ingredients for cosmetics
TRANSCRIPT
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www.mosselman.eu
Ingredients for Cosmetics
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+
Trading & Production
of
Oleochemicals
and
related products
Vegetable oils - animal fats
Fatty acids or
Fatty alcohols
Glycerol
Fatty esters or
Fatty alkanolamides and
Ethoxylates
Cosmetics
Detergency
Pharmacy, veterinary
Phytopharmacy
Food, feed
Textile, paper, building
Lubricants, solvents
Inks, coatings
etc...
Tradition in customer relation. Innovation in chemistry and customer service. An extra touch with the use of natural and renewable raw materials. Looking forward to meet perfomance and cost effectiveness with relation to changing technologies, stronger regulations and new market demands.
The Mosselman team.
Product ranges ____________
Oils & fats p. 3
Fatty acids p. 3
Thickening Agents p. 4
Solubilizers p.4 Moisturizers p.4
Metallic Stearates p.4
Emolients p.5 Emulsifiers p.5
Active Compounds p.6
& other Functionalities p.6
Non-ionic Surfactants p.7 Anionic Surfactants p.7
Miscellaneous p.7
NaTrue listed products p.8
Selected raw materials for cosme-tic emulsions and make-up p.9-11
Toll manufacturing p.12
Certifications p.12 ____________
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Lauric acid
Myristic acid
Palmitic acid
Stearic acid
12-Hydroxy stearic acid
Ricinoleic acid
Oleic acids
Isostearic acid
Behenic acid
Erucic acid
Coconut fatty acids
Coconut fatty acids—topped
carbon chain
C12
C14
C16
C18
C18-OH
C18:1-OH
C18:1
Iso-C18
C22
C22:1
C8-C18
C12-C18
FATTY ACIDS
FATTY ACIDS
FATTY ACIDS
Cod liver
Lanoline
Animal
Animal
Animal
oilsoilsoils
Petrolatum jelly white
Petrolatum jelly yellow
Silicon oil 100, 350, 1000
White paraffin oil
Heavy
medium
light
extra light
Mineral and
Mineral and
Mineral and
silicon oils
silicon oils
silicon oils
Argan
Avocado
Blueberry seed
Borage
Castor
Cocoa butter
Coconut
refined
fractionated
Hydrogenated
Cranberry seed
Evening primerose
Grapeseed
Hazelnut
Jojoba yellow
Macadamia
Olive
extra virgin
refined
Purcelin oil substitute
Rapeseed
Raspberry seed
Sesame
Shea Butter
Soybean
Sunflower
regular / high oleic
Sweet almond
Walnut
Wheat germ
Organic grades on request
Vegetable oils
Vegetable oils
Vegetable oils
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Castor Oil hydrogenated
Cetyl alcohol
Cetyl-stearyl alcohol 50/50
Cetyl-stearyl alcohol 30/70
Cetyl-stearyl alcohol 70/30
Castor Oil Hydrogenated
Stearyl alcohol
Beeswax white
Beeswax yellow
Candelilla wax
Carnauba wax prime yellow
Paraffin waxes
Stearyl stearate
Synthetic spermaceti
Triethanolamine (TEA) 85%, 99%
Thickening agents
Thickening agents
Thickening agents
Octyl dodecanol
Sorbitan mono-oleate 20 EO - Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan monolaurate 20 EO - Polysorbate 20
Glycerol mono-esters of coconut 7 EO - Ester ETO 7
Glycerol triacetate - triacetin
Glycerol tri-caprylate/caprate - MCT - Ester 610
Glycerol Carbonate
Glycerol Formal
EL 40 - Castor oil 40 EO
Solubilizers
Solubilizers
Solubilizers
Glycerin
Polyethylene glycol 200, 300, 400, 600, 1000, 4000, 6000 , 20 000
Propylene glycol
Sorbitol 70% NC
Moisturize
rsMoisturize
rsMoisturize
rs
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Cetostearyl octanoate
Decyl oleate
2-Ethylhexyl palmitate
2-Ethylhexyl stearate
Glycerol tricaprylate/caprate - MCT - Ester 610
Isopropyl myristate
Isopropyl palmitate
Isostearyl isostearate
2-Octyldodecyl myristate
Pentaerythritol tetra caprylate-caprate
Perhydrosqualene
Propylene glycol di-caprylate/caprate (Ester PR 91)
Purcelin oil
Emolients
Emolients
Emolients
Description HLB Physical state
Emulsifie
rsEmulsifie
rsEmulsifie
rs
Self emulsifying wax AO
Self emulsifying wax SX
solid
solid
Glycerol mono-esters of coconut 7 EO - Ester ETO 7
Glycerol monolaurate 40%, 90%
Glycerol monostearate 40%, 60%, 90%
Glycerol monostearate self-emulsifying
Polyglycerol monocaprylate
Sorbitan monolaurate
Sorbitan mono-oleate
