INSTRUCTION MANUAL OUTLINE

A Letter From The Author………………………………………………………………………………3

Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………………….4

Hand Tools, Power Tools, Fixtures, And Material Needed…………………………………5

Remodel Cost Spreadsheet……………………………………………………………………………..7

Scope Of Work:

Be Familiar With The Closest Water Supply Shut Offs……………………………8

Shut Off The Water Supply To The Whole House…………………………………..8

Install Protection On The Floors…………………………………………………………..8

Remove The Bathroom Door………………………………………………………………..9

Remove The Existing Waterlines………………………………………………………....9

Install The Shut Off Valves………………………………………………………………….10

Start Demolition……………………………………………………………………………….10

Remove The Toilet…………………………………………………………………………….11

Remove The Tub/Shower……………………………………………………………………11

Remove The Shower Door………………………………………………………………….12

Cut Drywall Back To Expose Nailing Flange………………………………………..12

Cut The Tub/Shower Into 3 Sections To Remove………………………………….12

Remove The Nails/Screws From The Nailing Flange…………………………….13

Remove The Floor Covering……………………………………………………………….13

Locate The Electrical Service Panel…………………………………………………….14

Disconnect The Existing Bathroom Light……………………………………………14

Cut Out Drywall Where Necessary……………………………………………………..14

Install Cut Outs Where All Cut Outs Were Made..………………………………..15

Install New Shower Or Shower Tub…………………………………………………….15

Order Shower/Tub Glass Doors And Vanity Mirrors……………………21

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INSTRUCTION MANUAL OUTLINE (Cont.)

Install New Flooring………………………………………………………………………….21

Stain And Seal All Woodwork Including The Vanity...................................23

Install The Vanity.........................................................................................24

` Install Trim………………………………………………………………………………………25

Install The Countertop To The Vanity…………………………………………………27

` Install Sink Faucet And Shower Faucet Trim……………………………………….29

Paint Walls And Ceiling……………………………………………………………………..30

Install Toilet……………………………………………………………………………………...32

Install Light Fixture(s), Receptacle(s), and Light Switch(es)………………….34

Install New Shower Door And Vanity Mirror……………………………………….36

Install Towel Bar(s), Toilet Paper Holder, and Grab Bar(s)…………………..36

Put Bathroom Door Back On……………………………………………………………..37

Test Everything That Was Installed……………………………………………………37

Final Cleaning………………………………………………………………………………….38

Haul Off All Debris…………………………………………………………………………..38

Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………………………39

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A LETTER FROM THE AUTHOR PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING

Dear Homeowner/Remodeler, Thank you for allowing me and my team to be part of your remodel project. A remodel can be as simple as repainting the existing walls or as extreme as gutting out the whole interior down to the framing and building it back while re-arranging the layout of the walls in the process. It is my hope, with this guideline, to prepare you for the job you are about to take on by equipping you with the knowledge that you need to do it successfully. Managing the job from beginning to end is paramount. Plan well in advance. Know exactly what you are going to do before you start and don’t vary from it if at all possible. Have your pricing for all materials you will use before you begin and get firm prices from any contractors you plan to use. If you do this and add 5-10% for unforeseen costs you should have no surprises. At the beginning of this Instruction Manual, just before the Scope of Work, there is a spread sheet that you should fill out before you begin, keep referring to it throughout the project to make sure you are staying on track. You may only be planning on doing a partial remodel. There may be more details than you need. Just use the information that applies to you and save the rest for another day. One thing that is consistent in remodeling is the proper order that things are to be done. If you don’t follow the proper order it could very easily result in a finished project that doesn’t look as good as you imagined it, it can take you more time, and it can cost you more money. Even if you at first don’t understand why I am having you do something in a particular order please do it anyway, by the time you get done you will see the reason why and be glad you followed the recommended steps. By the time you are done reading this guideline you will now if the job you are preparing to do is one that you can handle all by yourself, involve some sub-contractors, or possibly contract it all out with you being the General Contractor. My team is made up of contractors that have combined experience totaling more than 100 years. We are available to help you get started or give you advice throughout your project. If at any time you need further assistance just give us a call at (918)520-4224 we can get you set up immediately to receive the 1-on-1 help you need. Take lots of pictures throughout your project. When you are done please send me some before and after pictures. Any feedback from you would be appreciated. Best of Luck with your project. Sincerely,

John C. Young

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INTRODUCTION After 30 years a home is usually ready for some updating. With this in mind I am going to use a home that was built in the early 1980’s as a basis for this guideline. If the home you are remodeling is older than this, the steps will remain the same, only the materials you will be replacing may have changed some. If the home you are remodeling is newer than this, not much has changed, other than the styles. The home that we will be remodeling is a typical wood framed house. The home would be built on a concrete slab, crawl space, or on a basement. The interior finish is drywall with stained wood trim, doors, and cabinets. The Bathroom is equipped with a fiberglass tub/shower. Whether it is a Hall Bathroom or a Master Bathroom, although the layouts may be different, the process will be the same. It is our intention to completely remove all existing fixtures from floor to ceiling in the Bathroom and install new updated fixtures in their place. Expect the total project to take from 3-4 weeks. Depending on the extent of the remodel, your past experience, abilities, and amount of time you have daily to spend on the project will affect how much time it will take. I recommended that when doing more than one Bathroom remodel in the same house that you only do one at a time. If you have only one Bathroom in the house make sure you have an alternative in place. One suggestion would be to purchase a portable toilet (like you would use for a camping trip) and take sponge baths in the sink or ask a relative or good friend that lives nearby if you can shower at their place while the remodel is going on. If you do use a relative or friends Bathroom during the remodel make sure to thank them when you are done and get them a gift card to their favorite store or restaurant. Don’t assume that just because they say it is no bother that it isn’t. I wouldn’t want to be the cause of a riff between relatives or a friend. Determine if a permit is required to do the work. I recommend that you get a permit whether it is required or not. Check with your local City Development office or if you are rural your County Development office to find out what you need to do to secure the permit. Make sure you have the permit before starting the work. In most areas of the United States if you own the property you are working on you can do the plumbing and electrical work yourself. If you are doing the work for someone else (i.e.; as a contractor) you must use a licensed plumber and electrician. I suggest that you check to see what your local residential construction codes require. If you have a building permit, which I recommend, than a licensed plumber and electrician should be used. Use your own judgment when make this decision. Before you begin make sure you have all the tools you will need, the fixtures that you are replacing, and have the materials (or at least a list of them) available. Below are lists that have all the tools, fixtures, and materials you will need. Copy the lists. As you gather the things that you will need check them off. You will also find a list of tools and materials you will need for the individual steps as you go through them.

