industrial attachment of cotton club bd ltd

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

COTTON CLUB (BD) LTD.

PART-A

INTRODUCTION

Bangladesh is one of the leading readymade garments exporters of the world. Every year Bangladesh exports

more than one third of the total garments requirement of the RMG market of the world. Every year

Bangladesh earns more than 76% of its foreign currency from this sector .That is why the study of garments

technology does deserve well practical practice. So our university provides 6 weeks industrial training in a

RMG factory. As a student of garment technology I have completed this industrial training in COTTON CLUB

(BD) LTD From garments making to decorating garments with embroidery is a truly Exclusive fashion house

that deals with lots of stuff like fabric quality, garments quality, dyeing quality, washing quality. The

Garments Division has the capability to offer a complete product range for the 100% export to EU & USA

market. The vision of the Garment Division is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality value

added garments from Bangladesh. With an urge to developing local human resource, the Garments Division

has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation’s growing RMG export sector to make it

more competitive

Chapter One Training Background This chapter begins with explaining the purpose of the report; followed by its scope and limitations. It ends by

mentioning the students’ responsibilities in training program and institution partnership with the company.

Background Training Program After successfully completing the B.Sc. in Textile Engineering course from Primeasia University, every

student have to take part in 42 days Industrial Attachment Training Program. For this training program the

students are divided into several groups and the groups of students are sent to the large and famous Textile

Industries for practical training.

Purpose The Industrial Attachment program fulfills part of the requirement in pursuing the degree of Bachelor of

Applied Science (B.Sc in Textile Engineering) in Primeasia University. This report serves to summaries the

activities and experiences gained with Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.

Scope and Limitations During the industrial attachment training, we, a group of two students of Primeasia University & other

University were involved in training through the whole factory. This report will only cover parts of the

project, which were done by the students. The experience gained during the attachment had helped the

students to fulfill the objectives of the attachment. However, due to unforeseen circumstances, the

commencement of the attachment was delayed. This resulted in a shortage of time for the completion of the

project. Therefore, this report will be limited to the stages of implementation prior to the date of reporting.

Further work and research that done after the date of reporting is not described fully in this report. The

emphasis of this report will be on the research done by the students, in addition to the experience that they

gained during the attachment. Frequent references will be made with regards to these concepts.

Students’ Responsibilities With the four years education in the institution students gain much theoretical knowledge. For the fulfillment

of B.sc in Textile Engineering course the Industrial Attachment Training program plays a vital role. It gives

the students a lot of practical knowledge and introduces with the factory environment. In this training program

the students has much responsibilities. They have to learn about all the process going on in the factory, all the

machineries used, faults and remedies in the different sections, administrations, utilities, costing of the

products. Finally students have to make a report on whole training program.

Institution Partnerships Cotton Club (BD) Ltd has an extensive network of relationships with selected departments in leading

academic institutions in Bangladesh, and invests considerable resources to support them. They are important to

Primeasia University because it shares with the academic community a concern to foster innovative research,

and to develop the skills and experience of the people involved in its generation and transfer. Over the past 10

years CCL has built up a portfolio of programs to encourage collaboration with universities across a broad

spectrum of mutually beneficial activities. Every year CCL hosts the students of PAU who work as internee to

gain industrial experience for their academic qualifications. It is hoped that this relationship will be increased

day by day.

Chapter Two

Company Details This chapter will give a brief introduction on the history of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd., the attached company,

Factory profile, No. of Employers and workers, their responsibilities, Organogram of different sections of the

factory and Head office, types of production and marketing, etc.

History of Cotton Club Ltd Cotton Club Ltd established in the year 2006, the quality standards and is engaged in manufacturing of all

kinds of knitted garments. Under the profound guidance of their mentor Haji Abdul Majid Mondol (Chairman

of Mondol Group, established in 1991), their company has gained an immense success and has earned

goodwill with twenty years of experience in the garments industries. The Chairman is guiding their team with

his wide experience and skill. Their product is made using top quality yarn that is procured from reliable

sources across world. They make use of world class in-house infrastructure and modern machines as well as

simple hand tools that helps in producing high quality fabric in large volumes and varieties. They are

dedicated to offer timely delivery of goods and services at affordable prices.

Mission Cotton Club Ltd. mission is to enrich the quality of life of people through responsible application of

knowledge, skills and technology. Cotton Club Ltd. is committed to the pursuit of excellence through world-

class products, innovative processes and empowered employees to provide the highest level of satisfaction to

its customers.

Vision Cotton Club (BD) Ltd will endeavor to attain a position of leadership in each category of its businesses.

Values

Strong work force that ensures quality finished fabric.

Major Competitor Cotton Club ltd company is a fully export oriented company so they have face both local and international

competition locally. There are many company compete with the Cotton Club ltd company those are India,

Pakistan, Koria, Thailand, China and in locally beximco, DBL Group, Anlima Group, Jalima Group, Square

Textile, Robin Tex ,ACS Textile.etc.

General Information of Factory:

Board of Directors of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.

Man Power Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Staffs of all section’s

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Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Workers of all section:

Total Manpower of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.

Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd. Staffs of all section’s

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Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd. Workers of all section:

Total Manpower of Cotton Clout (BD) Ltd

Grand Total:

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Organogram of all division:

Organogram of Head Office:

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ORGANOGRAM OF ADMIN AND PRODUCTION:

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ORGANOGRAM OF GARMENTS DIVISION:

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ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING DIVISION:

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ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING DIVISION:

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Duties and Responsibilities of Different Working Personnel:

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Machine Details in all sections:

Knitting Machines:

Dyeing Machines:

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Sewing, Cutting and Finishing Machines:

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Embroidery and Printing Machinery:

Power/ Utility:

Production Related Information:

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Buyer and Exporting Country:

Certificate Gain:

Bank Details:

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Sister Concerns of Mondol Group:

Tropical Knit Composite Ltd.

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PART-B

CHAPTER-1

KNITTING SECTION

This chapter begins with the fundamentals of knitting, then it goes with different types of fabrics produced in the Cotton Club and machines used for preparation of those and specification, manufacturing country and uses. Here different knitting terms, notation of fabric with cam arrangement are briefly discussed. This chapter ends with the faults of knitting and their remedie

Definition of Knitting Technology: Weaving and knitting is different for the interlacing techniques of yarn. In weaving it needs warp and weft yarn for produce woven fabric but in knitting, fabrics are produced from a series of yarn in warp or weft directions. Knitting techniques can be defined as follow. The processes in which fabrics are produced by set of connect loops from a series of yarns in warp or weft direction is defined as knitting. Different knitting machines are use to perform this techniques.

Types of Knitted Fabrics: Mainly two types of knitted fabrics are produced. They are as follow:

Warp knitted fabrics: In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from different thread and the number of thread used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the numbers of loops in horizontal row.

Weft knitted fabrics: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread runs in horizontal direction. The fabric structure is different from one from another. Weft knitted fabrics are widely use.

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Knitted Fabrics Produced in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.: The following types of fabrics are generally produced in Cotton Club.

1. Single Jersey a) Plain Single Jersey b) Single Jersey with Lycra c) Single Lacoste d) Double Lacoste e) Single Pique f) Double Pique g) Polo Pique h) French Terry i) Terry with Lycra j) Fleece k) Fleece with Lycra

2. Double Jersey a) Rib Fabric

b) Interlock Fabric

c) Collar and Cuff

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Different Types Knitted Fabric:

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Process Flow Chart of Knitting: Fabric manufacturing methods are divided into three types; they are as weaving, knitting and non-weaving. Yarns use to produce different types of fabric. Knitted fabrics are one of them. Knitting technology is one of the interesting methods for producing knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics are produced as the following flow chart.

Yarn in cone form ↓

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel ↓

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive arrangement and tension device ↓

Knitting ↓

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting ↓

Inspection ↓

Numbering

Knitted fabrics have world wide popularity. Different designed knitted fabrics are produced by this above techniques.

Classification of Knitting Machine: Knitting machines are use to produce knit fabric. Knitted fabrics are produced by the interlocking of one or more yarns through a series of loops by the use of hooked needle. Knitted fabrics are differing from one to another depending on their fabric design. Specific fabrics are produced from specific knitting machine. Knitting machines are classified as follows:

A. Weft Knitting Machine 1. Flat Bar Knitting Machine a) Flat Bed b) V-Bed c) Single Bed d) Unidirectional 2. Straight Bar Knitting Machine a) Single Needle b) Double Needle 3. Circular Knitting machine a) Revolving Cylinder; Sinker Top or Open Top Single Jersey Knitting Machine b) Revolving Cylinder; Cylinder and Dial Double Jersey Knitting Machine 4. Circular Bearded Single a) Sinker Wheel Knitting Machine b) Loop Wheel Knitting Machine

B. Warp Knitting Machine a) Rachel Knitting Machine b) Tricot Knitting Machine In modern times knit fabrics have a large verity. Verities type of knit fabrics is the demand of modern time. Such types of fabrics are produced in the knitting mill.

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Profile of Knitting Machines of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Circular Machine (Single Jersey) Sl.No Machine

Description

M/C Dia

Gauge Truck No

Attach Feeder Qty Brand Origin

1 SINGLE JERSEY

18‖ 24 4 LYCRA 54 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN

2 SINGLE JERSEY


3 SINGLE JERSEY


4 SINGLE JERSEY


5 SINGLE JERSEY


6 SINGLE JERSEY


7 SINGLE JERSEY


8 SINGLE JERSEY


9 SINGLE JERSEY


10 SINGLE JERSEY


11 SINGLE JERSEY


12 SINGLE JERSEY


13 SINGLE JERSEY


14 SINGLE JERSEY


15 SINGLE JERSEY


16 SINGLE JERSEY


17 SINGLE JERSEY


Sl.No Machin

e Description

M/C Dia Gauge Truck No


1 SINGLE JERSEY

30‖ OPEN

24 4 LYCRA 90 1 TAYU CHINA

2 SINGLE JERSEY

32‖ OPEN


3 SINGLE JERSEY

34‖ OPEN


4 SINGLE JERSEY

36‖ OPEN


5 SINGLE JERSEY

38‖ OPEN


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Sl.No Machine

Description

M/C Dia

Gauge Truck No


1 SINGLE JERSEY

19‖ 24 4 LYCRA 57 1 FUKAHARA JAPAN

2 SINGLE JERSEY


3 SINGLE JERSEY


4 SINGLE JERSEY


5 SINGLE JERSEY


6 SINGLE JERSEY


Circular Machine (Rib/Interlock) Sl.No Machine

Description

M/C Dia

Gauge Truck No


1 RIB/INTERLOCK 24‖ 18/22 4 LYCRA 48 1 JIUNNLONG TAIWAN











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Different Parts of Knitting Machine & Functions of Machine Parts Knitting machines are mainly two types; they are circular knitting machine and flat bed knitting machine. This two types are hugely use in knitting machine. A knitting machine is composed of lots of parts. Every parts of a machine are important for run the machine smoothly. Every part has a specific function during operation. Different knitting machine parts and their functions are given below: 1. Creel: Creel is called the holder of cone. Cone is placed in a creel for feeding the yarn to the feeder. 2. Feeder: Yarn is feed through the feeder. No of feeder is depends on the design of the fabric. 3. VDQ Pulley: G.S.M of the knit fabric is controlled by VDQ pulley. VDQ pulley is used for controlling the stitch length of the fabric.