Sorbitan monopalmitate
Sorbitan monostearate
Sorbitan sesquioleate
Sorbitan trioleate
Sorbitan tristearate
Sorbitan monolaurate 20 EO Polysorbate 20
Sorbitan mono-oleate 20 EO Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan monostearate 20 EO Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan triloleate 20 EO Polysorbate 85
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5.7
3 to 5
12.1
8
4.5
6.5
4.5
3.7
2
2
16.5
15
15
11
liquid
solid
solid
solid
liquid
liquid/paste
liquid
solid
solid
liquid
liquid
solid
liquid
liquid
paste
liquid
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Commercial
name
Description Functionality
Other functio
nalities
Other functio
nalities
Other functio
nalities
Betaine AAB
Betaine KBC
Alkylamidobetaine
Coco-betaine
Foambooster
Thickener and good skin com-
patibility
Amide KM 28
Amide KDO
Superamide KD
Superamide LD
Coconut monoethanolamide
Coconut diethanolamide
Coconut diethanolamide
Lauramide DEA
Superfatting agents
Base AN
Ethylene glycol distearate
Pearlescing agent
Commercial name Functionality Active ingredients
Active ingredients
Active ingredients
Allantoin Anti-irritating agent
Piroctone Olamine Anti-dandruff agent
Triethyl citrate Foam stabilizer
Jojoba
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Nourishing active
Alpha-tocopherol Free radical Scavenger
Plant extracts
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Carbomer 940
Gum Rosin
Triethanolamine 99% (TEA)
Soybean Lecithin liquid
Miscellaneous
Miscellaneous
Miscellaneous
Commercial name Description HLB (approx.) Non
Non
Non- --ionicionicionic
surfactants
surfactants
surfactants
EL 11
EL 33
EL 40
EL 200
Heliwet HCO 40
Heliwet HCO 60
Castor oil + 11 EO
Castor oil + 33 EO
Castor oil + 40 EO
Castor oil + 200 EO
Hydrogenated castor oil + 40 EO
Hydrogenated castor oil + 60 EO
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12
12.5
18
15
16
Lanolin + 30 EO
Lanolin + 75 EO
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17
Sulfonic acid
Heliwet EH 40
Heloxyl AST 50
LEG 325
LT 40
LES 28
LES 70
Liquid coconut soap
Liquid soap
Sodium stearate
Heloxyl AL 80
Paraffinsulfonate 60%
Sodium cumenesulfonate 40 %
Sodiumlaurylsulfate (powder / needles)
Sodium sulforicinoleate 50 %
Sodium xylene sulfonate 40 %
Alkylbenzenesulfonic acid
Ethylhexyl sulfate
Ethanolamine alkylbenzenesulfonate
Magnesium laurylethersulfate
Ethanolamine alkylsulfate
Sodium laurylethersulfate 28%
Sodium laurylethersulfate 70%
Liquid coconut soap 18%
Potatium oleate 15%
Neutralized fatty acid in powderform
DBSA Sodium salt
Anionic surfa
ctants
Anionic surfa
ctants
Anionic surfa
ctants
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NaTrue listed products International label for natural cosmetics
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside C14-22 Alcohols
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Palmitate
Decyl Oleate
Glycerin Glyceryl Caprylate
Glyceryl Dioleate Glyceryl Distearate
Glyceryl Laurate Glyceryl Linoleate
Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Ricinoleate
Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Stearate SE
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Hydrogenated Palm Oil Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Lauryl Alcohol
Myristic Acid
Myristyl Alcohol Octyldodecanol
Oleyl Alcohol Oleyl Erucate
Palm Kernel Acid Palmitic Acid
Palmityl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate Sodium Lauryl sulfate
Sodium Stearate Sorbitan Laurate
Sorbitan Oleate Sorbitan Palmitate
Sorbitan Stearate Sorbitol
Squalane Stearic Acid
Stearyl Alcohol Sulfated Castor Oil
Triethyl Citrate Undecylenic Acid
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Raw materials for cosmetic emulsions
and make-up
2-ethylhexyl palmitate and stearate Ethylhexyl palmitate and stearate are used in cosmetic formulations as a solvent, car-
rying agent, pigment wetting agent, fra-grance fixative and emollient. Its dry-slip
skin feel is similar to some silicone deriva-tives.