HAND TOOLS

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o Water Meter Key o Crescent Wrenches (various sizes) o Utility Knife o Hammer o Nail Set o Staple Gun o Hack Saw o 5 Gallon Bucket o Safety Glasses o Gloves o Putty Knife o Pry Bars (various sizes) o Phillips Head Screw Driver o Flat Head Screw Driver o Pipe Wrenches (various sizes) o Wood Chisel o Floor Scraper o Lineman Pliers o Tape Measure o Straight Edge o Carpenters Pencil o Keyhole Saw o Drywall T-Square o 12” Drywall Pan o Drywall Knives (various sizes) o Sanding Block o Speed Square o Tile Nippers o Masonry Blade for Circular Saw

o Tile Scorer o Notched Trowels (various sizes) o Grout Float o Large Sponge o Paint Brush o Paint Can Opener o Paint Stirrer o Saw Horses o Painters Tarps o Respirator Mask o Stud Finder o Drill Bits o Jig Saw o 2’ Level o 4’ Level o Chalk Box o 10 oz. Caulking Gun o Channel Locks o Open End Wrenches (various sizes) o Step Ladder o 9” Roller o Roller Pan o 1 ½ t0 3” Fine Bristled Paint

Brushes o Paint Stirrer o Electrical Wire Strippers o Feather Duster o Broom o Dust Pan

POWER TOOLS

o Screw Gun o Reciprocating Saw o Rotary Hammer o Rotary Hammer (rental) o Compressor w/air hose o Texturing Hopper

o Framing Nail Gun (rental) o Circular Saw o Miter Saw o Tile Saw (rental) o Trim Nail Gun (rental)

FIXTURES

o Shower Base o Shower Walls o Flooring o Vanity(s) o Countertop(s) w/Bowls (sinks) o Shower Faucet

o Sink Faucet(s) o Toilet o Toilet Seat o Light Fixture(s) o Fan/Light

MATERIALS

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o Brown Paper o 2” Masking Tape o Wood Shims o 3-6 ml. Clear Plastic o Staples for Staple Gun o Old Bath Towel o Shut Off Valves o Wire Nuts o ½” Mold Resistant Drywall o Drywall Compound o Drywall Tape o Fine Sandpaper o 2X4 Lumber o 3” Framing Nails (for Nail Gun) o 1 5/8” Drywall Screws o ½” Concrete Backer Board o Thinset Adhesive o Mesh Tape o Grout o Grout Sealer o Stain o Polyurethane Sealer o Door Casings o Base o Base Shoe o Chair Rail (if used) o Wainscot (if used) o Painters Rags o 3” Drywall Screws o 1 ¼” Trim Nails (for Trim Gun) o 2” Trim Nails (for Trim Gun) o 2 1/2” Trim Nails (for Trim Gun) o Panel Adhesive (if using Wainscot)

o Color Putty o 1” Drywall Screws o 100% Silicone Adhesive o Supply Lines o P-Trap(s) o Plumbers Putty o Teflon Tape o PVC Pipe Primer o PVC Pipe Cement o Painters Latex Caulking o 3/8” Roller Pad 9” Wide o Wall Primer/Sealer o Ceiling Paint o Wall Paint o White Silicone Caulking o Wax Wring (for Toilet) o Closet Bolts (for Toilet) o 4” Flexible Duct (for Vent on

Fan/Light) o Duct Tape o Weather hood o Receptacle(s) and Cover(s) o Light switch(es) and Cover(s) o Electrical Tape o Door Hinges o Door Knob o Strike Plate o Door Stop o Water & Vinegar Mix (for Cleaning) o Lemon Oil (for Trim and Vanity) o Paper Towels o Trash Bags

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Now you should know what tools you have to purchase or rent, the cost of the fixtures you will be installing, the material you will need, and the Sub-Contractors you will be using. Double click the icon below and open up the spreadsheet. Take the information you have collected and insert the costs in the corresponding boxes. There is one column for each individual Scope of Work listed in the Instruction Manual. Leave the boxes that don’t apply blank. It will automatically total it for you. By the time you have filled it out completely you will know how much to expect the Total Cost to be. Don’t forget to add an additional 5-10% to cover any unforeseen costs.

Example

Spread Sheet

Remodel Cost Breakdown Spreadsheet.xlsx

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The following scope of work is the order that should take place to do the Bathroom remodel. Please remember to follow these steps completely and heed the suggestions/recommendations that are made.

Scope of Work:

1. Be familiar with the closest water supply shut offs.

Tools you will need: A water meter key or a crescent wrench. Most of your sinks will have stops on the hot and cold supply lines that go to the faucets. Toilets will often have a shut off on the tanks supply line but it is good to know where the water shuts off to the whole house. Some homes will have a main shut off located in the house itself. This would be located where the main water line inters the house; most often this will be under a Bathroom or Kitchen sink but may also be next to the hot water tank. The most secure place to shut off the water is at the water meter itself. Before you begin any work on the project find the shut off you will use and test it by shutting the water off to the house and check all sinks, toilets, tubs, showers, and outside hose bibs to make sure that it is working properly. Supply Lines Water Meter Water Meter Key

2. It is recommended that you shut off the water supply to the whole house. If this is not possible due to others in the house needing water access then you must be very careful or you could cause major damage to the house if a leak occurs and you are unable to get it shut off soon enough.

3. Install protection on the floors leading from the work area to the exterior of

the house were the debris will be placed.

Tools you will need: Utility knife. Material you will need: Roll of brown paper and masking tape. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. By doing this you minimize the chances of damaging an area of the house that is not part of the project, saving you time and money.

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Brown Paper

4. Remove the Bathroom door. Tools you will need: Hammer, nail set, and staple gun. Material you will need: A roll of clear 3 to 6 ml. plastic, and staples. Remove the door by pulling the pins from the door hinges. This is done to protect the door from getting tore up while doing the work. In place of the door install plastic over the opening. Tape or staple the plastic to the inside wall of the Bathroom using two pieces that overlap in the middle so that they can be pulled apart in order to go in and out of the Bathroom. The plastic will create a barrier that will reduce the amount of dust that may try to escape from the work area. Pull the Pins Install Plastic over the Opening

5. Remove the existing waterlines to the faucet(s) and toilet.

Tools you will need: A water meter key, crescent wrench, hack saw, and a 5 gallon bucket. Material you will need: An old bath towel. Start by shutting off the water at the main shut off inside the house or at the water meter. Drain the waterlines by turning on the faucet, flushing the toilet, and opening an outside hose bib. Leave them open until there is no more water coming out of them. Now you should be able to cut the waterlines. Keep the 5 gallon bucket and old towel nearby just in case there is still some water in the lines. You should cut the waterlines far enough away from the wall so that new shut offs can be installed. Before going any further go down to your material supplier, whether it is a lumber yard, hardware store, or a plumbing supply house and purchase all the shut offs you will need for the project. Your waterlines whether to a faucet or a toilet should be ½ inch copper

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which would require a shut off with a compression fitting of that size. Supply lines to a faucet or a toilet are normally 3/8 inch which would require a shut off that is equipped with threads to receive a supply line of the same size. A ¼ turn shut off valve is recommended, they are easier and quicker to shut off than one that requires multiple turns to shut off. If your waterline is something other than copper, say PEX for instance, check with your supplier to make sure that the shut off you use will work on the particular waterline material you have.

6. Install the shut off valves for the faucet(s) and the toilet.

Tools you will need: Water meter key, and 2 crescent wrenches. Material you will need: 3 shut off valves. Follow the shut off valve diagram below or the instructions on the shut off valve box to ensure proper instillation. Once they have all been installed make sure they are turned to the off position. Also, make sure the shower valve is still in place and turned to the off position. With one person in the Bathroom to look for leaks slowly turn on the water supply. If a leak is seen turn the water supply off immediately. If you feel that you can fix the leak yourself than make the necessary adjustments and repeat the testing process. At this point if there is still a leak it would be a good idea to call a plumber to correct the problem. Once all leaks have been eliminated it is OK to leave the water supply on when you are not working on the project.

Shut Off Valve Diagram

7. Start demolition by removing the fixture that is closest to the door. In most cases this is the mirror, vanity, and countertop.