4. Guide: Guide is called the supporting element. Guide is used to guide the yarn. 5. Sensor: Sensor is an automatic controlling system. When a yarn pass through this sensor than if any yarn break down or any problem occur than it automatically stop by this sensoring system. 6. Cylinder: Cylinder is the main parts of a knitting machine. Adjustment of a cylinder is important. Cylinder carries needle, sinker, cam and many more. 7. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller. Knit fabrics may be tube or open type. Spreader is adjusted as need. 8. Fixation Feeder: This type of feeder is used in electrical auto striper knitting machine to feed the yarn at specific finger.

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9. Rethom: Rethom is used in electrical auto stripper knitting machine.

10. Needle:

of knitted loops but all of them can be grouped in three main needle types:

In Cotton Club (BD) Ltd., Latch Needles are used for construction of weft knitted fabrics.

Main Parts of Latch Needle: a) Hook b) Latch c) Rivet d) Butt e) Stem

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11. Needle Bed: The needles are disposed in the slots of needle beds which can be flat or circular (dial and cylinder). A flat needle bed consists of a steel plate with grooves. In the grooves the latch needles are inserted in such a way that their butts protrude above the plate of the steel plate. In a cylinder needle bed the knitting needles are placed between the tricks inserted in cuts along the cylinder surface generated. 12. Cam: Cam is the second primary element. The cams are the mechanical devices which convert the rotary drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles or other elements. Types of Cam: Cams used in knitting machine are of three types:

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Function of Knitting Cam:

individual or seriatim movement in the tricks of latch needle weft knitting machines as the butts pass through the stationary cam system (revolving cylinder machines)

upon machine design, are fixed, exchangeable or adjustable.

13. Sinker:

the hook side between adjoining needles.

Function of Sinkers: It may perform one or more of the following functions depending on the machine knitting action and consequent sinker shape and movement. a) Loop formation b) Holding-down c) Knocking-over 14. Air Gun:

possible to attach the needle when machine running

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Knitting Action of Latch Needle Circular Knitting Machine: Knitting actions are: a) Rest position, b) Clearing position, c) Yarn receiving, d) Cast off or knock over stitch formation. e) Stitch Formation

Considerable Points for Producing Knit Fabrics Knit fabrics are the fashion of new age. Various designed fabrics are produced in knitting machine. Knitting flow chart should follow during operation. During production processes following machine parameters are considered.

rpm (revolution per minute)

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Considerable points to produce knit fabrics: Generally knit fabric production runs according to the order of buyer. When a buyer orders for fabric, they mention some points related to production and end product quality. Before production of knitted fabrics, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follow: a) Type of fabric or design of fabric: Knitted fabrics are various in design. When a buyer order for a product they give a sample or give the specification of the end product. Different designed fabrics are produced by changing the cam setting, needle setting and size of loop shape. b) Finished G.S.M: It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. In knitting section grey fabrics are produced but the programmer should make his program for getting the finished G.S.M after dyeing. Some points are considered while setting grey G.S.M; they are enzyme level, color and suided or non suided. G.S.M of the fabric is controlled by the following way:

bric can be changed. If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M is decrease and in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase. This also depends on the machine type. c) Yarn Count: Yarn count differ on the finished G.S.M. Higher the yarn count higher the G.S.M of the fabric. Sometimes spandex or lycra is used with the cotton in that‘s case yarn count of cotton select with the combination of lycra. d) Type of yarn: Different types of yarn are used for knit production. Cotton yarns may be combed or carded. Also synthetic fiber like lycra is used with cotton for some special case. All depends on the buyer requirement. e) Diameter of fabric: Diameter of the fabric is another factor. Fabric may be open diameter or tube diameter. Anyhow grey dia. will be selected with response of finished dia. of the fabric. f) Stitch length and color depth: If the depth of color of the fabric is high then loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so G.S.M is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller. Stitch length varies depending on yarn count and shade of the fabric. If stitch length is not fixed with respond to finished G.S.M then knitting faults appear.

GSM (Gram Square Meter): Measurement of GSM: GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.

GSM=(CPI X WPI X SL(mm)/Ne) X 0.9158

Here, CPI = Course per Inch WPI = Wales per Inch SL =Stitch Length Ne =Count

Stitch length: In the process sequence, yarn count is the first but in the order of overall importance. Stitch length has the most influence. GSM control means control the stitch length of the knitted fabric.

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Larger stitch length/loop length produces lower GSM & smaller stitch length/loop length has higher GSM

i.e., stitch length = Course length/ Total no of needle

Machine Gauge: A term giving a notational indication of the no. of needles per unit length along a needle bed or needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit length of one English inch (25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting machine. Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter depends upon the following:

Knitting Calculation: Production of a knitting machine: Production= (RPM x No. of Feeder x No. of Needle x SL x Effc. x 60 x 8) / (10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840 x 2.2046 x Count ) kg Formula for GSM Calculation: GSM = s x l x Tex /100 GSM= s x l x 590 / Ne Where S= Wales per cm x Course per cm= wpc x cpc l = loop length in mm

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Some Knitted Fabric Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement Fabric Name: Single Lacost 1. Stitch Notation:

Fig. Looping diagram 2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cams:

ii) Using three truck cams:

iii) Using four truck

cams:

Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement Fabric Name: Double Lacost 1. Stitch Notation:

stitch

K = Knit cam T = Tuck cam


1 = 1 Butt Needle

2 = 2 Butt Needle

3 = 3 Butt Needle

4 = 4 Butt Needle

K= Knit stitch = Tuck stitch

K = Knit cam T = Tuck cam

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲ 1

2

1

2

3

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

1

2

3

4

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

1=1 Butt Needle

2=2 Butt Needle

3=3 Butt Needle

4=4 Butt Needle

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

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1

2


iii) Using four truck cams:

Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement Fabric Name: Single Jersey 1. Stitch Notation:



iii) Using four truck cams:s

Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

1

2

1

2

3

4

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

1 = 1 Butt Needle

2 = 2 Butt Needle

3 = 3 Butt Needle

4 = 4 Butt Needle

X= knit stitch

K= knit cam

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

1

2

1

2

3

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

1

2

3

4

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Feature of Flat Knitting Machine

Flat knitting machine has two stationary needle beds. Latch needles are used. Angular cam of a bi-directional cam system is used. The cam system is attached to the underside of a carriage, which with its selected yarn

carriers. The carriage traverses in a reciprocating manner across the machine width. There is a separate cam system for each needle bed. The two cam systems are linked together by a bridge, which passes across from one

needle bed to the other. Normally machine gauge is 3 to 18 needles per inch and machine width up to 79 inches.

Machine in Flat Knitting Section Company Name : Round Star International Co. Number of Machine : 21 Stopper : 15 Feeder : 06 Needle : 1906

Different Parts of Flat Knitting Machine:

1. Carriage 2. Beds 3. Take down Roller

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4. Programming Parts

Flat/V-Bed Knitting Action

V-BED LOOP IN REST POSITION

BOTH LOOP CLEAR THE LATCH NEW YARN ARE RECEIVED

BOTH LOOPS ARE CAST-OFF AS NEW STITCH Increasing Production in Knitting Floor Knit fabrics are produced from circular knitting machine or flat bed knitting machine. Circular knitting machines are two types, they are single jersey or double jersey knitting machine. This two type‘s machine has different cam arrangement settings, which is responsible for design production. Anyhow, production of knit fabrics depends on various factors. By developing the following factors we can increase the production of knit fabrics.

1. Machine Speed: Production per hour depends on the speed of the machine. Higher the machine rpm, faster the movement of needle which increase the production. But we should make sure that, this higher speed will not impose excess tension on yarn. Excess tension on yarn can increase the breakage of yarn which is not desired.

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2. Number of Feeder: If the number of feeder increases in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. This is responsible for increasing the production. 3. Machine Gauge: Machine gauge also effect the production of knit fabric. Machine gauge vary depending on the type of machine and Manufacturers Company. Higher gauge machine gives higher production. 4. Automation System: By imposing automation in the machine, production can be increased. Following automation can be added for higher production.

n system for smooth operation

5. By imposing other developments: Following development can increase the production. 6. Creel feeding system can increase the production. 7. Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. 8. By using yarn feed control device. In modern time different advanced facilities added to the machine features, which will facilities the more production.

Knit Fabric Faults, Causes and Ways of Remedies Knit fabric is produced from loop formation. So it needs to be careful during production. Different types of faults could be found in knit fabric, which could be the cause of fabric rejection. If we can find out the defects of fabric during production, than we can take steps to remove it from the next knitting production process. In practical; following knitting faults could be found in the knit fabric. Some knitting faults and their remedies are given bellow: Hole Mark Causes:

Needle Mark Causes:

needle marks come along the fabrics.

Star Causes:

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Sinker Mark Causes:

sinker mark comes. Drop Stitches Causes:

loose of take down mechanism.

Oil Stain Cause:

Rush Stain Cause:

. Pin Hole Cause:

Grease Stain Causes:

Cloth Fall Out Cause: Cloth fall out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with close latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles. Barre Causes:

different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.

fibers have similar characteristics.

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n draw frame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver. Yarn Contamination Causes:

Fly Dust Cause: In knitting section too much lint or short fiber is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attached to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric manufacturing. Yarn Faults Causes: Different yarn faults also are cause for knitting faults.

Now, if we want to remove these knitting faults we should be aware before yarn selection and during knitting of fabric. Knitting machine conditions should be perfect. Needle, Sinker, Feeder and other equipments, which is used, should be fault free. So, Management related person should be aware about the causes of knitting faults and try to reduce the knitting faults.

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CHAPTER-2

DYEING SECTION

This chapter deals with the dyeing floor of the Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. It begins with the machine specification of dyeing floor and then is followed by the name of the dyes and chemical used, uses of the different chemicals, dyeing procedure of different types of fabric with different types of dyestuff. In this chapter the main faults and remedies of dyeing are briefly explained.

