• INTRODUCTION 5• TECHNICAL INFORMATION 6• THE AUTHOR 10• ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 11

ONE • ODLE, PUEZ, PUTIA 15001 • Grande Cir, Spigolo Demetz 17002 • Grande Cir, Via Camerun 21

TWO • SASSOLUNGO 25003 • Punta Delle Cinque Dita, Fessura Kiene 28004 • Punta Grohmann, Normal Route 33005 • Punta Grohmann, Via Harrer-Wallenfels 36

THREE • SELLA 41006 • Prima Torre del Sella, Via Steger 43007 • Prima Torre del Sella, Via Schöber 45008 • Prima Torre del Sella, Via dei Camini 48009 • Seconda Torre del Sella, Diedri Glück and Kostner 51010 • Seconda Torre del Sella, Via Kasnapoff 55011 • Piz Ciavazes, Via Vinatzer 58012 • Piz Ciavazes, Via Irma 62013 • Piz Ciavazes, Spigolo Abram 65014 • Sass Pordoi, Via Fedele 68015 • Torre Campidel, Via Rossi 73016 • Daint De Mesdí, Via Rizzi-Tomasson 77

FOUR • CATINACCIO 81017 • Catinaccio, Via Kiene 84018 • Croda di Re Laurino, Via Eisenstecken 89019 • Roda di Vael, Via Rizzi 92020 • Roda di Vael, Via Plank + Battisti-Colli variants 96021 • Torre Edwards, Via del Gracchio 100

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FIVE • PALE DI SAN MARTINO 105022 • Anticima di Roda, Via Castiglioni-Battisti 110023 • Pala di San Martino, Gran Pilastro 113024 • Cima Pradidali, Combination of Via Soldà and Via Zonta 119025 • Torre Pradidali, Via Franceschini 124026 • Campanile Pradidali, Via Del Vecchio 127027 • Cima Val di Roda, Via Klose 131028 • Corno Smith, E Face 135029 • Torre Bettega, Via Fabbro-Bussi 138030 • Campanile Adele, Via Zagonel 141031 • Cima Wilma, Via Castiglioni-Detassis 145032 • Cima Canali, Fessura Buhl 150033 • Pilastro Sud di Cima Fradusta, Via Nel Ricordo 155034 • Figlia Picoola della Fradusta, Via Magica Bianca 157035 • Anticima sud est di Punta Centovie, Via Ad Occhi Chiusi 160036 • Pala dei Colombi, Via Traverso d’Autunno 164037 • Cima dei Lastei, Via Wiessner-Simon 167038 • Cima dei Lastei, Via Zagonel-Saxl 174039 • Campanile del Centenario, Via del Centenario 177040 • Campanile del Centenario, Via Bandus 180041 • Cima dell’Alberghet, Normal Route 182042 • Cima dell’Alberghet, Via BMZ 187043 • Cima del Coro, Via Gadenz-Scalet 190044 • Cima del Coro, Diedro Wiessner 194045 • Cima del Coro, Via Franceschini-Bianchini 198046 • Terza Torre dei Vani Alti, Via degli Argonauti 202047 • Pala del Rifugio, Via Frisch-Corradini 205048 • Pala del Rifugio, Via Gogna 211049 • Dente del Rifugio, Fessura Franceschini 215050 • Dente del Rifugio, Via Massarotto 218051 • Cima d’Oltro, Via Castiglioni-Detassis 221

SIX • AGNER 227052 • Torre Armena, Via Tissi 230053 • Pizzetto Est, SW Arête 234054 • Punta Frassené, Via Decima 237055 • Punta Frassené, Spigolo De Col 241

SEVEN • PALE DI SAN LUCANO 246056 • Seconda Pala di San Lucano, Spigolo Bien-Lagunaz 248057 • Terza Pala di San Lucano, Via del Piano Inclinato 253

• CLASSIFICATION OF ROUTES ACCORDING TO OVERALL DIFFICULTY 260

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FIRST ASCENT: G. Demetz, A. Groppello, 6 September 1936

HEIGHT GAIN: 220 m

ROUTE LENGTH: 270 m

GRADE: D max sections of 5

TIME: 4 hrs

ROCK: variable quality: a mixture of good, slightly loose, and polished sections

EQUIPMENT: nuts, cams; 2 or 3 pegs (belays not all in-situ, adequate peg runners)

SUPPORT BASES: the route is close to the road

Climbed on 25.5.2009

GRANDE CIR 2592 mSE Arête – Spigolo Demetz

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A worthwhile route with an easy approach and de-scent. However, with less than perfect rock, complex route finding, and some very exposed positions it should not be taken too lightly. The route is referred to as an “arête” but in reality it follows crack systems, walls, and slabs on the SE pillar of the Grande Cir, clearly visible from Passo Gardena. There are certainly better routes in the area and a number of possible variants, but this route retains its classic status.