Tools you will need: Safety glasses, gloves, putty knife, utility knife, screw gun, pry bar, and hammer. Remove the mirror. If it is fixed to the wall with an adhesive be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. Gently tug on the mirror. If you are able to get movement by doing this keep applying pressure a little bit more each time. If you are able to get it pulled away enough slide a putty knife or other flat object behind the glass where the adhesive is and try to relieve it. Take your time and the mirror will eventually come free. Remove the countertop. Cut any caulking that may be between the countertop and the wall using a utility knife. If there are side splashes remove them first by inserting a putty knife or other flat object between the wall and the splash. If you pry against the wall make sure you do it against a stud or you will more than likely put a hole in the

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drywall causing another patch that will need to be done. If it is a solid surface countertop it is probably not fixed to the vanity itself and can just be lifted out. If it is a laminate top than it is probably fixed to the vanity with screws from underneath up into the countertops backing. These will need to be removed. Remove the vanity. Cut any caulking that may be between the vanity and the wall using a utility knife. The vanity will be either nailed or screwed to the wall. Remove the nails/screws and remove the vanity.

8. Remove the toilet.

Tools you will need: A crescent wrench, 5 gallon bucket, and an old bath towel. Flush the toilet to make sure all of the water is out of the tank. Unhook the supply line (supply tube) from the tank. Have a 5 gallon bucket and at least one old bath towel available. Use the towel to remove any water that is left in the bottom of the tank. Remove the two bolts (closet bolts) that attach the toilet to the floor. Lift the toilet off of the floor and set it on top of the 5 gallon bucket. While one person steadies the bucket the other person should tilt the toilet from front to back until all the water has been drained from the bowl. Now you should be able to carry the toilet out without leaving a trail of water.

Toilet Diagram

9. Remove the Tub/Shower.

Tools you will need: A phillips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, crescent wrench, and a pipe wrench. First take all the trim pieces off of the tub/shower faucet, this will include the faucet handle, protective ring behind the faucet handle, the tub faucet, the shower head, the overflow drain cover, and the shower floor drain.

Tub/Shower Faucet

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10. Remove the shower door.

Tools you will need: A utility knife and a phillips screwdriver. If the tub/shower is equipped with a glass door it needs to be removed at this time. Cut the silicone around the perimeter of the shower door frame. Remove the glass sliding doors by lifting them up and removing them from the track. Remove the screws were the frame has been fastened together and attached to the tub/shower. Disassemble the frame.

11. Cut drywall back to expose nailing flange.

Tools you will need: A utility knife, hammer, and a wood chisel. Since we will be removing a fiberglass tub/shower it is important to cut the drywall back approx. 1 ½ inches around the perimeter of the tub/shower in order to expose the nailing flange. Remove the drywall using the hammer and wood chisel. Most generally the tub/shower that you are removing was installed while the house was being built. Because of this to remove it now in one piece is highly unlikely. At this point you will have to remove it in pieces.

Nailing Flange

12. Cut the tub/shower into 3 sections to remove.

Tools you will need: A reciprocating saw. Using the reciprocating saw cut the tub/shower horizontally at the base of the shower wall panel so that the tub is now separated from the shower wall panel. Next cut the

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shower wall panel into 2 equal pieces by making a vertical cut down the middle of the wall panel.

Reciprocating Saw

13. Remove the nails/screws from the nailing flange.

Tools you will need: A hammer, small pry bar, and a screw gun. If nails were used to attach the tub/shower to the framing use a hammer and small nail bar to pull the nails. If screws were used than a screw gun should be used to remove the screws. Once the nails/screws are removed the tub/shower should be ready to come out. Remove the shower walls first and then the tub. The tub will have to be lifted up from one end until it is vertical in order to remove it in one piece. If the framing is too tight the tub may have to be cut in half in order to remove it. At this point haul off all debris related to the shower demo.

14. Remove floor covering.

Tools you will need: Utility knife, hammer, pry bar, rotary hammer, floor scraper. Cut along top of base (trim) where it has been caulked to wall. Remove base with a flat pry bar making sure that you are on top of a stud when you pry so that no damage is done to the drywall. If the floors are ceramic tile, or some other hard surface material you will probably need to rent a rotary hammer to get them up off of the sub-floor. If the floor covering is a vinyl then a floor scraper will work. If the Bathroom is built on a crawl space or above a basement than once the entire floor covering is off the sub-floor should be checked for damage, especially were the tub/shower, toilet, and vanity were setting. If any damage is found cut out all bad areas and patch in with new sub-floor by using sub-floor adhesive and screws to attach it to the floor framing. A treated plywood the same thickness as the existing plywood is recommended but not necessary when doing repairs in wet areas.

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Rotary Hammer Floor Scraper

15. Locate the Electrical Service Panel. The Electrical Service Panel is most commonly located in the Garage or Utility Room of a house. In some older homes it may be centrally located on the wall of a Closet that is usually located near the back side of the house. Find the breaker(s) in the service panel that shuts off electricity to the Bathroom light, fan, and to any receptacles that are located in the Bathroom. Flip the breaker(s) to the off position.

Electrical Service Panel

16. Disconnect the existing Bathroom light.

Tools you will need: Lineman pliers. Material: Wire nuts. After the light fixture has been removed attach wire nuts to the exposed ends of the wires.

Wire Nuts

17. Cut out drywall where necessary to allow for plumbing and electrical changes.

Tools you will need: Tape measure, straight edge, carpenters pencil, utility knife, and key hole saw (for cutting drywall).

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If there is going to be changes to the layout of the Bathroom fixtures this is the time to do it. Cut out only enough drywall to allow the plumber or electrician to make changes. It is recommended that you use a licensed plumber and electrician to make any changes that will be behind the walls.

18. Install drywall where all cut outs were made.

Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, drywall T-square, utility knife, screw gun, drywall pan, drywall knives, sanding block, compressor, air hose, and texturing hopper. Material you will need: Mold resistant ½” drywall, drywall screws, drywall compound, drywall tape, fine sandpaper. Replace drywall were it was removed for changes. Use a mold resistant drywall the same thickness as the existing (it should be ½ inch). You may want to apply a panel adhesive to the framing material before attaching the drywall to it, this is not necessary if you properly attach the drywall with drywall screws. Fasten to wall using 1 5/8 inch drywall screws. Tape and mud the joints. Fill the nail holes. After all the drywall mud is completely dry sand smooth. If Bathroom has texture on the walls then you need to texture the walls to match. Here is a video that takes you step by step through the process: http://www.5min.com/Video/Installing-and-Finishing-Drywall-140302865, this may be more information than you need, just use the part(s) that apply to you. If you do not feel comfortable doing the drywall repairs there should be plenty of good drywall finishers available in your area that will do the patching for you. 12” Drywall Pan Drywall knives

Sanding Block Texturing Hopper

At this point all demolition work has been done and you are ready to start putting your Bathroom back together. These 1st 13 steps should take around 3 days to complete.

19. Install new shower or shower/tub. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, speed square, compressor, air hose, framing nail gun, circular saw, and miter saw.