Argan oil Cosmetic grade argan oil is very rich in
vitamin E and good for skin, hair and nails. The cosmetic argan oil has anti-
oxidant properties that are essential in the fight against skin aging and wrin-kles. Cosmetic argan oil is ideal for sensi-
tive or allergic skin. It soothes the skin and redness
Avocado oil Has the same properties as the sweet al-
mond oil, but is also rich in unsaponifiable components which give the oil an extra activity. It is used in cosmetics where it is
valued for its regenerative and moisturiz-ing properties. The oil is particularly used
in day and night creams. Bees wax
Often used as a consistency agent in emulsions and more specific in make-up.
It is also used in cold creams. Borage oil
Rich in gamma linolenic acid (about 20%). This oil is able to regenerate the mem-
branes of the cells which give the elasticity to the skin.
Butyl and isobutyl stearate These are fatty acid esters soluble in alco-hol. They are used as a replacement of
mineral and vegetable oils in creams and lotions.
Carnauba wax This hard wax is especially used in make-
up formulations like lipsticks and mascara.
Castor oil cristal A vegetable oil that is soluble in alcohol.
The oil is often used in combination with waxes in lipsticks.
Cetyl alcohol Has light emulsifying properties and is
mostly used as a consistency agent in emulsions.
Cetyl palmitate This substitute of spermaceti is used as a
thickener in creams and gives very white dispersions.
Cocoa butter The smooth texture, sweet fragrance and
emollient property of cocoa butter make it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skin
care products, such as soaps and lotions. The moisturizing abilities of cocoa butter are frequently recommended for prevention
of stretch marks in pregnant women, treat-ment of chapped skin and lips, and as a
daily moisturizer to prevent dry, itchy skin. Coconut oil
Solid at room temperature, this vegetable oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and
softener.
Decyl oleate A semi-saturated ester of decyl alcohol and oleic acid used in skin care.
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Selected raw materials for cosmetic
emulsions and make-up
Ester 610 This saturated triglyceride is considered as fractionated coconut oil. It is a neutral oil
with most applications as mineral oil sub-stitute. Its odorless, colorless, tasteless,
stable properties make an ideal inert emollient. It will also improve the spread-ing and lipstick brightness.
Ester pr 91
An ester of propylene glycol and medium chain fatty acids. It is a good solubilizer
for actives. Evening primerose oil
Rich in gamma linolenic acid (about 10%), this oil enters into competition with borage
oil. Glycerin
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a skin-friendly humectant that attracts water to the skin
as well as a binding ingredient that occurs naturally in vegetable lipids.
Glycerol monostearate Used as a co-emulsifier in o/w emulsions
and as an emulsifier in w/o emulsions. It is also a consistency agent in cosmetic emulsions.
Isostearyl isostearate
This is an oily component with rich skin feel and film forming properties. Being non rancidable, it can be offered as a 100%
vegetable based mineral oil substitute.
Isopropyl myristate and palmitate These esters have a dry feeling and are combined with vegetable or mineral oils.
They are used where a good absorption through the skin is wanted.
Jojoba oil Also known as substitute for spermaceti,
this oil is a natural unsaturated long chain ester. It is to be considered as a liquid
wax. It penetrates very well into the skin and is used in numerous applications in
skin care and make-up.
