INSTRUCTIONS

STOP! READ THIS FIRST!

1. Test fit all parts and make sure you know how everything goes together before gluing. If

you are contemplating cutting a part to make it fit, please re-examine your assembly plan—

you’ve probably misunderstood some aspect of the design. Parts have been tested and

should fit together in a fairly straightforward manner without modification. DO NOT TRY

TO FORCE PARTS TOGETHER!

2. BE PATIENT! Do not try to glue too many pieces together at one time! Try to do small

sub-assemblies (for instance, the floor and two walls instead of 4) that can be set aside and

allowed to dry before moving on to the next step. This way, you won't have to risk destroy-

ing the model with poorly-conceived clamping schemes or overly-tight rubber banding.

3. The little tabs in the corner of floor

pieces are for alignment, not for

strength. Do not saturate them with

glue or they might distort! Glue

should be used along the wall edges

where there is a lot more surface area

to glue to.

4. Most roofs are made to be re-

moved. A few buildings have no floor

(assumed dirt floor), so if you have a

base to glue it to, go ahead and make

the roof removable. If you want it to

be free-standing and sturdy, glue the

roof truss to the middle of the top of

the side walls and at least glue at least

one roof panel in place.

5. Metal doors and windows are pro-

vided. They have interior woodwork;

the interior and exterior pieces sand-

wich the wall between them. All metal

parts require priming to paint.

6. Use white glue for most assembly;

TIPS FOR BUILDING LASER CUT MODELS

if you use superglue or a similar adhesive, be very careful not to let sticky fingers damage the model! In certain

places, you might find superglue very useful, for instance where you are trying to get a warped piece to grab and

stay straight.

7. Prime all parts with a good black hobby primer to protect the MDF and keep it from absorbing water-based

paints, which can cause swelling and warping of the material. DO NOT GET THE MDF WET, EVEN WITH

ACRYLIC PAINT, BEFORE IT HAS BEEN PRIMED.

8. You may wish to paint parts individually before assembly; this works well for small parts that are hard to paint

neatly when glued in place. Be mindful, however, of parts that fit tightly--they should not be pre-painted or they

might not fit correctly.

9. To simulate weathered wood, dry brush layers over the black primer. Start with medium brown, then a mus-

tard-brown, and a final dry-brushing of tan. For other colors, the first coat over the black primer should be one

shade darker than the desired final color. Dry brush a lighter shade in the middle of the area of color to give it

the look you see in the wargame magazines!

10. Experiment with your own assembly methods. Most of the models are fairly simple to figure out, but if you

need help, contact Knuckleduster through our website, www.knuckleduster.com.

11. Instructions for all models have or will soon be posted on www.knuckleduster.com in the downloads section

(under "information").

WARNING! CHOKING HAZARD.

This kit contains small parts; it is not a toy and must be kept

out of reach of children under the age of 3 or adults and chil-

dren at-risk of choking.

KNUCKLEDUSTER MINIATURES

PO BOX 1024

NORMAL, IL 61761

(309)838-9871

WWW.KNUCKLEDUSTER.COM

BARBERSHOP PARTS LIST

1. Floor.

2. Front wall.

3. Back wall.

4. Right side wall.

5. Left side wall.

6. Outside spare room wall.

7. Front spare room wall.

8. Spare room floor.

9. Front porch floor.

10. Front porch support rails.

11. Front porch center braces and step

supports.

12. Front porch end braces.

13. Sign.

14. False front cornice pieces.

15. False front vertical top trim.

16. Front step tread.

17. Front porch roof.

18. Front porch end supports.

19. Front porch middle supports.

20. Back steps.

21. Interior walls (2 pieces forming an

“L”).

22. Roof panel.

23. Roof panel.

24. Roof truss.

25. Spare room roof.

26. Spare room roof cleat (holds bot-

tom edge in place against wall).

METAL PARTS

Top row: interior window

frames.

Middle row: exterior windows.

Bottom row: front door, back

door, interior doors, door

frames.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

1. Glue up the basic shell of the building in stages. Don’t

try to put all the walls together at once, but rather glue

two walls to the floor, and after they dry, glue the next

set of walls in place.

2. Build porch framework. The support rails have four

braces which slot into place. The two longest braces

go in the center, and one end of them is used to sup-

port the stair treads. They also have a short peg at the

rear of the braces which slot into the front of the

building.

3. Glue the finished porch to the building, gluing the

two pegs of the center braces and the surface planking

two the front wall of the building.

4. Glue the porch roof framework. The end frames have

an additional leg which doubles as a trim piece for the

front of the building, whereas the center pieces are

simply L-shaped.

5. The rear steps have two supports that slot into the

back wall, and support the two stair treads.

6. Glue together the two interior walls and place them in

the building to form a back room.

7. Glue the metal door and window parts in place. TIP:

Instead of gluing them to the unfinished building as

shown, paint or wallpaper the wall before priming,

painting, and installing the metal parts.

8. Glue the roof truss to one side of the roof, and when the glue

has set, glue it to the other half. Be sure the truss is posi-

tioned properly during the first gluing step or the second roof

panel will not align properly!

9. The barber pole can be positioned as shown, or in the space

between the front door and the window to the right.

10. Prime with a good hobby spray-primer before painting in

order to protect the MDF and help the paint cover well. A

good-quality black hobby primer (e.g. Citadel/GW) does a

good job of getting into the etched detail, such as plank

grooves and nail holes. Review the comments regarding

painting in the Tips at the beginning of this document.

11. For the ultimate in presentation and durability, glue your

building down to a hardboard base and decorate it with sand

or flocking. This helps protect the building from excessive

handling, and allows you to add scene-setting details such as

rain barrels and watering troughs. Add more detail by using

Knuckleduster’s detail parts such as chimney pipes and inte-

rior furniture, available as separate kits.

12. As always, we’re glad to help! Contact us through the web-

site, KNUCKLEDUSTER.COM.