Batch Preparation:

Objectives of Batching:

–

batch as less as possible for same shade.

Batch Management: Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

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Process sequence of Batch preparation :

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Machines Used in Dyeing section:

Turning machine : Manufacturer Dong Nam Industrial Co., Ltd., Korea Feature: 1. The Machine is used to reverse the knitted face to back and back to face. 2. The Machine has capacity blower pipe, fabric turning pipe, roller and folding parts. 3. Process of fabric turning.

Air Turning Machine: Model : DNAT-400 Width : Roller 400 mm Machine Space : Over All = W1100 × L5600 × H1410 Set-Up = W2100 × L7600 ×H1510 Production Capacity : 7~10 Ton/22h/Day General Structure : Induction Pipe Parts Frame & Fan Parts Roller & Plaiting Part Spare Parts : Tool Box = 1set Electric Capacity : 11.75kw Fan Motor = 11kw × 1 Roller Motor = 0.75kw × 1 Air Consumption : 35mm-Lq PACK'CBM : 5.3 CBM G/R Weight : 1.4ts W/C Total 2 Case No.1 Body Parts 3.9 cbm, G/R 1.0ts (W1300 ×L1800 × H1660) No.2 Pipe Parst 1.4 cbm, G/R 0.4ts (W500 × L5200 × H530)

Dyeing Machines: The dyeing section of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Has 14 Dyeing machine. Three of them are sample dyeing machine and the rest are for bulk production. Machine specification of the machines is given bellow.

Sample Dyeing Machine: No. Of Machine : 3 Sets Name of Machine : ECL-S Medium batch yarn dyeing machine Manufacturer : Flying Yang, China Model : ECL-S-15 Nominal Capacity : 8-15Kg Total Power : 7.7 Kw

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Dimension : 2450mm×1050mm×2060mm

Machine Details: Factory Serial No. 1

Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 25 Sample

Dyeing Machine M/c Capacity : 25 Kg Maxm Working Temp. : 1360C Liquid Ratio : 1:6-1:8 Maxm Working Pressure

: 25 Bar

Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 15 Lt (Chemical) + 15

Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 15 L

Factory Serial No. : 2 Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 50 Sample


: 25 Bar

Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 35 Lt (Chemical) + 35

Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 35 Lt Factory Serial No. : 3 Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 150Sample


: 25 Bar

Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 100 Lt (Chemical) +

100 Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 100 Lt Factory Serial No. : 4 Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 600 HT Jumbo


: 25 Bar

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Factory Serial No. : 5 Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 900 HT Jumbo

Dyeing Machine M/c Capacity : 25 Kg Maxm Working Temp. : 1360C Liquid Ratio : 1:6 Maxm Working Pressure

: 25 Bar

Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 600 Lt (Chemical) +

600 Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 600 Lt Factory Serial No. : 6 Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 1200 HT Jumbo

Dyeing Machine M/c Capacity : 1200 Kg Maxm Working Temp. : 1360C Liquid Ratio : 1:6 Maxm Working Pressure

: 25 Bar

Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 800 Lt (Chemical) +800

Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 800 Lt Factory Serial No. : 7 Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 600 HT Jumbo

Dyeing Machine M/c Capacity : 600 Kg Maxm Working Temp. : 1360C Liquid Ratio : 1:6 Maxm Working Pressure : 25 Bar Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 400 Lt (Chemical) + 400

Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 400 Lt

Factory Serial No. : 8 (A) Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 450 HT Jumbo

Dyeing Machine M/c Capacity : 450 Kg Maxm Working Temp. : 1360C Liquid Ratio : 1:6 Maxm Working : 25 Bar

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Pressure Maxm Surface Temp. : 1400C External Tank Capacity : 300 Lt (Chemical) +

300 Lt (Dye) Water Capacity : 300 Lt

Factory Serial No. : 8 (B) Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 450 HT Jumbo



Factory Serial No. : 9 (A) Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 300 HT Jumbo



Factory Serial No. : 9 (B) Manufacturer : Dilmenler, Turkey M/c Type : DMS 300 HT Jumbo



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Main Parts of The M/C:

Main Tank: Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. This is the main dye bath which contains the dye liquor & the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor & fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have different number of nozzle connected to main tank according to the machine capacity.

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Reserve Tank/P.T: This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time.

Dosing Tank/Additional Tank/Mixing Tank: The dyes, chemicals & auxiliaries used in dyeing are passed to the main tank from additional tank. There may one or two mixing tank. At first, the dye or chemicals are mixed in the additional tank then it is injected or dosed in the main tank depends on the requirements.

Heat Exchanger: During the different stage of dyeing (also pre-treatment, after-treatment), there is a need of increasing or decreasing the temperature of dye liquor gradually. We cannot use liquor of required final temperature directly because there may be possibilities of thermal shocking of the fabric. So, the temperature should be increased or decreased in a controlled manner. This controlling is done by heat exchanger. Actually it is an indirect heater. During the circulation of dye bath liquor, the liquor passes through the heat exchanger.

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Mechanism of Heat Exchanger: 1. Heat-exchanger consists of no. of tubes surrounded by a shell body. 2. Two fluids of different temperature flow through the heat exchanger. The fluids can be either gas or liquid on either the shell side or the tube side. 3. One flows through the tube other flows through the shell. 4. The temperature of the two fluid is different, so transfer of heat occurs from one fluid to another through shell. 5. The fluids which flow through the tubes come in and pass out from the heat-exchanger on the same side. On the other hand the fluid used in shell comes in and pass out from the different side of the shell.

Liquor addition system from mixing tank to main tank: There are mainly two system of adding liquor from dosing tank to main tank. They are: 1. Injecting 2. Dosing Injecting: Injecting means to directly pass the liquor from dosing tank to main tank without any time required i.e. to inject the liquor from dosing tank to main tank. Dosing: Dosing is of two types. They are: 1. Linear dosing 2. Progressive dosing

Linear Dosing: To pass the liquor from dosing tank to main tank in a time equally. As for example if we want to pass 60g/l liquor in 30 minutes in linear dosing then we will have to pass 2g/l per minute

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Progressive Dosing: Progressive dosing is to pass the liquor from dosing tank to main tank at an equal increasing rate. It is always expressed in percentage. In fakir apparels ltd. 70% progressive dosing is used.

Name of Chemical and Auxiliaries Used:

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Name of Dyestuff Used in Cotton Club:

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Pre Treatment Process for Knitted Fabric: Scouring: The process of removing natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character

as completely as possible & leave the fabric in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing physical and chemical damage significantly and also make the goods suitable for removing the natural coloring matter in the subsequent during the subsequent bleaching process is called scouring.

Reaction of Scouring

Bleaching: Definition: Bleaching is the chemical process by which natural color is destroyed mainly from cotton fabrics. There are three types of bleaching. They are-

2O2 bleaching

Reaction of Bleaching:

In the presence of alkali the following equilibrium is set up

Per hydroxyl ion (HO2-) is the active bleaching agent.

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Dye Used in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.: In Cotton Club there are two types of dyes are used. 1. Reactive dye 2. Disperse dye 2.9.1 Reactive Dye: The dye which reacts with the fibers chemically and makes covalent bond with the fibers & become an integral part of it is called reactive dyes. Reactive dyes contain reactive group. In a reactive dye a chromospheres contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly react to the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of cellulose like cotton or flax, but also wool is dye able with reactive dyes.

The four different components of the dye:

the expected

effect of improving the solubility, since reactive dyes must be in solution for application to fibers. This means that reactive dyes are not unlike acid dyes in nature.

-reactive group. Frequently the bridging group is an amino, -NH-, group. This is usually for convenience rather than for any specific purpose.

-reactive group is the only part of the molecule able to react with the fiber.

Reaction Mechanism of reactive dye: A cellulose polymer has hydroxy functional groups, and it is these that the reactive dyes utilize as nucleophiles. Under alkali conditions, the cellulose-OH groups are encouraged to deprotonate to give cellulose-O- groups. These can then attack electron-poor regions of the fiber-reactive group, and perform either aromatic nucleophilic substitution to aromatics or nucleophilic addition to alkenes

D-SO2-C2H4-OSO3Na + OH-Cell D-SO2-C2H4-O-Cell + NaHSO3

Here, D=Dye part Cell=Cellulose polymer A reactive dye may be represented by: D-B-Y-X Where, D= Chromospheres of dye part B= Bridge (It‘s a part of dye molecules) e.g. NH-, -NR group Y= Reactive group bearing part (It can be a heterocyclic ring) X= Reactive atom or group (It can be the halogen group or activated vinyl group) E.g., -CH=CH2

Disperse dye: Disperse dyes have low solubility in water, but they can interact with the polyester chains by forming dispersed particles. Their main use is the dyeing of polyesters, and they find minor use dyeing cellulose acetates and polyamides. The general structure of disperse dyes is small, planar and non-ionic, with attached polar functional groups like -NO2 and -CN. The shape makes it easier for the dye to slide between the tightly-packed polymer chains, and the polar groups improve the water solubility, improve the dipolar bonding between dye and polymer and affect

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the color of the dye. However, their small size means that disperse dyes are quite volatile, and tend to sublime out of the polymer at sufficiently high temperatures.

Steps of Dyeing:

For Reactive Dye:

fixed dye, electrolyte and alkali from material.

For Disperse Dye:

rs into the fiber.

s region becomes Crystalline).

Dyeing Process with Reactive Dyes : Knit dyeing is near similar as yarn dyeing process but there is some difference in quality measurement. Generally all types of single jersey, double jersey and their derivatives are dyed by the following ways. The process may be slightly different due to shade variation viz., dark shade, and light shade. Here, a discontinuous dyeing process by hot brand reactive dyes is given which is use in the Cotton Club. But the dyeing sequence and chemical brand can be different depending on the choice of the manufacturer. Also, some steps of dyeing can be removed or some steps can be added for better dyeing efficiency. Different dyeing parameter is also important to get better dyeing efficiency.

Dyeing Curve

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For Polyester Dyeing: Polyester fabric dyeing is done by the disperse dyes. Disperse dyes are water insoluble; for this reason dispersing agent is used for make it soluble in the water. We can see the polyester yarn dyeing process for getting more information.

