inspirato magazine - winter 2013

WINTER 2013

TUSCAN MOON Jenna Bush-Hager’s

memorable week at a storied Italian villa

CUTTING EDGESix young chefs

who are changing the way we dine

FRESH TRACKS Three ski vacations custom fit for you

AMBER REVIVAL Craft Irish whiskey enjoys a renaissance in the New World

WINTER RETREAT PLAN THE PERFECT GETAWAY FROM KAPALUA TO CÔTE D’AZUR

INSPIRATOMAGAZINE.COM

DREAM DESTINATIONS AROUND THE

WORLD

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6INSPIRATO MAGAZINE S WINTER 2013

86FACES

OF CHANGE For some chefs it’s not enough to simply

have happy diners—they have to constantly push the culinary envelope. From Grant Achatz’s methodical approach to Inaki Aizpitarte’s spontaneous wonders, we

profile six groundbreaking chefs who are redefining not only what we eat, but how.

BY JAY CHESHES

100FIRST

TRACKS Even before the snowflakes fall, it’s time to start planning this year’s ski

getaway. But which resort is right for you? Get to know three very different destinations that will cater to all your

needs, whether you seek extreme adventure or lighthearted family fun.

BY DEBORAH MARKS WILLIAMS

92THE

BAYSIDE WAYSan Francisco is one of the most beautiful

and easygoing cities in the world. But don’t mistake the relaxed demeanor for

a lack of culture. Take a true insider’s look at the best restaurants, hippest

boutiques and side-street speakeasies that make the City by the Bay so unique.

BY GAIL GOLDBERG

CONTENTS INSPIRATOMAGAZINE.COMWINTER 2013

FEATURES

BECKONING BLUE WITH STUNNING STRETCHES OF WHITE SAND BEACH, WORLD-CLASS SCUBA DIVING AND WATER SPORTS, AND A TRUE ISLAND-LIFE AMBIENCE, TURKS & CAICOS IS AN IRRESISTIBLE DESTINATION FOR ANY KIND OF VACATION. BY JAMES STURZ

78

7 WINTER 2013 S INSPIRATO.COM

52 CULTURE & LIFESTYLE Go beyond Toronto’s big-business reputation and uncover a uniquely sophisticated, thriving urban enclave. BY MICHELLE

SINGERMAN

56 FOOD & WINE The scenery is as sensational as the food at these four al fresco dining gems. BY AMY ZAVATTO

61 FAMILY & FRIENDS From winter ziplining to slope-side aprés ski spots, Lake Tahoe’s resorts work for the whole family. BY CINDY HIRSCHFELD

65 HEALTH & BEAUTY These unusual and exotic spa treatments go way beyond the traditional massage. BY KARA WILLIAMS

69 SPORTS & LEISURE Kapalua Resort lays claim to two of Maui’s—and the world’s—best golf courses. BY SCOTT KRAMER

72 HISTORY & TRENDS Ireland’s storied spirit is enjoying a resurgence of popularity in both the U.S. and abroad. BY KARA NEWMAN

.MEMBERSHIP.

110 WHAT IS INSPIRATO? Discover a new kind of destination club, and the preeminent name in luxury travel.

114 INSPIRED GIVING Inspirato’s one-of-a-kind philanthropy program makes it easy to support a cause that’s important to you.

178 ADVANTAGE INSPIRATO Members reflect on what makes Inspirato so unique.

10 WELCOME LETTER

16 BEHIND THE STORIES

17 ALL POINTS DIGITAL

18 PORTALS

180 THE GREAT LIFE

SAVVY TRAVELER.

22 TIMELINES Six must-see events around the globe.

23 HOLIDAY ESCAPES Seven terrific holiday trips for families, couples and groups.

28 EN ROUTE First-class air travel is reaching new heights.

30 TROPHY TOYS This personal race car is like nothing you’ve ever driven.

32 STYLE BUREAU Leather bags and totes for the fashionable traveler.

34 COCKTAIL HOUR Our favorite Irish whiskeys from the top shelf.

36 APP CENTRAL Five culinary apps for every cook and any kitchen.

INSPIRATION.

40 THE INSPIRATO INTERVIEW Basketball star Anthony Parker talks about the NBA, travel and family adventures. BY TOM WILMES

42 NON-PROFITS & CHARITIES Discover two dynamic organizations that serve our youth in magnifiicent—and different—ways. BY SUZANNE BOPP

48 PEOPLE & PROFILES Jenna Bush-Hager and friends experience the trip of a lifetime in an idyllic Tuscan estate. BY LAUREN PAIGE

KENNEDY

CONTENTSWINTER 2013 THE INSPIRATO PORTFOLIO

A COMPREHENSIVE

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E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H


W ELCOM E TO I NSPI R ATO

T here are momenTs in life ThaT you wanT To remember forever.Events like graduations, weddings or first birthdays are milestones that we all celebrate. But it’s

the unexpected moments—shared laughter with our family, watching our kids experience something new, nodding off in the hammock with a loved one—that enrich our lives, draw us closer together and mold special memories from the clay of everyday. ¶ These are magical moments and they lie at the heart of what we do at Inspirato. ¶ We are a unique club, designed for the traveler who appreciates the very best that life has to offer and values time with family and friends. We offer opportunities for families to get away and come together, for them to create new experiences and forever memories.

Your magical moments are our inspiration. ¶ As such, the pages of this issue are loaded with unique experiences and destinations to share with the people you love. As the days grow colder, we take you to Turks & Caicos (pg. 78) for some of the

greatest scuba diving and water sports in the world. With endless stretches of sugary white sand, the beaches of this island chain offer an idyllic getaway for families large and small. Likewise, a golf trip to Maui is sure to cure any autumnal lull. Discover the unrivaled Plantation Course at Kapalua (pg. 69), home of the PGA’s Tournament of Champions, and see if you’re up to the challenge. ¶ Former first daughter Jenna Bush-Hager shares her amazing trip to Tuscany with close friends on page 48. It’s an affair to remember… and to inspire. And we keep you on the cutting edge of the international culi-nary scene as we profile six groundbreaking chefs who are changing the way we think about food (pg. 86). If you’re starting to plan this year’s winter vacation, we offer the perfect mountain des-tinations, whether you seek an extreme skiing trip with friends (pg. 100) or a family trip geared entirely toward the children (pg. 61). ¶ We hope the stories in this issue inspire you to get away, experience the world together and create your own magical moments with the people you love.

Happy Journeys, BRENT HANDLER FOUNDER & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Magical Moments

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OUR MISSION STATEMENT

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Ira BahrCHIEF MARKETING OFFICER & PRESIDENT OF INSPIRATO MAGAZINE

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PUBLISHER Deborah Juris EDITOR Brendan Harrington CREATIVE DIRECTOR Aaron Cessna MANAGING EDITOR Wren Bova ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tom Wilmes COPY EDITOR Dave Baker DESIGN ASSOCIATES Lindsay Burke Alithea Doyle

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Suzanne Bopp, Jay Cheshes, Lexi Dwyer, Gail Goldberg, Cindy Hirschfeld, Lauren Kennedy, Scott Kramer, Logan Kugler, Carly Milne, Kara Newman, Chris Rodell, Michelle Singerman, Mindy Sink, James Sturz, Deborah Marks Williams, Kara Williams, Amy Zavatto CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS & PHOTOGRAPHERS Ed Anderson, Kristin Anderson, Steve Anderson, Mia Baxter, Browning Cannon III, Tracy Cox, Mollie Devine, Kate Francis, Vin Ganapathy, Andy and Gemma Ingalls, Rebecca Marshall, Jeff Nelson, Steve Passmore, Scott Peterson

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Inspirato Magazine prints three times annually and is published in conjunction with Hungry Eye Custom Publishing, © 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including

photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written consent of the Publisher.

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Rebecca Marshall A: SIERRA LEONE.A British freelance photographer based in the South of France, Rebecca Marshall shoots features, portraits and food photography for maga-zines and clients worldwide. From Monaco’s royal wedding last summer to reportage of truffle hunters deep in the French Alps, her assignments lead her to photograph a rich variety of places and people across France and beyond. When she’s not shooting, she loves being out in big open spaces, hiking, wild camping and biking.

Logan Kugler A: BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS.Adrenaline junkie, technology expert, automotive enthusiast, future space entrepreneur and writer sums up Logan Kugler. He’s written for more than 60 major publications including Forbes, Men’s Journal, Robb Report, Entrepre-neur, Backpacker, BMW Magazine, PC World, Mac|Life and Fast Company. His work has taken him to places like a billionaire’s private island, Jay Leno’s garage and flying in zero gravity with NASA. At least one night a week, he dreams about owning an Ariel Atom.

James Sturz A: THE KINGDOM OF BHUTAN.James Sturz is author of the novel Sasso and has contributed articles to more than 70 publications, including The New York Times Magazine, The Atlantic, Outside and The Wall Street Journal. As a PADI-certified divemaster and free diver, he has scuba dived and snorkeled in more than 30 coun-tries—often traveling the world with 40 pounds of gear in tow. Based in New York City, he’s a longtime fan of Turks & Caicos, and has visited more than a dozen of its islands and cays, and even slept on eight. He eats fresh conch whenever he can.

Lauren Paige Kennedy A: ENGLAND.When asked to interview former first daughter Jenna Bush-Hager, Lauren Paige Kennedy jumped at the chance despite her Democratic-sounding last name. The writer has profiled scores of prominent people for national and international magazines, includ-ing Harrison Ford, Alicia Keys, Ang Lee and Katie Couric, plus Andre Agassi for an earlier issue of Inspirato. Between assignments, oil painting is Kennedy’s passion—as is chas-ing after her two kids and a dog.

BEH I N D T H E STOR I ES

ONE QUESTION: From what country, territory or province is your favorite passport stamp?

CONTRIBUTORS

Wren Bova A: SPAIN.Wren Bova grew up on the kitchen counter. After spending years in res-taurant kitchens, she decided it was more fun to write about food than it was to cook professionally. Based in Vail, Colorado, she’s the editor of sev-eral lifestyle publications including Vail Luxury, EAT and Beaver Creek Maga-zine. Whether she’s following Vail chefs to New York City’s James Beard House or talking pinot clones with winemak-ers from the Willamette Valley, one thing is certain: She’s always well fed.

Brown Cannon III A: SAUDI ARABIA.Award-winning photographer Brown Cannon III studied at Art Center Col-lege of Design. For more than a decade, he’s traveled near and far to make images, including shoots in Indone-sia, Alaska, India and Texas. Whether it’s watching a thunderstorm roll in, riding with cowboys, circling red tail hawks or dropping into a wave, the photographer likes to be on the move, chasing light and clean lines. On assign-ment for Inspirato he stayed close to home, San Francisco, and chronicled some of the city’s classic haunts.


CONNECTIONSCheck in online and experience all the best Inspirato has to offer

Introducing InspiratoMagazine.comEnjoy additional content, weekly updates from local writers, bonus photos, videos and more online. The Inspirato Magazine website keeps you up to date with the newest restaurants, hippest boutiques and greatest vacation vibes in your favorite destinations around the world. Access a rich archive of dynamic content from anywhere, and get inspired to get away.

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CATCH THE TRAVEL BUG ON OUR FACEBOOK PAGE WITH PHOTOS AND PERSONAL STORIES FROM

LUXURY VACATIONERS ALL THE WORLD OVER.

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YOU’VE GOT TO SEE IT TO BELIEVE IT. STUNNING IMAGES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

AWAIT ON OUR PINTEREST BOARD.

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FOLLOW US FOR REAL-TIME REFLECTIONS AND ADVICE. PUT THE WORLD

AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

Watch for the Inspirato Magazine App, including even more enhanced content and features. Available at your favorite App store this winter!

WINTER 2013

TUSCAN MOON Jenna Bush-Hager’s

memorable week at a storied Italian villa

CUTTING EDGESix young chefs

who are changing the way we dine

FRESH TRACKS Three ski vacations custom fit for you

AMBER REVIVAL Craft Irish whiskey enjoys a renaissance in the New World

WINTER RETREAT PLAN THE PERFECT GETAWAY FROM KAPALUA TO CÔTE D’AZUR

INSPIRATOMAGAZINE.COM

DREAM DESTINATIONS AROUND THE

WORLD

A L L POI N TS DIGI TA L

E X PLOR E DIGI TA L CON N EC T IONS

FOOD & WINE

SPORTS & LEISURE

PEOPLE & PROFILES

FAMILY & FRIENDS

SPECIAL. ASSIGNMENT.

PUNTA DE MITA, MEXICO

“Hey Dad, I’m doing it!” The rapturous thrill of watching your child catch his or her first wave is a memory you’ll cherish for a lifetime. The waters

surrounding the peninsula of Punta de Mita, Mexico, feature a variety of breaks that provide consistently great surfing spots for any skill level, and with vast stretches of secluded beach, sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and myriad activities for adults and children alike, it’s the ultimate family destination.

You might also venture out with an experienced captain to fish the deep for marlin and tuna or dive and snorkel

in the warm waters with turtles and giant stingrays. You can even get up close and personal with the humpback whales that frolic off the coast January through April.

Inland, you can fly through the jungle canopy on a zipline, take a nature course at the ecological reserve in Los Veneros or book a tee time at one of many great

courses in the area. If staying close to the resort is more your speed, simply hunker down poolside and make dinner reservations for a relaxing, family vacation.

START PLANNING YOUR TRIP AT INSPIRATO.COMWHERE WE FEATURE THE BEST RESTAURANTS, GOLF COURSES,

SHOPPING, KIDS’ ACTIVITIES AND MUCH MORE.

18

WORLD CLASS CONFIDENTIAL

{ LAS VEGAS, NEVADA }

FAR MORE THAN AN ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT BUFFET AND TICKETS TO SEE WAYNE NEWTON,

THE CALIBER OF LAS VEGAS’ DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT HAS ACHIEVED WORLD-CLASS

STATUS. KEEPING TRACK OF THE WHITE-HOT OPENINGS AND OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH GEMS,

HOWEVER, CAN BE AS FORMIDABLE AS DRAWING TO AN INSIDE STRAIGHT. VISIT US

ONLINE FOR FIVE OF OUR FAVORITE NEW VEGAS DINING ROOMS AND

CAN’T-MISS SHOWS.

SPECIAL. ASSIGNMENT.

PARADISE DISCOVERED { PATAGONIA, CHILE }

Eco-chic tourism is heating up in Patagonia—and so is the weather. Chile’s summertime, between December and February, is the prime time to explore Patagonia’s

rugged terrain and rich culture. As the roads clear, you can travel between luxurious and sustainable outposts to access a wealth of outdoor adventures, such as horseback riding with a Gaucho, paddling

among a colony of barking sea lions and soaring above glacier-covered volcanoes on a helicopter tour.

FOUR FOR FORE { KIAWAH ISLAND, SOUTH CAROLINA }

IF YOU’RE PLANNING A GOLF GETAWAY TO ONE OF THE GREATEST COURSES IN

THE COUNTRY, YOU’LL WANT TO BRING YOUR A-GAME. WE PRESENT THE FOUR TOP TIPS TO

IMPROVE THROUGH THE WINTER MONTHS FROM THE PROS AT TURTLE POINT AND THE OCEAN COURSE, KIAWAH

ISLAND’S WORLD-RENOWNED CHAMPIONSHIP COURSES.

TABLES FOR SALE { CHICAGO, ILL INOIS }

YOU KNOW BOUNDARY-BUSTING CHEF GRANT ACHATZ HAS ACHIEVED ROCK-STAR STATUS WHEN FOODIES

SCOUR CRAIGSLIST FOR PERPETUALLY SOLD-OUT TICKETS TO HIS FLAGSHIP CHICAGO RESTAURANT, ALINEA. READ

ABOUT ACHATZ’S MAD-SCIENTIST CUISINE ON PAGE 86, AND VISIT

INSPIRATOMAGAZINE.COM FOR HOW TO SCORE RESERVATIONS AT THE NATION’S

MOST SOUGHT-AFTER RESTAURANTS.

WINTER 2013 S INSPIRATO.COM 19

HOME-COOKED WITH AMORÉ

{ TUSCANY, ITALY }

LET A RENOWNED LOCAL CHEF BRING THE FLAVORS OF TUSCANY TO YOU WITH A MULTI-

COURSE MEAL PREPARED AND SERVED IN YOUR PRIVATE ITALIAN VILLA. READ ABOUT

JENNA BUSH-HAGER’S DRESSED-UP DINNER PARTY ON PAGE 48, AND ONE FAMILY’S

UNIQUELY ITALIAN DINING EXPERIENCE AT INSPIRATOMAGAZINE.COM

WATCH FOR THIS PORTALS ICON THROUGHOUT THE MAGAZINE DIRECTING

YOU TOWARD ADDITIONAL STORIES, PHOTOS AND INSIDER

INFORMATION ONLINE AT INSPIRATOMAGAZINE.COM

Visit inspiratoMagazine.coM for these—and hundreds More—inspirational traVel stories.

EAT LIKE A BIRD

{ KOH KOOD, THAILAND }

Talk about dinner with a view. Enjoy an unforgettable

meal of freshly caught fish and classic Thai cuisine in

a comfortable rattan dining pod suspended high in the

lush canopy at Soneva Kiri, an exclusive resort

set on the tropical island of Thailand’s Koh Kood. Waiters

service your unique perch (it resembles a bird’s nest

with a roof) via zipline, while you soak in ocean views

and gently sway among the rustling leaves.

ADRENALINE RUSH { LONDON, ENGL AND }

EXPERIENCE THE THRILL OF DRIVING A HIGH-PERFORMANCE RACING CAR

AT ONE OF OUR RECOMMENDED TRACKS AROUND THE WORLD.

WE PROFILE THREE UNIQUE DRIVING SCHOOLS AND RACECAR EXPERIENCES

THAT PUT YOU BEHIND THE WHEEL OF THE FASTEST CARS ON EARTH,

INCLUDING THE POCKET-SIZED ARIEL ATOM, FEATURED ON PAGE 30.

Get interactive and check out the Portals page in the Inspirato

Magazine tablet edition, where you

can tap directly into bonus content!

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EN ROUTE

New luxury amenities and services—exclusively

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This supercharged street car feels like piloting a

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Travel first-class wherever you go with these stylish

and functional bags

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Five rare top-shelf whiskeys and where

to find them

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TROPHY TOYS STYLE BUREAU COCKTAIL HOUR

’TIS THE SEASON.

No matter what holiday you celebrate, it’s a great time to get

away with family and friends. Check out our seven favorite

destinations to experience the wonder of the season.

23

TIPS, TOPICS & TRENDS for THE WORLDLY WAYFARER

There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.” — Robert Louis Stevenson

’TIS THE SEASON PHOTO by JACK AFFLECK, VAIL RESORTS

INSPIRATO MAGAZINE S WINTER 2013 22

TIMELINES

PIEMONTE REGION, ITALYALBA WHITE TRUFFLE FESTIVALEARLY OCTOBER THROUGH MID-NOVEMBER 2012

Piemonte’s famed white truffles are abundant throughout the region during the fall months. Bocce tournaments, parades, live entertainment and an auc-tion that attracts buyers from around the world are all part of the festivities. But the crowning glory is the profusion of truffles found on most restaurants’ menus that makes for a glorious, truffle-rich dining experience.

MAUI HYUNDAI TOURNAMENT OF CHAMPIONSJANUARY 3-7, 2013

Heralding the start of the PGA tour, the annual Hyundai Tourna-ment of Champions brings the cream of the crop together to compete on the legendary Planta-tion Course at Kapalua Resort in Maui. Follow the select group of tour winners from 2012—includ-ing Tour of Champions winner Steve Stricker—as they tackle one of the most beautiful courses in the world. Want to experience the Kapalua courses yourself? Turn to page 69 for more.

MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDAART | BASELDECEMBER 6-9, 2012

Signaling the start of Florida’s art and festival seasons, Art | Basel showcases the works of more than 2,000 artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Attended by representatives of exclusive galleries from around the world, the Miami Beach Convention Center and a handful of local museums are overrun by art, artists, curators, critics and buyers in what is widely considered the most prestigious art event in the Western Hemisphere. Films, discussions and entertainment round out the event. Art | Basel is a must-do for art lovers, and would even make a great holiday getaway. Read how on page 24.

NEW YORK CITY, LONDON, MILAN & PARISFASHION WEEK(S)FEBRUARY 7- MARCH 7, 2013

Though many cities have fashion weeks, the big four continue to be New York City, London, Milan and Paris, which host successive weeks in that order. Fashion houses, designers, models, buyers, reviewers, artists and other trendsetters make a global migration of runway shows, parties and special events. Spring fashion weeks showcase the coming winter lines.

