indistrial attachment of micro fibre group
DESCRIPTION
TRANSCRIPT
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INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTMICRO FIBRE LTD
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Letter of Transmittal
Date- 15nd May’ 12Syed Faqrul HassanProfessor & chairmanDepartment of Textile EngineeringSoutheast University
Subject: Submission of the “Industrial attachment Report”.
Dear Sir,We are pleased to submit our “Industrial attachment Report” This is submitted under theprogram of B.Sc in Textile Engineering in Southeast University.
The Report has been completed in accordance with the knowledge that we have gatherduring our Industrial Training and the guidelines received from our honorable teachers andour group members.
We tried to make this Report is to give a clear picture on Fabric Manufacturing Technology,Wet processing Technology & Garments Manufacturing Technology practically used onMicro Fibre Ltd. However, we will always be ready to provide any further clarification thatyou may require.
Yours Sincerely,
Mohammad Tahmidur Rahman 2008100400096Md. Lokman Hossain 2008100400086Md. Abir Hossain 2008100400084Md. Najmus Salihin 2008100400082Batch: 8th Sec: GMT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah for giving me strength and ability tocomplete the industrial training and this report. You have made my life more beautiful. Mayyour name be exalted, honored and glorified.
Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assistedand inspired me, Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebtedfor his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Working with him Ihave not only earned valuable knowledge but also was inspired by him innovativeness whichhelped enriches my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was trulyremarkable.
I would like to thank the management of the MICRO FIBRE LTD. for giving me theopportunity to complete the industrial training successfully and also for their valuablesuggestion. My deepest gratitude goes to Executive Director Mr. Amirul Haque, GeneralManager Mr. Mizanur Rahaman Patwoary, Assistant general manager Mr. Solaiman Hossain,MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their permission to conduct my industrial training without which itwould be impossible. Their generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like to thankspecially our senior brothers and sisters working there efficiently as textile engineer. I am greatlyindebted to them. I also want to thank executives, senior executives and other official’s employeeof MICRO FIBRE LTD. for helping me to complete industrial training successfully. Mygratitude also goes to all the employees of MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their sincere co-operation,support and valuable advices.
Finally my heartfelt thanks goes to my training mates for their indescribable co-operation& sincerity.
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Table of Content
Topics Page no.Letter of Transmittal 1
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 2Table Of Content 3
Introduction 7Vision 7
Mission 7Chapter-1
Project Description 8Project Location 9History of Project Development 10Different Department 11Product mix 11Layout Design 12Physical Infrastructure 13Remarks 14Chapter-2
MANPOWER MANAGEMENTOrgan gram of man-power administration 15Management system 16Shift change 16Total Section Wise Man power Management system 16Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O 17Remarks 17CHAPTER -03
RAW MATERIALSTypes of Raw Materials 18Yarn 18Sources 18Grey Fabrics 19Sources 19Price: 19Chemicals 19
Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing 20
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Printing chemicals function 21Annual requirement 21Remarks 21CHAPTER-4
Knitting SectionProduction Flow Chart of Knitting Section 22Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries 23List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries 25List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries 27List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries 28List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries 28List of Cloth Inspection Machineries 29Machine Description 30Description of production process 32GSM 32Production calculation 33Required yarn count to maintain G.S.M 35Relation Between different yarn count, fabric type, stitch length & finishedGSM 35Structure, cam arrangement & notation diagram of various fabric 37Fabric fault 39Remarks 39Chapter-05
Wet processing SectionProduction flow chart for fabric Dyeing 40Process sequence for Cotton Dyeing 41Pretreatment 41Dyeing 44Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes 45Re-dyeing process 45After Treatment Of All Program 47Common textile auxiliaries used in dyeing 49Problems Encountered In Dyeing 51Printing 53Finishing 56CHAPTER-6
Garments sectionIntroduction 72Sample Section 73IE (Industrial Engineering) 75CAD Section 77Cutting Section 79Sewing Section
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Introduction 87Sewing Procedure Flow Chart 88Sewing Procedure 89Types of seam 92Stitch 97Machine Identification 102SEWING NEEDLE 107Sewing Thread 110SMV calculation 113SEWING DEFECTS OR PROBLEMS 114Sewing Quality Checking Points 117Finishing Section 118GARMENTS MERCHANDISINGDefinition 120Flow chart of merchandising 120Responsibilities of Merchandiser 121GARMENTS ACCESSORIES 122CHAPTER-7
Quality Assurance SystemQuality assurance 124Object of quality control 124Quality Control Flow Chart 125Quality Management system 125Various Test 127WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LAB 128Dyeing And QC Laboratory Machineries 129Fabric Inspection 134Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests 137Quality Standard 145Remarks 146CHAPTER-08
MAINTENANCEMaintenance of machinery 147Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance 148Maintenance procedure 148Maintenance work to the different machines 149Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions 151Remarks 152CHAPTER-09
UTILITY SERVICEAvailable Utility Facilities 153Utility cost 156
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Remarks 156Water treatment plantProcess Flow chart 157Function of different tank 157Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)Flow chart for ETP 158Effluent analyzing report 159Chemicals Used in ETP 159CHAPTER-10
STORE & INVENTORY CONTROLInventory system for raw material 160Grey fabrics store 160Dyes & chemicals store 160Spares 160Finished goods 160Remarks 161CHAPTER-11
COST ANALYSIS 161CHAPTER-12
MARKETING ACTIVITIESConsumers of Product 162Name of buyer 162Importing countries 163Manpower of marketing 163Strategy 163Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer 164Remarks 164CHAPTER -13
CONCLUSION 165
Introduction:
Final course industrial training is one of the most essential parts of engineering &technical education. This industrial training is included in our syllabus to acquaint us with thepractical implementation of the technology studied within the industrial environment. Though it isvery helpful & lays the milestone for starting the carrier for fresh Textile graduates.
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Fabric manufacturing, wet processing technology and Garments manufacturingtechnology which occupies a vast field in modern Textile technology is undergoing many stages ofprocessing. Many problems are generally being encountered during each operation stage startingfrom yarn to fabric and fabric to finished garments stage. Finally from mill training, we learnpractical Knowledge about on fabric manufacturing and wet processing under industrialenvironment. We think it will be helpful in our future carrier.
Vision:
To establish as a one stop source for the Global knit Apparel market and to satisfyand meet customers expectation by developing and providing products and services on time,which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety and Environmental impact.
Assuring complete compliance with the international quality standards and alsoproviding the employees internationally acceptable working condition and standards. Topromote the development and to use human talent and equal opportunity of employment.
Mission:
Micro fibre realizes the need to take out a competitive segment in the changing globalmarket of today through technological excellence and human expertise. Micro fibre is committed totranspose its local success to the world scene.
CHAPTER-01
PROJECT DESCRIPTION
Name of the project : MICRO FIBRE GROUPSister organizations : A-One polar Ltd,
Liberty Knitwear Ltd,Midland Knitwear Ltd,Orient Chem.-Tex Ltd.
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Type of the mill : 100% export oriented knit composite textile mill.Year of establishment:1998Registered Office: 331, Tongi Dioversion Road, Moghbazar, Dhaka –
1217, BangladeshFactory Address: Ramarbagh, Kutubpur, Fatullah, Narayangonj,
Bangladesh0189-214648, 0173-034617 (E.D)0171-3001607 (D.G.M-Production),0173- 011112 (Merchandising Manager)
Communication: The project is easily accessible by road. The routehas been clarified in the location map presented inthe previous page.
Sponsors: The mill is sponsored by M.S. Zaman.Capacity: Gray knit fabric production 8000 Kg/day
(approximately)Dyed knitted fabric 22-24 ton/day (approximately)
Project cost: Cost of the project is approximately in Taka250,00,00,000
Project area : 7.00 acres
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Location Of TheMICRO FIBRE GROUP
Chashara
Micro
Fibre
Group
Chittagong
Road
Shibo Market
Fatullah
Narayanganj
Fatullah
Fatullah
Stadium
Sign
BoardZatraBari
Tikatoli
Gulistan
Ramarvag
Kamolapur
railstation
Fatullah
Rail
station
WE
N
S
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History of project development:
It is a moment of rejoice to introduce Micro Fiber Group (MFG) to its clientsand patrons. MFG believes whatever it has achieved; its credits should be directed toward itsclients.
Micro fibre group started their Textile business in 1998 by starting construction of the buildingfor project setup. At 1st they set up Garments project. In 1999 they went to production of fabricand dyeing with a dryer of 400 kg & 6 ton capacity boiler. As an ambition to expand the businessthey setup knitting section in 2000 & to fill the demand of knitting they setup as well as stenter,calendar, dewatering m/c, dryer for finishing. With the passage of time different type of m/cwere brought to the mill to improve the quality & production. The mill is well oriented for knitcomposite project.
Therefore, when many struggle to survive in post-MFA world; its business in fact enjoying ahealthy growth.
Moreover, having endless efforts to ensure internationally accepted employment practice, itsclients recognize us as a partner to protect their value system and images among final consumers.
