward and up.

1. Fold right half of D over left half,and pull end through loop just above instrip C (Figure 8). Repeat with strips C,B, and A. Turn work in a counter clockwisedirection. Completed step shown in Figure 9.

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j. TURN STAR OVER. Repeat steps g,h, and 1. Figure 10 shows completed steps.

k. For center points, start with upperright strip D. Fold D back and down in a45 degree fold. Turn lower right A up andtuck in D at lower left under strip A.Figure 11.

1. Continue stepKin aclockwise directionwith strips C, B, and A. Figure 12 showsthe completed step.

m. TURN STAR OVER.k and 1.

Repeat step

n. Cut off all ends except one.

0. Star may be dipped in melted wax(old candles or paraffin). Sprinkle withglitter. Cut off remaining end.

A c Fig. IO

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4. Covered Coat Hangers

Materials: Wire coat hanger; two pieces ofplastic lace material 4 1/2 to 5

yards each (contrasting colors might beeasier for beginners).

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Procedure: a. Fig. 1 shows the positon inwhich hanger should be held

and the point where braiding should start.Find the center of both strips of lace byholding ends together and folding in half.

./ 0. Begin by bringing2 lace No. 1 behind hook of

hanger and up betweenlaces No. 2 and No. 3.Be sure to fold lace as

”9" shown in Fig. 3 so thatlace will lie flat.

b. Place the center ofboth pieces of lace acrosscenter of hook as shownin Fig. 2.

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d. Fig. 4 shows Step 3after lace has been pulledsnug. Do not pull lacetoo hard.

e. Continue braidingby bringing lace 2 aroundhook and up between laces4 and 1. Be sure to foldlace as shown in Fig. 5.Pull snug.

f. Lace 4 is nowbrought around hook andpassed between laces 3and 2 as shown in Fig. 6.Pull snug.

g. You are now backto lace 1 and the sameprocedure is repeated.

h. After eight to tenstitches are made as de—scribed, push the braidto end of hook.

i. After the hanger iscovered with braid, finishby tying abow knot aroundthe base of hook.

NOTE: Laces 1 & 4 willalways be on the left; 2& 3 on the right. Always

work with top lace, folding it to the backand up between 2 laces on opposite side,bring back to side from which you started,this becomes the bottom lace.

5 . Sand Casting

Materials: Medium coarse sand (dark ormedium in color); molding plas-

ter; plastic buckets or containers for mixingmolding plaster; wire for hook; spoons;spools; objects to make impressions insand; and shells, colored glass or pebbles toembed in the castings.

Procedure: a. Put brown paper or news-papers on surface that water

will not damage.

b. Mix water into sand until mixture willhold shape.

0. Put wet sand on paper. Sand shouldbe about 3” or 4” thick.

(1. Scoop sand from center area of sand—pile. Leave at least 1” to 1 1/2” for wallthickness. Scoop sand from those areasthat will be the casting. Make your designin the area from which you scooped thesand.

e. Remember: Areas that “go down” inthe sand will “come out” in the casting.Areas that “come up” in the sand will “godown” in the casting.

f. With your hand, firm any loose sand.

g. Mix a small amount of molding plasterinto water. Gradually keep adding plasteruntil mixture is consistency of thick cream.

h. Carefully pour plaster mixture intoyour sand mold.

i. If casting is to be hung, make a hookof wire and insert it at the top back beforeplaster hardens. If casting is very large,use 2 or more hooks.

j. Let casting harden in sand mold.If possible, let it remain in mold over night;however, it can be removed from mold within

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1 to 3 hours. The larger the casting thelonger it should remain in the mold. Thecasting may break if removed from themold too soon.

k. Let the casting dry thoroughly afterit is removed from the mold. Length ofdrying time varies. The larger and thickerthe casting, the longer it may take to dry.Humidity also determines how long it takesfor a casting to dry.

1. Use a stiff brush to brush off loosesand.

6. Treating Pine Cones

Treated pine cones may be used in afireplace to produce colored flames. Suchcones are good to use at home, for giftsand for sale.

Procedure: a. Open pine cones by heatingthem in a warm oven, or on

top of a radiator or register for about one-half hour. "

b. Dissolve in a wooden or earthen con-tainer (never use metal) one-half pound ofchemical (see below) in one-half gallon ofwater. Place pine cones in a cheeseclothbag. Dip bag in the chemical solution.Spread cones on newspapers. Dry overnight.