BURGUNDY, FRANCELA PAULÉE DE MEURSAULTNOVEMBER 17-19, 2012

La Paulée de Meursault is part of Les Trois Glorieuses, the “three glorious days,” held at the end of harvest to celebrate wine and winemaking. On the third weekend of November, the event always includes a banquet on Saturday, a wine auction on Sunday and Monday’s much-coveted La Paulée: an over-the-top luncheon that begins at noon and lasts until nightfall; everyone brings a bottle or three of wine to share. Tickets are difficult, though not impossible, to come by.

CALIFORNIA COASTGRAY WHALE MIGRATIONDECEMBER 2012-APRIL 2013

From the United States’ Pacific Coast, gray whales can be seen heading south to Baja in December and January, where they’ll spend the coldest parts of winter. March through April, the large, city-bus sized whales travel back north, heading for the summertime waters of the Bering and Chukchi Seas in the Arctic.

From Miami to Meursault, time your next vacation to coincide with one of these celebrated global events.

NOVEMBER 2012 DECEMBER 2012 JANUARY 2013 FEBRUARY 2013 MARCH 2013

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HOLIDAY ESCAPES

The holiday season means something different for everyone. But no matter your point of

view, it is a time to celebrate and reflect with the people you love. Whether you’re looking for a big family celebration, a quiet couple’s

escape or a unique cultural exploration, ’tis the season to get away and share an unforgettable holiday adventure. So gather your nearest and

dearest and go make some memories.

spectacular holiday

destinations for you

and yoursBY LE XI DW YER

THE SEASON’SSPLENDOR

MOUNTAIN DREAMS

There’s nothing quite like a white Christmas.

Take a family trip to Vail, Colorado or Whistler

Blackcomb for a picture-perfect snowy holiday

adventure.

PHOTOGRAPHY by JACK AFFLECK, VAIL RESORTS

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FOOD, FUN,. FAMILY, SUN. HILTON HEAD, SOUTH CAROLINA THE BIG REUNION

You’ll have much to be thankful for if you opt for a November trip to Hilton Head Island. Sunshine is plentiful and fall temps hover in the 60s and 70s, making it an ideal time for golfing, biking or collecting shells on the beach. Feeling game? Players of all levels can enter the David M. Carmines Memorial Tennis Championship at Palmetto Dunes, which is consistently ranked as one of the country’s top places to play. For the main meal, ditch the dirty dishes and hire a private chef to commandeer your villa’s kitchen for the day. Or drive east to Savannah, where Paula Deen serves a classically Southern spread at her The Lady and Sons restaurant. You’ll leave with a new appreciation for the phrase “food coma.”

JUST THE. TWO OF US.SOUTH BEACH, MIAMI SHOPPING, DINING & ART

A sexy suite high above South Beach might be an unexpected vantage point for celebrating Hanukkah. But once you try it, we bet it will become an annual tradition. This year, the holiday (Dec. 8-16, 2012) overlaps with Art | Basel, the most renowned show of its kind in the country. And between the chic Shops at Bal Harbour, where biggies like Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney are represented, and the converted warehouses of the Design District, famous for its eclectic mix of home-furnishings designers, you’ll easily cobble together eight nights’ worth of glamorous gifts.

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HERITAGE. MEETS HISTORY. CHICAGO, ILLINOIS KWANZAA @ THE DUSABLE MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY

Chicago has its classic holiday hotspots, like the Lincoln Park Zoo with its shimmery light show set to music, and the Millennium Park Skating Rink, where you can glide within view of the city skyline. Add a layer of culture by visiting during Kwanzaa (Dec. 26, 2012-Jan. 1, 2013), to reflect on the holiday’s central themes of unity, creativity and the importance of family. The DuSable Museum of African American History is the Windy City’s Kwanzaa hub: This year they’ll host a pre-holiday event with music, dance and spoken-word performances, along with daily candle-lighting ceremonies all week long. Should you get snowed in by one of the city’s signature storms, you’ll be glad you booked a suite with a fireplace and a river view: Suddenly, room service sounds like the sweetest idea of all.

FRESH. CULTURAL. PERSPECTIVES. LONDON, ENGLAND DIWALI, ANNUAL INDIAN FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

A journey overseas is certain to deliver on lasting memories, and immersion into a unique culture will only enhance. Try London for Diwali, the Indian festival of lights (Nov. 13-17, 2012), which marks a new year in the Hindu calendar. The most well-known party happens in Trafalgar Square, where revelers can taste Indian food and watch modern and traditional dance performances. For a more intimate experience, head to the Punjabi community of Southall to shop for sweets (try the Chhappan Bhog shop) and absorb the sights and smells of Broadway, the lively main drag. Keep your camera handy: Between the blinged-out facade of the Vishwa Hindu Mandir temple, the homemade fireworks, and the flickering candles and oil lamps along the side streets, there’s no shortage of eye candy.

IDYLLIC. WHITE. CHRISTMAS. WHISTLER BLACKCOMB, BRITISH COLUMBIA FUN FOR EVERYONERugged enough for skiing and snowboarding addicts, urbane enough for foodies and fashionistas, and just plain fun for the kids, Whistler is the type of destination that can please almost anyone. Book a slopeside château for the family and start some new holiday traditions, like Canadian Guided Tours’ dogsled run. After zooming through an old-growth forest, your guide will give you a turn at the reins. Keep Christmas dinner stress-free, whether you dine out (try Araxi or Bearfoot Bistro) or bring in a chef from Whistler Cooks Catering to wow your crowd with pan-seared halibut or hazelnut-crusted venison. Food and fun aside, the real bonus of spending a big family Christmas here is that you’re guaranteed a white one. To learn about all Whistler has to offer, turn to page 100.

PARTY IN. PARADISE.TORTOLA, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS OLD YEAR’S NIGHT

Forget the snow report. Take your New Year’s celebration to the beaches of the BVI. From your pool villa on Tortola, you can contemplate your options for December 31. The big event happens on the tiny outpost of Jost van Dyke, where people from all over the world come for the raucous annual “Old Year’s Night” party at Foxy’s Bar. Jost is reachable only by boat, so charter a sailboat and arrive a day early to secure a spot in Great Harbour, where the 500 slips fill up quickly. For a more low-key scene, Trellis Bay on Beef Island, which is attached to Tortola, is the way to go. The family-friendly celebration starts at noon, but the fireworks and fire dancers continue after dark to remind everyone that the new year is once again upon them.

THE SEASON’S SPLENDOR

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HOLIDAY ESCAPES

25

NEW YORK CITY. ENDLESS HOLIDAY SPIRIT

Travelers swarm the Big Apple during November and December, and it’s easy to

see why: thanks to Manhattan’s racial and cultural diversity, it’s overflowing with all kinds of holiday spirit. Try a mega-

celebration like the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade or New Year’s Eve in Times

Square. During the Christmas season, you can dine at the Sea Grill overlooking

the famous tree in Rockefeller Center, which may be a bit touristy but there’s no

arguing with the view. For a spot of culture, New York City Ballet’s “Nutcracker” at

Lincoln Center has been beguiling children and adults since 1954, thanks to George

Balanchine’s flawless choreography. And unlike that evergreen in Rock Center, the

tree in this production will grow before your eyes, to a staggering height of 41 feet.

ULTIMATE URBAN ESCAPE

ROCK AROUND For its energy,

diversity and pure metropolitan magic,

NYC tops our list of ultimate holiday

getaways.

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Mediterranean A Members-Only

Photo courtesy of Silversea

Mediterranean A Members-Only

Inspirato is proud to present, A Mediterranean Love Affair: eight days and eight exotic Mediterranean ports wrapped into one luxurious European adventure. After this voyage, your world will never look the same again.

Join us for sea, sand and the sublime along the best of the Italian, French, and Spanish Rivieras. It’s the clink of martini glasses at a Monte Carlo blackjack table. A plush lounge chair on the sunny Saint-Tropez sand. And on board, a private veranda, around-the-clock butler service, and gourmet candlelit dining.

If your sun-soaked Mediterranean dreams have imagined it, you’ll find it on this exclusive members-only luxury cruise. Call 888.546.5008 for details.

inspirato.com

©2012 Inspirato LLC. All rights reserved. For additional disclosure see inspirato.com/legal/seller-of-travel.

Love Affair


EN ROUTE

LYING FIRST CLASS CAN BE hit or miss, sometimes with only slightly better

accommodations than those at the back of the plane. But these days, international airlines are amping up their amenities and giving new meaning to the term “high life.” These first-class carriers deliver more than big seats. They redefine the category with in-flight showers, private suites with closing doors and Egyptian cotton sheets on full-size beds. They set new standards in service as well, both in the air and on the ground. For instance, British Airways airport lounges offer First passengers (the airline dropped the word “class” for brevity) spa, shower and suit-pressing services. With an Upper Class ticket on Virgin Atlan-tic, a chauffeur will drive you to and from the airport at home and in your destination city. If you’re depart-ing from Heathrow, the chauffeur can drive you straight to your gate as though it were your own private plane. With so many new luxuries in your lap, the problem now might be that the flight isn’t long enough.

SUITEDREAMSTaking an overseas flight? Reimagine your first-class travel experience with these truly top-tier offerings.BY LOGAN KUGLER

F

ILLUSTRATION by BROWN BIRD DESIGN

THE COMFORTBritish Airways First suites

feature illumination that mimics natural light, flat beds with Egyptian cotton sheets

and electronic blinds that cover windows for

easy rest.

THE CUISINEYour suite on Etihad Airways is serviced

by its own beverage manager and a five-star chef who personally delivers your meal. Pre-flight champagne goes

down nicely with the First menu on British Airways, a monthly rotating set of dishes that includes the catch of the day for UK

departures. And Singapore Airlines features a gourmet menu, wine list hand-selected by connoisseurs and Givenchy tableware to round out an aristocratic experience.

THE LUXURYTermed “Upper Class” on Virgin

Atlantic, each suite has a seat that folds down into a six-foot, six-inch

bed at the touch of a button. The airline also offers a pre-flight glass

of champagne and specialized menu with a grazing option so you can nibble anytime

during the flight.


THE FUTUREVirgin Galactic will soon launch commercial, sub-orbital flights—at $200,000 a seat. Further improvements in technology promise to drive prices down, where sub-orbital hops to any place in the world will be as economical as a

transatlantic flight is today—and much faster. Engineers at EADS are perfecting a Zero Emission High Supersonic Transport (ZEHST) to top out at Mach 4, or 3,000 miles per hour. Imagine taking off from New York, shooting up into the

thermosphere and dropping back down in New Delhi in under two hours!

THE PRIVACYBeyond the showers,

Emirates offers each first-class passenger (on selected aircraft) his or her own suite

with sliding doors for privacy, a desk, coat closet, minibar

and LCD entertainment system with 600 channels.

THE MINIBAR The United Arab Emirates’ flagship carrier,

Etihad Airways, treats you like royalty when you spring for an Etihad Diamond first-class ticket. Your suite features a comfortable seat

that morphs into a recliner and bed more than six feet long, a widescreen television

with noise-canceling headphones and a personal minibar.

THE SHOWERSAn industry first, Emirates

boasts two on-board showers in the first-class cabins of its

massive A380 planes. No need to wait until the Admiral’s

Club to take a hot shower and brush your teeth. Now you can

disembark clean, refreshed and perfectly coiffed.

THE LOUNGEIf you’re the mingling

type, the first-class area of Emirates’ A380 also

sports a dedicated lounge with full bar.


ATOMIC POWERThe Ariel Atom is hands down one of the world’s premier driving experiences.

BY LOGAN KUGLER

TROPHY TOYS

OU CAN’T HELP BEING INTRIGUED. But be warned: Once you experience this car, you simply won’t be able to resist bringing one home. The one-of-a-kind Ariel Atom is a supercharged road car that performs like a

Formula 1 racer while offering the face-melting speed and sensation of a world-class motorcycle. Remarkably affordable, the car accelerates from 0 to 60 miles per hour in a jaw-dropping 2.9 seconds—that’s faster than a McLaren F1, which would set you back more than $1 million—and boasts as much power, pound for pound, as a $2.5 million Bugatti Veyron, the fastest production vehicle in exis-tence with more than 1,000 horsepower. With exposed machinery, no body panels and the wheels only an arm’s length away, the Ariel Atom provides a truly unique, utterly unparalleled driving experience like nothing you’ve ever encountered.

Y

THE SPEEDThe Atom’s lightweight exo-

skeleton chassis and no-frills build allow the 245 hp, 2.4-liter engine to push the envelope, while optional

features such as carbon fiber wings and a chromoly aerofoil wishbone sus-

pension allow you to customize the car to meet your needs.

A windshield is optional, too. But doors are not.

THE HISTORYThis dream machine was conceived and designed

in the U.K., but thanks to a licensing deal between Ariel

Motor Company and TMI Autotech, it is now manufactured in

the U.S. and available as the Atom 3.

THE STATSENGINE

Honda K24 i-Vtec (2.4 liter) 245HPTRANSMISSION 6-speed close

ratio with limited slip differential

CHASSIS CAD-designed

lightweight tubular exoskeleton with

powder coat finishWEIGHT

1,350 poundsACCELERATION

0 to 60 mphin 2.9 seconds

PRICE Starting at

$52,480

THE SUSPENSIONA race-inspired inboard suspension, low-slung

body and wide stance help the Atom stick to corners like super glue while you literally feel

the skin on your face trying to keep pace in the open-air cab. It’s similar to racing a high-

performance motorcycle, but significantly more stable and safe.

Want to get behind the wheel? TMI Autotech offers both the VIR Driving Experience, a half- or full-day race session at the Virginia International Raceway, and the ongoing RaceAtom series, which pits street race enthusiasts against their speed-loving peers. Visit arielatom.com to learn more.

NEED FOR SPEED

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Stylish handbags for her and rugged packs for him—

these elegant leather totes let you take to the world in superior style.

BY CARLY MILNE

THE FASHIONOF FUNCTION

PHOTOGRAPHY by JEFF NELSON

STYLE BUREAU

33 WINTER 2013 S INSPIRATO.COM 33

HESTER VAN EEGHEN

INNER CIRCLE BAGWhen you’re traveling, you need pieces that can multitask. Hester van Eeghen’s Inner Circle bag, above, made of soft Italian calfskin, is a two-in-one purse that easily transitions from day to night. You can separate a clutch-sized “sidecar” from the larger shopper tote for maximum versatility. Plus, it’s fabulously fashionable.

AS PICTURED.PLATINUM, $699.HVEUS.COM

JESSICA GRANT

GRETCHEN OSTRICH TOTESupple and sexy, Jessica Grant’s Gretchen handbag, left, offers coy, self-assured style. Crafted from the finest South African ostrich leather, the bags can be abused without showing any signs of it. Available in an array of colors, the detachable strap allows you to wear it on the shoulder or the arm. Finished with suede lining, it’s as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside.

AS PICTURED.AFRICAN VIOLET, $3,699.JESSICAGRANTHANDBAGS.COM

GEORGE GUEST

HILLSIDE BACKPACKYou don’t have to sacrifice style for rugged wear—something George Guest knows well. The Hillside Backpack, above, is a stunning combination of 18-ounce treated duck canvas with a full-grain leather base and lined with 420 denier nylon. It offers more than enough room for everything you need on your trek, including an inner sleeve that fits a 17-inch laptop.

AS PICTURED.TAN & COGNAC, $265.GEORGEGUESTUSA.COM

SADDLEBACK LEATHER

GADGET BAGWhy stow your camera in an unremarkable pouch when Saddleback Leather offers this stylish Gadget Bag? Made from thick, full-grain boot leather and stitched with industrial marine-grade thread, it’s constructed with no breakable parts, insulates your electronics and looks stylish every step of the way.

AS PICTURED.DARK COFFEE BROWN, $280.SADDLEBACKLEATHER.COM

TOP SHOPPING ESCAPES

Go to inspiratomagazine.com and discover our favorite

holiday shopping destinations!


WHISKEY

COCKTAIL HOUR

JAMESON

VINTAGE RESERVE

This is a far cry from the Jameson you’ll find at the local pub. This

blend of “the oldest and rarest Jameson reserves”

provides rich, fruity aromatics and espresso

and dark chocolate flavors, evolving into a long

burnt-orange and toffee finish. $260, Astor Wine & Spirits, astorwines.com

KNAPPOGUE CASTLE

TWIN WOOD SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY

Relatively new to the U.S. market, this 16-year-old whiskey from a boutique

brand is finished in sherry casks, providing a rich, fruity aroma with

an oaky vanilla flavor that builds on the finish, accompanied by a little cinnamon spark. Only

1,900 bottles produced, all signed and numbered. $100, Shoppers Vineyard,

shoppersvineyard.com

REDBREAST

SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY, 15 YEAR

This County Cork beauty hits all the right notes: No wonder it’s a bartender favorite—as

is the lighter 12-year-old version. The 15-year-old is exceptionally velvety, layering fresh apple and pear with buttery brioche

tones. $75, K&L Wine Merchants, klwines.com

BUSHMILLS

“THREE WOOD” SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY, 16-YEAR

A tale of two tastes, this is a blend of two whiskeys matured 16 years each—one in a bourbon barrel,

the other in a sherry—then brought together in a port-infused cask. A sweet finish with an almond aroma sets this distinguished gentle-man apart. $70, Argonaut

Liquors, argonaut.com

THE TYRCONNELL

SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY, 10-YEAR

OLD CASK-FINISHED

Scotch isn’t the only single malt around. This one is made particularly special by extra aging time (cask finishing) in former port, Madeira or sherry casks. Look for

big, warm caramel flavor and a spicy finish, perfect

for pairing with a rich dessert. $80, Park Avenue Liquor, parkaveliquor.com

Five bottles, rare and great—and where to find them.BY K AR A NE WMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY by ANDY & GEMMA INGALLS

NIGHT IN THE CITYWhen it comes to libations in

Manhattan, there’s no shortage of

options. We like The Brandy Library in

Tribeca for its huge selection of fine spirits. Stop

by 25 North Moore St. #1 or

learn more at brandylibrary.com

HIGH SPIRITSThe culture of Irish whiskey

harks back to the Old Country, where only “three and a half” distilleries remain today. The first new distillery in 60 years

is set to open soon, a result of the spirit’s increased demand in the

States. Learn more about the surging popularity of Irish

whiskey on page 72.

love PREMIUM BRANDS. AMAZING PRICES. EVERY DAY.

This is the beginning of a fashionable friendship. Join us today at venteprivee.com

VP_inspiratoMagAd_v1.indd 1 8/20/12 9:47 AM


APP CENTRAL

CHOP CHOP!Visit inspiratomagazine.com

to find more on seasonalcuisine and peruse

some of our favorite holiday recipes.

WINTER 2013 S INSPIRATO.COM PHOTOGRAPHY by K RISTIN ANDERSON 37

From recipes to reservations , these five culinary apps offer sage insight into the wide world of cuisine.

BY WREN BOVA

BEFORE SMARTPHONES and tablets were commonplace, Gourmet and Bon Appétit magazines launched epicurious.com, a joint website that cornered the recipe-sharing

market. Users peruse the magazine’s easily searchable recipes and literature as well as an extensive database of approved bloggers, reader recipes and other culinary tidbits. The spin-off app takes all that collective wisdom mobile. Whether you’re impulse-buying your way through a Tuscan market or standing on the beach to get the catch of the day, epicurious can connect you with the right recipe, no matter whose kitchen you’re in.

THE GOLD STANDARD of recipe test kitchens, Cook’s Illustrated offers a fully vetted roster of recipes that goes beyond ingredients and basic instructions. Common pitfalls, theory behind particular techniques and an obsessive consideration of products are included in the recipes, as are whirlwind videos detailing the process in two-minute recaps. The app is best used as a companion to a comprehensive cooksillustrated.com subscription, which includes a much larger recipe database.

SOMETIMES ALL THE banter about food and ingredients can make reservations a simpler choice. Relatively new, Chefs Feed is a compendium of where well-known chefs eat in their hometowns, such as Austin, Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles and more. Momofuku’s David Chang likes the shrimp cannelloni at wd-50, while Jardiniére’s Traci des Jardins adores the pozole and homemade tortillas at San Jalisco. Search by city and chef, or simply see what other users are eating—and rating—around you.