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Material you will need: Framing materials (2X4 or greater), 3” framing nails for nail gun. Before the new shower or shower/tub is installed it may be necessary to install 2X4 or greater, backing in the wall where the new shower doors will be attaching, grab bars may be placed, and/or where a soap and shampoo caddie may be located. There are several options available for your new shower or shower/tub. I have chosen the 5 most common and will go through them individually since the scope of work is a little different for each of them. Installing a tub or a shower pan is a critical phase of the Bathroom remodel. If the drains are not connected correctly or the tub or shower pan is damaged in the installation and goes undetected it could be very costly to have to pull and replace it after more work is completed. Speed Square Framing Nail Gun

Circular Saw Miter Saw

Shower/tub remodel kit. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, screw gun, drywall T-square, utility knife, drywall pan, drywall knives, sanding block, compressor, air hose, texturing hopper (if texture is needed). Materials you will need: Shower/tub remodel kit, 1 5/8” drywall screws, ½” mold resistant drywall, drywall compound, drywall tape, and fine sand paper. This option is not one I would recommend because it would not be considered an upgrade. It is most commonly used when replacing a shower/tub that has been damaged but an upgrade is not desired. The kit comes in 3 to 4 pieces, depending on the model. Unless you have previous experience it should be installed by a licensed plumber since it is considered a critical phase of the Bathroom remodel. Once the new shower/tub is in place and the tub and shower walls have been secured to the framing (by using screws through the nailing flange) fill the drywall back in around the flange. Tape, mud, and texture/sand were the drywall was filled in.

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Shower/tub Remodel Kit

Fiberglass tub with tile walls. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, utility knife, putty knife, staple gun, screw gun, tile nippers, circular saw with a masonry blade, tile saw, tile scorer, notched trowel (notch size will be determined by the size of tile being used), grout float, 5 gallon bucket, large sponge, drywall T-square, drywall pan, drywall knives, sanding block, and a compressor, air hose, and texturing hopper (if texture is needed).

Tile Nippers

Masonry Blade Tile Saw Tile Scorer

Notched Trowel Grout Float Large Sponge

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Materials you will need: 3 ml. plastic, staples for staple gun, ½” concrete backer board, 1 5/8” screws, thin set adhesive, mesh tape, wall tile, grout, grout sealer, ½” mold resistant drywall, drywall compound, drywall tape, and fine sand paper. Unless you have previous experience the tub should be installed by a licensed plumber since it is considered a critical phase of the Bathroom remodel. Install a 3 ml. plastic membrane to the studs using staples to hold it in place. This should be placed in all areas where tile will go on the walls. This will serve as a moisture barrier. Now you are ready to have the tub installed. Once the tub has been set in place, fill in the walls above the tub using a type of concrete backer board. This will give the tile a good backing to be attached to. Install the tile, after it has set up grout. After the grout has cured apply a grout sealer. For detailed instructions on installing shower wall tile watch the following video: http://www6.homedepot.com/tv/hdtv_player.html?videoID=000617 this will guide you through the process from start to finish. Once the tile is completed make any necessary drywall repairs around the perimeter of the shower walls and tub.

Tub with Tile Walls

Fiberglass shower pan with tile walls. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, utility knife, putty knife, staple gun, screw gun, tile nippers, circular saw with a masonry blade, tile saw, tile scorer, notched trowel (notch size will be determined by the size of tile being used), grout float, 5 gallon bucket, large sponge, drywall T-square, drywall pan, drywall knives, sanding block, and a compressor, air hose, and texturing hopper if texture is needed. Materials you will need: 3 ml. plastic, staples for staple gun, ½ “ concrete backer board, 1 5/8 screws, thin set adhesive, mesh tape, wall tile, grout, grout sealer, ½ “ mold resistant drywall, drywall compound, drywall tape, and fine sand paper. Unless you have previous experience the shower pan should be installed by a licensed plumber since it is considered a critical phase of the Bathroom remodel. Install a 3 ml. plastic membrane to the studs using staples to hold it in place. This should be placed in all areas where tile will go on the walls. This will serve as a moisture barrier. Now you are ready to have the shower pan installed. Once the shower pan has been set in place, fill in the walls above the shower pan using a type of concrete backer board. This will give the tile a good backing to be attached to. Install the tile. After the tile adhesive has set up it can be grouted. After the grout has cured apply a grout sealer. For detailed instructions on installing shower wall tile watch the following video: http://www6.homedepot.com/tv/hdtv_player.html?videoID=000617 this will guide you through the process from start to finish. Once the tile is completed make any necessary drywall repairs around the perimeter of the shower walls and shower pan.

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Fiberglass Shower Pan with Tile Walls

Solid surface shower pan with tile walls. There are many types of solid surface shower pans that are available. The one that I recommend is made by The Onyx Collection. I like it because it is very durable, easy to clean, and comes with a life time warranty. They also have a large color selection, textures, finishes, and accessories. You can visit their website at: http://www.onyxcollection.com/ to get more information and to see all the bathroom products they have to offer. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, utility knife, putty knife, staple gun, screw gun, tile nippers, circular saw with a masonry blade, tile saw, tile scorer, notched trowel (notch size will be determined by the size of tile being used), grout float, 5 gallon bucket, large sponge, drywall T-square, drywall pan, drywall knives, sanding block, and a compressor, air hose, and texturing hopper (if texture is needed). Materials you will need: 3 ml. plastic, staples for staple gun, ½ “ concrete backer board, 1 5/8” screws, thin set adhesive, mesh tape, wall tile, tile spacers, grout, grout sealer, ½ “ mold resistant drywall, drywall compound, drywall tape, and fine sand paper. Unless you have previous experience the shower pan should be installed by a licensed plumber since it is considered a critical phase of the Bathroom remodel. Install a 3 ml. plastic membrane to the studs using staples to hold it in place. This should be placed in all areas where tile will go on the walls. This will serve as a moisture barrier. Now you are ready to have the shower pan installed. Once the shower pan has been set in place, fill in the walls above the shower pan using a type of concrete backer board. This will give the tile a good backing to be attached to. Install the tile. After the tile adhesive has set up it can be grouted. After the grout has cured apply a grout sealer. For detailed instructions on installing wall tile watch the following video: http://www6.homedepot.com/tv/hdtv_player.html?videoID=000617 this will guide you through the process from start to finish. Once the tile is completed make any necessary drywall repairs around the perimeter of the shower walls and shower pan.

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Solid Surface Shower Pan with Tile Walls

Solid surface shower pan with solid surface walls. There are many types of solid surface shower pans and walls that are available. The one that I recommend is made by The Onyx Collection. I like it because it is very durable, easy to clean, and comes with a life time warranty. You can visit their website at: http://www.onyxcollection.com/ to get more information and to see all the bathroom products they have to offer. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, utility knife, screw gun, drywall T-square, drywall pan, drywall knives, sanding block, and a compressor, air hose, and texture hopper (if texture is needed). Materials you will need: ½” mold resistant drywall, 1 5/8” drywall screws, drywall compound, drywall tape, and fine sandpaper. Unless you have previous experience the shower pan should be installed by a licensed plumber since it is considered a critical phase of the Bathroom remodel. Once the shower pan has been set in place, fill in the walls above the shower pan with ½” mold resistant drywall. This will give the solid surface walls a good backing to be attached to. Now you are ready to install the walls. If you have chosen The Onyx Collection products for your shower go to: http://www.onyxcollection.com/pdf/InstallShowerPanels.pdf to get the installation instructions. Once the walls have been installed make any necessary drywall repairs around the perimeter of the shower walls and shower pan.

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Solid Surface Shower Pan with Solid Surface Walls

20. Order shower/tub glass doors and vanity mirror. Once the shower walls have been set it is a good idea to have a glass company come out and measure the opening so that the proper sized shower doors can be ordered. You will need to make a decision on the type of glass you want to have used and whether or not you want frameless or framed shower doors. The glass company you select should be able to supply you with the different types of glass that are available and the cost you should expect to pay. Since the glass has to be tempered after it has been sized it is best to have this done ASAP (once the shower walls are up). The tempering process usually takes about 10 days which makes the doors one of the very last thing to be installed. If you plan to use a mirror that is attached to the wall or one that you plan to build a custom frame around, it is a good idea to have the glass company get the measurements while they are there. That will save them an extra trip out and they can install the mirror at the same time as the shower doors.