0. A second method is to melt someparaffin wax. Pour melted wax sparinglyover pine cones which are spread on news-papers. Before wax hardens, sift the chemi-cals into the cones.

d. A third method is to dissolve twotablespoons of powdered glue in one gallonof water. Dip pine cones into this solution.Drain cones. Sprinkle chemical on wet cones.Dry.

e. A fourth method is to dip pine conesinto self-polishing wax. Drain cones. Sprin-kle chemical on wet cones. Dry.

f. Chemicals for suggested colors: stron-tium chloride or strontium nitrate, redflame; barium nitrate, blue flame'; coppersulphate (blue stone), bluish flame; copper

chloride, green flame; potassium chloride(nitrate of potash), lavender flame; sodiumchloride (table salt), yellow flame; calciumchloride, orange flame; and lithium chloride,purple flame.

NOTE: Purchase chemicals from drugstores. Some may be available from farmsupply stores.

7. Pencil and Letter Holders

Tin cans, painted or covered, may beused for pencil holders and letter holders.

NOTE: a. Use enamel paint.

b. Cover cans with fabric, contact paper,wall paper, gift wrapping paper. Use gluefor all papers except contact.

0. Small cans (such as frozen juice orsoup cans) are good for pencil holders.Large cans (3# shortening) are good forletter holders.

8. Desk Sets

Procedure: a. Cut 1rectan-

gle of heavy cardboard‘—"‘"—“‘—’ 24” x 19”.

‘ b. Cut 2 strips ofcardboard 3” x 19”.

I Cut 2 pieces of ad-hesive backed plastic(contact) 21” x 5”.

‘3'“)

0. Cover stripswith plastic as shown.

--_-.| l’"’ --.—3

......

9. Leaf Prints

Materials: Tube of printer’s ink; 4” roller;sheet of glass, masonite or other

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(O

.

(I.

k.

smooth, hard-surfaced material (10” x12”);supply of good grade of bond paper 8 1/2” x11” (use poster board for permanent prints);supply of newspaper cut to 8 1/2” x 11”;pair of tweezers (not necessary, but helpful).

Procedure: a. Spread a thin, even film ofink on the glass plate with

the roller.

b. Place the lower surface of a fresh,unwilted leaf on the inked plate. Cover theleaf with a piece of newspaper. Carefullyapply pressure to the leaf through the news-paper with a rubbing motion (rub with fingersuntil the leaf is evenly and completely inked).Work carefully so that veins, margin andbase become completely inked.

0. Lift newspaper and discard. Removethe inked leaf with tweezers and place it,inked side down, on sheet of white bondpaper.

d. Cover leaf with piece of newspaper.Apply an even, firm pressure to the leafthrough the newspaper with a rubbing motion(or use wallpaper roller). Be sure to holdone finger firmly on the center of the leafduring the rubbing-out process.

e. Remove the newspaper. Lift the leaffrom the print with tweezers and allow inkto dry.

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f. Label with common and scientific nameand make other notations as desired.

Precautions:

Put only thin, smooth film of ink on theplate. Too much ink will smudge and causea loss of vein detail. A few trials will in-dicate the right amount of ink. The inkedplate should be rolled before starting eachprint, but fresh ink is not needed every time.

In steps 0 and d make sure leaf does notshift after it is in contact with the printsheet; hold one finger firmly on the midrib.

Obtain ink from a local print shop. One-half pint will be enough for several hundredleaf prints. A small jar with a screw topmakes a good ink container.

10. Block Printing from Vegetables

Use this technique of fabric printing fordecorations on placemats, kitchen towels,pot holders, kitchen curtains, etc. Askyour county home economics Extension agentfor the following publications:

a. “Block Printing from Vegetables,”Home Economics 62.

b. “Formulas for Mixing Colors,” HomeEconomics 63.

(O

Compiled by the Housing, House Furnishings and Creative Crafts Department

Published byTHE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

North Carolina State University at Raleigh and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating. State College Station, 1Raleigh, N. C., George Hyatt, Jr., Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. (I

12-67-5M (This publication supersedes Home Economics 17, Home Economics 77“Activities for Youth Groups”) 15‘