EVER SEEN PROSCIUTTO cotto at a gourmet shop and wondered if it’s any different from prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto San Daniele? It is. All charcuterie-related questions can be answered on the Salumi app. You can browse the alphabetical list for something specific, such as andouille or speck, and discover its country of origin, what animal and cut it’s made from, and how. Many entries include historical significance and other tidbits. The database also is sortable by animal and region.

CREATED BY THE grocery store of the same name, Whole Foods’ app includes a large library of recipes. Those who are more goal-oriented in their searches will appreciate the easy-to-use filter system. Pick your course (main, breakfast, appetizers) and your category (family-friendly, portable/picnic, entertaining). Further refine by dietary restrictions (dairy-free, gluten-free, vegan), and take it from there. Or, simply type in one to three ingredients you have on hand and see what it recommends.

EPICURIOUS

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

CHEFS FEED

SALUMI

WHOLE FOODS

CLASSICSEASONALCUISINEThe bounty of summer demands little more than some olive oil and an open flame. But when the weather turns cooler, dive into some of these seasonal ingredients and tease out as much flavor as possible.

MUSHROOMSA staple in many cultures, mushrooms lend an earthy meatiness to dishes. Skip the white buttons—and even the commonplace crimini—and seek out chantrelles, porcini and oyster mushrooms.

WINTER SQUASHThough creamy butternut squash soup and broiled acorn squash are practical-ly seasonal rites of passage, don’t leave it at that. Look for kabocha, a Japanese pumpkin, that is delight-fully sweet—peel and all.

GARLICAll garlic is not created equal. Take advantage of the early fall harvest and opt for some heirloom varieties, such as the striped purple Per-sian and Siberian Star hardneck options.


PEOPLE & PROFILES

JENNA BUSH-HAGERA Tuscan getaway with close friends

48

Four sensational fall al fresco dining

destinations

56

FOOD& WINE

Cosmopolitan and contemporary, Toronto is a feast for the senses

52

CULTURE& LIFESTYLE

Play like the pros at Maui’s stunning

Kapalua Golf Resort

69

SPORTS& LEISURE

The PEOPLE, PLACES & PLEASURES that MAKE TRAVEL MAGNIFICENT

ESCAPE TO ST. BARTS’

LE SERENO SPA, PAGE 65


I N S P I R A T I O N THE INSPIRATO INTERVIEW

A successful career isn’t as fulfilling if you don’t take time to enjoy the rewards. Anthony Parker’s fast-paced life as a professional basketball player took him around

the country during nine years in the NBA and around the world playing overseas for six years, yet he rarely had time for more than a quick meal in any one place before moving

on to the next. ¶ Parker retired from the Cleveland Cavaliers recently and accepted a scouting position with the Orlando Magic, a job that will keep him closer to home

and his wife and two young sons, in Tampa, Fla. We caught up with Parker, 37, to talk about how he’s enjoying his newfound free time, including a family trip to the London Olympics to cheer on his sister and the gold-medal-winning women’s basketball team.

Basketball star Anthony Parker reflects on family, travel, career and where they all come together. BY TOM WILMES

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DOSSIERANTHONY PARKERBORN June 19, 1975CAREER Played 9 seasons in the NBA; 6 seasons with Maccabi Tel Aviv in Israel.Retired from the Cleveland Cavaliers in June 2012.KNOWN FOR Strong shooting, perimeter defense, clutch playsHIGHLIGHTS Israeli Super League MVP; Euroleague Final Four MVP; Euroleague MVP (twice), 2009 NBA Playoffs

Your sister Candace turned in an amazing

performance during the London Games. What was it like watching her perform on the world stage?

It was great. This was her second Olympics. She

claims that she really didn’t get to enjoy it the first time, but this one she made a point to sit back and take in the whole experience. Her husband and daughter were there, as well as my mom and brother and his wife. It was fun to be a part of it all, and she played really well. Every player has that game where they play especially well, and it just so happened that hers was the gold-medal game.

It’s only been a few months since you

announced your retirement from the NBA, but how’s the adjustment been?

I’m enjoying it. It’s been good for my family because

we know we’ll be settled here going forward, as opposed to always having to migrate either from the season back home or from home to wherever I’m play-ing at the time. My sons have gotten involved in some activi-ties that they wouldn’t normally have been able to participate in, which is important as they get older. I moved around a lot as a kid, so I can relate. I’m enjoy-ing time with my family and enjoying things that I other-wise wouldn’t be able to do.

You initially left the NBA to play for Maccabi

Tel Aviv in Israel; how was that experience?

My first year over there was the biggest adjust-

ment, both on and off the court. A lot changed in a short amount of time—I had just gotten mar-ried, and we moved to the other side of the world where we didn’t understand the language. But it turned out to be the best experi-ence. We have friends all over the world now, and being familiar with a lot of different countries and languages really gives you a different perspective on people both abroad and at home. I really embraced the experience and am so happy that I was able to have it.

How did playing overseas advance your game

and allow you to return to the NBA as a starter?

It gave me the opportunity to continue playing at a high

level and, in doing so, to mature as a player and evolve my game. My best basketball experiences happened when I played for Mac-cabi Tel Aviv. I went over there with the intent of trying to get back to the NBA the very next year, but after that first year I was like, “This is kind of nice. I could get used to this.” If the NBA was something that made sense and happened to me then great, and if it didn’t then I would be con-tent with my career overseas.

You led Maccabi Tel Aviv to five Israeli

Super League national championships, three European titles and you were also voted Euroleague MVP two years in a row. Was there a degree of recognition when you went out in public?

Yes, there was. Israel isn’t in Europe, but we partici-

pate in the European league, and among European teams Israel and Lithuania are hugely into basketball. People think of the Yankees and the Dallas Cow-boys as America’s teams, and that’s how Maccabi Tel Aviv is to Israel. There’s a great degree of national pride in Israel, and people really rallied around our team. I developed a great rela-tionship with the fans; howev-er, I was always happy to come back to the U.S. and be with my family and have private time.

That’s also where you adopted the number 18,

which you wore throughout the rest of your basketball career.

The number 18 is related to chai, which is a sym-

bol of life and good fortune in the Jewish faith. For me it was a way to bring the experience that I had with Israel and Mac-cabi Tel Aviv and the fans back to the States—to let them know that it wasn’t all forgotten.

Were you always focused on your next game, or

did you have time to enjoy the places that you visited?

With a basketball sched-ule you don’t have a lot

of time to see the sites while you’re traveling, but we did have a couple of rare opportuni-ties. I did get a sense for differ-ent cultures and perspectives around the world, and that was really refreshing. Anywhere you go people are basically the same—they want good things for their children and pretty much the same things that you or I would want. Traveling abroad really drove that point home.

What are your travel priorities now?

Living overseas really sparked a love of travel,

and we try to take our kids along with us as much as we can. Last summer we went back to Israel—it was the first time we’d been back since my youngest son was born there—and it was great to show him where he was born and visit our friends. It’s so valuable to experience dif-ferent things. I can’t imagine how much my kids’ perspective differs from mine at that same age, not having been to nearly as many places as they have.

THE FLAME BURNS ON

Go to inspiratomagazine.comfor more on Anthony Parker

and his experience at theLondon Olympics.

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THE GIVING

JOURNAL

A cancer diagnosis is always overwhelming, but even more so when a child is involved. In seconds, a family’s entire life can be turned upside down.

The months and years of treat-ments, complicated medication regimens and doctor visits that follow can push any family to its emotional and financial limits. That’s where The National Chil-dren’s Cancer Society comes in. “We provide financial, educa-tional and emotional support for families with a child in treat-ment,” says the NCCS Director of Marketing Lori Millner. Over the past 25 years, the NCCS has helped more than 30,000 fami-lies get their children the neces-sary treatment and better deal with cancer’s many impacts.

It starts with the family’s nonmedical expenses. “Travel, meals, gas—these are the ancillary expenses no one thinks about,” Mill-ner says. To date, they’ve distributed some $54 million to cover those costs.

NCCS also offers educational sup-port and resources, including free web conferences on topics such as “Late Effects from Radiation.” And crucial emotional support is fostered through the close relationships that develop among families in crisis. “These families become very connected to our casework-ers,” Millner says. “The case-workers share their joys and traumas; they provide counsel.”

Any child diagnosed with cancer, anywhere in the coun-try, is eligible for assistance from the NCCS. First contact is usually made by a social worker at the hospital where the child is diagnosed. “They let us know about the family’s treatment plan,” says Jessica Cook, program coordinator for the NCCS. “Then we contact the family, find out needs and talk about how they’re doing.”

Transportation costs are often a large financial burden. “A lot of hospitals offer special-ized treatment,” Cook explains. “Maybe the best treatment is in New York, but the family lives in Idaho… traveling to New York every three weeks would be cost prohibitive. Even if the hospi-

tal is only half an hour away, driving there every day for radiation is a bur-den.” More often than not, fami-lies also struggle financially with a loss of income because one par-ent has left a job to care for the child.

Yet, Cook says, it’s typically the

child who keeps the family strong throughout the process. “I’m always amazed how the children often keep the parents’ spirits up. The parents struggle with being scared, with want-ing to take the burden away from the child. But the spirit of the child keeps the family going.”

In every way possible, the NCCS keeps a family strong too.

It’s typically the child who keeps the family

strong throughout the process.

I marvel at how bravely families cope with life’s greatest challenges—and how

groups like The National Children’s Cancer Society provide the support they need

in trying times. BY SUZANNE BOPP

Photos Courtesy of THE NATIONAL CHILDREN’S CANCER SOCIETY

43

I N S P I R A T I O NNON-PROFITS & CHARITIES


Any child diagnosed

with cancer, anywhere in the country,

is eligible for assistance from the NCCS.

trials & triumphsThe National Children’s Cancer Society helps families bear the burden

of treatment through financial assistance and a network of people and events to support emotional

and medical needs. With the help of this community, Melanie, far left,

finished a 5k race just five months after a bone marrow transplant and

a 3-year-old’s dream came true when she met Snow White. The network

helped Grayson, above left, battle a brain stem tumor at 1, and 14-year-old Brandon, shown above right

two months after brain surgery, get back to a normal teenage life.

LET’S MAKE IT BETTER

TOGETHERTo learn more

and show your support, turn to page 114 or visit

inspiredgiving.com

44

THE GIVING

JOURNAL


CChicago high school student Learesi Montes had never heard of Step Up Women’s Network when she happened to meet the program director at a class picnic. Afterward, she decided to check out a meeting. “It was amazing. I was so inspired,” Montes says. “There were so many women there who were so successful. I wasn’t exposed to that where I grew up.”

One woman, a schoolteach-er, became her mentor after that first meeting. They talked books, then colleges, application essays and career possibilities.

And that’s precisely how SUWN works: Teen girls in underserved communities connect with pro-fessional women mentors and

chart new possibilities for their own futures. “When a girl has the opportunity to be mentored by a woman she admires, it is magic,” says SUWN CEO Jenni Luke. “A mentor’s role is to look at a girl and see her potential, not her past or her circum-stances. It is life changing.”

SUWN currently partners with schools in New York City, Chicago and Los Angeles. Any girl enrolled in those school districts can join their mentor-ship programs that help girls become “confident, college-bound and career-ready.”

During 9th and 10th grades, SUWN girls attend weekly after-school programs that use the arts—collages, music, creative

I am so appreciative of the opportunities I was given as a young woman, and know how

empowering it is for underprivileged teen girls to team up with professional female mentors. BY SUZANNE BOPP

Photos Courtesy of STEP UP WOMEN’S NETWORK


I N S P I R A T I O NNON-PROFITS & CHARITIES

45

writing—to help them explore their identities, interests and skills. One example: A recent creative writing project had girls start with the words, “Just because I’m a girl doesn’t mean I...” Each one decided how to fill in that sentence (one wrote “…like to wear skirts”) and illustrat-ed her declaration with photos.

In 11th grade, monthly meet-ings shift focus to career readiness, and the 12th grade program is all about college preparation, culminating in a paid summer internship.

SUWN is also dedicated to helping its professional men-tors, creating an environment where those women can grow and connect with other like-minded women. They have access to networking oppor-tunities, professional develop-ment events and power break-fasts. This commitment to the mentors keeps the cycle going. When the mentors advance pro-fessionally, they have more to invest and offer the program.

One measure of SUWN’s suc-cess: This is the third year in

which 100 percent of Step Up seniors have graduated high school and 100 percent have been accepted to college. It is a telling statistic, consider-ing the circumstances in which most of these girls are raised.

Montes will attend the Univer-sity of Wisconsin this fall, study-ing education policy. She still marvels at the power of SUWN, and that women she didn’t know were willing to help her find her way. “Someone I never met…they already believed in me,” she says. “Every girl should have that.”

“A mentor’s role is to

look at a girl and see her potential,

not her past or her

circumstances. It is life

changing.”

Empowering Young WomenStep Up Women’s Network strives to empower teen girls in underserved urban communities. Through weekly activities and consistent mentoring with successful women, the girls benefit from a network of supportive individuals who help them dream—and achieve—big. Learn how you can help at suwn.org

LET’S MAKE IT BETTER

TOGETHERTo learn more

and show your support, turn to page 114 or visit

inspiredgiving.com


ITALIAN SOJOURNWhen a group of longtime friends spends a week at

a storybook estate in Tuscany, complete with

local chef and a romantic surprise, it could become

the trip of a lifetime.


I N S P I R A T I O NPEOPLE & PROFILES

Jenna Bush-Hager knows a thing or two about traveling. Personally committed to myriad causes around the globe, she spends most of her time abroad in her work with UNICEF, helping children in need. But not all of her high-flying journeys involve labor over leisure. Recently, the two-time author and regular Today show correspondent took time off to tour Tuscany with her husband of four years, Henry Hager, and eight of their clos-est friends. The tight-knit group checked into the luxurious and sprawling Il Campanile, located near Siena on a private estate originally built by the Arringh-ieri del Porrina family, medieval members of Longobard nobility.

“It was amazing,” says Bush-Hager about the experience. “From the second we arrived everyone was so gracious and kind. We had such high expectations, and every sin-gle one of them was met.”

When former first daughter Jenna Bush-Hagerand close friends travel to a 14th-century hilltop

estate in Tuscany, lifelong memories become a daily departure. BY L AUREN PAIGE KENNEDY

PHOTOGRAPHY by MIA BA XTER & MOLLIE DEVINE


I N S P I R A T I O N PEOPLE & PROFILES

Il Campanile The breathtaking estate is a mix of 14th-century ambiance and 21st-century amenities with orig-inal architecture restored, brick by brick, in all three of the guest residences—La Villeta, Villa Belleza and Villa Collina. Think fully equipped, state-of-the-art kitchens with private chefs and cooking demonstrations, roaring fireplaces outfitted with pizza ovens, and a serene swimming pool surrounded by chaise loung-es and lush Italian terrain. With nine bedrooms, nine and a half baths and 12,700 square feet for roaming and relaxing, the only reason to venture off the estate is to explore the nearby rolling hills and picturesque towns.

The friends’ escape brought many adventures. Among the most memorable, Bush-Hager describes a starlit evening when a couple among them got engaged to the surprise and delight of everyone in attendance. Sur-rounded by their closest pals, the newly betrothed celebrat-ed well into the night in “the most romantic place imagin-able,” Bush-Hager gushes.

“We’d always planned to dress up and have a masquerade-themed last meal,” she says. “We all brought cocktail dresses, and the boys their tuxedos or suits, but we didn’t know our friends would be engaged, so of course that made it even more special. And we went around the table and gave toasts to the trip, and shared our favor-ite memories, and toasted the future bride and groom. It was a wonderful engagement!”

Exploring Tuscany But there were plenty other once-in-a-lifetime moments along the way. For instance, in Siena, the friends were direct-ed by the Il Campanile chef to a truly hidden gem. “We walked all around the town, saw the old church and strolled the streets and shops. And then we went to a little restaurant that we would never have known about if Sophie the chef hadn’t recommended it,” she recalls.

They also toured the region’s array of vineyards. “We sampled special wines from Tuscany and met the people who own the vine-yards—these amazing people—and heard their stories. Those days were just unbelievable.”

Bush-Hager, who’s frequently photographed by the tabloids working up a sweat while tak-ing New York City spin classes, recounts the group bike trek they took into the Italian countryside.

“We’re all super-athletic, but the hills of Tuscany were a bit more than we bargained for,” she says, laughing. “It was hard, but also really cool because we saw all these medieval towns and stopped at a vineyard, and we ended up at the owner of the bicycle tour’s home, off a dirt road with his kids run-ning around. His wife cooked us this very fresh, really deli-cious, really authentic meal and told us all these wonderful tales. It was lovely to sit in his garden, their home and back-yard, and [enjoy a meal] they would serve to their own fam-ily. Those are the authentic moments with people who live in the region that we loved.”

Savoring the CultureBut Bush-Hager has a special spot in her heart for the Il Campanile estate itself. “On one of our favor-ite nights,” she recalls, “we had a chef come in and cook pizza in the pizza ovens in the house, right there in the courtyard. And on another night Sophie gave us a cooking lesson, and we made this incredible menu together. It was great learning the customs and culture of Italy through food.”

So what did they prepare in the kitchen that night? “Sophie taught us how to make home-made pasta, which is a very complicated process if you’ve ever done it. Plus bruschetta,” she recalls. “Sophie brought in all the ingredients from her own garden. It couldn’t have been any fresher. We also made two kinds

of sauces, one with vegetables and one classic bolognese sauce. And tiramisu for dessert… The typical, delicious Italian meal.”

On the Road AgainBush-Hager was in London this summer to broadcast a story on the Olympics for NBC, and next she will “travel around Europe a bit,” she says. “I’ve been...a few times; Henry and I are trying to find someplace new to explore.”

They also want to do more jetsetting before starting a family, which she demurely admits her parents, George W. and former first lady Laura Bush, would love to see hap-pen soon. For now, the couple is quite content with “our pet Barney,” once famously known as America’s first dog, now pushing 13 years old. Besides, she insists, there are so many more exotic lands to discover.

“I’ve always had serious wan-derlust,” she explains. “My hus-band and I both have jobs that keep us traveling incessantly. I’ve never been to Asia, and I’m really hoping to get there sooner rather than later. I’m also dying to go to India. I’d say those will be my two next trips whenever I get a second. And sometimes it’s nice, since we’re so busy, to just have a weekend at home in New York—it feels almost luxurious. But I love, love, love traveling.”

WE SAMPLED SPECIAL WINES FROM TUSCANY AND MET THE PEOPLE WHO OWN THE VINEYARDS AND HEARD THEIR STORIES. THOSE DAYS WERE JUST UNBELIEVABLE.”

DOING WELLBY DOING GOOD

Once famed for keeping her Secret Service detail on its

toes—she and her sister, Barbara, loved nothing

more than outsmarting and losing the agents assigned

to them—a more seasoned Jenna Bush-Hager now focuses on work, travel, philanthropy and social

consciousness, not hijinks.

UNICEF’S NEXT GENERATION

Bush-Hager is the chair of Next Generation, launched

in 2009 to “save, protect and improve the lives of children around the world,” according

to the organization’s website.The former first daughter

adds, “By volunteering, fundraising and advocating

for UNICEF’s lifesaving programs, we hope to

mobilize a new generation and end the senseless

deaths of so many young children.” The group tackles

malnutrition as a first-line defense in developing nations, plus raises funds

and awareness. unicefusa.org/about/

unicefs-next-generation

THE NOVO PROJECTClose friends and founders of The Novo Project, Bush-

Hager and Mia Baxter “share a passion for travel, food, art, stories and photos of

the people and things that are making an impact in the

global community,” claims their website. Its mission is

to spotlight game-changers, thought-influencers and

serve as inspiration for innovations in design and

creative pursuits. For example, “we might highlight a sustainable bakery,” Bush-

Hager tells us. “Or anything that shapes our culture.”

thenovoproject.com

SHUTTERBUG?Visit inspiratomagazine.com

to see more photos from Jenna Bush-Hager’s

Tuscany trip.


CELEBRATING IN STYLEThe group threw a formal masquerade ball on the last night of the trip, a fitting way to top off the week of vineyard and bicycle tours and candlelit dinners under the Tuscan moon.


I N S P I R A T I O N CULTURE & LIFESTYLE

Well known as a busy financial hub, Toronto is as much about play as it is work.Discover these samplings of cuisine, culture and outdoor adventure that

capture the heart of this global hotspot. BY MICHELLE SINGERMAN

SPOTLIGHT

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PIZZERIA LIBRETTOStaying true to Neapolitan tradition, this pizzeria ordered its wood oven from a third-generation pizza oven maker in Naples, Italy. Pizzas rely on authentic ingredients baked in a 900-degree oven that creates a blistered crust you’ll dream about until next time. Make reservations if you can.