Curve

Common Faults And Their Remedies In Knit Dyeing 1. Crack, rope & crease marks: Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope

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Shock cooling of synthetic material Incorrect process procedure Higher fabric speed Remedies: Pre-Heat setting Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Reducing the m/c load Higher liquor ratio Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure 2. Fabric distortion and increase in width: Causes: Too high material speed Low liquor ratio Remedies: By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed 3. Pilling: Causes: Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric Excess speed during processing Excess foam formation in the dye bath

Remedies: By using of a suitable chemical lubricant By using antifoaming agent By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing 4. Running problem: A. Ballooning: Causes: Seam joining with too densely sewn Remedies: By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air. B. Intensive foaming: Causes: Pumping a mixture of air and water Remedies: By using antifoaming agent 5. Uneven dyeing: Causes: Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing) Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres Quick addition of dyes and chemicals Lack of control of dyeing m/c Remedies: By ensuring even pretreatment

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By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres By slow addition of dyes and chemicals Proper controlling of dyeing m/c 6. Shade variation (Batch to batch): Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable. Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters should be controlled carefully- Use standard dyes and chemicals Maintain the same liquor ratio 7. Dye spot: Causes: Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the temperature. Remedies:

We should pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer when adding it to the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed. 8. Patchy dyeing: Causes: Uneven heat in the machine. Improper impregnation of dye liquor due to the low wetting property of the fabric. Dye migration during intermediate dyeing. Remedies: By proper pretreatment. By adding extra wetting agent. Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. 9. Specky dyeing: Causes: Excessive foam in the dye bath. Fall of water droplets on fabric surface before or after dyeing. In sufficient after treatment. Remedies: By using antifoaming agent. Sufficient after treatment. By using a good wetting agent in the dye bath. 10. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation: Causes: Poor migration property of dyes. Improper dyes solubility. Hardness of water. Faulty m/c speed, etc Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals. Proper m/c speed. Use of soft water 11. Crease mark: Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material

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If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal Due to high speed m/c running Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Reducing the m/c load Higher liquor ratio Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. 12. Softener Mark: Causes: Improper mixing of the Softener. Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.

CHAPTER-3

DYEING FINISHING Finishing is the final steps of wet processing technology. A textile products either it is dyed or printed it needs to add some finishing feathers before marketing. By applying different finishing techniques a product becomes more comfortable to use. So finishing should be easier to apply. Dyeing/Printing + Finishing = RMG/Marketing The making of marketable and consumer useable textiles is not completed after fabric production, dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo additional steps known as Finishing. Finishing is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable for use. There are different types of finishing operation. Some make fabric stiffer, some make softener, some make fabric water repellent or water proof, some make shrink-resistant or fire-proof etc.

Classification of Finishes: Textile finishes are classified in different ways. The most classifications are: a. Aesthetic finishes: This type of finishes make change or modify the appearance of the fabric or hand/drape properties of the fabrics. b. Functional finishes: This type of finishes changes the internal performance properties of the fabric. Finishes also classifies as follows: a. Mechanical finishes: This type of finishes also called as dry finishes. This type of finishes involves specific physical treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance. b. Chemical finishes/Wet finishes: This type of finishes usually applied to fabric by padding followed by curing or drying. Finishes also can be classified by their degree of performance as follows: a. Permanent finishes: It involves a chemical change in fiber structure and do not change throughout the life of a fabric.

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b. Durable finishes: Usually last throughout the life of a fabric, effectiveness becomes diminished after each cleaning and near the end of normal use life of the fabrics, the finishing is nearly removed. c. Semi-durable finishes: Usually last several launderings or dry cleanings and many are removal in home laundering or dry cleaning. d. Temporary finishes: Removed or substantionaly diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaning.

Objectives of finishing: Followings are the objectives of finishing: To improve attractiveness of the fabric. To increase the life time or durability of the fabric. To meet up specific requirement of the fabric for achieve the final goal. Finishing plays an important role in the modern age. Everyone likes to wear finished products with some special types of finishing. Finishing of the fabric depends on the requirement of the buyer. Different types of finishing machine are use in finishing operation.

Process Sequence of Finishing Machineries: Finishing machineries are used for applying various types of finishes to the fabric or textile materials. All the finishing sequence is not same. Finishing sequence depends on the material types. Say, dyed yarn finishing process or garments finishing process is not similar as knit fabric finishing process. Although, finishing sequence of open form and tubular fabric form is not similar. After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular form. Knit fabrics are finished in open or tubular form according to the buyer‘s requirement.

Process Sequence of Finishing for knitted Jersey Fabric in cotton club is as follows:

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Machines Used in Finishing Section

Slitter Machine Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying machine. Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there.

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Stenter Machine: Stenter is used for open form fabric. After passing the open compactor, fabric enter into the stenter. Cotton fabric shrinks widthwise and weft distorted due to bleaching and dyeing process.

De-Watering Machine In knit fabric finishing process; de-watering machine is used after passing the hydro-extractor machine. After hydro-extracting of the fabric, remaining water is removed by the de-watering process. During de-watering process additional chemical is used for soften the fabric. Different types of operational parameter are controlled during de-watering process.

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Compactor Compactor machines are two types. They are- 1. Tubular compactor 2. Open compactor Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the compactor machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here, different types of off line quality of the fabric are measured. Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric. Here, slitting machine is used for open the fabric from the tubular form.

Drying Machine In textile finishing unit; dryer uses for dry the knit, woven fabrics and dyed yarn. But the drying process and drying mechanism of yarn and fabrics is different from one to another. In dryer, drying and curing is done as per required.

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1. Drying: The main functions of a textile dryer is to dry the textile fabrics. Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric. 2. Curing: Curing can be defined as a process following addition of a finish to the textile fabrics, in which materials are heated for a certain time in elevated temperature to effect a chemical reaction. This curing operation is most common in finishing of the printed goods.

CHAPTER-4

GARMENTS MAKING SEQUENCE

Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below:

Design / Sketch ↓

Pattern Design ↓

Sample Making ↓

Production Pattern ↓

Grading ↓

Marker Making ↓

Spreading ↓

Cutting ↓

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Sorting/Bundling ↓

Sewing/Assembling ↓

Inspection ↓

Pressing/ Finishing ↓

Final Inspection ↓

Packing ↓

Send to buyer /Despatch

Descriptions above these processes are given below:

Design/Sketch: For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of computer.

Pattern Design: Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer.

Sample Making: The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound person.

Production Pattern: The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor modification.

Grading: Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

Marker Making: All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption calculations.

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Spreading: It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited upto maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe.

Fabric Cutting: On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.

Sorting/ Bundling: After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

Sewing or Assembling: It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the ga4rmnet to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending

on specific circumstances. Number of sewing machine.

Inspection: Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, spots etc. if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction. If the defect is not correction able, then the garment is separated as wastage.

Pressing/ Finishing: After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension.

Final Inspection: It is the last stage of inspection f the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing. Packing: After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed

form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily.

Despatch:

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The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the dispatch department or finished products go down, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.

CHAPTER-5

STORE OR INVENTORY SYSTEM

Inventory:

Inventory is the stock of any item or resources used in an Organization.

Fabric storage:

Supplied Grey fabrics are first subjected to the 4 point inspection system and fabric allowance point is 28 per 100 yards. only those goods are stored here which are passed from the quality control department. And defected fabric are back to the supplier.

The types of fabric defect are check in 4 point inspection system.

- Oil spot

- Missing yarn

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- Dye defect

- Hole

- Color yarn

- Drop pick

- Net

- Knot

- Broken yarn

- Slub yarn

- Color shading

FABRIC STORE 4- Point inspection system:

Defects (length wise): Penalty point:

1. 0-3 inch……………………………1 2. 3-6 inch……………………………2 3. 6-9 inch……………………………3 4. 9 inch & above…………………....4 5. Any hole& miss pick……………...4

Example: Suppose inspected fabric length=100 yds, fabric width=50 inch, and following faults are found. Faults length No of faults 0-3 inch 3 3-6 inch 5

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6-9 inch 3 9 inch & above 2

We know,

Points/100 yds= Total penalty points*100*36 Fabric length*Fabric width 13 36 Points /100 yds = ────×100×────

100 50 = 09.36 Per 100 sq/yds

Fabric inventory: Various types of fabric and accessories such as sewing tread, button, interlining, zippers, label etc are stored in central room. Here also machine sparse parts and stationary are stored in store room. The flow sequence of fabric inventory is given below: Received the fabric

Pre-inspection

Physical inventory

Make the swatch card

Prepare blanket shade

Shade segregation Issue fabric to cutting room. Fabric is separated and stored according to lot number. Accessories inventory: Flow sequence of accessories inventory is given below

Import receive

Physical inventory

Swatch making

Swatch approval from buyer

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Register/Record the entry Supply to sub store according to demand Issue to bulk production

Accessories inventory item: Hanger sizer: Identify the size of the garment by hanger

Label: Labels are the most important trimmings by which customer easily, know about the

product. Here two types of label are available:

1. Main label: It contains the name of buyer and country. Ex. Wal-Mart, USA etc

2. Sub label: i. Size label: It contains the size of the garment ii. Care label: It contains care construction. Different types of care label are given

below. a. Washing code b. Bleaching code c. Ironing code d. Dry cleaning code e. Drying code

iii. Cost label: It contains the cost of garments. iv. Composition: It contains fiber composition of the fabric. Ex 65% cotton,

35%polyester. Sewing thread: Different types of sewing treads are available in store room. Such as

60/3 (100% polyester) 50/3 (core spun yarn) 40/3 (100% polyester) 20/3 (100% cotton) etc

Button: Many types of button are available in store room. Some examples of button are given below.

Horn button Purl button Shank button Snap button Coconut button Chalk button

Amount determination of button: There are two systems of determination the amount of amount. These are given below.

1. 1G.G =12GRS 2. Each cartoon contain 750 gross

1 gross =144 pcs 750 gross =144×750=108000 pcs

Toggle:

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Special type of accessories used in jacket, bags etc. To reduce and increase the length and also for better fitting, it is used. Interlining: Types of interlining are available in store room are given below.

o Dot fuse. o Paper fuse. o T.C interlining. o Woven fabric fuse. o Non fuse etc.

Packing section: Various types of packing accessories are available in store room such as polybag, packing board, tissue paper, hanger, scotch tape, gum tape, carton etc. Flow sequence of packing section is given below:

Make shipping mark according to P/O, PDM sheet

Approve from buyer

Carton measurement confirm from Q.C dept

Sample make (carton)

Re-approved from buyer

Ensure net and gross weight

Go to bulk production

Complete the carton with garment Cartons are made according to buyer instruction and length wise it contains the buyer name, widthwise it contain the measurement, net & gross weight. Carton contain the information are printed by screen print style. Quality for Inventory/Storage: Fabrics or other Raw Materials and Accessories should be safe from the following: 1. Soiling, 2. Mechanical damage, 3. Environmental damage due to temp. & R.H% which may cause dimensional changes, 4. Fungal Attack, 5. Fadding due to light exposure, 6. Damage during Handling.