21. Install new flooring. Choose your tile and grout. Figure out how many square feet of tile you will need by taking the length of the bathroom floor in feet by the width of the bathroom floor and adding then adding 5% for waste (Length x Width=Sq. Ft.+5%=Total Sq. Ft. of floor tile needed). In a wet area I would highly recommend using a tile that has a textured surface. There are many ceramic tiles that work well for bathroom floors. You want to avoid any slick surfaced tile unless they are labeled as being skid resistant. The best sized tile to use on a bathroom floor is one that is between 8X8 to 16X16 depending on the size of the bathroom. The bigger you go the better, just be sure that you don’t go so big that it isn’t pleasing to the eye. Larger tile means less grout lines which mean less maintenance.

Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, utility knife, putty knife, screw gun, tile nippers, circular saw with a masonry blade, tile saw, tile scorer, notched trowel (notch size will be determined by the size of tile being used), grout float, 5 gallon bucket, large sponge.

Material you will need: ½” concrete backer board, 1 5/8” screws, thin set adhesive, mesh tape, floor tile, tile spacers, grout, grout sealer.

Choose the pattern you will use to lay the tile. Depending on the design you are going for there are several different designs that you could use. The most common are straight, brick, or a diagonal pattern

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Straight Brick Diagonal

Choose the size of grout line you will use. Grout lines can vary. There is no set size it is more of a personal preference. Grout lines can be anywhere from 1/16th of an inch up to 1/4th of an inch. The bigger the floor tile the harder they are to level, depending on how flat and level your sub-floor is. When using larger tile (12X12 or larger) it is better to use a 3/16 to ¼ inch grout line so that you can hide some of the inconsistencies that may exist in the sub-floor or the tile themselves.

Choose the proper type of adhesive to use. Once you have chosen your tile ask your supplier what they recommend you use for an adhesive and go with their recommendation.

Apply a coat of self leveling thin set. Whether you are laying your tile on underlayment or directly on a slab it is a good idea to apply a coat of self leveling thin set. This will take any imperfections out of the floor. Once the thin set has completely set up take a flat scraper and knock down any edges that may exist. When you are done you need to sweep the floor clean.

Install underlayment. If you are laying tile over a crawl space or basement I suggested that you first install an underlayment, such as, concrete backer board. When installed properly the underlayment will make the floor more rigid and less likely to give after the tile is installed. If the floor gives it can cause the tile or grout lines to crack and/or come loose. If you are laying the tile on a slab no underlayment is required.

Concrete Backer Board

Install floor tile. Install the floor tile using the suggested adhesive and using spacers to keep the grout lines consistent. Make sure that the tile that is laid around the toilet flange is close enough and level so that the bottom of the toilet will set firmly on the tile when it is installed.

Grout the tile. Once the tile adhesive has set up you can grout the floors. When the grouting is complete make sure to go over the floors several times with a wet sponge to get up the entire grout residue.

Seal the floors. After the grout has cured you can apply a grout sealer. This is strongly recommended. A good sealer will keep the grout looking like new and also protect your floors.

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For detailed instructions on installing floor tile watch the following videos: http://www6.homedepot.com/tv/hdtv_player.html?videoID=000611and http://www6.homedepot.com/tv/hdtv_player.html?videoID=000610.

22. Stain and seal all woodwork including the vanity. All woodwork that is being

installed needs to be stained and sealed before it is installed. This would include all base, door casings, base shoe (to go around bottom of vanity), chair rail (if applicable), wainscot (if applicable), and the vanity (unless it came already finished).

Tools you will need: Paint brush, paint can opener, paint stirrer, saw horses, and painters’ tarp. Materials you will need: Stain, polyurethane sealer, vanity, all applicable trim (i.e.; door casings, base, base shoe, chair rail, etc.), and painters’ rags. If you are matching existing woodwork and you no longer have any of the stain and sealer left you will need to take a piece of your existing woodwork (such as: a piece of trim or a cabinet door) down to your local paint store and ask them to match it for you. Once you have the stain and sealer you need place all of the trim you will be finishing on saw horses. Keep in mind that the temperature should be 60 degree or warmer to achieve best results when applying stain and sealer. Make sure that you put a painter’s drop cloth or some type of protective barrier down on the area you are staining over since staining can be a very messy process. Also, set your vanity in a position that you can get to all sides that need stained. Pull the drawers out so that they can be stained and open the doors and tape off the hinges. Base and Base Shoe Door Casings

Chair Rail with Wainscot Vanity

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Apply the stain. I would suggest wearing latex gloves while doing this. Use a bristled or foam brush going with the grain of the wood. Let the stain set for several minutes before wiping it off. Wipe the stain off with white painter’s rags. If the wood didn’t absorb as much of the stain as you wanted wait 3-4 hours and apply another coat. Repeat again if necessary. Once you get the trim and vanity to match the existing wood work let it set for another 3-4 hours before you apply any sealer. Apply the sealer. There are many different types of sealers such as: polyurethane, varnish, and lacquer. All work as good sealers that leave you with a good protective coating. Polyurethane and varnish can be brushed or sprayed on while lacquer does best when it is sprayed on. I would suggest for smaller projects like this to use sprayed polyurethane which you can purchase in a spray can at your local paint store. Make sure you wear a respirator mask when working with polyurethane.

Respirator Masks

Apply your first coat and let it dry for the recommended amount of time. The products direction label will tell you how long to wait between coats. Apply a 2nd coat. After it has completely dried use a fine steel wool or a superfine sanding pad and go over all of the surfaces you are finishing. This should be done lightly so that you don’t go through the sealer. This will make the final product smooth and attractive. Apply the 3rd and final coat. Steel Wool Sanding Pad

Staining and sealing can be a difficult process, if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself consider hiring a professional painter to do it for you.

23. Install the vanity.

Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, stud finder, utility knife, screw gun, drill bits, jig saw, 4’ level, and a 2’ level. Material you will need: 3” drywall screws, and shims. Set the vanity where it will go but away from the wall so that you will have access between the back side of it and the wall. Using a stud finder locate the studs that will be behind the vanity. Mark the location of the studs on the back band of the vanity. There should be a back band at the top edge of the vanity and possibly at the bottom edge of the

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vanity. Pre-drill the back band where the vanity will be attached to the wall. If the vanity has a back on it you will also need to mark where the drain line(s) and the water supply lines will be located and cut holes in back of the cabinet large enough to allow the plumbing to go through.

Stud Finder

Set the vanity in place. Move the vanity against the wall, placing it exactly where it needs to go. Put your level across the top of the vanity and check it from front to back and from side to side. If necessary put shims under the edge of the vanity until it is level.

Shims

Attach the vanity to the wall. Using 3” drywall screws attach the vanity to the wall through the pre-drilled holes in the back band. Cut any shims, used for leveling, off flush with the edge of the cabinet.

24. Install trim.

Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, speed square, pneumatic trim nailer, hammer, nail set, chalk box, caulking gun, air hose, compressor, 2’ level, and a 4’ level. Material you will need: 1 ¼” trim nails, 2” trim nails, 2 ½” trim nails (if installing wainscot), panel adhesive (if installing wainscot), and color putty.

` If you have a pneumatic trim nailer this will work best. It is a lot quicker and makes the final product neater. If you don’t have a pneumatic trim nailer you will have to use a hammer and a nail set to drive and set your nails.