ACADIAThis East Coast-inspired restaurant serves up dishes with fresh, sustainable ingredients. The menu is rooted in the Atlantic provinces, with specialties like Lois Lake Steelhead and skillet cornbread. The drink menu lives up to the food.

LA CARNITAWhat started as a pop-up taco food truck soon became a Toronto sensation. Now permanently located in the city’s Little Italy neighborhood, dine in this avant-garde space and enjoy authentic Mexican dishes with a hint of North American flair.

WINE BARSet near the city’s unique Distillery District, Wine Bar offers an extensive wine list and locally sourced, artisanal foods served tapas style. With exposed brick, an open kitchen and a giant wall of pickled ingredients, this restaurant and lounge is a must-see.

BIER MARKTWith more than 100 beers from 24 countries, this is one place every beer lover should visit in the city. But the food holds its own with a bountiful mix of European favorites like Vienna schnitzel and a wurst board, along with lighter fare like Arctic char.

DINING

TOP CHEFS PUTTHEIR SKILLS TO WORK

IN KITCHENS ACROSS THE CITY, ALWAYS

TESTING BOUNDARIES AND PUSHING

THE LIMITS.

CUISINE SCENE Wine Bar, left, features an open kitchen and locally sourced artisanal foods in a personable atmosphere, while The Boiler House, above, is a grand and lively space in the heart of Toronto’s Distillery District.

PHOTOGRAPHY by TRACY COX

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YORKVILLE This snazzy district is the epicenter of high-end shopping in Toronto. Yorkville Avenue itself consists of elegant cafes, boutiques and galleries. South to Bloor Street and north to Davenport Road hosts everything ritzy from Holt Renfrew and Louis Vuitton to the Hazelton Lane shops and any designer store you can dream of.

KENSINGTON MARKETFor a completely different experience, visit the eclectic neighborhood of Kensington Market. Running along three streets in the downtown core, the area offers everything from distinctive art galleries to incredible independent cafes, stores and restaurants.

THE DISTILLERY DISTRICTThe historic Distillery District is unique in look and feel. Restored brick-lined streets of old breweries and Victorian warehouses create an inviting Old World charm highlighted by restaurants, theaters, shops and galleries. The Boiler House restaurant epitomizes this lively part of town with exposed brick-and-beam architecture and an innovative menu.

WHATEVERYOU’RE LOOKING

FOR, FROM FASHION TO HARD GOODS,THIS CITY HAS IT.

SHOPPING

STORIED & SWANK Blackbird Vintage, top, and The Potting Shed, bottom left, represent the historic charms and character of The Distillery District. Yorkville is the neighborhood’s modern counterpart with upscale designer stores, boutiques and galleries.

PHOTOGRAPHY by TRACY COX


I N S P I R A T I O NCULTURE & LIFESTYLE

FARMERS’ MARKETS Pick up farm-fresh ingredients for dinner or stop for a local, artisanal snack while walking through a park. Check out the seasonal markets at Trinity Bellwoods, Dufferin Grove, Evergreen Brickworks (to name a few) and the year-round St. Lawrence Market.

HIKINGExtensive trails meander through the city and surrounds. Set out on the paths from High Park and enjoy more than 400 acres of rolling hills, ornamental gardens, rare oaks and even a zoo. If you left your gear at home, stop in to Mountain Equipment Coop to satiate your outdoor apparel needs. Discovery Walks is a system joining the city’s hundreds of

acres of ravines, beaches and parks. Follow the signs for a self-guided adventure as long or short as you want. The Belt Line and Beaches are great choices.

GARDENSPreviously a garden estate, Edwards Gardens boasts wild flowers and mature trees along winding trails that span 35 acres. The Toronto Botanical Garden sits on the property, showcasing award-winning themed gardens.

THE CITY ISAN ECLECTIC BLEND

OF BUSTLING MARKETS,OLD WORLD CHARM

AND A WORLDLY COSMO FLAIR.

ACTIVITIES

GET THE GOODSThe St. Lawrence Market offers an enormous array of fresh foods and personalities. A long-standing locals’ favorite, the market is a must-see for any visitor to get the true flavor of Toronto.


I N S P I R A T I O N FOOD & WINE

As the world’s green goes gold,relax into a seat at one of these outdoor

tables and dine divine. BY AMY ZAVAT TO

Ah, travel. You plan and plot to piece together that unforgettable, in-the-moment experience you’ve dreamt of for months, maybe years. Shouldn’t the cuisine be as awe-inspiring as the scenery?

Of course it should. ¶ Summer is not the only season to dine outdoors. Indeed, by incorporating the beauty of autumn and the uniqueness of the locale into your dining scene—be it a harbor-

side patio on the Cote d’Azur or a riverside perch in California wine country—you are sure to unwrap one of travel’s greatest rewards.

¶ We’ve sought out four tempting tables around the world that you should treat yourself to … show-stopping scenery included.


Mediterranean Magic ACHILL’S Villefranche-sur-Mer, France

What says romantic summer frolick-ing more than pretty Provence? From turquoise waters to ballet-

shoe pink rosé flowing from carafes up and down the Cote d’Azur, it’s the ultimate beach-centric getaway. Add the soundtrack of lapping waves and lilting langue Fran-çaise and you have a dream in motion.

But there are an awful lot of ho-hum (and overpriced) eateries along the beauteous blue coast—and with such belle scène in your midst, you’d like the eye candy to continue on the plate, bien sûr. For a seat with a sweep-ing view of a small harbor just outside Nice, check out Achill’s in Villefranche. Entering its third season, Achill’s delightfully chilled-out vibe and simple but super-fresh menu make it the kind of place you’ll find your sandal-and-sarong-clad self wandering into more than once. Grab a seat on either the umbrella-dotted terrace or the see-for-miles rooftop (closed during the winter months) and hunker down for honest Provencal cuisine without the price gouging. Best bets: Start off with a chilly, vibrant-orange bowl of refresh-ing gazpacho, dig into a pile of plump moules mariniéres, the sweet velvety mollusks made fragrant with white wine, garlic and fresh herbs, or perhaps a slice of tatin de chèvre et courgettes (goat cheese and zucchini tart). Just make sure you abandon all restraint at the door, ending it all with their light-as-air white chocolate crepes. C’est magnifique!

Achill’s 2 Quai Am CourbetVillefranche-sur-Mer

FRENCH TOASTSA picturesque harbor

sets the perfect scene for a whimsical meal

along the Cote d’Azur.

PHOTOGRAPHY by REBECCA MARSHALL


I N S P I R A T I O N FOOD & WINE

RIVER’S EDGE The Russian River offers

a picturesque backdrop for patrons at Zazu on the River, chef and co-owner John Stewart’s

(right) new outpost. Known locally as Sonoma

County’s first “pork shack,” it’s renowned for

a killer BLT (below).

PHOTOGRAPHY by ED ANDERSON

Ciao Time IL POSTALE Tuscany

It’s a given that you will drink well in Tuscany. Is it also a given that you will eat well in Tuscany? Well, surprisingly, no.

To dine deliciously among the rolling hills and dales of the Tuscan countryside takes a little bit of exploring. And one of the greatest finds in all the region is the forward-thinking cuisine of chef Marco Bistarelli, whose Michelin-starred Il Postale in hilltop-perched Perugia will, quite frankly, blow your mind.

Here, we trade al fresco dining for dining under historic ceiling frescos at one of only four tables in the medieval stone Monterone Castle (theatrical European setting: check). While the storybook scenery is vacation-dreamy, as soon as the food arrives you could be eating in a box for all you’ll notice—every ounce of attention will be on Bistarelli’s beautiful plate presentations and your taste buds, as whispers of “mmmmm” and “ohhhh” and “yummmmm” breeze through the room. Peer inside the tiny and tidy open kitchen and smell the tempting aromas of dishes like risotto with creamy artichokes, roasted sweetbreads, white truffles, or the duck-duo of honey-kissed breast and leg confit with smoked, savory eggplant. Sigh…


On the Vineyard ZAZU ON THE RIVER California Wine Country

Husband-and-wife chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart have always been inspired by the ter-

rific local produce that surrounds their successful Sonoma-centric spots: Zazu in Santa Rosa and the late, great Bovolo in Healdsburg. But their recently opened Zazu on the River will inspire you, too.

Grab an umbrella-shaded table in the midst of the organic garden (where your meal’s ingredients have just been plucked, naturally) overlooking the gurgling Russian River and get ready to dig into John and Duskie’s decadent dishes. This California wine country gem is open only during the day, an idyllic hideout to while away an after-noon. Graze upon the maple-bacon popcorn, black pig bacon-wrapped dates, and bright watermelon and blistered-tomato gazpacho while sipping on wines from Davis Family Vineyards. And to be filed under Throw-Your-Calorie-Counting-in-the-Russian River: Do not under any circumstances miss Duskie’s peanut butter ice cream sandwich, complete with chocolate dipping sauce from America’s first bean-to-bar chocolate maker, Scharffen Berger of San Francisco.

Rooftop Splendor NOMAD HOTEL Manhattan

Beyond Central Park, or a trek out to the beach in the Rockaways, it can be challenging to find great outdoor

space in New York City. Rather than trying to carve out a narrow sidewalk spot, one of the best newcomers in the city opted to build up instead. The intensely talented chef Daniel Humm—who made his mark at Danny Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park—is rolling aces at his new spot, NoMad Hotel, as well.

Humm’s ethereal dishes with outstand-ing ingredients are even better sampled on the pedestal perch of the eponymous lower Midtown Beaux Arts-style hotel’s rooftop. It can be about as tough to score a seat as scaling the sides of the building itself. Reservations for each day are sold in the form of tickets that are available starting at 11 a.m. from the website only. But, oh, is it worth it…

Up, up in the elevator you’ll go, opening to decadent velour-upholstered seating in the lounge for cocktails and the first course, and then off to the round tumbled-marble table for the rest of the four courses of the nightly tasting menu. Escaping the bustle of the streets below, this rooftop nest serves romance and glamour in the ultimate urban al fresco environment.

ROOF WITH A VIEW Fall for autumnal flavors

on the roof of New York City’s NoMad Hotel.

NoMad1170 BroadwayNew York, New York

Il Postalein Castello di Monterone3 Strada MontevilePerugia, Italy

Zazu on the River at Davis Family Vineyards52 Front St. Healdsburg, California

PHOTOGRAPHY by DAN K RIEGER

SURF’S UP!Visit us online at

inspiratomagazine.comand see what’s cooking

at our five favorite beachfront patios.

shop online at

boccia.comor call 800-360-2586

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I N S P I R A T I O NFAMILY & FRIENDS

For a holiday trip that extends far beyond the ski slopes, Lake Tahoe is the place to be. BY CINDY HIRSCHFELD

HEAVENLY.

Totally Tubular

Heavenly boasts the moth-er of all tubing hills. With five 500-foot-long lanes and

a stomach-reeling 65-foot verti-cal drop, this is the biggest tubing setup on the West Coast. You’ll find it at Adventure Peak, where there’s also sledding and ski-bike rentals along with spectacular views of Lake Tahoe during the gondola ride up.

Heavenly’s base village lies in the heart of South Lake Tahoe, with shop-ping and restaurants aplenty. When you’re ready to take a break from all the down-on-the-ground action, head to the South Lake Tahoe Airport, about a 10-minute drive, for a scenic tour with Reno Tahoe Helicopters. Your kids will be thrilled to don head-sets and hover in the air; and every-one will enjoy a bird’s-eye perspective of the lake and the Sierra peaks.

When it comes to a ski vacation, most of us look for skiable acres, annual snowfall, price of a lift ticket or number of spas… But when it comes to planning a great family get-away, the real question is: Is it fun? At Lake Tahoe’s many ski areas, the answer is a resounding yes. Each resort has made significant improve-ments over the past several years and offers such great family-friendly amenities that a winter trip to Tahoe doesn’t need to be a ski vacation at all.

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NORTHSTAR.

The Ultimate Après-Ski Hangout

The Village at Northstar is the most happening place for kids to hang out in Tahoe when the

lifts shut down. A 9,000-square-foot ice skating rink anchors the scene, surrounded by cabanas and fire pits that families stake out starting in the mid-afternoon. If you notice an alien elbowing aside your s’mores stick, don’t panic—it’s just Northstar’s mas-cot Marty the Martian, who enter-tains daily during après-ski. Kiosks in the plaza sell crepes, waffles and other tasty snacks, and the Rubicon Pizza Company is often packed with youngsters when it’s time for some-thing more substantial. Northstar offers tubing for on-snow family fun, but if your kids don’t mind propel-ling themselves by their own power, check out the mid-mountain Nordic center. Guided family snowshoe tours run along the center’s trails once a month and end with hot choco-late and cookies. Or for something different, you can test your family collaboration and treasure-hunting skills by geocaching on snowshoes or cross-country skis; several caches are hidden just off the Nordic trails, and the center rents GPS units.

KIRKWOOD.

Fly Through the Sky

The newest member of the Vail Resorts family, Kirkwood is a great place for kids to go fast

and furious. Open weekends and holidays, the Kids’ Adventure Zone at the Timber Creek base area combines tubing, sledding and—extra cool—a place for kids to drive mini-snowmo-biles around a track (as long as they’re under 100 pounds). But how about zooming through the air? The recent-ly built Zip Tahoe, for ages 8 and up, has eight ziplines and three sky bridg-es that run above the forest along the ski area slopes. Taking zippers as high as 75 feet above ground and as fast as 35 miles per hour is thrilling and most certainly not for the faint of heart.

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SQUAW VALLEY/ALPINE MEADOWS.

Snowmobiles & Swimming

Last year’s merger between these two adjacent resorts was big news, but for now Squaw

remains the top draw for off-slope kids’ activities. At the base area SnoVentures zone, kids ages 6 to 12 can ride their own mini snowmo-bile around a track to get a taste of big mountain adventure. It’s a blast for parents too, as they’ll no doubt watch the video of their burgeon-ing motorhead for years to come. Kids may not believe it when they hear they can swim on the moun-tain, but it’s true: Squaw’s legendary mid-mountain High Camp complex has a large free-form pool and a hot tub, as well as a skating rink that’s open all winter. Because High Camp can be accessed via Squaw’s aerial tram, it’s a good place to hang out on a non-ski day while still being in the mountain environ-ment. Several restaurants and cafes offer breakfast and lunch here as well. SIERRA-AT-TAHOE.

May the Force Be With You

At this laid-back resort just south of the lake, kids ages 3 to 6 don’t have to be huge fans

of Luke Skywalker, or even know what a Jedi is, to love the Burton Star Wars Experience. They just need a snowboard and a sense of adventure.

Opened last Janu-ary, this collabora-tion between Bur-ton Snowboards and Lucasfilm is designed specifically for peewee shredders. They’ll start indoors on a special balance board, then quickly progress to the mini-terrain park outside, with decorated Star Wars characters and inter-active features that

help kids learn to maneuver and con-trol their snowboards. And the boards have retractable leashes so instruc-tors can tow toddlers who haven’t quite mastered the art of sliding on their own. Sierra also has Blizzard Mountain, a great option for young kids who aren’t ready to ski or board. Located next to the base, it has a gen-tle tubing hill and a snow play area.

I N S P I R A T I O NFAMILY & FRIENDS

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KNOW THE RIGHT PEOPLE AND MICHIGAN AVENUE COMES TO YOU.

Live the life. For reservations, call 877.458.7867 or visit TrumpChicagoHotel.com.

NEW YORK | CENTRAL PARK + SOHO CHICAGO LAS VEGAS WAIKIKI TORONTO PANAMA

DORAL GOLF RESORT & SPA MIAMI COMING SOON WASHINGTON D.C.

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Next time you self-indulge, bypass the basic massage and opt for a Harmonizing Gemstone Treatment or one of these

extraordinary services. BY K ARA WILLIAMS

I N S P I R A T I O NHEALTH & BEAUTY

Next to diamonds,spas are a girl’s best friend!

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After a day of air travel or a long stint in the car, a trusty deep-tissue massage is just the ticket for relieving sore mus-cles or working out tight knots. Lately, however, I’ve been trying to expand my horizons a bit when I travel—especially since resort spas are an ideal place to try new treatments. After all, what better place to pamper yourself than on vacation, with a treatment you just can’t find at home? Following are some spa services to consider on your next trip. Some of them are trendy (will we still see dia-mond facials on the menu in five years?) and others are timeless (ancient Thai techniques have been practiced for centuries). But all are worth experiencing.

The Diamond StandardDo minute amounts of diamonds, gems and crystals in lotions and oils truly help purify, brighten and polish your skin? Person-ally, I think the jury’s still out on that one…but if you have a free hour on vacation, plus a couple hundred dollars to spare, a dia-mond facial or gemstone massage may leave you with baby-smooth skin for the rest of your trip.

FIND IT HERE At Trump SoHo in New York City, the Harmoniz-ing Gemstone Treatment will feed your body with essential trace ele-ments, while semi-precious stones are applied to each chakra to rebalance the body’s energy. The Five Diamond Gemstone Facial at ARIA in Las Vegas features a special serum rich in micron-ized diamonds and extract of pure orchid to smooth fine lines.

Asian InfluenceYou don’t need to travel halfway around the world to experience the soothing and spiritual influ-ence of therapists well schooled in the art of Thai massage. East meets West in many resort spas, where traditional European-style facials are on the menu right alongside the ancient Chinese art of reflexology, Javanese Lulur rit-ual or Hindu Ayurvedic massage.

FIND IT HERE Interestingly, there is a vast array of Asian therapies in the Caribbean’s Six Senses Spa in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic. Herbal packs with tur-meric and lemongrass are applied to the skin in the Thai Herbal Compress treatment (which is said to improve one’s qi flow).


YOU’LL FIND SEAWEED CONCENTRATE AT OCEANFRONT RESORTS AND ESSENTIAL OILS INFUSED WITH ALPINE WILDFLOWERS AT MOUNTAIN SPAS.

Indigenous IngredientsUsing locally sourced prod-ucts that feature extracts made from area plants, fruits and flowers has become the norm at spas worldwide. You’ll find seaweed concentrate at ocean-front resorts and essential oils infused with alpine wildflow-ers at mountain spas. Same goes for clay, mud and salts used in body wraps and scrubs.

FIND IT HERE The Transpira-tion treatment at Spa Montage in Deer Valley, Utah, ends with a rhythmic massage using nutritive aspen-bark extract. Spa services at Le Sereno on St. Barts use skin-care products by Ligne St. Barth, manufactured on the island.

Whole-Body WellnessInstead of offering isolated treat-ments that make a guest feel good, many resort spas offer wellness coaching, nutrition counseling and personal training that can help vacationers effect beneficial changes in their health long after they’ve returned home. While you might not be able to fit in a visit to the dietitian dur-ing a busy workweek, perhaps you can take some time out of a beach day to seek counsel on a long-lingering health concern with an expert practitioner.

FIND IT HERE At Hualalai Resort on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast, book a session with a chiro-practor, acupuncturist, physi-cal therapist or even a holis-tic sound/energy healer.

Just for MenMore often than not, I’ll walk into a resort spa’s co-ed relaxation room to find robed men waiting for therapists to call their names. Indeed, spa services are hardly just for the girls; men find thera-peutic massages hugely benefi-cial to sports performance and overall well-being. Gentlemen’s facials cater to male skin with non-perfumed products, and spe-cial shaves hark back to the clas-sic, old-fashioned barber shop.

FIND IT HERE I love that the Esperanza Resort in Cabo San Lucas appeals to men’s tastes with the Mexican Beer and Lime Facial, which features steam-ing hot towels to open pores and a massage that eases tension in the neck, shoulders and scalp.

I N S P I R A T I O N

AN INTERLUDEWITH RELAXATION A spa treatment can be

a microcosm of an entire vacation: local ingredients,

new experiences and a willingness to sit

back and submit to the ministrations of trained

professionals. Step outside the norm and

relax into a new space.

HEALTH & BEAUTY

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I N S P I R A T I O N GOLF GETAWAY

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It’s time. Spend more time at your destination and less time getting there. With NetJets®, a fl ight is always just a phone call away. Guaranteed. No lines. No delays. No hassles. So you can cut your total travel time by as much as 50% versus commercial. With NetJets’ exacting safety standards, the world’s largest private jet fl eet, and the unmatched resources of Berkshire Hathaway, why would you choose anyone else?