Lanolin Lanolin and its many derivatives are used extensively in both the personal care (e.g.
In high value cosmetics, facial cosmetics, lip products etc) and health care sectors.
Lanolin is frequently used in protective ba-by skin treatment (and nursing mother) markets.
Lanolin can absorb up to 3 times its weight in water.
Mineral oils
Mineral oil is a common ingredient in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and cos-metics. It is a lightweight oil that is odor-
less and tasteless. It can be used on eye-lashes to prevent brittleness and breaking
and, in cold cream, is also used to remove cream make-up and temporary tattoos. They are less greasy than vegetable oils,
but they spread less easily onto the skin.
Octyl dodecanol A branched long chain alcohol with a mod-erate viscosity. It is used in cosmetics for
its specific solubilising power.
Oleic acid This liquid fatty acid it can be used as a re-placement of stearic acid in an emulsion.
Oleyl alcohol
This unsaturated alcohol is used as emol-lient and thickener in skin creams, lotions and many other cosmetic products.
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Raw materials for cosmetic emulsions
and make-up
Perhydrosqualene An emollient and moisturizer.
Petroleum jelly Considered as a high viscous mineral oil, it
is often used as a protective film in hand creams, etc…
Polyethylene glycols Polyethylene glycol (peg) is commonly
used in cosmetics as cleansing agents, emulsifiers, skin conditioners, surfactants.
Propylene glycol Has the same property as glycerin, but
less hydrating.
Raspberry seed oil An ideal oil for anti-aging and skin repair
formulations. This oil is rich in tocopherol and contains about 80% of linoleic and lin-olenic fatty acids. Thanks to the high ome-
ga-3 content this oil will also act positively on the inflammatory process (eczema, red
spots, itchy skin). Safflower oil
This vegetable oil is often used because of its high linoleic acid content.
Sesame oil Rich in essential fatty acids, mainly linoleic
acid, this oil contains a natural UV filter and for this reason it is used a lot in sun
products. Sesame oil is reputed to pene-trate the skin easily and is used in India for oil massage.
Shea butter
Has a melting temperature close to the body temperature, which gives a specific
touch to cosmetic emulsions. It is used as a moisturizer in creams and in hair condi-tioners for dry and brittle hair.
Sorbitan esters Sorbitan esters are lipophilic non-ionic sur-factants that are used as emulsifying
agents in the preparation of emulsions, creams, and ointments for pharmaceutical
and cosmetic use. When used alone they produce stable water-in-oil emulsions but they are frequently used with a Polysorbate
in varying proportions to produce water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions or creams with
a variety of different textures and consist-encies.
The ethoxylated sorbitan esters (Polysorbates) can be used for solubilizing fragrances and essential oils.
Soybean oil
Is one of the cheapest vegetable oils which has a high essential fatty acid content and is rich in phosphatides.
Stearic acid This saturated fatty acid is often used as a
thickener in creams. Sweet almond oil (cosmetic grade)
This natural oil is especially used in cos-metics for its spreading capacity. The oil
has hydrating and softening properties.
Walnut oil With its high concentration of linoleic acid, this oil is often used in suncare products.
Wheat germ oil
Often used in skin care, this oil has a very high percentage of natural vitamin E
(tocopherol).
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Certification Auditor Scope Certi
Certi
Certi- --
fications
fications
fications
ISO 9001:2008 PME Cert s.a. Development, production & sales of
chemical products
Kosher Circle K On request.
Organic — Bio Certisys sprl For vegetable oils
20/10/2011
Process Scope Toll manufacturing
Toll manufacturing
Toll manufacturing
Esterification From lab sample to bulk loads
Flaking & pastillation 10 to 200 t campaigns
Distillation & filtration min. 5 t campaigns
Molecular distillation upscaling facilities from lab sample to 100 t campaigns
Blending of liquids Room temperature or heated
Packing In drums, IBC’s, optionally in clean room.
Storage capacity For packed goods, ADR facilities
Mosselman s.a.
route de Wallonie, 4
B-7011 Ghlin Belgium
� +32 65 395 610
� +32 65 395 612
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