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CHAPTER-6

SAMPLE, PATTERN, MARKER

Flow sequence of sample section is given below:

Receive developed sheet from buyer

Develop the sample

Send the sample to buyer for approval

Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary)

Send pre-production sample to buyer

Start bulk production

Types of sample produce by COTTON CLUB (BD) LTDaccording to buyer demand: There is various type of sample those are given below:

1. Original sample: This type of sample made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer sketch and measurement. 2. Proto/ Develop sample: Here measurement is very important but need not to match the fabric and accessories. 3. Seal sample: Seal sample is approved by the buyer with tag. 4. Size set: All sizes of sample are produced such as S, M, L, XL, etc, and send to buyer. 5. Wash sample: Shade of wash sample must be matched with original sample after washing. It also determined by grey scale. 6.Pre-production sample: First garment of bulk production is called pre- production sample.

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7.Add sample: For advertising of the product buyer want this type of sample. 8.Sales man sample: To supply the new product in different showroom, buyer wants this sample. 9.Photo sample: Only photograph of the product is send to buyer. 10. Shipment/ Reference sample: After completion the shipment of the garment some garment are kept in sample room which are known as shipment or reference sample. 11. Pre-line sample: This type of sample is collected from anyone line during production. 12. Lab-test sample: Sample is tested by third party or buyer‘s nominated lab.

Pattern making:

After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they make sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern by own when buyer don not give any pattern.

Marker making:

Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before

cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width

of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is

kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.

The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize

wastages.

Objects of marker making:

- To reduce cost;

- To improve the quality of the garments;

- To reduce the cutting time;

- To facilitate large scale production.

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Possibilities of marker making:

Generally there are two methods by which marker can be made –

MANUAL METHOD:

The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and requires more

time. Manually two types of marker are made –

1. Full size marker:

Full size marker is made for production purpose.

2. Miniature type marker:

Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule and learn or

study i.e. for planning and learning purposes.

COMPUTERIZED METHOD:

Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized method. In this system, a

man performs it by himself using computer software (CAD and CAM) and it requires considerably

less time than manual system. Two types of marker are generally made using computerized

system –

1. Full size marker:

Using ‗Digitalizing Board‘ the pattern pieces are input into the computer. Computer uses software

and a marker paper is printed out that will be used in the production.

2. Miniature type marker:

Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is printed from the

computer.

Computerized system is also two types –

Interactive:

Manually it is done by using computer. Generally a computer operator can do it and requires less

time.

Automatic:

The pattern pieces are replaced on to the marker by programming. A high technician can do so

and it requires more time.

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Factors considered during marker making:

The important factors considered during marker making are –

Nature of the Fabric:

The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the fabric should be

considered during marker making.

Lay planning of patterns:

Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should be taken under

consideration.

Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line:

It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a fabric is very

much important for a garment and the grain line indicates the warp or wale direction.

Requirements of cutting:

Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker making the cutting

allowances are considered where necessary and where is not. It may produce more wastage and

may reduce the dimensions of patterns.

Production planning:

Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may un at a time in an industry. So during

marker making it should be considered.

Size of marker:

During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric, etc.

Marker Efficiency:

The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area of the maker paper is

technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is expressed in percentage. If it is denoted by the

symbol ή then –

Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area of the

Marker paper) * 100

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The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency –

Manufacturers of the marker;

Size of pattern pieces;

Length of the marker;

Pattern Engineering;

Nature of the fabric;

Method of marker making;

Marker width;

Kinds or design of garments.

Constraint of Marker making:

The hinders of marker making are –

Grain Line:

Grain line is a more effective constraint of marker making. Because of grain line sometimes it is

tough to place the pattern pieces on to the marker, even though it is possible the wastage

become higher.

Design of Garments:

Sometimes the designs and repeats of the fabric are regarded as constraints of marker making.

The patterns may miss the designs or may overlap the designs.

Nature of the Fabric:

Nature of the fabric may sometimes be regarded as a constraint of marker making. Nature of the

fabric includes symmetric and asymmetric.

Cutting Accuracy:

Accurate cutting may be one of the constraints of marker making.

Production Planning:

Production planning includes rate of production, types of garments, sizes of garments, etc.

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Fabric wastages inside and outside of the marker:

Inside wastage: That wastage that is obtained from the inter-spaces of the pattern pieces in the marker paper. It depends on the efficiency of the marker maker and on the size of the patterns as well.

OUTSIDE WASTAGE: Besides the inside wastages, some fabric is wasted outside of the marker –

Ends of the ply losses:

Generally each ply of the fabric losses up to 4 cm at both sides (Two sides * 2 cm).

End of fabric losses:

The length of fabric may sometimes not cover the ply, it may finish its end at less than 5 yards

(cut piece). This piece of fabric goes through wastage and is called end of fabric losses.

Selvedge losses:

Generally selvedge losses are 2% to 3%.

Purchase losses:

Sometimes losses may arise from purchase. Wrong consumption calculation may cause huge

wastage.

Computerized marker making system:

To get the optimum efficiency of markers as well as to minimize fabric wastage they done marker by computerized marker making system (VEITH). It has the digitizer by which the patterns are make grade and with the help of the software as well get output as marker with the plotter. The VEITH system is discussed in below.

Description of CAD system is given below

In Cotton Club Winda CAD machine is used for pattern making, pattern grading and marker making.

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PLOTTER MACHINE Procedure of CAD section:

In CAD section at first the pattern put on the digitizer to take clear image of the pattern part inside the CPU.

After making all required size patterns using the software pattern parts are aligned in the mini marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CAM section for approval and checking the length & width of marker and pattern parts alignment.

After getting approval from CAM section then

printer is used to print out the whole real marker then this marker as well as mini marker are provided to the CAM section for cutting the fabric.

Working sequence 0f CAD section:

Receiving of pattern parts

Taking the image of pattern in CPU by Digitizer

Moderizing of all pattern parts by the software

Aligning all size pattern parts in the marker by the software

Completing the marker

Taking approval from CAM section

Bringing out the marker through plotter.

COMPUTERIZED MARKER MAKING Sequence of operation for each product: Order Collection

Development sample

Produce pre production sample

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Sample approved

Pattern making

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Cutting

Sewin

Inspection

Packing

Then delivery or shipment

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CHAPTER-7 CUTTING SECTION

Flow Chart of Cutting section: Receive the Fabric

Fabric Inspection

Relaxation

Fabric Spreading Manual Automatic Marker Making Manual CAD

Placing the Marker Paper on the Lay

Cutting

Manual cutting Automatic cutting

Numbering

Bundle Card

Bundling According to Card Number

Quality (Panel Check)

Replacing

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Solid

printing/Embroidery

Quality Check

Matching Size Wise Arrange/ cutting Number

Bundling

Rib/Piping/Cuff

Master Bundling Sewing Input

Spreading Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layer. The usable width of the fabric constraints the maximum width of the marker paper. During spreading number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds but it depends on the thickness of the fabric and the height of the cutting knife. For example: if the thickness of the fabric is higher than the number of plies mentioned above would not valid and in case of straight knife cutting instrument the maximum lay height should be 70% of the blade height.

Ideal Lay height for cutting

Fabric weight Woven Knits

Heavy Weight 4-5" 5-4"

Med Weight 3-4" 3-3.5"

Light Weight 2.5-3" 2-2.25"

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Requirements of fabric spreading: Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:

1. Alignment of fabric plies

2. Correct ply tension

3. Elimination of fabric faults

4. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability

5. Elimination of static electricity

6. Avoidance of fusion of plies

7. Avoidance of distortion in spread

8. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles

9. Fabric must be flat

10. Matching checks or strips.

Spreading system in factory

Manual spreader group : 4 group

Gerber Spreader : 3 pcs

Fabric Spreading Cutting: The definition of cutting is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Marker outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut in wrong way, cannot be rectified.

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Methods of Fabric Cutting Fabric cutting methods are as follows:

Manual Method

Scissor

Straight knife

Band knife

Round knife

Die cutting

Notcher ,and

Drill etc.

Computerized Method Straight knife cutting (GERBER Cutter)

Water jet cutting

Laser beam cutting, and

Plasma torch cutting etc.

Cutting Section: Straight knife cutting machine :16 pcs

Cutting table : 6pcs

Mainly two methods of manual cutting are used in factory Scissor

Straight knife

Features of Scissor

It is the first and oldest method of fabric cutting.

This is used for cutting one or two plies of fabric.

It can be cut the fabric accurately by proper caring.

Separate systems are available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left.

Most of the fabrics can be cut by scissor. But it needs more time to cut the fabric

and contains high cost.

For these reasons there is limited use of hand operated scissor.

Hand operated scissor are available in tailoring and household purpose to cut the

fabric.

Straight knife cutting machine Machine name : K.M company cloth cutting m/c Model : K.M KS_AUV Producer : made by K.M cutting m/c co, JAPAN Typ : Heavy duty industrial cloth cutting m/c self sharpening Dimension : 8 inch width * 11 inch length * 24 inch height Weight : 33.5 lb Current : A.C (3.3/2.6 amps)

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Speeds : 3000/3600

Machine parts

- Base plate

- Terminal block

- Plug

- Clamp washer

- Pressure foot

- Blade Straight knife cutting machine

- Sharpener pulley

- Pulley spring

- On/off switch

Features of Straight knife cutting machine

Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from

the fabric lays

Could be used to cut for higher depth of

fabric

High cutting speed

Sharp and heavy corners can be cut

Blade could be sharpened by attaching

grinding facilities

Blade height 10 to 33 cm

Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm

Special attachment such as sew edge or

serrated edge can be provided for heavy fabric such as canvas or denim.

Advantages of straight knife

Comparatively cheap and can be transferred easily from one place to another.

Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.

Round corners can be cut more precisely then even round knife.

Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.

Garment components can be directly separated from fabric lays.

Fabric can be cut from any angle.

Disadvantages of straight knife Sometimes deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor.

Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high

Sometimes accident may happen.

Computerized Straight knife cutting (GERBER Cutter) Fabric Height 7.2 cm 2.83 in Throughout put-average 8m/min 315 in/min Cutting Speed 30.5 m/min 1200 in/min Head acceleration 2.4m/sec² 1/4g Table Weight 4511 kg 9947 lbs Control power 3 wire 200V-240V, 1 PH,50-60Hz Table Vacuum 380/440V, 50/60 Hz Average Energy Consumption 17KWh to 20KWh

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Compressed Air Consumption 85 liters/min @6.8 bar Temperature 43ºC 110º Fahrenheit Vacuum upto 760m above sea level Noise 80 DBA

Cutting Section Quality Control: The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section.

Quality Inspection for Marker:

Every parts Measurement check, Calculate the total no. of parts of each Garments, Marker length & width determined.