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I N S P I R A T I O NSPORTS & LEISURE

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Situated along Maui’s northwest shore, the five-star Kapalua Resort is an eco-chic paradise that blends harmo-niously into the surrounding rain forest. Every amenity is thoughtfully provided for at Kapalua, including a wide variety of lodging, dining and shop-ping to suit any style, and an award-winning spa that makes use of indigenous products and individualized treatments to soothe mind and body.

Best of all, this 22,000-acre former pineapple plantation is a year-round, world-class golf des-tination all on its own. Kapalua’s two Tour-proven courses—the Plantation Course and the Bay Course—make excellent use of the island’s diverse topogra-phy, tropical setting and con-sistently beautiful weather to provide an unparalleled golf experience. Add in the world-renowned Kapalua Golf Acad-

emy, and there’s simply no better setting for golf on the planet.

Kapalua’s two courses—one nestled into the mountains and the other stretched along the bay—offer completely unique experiences, vastly dif-ferent challenges and won-derful layouts. And if you play different tee boxes from one round to the next, you’ll nev-er see the same shot twice.

The weather is as consistently predictable as the great golf at Kapalua, with highs that typi-cally remain in the mid-80s and lows that rarely dip below 65 degrees. No matter what time of year you play Kapalua, count on clear skies and a brief shower at some point during the day. Locals call these brief bursts “liquid sunshine” because the sun continues to shine through the sporadic rain clouds, which come and go within minutes and refresh the landscape.

Experience golf at its finest at Maui’s Kapalua Resort, where a

tropical setting, peerless service and challenging courses make for

unrivaled play. BY SCOT T KRAMER

THE FAMOUS 18THAt 663 yards, hole No. 18 is the longest on Kapalua’s Plantation Course and renowned for the spectacular views. Teeing off on the 12th, below, presents a stunning vista as well.


I N S P I R A T I O N SPORTS & LEISURE

THE PLANTATION COURSEMeandering through the West Maui Mountains, the Planta-tion Course at Kapalua perpetu-ally ranks among the world’s best. It hosts the season-opening PGA Tour event every year—the Hyundai Tournament of Champions—where only win-ners from the previous year’s PGA Tour events are afforded the opportunity to play the par-73, 7,411-yard course that was co-designed by Ben Cren-shaw and Bill Coore in 1991.

The layout boasts wide fair-ways and large greens that readily accommodate shots influenced by the steady 15- to 30-miles-per-hour trade winds, especially at the course’s higher elevations.

The holes are contoured and sloped to gently (and some-times dramatically) move errant shots back toward the fairway, and golfers generally find that the north-to-south direction of these prevailing winds helps their game. The occasional Kona breezes from the south, on the other hand, can turn some of the Plantation’s longer holes into outright marathons.

Speaking of long, the 18th hole—the Plantation’s longest—stretches a massive 663 yards from its tips but is all down-hill. Take in the staggering view from the elevated tee box, which may be the single-best vantage point on the entire island, and then send your drive toward the horizon. Golfers frequently find their drives landing in the spa-cious fairway and then bounc-ing and rolling well beyond their normal tee-shot distance.

Overall, guests find the course very playable with opportunities to score well. Tour pros typi-cally do well here as well, as the course is among the Tour’s most

forgiving. At last count, there were 97 bunkers throughout the course. While strategically placed and penal, many of them are avoidable because of the vast fairways. The recently renovat-ed greens feature new Bermuda grass that can be mowed to a tighter height and allow for a truer roll. Greens here play fast and have plenty of undulation. Playing the course more than once, as well as making use of local knowledge on the greens, is the surest way to shoot low.

After the round, bets are often settled at the Plantation House Restaurant in the grand club-house, which is consistently ranked as one of Maui’s top din-ing experiences. It’s a soothing

blend of Hawaiian hospitality, great food, casual atmosphere and incredible views. Time your round to end later in the day, and you’ll witness breathtaking sun-sets over the Pacific with views of neighboring islands Molo-kai and Lanai in the distance.

THE BAY COURSEThe Bay Course stretches 6,600 yards along the rugged shore-line with sweeping ocean views and a player-friendly layout that affords golfers the opportunity to score well. This par-72, Arnold Palmer-Francis Duane designed course opened in 1975, and is the epitome of a Hawaiian resort-style course with its rolling ter-rain, an abundance of water haz-ards, 68 bunkers and consistent winds that blow right down to the shore. Holes are routed through towering palms and flowering hibiscus, and some along the front nine border picturesque homes owned by celebrities.

The scenic par-3 fifth is Maui’s only hole that plays directly over the ocean, and in this case

requires golfers to carry their tee shots over the gorgeous One-loa Bay. While the front nine snakes around the heart of the resort and the on-property Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, the back nine meanders through elevation changes, hills and barrancas, with postcard-perfect views of the island’s natural splendor. Most of the backside is sheltered from the trade winds—that is, until the closing trio. The 16th hole features a carry over a pond onto a split fairway, and is regarded as one of Hawaii’s best par 4s. No. 17 is a par 3 that’s pro-tected by two large bunkers on the front side, and the par-5 18th hole can play longer or shorter depending on the prevailing winds. The Bay is a champion-caliber course that plays host to the PGA Tour’s Kapalua Interna-tional tournament, and is also the former host site of an LPGA event. But with its stunning ocean views, predictable winds and friendly terrain, it remains a perennial favorite among golfers of all skill levels.

First-time visitors will be wowed by the spectacular scenery and life-list worthy golf at Kapalua, while the resort’s many repeat visitors can simply never get enough of it.

WAVE ALOHAFrom the pounding surf to the sun-drenched afternoon showers, water plays into every round on Kapalua’s Bay Course.

TRAIN WITHTHE PROS

KAPALUA GOLF ACADEMY

As great as the golf is at Kapalua, the resort’s

world-renowned instruction program may be even better.

Set near the resort’s entrance, this state-of-the-art teaching facility

features a 2,500-square-foot learning center,

85,000-square-foot grass teeing area with

range and targets, greenside and fairway

bunkers, practice putting greens, a three-hole walking course, 18-

hole putting course and much more. No wonder

GOLF Magazine ranks Kapalua Golf Academy among its “Top 25 Golf

Schools” in America. The indoor/outdoor

hitting bay is replete with an advanced digital

video analysis system, and the experienced

staff is made up of PGA Professionals

who communicate well and can assist with

expert instruction and club fitting. Individual or group lessons can be customized to suit

your needs, and the various clinics range from a half-day up to

a full week. Your game will improve after a visit to the Kapalua

Golf Academy.K

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BIRDIE-EYE VIEWA bit removed

from the rocks, the Kapalua Bay Course’s

ninth green is one of the more serene

holes on the course.

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EXPERIENCE THE PGA SEASON OPENER

The Plantation Course at Kapalua plays host to

the first event on the PGA Tour each year: Hyundai

Tournament of Champions. The tournament’s winner-

only format means that only champions from the previous season

are invited to compete. For more details on the

event, see page 22.


I N S P I R A T I O N HISTORY & TRENDS


TA global artisan movement has hit

Ireland’s whiskey trade—and its exportsare worth finding. BY K ARA NEWMAN

THE IRISH WHISKEY

RENAISSANCE

tonight, the entire bar is painted in shades of Irish whis-key. Mica-shaded lamps cast a golden glow down the length of the copper-tiled bar top. Even the jazz playing on the sound system lends an appropriately sepia-toned speakeasy back-drop. And every glass glints with the amber hue of whiskey.

“Have you ever considered changing the name of the bar to Whiskey Library?” I ask the bartender at Tribeca’s Brandy Library. (Despite the name, whiskey outsells brandy here.) He just smiles indulgently, and pours me another dram of single malt Irish whiskey.

Yeah, you heard me, buddy (something about the hard-scrabble history of Irish whis-key always inspires a little tough talk)—single malt isn’t only for Scotch. In fact, Irish whiskey offers a number of excellent bottlings to rival whiskey of any provenance.

But the irony is that while Ireland is making plenty of great whiskey, very little of it is staying there. Instead, many of Ireland’s high-end whiskeys are being sent to the U.S., the country’s number-one export market for spirits—including New York, a city densely populated with Americans of Irish descent.

Which has landed me here in downtown Manhattan, scanning one of the best Irish whiskey lists in New York.

GROWING FASTOver a glass of The Tyrconnell’s 10-year-old single malt—an Irish rose that spends its final months in casks that previ-ously held Madeira, giving the whiskey a pleasingly nutty, faintly peachy flavor—Brandy Library’s Head Spirit Sommelier, Joel Cueller Flores, describes Irish whiskey’s recent ascent.

“Irish whiskey has more accessible and approachable flavors” compared to other types of whiskey, he explains. When set next to challenging Scotch and oft-sweet bourbon, golden Irish whiskies are light and fresh, often fruity and grassy, and with a light hand on the peat,

LOCATION & COCKTAIL PHOTOGRAPHY by ANDY & GEMMA INGALLS

THE INSPIRITEDTRAVELER


if it’s used at all. Yet, they’re still complex enough to hold a drinker’s interest.

No wonder gentle, drinkable Irish whiskey has been building quite a fan base on American shores. According to the Distilled Spirits Council, Irish whiskey is the fastest-growing spirit cat-egory in the United States, with an enviable 23.6 percent increase in volume sales in 2011 alone. Much of that popularity can be traced to a single brand, Jame-son, which has developed a fol-lowing among younger drinkers.

While Jameson may have blazed that trail, other labels are paving it gold with aged blends that have matured in port or sherry casks, and unique limited-edition bottlings.

Only a month earlier, I’d traveled through Ireland—and frankly, I hadn’t noticed most of these brands on the shelves at pubs and bars. In Ireland, the whiskey offerings were fairly limited, and most people seemed to drink beer or wine, not whiskey. How could this possibly be?

“Yeah, they don’t really drink much whiskey in Ireland,” confirms Tim Herlihy, an Ireland native who relocated to New York in November to become a brand ambas-sador for William Grant’s Tullamore brand (they call him “Tullamore Tim”). Whiskey doesn’t have the same cachet there that it has in the U.S., he explained.

But it wasn’t always that way.

HISTORY BY THE HIGHBALLIn its early days, Irish whiskey was widely considered superior to all other European whiskies. Queen Elizabeth I was said to favor Irish whiskey; Peter the Great, Czar of Russia, wrote, “Of all the wines, the Irish spirit is the best.” Even Scottish distill-ers would export their wares to Ireland and have them stamped as Irish before selling them back at home for a higher price.

What made Irish whiskey so wonderful? Most experts point to the use of round-bellied pot stills for imparting character and flavor during the distillation process. The pot still contin-ues to play a significant part in Irish whiskey’s flavor today.

But a key turning point came in 1830 when Irishman Aeneas Coffey developed the column still, allowing distill-ers to produce in a week what would take nine months to make in a traditional pot still.

Though it was cheaper and more accessible, the end product paled in comparison to pot-still whiskey, and prominent Irish distillers of the day dismissed the tasteless spirit that flowed from the column still as “silent spirit.”

The Scots, however, were more receptive, and from 1860 onward, they started selling a

A WEE BIT O’WHISKEY

HISTORY

SEVENTH CENTURYAccording to common (but murky) lore, missionary monks arrive in Ireland and teach people how to distill aqua vitae, or "water of life,” in order to make medical compounds.

1608In a license to distill dated April 20, 1608, Bushmills Distillery is established in Countie of Colrane (now known as Coleraine).

1779The Distilling Act passed by Parliament results in heavy taxation for distillers, and is based on a still’s capacity. The number of licensed stills drops dramatically, though the number of unlicensed stills rises exponentially.

GOLDEN AGE Joel Cuellar Flores pours more whiskey than brandy at New York City’s Brandy Library. The spirit is in the middle of an artisan resurrection. Instead of being produced quickly (and cheaply), time-intensive distillery processes have been recently revived.

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WHISKEY WISEJohn Jameson, founder

of Jameson Irish Whiskey, was born in Scotland in 1740.

Thirty years later he moved to Dublin to open

his distillery in what was then the hotbed

of spirits production. Though most Scotsmen won’t admit it, the Scot-tish most likely learned about distillation from the Irish. For our five favorite Irish whis-

keys, turn to page 34.


I N S P I R A T I O NHISTORY & TRENDS

whole new product: a blend of “silent spirit” and heartier pot-still whiskies. Scotch was born.

Unfortunately, the century that followed saw a downward spiral for Irish whiskey, thanks to an unusual confluence of events. The war that eventually led to Ireland’s independence also led to an economic standoff, and the loss of the English markets. Just a decade later, Prohibition meant the loss of America as an export market. It may have seemed like the end of the line for Irish whiskey—but there was still some fight in the industry yet.

FIGHTING IRISHThreatened with extinction in the early 1900s, the Irish whiskey industry banded together into a single company. Even today, the Irish labels are produced at just three distilleries (Scot-land, by comparison has nearly 100 operational distilleries).

But the Irish whiskey come-back didn’t truly pick up steam until the “Celtic Tiger” days of the early 1990s, when it began to awaken from its long slumber. The Cooley distillery opened for business and began resur-recting old Irish brands like Tyrconnell—and also resur-rected the use of the pot still.

Today, the key players are: Bushmills, in Northern Ireland (owned by Diageo); the New Mid-leton Distillery, near Cork, which

produces Jameson, Redbreast (both owned by Pernod Ricard) and Tullamore Dew (owned by William Grant), among others; and Cooley, on Ireland’s east coast, which produces Tyrcon-nell, Connemara and Michael Collins, among others. Cooley is the youngest and, until its recent acquisition by U.S. spirits company Jim Beam, was the last independent, Irish-owned distillery in operation.

Rounding out the current landscape, some also count micro-distillery Kilbeggan, bringing the tally to “three and a half.” And in September 2012, Tullamore opened its doors as the first new Irish distillery in 60 years, although distillation isn’t anticipated to start until 2014.

Since many of the fine aged Irish whiskeys coming to market now were first created during the Celtic Tiger period, the greats wouldn’t have been ready for release until quite recently. After all, the oldest Irish whiskey on the market—Bushmill’s 21-year-old—had to be put down for its beauty sleep in 1991. But most importantly: This means an influx of excellent whiskeys is coming to market.

GOING LUXENow, Irish whiskey is more than ready for prime time.

Consider, for example, the Irish whiskey “flight” offered at Brandy Library to showcase the ever-widening array of flavors in the category. Tipplers can taste their way through amber drams of Greenore 8-year-old, with a corn-heavy recipe that bears comparison to its corn-fed American cousin, bourbon; luxe Knappogue Castle 16-year-old, with its aromatic sherry maltiness; or even the surpris-ing smoky notes of Connemara, perhaps the only peated Irish whiskey on the market (and a good transition for those who enjoy peaty Islay Scotches).

“I love all of these,” insists Flores, when prompted to pick a favorite. “If you offer me a glass of any of these, I’ll not turn it down.”

It’s no exaggeration to say that there’s never been a better time in recent history for those who love Irish whiskey. The options are wider—and bet-ter—than ever before, and it’s taken a luxurious turn. It may not be long before we all start viewing the world through the warm, welcoming amber of Irish whiskey-colored glasses.

THE DUBLIN.This beautiful topaz drink is a riff on the classic Brooklyn, typically made with rye whiskey. Don’t skip the orange peel—it offsets the sweet notes of Amaretto for a more complex aroma.

2 ounces Irish whiskey 2 ounce amaretto 1 ounce dry (white) vermouth Fresh orange peel, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine all liquid ingredients with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Rub the underside of the orange peel around the rim and drop it into the glass.

IRISH CARAVAN. A smoky black tea gives the Irish Caravan its Old World character. Steep the bags for five minutes to ensure a strong brew.

2 ounces Irish whiskey 2 ounces pine- smoked black tea 2 ounces St. Germain elderflower liqueur 4 ounces fresh lemon juice Club soda Fresh lemon peel, for garnish

In a tall Collins glass, stir together the whiskey, tea, elderflower liqueur and lemon juice. Scoop in ice cubes and stir again to chill. Top up with soda water and garnish with lemon peel.

OFF THE ROCKSSO YOU ENJOY A FINE IRISH WHISKEY ON THE ROCKS,

BUT WANT TO FIND A WAY TO CHANGE IT UP? YOU’RE IN LUCK. AS BARTENDERS REDISCOVER THIS VELVET

AMBER, THEY ARE CREATING NEW COCKTAILS SURE TO BECOME CLASSICS. HERE ARE TWO FAVORITES FROM

BRANDY LIBRARY MIXOLOGIST JOEL CUELLAR FLORES.

1830Aeneas Coffey creates the column still, making the distillation process more efficient. What originally took 9 months to make now takes a week. Production soars; quality dives.

1880Roughly 160 distilleries in Ireland produce Irish whiskey. After phylloxera takes out France’s cognac crop, Irish whiskey becomes the world’s most popular spirit.

1890More than 400 brands of Irish whiskey are exported to and sold in the United States.

1952San Francisco restaurateur Jack Koeppler visits Ireland and drinks his first Irish coffee. He returns home and starts serving up to 2,000 a day in his cafe, the Buena Vista. Tourists and locals alike flock to the restaurant to drink it.

1980Thanks to a perfect storm of hefty taxes, American Prohibition, a loss of reputation and changing tastes, Irish whiskey production is at an all-time low. Only two Irish distilleries are producing Irish whiskey.

2011Irish whiskey is the fastest-growing spirits industry globally. A revival of single-pot stills and artisan practices takes it from a blending whiskey to a sipping one.

An influx of excellent whiskeys is coming to market right now.

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A BOLD NEW EXPRESSION OF COGNACHandcrafted at Château de Cognac in France, D’USSÉ™ VSOP is the latest creation from the 200-year-old house of exceptional cognac.

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. www.dusse.com ©20

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FALL 2012 S INSPIRATO.COM

A SHORT FLIGHT TO WORLDS AWAY, TURKS & CAICOS BOASTS ENDLESS

STRETCHES OF SECLUDED WHITE SAND BEACHES,

WORLD-CLASS DIVING AND A TRUE ISLAND-

LIFE DEMEANOR.

By James SturzPhotography by Steve Passmore

Visit Turks & Caicos Islands, and you’ll need to pack a color chart along with your swimsuit. How else to name the dozens of variations of blue that radiate out from the islands’ beaches? First, you’ll wade through inch-deep aquamarine. Then you’ll splash through cerulean, pale turquoise, light jade and cyan, before reaching a 7,000-foot-deep coral wall bathed in Prussian and cobalt blue. Out of the water, vast reaches of white sand beach, as fine as confectioner’s sugar, seduce visitors into long leisurely strolls. Whether you seek relaxation or ocean adventure, opportunity abounds—above and below the waves—in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Here is your guide to the best of this Caribbean jewel.


Twelve-mile-long Grace Bay Beach earns its fame for wide, white stretches that go on and on, but it’s hardly Turks & Cai-cos’ only option. You’ll want to rent a car to visit Providen-ciales’ less-frequented gems. Here’s our Provo beach primer:

GRACE BAY BEACH Named for Lady Grace Hutch-ings, who honeymooned on the island in 1892 and report-edly charmed everyone she met, Grace Bay Beach is both the busiest part of the island and its most open and serene. Turtle Cove Mari-na gives the beach’s west-ern end a more nautical feel, while the Leeward area on Grace Bay’s northeastern tip occasionally attracts a few scofflaw nude sunbathers.

LONG BAY BEACH For isolation, there’s no better choice than this three-mile stretch along Provo’s southeastern shore, which opens onto the glimmer-ing Caicos Bank. Instead of sacking out on a towel, con-sider a horseback ride in the surf with Provo Ponies.

CHALK SOUND AREA BEACHES The small beaches at Sapo-dilla Bay and Sunset Bay (a.k.a. Taylor Bay) on Provo’s south-ern shore are mostly used by nearby villas. Just behind them, the road cuts through Chalk Sound National Park, a three-mile inland waterway, where locals like to say there’s a cay for each day of the year. Once you’re done driving, swimming or sunbathing, stop at the bottom of Sapodilla Hill on South Dock Road and fol-low the trail to the top to find rocks engraved by shipwrecked sailors, dating back to 1767.

MALCOLM’S ROAD BEACH This comparatively “short” two-mile beach is the hard-est to reach on the island, but that’s how it stays pristine. To find it, take the nominally paved Blue Hills Road past Wheeland, and then follow signs for Northwest Point Marine National Park. Scuba divers visit daily for the coral, but the above-water beach is just as pretty. The chaises on the beach’s southern tip belong to the Amanyara resort, an ideal stopping point for lunch.