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Different departments:i. Knitting section
Circular Flat
ii. Dyeing section: Knit dyeing
iii. Garments sectioniv. Costing & Financev. Logistics
vi. Maintenancevii. Planning section
viii. QC section
Product mix:
Types of raw materials processed here are-
i. cotton- 100% combed or cardedii. polyester-cotton blend (p/c or t/c), (65%pet+35% cotton)
iii. CVC (60% cotton+40% polyester)iv. grey melange (85% cotton+15% viscose)v. Ecru melange (98% cotton+2% viscose or 99% cotton+1% viscose)
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Security
RoomHealth
facilities
Room
Liberty
Garments
Micro
Finishing
Micro
Dyeing
Utilities
Room
Utilities
Room
Midland
Dyeing
Midlandfinishing
Midland
Printing
Maintenance
Department
Office
Office
Office
Midlandfinishing
Midland Knitting
&
Garments
Office
Dyes &
Chemicals
Store
Store
Car parking
Office Entrance
Midland
Dyeing
MidlandFinishing
Laboratory
Canteen
PrayerPlace
ETPE W
S
N
LAYOUT DESIGN
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Cost &finance
Accounts
MICRO FIBREGROUP
Knitting
Dyeing Garment Admin Maintenance
Knit(admin)
Knit(prod)
Knitdyeing
QCProd
Gmt(Admin)
Gmt(Prod)
ElectricDept
Mechanical Dept
Utility Cleaning
Physical Infrastructure:
Remark:Micro Fiber Group is a well established knit composite industry. The
industry stands on industrial area of Ramarbagh, Narayangonj. It is a Group of Companies, .It is going to prove its own standard of product quality in world market as they know that
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their reputation depends on quality. It is a profitable project and contributes the economy ofour country.
CHAPTER -2
MANPOWER MANAGEMENTOrgan gram of man-power administration
MANAGING DIRECTOR
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
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GENERAL MANAGER
ASST. GENERAL MANAGER
ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER MANAGER (LAB & QC)
SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER OFFICER
PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR OFFICER
ASSISTANT PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR LAB ASSISTANT
SENIOR SUPERVISOR LAB ASSISTANT
SUPERVISOR LAB BOY
ASSISTANT SUPERVISOR
SENIOR OPERATOR
OPERATOR
ASSISTANT OPERATOR
HELPER
Management system:
In Micro Fiber Group the management system is regular. employees are wellskilled and are graduate in their respective profession.
Shift change:
The industry has two shift .Duration of every shift is 12 hours. Workers get onehour break time. Shift change depends on the work order and production. There is asupervisor in every shift who takes the working activities & understands his responsibilitiesfrom previous supervisor during shift change.
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Total Section Wise Man power Management system:
Micro Fibre Group has sufficient number of skilled manpower working in different sections.A picture of manpower distribution with total manpower is given below:
Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O:
The main job as well as main responsibility of a s.p.o is to control process. Theresponsibility of a s.p.o/p.o is to complete a batch in required time. Any fault or disturbancehappens in a batch, the blame goes to s.p.o/p.o. The p.o should try to minimize overheadexpenditures and also try to make a batch more profitable. In a word he is in charge of thefloor & his responsibility is to keep moving the production smoothly.
Job description of S.P.O/P.O
1. To give program slip according to daily production plan.2. To follow up production process from raw materials to finished goods.3. To match shade in connection with fabric quality according to buyer
requirements.4. To find out fabric faults as early as possible (before finishing), & take stes to
recover it.5. To rectify the finished fabric rejected from quality control department.6. To coordinate with unit technical manager for achieving the target production.
DEPARTMENT MANPOWER
Knitting 445
Dyeing 560
Printing 138
Finishing 315
Garments 3587
Maintenance 40
Administration 23
Utility 20
Security 28
Total 5136
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7. To motivate supervisors and workers for achieving maximum production withminimum faults.
8. To check the daily production report.9. To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacturer & apply them
Correctly to the production to get best product.
Remarks
The manpower management system in Micro Fiber Group is well arranged.There are good number of textile engineers in the industry. but they are not adequate enoughto undertake the huge production of the industry. Some more are expected to be enrolledthere in the shortest possible time to meet up the growing need. The efficiency of the workershould be increased for more quality production.
CHAPTER -03
RAW MATERIALS
Micro Fiber Ltd. is a knit composite industry. In the industry raw materials fordifferent section is different. As for example knitting uses yarn as raw material, Fabricprocessing department uses the knit fabrics, dyes and chemicals.
Types of Raw Materials:Different type of raw materials are found like1. Yarn2. Grey Fabric3. Dyes4. Chemicals
Order is usually obtain in the form of making complete garments grey fabric or yarn dyeingthat is main raw material is fabric & yarn. Fabric is made in its own knitting section fromdifferent types of yarn according to requirement, but sometimes buyer may supplies this.
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Yarn:Following types of yarns are used to knit fabrics:
1. Cotton — 30 s/1, 80/2, 20/1, 60/2,34s/l, 26/1, 20/1, 18/1,24/1 (Carded or combed.)
2. Filament —20/D, 24/D, 30/D, 40/D,75/D, 100/D, 150/D.3. Polyester spun — 50/2 Ne, 20/2 Ne.4. T/C —+30/1, T/C.5. Viscose —26/1.6. CVC (varying proportion)
The count mentioned above was found during mill training.
Sources:Yarn is collected from the fo1lowing sources:
1. Shohagpur spinning mills2. Delta spinning3. Israk spinning mills4. Delsy spinning mills5. Techno spinning mills6. Jamuna spinning mills7. Malek spinning mills8. Kader spinning mills
Price: Not provided.Grey Fabrics: Following types of grey fabrics are dyed:
1.Single jersey:- Single and double lacoste- Polo pique- Terry fleece- Engineering stripe
2. Single jersey with Lycra3. Double jersey:
- Rib- Interlock
4. Double jersey with Lycra
5. Flat bed :-Single Collar and Cuff-Design Collar and cuff
Sources:The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. The required fabrics are supplied
from Micro Fiber Ltd.
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Price:Price of grey fabrics depends upon the price of yarn and the making charge of the fabric.
For example, in case of 30’s spun cotton yarn, the price of yarn is $3/kg and for single jerseyfabric the knitting charge is $0.18. So the price of single jersey fabric is $3.18/kg.
Chemicals:
CHEMICALNAME
TRADE NAME CHEMICALNAME
TRADE NAME
Opticalbrightening
Bluton –BVB Anticreasing agent CAN
Wetting agent SCF Leveling agent CL-225
Fixing agent SR Softener FS
Peroxide killer OEM Antifoaming agent SF
Leveling agent RLF-349 Anticreasing agent CBA
Sequestering agent SQ-117 Antifixing agent TPA
Softener WCS Softener EAS
Sequestering agent 2UD Soap AW-501
Alkali RH Sequestering agent SQ-114
Acetic acid G.acid Brightening agent SQS
Silicon PE-40 Wetting agent MC
Opticalbrightening
ER330 Enzyme MKL
Flame retardant WRN Opticalbrightening
BBU
Dust remover Flock BM Sequestering agent InSA
Fixing agent SR Opticalbrightening
BUBZAM
Commonly used dyes in fabric dyeing section in Micro fibre Ltd
For light color: RR dyesi. Yellow RR
ii. Red RR
iii. Blue RR
Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:Water – H2O
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Hydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid –H2SO4
Phosphoric acid – H3PO4
Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaClSodium carbonate – Na2CO3
Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4
Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3
Sodium hydroxide - NaOHPotassium hydroxide - KOHSulfur dioxide – SO2
Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4
Benzene – C6H6
Acetic acid - CH3COOHOxalic acid - (COOH)2
Cellulose – C6H10O5
Starch - C6H10O5
Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4
Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl
Printing chemicals function:The functions of chemical used in printing process are given below
Urea: Hydroscoping agent, by using urea the steaming is finished within 5 to10hours.
Resist salt: NaCl is penetrated by heating but resist salt is penetrated into fabricwithout heating.
Na2CO3: Fixing the dyes molecules properly. Thickener: Thickener helps the past or chemical to be not sprayed on the fabric or
not to be bleeding.
Increased paste viscosity. Reduce screen pore radius.
Price:Price of dyes & chemicals depend on the quality, type availability & requirement. For
high quality product, better dye & chemical should be used though cost is high.
Annual requirement:Annual requirement of dyes & chemical depend on the order of production but for various
reasons such as improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis of dyes, unevenprocess control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improper storage facilities &for different unwanted expenditure increases dyes & chemicals requirement.
Remarks:
For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very essential.As far as we saw the raw material control of MFG is good.
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CHAPTER-4
Knitting Section
The process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of yarns iscalled knitting.
Warp knitting Weft knitting
When fabric is produced by this method in weft direction then its called weft knitting & warpdirection then its called warp knitting.