Fabrics Roll spreading Inspection:

Roll number, GSM, Shade number, No. of lays, Ends of Bits

Spreading Quality Control (Defects):

Table marking, Ends, Splices or Joints, Leaning, Tension, Counts, Fabrics flaws, Marker placing,

During Cutting Quality Control:

Miscut, Matching plies, Ragged Cutting, Notches, Pattern Check

100% part Checking.

Numbering In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

Prepared the bundling card Prepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

Date

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Style No

Size Number

Card Serial

Quantity

Color

Lot Number

Bundling according to card No In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.

Quality Check (Panel check)

a) Oil spot

b) Dirty spot

c) Crease mark

d) Needle mark

e) Foreign yarn

f) Slub

g) Contamination

h) hole

Then same numbers of sticker are matched fold & bundl

LIMITATION OF CUTTING SECTION 1. Input problem

2. There is may be no group for any table

3. Preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric

4. Check, variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject

percentage may be increase.

5. Fabric spreading

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CHAPTER-8

SEWING SECTION

Sewing The process of joining of fabrics by the use of needle and sewing thread or by other techniques is called sewing.

Elements of sewing

Sewing Thread,

Needle &

Sewing Machine

Flow Chart of Sewing Section:

Input from cutting

Initial Inspection part by part

Stitching with Process Wise Quality Check

Table Quality Check

Size Wise Garments Count

Sucker Machine

Sewing Output

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Sewing Thread Almost all garments produced have one component in common; the sewing thread. Whilst sewing thread is usually a relatively a small percentage of the cost of garments, it has an extremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the finished product. The production of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subject. Sewing thread used in factory

Cotton

Flaming thread

Elastic thread

Lorex thread

Sewing Needle A sewing needle is long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were made of bone or wood; modern ones are manufacturing from high carbon steel wire, nickel-or gold plated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are made of platinum. Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needle will be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. The action of needle has a direct effect on seam strength and garments performances.

Function of a Needle The functions of a sewing needle are

To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through without causing any

damage to material.

To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.

To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on

machines other than lock stitch.

Parts of a Sewing Needle The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below:

Butt It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which is needed to attach the needle with needle bar or clamp.

Shank Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates within the needle bar. It may be cylindrical or flat at one side.

Shoulder Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the

blade. Blade It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part is responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.

Long Groove There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needle thread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up and down.

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Short Groove Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook or looper. It assists in forming the loop of needle thread.

Eye Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing thread passes. It prevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing.

Scarf Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just above the eye. Its

purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to the needle.

Point It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and the appearance that has to be produced.

Tip Tip is the keen extreme end of the point.

Sewing machine Types of sewing machine

Plain m/c (S/N)

Double needle m/c (D/N)

Overlock m/c

Flat lock m/c

Kanshai m/c

Button hole m/c

Button join m/c

Bartake m/c

Cylinder bed m/c

Flat bed m/c

Thread use in different Machine Machine type Thread type Plain/ Auto plain m/c 1 needle thread 1 bobbin thread Double needle m/c 2 needle thread 2 bobbin thread Over lock m/c 2 needle 2 needle threads 2 looper thread Cylinder bed m/c 3 needle thread 1 spreader thread 1 lopper thread Flat bed m/c 3 needle thread 1 spreader thread 1 lopper thread

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Different Sewing Machine Parts Single needle sewing machine or plain machine

Fig: plain m/c Machine parts:

Thread stand

Thread Clamp

Thread Retainer

Thread up lever guide

Thread guide

Tension disk

Pressure screw

Pressure bar

Pressure feet

Hand lifter

Needle clamp

Needle

Needle Plate

Feed dog

SPI adjuster

Reverse lever

Bobbin winder

Pulley

Oil sight winder

Pulley belt cover

Leg lifter

Foot

Safety guide

Motor

Fig: Over lock sewing machine

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Machine parts:

Thread stand

Thread Clamp

Thread Retainer

Thread guide

Tension disk

Pressure screw

Pressure bar

Pressure feet

Pressure spring

Eye protection Glass

Upper & Lower Looper

Needle clamp

Needle

Needle Plate

Feed dog

SPI adjuster

Pulley

Oil sight window

Pulley belt cover

Leg lifter

Safety guide

Motor

Cylinder bed machine

Fig: Cylinder bed machine

Machine parts:

Thread stand

Thread Clamp

Thread Retainer

Thread guide

Tension disk

Pressure screw

Pressure bar

Pressure feet

Eye protection Glass

Looper

Needle clamp

Needle

Needle Plate

Feed dog

SPI adjuster

Spreader Mechanism

Pulley

Oil sight window

Pulley belt cover

Safety guide

Motor

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Flat bed sewing machine

Fig: Flat bed sewing machine Machine parts:

Thread stand

Thread Clamp

Thread Retainer

Thread up lever guide

Thread guide

Tension disk

Pressure screw

Pressure bar

Pressure feet

Hand lifter

Needle clamp

Needle

Needle Plate

Feed dog

SPI adjuster

Reverse lever

Bobbin winder

Pulley

Oil sight window

Pulley belt cover

Leg lifter

Eye protection guide

Looper

Spreader mechanism

Piping mechanism (Folder)

Safety guide

Motor

Different types of sewing: Stitch Name: Single thread blind stitch ISO Stitching Code number: 103 (Blind Stitch) Use in process: Blind hem, belt loop etc.

Face View Back View (Not visible on back) Stitch Name: Lock Stitch (it is the most common stitch

Face View

Back View (bobbin thread) Stitch Name: Double needle Lockstitch:

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Face View

Back View (bobbin thread) Stitch Name: Zig Zag Lockstitch

Face View

Back View Stitch Name: Chainstitch

Face View

Back View (Looper Thread on bottom) Stitch Name: 2 needle chainstitch

Face View

Back View (double looper thread on bottom) Stitch Name: Two needle cover stitch

Face View

Back View (Looper thread) Stitch Name: Three needle cover stitch

Face View

Back View Stitch Name: Three Thread Overedge Face View

Back View

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Sewing Quality checking points Skip/Drop/Broken stitch

Raw edge

Size mistake

Uneven hem

Uneven cuff

Uneven neck

Uneven shoulder

Uneven placket

Uneven pocket

Twisting

Without care label

Open tack

Sleeve up-down

Stripe up- down

Open seam

Four point up-down

Shading etc

Sewing Line quality Check List:

1. Buyer Approved Sample & Measurement Sheet Check. 2. Sample Wise Input Check. 3. Buyer Approved Trims Card Check. 4. Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check. 5. All Machine Thread Tension Check. 6. Style Wise Print & Embroidery Placement Check. 7. All Process Measurement Check. 8. All Machine Oil Spot Check. 9. All Process S.P.I Check as Per Buyer Requirement. 10. Input Time Shading, Bundle Mistake & Size Mistake Check. 11. Buyer Approved Wise Contrast Color Check. 12. As per Buyer Requirement Wise Styling Check. 13. All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.

Sewing Table Quality Check List:

1. Style Wise Garments Check. 2. All Process Measurement Check.. 3. Front Part, Back Part, Sleeve & Thread Shading Check. 4. S.P.I Check for All Process. 5. Print/Embroidery Placement Check. 6. Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check. 7. Size Mistake Check. 8. All Process Alter Check. 9. Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.

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Sewing Defects:

Needle damage, Skip stitches, Thread Breakages, Broken Stitches Seam Grin Seam Puckering Pleated Seam Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch density Staggered stitch Improperly formed stitches Minimizing slack times.

Sewing problems “factory”

Input problem

Shortage of skilled operator

To achieved the overtime, they worked slowly

1. If any problem will create during production then

Nobody will take the responsibility,

Nobody will give the instant decision.

2. Sewing line production may be depends on incharge.

3. Needle hole- due to friction, needle eye is to large, mistake of needle selection.

4. Measurement problem- from cutting section

5. Seam pucker

Due to unequal tension of feed dog and pressure foot on two plies of fabric.

Due to unequal thread tension.

Shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.

6. Broken stitch

Due to tension variation between needle & bobbin thread.

Tension of needle thread is more.

Low quality sewing thread.

Needle heating or hook heating.

Sharp edge of throat plat, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove etc.

Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.

Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eyes and spring.

7. Skipped/ Slipped stitch

If the timing between needle & looper or bobbin is not proper. Needle thread

loop is not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required.

If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs.

Unequal tension between sets of threads

Deflection or vibration of needle.

8. Variable stitch density

If fabric can not move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressure

foot.

Due to faulty feed mechanism.

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CHAPTER-9

FINISHING SECTION

Finishing Lay Out:

Flow chart of finishing section:

Garments wash

Loop cutting

Thread trimming

Alter checking

Stitch others

Button attach

Ironing (In side)

Inspection (inside & outside)

Batch label attach

Final ironing

Joker tag attach

Needle detector check

Size tag attach

Waist belt attach

Hanger attach

Poly packing

Cartooning

Shipment

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Trims:

Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of

items used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection of trims and its quality are very

important for styling; otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers.

Following is a part of list that covers some names of the items:

Zipper/Fastener:

Teeth : Nylon, Vislon, Metal

Color : Tape color, Teeth color

Size : #3, #5, #8, etc.

Length : As per requirement 18 cm, 72 cm

End : Close End (C/E), Open End (O/E)

Slider : One way, Reversible.

Sewing Thread:

Shade, color fastness, etc.

Tensile strength, Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain, Abrasion Resistance,

etc.

30s, 60s, 20/2, 40/9 Ne, etc.

Labels:

Main label

Size label

Care label

Content

Price

Patch, etc.

Button:

Horn and

Metal buttons are very common in use.

ELASTIC:

Cotton

Polyester, etc.

101

Eyelet:

Antique

Matching, etc.

Velcro:

Hook and Pile

String/Cord:

Cotton

Polyester, etc.

Tags:

Price tags

Hang tags, etc.

Polybag:

Strength, Chemical mixture, Thickness (micron/mm; 1mm = 1000 micron).

Blister Bag:

0.05 mm in thickness;

Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag.

Carton:

3 ply

5 ply

7 ply Size (L, W, and H).

Sticker:

Hook and Pile.

Plastic Clip

Tag pin

Scotch Tape

Hanger

Gum Tape

Etc

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CHAPTER-10

IE DEPARTMENT The main function of this department is to re- engineering the garment from the sampling stage so that it would be production friendly for the production as well helps to increase the productivity through machine layout, time and motion study. In the sewn products industries we must continually ensure that we remain competitive and profitable whilst also striving to improve our personal and community‘s standard of living.