BLUE HILLS BEACH At 161 feet above sea level, Blue Hills isn’t just the oldest settlement in Provo, it’s the highest spot in all of Turks & Caicos. Take in vast views of the coast from Blue Hills Road, which runs along the coast, and enjoy a swim at any of the pocket beaches along the way. Stop for a tasty conch dish at any of the local shacks dot-ting the roadside to refuel.

SINGIN’ THE BLUES

The 40-island, 100-mile

archipelago has 230 miles of white

sand beaches. Visitors tend to stay

on Providenciales (better known as “Provo”) and the

legendary Grace Bay Beach (left). But all of the islands are equally accessible

by air or ferry, each offering its own unique charms.

Providenciales

GRACE BAY BEACH

MALCOLM’S ROAD BEACH

BLUE HILLS BEACH

West Caicos

North Caicos

LONG BAY BEACH

CHALK SOUND AREA BEACHES

Middle Caicos

East Caicos

South Caicos

Ambergris Cays

Salt Cay

Grand Turk

Parrot Cay

Pine Cay

B E A C H E S

INSPIRATO MAGAZINE S WINTER 2013

This morning, I’m on Big Blue Unlimited’s 40-foot Live & Direct, racing across the Cai-cos Bank, off Provo’s southern shore, to neighboring French Cay. Perhaps I’d be feeling more serene if the divemaster hadn’t just told us the island was once home to 17th-century pirate François L’Olonnois, who used it as a base for plun-dering passing Spanish ships. As the story goes, L’Olonnois was such an accomplished torturer that he wouldn’t just cut the hearts out of prison-ers; he’d eat them, still beat-ing, while others watched.

Of course, all of that washes away as we descend beside the boat. Beneath the water, 80 percent of French Cay is encrusted with coral. We start at a site called Double D (named for two large under-water humps), where we swim past three-foot groupers, four-foot barracudas and bar-rel sponges the size of cars. A trumpetfish cruises by, big as a bassoon, and the horse-eye jacks number in the thousands. Spiny lobsters and green moray eels lurk inside holes, while purple-and-yellow fairy bass-lets, blue chromis and bright red cardinalfish transform the water into a confetti of color.

Our second dive is at G-Spot (this time named for the gorgonian corals, the size of

garage doors), and we imme-diately descend upon a pass-ing Caribbean reef shark, which graciously fins out of our way. Then a spotted eagle ray swims past us, followed by a pair of hawksbill turtles. Three more reef sharks glide over the wall; another ray trails behind, with a remora dangling from it. Yet back on-board the Live & Direct, no one is impressed. A “good” dive here, I’m told, starts with a dozen eagle rays or sharks.

What makes diving in Turks & Caicos so stunning is the combination of clear water with visibility sometimes topping 150 feet, the planet’s third-largest reef system with 196 square miles of reef, and the fact that there are so many distinct marine parks and sites in the archipelago to explore. After French Cay, my favor-ite area to dive is Northwest Point Marine National Park, off Provo’s northwest tip, where getting caught in the eye of a few hundred spiraling jacks is fairly typical, and I’ve some-times felt stuck inside a fish

stampede. But there are also the dozen sites in West Caicos Marine National Park, chocka-block with snappers, stingrays, hogfish and puffers, and Prin-cess Alexandra Land and Sea National Park, which encom-passes Grace Bay Beach, and is ideal for novice and night dives alike. The last time I dived there, after dusk, the trevally were so plentiful I could actu-ally reach out and touch them.

And that’s just the western chain of islands. Heading east across the 22-mile-wide Turk Island Passage (you’ll want to go by plane), the archipelago’s capital of Grand Turk sits high atop many must-dive lists, while Salt Cay, eight miles south, is the archipelago’s best place to spot the North Atlantic herd of 2,500 hump-back whales each year, from early January to mid-April. Turks & Caicos is one of the few places in the world where captains and snorkelers are legally allowed to approach the whales—and even if you don’t see them, you can’t miss hear-ing their songs underwater.

GOING DEEPFOR CONCH

There’s no better way to enjoy fresh conch than to

dive 15 feet down with a mask and fins and hunt for them

yourself, which you can do off Gibbs Cay, just a short boat ride from Grand Turk. Once

you’ve grabbed a few dinner-plate-sized specimens—if the

diving proves too deep, the divemasters can do it for you—

you’ll learn on shore how to transform the conchs into a tangy ceviche, which entails

cracking them open with an ax, prying out the meat, and then

cutting, rinsing and dicing, before marinating the cubes for 15 minutes with lemon,

lime, vinegar, red and green peppers, onion, celery, tomato and parsley flecks. As anyone

will tell you, the dish goes very well with the local Turk’s Head beer. But if you prefer staying dry, there are lots of options for enjoying conch, which is

also served breaded and fried, or in a chowder, curry or

stew. Consider the following Provo restaurants for conch

and other island plates.

SAILING PARADISE RESTAURANT & BAR

Visit this standout Blue Hills beach shack for Provo’s best conch, or choose the grilled

fish with pigeon peas ‘n’ rice.

DA CONCH SHACK & RUMBAR

Long an island favorite, Da Conch Shack keeps its

conchs in a pen off its beach, and is equally adept at

preparing lobster, shrimp and a potent rum punch.

HOLE IN THE WALL With a different menu each

day of the week, the brave and curious can venture beyond classic Jamaican fare and

try curried goat, cowfoot and beans, and (only on Fridays)

manish water, a stew of diced goat head and tripe that’s

venerated as an aphrodisiac.

COCO BISTRO Set in Provo’s largest palm grove, this romantic gem

focuses on pan-Caribbean cuisine with an Asian and

European flair, offering dishes from blackened tuna with red Thai curry sauce to

herb-crusted roast lamb rack with Caicos onion sauce. Save

room for the coconut pie.

82

D I V I N G

A DIVER’S DREAM A proliferation of

marine life and the world’s third largest

coral reef system make Turks & Caicos

one of the best diving destinations

on the planet.

SPORTING LIFE There is every opportunity to get into the water and have some fun. The crystal-clear shallows make for great snorkeling, world-class fishing, sea kayaking and more. Take a sailboat farther out or try a hand at kiteboarding for some more intense action. Truly, Turks & Caicos has it all.

TWO FINS UP

Inspiratomagazine.com is where to discover why Smith’s Reef, off Provo’s

Turtle Cove, is the best place for snorkeling in the entire archipelago.

85 FALL 2012 S INSPIRATO.COM

Beyond Provo, the other islands of Turks & Caicos are worth exploring, either as day trips or overnight. Here are some favorites:

LITTLE WATER CAY Home to 2,000-plus endan-gered rock iguanas, many measuring two feet in length. The horned crea-tures mostly scurry across rocks, while visitors stick to a well-maintained boardwalk, five minutes by boat from Provo’s Leeward Marina.

NORTH CAICOS A 12-minute flight from Provo or 25-minute ferry from the Leeward Marina, North Caicos is home to most of the archi-pelago’s farms. But you’ll also find a few thousand pink fla-

mingos, outstanding snorkel-ing at Three Mary Cays, jaw-dropping Horsestable Beach and eerie plantation ruins at Wades Green; Big Blue Unlim-ited runs day trips on bikes.

SALT CAY Once the world’s leading salt producer, the 2.5-square-mile island today is a quies-cent collection of salt ponds, 19th-century stone and stucco buildings, and wild donkeys and cows (which have the right of way). From mid-January to early April, Salt Cay is also Turks & Caicos’ prime spot for watching whales.

MIDDLE CAICOS The largest of the chain, 48-square-mile Middle Caicos is a 15-minute flight from Pro-vo, or a half-hour drive from North Caicos’ ferry terminal. Hike the five-mile Crossing Place Trail, swim and snorkel

in the natural lagoon at Mudjin Harbour, or explore three-square-mile Conch Bar Caves, the largest above-ground cave system in Turks & Caicos or the Bahamas, with blind fish and shrimp, and several thou-sand flapping, squealing bats.

BIG SAND CAY Seven miles south of Salt Cay, this island’s beach is one of Turks & Caicos’ least vis-ited and finest. Loll on the sand, and then explore the lighthouse ruins and two abandoned bunkers marked “Keep Out. U.S. Govern-ment Property.” Whether you do is strictly up to you. Trips leave from Salt Cay.

GRAND TURK Scuba divers flock here and cruise ships dock here, but Grand Turk’s charms extend beyond both. Founded by Ber-mudian salt rakers in 1681, the island’s capital, Cock-burn Town, is the archipel-ago’s historic, political and administrative center, with weathered colonial build-ings and the national muse-um along its streets.

Beyond diving and snor-keling, Turks & Caicos is famous for other water-sports, especially fishing.

For light-tackle trolling, deep-sea-, fly-, bottom- or bone-fishing in Provo, try Sil-ver Deep or Hook’em Fish-ing Adventures. Dedicated anglers should also consider spending a few days at North Caicos’ Bottle Creek Lodge.

For wakeboarding, surf-ing, kiteboarding, waterski-ing and tubing, try Nautique Sports. For sailing, Beluga Private Charters is ideal. Top dive center Big Blue Unlimited also offers stand-up paddle-boarding and kayaking.

Bred-in-the-bone extrem-ists need look no further than Caicu Naniki for guided swim safaris and free-diving classes or excursions—as well as for Middle Caicos trail treks or runs. But if your goal is simply to relax, the open-air cabanas at Provo’s Thalasso Spa at Point Grace will keep you floating blissfully.

MAKEA SPLASH

If sticking to the shallows, Smith’s Reef, off Provo’s Turtle Cove, is the best

place for snorkeling in the entire archipelago, and you can easily wade out from shore. Otherwise,

these local dive shops will see to all your needs:

PROVO Big Blue Unlimited,

which also runs kayaking, paddle-

boarding, kiteboarding and mountain-biking excursions, bigblue.tc

GRAND TURK Bohio Dive Resort,

bohioresort.com

SALT CAY Salt Cay Divers, saltcaydivers.tc

E X P L O R I N G

W A T E R S P O R T S


rom London to Los AngeLes, there wAs A time you knew whAt to expect when going out for A

serious meAL: white tAbLecLoths, bLAck ties, high prices… but A revoLution is brewing from

one cuLinAry cApitAL to the next, with renegAde chefs turning the stAid dining scene on its

heAd. they’re cooking wiLd food in wide-open kitchens, mingLing with diners, Amping up the

music. formALity’s out At mAny of the worLd’s most infLuentiAL restAurAnts—And reservAtions

Are too. here, we profiLe six trAiLbLAzing young chefs who Are chAnging the wAy we dine.

BY JAY CHESHES

WINTER 2013 S INSPIRATO.COM

the mad scientistChicago was once exclusively a meat and potatoes town, tired

and traditional, powerhouse meals there judged by the size of the steak on your plate. A few years back, though, a handful of brazen young chefs began taking their food way out on a limb,

tinkering with new kitchen gadgets—and with powders, gels and chemical compounds—carving out a new niche, as

avant-garde in its own way as the Steppenwolf Theatre. Leading the charge among these mad scientist chefs

was a baby-faced native of Michigan named Grant Achatz, who opened his flagship, Alinea, in 2005

when he was just 29. With its abstract food and space-age décor you might have been dining on

the Holo-deck of the USS Enterprise. The restau-rant served 23-course tasting menus that veered

from savory to sweet and back again. One dish may have been flash-chilled on an anti-griddle at minus

30 degrees, another served on a pillow inflated with enticing aromas. The restaurant, which remains one of

the toughest reservations in the Windy City, has earned its chef every possible accolade. Two years into its very good run, Achatz, diagnosed with tongue cancer, lost his ability to taste.

He chronicled his recovery and struggle to keep the restau-rant going in a memoir, Life, On the Line. Last year, cancer-free,

he pushed the envelope further still, launching a new project, Next, that changes its menu and concept every three months (a

recent run focused on Sicily). The restaurant, which sells tick-ets to dinner, may be the country’s most impossible to get into,

with tables sold on Craigslist for as much as $3,000 apiece.

ALINEA1723 N. HALSTED ST. // CHICAGO // 312.867.0110

alinea-restaurant.com

NEXT953 W. FULTON MARKET // CHICAGO

nextrestaurant.com

87

EXHIBITION DINING To polish the presentation at his restaurants Alinea and Next, left, Grant Achatz hired Martin Kastner as his tableware sculptor to create special dishes and utensils to serve delicacies like pheasant with smoking oak leaves, opposite, and raspberry transparency, above.

GRANT ACHATZ

PHOTOGRAPHY by LARA K ASTNER ( FOOD) & CHRISTIAN SEEL ( RESTAURANT )


the vegetable kingIn a country where mushy peas, canned beans and frozen French fries pass for vegetables and meat pies and battered fish remain fast-food staples, building a national reputa-tion on fresh, local produce is no easy feat. In recent years, though, Yotam Ottolenghi’s vegetable-centric, multicultural cooking has become a sensation not just across London but

beyond British borders as well. The Israel-born chef was already a big star by the time he opened his

first serious restaurant, Nopi, last year in Lon-don’s West End. He’d built a citywide following with his deluxe deli chain (known for its gor-geous salad displays) and his weekly column, “The New Vegetarian,” in the Guardian newspa-per. The chef ’s cookbook, Plenty, has become a bestseller in the U.S. as well. His is vegetable cookery for carnivores—not vegetarians—put-ting meat, fish and fowl in supporting roles mostly. The menu at Nopi, which takes a Middle

Eastern-style shared plate approach, features exotic flavors from around the world—with tastes of Southeast Asia (banana leaf steamed fish), Italy (romano peppers with almond pesto), India (pea fritters with cardamom yogurt) and Japan (miso-butterscotch duck), among other spots on the globe. Ottolenghi, who is all about building bridges, in life and in food, is part-ner in all of his ventures with a Palestinian, Sami Tamimi.

NOPI21-22 WARWICK ST. // LONDON // 44 (0)20.7494.9584nopi-restaurant.com

OTTOLENGHI DELISVARIOUS LOCATIONS IN LONDONottolenghi.co.uk

EXOTICVEGETARIAN

The ground floor of Nopi, above, is elegant with

marble and brass; downstairs, the

basement has long, canteen-

style tables with a view of the open

kitchen, where items such as

veal carpaccio and burrata with citrus

are prepared.

YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

PHOTOGRAPHY by KEIKO OIK AWA


the outlawFrench haute cuisine, once a national treasure, has in recent

years become a bit of a public relations embarrassment, the country’s best restaurants eclipsed on the international stage

by edgier spots in Denmark, Spain—even the U.S. and Eng-land. The creativity’s been stymied, say critics, by the staid

standards of the Michelin star system, and by the complacen-cy that comes from being too long on top. Raffish young chef Inaki Aizpitarte doesn’t look much like French

food’s salvation, with his scruffy beard and rock-star demeanor. The Basque-born provocateur—a sort of food world Serge Gainsbourg—rose to promi-

nence overnight in 2006 when he launched his first restaurant, Le Chateaubriand, in the still

rough-and-tumble Belleville section of Paris. The place, which looks like any old casual bistro, serves a daily changing five-course tasting menu that, at 55 euros, is one of the best deals in town. It’s also one of the hardest to get your hands on. The phone at the restaurant is rarely answered, and drop-ins

aren’t particularly encouraged either. The service inside is famously brusque and the food, based entirely on the chef ’s

personal whims—and his mercurial moods—can vary dramati-cally from night to night, brilliant one time, a disaster the next.

In spite of all that, Aizpitarte is perhaps the most talked about young chef in Paris these days. Though his restaurant has no

Michelin stars, it’s widely considered among the most exciting places to eat in the city (ranked 15th on an influential list of the world’s greatest restaurants). His new spot, Le Dauphin—right

next door—serves natural wines and cutting-edge tapas in an austere space designed by superstar architect Rem Koolhaas.

LE CHATEAUBRIAND129 AVENUE PARMENTIER // PARIS // 01.43.57.45.95

LE DAUPHIN131 AVENUE PARMENTIER // PARIS // 01.55.28.78.88

CULINARY ADVENTURE Dining at chef Aizpitarte’s restaurants is always rewarding. Whether a mackerel with watermelon and shiso amuse bouche, left, or veal with truffles, below, it’ll be an experience to savor.

INAKI AIZPITARTE

PHOTOGRAPHY by ALI KURSHAT ALTINSOY


the fire breatherThe California food revolution that spread across the country back in the ’80s—banishing butter for olive oil, putting fresh, seasonal produce on everyone’s table—started in the Bay Area. Its legacy lives on in the locavore fervor and clean, simple flavors

still found at many of San Francisco’s top restaurants. But an alternative take on California cooking has been

gaining momentum in recent years, reflecting the state’s fiery, funky demographic stew. Danny Bow-ien, an Oklahoma-born Korean-American chef, is the new poster boy for this new melting-pot style of cooking, combining flavors from across the Asian Diaspora with his barbecue-belt sensibil-ity. Mission Chinese Food, the restaurant he’s run with partner Anthony Mynt since 2010, may be the city’s most unlikely sensation. The business, which started as a food truck, donates a portion

of its profits to charity. It operates out of a derelict Chinese joint in the city’s Mission District that still looks exactly as it did before they moved in, although the long nightly lines out front attest to the explosive cooking found within. Bowien touches on Japanese, Taiwanese and Korean tastes, but his real focus here is on the incendiary numb of traditional Szechuan cook-ing. His auteur take on this spiciest of Chinese regional cui-sines is not for the faint-of-heart, with five-alarm dishes, like “mouth-watering” chicken and Kung Pao pastrami. Recently Bowien launched a New York branch of the restaurant that may be even more popular than the San Francisco original.

MISSION CHINESE FOOD2234 MISSION ST. // SAN FRANCISCO // 415.863.2800154 ORCHARD ST. // NEW YORK // 212.529.8800missionchinesefood.com

MAN ON FIRE Whether it’s in the

original, dive-y San Francisco

locale (far right) or the newer,

airier space in New York City,

Mission Chinese food is rife with

chilies—and attitude.

DANNY BOWIEN

PHOTOGRAPHY by SCOTT PETERSON


the crazy carnivores Until recently, the Los Angeles food scene at the high-end

was much more about preening than eating. The hottest res-taurants catered to starlets watching their fragile figures with

light salads, cold soups and poached salmon entrées with sauce on the side. Tandem-chef team Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo

(they met in culinary school in Ft. Lauderdale) snubbed the status quo when they opened up

Animal in 2008. The restaurant, serving glut-tonous “dude food” with a focus on off-cuts

of meat, became an overnight sensation nonetheless. Angelenos, who’d appar-

ently had just about enough of watching their waistlines, piled into the casual venue

(with barely a sign on the door), passing around crispy “buffalo style” pig’s tails,

veal brains with vadouvan curry and big lobes of foie gras in a Hawaiian-style Loco Moco with quail egg and Spam (before fattened duck liver was

banned in the state). The chefs even slipped bacon into des-sert. Son of a Gun, their second venture together, opened just

up the street from their first spot at the start of the year. It features a gut-busting take on all things from the sea, includ-

ing alligator schnitzel and shrimp toast with sriracha mayo. The slightly more decked-out new venue, with kitschy clam-

shack décor, has been packed since opening night.

ANIMAL435 N. FAIRFAX AVE. // LOS ANGELES // 323.782.9225

animalrestaurant.com

SON OF A GUN8370 W. 3RD ST. // LOS ANGELES // 323.782.9033

sonofagunrestaurant.com

STAR-STUDDED The menu at Animal, left, changes nightly. But dishes such as beef heart, above, rabbit spring rolls, left, and veal brains remain favorites with the local clientele.

VINNY DOTOLO & JON SHOOK

PHOTOGRAPHY by STEVE ANDERSON

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO SHOPPING, DINING AND DRINKING IN SAN FRANCISCOBy Gail Goldberg / Photography by Brown Cannon III

the bayside way

Universally considered one of the greatest cities on the globe, San Francisco has an

irresistible and international allure. So what’s the best way to enjoy her world-famous splendor? With the wide eyes of a visitor and the leading

hand of a knowledgeable local...

( ahem, that would be me )

SF


HAYES VALLEY

Meet my hands-down favorite place to score giddy-inducing fashions. Think of this neighbor-hood, anchored by Hayes Street, as the SoHo of San Francisco, except teensier and without a recogniz-able chain store in sight. In other words, welcome to the coolest cluster of inde-pendent boutiques in town. You’ll find hip and sophis-ticated women’s, men’s and children’s clothing, fabulous footwear, and funky house-wares and home furnishings all within five square blocks. The best way to tackle it? Just wander—and lust.