Production Flow Chart of Knitting Section:
Sample fabric
Design analysis
Machine selection
Setting the machine for the specific design
Sample Knitting
Sample approval
Bulk Production
Grey fabric inspection
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Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries :
A = Office of A.G.M (Knitting)
B = Office of Production Officer
D
L
G F
E
M
IA
J
J
S
E W
N
K
H
C
B
I
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C = Cloth inspection machine
D = Re-conning machine
E = Supervisor office & Knit Admin
F = Flat bed knitting section
G = Spare Cylinder room
H = Stair
I = Lift
J = Store of Spare parts & equipments
K = Fitter / Staff office
L = Toilet
M = Auto stripe Machine Section
= Circular Knitting Machine (Single & Double Jersey)
= Eyes marking or Floor marking
Total Floor space of the knitting floor = 20,338.93 Sq.ft (approximately)
In Micro Fibre Group the total number of knitting machine is 83 ( where Single jerseycircular knitting machine is 47, Double jersey circular knitting machine is 14, Auto Stripecircular knitting machine is 5, And Flat Bed knitting machine is 17, total 83). But there hasanother knitting floor where other knitting machines are positioned.
The space of 14862.19 Sq.ft for Circular knitting machines which are assembles in previouspage.And in this lay out plan 40 No’s of Circular knitting machine are situated.
One circular knitting machine with creel stand which required 262.44 sq.ft So, the number of40 knitting machines required space is, = 262.44 sq.ft × 40 = 10497.6 Sq.ft
The totally free space is = 14862.19 Sq.ft - 10497.6 Sq.ft = 4364.59 Sq. ft
List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :
Serial No Machine BrandName
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGauge
M/CFeeder
Origin
01 Jiunn Long S/J 22 24 66 F Taiwan
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List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :
02 Jiunn Long S/J 22 24 66 F Taiwan
03 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan
04 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan
05 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan
06 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan
07 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
08 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
09 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
10 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
11 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
12 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
13 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
14 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
15 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan
16 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan
17 Jiunn Long S/J 32 24 96 F Taiwan
18 Jiunn Long S/J 34 24 102 F Taiwan
19 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
20 Jiunn Long S/J 34 24 102 F Taiwan
21 Jiunn Long S/J 40 24 120 F Taiwan
22 Jiunn Long S/J 38 24 114 F Taiwan
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGauge
M/CFeeder
Origin
23 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
24 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan
25 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan
26 Jiunn Long S/J 21 24 63 F Taiwan
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List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :
27 Jiunn Long S/J 20 24 60 F Taiwan
28 Jiunn Long S/J 32 24 96 F Taiwan
29 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
30 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan
31 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
32 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
33 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
34 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
35 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
36 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
37 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
38 Jiunn Long S/J 40 24 120 F Taiwan
39 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
40 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
41 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
42 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
43 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
44 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
45 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
46 Fukuhama S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
47 Fukuhama S/J 31 22 72 F Taiwan
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
Fabrictype
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGaug
e
M/CFeeder
Origin
01 Falmac Interlock
D/J 24 16 38 F Singapore
02 Falmac Rib D/J 34 16 54 F Singapore
03 Falmac Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Singapore
04 Falmac Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Singapore
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List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries :
List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries :
05 Hubter Rib D/J 38 18 80 F Taiwan
06 Hubter Rib D/J 40 18 84 F Taiwan
07 Hubter Rib D/J 20 16 32 F Taiwan
08 Hubter Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Taiwan
09 Fukahama Interlock
D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan
10 Fukahama Interlock
D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan
11 Fukahama Rib D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan
12 Fukahama Rib D/J 34 18 72 F Taiwan
13 Fukahama Rib D/J 34 18 102 F Taiwan
14 Fukahama Interlock
D/J 28 20 84 F Taiwan
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGauge
M/CFeeder
Origin
01 Fukuhara S/J 30 24 48 Japan
02 Fukuhara S/J 30 24 48 Japan
03 Fukuhara S/J 34 24 48 Japan
04 Fukuhara S/J 34 24 48 Japan
05 Fukuhara Rib/Interlock
36 18 48 Japan
Serial
MachineName
M/C Type M/CBed
M/CGauge
M/CCares
Origin
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List of Cloth Inspection Machineries :
SerialNo
Machine Name Nos Brand Origin
01 Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 02 Sets UZU® Thailand
No Length
01 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
02 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
03 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
04 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
05 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
06 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
07 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
86 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
08 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
09 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
10 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
11 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
12 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
13 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
14 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
15 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
16 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
17 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
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Machine Picture
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE
JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.
TAIWAN.
Specification:
Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30"Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 GNeedles: 2256 T
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE
JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.
TAIWAN.
Specification:
Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30"Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 GNeedles: 2256 T
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE
FUKAHAMA MACHINERY CO. LTD.
YUANHSIEN, TAIWAN.
Specification:
Model: SH-JFA3 Cyl. Dia: 34"
Feeders: 102 F Gauge: 24 G
Mfg. Date: Sep. 2010
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FUKUHARA STRIPER MACHING
PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS,LTD.
JAPAN.
Specification:
Gauge: 20/24 Feeders: 192 F
Size: 34"
Mfg. Date: March.2007
COMPUTERIZED FLAT KNITTING
MACHINE
AROUND STAR INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD.
TAIWAN.
Specification:
Bed Length: 40"
Gauge: 14 G
Mfg. Date: 2008
UZU® FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE
AATPR INDUSTRY CO. LTD.
THAILAND.
Mfg. Date: April-2007
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Description of production process:Micro Fiber Ltd. Is capable of producing stripes of any width and enormous color.
The engineering stripes machines are used for producing such fabrics. Except this feederstripes are also produced. Single jersey fabrics and its derivatives like lacost, polo pique, terryfleece etc. are also produced. Rib and interlock fabrics and its derivatives such as 2x2, 3x3etc. are also produced. Different fabrics can be produced by jacquard m/c by varying thetucking lengths and looping sequence.Collar and cuffs of any designs are produced here inthe flat bed m/cs. The jacquard design can be computerized and transferred to the knittingm/c by floppy disks. The yarn that used in the body fabric is also used in producing collar andcuff.
GSM:It is the critical parameter that is checked and controlled at different staged of
processing the fabric after knitting to finishing. Fabric GSM can be controlled by thefollowing ways:
By varying the loop length by VDQ pulley.By varying the no. of loops by needle gauge setting.
By using different count of yarn.
The yarn count, in all cases, has prescribed by the buyers. So m/c setting is the only wayto control the grey GSM. The final GSM in the finished fabric depend on the finishingtreatments and parameters of finishing machineries.
Fabric width:Fabric width can be controlled by changing cylinder diameter or by changing m/c.
RPM:M/c rpm is adjusted with the lead time for production. When lead time is very short then
rpm may increase at a certain level for definite count and strength of yarn. So it also dependson the yarn parameter and also with structure to be produced.
Loop length:Loop length determines the fabric GSM. It can be controlled by changing the dia of
VDQ pulley In Mayer & CIE m/c , it can be controlled digitally.
No. of feeder or no. of cone:It depends on the urgency of production, available cone packages, color to be knit and
structure of the fabric.
Gauge:
Needle gauge determines the no. of loops in a course which determines the GSM offabric.
Production calculation:1. Production = no. of needle x no of feeder x RPM x stitch length/ yarn count
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Production per shift in KG at 100% efficiency
RPM x no of feeder x no of needle x stitch length(mm) x 60 x 12=
10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840 x 2.2046 x yarn countKs X 590.5
2. Stitch length =Count (Ne) x GSM
Where,
Ks = knitting constant
Count = linear density of yarn
GSM = gm per square meter
Another formulae is
Stitch length = (Tex × Ks) / GSM
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks iscalculated and estimated as below:
Ks = (GSM x Stitch length) / Tex
Fabric type Color Value of Ks
Single jersey Average 19.55
Single lacoste Average 22.4
Double lacoste Average 22.75
Polo pique Average 25
Plain interlock Average 39.3
1 X 1 rib Light 24.5
1 X 1 rib Average 26.5
3. Production/shift in meter:
100/1260.