Industrial Engineering Department :

To follow up the production process

Work process development

SMV calculation & Line target

Efficiency control

Time study

Capacity study

Workers training

M/c sequence lay out

Thread consumption

Operator Interview

Duties and Activities of A Work Study Officer: Style details collect

SMV make

Layout make

Machine arrange

Attend P.P meeting

First week production plan

Line feeding

Work aid arrange

Method study (innovation) & take video & record

Time study

Line capacity find out

Bottle neck operation find out

Individually follow up bottle neck operation and try To increase production

Capacity & efficiency wise target setting & try to achieving

Line balancing

Motivation the worker

Maximum time stay in production line & try to solve any kinds of production related

problem

Monitoring the production achievement hourly & daily

Loss time record

Overall, try to increases the productivity.

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Layout Time standards Work flow Hourly targets Machinery Production checks Standardize method Line balancing Quality specification Training curves Capital investment appraisal Maintain payment systems Attachment Sewing method specification

Method Study

The systematic recording and critical examination of existing and alternative methods of work, to

facilitate the introduction of more efficient and cost effective methods.

Workplace layout: The layout of a workplace impacts directly on the pattern of movements and consequently time taking to perfume and operation When analyzing a method the following steps should be considered:

Work measurement: There are number of different techniques that can be used to carry out work measurement within the sewn products industries, the traditional alternative to general sewing data is time study. The skills required are:

1. The ability, skill and experienced to read and operate a stopwatch.

2. The ability, skills and experienced to assess the rate of working (performance) of

individuals workers.

Time study: This is the process by which we calculate the SMV (standard minute value) in ―in process inspection‖. There are two types of SMV such as estimate SMV and garments SMV. It is done by following formula, Take a stop watch and take times for 10 times for a operation and finally calculate the SMV of this operation and production per hour.

WORK MEASUREMENT METHOD STUDY

104

GLOSSARY OF TREMS ALLOWANCES: It is necessary to add allowances to the basic time for a task to compensate the operator for specific conditions and circumstances encountered during a normal working period. For example fatigue, personal needs, machine delays and emergencies. These allowances are listed in the glossary in alphabetical order and a specimen reference table is also set out under a separate handing

Basic Time: The time for carrying out an element or cycle of work at standard performance rating depending upon whichever scale is used The formula is

Basic time

Break point: the point at which one element of work cycle ends and the next‘s one begins. This point should be easy to see and if possible to hear.

Cycle time: The time taken to complete all elements of work that constitute the complete operation of work cycle.

Production study: In the sewn products industries it has become normal practices to record each operation cycle performance rating and observed time. The time that the operator spends dealing with problems ideally each problems being classified and the number of occurrences recorded, along with the appropriate time is also recorded during the production study. This facilitates allowance checks. Standard minute value (SMV): The total time allowed for a job to be completed at a standard performance. It includes the work content, relaxation, delay and contingence allowances as appropriate. It may also include additional policy allowances.

Efficiency: How well an individual or group performs against a predetermined standard (100%) It is extremely difficult, arguably nearly impossible to achieve 100% efficiency using accurate measured data, unless the same or vary similar styles run continuously year on year. The formula is:

Line Balance: Used to describe the mathematically calculation of outputs for a factory, line or team based upon pre-determine levels of, production output, efficiency, attendance, operation sequences and standard minuets values.

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CHAPTER-11

MERCHANDISING This chapter deals Merchandizing Department. It gives some information of merchandizing, then it discusses about the requirement of different materials of making garments. It ends with the recent price of different knitted fabric.

Merchandising department: Merchandising department is the star of the department among all the working departments in the Export concern, because Merchandising is the only department having maximum control over the departments and total responsible for Profit and loss of the company. After LPG (Liberalization, Privatization & Globalization) the business gets more important and now merchandising is on its hot seats. So, it is necessary to understand the day to day happenings of the star department. Merchandise- means goods bought and sold; and trading of goods. Merchandising- is an activity of selling and promoting the goods.

Merchandiser in garment industries: In the field of marketing and services, Merchandiser is at a position of utmost importance, He is the person who co-ordinates with various departments for a uniform business.

Objects of Merchandising Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on time, taking into consideration of the 4 Rs to replenish the customer.

Right Quantity: To dispatch right quantity of product what buyer ordered. Right Quality: It should be with right quality as accepted both parties. Right Cost: Everybody wants more from what they are paid. Right Time: No one wants to wait idle even in a Restaurant. Keeping delivery schedule is

mandatory.

Flow Chart of Garments Merchandizing

Buyer Correspondence & Meeting ↓

Recap Preparation ↓

Lab Dip & Yarn Dip ↓

Sample Fabric Booking ↓

Accessories for Sample ↓

Initial Sample Preparation

↓

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Fitting Sample Preparation ↓

Photo Sample with actual specification ↓

Pre Production Sample Preparation ↓

Bulk Accessories Booking after Buyer‘s Approval ↓

Bulk Fabric Booking ↓

Size Set Sample/ Trail Cutting ↓

Production Start

Merchandising Calculation FABRIC OR BODY CONSUMPTION:

(Body length+ Sleeve length+ Allowance x Chest + Allowance x 2 x GSM /

10000000) x 12 x 10% (+)

= Result kg./dozen.

NB:

BL+SL+ Allowance= 10 cm. Allowance.

When keep the chest allowance then body width, chest width and bottom

width which is big ( cm) with ( 4 cm+) Added.

10% overall Process Loss.

1 dozen= 12 pcs.

BODY CONSUMPTION BY MARKER: Length x width x GSM x12 / 1000 / 1550 / Ratio x 12%

DIA MEASUREMENT:

Chest or Bottom + Allowance / 2.54

=Dia / Result

NB:

1 inch = 2.54 cm

When I dia measurement then chest or bottom with (4-6 cm) allowance added.

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SELF FABRIC OR RIB FABRIC NECK CONSUMPTION: Total Neck Length = Front neck drop + Back neck drop x 2

= Total neck length / Result.

(Total Length + Allowance x Neck Width + Allowance x 2 x GSM /10000000) x 12 x

10%(+)

= Result kg. / Dozen.

NB:

TL + Allowance = 2 cm

NW + Allowance = 2 cm

2 mean, Double part.

10% overall process loss.

SELF OR RIB FABRIC NECK DIA MEASUREMENT:

Neck opening or Width + Neck drop x 2 /2.54

= Result.

PANT & TROUSER OR PAJAMA CONSUMPTION:

(Length + Allowance x dia x 2 x GSM / 10000000) x 12 x 10%(+)

= Result kg. / Dozen.

NB: L + Allowance # with self fabric waist minimum ( 12 cm) Allowance added.

Without self fabric waist minimum (8 cm) Allowance added.

Allowance minimum 15 cm added with Hip or Dia.

DIA = Hip + Allowance / 2.54

NB: 1 inch = 2.54 cm.

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POCKET CONSUMPTION: Length + Width + Allowance.

NB: Allowance minimum 5 cm added with ( L+ W).

CARTON DIMENTION: Length + Width + Allowance x Width + Height + Allowance x2 / 10000

= Result / SQM.

NB: L + W + Allowance = 6 cm.

W + H + Allowance = 3 cm

2 = Double part.

BUTTON LINER (FIND OUT FORMULA): 1 GG = 144 Dozen.

1 GG = 1728 pcs.

Liner = Button Dia / 0.61

= Result / liner.

NB: Always Button liner is plural number.

As like 16,18,20,22,24

YARN BOOKING Fabric yarn ( kg ) + Process Loss.

= Result / kg.

NB:

Process loss keep the 10% added with total fabric.

SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION: Cone Quantity = per garments thread x garments qty. x qty. in cone.

Plain Machine : 1‖ for 2.75‖

Over lock (3 Thread) : 1‖ for 14.5 ―

Over lock (4 Thread) : 1‖ for 16.5‖

Over lock (5 Thread) : 1‖ for 18.5‖

Flat lock (3 Thread) : 1‖ for 13.5‖

Flat lock (4 Thread) : 1‖ for 16‖

Picot : 1‖ for 21‖

Zigzag : 1‖ for 22‖

Kanchai Machine : 1 ― for 11‖

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NB: 1 Cone = 4000 meter.

Should be 40% wastage with the following consumption.

It may more or less for sewing stitch.

CALCULATION CUBIC METER (CBM): CBM = Carton length x Carton width x Carton height x Carton Qty. / 1000000

= CBM / Result.

NB: 100 cm x 100 cm x 100 cm = 1000000

20 Feet = 28-31 CBM

40 Feet = 56-62 CBM

MARKER CONSUMPTION ( FORMULA ): Open Dia = Marker length x 2.54 x Marker width x 2.54 x GSM / 10000000 / Marker

Pcs x 12 x 10% (+).

= Result kg. / dozen Tube Dia = Marker length x 2.54 x Marker width x 2.54 x GSM /1000000 / Marker Pcs

x 12 x 10% (+).

= Result kg. / dozen

Price of Different Knitted Fabric Jersey $ 0.15 Jersey with Elasthan $ 0.35 Y/D Jersey $ 0.25 (Feeder Stripe)1.76 (Auto Stripe) Y/D Jersey with Elasthan $ 0.45 (Feeder Stripe)2.00 (Auto Stripe) 1X1 Rib $ 0.18 1X1 Rib with Elasthan $ 0.38 Y/D 1X1 Rib $ 0.25 (F.S) Y/D 1X1 Rib with Elasthan $ 0.40 (F.S) 2X1 Rib $ 0.25 2X1 Rib with Elasthan $ 0.45 Y/D 2X1 Rib $$ 0.30 (Feeder Stripe) Y/D 2X1 Rib with Elasthan $ 0.48 Pique $ 0.25 Pique with Elasthan $ 0.45 Y/D Pique $ 0.35 (Feeder Stripe)1.76 (Auto Stripe) Y/D Pique with Elastane $ 0.50 (Feeder Stripe)2.00 (Auto Stripe) Iterlock $ 0.35 Iterlock with Elasthan $ 0.50 Y/D Interlock $ 0.40(feeder) Y/D Interlock with Elasthan $ 0.55 (feeder) Terry $ 0.40 Terry/Lycra $0.50 Fleece $ 0.44

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CHAPTER-12

QC DEPATRMENT This chapter deals with the QC Department of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. Its Specifies the objective and function of QC Department. Besides, it also mentions the test perform in QC Department and faults found in textile products.

Quality Policy It is the policy ofCotton Club(BD) Ltd. to produce quality dyed knit fabrics that meet or exceed customers expectations & needs. To implement this policy the top management of Cotton Club(BD) Ltd. Is committed to provide adequate resources in terms of good raw materials and trained personnel & continually improve / upgrade its processes and systems.