GIMME SHOESFor almost 20 years, shoe addicts have deified it for its cutting-edge men’s and women’s footwear and hard-to-find brands (hello, Fiorentini+Baker). A sec-ond outpost, down the street, joined the origi-nal a couple of years ago for double the pleasure. ———416 (ORIGINAL) AND 381 HAYES STREET 415.864.0691

RAND + STATLERThis airy and still-newish boutique woos both genders with an ultra-chic bounty of coveted clothing from the likes of Comme des Garcons, Acne and Alexander Wang. Excellent customer service and amazing accessories by local artists add to its allure. ———425 HAYES STREET 415.634.0881

RAG (RESIDENTS APPAREL GALLERY)A hipster favorite—it’s all about promoting and sell-ing new, emerging and eco-friendly local designers. The perfect spot to pur-chase gifts, edgy tees with San Francisco graphics, fun jewelry and decidedly cool baby and kids clothes. ———LOCATED JUST OFF HAYES AT 541 OCTAVIA STREET 415.621.7718

MINIMALThe MO of this happy little shop: sleek and simple with a Scandinavian twist. Cool kitchen gadgets, jewelry, home accesso-ries and unique gifts are stylishly displayed along with products by Marime-kko, Design House Stock-holm and Alvar Alto. ———364 HAYES STREET 415.400.5572

WELCOME STRANGERThe whimsical windows of this cavernous menswear spot will demand that you enter, while the Ameri-cana vintage vibe and fresh mix of denim, sportswear and workwear are sure to keep you interested. Styles run the gamut from full-on fab Zig-Zag shoes for $20 to investment pieces by Rag & Bone and Paul Smith. Crazy-cool curios with a manly-man slant add to the fashion fun. ———460 GOUGH STREET 415.864.2079

I cannot remember the last time I roamed Fisherman’s Wharf, climbed to the top of Coit Tower or said hello to the chatty sea lions relaxing at Pier 39. However, I have been gleefully shopping, eating and cocktailing my way around town—from South of Market to Pacific Heights and the Mission District—for the better part of 17 years. ¶ Ding, ding, ding! Precisely why you should take my proverbial hand and let me steer you toward some of my favorite neighborhood haunts, buzzy dining spots, amazing boutiques and cool cocktail bars not plastered in every guidebook known to man. ¶ What of all those world-famous icons, museums and attractions? Absolutely worthy of their acclaim—and a visit. But you don’t need me to tell you that. The ultimate goal of this insider’s tour to the City by the Bay is to help you experience the mind-blowing hills, stunning Victorians and mouthwatering chocolate through the eyes of a still-smitten local—New Yorker by birth, San Franciscan by choice.

REFUEL AT THESE HOTSPOTS BEFORE

YOU GET BACK TO THE MAIN COURSE—

SHOPPING!

Get Your Shop onSAN FRANCISCO OFTEN GETS A BAD RAP FOR ITS FASHION SENSE. BUT ONE THING IS CERTAIN: IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO IMPEACH THE CITY’S SHOPPING SCENE—ONE I HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFULLY MINING OVER THE YEARS. INDEED, THE CITY IS A BUYER’S PARADISE, STUFFED WITH AN ECLECTIC MIX OF BOUTIQUES AND DEPARTMENT STORES. HERE’S AN INTRODUCTION TO SOME OF MY FAVORITE LOCAL SHOPS IN NEIGHBORHOODS YOU MAY NOT KNOW.

CURE YOURSHOPPINGMUNCHIES

I confess…


JACKSON SQUARE

How about a side of Bar-bary Coast history with your shopping? Situated in the shadow of the Transamerica Pyramid (north and west of the Financial District), this little-known enclave has an Old World feel with its beautiful brick and ornate cast-iron buildings dating back to the Gold Rush days. It’s home to the city’s finest arts and antique dealers, as well as modern design stores and two of the best wom-en’s boutiques in the city.

Meandering these historic blocks is a wonderful way to spend a couple of only-in-San Francisco hours. Grab a bite at Bix—a San Francisco institution—or the more casual but equally historic Old Ship Saloon. Prefer a champagne break? Pull up a couch at The Bubble Lounge.

MONTGOMERY GALLERYWhether you’re in the mar-ket for a new masterpiece or just window-shopping, take a whirl through this almost-30-year-old gal-lery, one of the city’s finest, specializing in 19th- and 20th-century European and American paintings with a focus on California artists. ———406 JACKSON STREET 415.788.8300

CARROTS Ladies, prepare for 4,000 square feet of uber-chic fashions in a landmark building, formerly occu-pied by Ernie’s restaurant, featured in Alfred Hitch-cock’s Vertigo. What’s being served up nowadays is a meticulously edited menu of sophisticated designer cloth-ing. Name-dropping just a bit to whet your appetite… Helmut Lang, Rick Owens, Viktor & Rolf… Throw in gorgeous accessories and footwear? Swoon-worthy is an understatement. ———843 MONTGOMERY STREET 415.834.9040

LA BOUTIQUE L’ART ET LA MODEA relative newcomer, this insouciant boutique con-tinues to make a positive impression on local stylis-tas who flock to the bright bi-level space for innova-tive European designer collections. Another plus: It’s also part contempo-rary art gallery and event space. Ooh la la! ———414 JACKSON STREET 415.693.9950

UNION SQUARE

Even though the best way to sop up the local flavor is to hit the boutiques and neighborhoods, I’d be remiss if I didn’t give Union Square a proper nod. It is, after all, the city’s central shop-ping hub overflowing with department stores (Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Mar-cus, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys New York and Nord-strom) and designer store-fronts (Prada, Gucci, Her-mès, Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton and just-opened Mulberry). Also noteworthy: Maiden Lane, just off the square (between Geary and Post Streets from Stockton to Kearny Streets), a cobble-stone, pedestrian-only street clustered with more luxury stores (Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Diptyque and Tory Burch) and outdoor cafes. Local highlights include Manika Jewelry, Glory Chen and Gump’s, the 150-year-old legendary retailer that sells artful objects, jewelry and home décor. (Just look for the red awnings.)

BLUE BOTTLE A new cult of java lovers can’t get enough of this local, organic coffee. Look for the kiosk (and the queue). 3 1 5 linden street5 1 0.6 5 3 .3 3 9 4

LA BOULANGE This French cafe is the perfect stop for an au lait and chocolate croissant, salad Nicoise or croque monsieur.500 hayes street41 5.863.3 3 7 6

MIETTE CONFISERIE Kids of all ages will eagerly get their sweet fix on here. Scrumptious candies by the pound, cupcakes and macaroons will have you sufficiently sugar-rushed in no time. 449 Octavia street 41 5.62 6.62 2 1

GOLDEN FINDSStores such as Gimme Shoes (top left) and Rand + Statler (bottom right) showcase San Francisco’s easygoing West Coast style.previous spread Blue Bottle coffee (top left, lower right) enjoys cult-like status in the city. The tasting menus at Commonwealth (lower left) are legendary.

GE

TT

Y IM

AG

ES


BUZZIEST NEWCOMER

CENTRAL KITCHEN

Chef Thomas McNaughton brings us upscale Cali cui-sine married perfectly with a desirable location in the center of culinary hipster-dom—the Mission District’s 20th Street corridor. The bright space has a rustic-urban feel with equal parts indoor and outdoor dining. Refined yet simple dishes with an emphasis on local ingredients will have you at first bite. Two to try: ham, greens, herbs, marinated bread and white cheddar; and squid, avocado, celery and pine nut mousse. More adventurous types should go for the daily tasting menu—you don’t know what you’ll get until it’s served. ———782 FLORIDA STREET AT 20TH STREET 415.826.7004

EAVESDROPPING ON THE TECHIE ELITE

THE CREAMERY

Location, location, location. That and a mean latte have made this coffeeshop-cum-bistro the go-to hangout for venture capitalists, techie bloggers and tech rockstars themselves. It all makes sense when you consider that the eatery sits across from the Caltrain station (the commuter hub between the city and Silicon Valley), nearby AT&T Park and a slew of startups. The deal-making all goes down in a hip indus-trial space (carved from the refrigerated room of a one-time creamery) with both indoor and outdoor seat-ing. Best bets on the menu: breakfast sandwiches, salads and savory crepes. Also find a selection of beer and wine. ———685 4TH STREET AT TOWNSEND STREET 415.896.1446

MEALS ON WHEELS

SOMA STREAT FOOD PARK

All hail the city’s first per-manent food truck pod. Finally, we truckie devotees can stop stalking and obses-sively checking Twitter to find out what abandoned space or hidden alley is the location du jour for scrump-tious falafels, tamales, pies or po’ boys. The park is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, and you’ll find a rotating group of six to 10 trucks at any given time. (Curry Up Now is my fave.) No doubt, this is food truck dining deluxe—there’s covered seating, free WiFi and on-site park-ing, regular movie night screenings for clarity and a soon-to-open beer garden. ———428 11TH STREET AT DIVISION STREET

MUY CALIENTE MEXICAN

EL METATE

Finding a tasty burrito in San Francisco, especially in the city’s Latin-meets-hipster Mission hood, isn’t exactly like discovering the Holy Grail. But if dining among locals at an authen-tic, colorful and comfort-able taqueria that delivers consistently fresh and fla-vorful food sounds appeal-ing, this one’s for you. You can’t go wrong with anything on the extensive menu—enchiladas are universally lauded, but I say fish tacos all the way. And make sure to order one of the signa-ture (yummy) agua frescas.———2406 BRYANT STREET AT 22ND STREET 415.641.7209

SAN FRANCISCO STALWART

THE SLANTED DOOR

I have a special place in my heart for Charles Phan’s Vietnamese restaurant, which opened the same year I moved to the city. There is one reason I have remained loyal over the years as it moved locations and welcomed siblings and accolades galore—the food has never failed me. Now, long settled in its stunning Ferry Building location, with breathtaking views of the Bay and its namesake bridge, it has solidified itself as one of San Francisco’s culinary gems. What to order? Dai-kon rice cakes, shaking beef and cellophane noodles with Dungeness crab. And that’s just for starters. ———1 FERRY BUILDING 415.861.8032

Around the CitY in 5 plAteSSAN FRANCISCO IS A VERITABLE FOODIE HEAVEN WITH AN INNOVATIVE AND ETHNICALLY DIVERSE RESTAURANT SCENE, AN EXCESS OF SUPERSTAR CHEFS AND A GASTRONOMIC REPUTATION THAT RIVALS THE BEST IN THE WORLD. THE PERFECT WAY TO GET A TASTE? EAT LIKE A LOCAL AND CHOMP YOUR WAY THROUGH THE CITY FROM TACO TRUCK TO TONY HOTSPOT, ONE PALATE-PLEASING MEAL AT A TIME.

TAKE TWOThe Slanted Door (top) has endured

through various moves, offering

elegant Vietnamese cuisine to the crowds that flock to the Ferry

Building. For a more casual Vietnamese

dining experience, try a signature banh mi

at Bun Mee (bottom).


A NUGGET OF HISTORY Right around the same time those 13 colonies were declaring their inde-pendence, Spanish settlers were building a church near a beautiful bay, 3,000 miles away. That house of worship was dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, nicknamed San Francisco. Fast-forward 75 years or so and the Gold Rush was on, Levi Strauss was selling his first jeans to the miners and California became the 31st state (1850). The 20th century began with a tragedy: the 1906 earthquake and fire that destroyed 80 percent of the city. But the tide had turned by 1915, when a newly reconstructed and grander metropolis debuted at the Panama-Pacific International Expo-sition. And the rest, as they say is….

LAY OF THE LANDSan Francisco proper consists of 40-plus diverse and distinct neigh-borhoods, plus an ever-evolving crop of trendy, new micro-hoods. Daunting for visitors? Perhaps. But the good news is that many of the must-explore neighbor-hoods are clustered together and easily accessible by car, taxi and public transportation (bus, cable car, streetcar and underground). Most areas are walkable, but hills of varying steepness will greet you at some point during your travels. Here are your options: Inhale and take it one block at a time; find an alternate route to your destina-tion (there usually is one); or hop back in your car (or hail/call a cab).

WHEN TO GOThe best time to visit is between September and November, when Northern California is at its warmest and sunniest. Of course, every time of year has its own appeal. The holiday season through February is the least touristy, most rainy and best for fog watching (you have to see it to believe it). Spring is lovely and dry although still quite cool. Summer is the busiest time with visitors, so be sure to make reservations for must-do, -eats and -sees well in advance of your trip. Warm layers are another must. That famous quote about the coldest winter being a San Francisco summer is so brilliant because it’s true.

san francisco 101

97


BOURBON AND BRANCH

Slip on your fedora and take a trip back in time to Prohi-bition days at this stunning speakeasy. An incognito entrance, passwords and a revolving bookcase are all part of the fun… and kitsch. Bourbon and Branch is known for its curated offer-ing of hand-selected spirits and an extensive menu of cocktails, from old-school classics to market-fresh varieties made with pro-duce from the morning run at local farmers’ markets. Knowledgeable slingers are always game for creating personalized libations (order a cosmopolitan at your own peril). Reservations and taxis are highly recom-mended; food is not served. ———501 JONES STREET (BETWEEN O’FARRELL AND GEARY STREETS) 415.346.1735

LION PUB

It’s always a roaring good time at this unmarked lounge, beloved by pretty much all who know about it. You’ll find a chill scene complemented by a cozy fireplace, dim lighting and non-blaring dance music; things tend to get more hop-ping as the night progresses. But the ambience wouldn’t mean much, of course, with-out the signature libations (ahh! those cocktails) made with fresh-squeezed juices (orange, grapefruit, canta-loupe, strawberry, mango and watermelon). Mojitos, margaritas and, my favorite, the fresh basil vodka gim-let are all simply dee-lish.———2062 DIVISADERO STREET (NEAR SACRAMENTO STREET) 415.567.6565

RICKHOUSE

Après work to late night, every hour is happy at this Financial District favor-ite. Lots of wood, exposed brick walls, a fireplace and vaulted ceilings decorated by 300 Kentucky-imported whiskey barrels add to the cozy-slash-hip ambience. Bourbon lovers, especially, will be in their element as it’s the bar’s raison d’être. Not a fan of the hooch? No worries. The massive menu is loaded with amazing local beers, superstar artisanal cocktails and boutique California wines. Like me, most regulars flock for the specialty punches, intended for four, served in oversized glass bowls. Cheers! ———246 KEARNY STREET (BETWEEN SUTTER STREET AND HARDIE PLACE) 415.398.2827

the CloCk StrikeS CoCktAil hourSAN FRANCISCO HAS LONG LOVED ITS COCKTAILS. TODAY, IT’S HOME TO AN EVER-BURGEONING SCENE WHERE COCKTAILS—FROM CLASSICS TO CUTTING-EDGE AND COMPLEX VARIETIES—ARE STEALING THE SPOTLIGHT. THIRSTY? MIX AND MINGLE AT THIS TRIO OF UTTERLY UNQUENCHABLE NIGHTSPOTS.

VIEW The Golden Gate Bridge from the top of Fillmore Street (at Vallejo Street)

CHOCOLATE Poco Dolce (2419 3rd Street at 22nd Street)

HIDDEN STAIRCASE Lyon Street Steps (Broadway to Green Street)

ARCHITECTURAL WONDER Palace of Fine Arts (3301 Lyon Street)

ZEN SPA SenSpa (1161 Gorgas Avenue in the Presidio)

MUSEUM De Young Museum (50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park)

SLICE OF NEW YORK Arinell Pizza (509 Valencia Street at 16th Street)

LIVE MUSIC VENUE The Fillmore (1475 Fillmore Street at Geary Street)

TOURIST ATTRACTION Alcatraz

WALK/BIKE RIDE Crissy Field in the Marina/Presidio

PICNIC SPOT Alamo Square Park (Fulton to Hayes Street, Steiner to Scott Streets)

GAIL’SFAVORITES

MIX & MATCH Though most people visit

Rickhouse (above; opposite, top) for their signature

punches served in oversized glass bowls, the High-

Plains Drifter (opposite, top right) with rye whiskey

and sweet vermouth has received accolades.

Bourbon and Branch (opposite, below) revives

the speakeasy scene.

FOLLOW YOUR HEART

Visit us online atinspiratomagazine.com

and find more of San Francisco’s

hidden gems.

KS

ANY DAY NOW, you’ll feel it—perhaps as

you sip an autumn cocktail al fresco. Faint at first, almost imperceptible, a breeze will

catch the air and you’ll detect the slightest, fleeting chill of

winter whispering its approach. If your stomach sinks and you

wish away the coming cold, turn to page 78 and dream of sunnier climes. But if your mind drifts to

snow-capped peaks, stashes of powder and a crackling

fire, then you’re ready for ski season. Planning the perfect ski vacation means matching

the destination to the journey. Is this a family getaway, geared

more to the s’mores than the slopes? Or is it the annual

guys' trip, skiing first chair to last going big before going

home? Either way, you want to be certain that the mountain

you choose is compatible with your crew. Here, we profile three distinct resorts that

will answer all calls.

WINTER ESCAPES CUSTOM-FIT FOR YOU & YOURS

B Y D E B O R A H M A R K S W I L L I A M S

102

Stepping off the Whistler Village Gondola on a clear

day feels a little like flying over Manhattan’s sprawling constellation of skyscrapers for the first time. The sight is overwhelming.

Jagged, rock-peppered peaks and meringue-like snowcaps spread out in every direction. Immediately above you, Whistler Mountain scratches the clouds. Grande Finale, the black-diamond centerline that slices the peak in half,

draws your eye from the treeless summit down to the belt of densely packed pines that wrap the mountain below. Nineteen lifts climb every aspect of the peak, and more than 100 trails spill from its terminus. When breath returns to your lungs, you realize just how big Whistler is. And Whistler is only half the story.

Turn around and you’ll see Blackcomb Mountain with 17 more lifts and 100 more trails. Together, Whistler and Blackcomb comprise the

largest ski area in North America with more than 8,000 skiable acres.

With that much terrain, Whistler Blackcomb might be the only ski resort in the western hemisphere whose claim to have something for everyone is truly valid. Between the two mountains, experts could spend an entire week doing nothing but hiking and skiing high-alpine, treeless steeps and extreme terrain. Intermediates can explore all varieties of blue and black trails—from quad-crushing mogul fields

FIVE WORDS OR LESSOutsized stature, status and personality

AGEWhistler, 46 (opened in 1966); Blackcomb, 32 (opened in 1980)

HEIGHT 5,280 vertical feet

SELF-CONCEPT Inspiring, glamorous without glitz and abundantly friendly

BEST FEATUREPeak2Peak Gondola that connects Whistler and Blackcomb peaks and has the longest unsupported span of any cable-based transport in the world

BIGGEST MISCONCEPTIONIt's remote/hard to get to

LOOKING FORVisitors who count great skiing, delicious food and lively nightlife as top priorities

to sweeping boulevards purpose-built for high-speed GS turns. Best of all, beginners and kids aren’t relegated to a small pocket of trails at the base. Gentle green roads and wide avenues traverse the lower half of both mountains.

The resort's off-hill offerings are as equally abundant as the slopes. The modern, inviting base villages feature some of the best shopping and dining in skidom. The nightlife—which starts with après at the Giribaldi Lift Company or Merlins Bar & Grill and rolls into five-course dinners followed by wee-hours dancing—is unmatched in North America. A week in Whistler is a party—albeit a sophisticated one—that doesn’t stop.

WHISTLER BLACKCOMB BRITISH COLUMBIA

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WHEN BREATH RETURNS TO YOUR LUNGS, YOU REALIZE JUST HOW BIG WHISTLER IS. AND WHISTLER IS ONLY HALF THE STORY.

TAKE IT TO THE. EXTREME. Trying to get the full Whistler Blackcomb experience without hiring a guide is a fool’s errand. For all the terrain that you can see, there’s twice as much that you can’t. Extremely Canadian, one of the industry’s first independent ski schools, runs steep skiing clinics and tours throughout the world

but calls Whistler Blackcomb home. Among its impressive roster of guides are former pro athletes and ski film stars who get you up-close and personal with the resort’s two peaks. They’ll help you find the hidden nooks and crannies that only longtime locals know about.

WATCH THE WEATHER. The resort’s proximity to the Pacific and the sheer size of the Coast Mountains lead to some strange weather patterns and inversions. It’s not unusual to experience gale-force winds on the peaks, sunny skies in the middle of the mountain and rain or fog at the base.