/.min/
cmCourseEfficiencyFeederofNoRPM
cmCourseCourse
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4. Fabric width in meter:
Fabric type Yarncount
Stitchlength
Color D X G Finisheddia
FinishedGSM
Plain s/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26X24 30 inch 220-230
20s/1 2.98 White 30X24 33.5 inch 200-21024 s/1 2.68 White 30X24 32 inch 175-18526s/1 2.66 White 30X24 31 inch 160-17028s/1 2.70 Avg 26X24 25 inch 150-16030s/1 2.68 Avg 30X24 30 inch 130-14034s/1 2.40 Avg 26X24 24 inch 125-13540s/1 2.44 Avg 24X24 20 inch 100-110
1x1 Rib 26s/1 2.50 Avg 40X18 41 inch 24024s/1 2.75 Avg 30X18 64 inch 23526s/1 2.45 Avg 40X18 40inch 24526s/1 2.55 Avg 40X18 47inch 23526s/1 2.65 Avg 32X18 32inch 23036s/1 2.65 Avg 32X18 33inch 17024s/1 2.95 Avg 34X18 32inch 22024s/1 2.90 Avg 40X18 38inch 22528s/1 2.40 Avg 30X24 38.5inch 232
2X1 L Rib 34s/1 2.60 Avg 40X18 23inch 19034s/1 2.70 Avg 32X18 20inch 18540s/1 2.76 Avg 30X20 35”T 16028s/1 2.87 Avg 34X18 32”T 26026s/1 3.25 Avg 34X18 31”T 20524s/1 3.50 Avg 34X18 31.5”T 28520s/1 3.25 Avg 34X20 55”(op) 260
2X2 L/Rib 20/1+40D 3.10 Avg 30X18 18”T 39024/1+40D 2.90 Avg 30X18 18”T 32030/1+70D 2.90 Avg 30X18 18”T 32030/1+40D 2.98 Avg 26X18 18”T 24030/1+40D 2.80 Avg 26X18 18”T 240
Single lacost 18s/1 3.00 Avg 30X24 46 inch 245-25524s/1 2.64 Avg 30X24 40 inch 210-21526s/1 2.60 Avg 30X24 36inch 200-21030s/1 2.50 Avg 30X24 33inch 180-190
100/.
100/.
cmWalesknittingNeedlesofnoTotal
cmWaleswalesofnoTotal
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Following Counts are used to achieve the mentioned G.S.M:
Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length and finishedGSM:
By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data:
For Single jersey-
FINISHED GSM COUNT FINISHED DIA
140 30/1 Machine dia=Finished dia
160 26/1 Machine dia+1=Finisheddia
180 24/1 Machine dia+2=Finisheddia
200 20/1 Machine dia+3=Finisheddia
220 18/1 Machine dia+5=Finished
For S/J with Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count180-190 34s190-210 32s210-220 30s220-240 28s240-250 26s
For S/J without'Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110-120 40ѕ -36s
120-130 36s-32s
130-140 32s-28s
140-150 28s
150-160 26s
170-210 24s
For Rib without Lycra:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count180-190 36s-32s
190-200 30s200-210 28s210-220 26s
220-250 24s250-300 24s
For interlock without Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count200-220 34s220-230 32s230-250 30s250-300 26s
For Lacoste without Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180-190 30s
190-210 28s
210-230 26s
230-250 26s
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For 1X1 Rib
Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia150-200 30/1 18 Machine dia
210-220 28/1 18 Machine dia
220-230 26/1 18 Machine dia+1
240-250 24/1 18 Machine dia+1/2
280-300 20/1 18 Machine dia+2/3
For Plain Interlock-
Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia
200 40/1 24 Machine dia
180 40/1 24 Machine dia+1
220-230 34/1 24 Machine dia+2
240-250 30/1 24 Machine dia+2/3
If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than thenormal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing thefloating fibre and hairy fibre.
For light color, the finished GSM varies near about 15-20% from grey GSMFor average color, the finished GSM varies 20-25%For dark color, grey GSM is kept less (i.e. the stitch-length is large) because take up% of darkcolor is more and the weight of dyed fabric will be increased.
dia
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If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but alsoyarn tension & take up roller.
Grey fabric introducing:Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design on:
i) Cam arrangement changing.ii) Needle butt setting & needle dropping.iii) Using of different colors in selected feeder.iv) Using of jacquard mechanism.v) Size of the loop shape
Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement & Needle Repeat Of Some Knitted Fabric:
FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST
Stitch Notation:
Fig. Looping diagram
Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
ii) Using three truck cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
1
2
1
2
3
= Knit stitch
= Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
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FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOSTStitch Notation:
Fig. Looping diagram
Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
ii) Using three truck cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEYStitch Notation:
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
= Knit stitch
= Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
1
2
1
2
3
= Knit stitch
K = Knit cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
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Fig. Looping diagram
Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
Fig.- Cam arrangement
Fabric inspection :
Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by-
a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c.b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.
Grey fabric faults :
Following faults are found in the grey fabric:
Problem Reason Remedy
1. Hole Broken needle head Change the needle
2. Missing yarn Missing of one end of doubleyarn
Careful observation and instantstop when fault found
3. Needle line Bent needle latch Replace the needle
4. Thick & thinyarn
Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to amore uniform yarn cone
5. Slubs Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to amore uniform yarn cone
1
2
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Remarks :
The Lay out plan of the machineries is well Micro Fiber Ltd. arranged. Thereare good number of textile machineries in the industry. They are adequate enough to take thehuge production of the industry. The efficiency of the worker should be increased for morequality production.
Chapter-05
Wet processing SectionFabric Dyeing Section:
Production flow chart for fabric Dyeing:
Grey fabric inspection
Batching
Pretreatment
Dyeing
Dewatering
Dewatering (Tube form) Dewatering(Open form)
6. Drop needle Needle fail to receive the yarnwhile knitting, needle missing
Reset the needle
7. Barriemark/patta
Irregular tension of take downroller
Adjust the take down tension orsynchronize the take downspeed with knitting
8. Pin hole Due to missing stiches or loop Concentrate on needle andlatch
9. Oil line Improper lubrication Proper lubrication
10. Fly contact Fly coming fro the adjacent m/c Separate one m/c from others
11. Oil stain Dirty m/c and improper handlingof fabric
Proper lubrication and cleanm/c
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Tension less dryer Slitting
Calendaring Stentering
Compacting Inspection
Inspection Packing
Packing Delivery
Delivery
Process sequence:
For Cotton Dyeing:
Pretreatment
Enzyme (anti pilling)
Dyeing
Soaping
Softening
Pretreatment:Two types of pretreatment are done in Micro Fibre Ltd.
1. Scouring-Bleaching2. Bio-Scouring (Bio polishing/ Enzyme treatment)
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Scouring-Bleaching:Pretreatment program: (scouring ,bleaching and enzyme)
Light color: M:L=1:10Fill water
Fabric load
SCF (0.25g/l)+2UD (0.25g/l)ACN+CBA (0.25+0.25g/l) ( Dosing 10mins)
Temp=60oc and run=20min
Drain
Fill water
SCF+InSA(0.65+0.65g/l) +ACN+CBA (1.25+1.25g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp)
Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.8g/l)
Temp 70oc
Peroxide +stab (1.75+0.22g/l)
Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins
Cooling at 80oc
Drain
Fill water
Green acid( 0.5 g/l)
OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes
Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins
Drain
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Fill water
Hot wash (95oc X 10mins)
Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8
Fill water
Fabric load
SCF (0.17g/l)ACN+CBA (0.425+0.425g/l) ( Dosing 10mins)
Temp=60oc and run=20min
Drain
Fill water
SCF+InSA(0.552+0.637g/l) +ACN+CBA (0.637+0.637g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp)
Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.70g/l)
Temp 70oc
Peroxide +stab (1.70+0.212g/l)
Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins
Cooling at 80oc
Drain
Fill water
Hot wash (95oc X 10mins)
Fill water
G. acid(0.697g/l) OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes
Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins
Drain
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Bio-Scouring:Process description of Bio-Scouring is same as normal pretreatment process. But in Bio-
Scouring process, we use only one auxiliary (MA-stab XLC), where in normal pretreatmentprocess ,we use more than one auxiliary.
Enzyme Treatment:
Process Description of ENZYME TREATMENT:
Light color: M:L=1:10 Or, Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8
Water fill
Green acid (0.4g/l)(Check PH)
MKL (0.3% owf)
Temp 55oc and Run 60mins
Drain
Ready for dyeing
Dyeing:Normaly for knit dyeing, there are many kinds of dyeing procedure such as Iso thermalprocess, Critical migration process, Exhaust method etc. In Micro Fibre they use Exhaustmethod for knit dyeing.
Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes:
Fabric treated with oxalic acid at 70°C for 20min
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Rinse for 5 min
pH is controlled at 4.0-4.2
Dyeing at 130°C temp for 40-50 min
Hot wash for 5 min
Reduction cleaning 80-90°C temp for 30 min
Neutralization/Hot wash
Softener at 60°C temp for 20 min
Drain the bath
Unload the fabric
Re-dyeing Process:
When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing machine for shade matchingis known as re-dyeing.Generally, re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper than the target shade. It may occur whenthe fabrics absorb one or two colors more or less. One re-dyeing process is described below.
- Drain the let off solution- Hot wash at 700-800C- Acid wash at 600-700C(600 for light shade & 700 for deep shade).- Soda ash washes at 900-1000C for 60mins to reduce the depth of shade.- Acid wash at 600C.- Addition to required dyestuffs.- Salt addition.- Soda ash addition.
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Other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations.