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Pneumatic Trim Nailer Hammer and Nail Set

Chalk Box Color Putty

Using a stud finder locate a stud that you can use as a point of reference to locate the rest of the studs. Most typically studs in a house are placed 16 inches on center. Occasionally you will find a house that the studs have been placed 24 inches on center. Once you have determined whether they are 16 or 24 inches on center, you will know where you can find a stud to nail to. Install door casings. Install the casings in the same manner as the existing door casings, keeping the same amount of reveal between the edge of the door jamb and the casing. Attach with trim nails. If hand nailing set your nails, being careful not to scar your new wood work. Install the wainscot. If you are Installing wainscot do it now. Determine how high you want it to go up the walls. I would suggest that you keep the height at least 3 inches below the height of your vanity so that once you place the chair rail on top of it you don’t interfere with the counter top. Once you have done this cut it 1 inch shorter than your desired height. For instance, if you want it to go up 29 inches on the wall you should cut it 28 inches in length. Cut enough to go around the whole area you plan to install it. Using a chalk box snap a line on the wall at the desired height. Depending on what type of material you are using you will want to install it with an adhesive, nail it on, or both. Mark the middle of a stud on the wall. Put your level on this mark and plumb it down to the floor. Mark this line with a pencil. Attach your first piece of wainscot by holding the top even with the chalk line and as close as possible to your plumb line. Use adhesive/and or nails to attach it. Attach the remaining pieces of wainscot the same way cutting around obstacles as necessary. If hand nailing set your nails, being careful not to scar your new wood work.

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Install the chair rail. If you are installing chair rail do it now. If wainscoting was used set the chair rail down on top of the wainscot. If your chair rail is notched out on the bottom so it can be set down over the wainscot, install it that way. Attach with trim nails making sure that you are hitting the studs with your nails. If hand nailing set your nails, being careful not to scar your new wood work. Install base. If wainscoting was used set the base on top of the wainscot and as tight as possible to floor. Attach with trim nails making sure that you are hitting the studs with your nails. If hand nailing set your nails, being careful not to scar your new wood work. Fill all nail holes. Using colored nail hole putty fill nail holes in all the trim that was installed. Make sure that you use a rag to get all the excess off of the woodwork. Your paint supplier should be able to get you color putty that matches your stain color.

25. Install the countertop to the vanity. Most common types of vanity countertops are laminate or solid surface. I would not recommend the laminate countertop due to its lack of durability in a wet area. Some of the most common solid surface countertops are cultured marble, granite, and The Onyx Collection. Laminate Cultured Marble

Granite The Onyx Collection

Laminate countertop instillation. Tools you will need: Carpenters pencil, tape measure, screw gun, caulking gun, bucket of water, a rag, sink cut out template, and jig saw. Material you will need: 1” drywall screws, 100% silicone, 2” masking tape.

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Sink Cut Out Template Jig Saw

Your countertop should overlap your vanity a minimum of ¾ inch from side to side and a minimum of 1 inch on the front. This will help protect the vanity from water that may spill over the countertop from time to time. Set the countertop on the vanity. Make sure that you have the same amount of overhang from side to side. If the vanity and the countertop will butt up to a wall on one end you should push the countertop as tight to the wall as you can. Once you have the countertop in place have one person apply pressure down on the countertop while the other person screws the countertop to the vanity from the bottom side using the corner brackets. If a side splash is used attach it to the wall using 100% silicone adhesive on the back side. Press it firmly to the wall. Use enough adhesive to adequately attach the side splash but not so much that the adhesive squeezes out around the side splash. If this happens clean the excess off immediately using a wet cloth (paint will not stick to a silicone adhesive). Corner Brackets Side Splash

Determine where the sink(s) will set. Using the sink cut out template mark where the countertop needs to be cut out for the sink(s) to drop into. Apply masking tape around the outer side of the cut out line. This will protect the countertop from scratching when you cut it. Cut the vanity top using a jig saw. Put masking tape on the bottom of the jig saw this also will protect the countertop from being scratched when you cut it. Install the sink(s) by following the instillation instructions that come with the sink(s). Cultured marble or The Onyx Collection countertop instillation. Tools you will need: Tape measure, caulking gun, bucket of water, and a rag. Material you will need: 100% silicone caulking. Your countertop should overlap your vanity a minimum of ¾ inch from side to side and a minimum of 1 inch on the front. This will help protect the vanity from water that may

spill over the countertop from time to time. Place 100% silicone adhesive around the top lip of the vanity. Set the countertop on the vanity. Make sure that you have the same amount of overhang from side to side. If the vanity and the countertop will butt up to a wall on one end you should push the countertop as tight to the wall as you can.

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Once you have the countertop in place apply some pressure to the countertop in order to make sure it is well seated into the adhesive. If a side splash is used attach it to the wall using 100% silicone adhesive on the back side. Press it firmly to the wall. Use enough adhesive to adequately attach the side splash but not so much that the adhesive squeezes out around the side splash. If this happens clean the excess off immediately using a wet

cloth (paint will not stick to a silicone adhesive).

Top Lip of Vanity

Granite countertop Instillation. A granite countertop is, most often, installed by the company that makes the top. Granite countertops have to be fabricated from a slab of granite at a local fabrication shop. If you are going with an under mount sink application then the sink hole has to be cut out, the edge polished, and the sink attached before it can be installed. Most fabricators include the cost of instillation in there price. I would recommend that you let them do the instillation.

Under mount Sink

26. Install sink faucet and shower faucet trim. All faucets are different, because of this you should go by the installation manual that comes from the manufacturer when installing. Make sure you have all the necessary tools and plumbing supplies you will need before you begin. Tools you will need: Tape measure, carpenters pencil, channel lock pliers, 2-crescent wrenches, hack saw, and various sized open end wrenches. Material you will need: Supply lines, p-traps, plumbers putty, teflon tape, pvc pipe primer, and pvc pipe cement.

Channel Lock Pliers Open End Wrenches P-trap

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Plumbers Putty Teflon Tape PVC Pipe Primer

PVC Pipe Cement

Sink faucet. Once the faucet is attached to the sink/countertop attach the supply lines. Once the supply lines have been attached hook up the p-trap to the drain line and then to the sink drain. Make sure all shut off valves are turned off and the shower valve is in the off position. Turn the water supply line on. Make sure the faucet handle is in the off position. Now you can turn the shut off valves to the sink faucet on. Check for leaks. If none are present turn the faucet handle on and check to make sure the hot and the cold sides are both working. Check the drain lines. If there are any leaks try to locate and fix them. If the leak continues turn the shut off valves to the sink off and consult a plumber. If there are no leaks put the pop-up stopper in the closed position and let the sink fill up with water. Once it is full put the pop-up stopper in the open position and check the drain lines one more time. If there are any leaks try to locate and fix them. If any leaks continue consult a plumber.

Shower faucet trim. Make sure the water supply line has been turned off before you start to install the trim. Once all trim pieces are on turn the water supply line on and check for leaks. If none are present turn the shower faucet handle on and check to make sure the hot and the cold sides are both working. If there are any leaks try to locate and fix them. If the leak continues turn the water supply line off and consult a plumber.

27. Paint walls and ceiling. Make sure you have all the tools and material you will need

before you begin.

Tools you will need: Step ladder, painters tarp(s), 10 oz. caulking gun, 9” roller, roller pan, 1 1/2” to 3” fine bristled paint brushes, paint stirring stick, and paint can opener. Materials you will need: 2” blue painters tape, painters latex caulking, painters rags, 3/8” roller pad 9” wide, primer, ceiling paint, and wall paint.