ZIP IT. Go ahead; use the weather as an excuse to give your legs a break. Whistler’s Ziptrek Ecotour is a full- or half-day adventure perfect for older kids and thrill-seeking adults. On the way up the mountain, you’ll learn about the Coast Range’s unique temperate rain forest ecosystem. Then you’ll strap in and whiz back and forth across Fitzsimmons Creek on a series of ziplines, including one of the longest and highest in North America.

GET TO THE CHOPPER. Hands down, the pinnacle experience for any skier is heliskiing, and British Columbia is the place to do it. The relatively stable snowpack and an abundance of heli operations in southwest B.C. make for an easy day-trip adventure that even strong intermediates can experience. Coast Range Heliskiing, which operates out of Pemberton, will pick you up at your hotel, equip you with safety gear and an experienced guide and then drop you high on a knife-edged ridge with thousands of untracked vertical feet at your ski tips.

LOOSEN THE BELT. The culinary scene in Whistler Blackcomb rivals those of most major cosmopolitan cities. Dinner at the Bearfoot Bistro is more than a meal; it’s an experience that starts with a tour of the enormous wine cellar, where you can try your hand at champagne sabering. Between courses of decadent handcrafted gourmet fare, step into the vodka ice room, where you can taste spirits from around B.C. and the globe. The night ends with ice cream prepared tableside.

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The very roots of American skiing cling to the soil beneath

Stowe’s Mt. Mansfield. That’s where, in the 1930s, FDR’s Civilian Conversation Corps cut some of North America’s first ski trails in what became a symbiosis, of sorts. The New Deal propelled the development of the country’s first ski areas; in turn, a proud American brand of the greatest winter pastime was born in New England and helped to pull this nation out of the Great Depression. Today, resorts like Whistler and Jackson attract the most committed, dyed-in-the-wool skiers to whom little but sliding on snow matters. But it’s places like Stowe that made them that way.

Gaze up at the Front Four, double-black-diamond trails that spill from Mans-field’s nose and you begin to

appreciate Stowe’s legacy. The runs are narrow and steep relics of an era when every trail was cut by hand. Until a few years ago, most of Stowe’s slopes were at the mercy of often-fickle Mother Nature, which meant that learning to ski here meant learning to ski in the toughest condi-tions a skier can imagine.

Surrounded by working farms and anchored by the 200-year-old bucolic town of Stowe—its clapboard-storefront Main Street and rickety covered bridges movie-set perfect—Stowe is the quintessential family ski getaway. The dining scene covers the spectrum from simple to gourmet. Locally owned boutiques and galler-ies satisfy even Manhattan- bred shoppers. The resort’s Mt. Mansfield to the south and beginner-friendly Spruce Peak to the north

serve everyone from begin-ner to expert, and a midday rendezvous is easy thanks to the Over Easy gondola that connects the two base areas.

Ask anyone who cut their teeth, and maybe some other body parts, on these slopes, and they’ll wax nostalgic about old Stowe as they lament recent upgrades—a mas-sive snowmaking system, high-speed quads and gondolas, an enormous timber base lodge, sig-nificant slope grading and grooming, and real-estate sprawl—for stripping the resort’s rustic charm. But the truth is, those improve-ments have returned Stowe to its position at the top of America’s roster of must-visit ski resorts, espe-cially for anyone curious to know skiing the way it used to be while still enjoy-ing modern comforts.

STOWE MOUNTAIN RESORT VERMONT

FAMILY ADVENTUREFIVE WORDS OR LESSSlice of American skiing history

NICKNAMESki Capital of the East

AGE79

HEIGHT 2,160 vertical feet

SELF-CONCEPT Classic old soul blending vintage style with modern sensibilities

BEST FEATURE The Front Four

BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION It’s old-fashioned. With new high-speed quad, lodge, spa and great base amenities all updated in the last couple of years, Stowe now offers some of the best slopeside ambience on the East Coast.

LOOKING FOR Nostalgic types and aspiring experts who aren’t afraid of a little adverse weather

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THERE'S NO TIME LIKE STOWE TIME!

ONE FOUR ALL.Expert skiers can’t officially check Stowe off their list until they’ve skied The Front Four, preferably all in succession. National, Goat, Liftline and Starr demand a level of proficiency and pluck you cannot acquire on the machine-manicured boulevards out west. Ski them all to earn your Stowe stripes, recognized around the world… even in Jackson Hole.

SUGAR HIGH.Ever wonder what happened after Maria, the Captain and the Von Trapp brood climbed over the Austrian Alps? They settled in Stowe and opened the Trapp Family Lodge. Today, guests of the lodge and visitors can take part in a true Vermont tradition—maple sugaring. In the winter months, you can

visit—by cross-country skis or snowshoes, on foot or horse-drawn sleigh—the original Trapp family sugar shack to see how maple syrup is made, taste samples, and take home your own bottle.

GET BACK.The very first ski trail cut on Mt. Mansfield was the Bruce Trail, which dates back to 1933. Although it’s not technically part of Stowe Mountain Resort, it remains a favorite sidecountry line that is easily accessed off the Toll Road trail. But the best part is that

it descends to The Matterhorn restaurant and bar, Stowe’s best spot for après beers and—believe it or not—sushi.

I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM. No trip into or out of Stowe—or both—is complete without a stop at the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory in nearby Waterbury. Thirty-minute tours run daily every 30 minutes and give guests a peek at the production floor and a free taste of the flavor of the day. Before you leave, make sure to stroll through the Flavor Graveyard to pay your respects to the likes of From Russia With Buzz and The Full VerMonty.

IN TURN, A PROUD AMERICAN BRAND OF THE GREATEST WINTER PASTIME WAS BORN IN NEW ENGLAND AND HELPED PULL THIS NATION OUT OF THE GREAT DEPRESSION.


You’d think Wyoming—sandwiched as it is

between Colorado, Utah, Montana and Idaho, and spanned by sky-scratching Rocky Mountains—would be chock full of ski resorts. Nope. Not counting a handful of tiny, municipal hills, the state has exactly one destination resort. Given that, you might assume it’s crowded and free enough of competition to neglect things such as customer service and luxury amenities. Wrong again.

Jackson averages fewer than 1,800 skiers a day, and they disperse quickly over 2,500 acres thanks to an impressive network of lifts. That’s fewer than two skiers per acre, and that’s only the in-bounds terrain.

In 2000, Jackson was one of the first resorts in the U.S. to institute an open-gate policy, giving skiers lift-served access to extreme terrain beyond the boundary ropes. That’s where you’ll usually find the locals—and those who aspire to be locals. Considered a pioneer in

the sidecountry move-ment (now the fastest-growing segment of the ski industry) and the mecca of extreme skiing, Jackson is home to few less-than-phenomenal athletes. Most locals ski only the resort after big storms. Once the inbounds powder is skied off, they head into the side- and backcountry.

What does that mean for visitors? You shouldn’t sleep in, stop for lunch or get in anyone’s way on a powder day. Locals don’t suffer dawdlers. Whether to visit or to live, you come to Jackson because pushing the lim-its tops your to-do list.

That’s not to say Jackson can’t be relaxing. Inti-mate and easy-to-navigate Teton Village, at the base of the ski mountain, has gone a long way to soften Jackson’s hard edges and counterbalance the fre-netic pace of its ski hill. World-class spas, fine dining and a handful of shops and boutiques offer guests a much-needed breather, but the main attraction in Jackson will always be the skiing.

JACKSON HOLE WYOMING

EXTREME SKIING

FIVE WORDS OR LESSSerious mountain for serious skiers

AGE47 (opened in 1965)

HEIGHT 4,139 feet

BUILD Steep, craggy cliff- and tree-rattled granite peaks

SELF-CONCEPT Impassioned anddemanding, confidentand encouraging

BEST FEATUREThe iconic tram. The original, which had a capacity of 50, was replaced in 2008 with one twice the size that moves twice as fast. It is the beating heart of the mountain and the fastest way to reach the terrain Jackson is known for.

BIGGEST MISCONCEPTIONThe entire mountain is expert-only. Fully half the terrain is classified as begin-ner or intermediate.

LOOKING FORSkiers and outdoor enthusiasts who want to push their limits

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BLACK DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

BE IN LINE AT 7 A.M.. If fresh snow fell last night, you’re already late. Book it to Jackson’s iconic tram, “the red heli,” and get in line. “First box” is at 9 and it’s 12 minutes to the summit. One hundred meters from the top, look down and left for a glimpse of Corbet’s Couloir, widely regarded as the most difficult marked ski trail in North America. HINT: Ski the mountain from looker’s left to right—the terrain gets gentler as you go. Your legs will thank you.

FEEL THE BURN.Jackson’s base sits lower than most Rocky Mountain resorts’ at 6,300 feet, and its 10,450-foot summit isn’t particularly high. But the 4,139-foot vertical drop is impressive, unparalleled in the U.S., and explains why the pace on the mountain is so quick. No visit to Jackson is complete without a few leg-busting runs

on the legendary Hobacks, a group of four relentless fall-line steeps accessible from the Tram or the Sublet Quad.

FOLLOW THE LEADER.Jackson’s not the best place to strike out on your own the first time you visit. Luckily, some of the greatest skiers in the world don’t just live and ski here; they guide and teach guests. Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe leads private mountain tours for intermediate and advanced skiers. And if you’re ready for something hairier, sign up for a guided backcountry tour or multi-day camp, where world-class ski-mountaineers will teach you how to safely navigate Jackson’s off-piste terrain beyond the resort boundary.

UNWIND.The Chill Spa, on the top floor of the ultra modern Terra Hotel, and the Four Seasons

Spa—ranked number one in the U.S. by Travel + Leisure—offer full menus of body and facial treatments with stunning views of the slopes. Soak sore muscles in their infinity pools and rooftop hot tubs, and—if you’re feeling like a local—squeeze in a second workout in their state-of-the-art gyms.

INDULGE.Reward yourself for a day’s hard work with dinner at Jackson’s premier award-winning restaurant, Couloir, atop the Bridger Gondola. Chef Wes Hamilton sources sustainable, regional ingredients for his farm-to-table menu that changes with the seasons but includes dishes like pan-roasted Snake River sturgeon and Idaho potato-wild mushroom perogies. Eat up. After the day you had—and the one that awaits tomorrow—you’re going to need it.

YOU SHOULDN’T SLEEP IN, STOP FOR LUNCH OR GET IN ANYONE’S WAY ON A POWDER DAY. LOCALS DON’TSUFFER DAWDLERS.


ITTING ON A SKI chairlift with friends in Vail, Bill Flagg decided

he would try something new in his travel planning: He used his phone to pull up Inspirato, and before he got off the lift at the top of the mountain he was booked for two nights in a place that could accommodate him and his buddies. In a perfect twist, it was right by the chairlifts.

Before that, Mr. Flagg, an entrepreneur in Boulder, Colorado, was spending a great deal of time in search mode when it

came to planning travel with his wife and their two young children—or even an occasional get-together with the guys.

“I would do a combination of VRBO, travel agents and my own research,” he says. “Each one had its advantages and drawbacks.”

For example, his family likes to go to Telluride for a couple of weeks each year. “We would go through this process of looking through VRBO for the best place to stay. We went through a lot of places that were either run-down or not

well located,” he says. “Checking availability is another challenge with VRBO. I spent a full week trying to find a place, and it was an adventure wondering what we were going to get when we arrived.”

And therein lies the conundrum for travelers today: too many choices and often not enough information, whether using a travel agent, fractional ownership, a smattering of websites or some other service.

“I was spending way too much time with travel agents, and it drove me crazy,” says Mr. Flagg.

SINPSIRATO MEMBERS

APPRECIATE A NEWFOUND

LEVEL OF LUXURY,

SERVICE AND SMILES

BY MINDY SINK

LIFESTYLE PHOTOGRAPHY by JACK AFFLECK, VAIL RESORTS

TIME WELL SAVED The solution for Mr. Flagg and a

growing number of affluent people is to become a member with Inspirato, which includes access to a Personal Vacation Advisor and a Destination Concierge in addition to many other services.

“With Inspirato there is an advocate for you ahead of your vacation,” says Ira Bahr, chief marketing officer for Inspirato. “For time-constrained people, they don’t have to dive into a tonnage of information available on the Internet. They can call a trusted resource.”

In what Mr. Bahr describes as “a misalignment between

expectations and outcomes,” there can be unpredictability in these more traditional travel-making arrangements. “There might be a musty odor to a room or the place they rented might not be as close to an amenity as they wanted it to be,” he says. “All of these variables go into their happiness. With Inspirato, they never have an outcome different from their expectations.”

Samuel Gonzalez, a business owner in Miami, Florida, was in the habit of using the travel services offered through his credit card company, along with researching things on his own.

“It’s a generic type of travel

agency,” he explained. “I am one out of millions there, just another number.”

Mr. Gonzalez enjoyed a trip to the Dominican Republic with family and friends this year after he became a member of Inspirato. “My daughter was turning 21,” he said of the large family event they held on their vacation. “Two

weeks prior to departure I was contacted by the concierge asking if we wanted cooks and maids in the house, if we wanted to go on fishing excursions, which restaurants we would like to go to, and everything was done. I didn’t have to call anyone. It makes travel seamless.”

This is quite a difference from his days of calling the travel agent, then being referred to Open Table to make his own dinner reservations. Since joining Inspirato, Mr. Gonzalez has taken trips to Los Cabos, Anguilla and Las Vegas. “Everything is done from arrival to departure,” he says. “A typical travel agent is limited in what they can do.”

PERSONAL SPACE Ken and Jenny Silverman of

Northbrook, Illinois, joined Inspirato in 2012, but already it is changing how they contemplate family trips for them and their three children.

“We would spend countless hours online doing all of the details,” says Mrs. Silverman. The couple preferred to use points for their travel, often

with Marriott, and then pay whatever balance remained. The biggest problem they had was negotiating connected rooms for their family.

“It’s the best decision for us to stay in a house as a family,” says Mr. Silverman. “Between the oldest and the youngest of our children, everybody needs their own space. Our teenager needs his own room because he stays up later.” Now they are clear that their family needs a four-bedroom house for their vacations and simply review the layout of a residence online.

Moving from their “do-it-yourself” method of travel planning, the Silvermans truly appreciate the

little things such as not having to call hotels to verify there will be laundry facilities or arriving to a house with an already-stocked refrigerator. “We did two trips this summer with Inspirato—to Vail and Jackson Hole—and we did not come back complaining about anything,” gushes Mrs. Silverman.

Mr. Bahr is all too familiar with the

challenges of traveling with family. As a married father of two, Mr. Bahr has learned what does and does not work during vacations. “The main thing you give up when you travel to a luxury resort is space,” he says. “People who own a four- to five-thousand-square-foot home and then take their family to live in four to five hundred square feet on vacation will have implications on every aspect of their existence while at a destination. The Inspirato travel style allows you to maintain the level of luxury you are accustomed to when you’re at home.”

The upshot for many Inspirato members is that the ease of vacation planning allows even more travel.

“We spend a lot less time making calls to arrange things, and a lot more time enjoying the vacation,” says Mr. Flagg. “It’s opened up our perspective of being able to travel to more places.”


“THE INSPIRATO TRAVEL STYLE ALLOWS YOU TO MAINTAIN THE LEVEL OF LUXURY YOU ARE ACCUSTOMED

TO WHEN YOU’RE AT HOME.”

M E M B E R S H I PAdvantage Inspirato

180INSPIRATO MAGAZINE S WINTER 2013 ILLUSTRATION by VIN GANAPATHY

I gave the 5-year-old a good long glare when she com-plained that the TV

at our waterside man-sion was too small.

Oh, she was missing the big picture, all right.

Daddy hadn’t taken his wife and two daughters to some highway Sleep Cheap. He wouldn’t do that. As a travel writer for 20 years, Daddy’s been lucky enough to expe-rience the world. He remembers telling his grandfather about balloon rides over Napa, moonlit sailing across the Carib-bean and five-star dinners at Manhattan’s finest.

“Keep going like that, kid, you’re going to wind up with cham-pagne tastes,” his grandfather chided.

He was right. I revel in life’s finer

things: sumptuous dining, posh travel and staying in homes known more for their names than their addresses. That’s exact-ly how we ended up out here, at Far Away Point on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. I was writing a story about the splendid advantages of renting your own mansion and had brought the fam-ily along. It’s a tough job.

The picturesque Far Away Point could comfort-ably sleep dozens, had a seven-person guesthouse, a boathouse, a Steinway

piano room, a four-flight elevator, 100 acres with a half-mile of shoreline on the Miles River, a private beach, a historic grave-yard full of nearly two dozen dead millionaires...and that tiny little TV.

As I wandered a misty morning absorbing the beauty of it all, the heady taste of fresh mimosa on my lips, I thought about my grandfather. My cham-

pagne tastes were being slaked. I was being spoiled.

But, I wondered, do I want to spoil my daughters? Do you?

I mean, what if I take them to another man-sion next year and they complain, “Gee, Dad, the boathouse here’s a little cramped”?

I’m at an odd cross-roads, where I’m eager to spoil myself, yet I worry that doing so might dam-age my daughters. It’s a moral conundrum with which we all must wrestle. How do we splurge on our kids without spoil-ing them rotten?

So here’s what I decid-ed: I’m going to take every opportunity to show my loved ones the most

spectacular adventures this world has to offer.

I can’t predict the future, but it wouldn’t surprise me if, before the girls enter college, they ride ele-phants with a view of the Taj Mahal, toast marsh-mallows on the side of an active volcano and see the edges of Earth from rec-reational space vehicles.

I will give them the great-est experiences the imagi-nation can fathom. And I’ll be sure they appreciate every step along the way.

The aforementioned grandfather lived to be 98 years old. Raised in the Great Depression, he never had an opportunity for this kind of exotic fun, and he was wary of spend-ing money on that kind of frivolity. As time ravaged him with its indignities, he’d often lament, “Grow-ing old ain’t for sissies.”

Well, he was only half right that time.

Livin’ ain’t for sissies.This world’s tough. Our

children will learn, as we all do, it can be a mean old place. It’s our job to show them all the sparkle, to provide all the opportu-nities we can, to ensure they enjoy it and teach them to dance every time they hear the music.

I vow that Far Away Point won’t be the last mansion my daughters stay in. And I promise you this: The next one won’t have any TV at all.

CHAMPAGNE TASTESSplurging on your children (without spoiling them).

BY CHRIS RODELL

“I’LL GIVE THEM THE GREATEST EXPERIENCES THE IMAGINATION CAN FATHOM. AND I’LL BE SURE THEY

APPRECIATE EVERY STEP ALONG THE WAY.”

T H E GR E AT L I F E

INSPIRATO RESIDENCE NANTUCKET, MASSACHUSETTS

EXCEPTIONAL EXPERIENCES EXTRAORDINARY VALUEEXCEPTIONAL EXPERIENCES EXTRAORDINARY VALUE

INSPIRATO RESIDENCE NANTUCKET, MASSACHUSETTS

Inspirato is a private club that requires a nonrefundable Initiation Fee. Reservations vary in price by property and date, and are subject to availability. © 2012 Inspirato LLC. INSPIRATOInspirato is a private club that requires a nonrefundable Initiation Fee. Reservations vary in price by property and date, and are subject to availability. © 2012 Inspirato LLC. INSPIRATO® is owned and operated by Best of 52, LLC (doing business in California as California Best of 52, LLC), the sponsor of this advertisement. 1637 Wazee Street, Suite 400, Denver, Colorado 80202. Fla. Seller of Travel Reg. No. ST38403. Washington Seller of Travel Registration (doing business in California as California Best of 52, LLC), the sponsor of this advertisement. 1637 Wazee Street, Suite 400, Denver, Colorado 80202. Fla. Seller of Travel Reg. No. ST38403. Washington Seller of Travel Registration No. UBI 603086598. CST 2107465. Registration as a seller of travel in California does not constitute approval by the State of California. Best of 52, LLC is not a participant in the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund.No. UBI 603086598. CST 2107465. Registration as a seller of travel in California does not constitute approval by the State of California. Best of 52, LLC is not a participant in the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund.

C A L L 8 8 8 - 5 4 6 - 5 0 0 8 O R V I S I T I N S P I R A T O . C O M AND FIND OUT WHY WE WERE NAMED BY FORBES AS ONE OF AMERICA’S MOST PROMISING COMPANIES

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WELL TRAVELED

LIFE

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