Stripping process:
Add water
Fabric load
TPA+G.ACID
Temp=90oC run=20min
Drain
Fill water
SCF+NaOH
Temp=98oC run=30min
Cooling at 80OC
Hydrose
Temp=98oC run=60min
Drain
Hot wash
Half scouring
Temp=98oC run=35-50min
Dyeing
After Treatment Of All Program:
For light color For Deep / Medium color
Recipe:
Antifixing agent (TPA)= 3.0g/l
A.Acid (G.Acid)= 3.0g/l
Wetting agent(SCF)= 0.2g/l
Hydrose= 4.0g/l
Caustic= 3.0g/l
Half scouring recipe:
SCF=0.26g/l
InSA=0.6g/l
ACN+CBA= 0.26+0.26g/l
Stab= 0.088g/l
Caustic= 0.72g/l
50% H2O2=0.7g/l
G.acid= 1.0g/l
OEM=0.12g/l
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C Neutralizer=0.425g/lTemp=60c-65c Run=20min
Hot Wash(AW-501=0.17g/l) Temp=60-65c Run=20
Temp=80c-90c
FS(10% Solution)=3-4g/lTemp=50Oc-For light colorTemp=60Oc –For deep color
PH=4.0-4.5 Fixing agent =0.425g/lRun =20min
Hot Wash
C Neutralizer=0.425g/l-0.552g/lTemp=60c-65c Run=20min
Hot Wash 90Oc-run 10min
(AW-501=0.255-0.425g/)
Fixing agent =0.425g/lTemp=50oc-60oc Run=20min
PH=5.0-5.5
FS(10%solution)=3-4g/lTemp=60oc run=20min
PH=4.0-4.5Temp=50c-60c Run=20min
After dyeing for neutralization:
For white(withoutenzyme)
For white(withenzyme)
Forlight color
Formedium color
Fordeep color
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A.Acid=1.5g/lTemp 65ocRun=20min
PH=4.5-4.8(By usingA.Acid)Temp 55ocRun=60min
C.Neutralizer=0.425g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min
C.Neutralizer=0.425-0.552g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min
C.Neutralizer=0.552g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min
For fixing:
For medium color For deep color
SR=0.425-0.85g/lTemp 50-60ocRun=20minPH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu)
SR=1.275-1.7g/lTemp 50-60ocRun=20minPH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu)
Softener solution(10% solution):
For white For light color For medium/deep color
WCS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 60ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingA.Acid)
FS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 50ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingC.neu)
FS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 60ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingC.neu)
Common textile auxlliaries used in dyeing:
Acid - The chemical compounds that dissolve in water and provide H+(proton). It changesthe color of litmas paper from blue to red.Strong acids - completely ionized in water;For example: HClO4, Hl, HBr, HCl, HNOs, H2SO4, H3PO4Weak acids - partial ionized in water;For example: HF, H2S, HCN, HC2H3O2 and most organic acids.
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Alkalis - The chemicaL compound that dissolve in water and provide 0H- . It changes thecolor of litmas paper from red to blue.Strong alkalis - completely ionized in water;For example: NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2 most metallic hydroxidesWeak alkalis - partial ionized in water;For example: NH4OH and most organic alkalis
Buffer - lt is a saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. lt resists the change of pHon addition of acid or alkali. Usually it is used to control the any bath solution. Buffersolutions are solutions containing mixtures of a weak acid or base and a salt of that acid orbase. For exampre, the mixture of aceticacid and sodium acetate, which dissociates as:CH3COOH CH3COO - + H+
CH3COONa CHs COO - + Na+
Oxidizing agent - The chemical compound which provide oxygen during chemical reactionand converting to oxide, They gain electrons in a redox chemical reaction, for example, O3,H2O2, Ca0Cl2.
Reducing agent - The chemical compound which losses electron during chemical reaction.lt reduces other substances chemically, especially by donating an electron or electrons, forexample, Hydrose (Na2S2O4), Rongalite C.
Surfactants - Surfactants or surface-active agents act in solid-liquid, solid-gas, or liquid-gasinterfaces and reduces the interfacial tension. ln textile wet processing it works in betweensolid-liquid interface and reduce the surface tension of liquid. lt has a versatile application intextile industries especially in textile coloration, for example, Wetting agent, Detergent,Lubricant, Foaming agent, Anti-foaming agent, Leveling agent, Dispersing agent.
Wetting agent - lt accelerates the wetability of material in solution; thus helps to easypenetration of chemicals into substrate. Usually it is used in scouring, bleaching and dyeingprocesses. lt is available in market in form of clear or yellowish liquid.
Detergent - Detergents are one kind of surface active agents but the reverse is not alwaystrue. The surfactants which have detergency power and the number of carbon in aliphaticchain are not less than 9. Usually it is used in textile to clean the materials by removingundesirable substances. These products are either soaps or synthetic detergents.
Lubricant - The chemical compounds use to prevent contact between solid surfaces inrelative motion in order to reduce friction, wear, overheating, and rusting. They are very goodcoolants, provide the appropriate range of viscosities, and are thermally stable.
Anti-foaming agent - Anti-foaming agents are another type of surfactants which are able toprevent or reduce foam. Usually, anti-foaming agents are used in dyeing bath and in printingpaste to hinder foam generation. Excess foam generation can create adverse effect inprocessing and product.
Anti-creasing agent - Usually used in dye bath or in finishing stage to prevent creasing offabric or garments.
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Anti-pilling agent - Some man-made and blended fibre fabrics can easily form pills in theirsurface. Thus it reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric or garment. Anti-pilling agents areused to prevent such kind of pills formation during wearing of cloth.
Leveling agent - Leveling agent is used in textile coloration process to achieve uniformdyeing over the whole substrate by controlling the rate of dyeing. Generally it is a non-ionicsurfactants type compound either fibre substantive or dye substantive. lt is available in marketin liquid form.
Dispersing agent - usually it is used in disperse and vat dyeing process helps to distributethe dye molecules in dye bath. it is also help to penetrate the dye molecules into the substrate.lt is available in market in powder form.
Retarding agent - The chemical compound that are able to retard or control the dye uptakeinside of the fibre .Using retarders is very common in acrylic dyeingwith cationic dyes.
Carrier - Carriers are relatively small organic substances that usually have affinity forpolyester. lt acts as a catalyst to accelerate the dye penetration into the fibe in disperse dyeingprocess.
Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:Water – H2OHydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid –H2SO4Phosphoric acid – H3PO4Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaClSodium carbonate – Na2CO3Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3Sodium hydroxide - NaOHPotassium hydroxide - KOHSulfur dioxide – SO2Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4Benzene – C6H6Acetic acid - CH3COOHOxalic acid - (COOH)2Cellulose – C6H10O5Starch - C6H10O5Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl
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Problems Encountered In Dyeing:Uneven Dyeing
1. It can be caused due to rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. For this purpose thedosing of soda ash should be maintained properly.2. Pressure difference.3. Over loading in the m/c.4. Yarn lot mixing.5. Improper control of temperature.6. Less amount of leveling agent.7. Improper pretreatment.
Uneven Shade in Rope to Rope1. Improper rope length in each chamber.2. Improper fabric flow speed in each nozzle.
Off Shade1. Improper M: L ratio.2. Lower amount of auxiliaries.3. Improper mixing of dyestuffs.
Dye SpotsThis is most common fault caused by operator not correctly mixing and thoroughly
dissolving dyestuffs in the right amount of water.Batch to Batch Shade Variation
If any of parameters of dyeing are changed then it will produce problems in batch tobatch consistency. In order to avoid this defect the following steps should be followed-
1. Maintain the same liquor ratio.2.Check that the fabric has the same dye affinity.3. Use the same standard program procedures for each batch.
4. Making sure that the operators add the right bach of chemicals at the same time &temperature in the process.
5. Check the water supply daily especially ph, hardness & Na2CO3 content.Crease MarkCrease marks are produced due to the lower concentration of anti creasing agent andimproper cooling rate (defective cooling gradient). This is encountered by increasing theconcentration of anti creasing agent and proper adjustment of cooling rate.Running Marks
Running marks are frequently related to the material construction and are caused bypoor opening of the fabric rope.
1. Reducing the machine load and running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure, orusing the next largest available nozzle size, may also help.
2. Either pre setting or pre relaxation of the fabric before dyeing can avoid thisproblem.
3. Running and crack marks can also be a result of incorrect process procedures. Ahigher fabric speed, combined with slower rates of rinse and cooling will often correct theproblem.
4. Care should be taken to check that bath draining temperatures are not very highespecially viscose blends are involved.
5. Shock cooling of static material will also cause crack marks.
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Intensive FoamingIn case of intensive foaming, which is caused when, the pumps try to pump a mixture
of air and water. This resets in the loss of nozzle pressure & floating of flake. If thefoaming is severe it is better to drop the bath & restart the process, after adding an antifoaming agent to the new bath.