APPROACHFrom Passo Gardena head directly up to the base of the S side of the Grande Cir on the track to the arrival point of the Dantercepies cable car (m 2300) and from there follow a path towards the R (20 mins).When directly below the summit, start to climb the obvious central scree gulley which starts below the gloomy Adang chimneys separat-ing the main peak from the SE pillar.Climb the steep scree or rocks just to the L of the drainage line, up the gulley as far as possible, then traverse R to reach the top of the base buttress supporting the first large yellow gendarme of the pillar. The route starts on top of the base buttress at the start of a small gulley formed by a grey pillar leaning on the wall (1TH). 45 mins from Passo Gardena.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION1) Climb the small gulley with an initial block, up to a comfortable ter-race almost on top of the detached grey pillar (a little further ahead is the sharp summit of the pillar with some jammed blocks between it and the wall). Climb the wall by the easiest line (15 m, 4+), in shallow cracks or up the featured wall of less than perfect rock, followed by a crack and small overhang (move of 4+, 1TH). Above the small overhang continue more easily to the stance (5 m, 4) not far below an obvious yellowish overhanging niche. 35 m; 3, 4, section 4+; 1TH, ST 3P.2) Climb yellow rock until almost inside the niche (move of 4+, 1P just above the stance). Ignore the rope sling at the back and climb the yel-lowish wall on the R (move of 5, 2P) on good slightly polished holds, to reach a small ledge and follow it to the R to an exposed stance. 15 m; 4+, move of 5; 3P, ST 2P.3) Slightly L of the stance climb up to a yellow niche above (1P) and

On pitch 2

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then traverse a few metres R and then climb shallow cracks directly up to the start of a nice chimney-groove. Climb this, first directly and then on good rock on the L side, taking a stance at the top of the chimney in a yellow niche. 35 m; 4, move of 4+; 1P, ST 1TH.4) Climb a yellow wall (10 m, 4+) to another larger yellow niche (1P), with an overhang above. From almost directly under the over-hang traverse L on a wall of yellowish rock (move of 4+) to reach a rib (it is also possible to traverse lower down, which looks easier). Now enter a grey chimney and climb it to the top taking a stance on a convenient spike at the start of a comfortable stony ledge. 30 m; 4, move 4+; 1P.5) Follow the stony ledge for a few metres with a view of Punta Clark. When possible, climb easily onto an wide higher stony terrace (do not follow the easy lower ledge which has some signs of passage and cairns - it descends to the nearby col between Grande Cir and Punta Clark, and provides an escape route, contouring around the N face of Punta Clark). A small easy wall (3) with some loose rock leads to a comfortable platform almost on top of the large gendarme of the SE pillar, the sharp summit of which is a little to the L. 25 m; 1 and 3; ST 3P.NB: to avoid the subsequent AB, from the higher stony terrace traverse horizontally R, around the arête and follow a small rather exposed ledge (10 m, 3, 1TH) which leads directly, with a short bridging move, to the “good ledge on the pillar” of pitch 6.6) Make a short AB of less than 10 m down into the gap between the gendarme and the SE pillar. Do not descend into the deep narrow notch below, instead stopping on a good ledge on the pillar. Follow the ledge L without difficulty (15 m, 1) almost to the end and set up a belay below a R slanting crack. 10 m AB + 15 m; 1.7) Follow the R slanting crack, which ends in a small niche (1P) below a small overhang split by a crack. An exposed traverse L on yellowish rock avoids the overhang (move 4+) and as soon as possible climb up the featured wall to a ledge and stance. 20 m; 4, move of 4+; 1P, ST 1TH.8) The original route continues to the R. An easier exit variant is de-scribed here: traverse L along the ledge, exposed but easy, passing around a rib and moving into sight of the deep Adang chimneys, taking a comfortable stance almost at the end of the ledge on a small, very exposed terrace. 20 m, 2, then 1; ST 2P.9) Climb the pleasant featured wall above by the easiest line, trending towards the R (but remaining a little L of a black niche) and arriving

Roberto Geromet on pitch 4

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under a hidden groove with crack. Climb this directly, or up the good rock and holds on the L (1P almost at the top on the L). The last few metres form a corner which is climbed with some enjoyable moves (move of 4, 1P at exit) alongside some yellow overhangs of the summit of the SE pillar to the R. Easy stony steps lead to a spacious stance on a wide ledge, 10 m below the summit of the pillar. 60 m; 3, 4; 2P, ST 2P.10) Walk easily along the ledge towards the R, without difficulty around the N side of the summit of the SE pil-lar, arriving on the other side at the col that separates it from the main peak, with memorial plaque. 25 m; 1.

Easy ground and a faint path lead to the summit of the nearby Grande Cir, with a large steel cross filled with stones.

DESCENTDescent is easy, following the path (red paint marks) down the sloping scree of the S face of the mountain with a few sections equipped with steel cables (easy ground). At the bot-tom of the slope head R down a sloping ramp with steel cable to the scree gulley below. Descend this on a path to the meadows near the start and then across these to Passo Gar-dena (40 mins from the summit).

See www.quartogrado.com for more photos.

Roberto Geromet on pitch 7

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