Quality objectives

Overall material/product loss (Level of rejection) for the company during the production process (in a year) shall not exceed 1.5 %

m/c breakdown time. M/c breakdown time should be reduced to 20 % from its current status/position

Machines Required

ubbing fastness tester

Inspection Area

Shade match of fabric

Faults Found in QC Department Dyeing faults:

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Finishing faults:

GSM variation

Quality Assurance System Quality assurance system can be divided into following steps: 1. On line Quality assurance system and 2. off line Quality assurance system. Again on line Quality assurance system can be divided into the following steps: (a) Raw material control. (b) Process control.

Online Quality control: Raw material control:Cotton Club(BD) Ltd. always very concern about the quality of the product. So, they knit grey fabric from the best quality yarn & utilizes technical evaluation in every stage of the production, as we know the quality product depends on the raw material quality. Process control: The method chosen for process must be provided with the necessary accurate parameters. In the every stage pH should be maintained sincerely.

Off line quality control: After dyeing the material is received by the finishing section. Before receiving the following things are checked: 1. Shade condition. 2. Wash fastness. 3. Condition of softening. 4. Condition of enzyme wash. Before delivery the finished fabric to the customer it should be passing against the requirements. The following tests are done-

ess to perspiration.

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CHAPTER-13

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance This chapter deals with the maintenance machineries sand instruments, maintenance schedules.

Maintenance of Machinery The machineries used in textile wet processing should be subjected to scheduled maintenance activities for their optimum performances at their following points: 1. Routes of different utilities like water, stem, gas, electricity, compressed air, etc. 2. Dyestuff & chemical dosing system. 3. Drainage system of waste water, color & chemical. 4. Driving arrangement of different machineries. 5. Power transmission to different machineries. 6. Fabric guiding system through the machineries. 7. Cleanliness of machine parts.

Maintenance Schedule: 1. Perform visual inspection 2. Check bearing. 3. Clean & grease. 4. Inspecting all sides. 5. Clean & oiling. 6. Cleaning of drain valves. 7. Checking of all electrical wires. 8. Checking of circuit breaker, magnetic contractors.

Maintenance Tools & Their Equipment The most important maintenance tools that are used frequently are tabulated:

Maintenance Tools Function Grease Lubrication Tread tape Joining of broken metallic parts Cutting disc For cutting pipes, rods. Globe valve Fitting for stem line. Maintenance Tools Function Union Fittings for water, steam line. Union elbow Fittings for water, steam line. Cutting oil Lubrication Gear oil Lubrication Hydraulic oil Lubrication Oil gun Oil application Spanner Tightening of nut bolts Master range Tightening of nut bolts Flat screwdriver Screw tightening & loosening Star screwdriver Screw tightening & loosening

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CHAPTER-14

STORE AND INVENTORY CONTOL

This chapter deals with the store of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. and inventory system of different inventories.

Inventory System for Raw Material In Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. there are different inventory systems for different raw materials. The flow is given below —

Raw material receive ↓

↓

Store in main go-down by bin card. ↓

Running go-down. ↓

Production floor.

Grey fabrics store: All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store, near the batch section. Different types of fabrics are listed in the sheet according to the fabric types, quantity & consumer‘s requirements. Fabrics GSM, shrinkage, diameter & other properties are also taken into consideration. The bathes are prepared by taking the required fabrics from the grey store. At present the grey fabrics store of CCL containing the following types of fabrics-

Dyes & Chemicals store: There is a different store for dyes & Chemicals. Various types of dyes & chemicals are stored here according to the dyes & chemical company. Different types of dyes of dyes & chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes & chemicals are also included. Every day the is updated & a copy of this is supplied to the dyeing manager, Dye house & lab section.

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Finished goods: Cotton Club(BD) Ltd. supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So, dyed finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the delivered fabrics are noted on the tally khata according to the Lot no., quantity, fabrics diameter, buyer‘s name, colors, & considering other parameters.

Others: There is a central store at CCL. In that store the various types of forms, papers, stationary & other necessary goods are kept.

Accessories Store: According to Buyer and style number, store keeper arranged their rack for inventory. When an order is confirm they communicate with merchandiser / suppler and confirm inventory. Store keepers receive all accessories by counting. If everything is ok then they give satisfactory comments and if found any kind of problem they mention in challan sheet. After receive all accessories they give entry in computer & keep arrange in rack for easily searching. Trim card make for different style & buyer wise for smooth work.

Trim card contain with: -Main, size & care label. - Back neck tape. -Button. -PSP paper. - Tag pin. -Master carton. -Poly stiker. -Carton stiker. -Poly bag. -Logo gum tape. -Heat transfer. -Interlining. -woven twill fabric. -Country flag sticker. -hang tag. - Mobilon tape. - Security label

Engineering store: Objectives: Keep store all kind of engineering, maintenance (needle, spare parts, feed dog etc.), Dyes chemicals & stationary materials in engineering store for smooth production. How to work: Engineering store place a requisition to procurement department by estimate of all materials. After that procurement department send all of materials to engineering store. Before receive all materials they ensure about quality & quantity, then they give entry in computer and arrange in rack. When any requisition is come from any department, they give issue to respective department.

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CHAPTER-16

COMPLIANCE ISSUE

Compliance:

Compliance means comply something i.e. yield to the wishes another. The main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labor rights and facilities according to buyer code of conduct. Different compliance issues which they are obeyed: Admin & HR dept.:

Personnel policies: o Recruitment policy o Leave and holiday policy

Attendance and leave register card: o Their weekly working hour not more than 66 hours including overtime in a week. o They have the approved manpower list.

Health & hygiene:

First aid ensures. Medicine registers. Maternity and pregnancy register. Pure drinking water Towel for hand dry.

Safety:

Safety committee Fire fighting committee Rescue committee Broken needle register Needle detector Fire alarm & switch Evacuation plan Rubber mats to every iron man.

Welfare:

Welfare committee Day care centre Canteen facility

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Salary and wages:

Fix wages in considering minimum wages which is declared by the government.

Salary and wages given before 7th day of month.

Physical security:

They have separate cargo entrance area (receiving and unloading) from the front side.

They do not keep any partially filled/ completed cartons on the floor at the end of any

working day. They keep it to finished goods store.

Education and training program:

They arrange security training program on regular basis for all employee of the factory.

Compliance item:

Some example of compliances item are given below:

First aid box

Water pot

Toilet

Wash basin

Complain box

Evacuation plan

Exhaust fan

Emergency exit/light/ light set

Smoke detector

Fire extinguisher

Hose cabinet

Manila rope

Gas musk

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PART-C

Chapter One

Conclusion The industrial attachment, which lasted for nearly two months, had come to an end. The program had greatly enhanced the students‘ knowledge in different section of textile engineering and improved their industrial based skills. This section discusses the conclusion of the attachment, as well as the experiences and benefits gained by the student.

Discussion: Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. is one of the most versatile business conglomerates in the private sector in Bangladesh. Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. is committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures through education, training, communication and employees involvement. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitted fabric in time with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise to meet the manufacturing to quality and promote delivery. Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the year the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers. According to their capacity they have an enriched production team which is very rare in other factories of Bangladesh. The working environment of this factory is very cordially & friendly. All of the executives & employees of this factory are very much cordial & they always appreciate the learners. The goal of Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. is to get high production & to maintain the quality of the product at a minimum cost. There is no non-woven m/c in this factory. But it is able to produce all types of knit structure. There is no person to input the self shade of different types of lot every-day in the spectrophotometer but for accuracy of the recipe, it is very important to input the self shade of different lot of dyes in a regular basis. In dyeing lab of CCL using digital pipeting system, I think, their accuracy will increase to a maximum level. For dyeing they are using Dilmenler m/c but those are not latest.

Achievement I got the general information of such a large factory that gives menthe clear idea about

the requirements of a composite industry setup with all necessary manpower & machineries.

I have earned some knowledge about the quality management system of different sections of the industry.

I have identified the process sequence of different units that gives me the better idea about running of a program.

I got the information related to amount of wastage of different unit that will help me to calculate the benefit & loss of any project that can be run.

I have developed my knowledge in a very important sector like research & development that will help me to enrich my working experience in all area of textile in spite of a specific machine or section.

Different types of fabric of diverse design & construction are being analyzed by me that given me much better idea about manufacturing of individual types of clothing.

Communication with different buyers & merchandiser helped me to develop my personal skills & self-confidence.

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I have harmonized myself with the industrial environment, work & administration that will help me to do job in any industry.

Furthermore I achieved some practical knowledge about every steps related to production of a woven fabric that will facilitate me to develop my experience more in this field. Some suggestions:

During the transport of the fabric in the knitting floor, fabrics are grubby for the contact with floor. This makes the fabric/part of the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring/bleaching agent or may create stain making it faulty.

The dyeing floor is dirty most of the time; it should be cleaned all the time. The upper shed of the dyeing floor is a bit broken which causes water fall when

raining. The illumination of the dyeing shade should be enhanced. It may exert the worker

fatigued. More skilled labor should be used in dyeing project. Much time the dosing pipelines

are clogged due to the careless dosing of chemicals. The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance should

be carried out when the m/c is out of action (wherever possible) Air pressure is a great problem of BDL. Most of the time it fails meeting the exact

demand. Limitations of the report:

Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities has not been supplied & hence this report excludes these chapters.

We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more details it was not possible to do so.

Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not available. The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, hence

our ef-fort spent on summarizing them. At the End For every person who is fresher in the field of textile, industrial training works like learning route. This course given me the opportunity to move liberally in every section of the industry to learn the industrial work & follow the process sequence virtually. From my two months observation of the industry along with research & development section specially, I can say that in the knitting sector this industry has very strong possibility because the industry is running with all modern machineries & very knowledgeable persons are working all the time with their maximum oomph. I just think the capacity of the industry should be developed with the amount of order the industry is being taking. In the production floor the commanding power of the officers, compliance, administration rules everything is appealing. I hope that this industrial training will help me a lot to work in the future period wherever I want to develop my career. Finally wishing the best prospect of both the industry & myself I want to conclude.

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Chapter Two Bibliography and References This chapter mentions the Bibliography and References used to prepare this report. Web Sites

www.textileinstitute.com www.textechworld.com en.wikipedia.org Google Search engine www.mondol.net www.cclbd.com www.texi.org

Books

Basic Principles of Textile Coloration, Authors: Arthur D Broadbent Practical Dyeing, Authors: James Park, John Shore Knitting Technology, Author: David J. Spencer.

Software

Office 2007 Adobe Photoshope Adobe Acrobat Reader Mozila Firefox ACD See Adobe Illustrator

industrial attachment of cotton club bd ltd

Engineering

garments quality

industrial attachment

practical training

training background

weeks industrial training

garments division

background training

students responsibilities