Remarks:The production process, followed by the Dye-house of Micro fibre group is
impressive. The processes are being carried out very quickly and accurately. Due to theexcellence of process, machineries and lab trials very few cases of re-dyeing is performed
PrintingPrinting involves localized coloration. This is usually achieved by applying thickened pastescontaining dyes or pigments onto a fabric surface according to a given colour design. Inparticular, the viscosity of a print paste is critical. It determines the volume of pastetransferred to the fabric and the degree to which it spreads on and into the surface yarns. Thepaste must colour all the visible fibres on the printed surface, so it must penetrate somewhatinto the yarn structure. If the paste is too ‘thin’, it will spread, giving poor print definition,and penetrate too far into the yarns decreasing the colour yield.
The rapid development of CAD computer systems for print design has had a significantimpact on this activity. The development of digitised textile printing using, for example, inkjet printers is well underway. Such computer assisted manufacturing will considerablyinfluence the textile printing industry in the near future. Its other preoccupation, as for thedyeing industry in general, is that of reducing the amounts of biodegradable and potentiallyharmful chemicals in the effluent leaving the works so that its environmental impact islimited.Sample Preparation
After getting work order from product development dept.
Prepare design according to outwork
Screen preparation
Sample preparation
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Approved Sample
Bulk production
Bulk Production:Screen Preparation
Print Paste preparation
Printing is done on the mc or manually
Drying
Curing
Final Inspection
Available Printing Style in Micro Fibre LTDIn Micro fibre ltd 3 types of printing style are available. Which’s are Pigment printing,Discharge Printing, Reactive Printing. There are also Titanium printing, Glitter printing andKhari Printing. Mostly pigment printing is available there. Discharge printing is used fordyed fabric print and Reactive Printing is used for sharp and accurate design. Print pasterecipe is given below as per Micro Fibre Group.
Types of Printing in Micro Fibre Group:1. Reactive printing2. discharge printing3. pigment printing
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Reactive printing:
Print steam(102oc) washing finishing(stenter) compacting Delivery
Discharge printing:
Print steam(102oc) curing(155-160oc) washing finishing(stenter)
Delivery compacting
Pigment printing:
Print curing(155-160oc) finishing(stenter) compacting Delivery
Print curing(155-160oc) washing finishing(stenter) compacting Delivery
Recipe of Pigment paste: Binder: 10.00% Hi soft: 00.50% Glycerin: 01.00% Liquor Ammonia: 01.00% Thickener(Lotacgol hit): 05.00% Color: Required amount to match the color
Recipe of Discharge paste: Binder: 20.00% Urea: 10.00% Disgrason DS: 10.00% Discharge gum: 03.00% Glycerin: 01.00% Antifoaming agent: 00.10% Color: Required amount to match the color
Recipe of reactive Paste: Sodium Alginate: 04.40% Sodium Bi-carbonate: 04.50% H. agent: 10.00% Ludigal: 01.20% Kerosene(Fixing agent): 00.90% NB: 03.00% SF: 00.20% Color: Required amount to match the color
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Pollutants during printing process:Drying and fixing are another important emission source in printing processes. The followingpollutants may be encountered in the exhaust air [179, UBA, 2001]:
aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10-C20) from binders monomers such as acrylates, vinylacetates, styrene, acrylonitrile, acrylamide,
butadiene methanol from fixation agents other alcohols, esters, polyglycols from emulsifiers formaldehyde from fixation agents ammonia (from urea decomposition and from ammonia present, for example,
in pigment printing pastes) N-methylpyrrolidone from emulsifiers phosphoric acid esters phenylcyclohexene from thickeners and binders.
Finishing sectionTextile finishing , in a restricted sense , is the term used for a series of processes towhich all bleached , dyed , printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before theyare put on the market . In fact , finishing includes the final treatment of every kind offabric made from every kind of fiber .
Objective of finishing:- Improving the appearance – Lustre , whiteness , etc .- Improving the feel , which depends on the handle of the material and its
softness , suppleness , fullness , etc .- Wearing qualities , non – soiling , anticrease , antishrink , comfort , etc .- Special properties required for particular uses – water – proofing , flame –
proofing , etc. .- Covering of the faults in the original cloth.- Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing: Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.2) Application of the handle modifying products / additives.3) Mechanical finishing: Mechanical treatment with machines. Finishing effects Easy – care Crease recovery. Dimensional stability. Good abrasion resistance. Improved tear strength. Good sewability
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Dyed Fabric from Dyeing Department
Shade check
Dewatering
Slitting
Stentering/Dryer
Open compactor
Final Inspection
Packing
Delivery
Drying
Calendering & compactor
Final Inspaction
Packing
Delivery
Dewatering
Tubular formOpen with
Soft or stiff handle. Shine or luster
After dyeing knit fabric is required to finish. During eyeing all knit fabric are dyed intubular form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in open formor tubular form.
Flow chart of final process (knit fabric)
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Finishing section is Divided into two section, they are:
-Open line
-Tube line
The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow:1. Slitting m/c
2. De-watering m/c
3. Stenter
5. Compactor
The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:1. De-watering m/c
2. Dryer
3. Calendering & Stentering
Dewatering and Slitting unit
Machine Specification:Machine name: Dewatering / Detwisting,
Manufacturer: Ruckh Calator,
Origin: Sweden
Production capacity: 10 M. Ton / Day
Quantity: 01
Machine name: Open Width De-watering + Slitting, BIANCO, ITALY
Manufacturer: BIANCO,
Origin: ITALY
Serial Number: M03066-016261
Construction year: 2003
Max speed: 90m/min
Production capacity: 10 M. Ton / Day
Quantity: 02
After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de-watering . This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing.This is the main function of the de-watering machine.
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Feature:
Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
Delivered fabric is crease free state
Before squeezing ballon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by anozzle
It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feedingmechanism
To impart soft finish to the fabric
To open the fabric from tubular form to open width form
Fabric is cut according to the needle mark.
During slitting: Controlling point
S/J :50m/min to 60m/min
Rib, interlock : 80m/min
Max dia: 45inch
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During Dewatering: Controlling point
Maximum speed: 30-35 m/min
Pressure required for RIB 3-3.5Kg
Pressure required for Single jersy 2 Kg
Pressure required for Lycra 2.5-3 Kg
Chemical used:1. Softener (10g/l)2. Acetic acid (1g/l)
Power consumption:Voltage: 400VFrequency: 50HzMaximum power: 24kwattManpower Required:
Worker: 02
Utilities:1. Electricity2. Processed air (to form the tube fabric into ballon with a view to
remove crease)
Control system:1. Overfeed control2. Pressure3. Speed control4. Width control
Squeezer Machine:
Object:1. Reduce water content.2. Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.
Chemical solution:10% solution of softener1% solution of soapFor S/J 1KG softner in 9liter water and 500gm soap in 5 liter water to make solution
For collar Sequetering agent 0.5gm/l, anticreasing agent 1gm/l
Control point:1st Squeeze roller pressure: 700-1000PSI or 5-7Bar
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2nd Squeeze Roller pressure: 500-700PSI or 3.5-5Bar
Hydro-extractor m/c
Object:1.Extract water content from fabric.
Dryer m/c :
Object: To dry the wet fabric
High Production Dryer:
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.Functions:
1. To dry the fabric with the help of steam2. To control the shrinkage3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process4. To dry fabric without tension
Main parts of the machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor4. Folder5. Exhaust fan
Heating system:1. Gas fired
Utility:1. Gas (to make fire)2. Electricity (to rum the machine)3. Compressed air (to spread the fire)
Setting according to fabric construction:Fabric type Speed m/min Temperature Over feed speed (%)Single jersey 15-17 140 20Interlock 20 – 22 140 25 – 30Rib 10 140 15 – 20T/C P/CViscose
20 – 23 130 40 – 45
Lacoste 30 140 40 – 45Collar 20 140 40 – 45Lycra 17 130 30 – 40
Checking parameters:
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Shade Check Width check Weight check Compaction check Edge check
Find out the limitations and faults of the machine and advise for removing these.i) Selvedge drying system is not properly functioning.ii) Maximum over feed of the machine is +60%.iii) When the steam temperature is 1000C-1200C, then delivered fabric temperature is
45-500C. But there is no cooling zone in this machine to reduce the excesstemperature. So a cooling zone in delivery zone can be attached.
Calendar M/C:
It is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers athigh temperatures and pressures.The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in water destroysit, as does wear with time.calendering, a finishing process by which paper, plastics, rubber, or textiles are pressed intosheets and smoothed, glazed, polished, or given a moiré or embossed surface. The material ispassed through a series of rollers; the resulting surface depends on the pressure exerted by therollers, on their temperature, composition, and surface designs, and on the type of coating orglaze previously applied to the material to be calendered.Export oriented fabrics are not gonein calendering process.Compacting fabrics are gone in calendering process.
Object of calendaring:
The fabric is run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smootherand more lustrous. High temperatures and pressure are used as well. Fabrics that gothrough the calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.
To improve attractiveness. To cause a closing threads together by flattening and thus tending to fill up the inter
stitches between warp and weft. To produce smooth and glossy luster appearance on the surface of fabric.