Lay down painters’ tarps. It is necessary to protect your new floors. By covering the complete floor area with painters’ tarps you will save yourself a lot of unnecessary clean up and eliminate the risk of permanently scaring your floors.

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Tape off around woodwork, vanity, countertop, and shower. Use blue painters tape and tape off around all woodwork, vanity, countertop, and shower areas that come in contact with the walls that you are painting. Don’t put the tape up against the wall. Leave a little reveal between the tape and the wall so that any cracks that exist can be filled with caulking. Painters Latex Caulking Tape Off

Caulk around woodwork, vanity, countertop, and shower. Fill in between walls

and where you taped off with painters’ latex caulking. Make sure that you use enough caulking that all cracks are filled but not so much that you can’t wipe the excess off without making a mess. Dampen your finger with water and run it along the caulking applying just enough pressure that you get a good smooth finish. Immediately wipe off any excess gotten on the walls. Keep a damp painters rag close by when you apply caulking.

Prime/seal ceiling and walls. Use an interior water based primer/sealer. Stir primer well before using.

Using your brush primer all inside and outside corners including where ceiling and

walls meet. Also, brush where trim & walls meet and around all light switches and receptacles. Using your roller primer the ceiling first and then the walls.

Clean your brush, roller, and roller pan using water. If you chose to use an oil based primer you will have to us lacquer thinner to do your clean up. I would not recommend using any oil based product on the ceiling or walls. Oil based products are harder to clean up and water based products are every bit as durable.

Paint ceiling and walls. After primer has completely dried (go by the manufacturers’ recommendation on the label) you are now ready to apply the first coat of paint.

If ceiling is being painted a different color than the walls. Make sure and paint

the ceiling first. Stir ceiling paint well before using. Using your brush go around where the ceiling and the walls meet.

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Using your roller paint the ceiling. After the paint has completely dried (go by the manufacturers’ recommendation on the label) apply a second coat. Clean your brush, roller, and roller pan using water. If you chose to use oil based primer you will have to use lacquer thinner to do your clean up. I would not recommend using any oil based product on the ceiling or walls. Oil based products are harder to clean up and water based products are every bit as durable. Once ceiling is completely dried you are ready to paint the walls. Stir wall paint well before using. Dip your brush in the paint and wipe most of the excess off. Cut in where ceiling and walls meet being careful not to get the wall paint on the ceiling.

Cut In

Using your brush paint all the inside and outside corners. Also, brush where trim & walls meet and around all light switches and receptacles. Using your roller paint the walls. After the paint has completely dried apply a second coat. Clean your brush, roller, and roller pan.

After paint has dried you should remove the tape off of the woodwork, vanity countertop and shower. After tape has been removed check over all walls, ceiling, and trim. If any touch ups are necessary make them at this time. If ceiling and walls are being painted the same color. Combine the steps listed above eliminating cutting in the walls to the ceiling.

28. Install Toilet. Make sure you have all the tools and material you need before you begin. We will assume that the existing toilet flange is OK and able to be used. If it is

not then I would recommend getting a plumber to replace it and set the toilet at the same time.

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Tools you will need: Various sizes of open end wrenches, crescent wrench, flat head screw driver, 10 oz. caulking gun, and hack saw. Materials you will need: Toilet (tank included), shims, closet bolts, white silicone caulking, and wax ring. Measure the distance from the wall to the middle of the toilet flange. This measurement should be around 12”. If so you are able to use a standard sized toilet. If it is less than 11” or greater than 14” I would recommend having a plumber come out and give you his opinion. Install closet bolts into toilet flange. Fit closet bolts into flange. Measure off the wall and set both closet bolts 12” off wall. Install wax ring. Take a piece of cardboard and set it on the floor. Turn toilet upside down and set it on the cardboard. Take wax ring and press it on to the toilet centering it on the drain hole. Mount toilet to the flange. Turn the toilet back upright making sure not to let it touch the floor. Straddling the toilet, line it up over the closet bolts. Once you can see the bolts through the slots set the toilet firmly to the floor. Applying downward pressure slightly rock the toilet from side to side to make sure the wax ring is firmly seated to the floor. Install the washers and nuts on the closet bolts. Use an open end wrench or crescent wrench to tighten the nuts. Work back and forth tightening just a little at a time on each side. Before it is completely tight take a level and set it both directions across the top of the toilet. If it is out of level use shims between the floor and the toilet. Finish tightening the bolts down firmly but not so tight that it bends the washers or cracks the toilet. Cut off the bolts if necessary so caps can be installed. Attach tank to toilet. Install rubber tank to bolt washer (spud) to the bottom of the tank. Put rubber washers on tank bolts. Insert bolts into tank from topside. Set tank on toilet with bolts going through slots on toilet. Install the washers and nuts to the tank bolts. Use the flat screw driver on the top side and an open end wrench or crescent wrench on the bottom to tighten the nuts. Work back and forth tightening just a little at a time on each side. Tighten firmly but be sure not to over tighten. Attach the supply line. Attach the toilet supply line to the shut off valve using a crescent wrench on the shut off valve to hold it in place and an open end wrench on the supply line to tighten. Attach the other end of the supply line to the tank tightening by hand.

Attach the seat to the toilet. Slide plastic bolts through the seat and the top of the toilet. Install the plastic washers onto the bolts. Use the flat head screw driver on the top side and open end wrench or crescent wrench on the bottom. Tighten by turning the bolt with the flat head screw driver until they are tight. Turn on toilet shut off valve. Let tank fill completely. Flush toilet and make sure it is working properly. Check for leaks around the water supply line, the tank, and the bottom of the toilet. If there are any leaks try to locate and fix them. If the leak continues turn the shut off valve to the toilet off and consult a licensed plumber. If there are no leaks leave the shut off valve on.

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Install caulking between toilet and floor. If there is a slight gap between the floor and the bottom of the toilet, due to using shims for leveling purposes, you may want to fill the gap using white silicone caulking. Make sure there are no leaks before doing this step.

Toilet Parts

29. Install light fixture(s), receptacle(s), and light switch(es).

In most places in the United States if you own the property you are working on you can do the electrical work yourself. If you are doing the work for someone else (i.e.; as a contractor) you must use a licensed electrician. I recommend that you check to see what your local construction codes require. If you have a building permit, which I recommend, than you will want to use a licensed electrician. Check to make sure breaker(s) to the Bathroom are off before starting electrical work. Also, make sure you have all the tools and material you need.

Tools you will need: Flat head screw driver, Phillips head screw driver, lineman pliers, and wire stripers. Materials you will need: Light fixture(s), fan/light, 4” flexible duct, duct tape, weather hood, receptacle(s) & cover(s), light switch(es) & cover(s), wire nuts, and electrical tape. Attach wiring from light fixture to the house wiring. Make sure that you have enough bare wire exposed so that wire nuts can be tightened securely. If there is not enough bare wire, approx. 3/4”, use wire stripers to create the necessary amount of bare wire that is needed. Twist the black wires (hot) together using the lineman pliers, and then install the proper sized wire nut (usually an orange or a yellow wire nut will work). Repeat this process with the white (neutral) and the bare (ground) wires. After all wire nuts are on use black electrical tape and go around the base of the wire nut and down onto the wires themselves. Do this on the black and white wires. This will insure that the wire nuts will not work loose and will, also, cover any bare wire at the base of the wire nut.