Width Compactor
During fabric formation processes, stresses often are introduced into a textile. Such stressescan be controlled by drying the finished fabric on a stenter frame, which controls the width ofthe fabric and the tension on the fabric during the drying process. A second method involvescompression the fabric structure, as in the Sanforizing process. In this process, the fabric andbacking blanket (rubber or wool) is fed between a feed roller and a curved braking shoe, withthe blanket being under some tension. The tension on the blanket is released after passing thefabric and blanket between the roller and braking shoe. The net result is compaction of thefabric being carried along in the sys· tem. Such a simple technique permits fabrication of thefabric of finished textile goods without fear of excessive shrinkage on laundering. Proteinhair fibers such as wool, and thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, can be compacted byfelting action.
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The scale structures on protein fibers entangle and stick on agitation, particularly in thepresence of moisture. The resulting "ratcheting" effect causes the fibers to compact and felt.Many processes for wool take advantage this effect, and nonwoven felt structures areproduced by this method. Compaction of thermoplastic structure occurs when the fibers areraised to near their softening point. At a sufficiently high temperature the fibers shrink andcontract, causing compaction of the textile structure.
After drying the fabric from stenter, it is passed through compactor to control shrinkage. Knitfabrics have higher tendency to shrink so its compaction is very important to maintain theminimum quality. ln compactor the fabric is steamed to regain moisture and the introducedto the competing rolls. Here the feed roll turns faster than the second roll. An endless belt isfed over rollers in such a way that the belt can be elongated at stretch; the fabric is introducedbetween the belt and a heated drum. After passing from the contact of the drum the belt canshrink and compress the fabric, thus the compactor control the fabric shrinkage.
Function:1. To compact the fabric2. To control the shrinkage3. To maintain proper width and G.S.M
Main parts of tube-tex machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,4. Folder5. Exhaust fan
Main Parts: (Lafer Compacting Machine)
Heat Padder: Control Motor Speed. Heat Chamber: Three.
1. Lower Padder2. Stenter3. Compactor
Main Power Blanket: For finishing Cloth. Guide Roller Clip: Straighten the fabric Wheel raising Steam Box: soften the fabric Load Cell: Keep the delivery Roller for perfect tension. Temperature: 1500C (Highest) Speed: 50 M/Min Overfeed % Up: More the Overfeed % Up More the GSM. Steam Pressure: Up to 10 Kg
In Tube-tex compactor m/c fabric spread range:
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Fabric dia (inch) Maximum spreading (inch)14” 17”16” 19”17” 20”19” 25”22.25” 28.25”26” 36.38”34.75” 47”45” 57”48.25” 60”
For different type of fabric speed and compaction (TUBE TEX):
Fabric Type Speed ( r.p.m ) Compaction
S/J 20 8-9 %Lycra S/J 25 7-10 %1*1 Rib 30 8 -11 %Single lacoste 30 10 -14 %2×2 Rib 30 -35 6-7 %
Double lacost 30 -35 12 %Pk. Fabric 30 10 -12 %
Interlock 30-35 9 – 12%
Tube-tex consists of five major parts and these are –
1. Shaper : It looks like a ladder which straightens the fabric and passingthrough the pulley.
Shaper
2. A pair of pulley : It controls the fabric width according to the buyer’srequirements .
Fabric3. Steam zone : It is given steam on the fabric surface for softness which helps in
compacting zone to compact the fabric .
Steam spray on fabric surface
+ +
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4.Compacting zone :
It consists of edge roller, retard roller, steel plates and compacting shoe . Fabric’s shrinkage ,finished G.S.M and dia permanent by compacting shoe & edge roller at 950c. Steel plateremove the crease mark on the fabric surface and retard roller smooth the upper portion ofthe fabric surface at 950c .
Steel plate Compacting shoeFa Fabric
Edge rollerRetard roller
Fabric deliverySteel plate
5. Folding zone : Here fabric folding fan moving to and foe movement and fold the fabricevenly .
Overfeed % Up Setup for Lafer compacting Machine:
Overfeed % Up for Lycra Single Jersey:60
Overfeed % Up for Single Jersey: 35/40.
Overfeed % Up for Lacost fabric :35/40
Overfeed % Up for Rib fabric :20/22
Overfeed % Up for CVC fabric:45
Utilities used: Electricity Steam Compressed air
Control Point :- Water pressure- Air pressure- Steam pressure
Checking parameters: Shade Check Width check Weight check Compaction check Edge line Checking Fault check
Stentering Machine
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Stenter is a very important and essential machine. stenter plays a big role to achieve thedesired width and GSM of the fabric and widely used for heat setting of fabrics containinglycra. Normally after dewatering most of the water is removed from the fabric but still acertain amount of water remains in the fabric. in stenter the remaining amount of water isremoved by passing the fabric through a sufficient number of heated chambers. Duringdrying in stenter the fabric attain its desired diameter and GSMPurpose of the m/c:
i) Dryingii) GSM control: If overfeed increases,then GSM increases and vice
versa.iii) Width control :The width is controlled by means of
Spreader,Expander.iv) Shrinkage controlv) Decrease spriralityvi) Decrease Bowing effectvii) Softener applicationviii) Surface coating for Teflon finishix) Soil release chemical finishx) Heat set for cotton lycra fabric
Main parts of the machine:
i) Feed zone- Centering device
ii) Chemical padding zone- Squeezing roller- Chemical tray
iii) Bowing control zone- Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)- Sensor (no of sensor -6)- Uncurling roller
iv) Chain entry zone- Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)- Sensor (both side of the chain entry)- Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller- Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entry
v) Drying zone- Gas rotamatic burner (10)
vi) Cooling zonevii) Delivery zoneviii) Relax R/rix) Padderx) Pin rollerxi) PLC profivassleeve converter.xii) Plaiter rollerxiii) Take up rollerxiv) Wheel
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Heating system: Gas Burner
Gripping system of fabric edges: pinning
Utilities used: Electricity Gas Steam
Controlling points: Fabric speed Fabric width Temperature Overfeed %
Checking parameters: Shade Check Width check Weight check Compaction check Fault check : Operator checks -
Knitting faults Spinning faults Dyeing faults Other faults
Chemical used during finishing:
For 250kg fabric:In 200ltr water 24kg FS(softener) 1.6kg EAS(silicon) 1.6kg PE40(silicon) 50gm acidic acid
For 500kg fabric: 36kg FS(softener) 2.4 kg EAS(silicon) 2.4kg PE40(silicon) 75gm acidic acid
For 1000kg fabric: 60kg FS(softener) 4 kg EAS(silicon) 4kg PE40(silicon) 130gm acidic acid
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Procedure for Heat set for Lycra s/j fabric:
GSM COLOR HEATSETTEMP
DELIVERYDIA
OVERFEED
SPEEDm/min
AFTERHEATSETGSM
LESSFROMREQUIREDGSM
240-230
White &light
190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 185 20-25
Average 190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 180 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 160 25
210-220
White &ligh
180OC +15% 40/18/25 20 165 20-25
Average 180OC +15% 40/18/25 20 160 20-25R/black 185OC +15% 30/15/20 20 140 25
190-200
White &ligh
185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 150 20-25
Average 185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 145 20-25R/black 185OC +15% 30/15/20 20 130 25
160-170
White &ligh
185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 130 20-25
Average 185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 125 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 120 25
150 White &ligh
190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25
Average 190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 100 25
Heat set for other fabrics:
Lycra French terry:Temp: 190OC(depth color), 185OC (light color)Over feed: 40/18/25GSM After heat set: 50-55 less
Lycra viscose:Temp: 195OCOver feed: 40/18/25Stretch: 40%Delivery dia: +32% to +37%Speed: 20m/min
Lycra rib:Temp: 195OC
Over feed: 40/18/25Stretch: 35%Speed: 30m/min
Rules for heat set fabric:1. Temp constant(give in heat set process)
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2. Speed always constant3. Over feed
A. For white & average colori. Standard: 40/18/25
ii. Minimum: 30/15/20iii. Maximum: 50/25/25
B. For black coloriv. Standard: 30/15/20v. Minimum: 20/12/18
vi. Maximum: 50/25/25
4. Stretch:i. Maximum: 35% to 40%
ii. Minimum: 18%
5. After heat set fabric dia (delivery)i. Maximum: given in heat set procedure
ii. Minimum: 14% of m/c dia
6. GSMi. White color: required GSM (less 50 to 55)
ii. Average color: required GSM (less 60 to 65)iii. Black color: required GSM (less 75 to 80)
Factor Consideration:
Shrinkage control:
-Shrinkage is controlled by proper over feeding.-To apply less or more over feed speed fabrics reduce along to length and increase along towidth. Maximum 70 – 75% shrinkage is controlled by using it.
GSM Control:
-GSM is also controlled by applying proper over feeding speed.-If over feed is more then GSM is also more.-If Over feed speed is less then GSM is also is less.-If Dia is more then GSM of the fabric will less.-If Dia is less then the GSM of the fabric will more.
N.B: If GSM of the fabric is OK then shrinkage is also OK.