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Light Fixture Wiring

Attach the light fixture to the wall. Every light fixture is a little different. Go by the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure that it is installed properly. Attach wiring from fan/light to the house wiring. Follow the same steps above to attach a fan/light, if one is being installed. Attach duct to the fan/light and weather hood. If there is not an existing duct you can hook the fan/light up to you will have to install one. From the attic measure from where the duct will hook up to the fan/light to the closest roof line. This is how long your duct will need to be. Measure what diameter of duct is needed (most fan /lights require a 4” duct). You will need to purchase a flexible duct this size and a weather hood. Install the weather hood to the roof. The weather hood should be higher in elevation than the fan. Unless you have roofing experience I would recommend having a roofing contractor install the weather hood. Attach the duct to the fan/light (most kits will include a spring type connector to do this). If the fan doesn’t come with a connector you can use duct tape to attach the duct to the fan/light. Attach the other end to the weather hood using duct tape.

Fan/light Duct Instillation

Install new light switch(es). For wiring diagram see picture on previous page labeled Light Fixture wiring. Make sure the breaker to the light fixtures is turned off. Take the existing switch out by taking one wire off at a time and putting it in the same location on the new switch. When you are done the two white (neutral) wires should be attached with a wire nut while the black (hot) wire from the light should be attached to the top screw on the switch and the black (hot) wire from the house wiring should be attached to the bottom screw on the switch. The ground wire from the house and from the light should be attached to the screw labeled “ground” on the switch. Screw switch on to box. Make sure you install the switch right side up. Install a new plate cover to the switch. Repeat this same process for all switches. Install light bulbs into light fixture(s). Turn the breaker back on and test them to make sure they work properly. If the light fixture doesn’t work or it keeps flipping the breaker that goes to it off recheck your

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connections. If everything seems to be correct but you are still having a problem than you should consult a licensed electrician. Install new receptacle(s). Make sure the breaker to the receptacle(s) is turned off. Take the existing receptacle out by taking one wire off at a time and putting it in the same location on the new receptacle. Screw receptacle on to box. Install a new plate cover to the receptacle. Repeat this process for all receptacles. Flip the breaker to the receptacle(s) back on. Plug in a blow dryer or some other electrical device to make sure they are working properly. If the receptacle doesn’t work or it keeps flipping the breaker that goes to it off, recheck your connections. If everything seems to be correct but you are still having a problem than you should consult a licensed electrician. When there is only one set of wires attached to a receptacle it is called “the end of a run”, which means this is the last receptacle or only receptacle that runs off of a particular breaker. When there are 2 set of wires attached to a receptacle it is called “the middle of a run”, which means this is one in possibly a series of receptacles that run off of a particular breaker. In a Bathroom if there are 2 receptacles the one that has 2 sets of wires (the middle of a run) usually has a GFCI receptacle.

End of Run Receptacle Wiring Middle of Run Receptacle Wiring

GFCI Receptacle

30. Install new shower door and vanity mirror. The shower door and vanity mirror you ordered through a local glass company, right after you finished installing the shower walls should be ready by this time. You are ready for them to come out and do there instillation. You will want to give them a few days advanced notice that you will be needing them, so if possible, call and schedule in advance. If you don’t, be willing to wait on them to come out at their earliest convenience.

31. Install towel bar(s), toilet paper holder, and grab bar(s) (optional). All towel

bars, toilet paper holders, and grab bars have different methods of instillation. Go by the

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instructions that come with the items you will be installing. If you installed backing in the walls in anticipation of where you would be placing these items make sure and use them. Anytime you can go into solid backing to attach something to a wall it will stay sturdy and not loosen up. Avoid using wall anchors as much as possible especially with grab bars.

32. Put Bathroom door back on. Now that you are done with the inside of the Bathroom

you can put the door back on. Before you put the door on, if you are going to change the door hardware (i.e.; door knob, strike plate, and hinges) it will be easier to do it now. Tools you will need: Hammer, phillips head screw driver, and flat head screw driver. Material you will need: Hinges, door knob, strike plate, and door stop. Install the new door knob and strike plate. Remove the existing door knob and latch assembly from the door. Remove the existing strike plate from the door jamb. Install the new latch assembly and door knob. Follow the instructions that come with the new door knob. Install the new strike plate on the door jamb. Install hinges. Remove old hinges from door jamb and door. Take pins out of new hinges. Screw one side of the hinge to the door and the other side to the door jamb. Leave the screws on the door jamb slightly loose. Set the door in place making sure the hinges line up properly. Put the door stop on the top hinge pin and insert it into the hinge. Install the middle and bottom pins also. Finish tightening the hinge screws on the door jamb side. Using a hammer, tap the top of the hinge pins until they are completely in (make sure that the hammer doesn’t come in contact with the door). Test the door by opening and shutting it a few times. Make sure that the strike plate and the latch assembly line up properly.

Strike Plate Latch assembly

33. Test everything that was installed. Although you have already done a test it is a good idea to go over everything one last time. Some of the things that you should test are: Plumbing. Check for leaks, make sure all stops work properly, and make sure that the faucets do not get too hot.

Electrical. Make sure lights, fan/light, switches, and receptacles are all working properly. Test the GFCI receptacle and make sure it shuts off when you press the test button and that it will reset.

Paint. Check walls, trim work, and vanity. If there are any touch ups needed do it now. Floors. Check and make sure there are no cracked tile or grout lines. If there are any repair and/or replace them now.

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Look over the whole Bathroom from floor to ceiling if nothing stands out you have probably addressed everything there is.

34. Final cleaning. Now that all work is completed you will want to clean the Bathroom from ceiling to floor before you start to use it.

Tools you will need: Feather duster, broom, and dust pan. Materials you will need: Water & white vinegar mix (for tile floors, shower walls, shower glass, faucets, toilet, countertop, and mirror), lemon oil (for trim work and vanity), paper towels, white rags, and a trash bag. Start at the top and clean down. Dust the ceiling, walls, trim work, and the vanity. Clean the shower, shower faucet, and the shower glass. Clean the mirror, sink faucet, and the countertop. Wipe down all trim work, door, and vanity with the lemon oil. Sweep floors. Clean the tile floors wiping them down with the white rags.

35. Haul off all debris. If you haven’t already you should now load up all of your debris (i.e.; old fixtures that were removed, scrap material, boxes, etc.) in a truck or trailer and

dump them at your local landfill. *If you have paint cans they can’t be dumped unless the paint is all out of them or it is completely dried up.

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CONCLUSION

No two bathrooms are alike. They will vary in design, the type of fixtures that are used, and how things were installed. In this instruction manual I have tried to be as thorough as possible but it is almost a guaranteed that you will run into something that wasn’t covered. You may be able to figure it out on your own or know someone who you trust that will give you the answer you need. If all else fails we offer several different ways to assist you on your project. Such as, Certified Interior Designers who can offer assistance on layout, help with product choices, or give you feedback on ideas that you already have. Based on our years of experience contracting Home Renovation Construction Consulting Services can answer technical questions on structural issues, more detailed instructions on how to do a specific task, or give you advice on management issues such as working with sub-contractors or project management. Call us at 918-274-8850 or Toll Free at 855-504-7227 for more information on all the services we provide. By contracting the job yourself you will have saved 10-20% off of what you would have paid to go through a General Contractor. If you do most of the labor yourself (excluding plumbing and electrical) you will have saved yourself 40-50%. That’s money you can use to go towards your next project or to take a vacation to reward yourself for a job well done. Good Luck with your project(s) and thanks again for letting us be a part of it.