Dia Control:-Dia is controlled by dia controlling meter scale.-If any fault, GSM of the fabric is reduced then to increase the GSM of the fabric dia willhave to be reduced (2 – 3) inch.-If Over feed speed is more then Dia of the fabric will be more.-If Over feed speed is less then Dia of the fabric will be less.-If length is more then width of the fabric is reduced.
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-If length is less then width of the fabric is more.
N.B: Fabric speed is controlled on the fabric dia. Here, Dia less or More fully depends onyarn count and buyer order. Dia is done less or more by using expander rod.
Fabric Dia(Increase)Single jersey 1.5 – 2 ) inch +.Rib fabric 2 – 2.5 inch +.Interlock 3 – 3.5 inch +.Pique 3 – 3.5 inch +.
Over feed:
-GSM Control.-Shrinkage Control.-Dia Control.Depends on Dia:
Fabric Over Feed Speed(m/min)Lycra 30 – 351×1 Rib 28 – 30Single jersey 26 – 272×2 Lycra rib 23 – 24Lacoste 23 – 24Normal over feed speed 22/23/24/25
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CHAPTER-6
Garments sectionIntroduction
Bangladesh is one of the leading readymade garments exporters of the world.Every year Bangladesh exports more than one third of the total garmentsrequirement of the RMG market of the world. Every year Bangladesh earnsmore than 76% of its foreign currency from this sector. That is way the study ofgarments technology does deserve well practical practice. So our universityprovides 6 weeks industrial training in a RMG factory. The industrialattachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude ofthe performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity andservices. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as wellas more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachmenthelps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skill nessabout various processing stages.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about productionmanagement, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing,utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. theabove mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoreticalknowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practicalknowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable tobe accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage andinspiration to take self responsibility. As a student of Garments ManufacturingTechnology we have got an opportunity to complete this training in MicroFibre Ltd. The vision the Garment Division is to become the preferred partnerfor sourcing high quality value added garments from Bangladesh.
Sample Section
Introduction:
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Sample section is the important section in Micro Fibre Ltd. Here all types of sampleare developed. Sometime developing section help to develop a new type of sample. Here theoperator and the managerial level are very much efficient than the other section. Here theoperator is selected according to their work efficiency and also the experience. Skilledoperator is allowed to work in this section. Because sample must has to be unique and thebest quality, out looking also be very good. Without a skilled setup this is impossible. It isseen that an operator can make a whole garment. In the floor level one operator always tohis/her job with one component all the time, for this to make that portion that operator needless time. But in sample section time required to make a garment, one operator need muchmore time than the floor level operator. This section must involve with the merchandisingsection. According to the buyer requirement on the basis of art work and the measurement listgiven by the buyer an operator can make a whole garment. If an operator cannot understandthe technical term in the technical sheet, he/ she must consult with the manager/asst.Manager/ co-coordinator. Here the sewing machine sequence is not maintained. As perrequirement operator can change the machine if that is available to use. There is a table forchecking the ready sample before it sends to the merchandising section.
Process Sequence:
The pieces of the garment supply from the pattern section
Pieces are sewn by the skilled operator.
Attach the button as required
Iron the garment
Send to the merchandiser
The Topic I was familiar with:
Types of machine.
Types of operation
Types of fabric
Measurement
Checking Procedure
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Types of print
Types of machine:
Rib Cutter For Neck Plain Machine Over Lock Machine Flat Bed Machine Cylinder Bed Machine Button Hole Machine Button Attaching Machine Steam Iron
Types of Fabric: Single jersey Single jersey lycra 11 Rib 22 Rib Verigated Rib Interlock Pique Polo
IE (Industrial Engineering)INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING:T he main function of this department is to re-engineering the garments from the samplingstage so that it would be production friendly for the production as well helps to increase theproductivity through machine layout, time and motion study.
In the sewn problems industries we must continually ensure that we remain competitive andprofitable whilst also striving to improve our personal and community's standard of living.Productivity improvements may be achieved through:Industrial Engineering Department: To follow up the production process Work process development SMV calculation and line target
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Efficiency control Time study Capacity study Workers training M/C sequence lay out Thread consumption Operator interview
Duties and Activities of a Work Study Officer: Style details collect SMV make Layout make Machine arrange Attend P.P meeting First week production plan Line feeding Work aid arrange Method study and take video and record Time study Line capacity find out Bottle neck operation find out Individully follow up bottle neck operation and try to increase production Capacity and efficiency wise target setting and try to achiving Line balancing Motivation the worker Maximum time stay in production line and try to solve any kinds of production
related problem Monitoring the production achievement hourly and daily Loss time record Overally,try to increases the productivity.
All work study techniques are classified into two main groups the specimenbellows by typical:
METHODSTUDY
↓ Layout Work flow Machinery Standardize method Capital investment appraisal Attachment Sewing method specification
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WORKMEASUREMENT
↓ Hourly targets Production checks Line balancing Training curves Maintain payment systems Time standards
Line balancing:
Line balancing is the allocation of sewing m/c according to style and design of garments. Itdepends of that what type of garments we have produce.
Objectives of line balancing:
Regular mtl flow Maximum usage of man power and m/c capacity Minimum process times Minimizing workstations Maximum outputs at the desired timed Agreed quality maintenance of the garments
CAD SectionIntroduction:
In Echo Tex Ltd. Auto CAD (Computer Aided Design) is an important section. Hereall the consumption is done. With the measurement of the different parts of a garment by thehelp of CAD system software pattern & marker can cut or make. Here with the combinationof the parts of a garment efficient marker can make for cutting purpose. By creating gradingfrom one size different size can create by the software.
CAD System Software: Two systems are available
1. Lectra System, made in France
2. Garber System, made in USA
Machines in CAD section:
Purpose Machine Name Quantity
Marker make Garber plotter (Width=72 inch) 1
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Process Sequence: CAD section
Pattern for a specific garmentor manually sketch the different parts in the computer
Keep those separately on digitizer board (for pattern)
With the help of sensor system input the actual measurement of those parts
Resize and give a shape for marker
Grading
Efficient format for making the marker
Make marker with the help of Lectra or Garber system
Efficiency Measure:
Formula: Total marker efficiency = Area of pattern in the marker plan 100%Total area of the marker plan
Efficiency (usually get)For Tank top - 75%For trouser - 78%For t shirt - 85%For polo shirt - 85%
N.B.: If a garment consist smaller parts then there efficiency is higher than the larger parts ofa garment.
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Cutting Section
Introduction:
Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garment industry. For a littlemistake full order may be cancelled. With the false measurement a big portion of garmentmay employed. With very care this section is handled.
In Echo Tex Ltd. there consists 9 cutting table. From the CAD section marker comesout. For stripe & verigated rib fabric there is no marker use because if use the marker forstripe fabric, frequently don’t match the stripe of one side to the other. This is a buyerrequirement to match the stripe. Manually the stripe fabric is spreader out on the cuttingtable. Only marker is used for the solid dyed fabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards& thickness of lay is 4 inch.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine:In Echo Tex Ltd. all the fabric is cut down with the Straight Knife Cutting Machine
by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp and change this on thebasis of fabric quantity & composition, normally in every after 4 days. Here, in the belowgive a short description on this machine:
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Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine(Km Cloth Cutting Machine)
Machine Parts :
Base plate Terminal Block Plug Crosshead Assay Clamp Washer Knife Clamp Stud Presser Foot Blade Sharpener Pulley S/Pulley – Right Pulley Spring On/Off Switch Lift Handle
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Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Machine name: K.M. Company cloth cutting Machine
Model : KM KS-AUV
Producer : Made By K.M. Cutting Machine Co, JAPAN
Price : US $189.00
Type : Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening.
Dimension : 8" W x 11" L x 24" H (weight 33.5Lb)
Current : A. C (3.3/2.6 amps)
Speed : 3000/ 3600
Fig: Main Motor Portion Fig: Blade Portion
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Short Note:
Machine power up, Motor run smooth and powerful. Blade moved as it should, Thesharpening mechanism came down. Machine is very well made, looks like a top of the lineproduct. Is has a very good appearance and seems to be working fine.
Advantages:
As it is comparatively cheaper, easy moveable and maximum lay height couldbe cut, used extensively in garment industries.
Could cut fabric at more curved line than the round knife.
Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay.
Quick fabric cutting.
Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay.
Grinding could be done during cutting.
Could be cut at any angle.
Disadvantages:
Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor.
Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection.
Possibility of accident is higher.
REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING
The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:
1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exactdimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methodsof cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cuttingaccuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness ofoperator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy.
2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, itshould be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are ofexact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.
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3. Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the bladeproduces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabriccontains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edgemay result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 2500C.Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover,the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritationduring use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the followingsteps may be taken:
1. Reduce the height of the lay;
2. Reduce the cutting speed;
3. Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;
4. Lubricate the knife during cutting.
4. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabriccutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure thatall the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.
In Micro Fibre Ltd. the sequence of the operation in Cutting Section is asfollows -
FLOW SEQUENCE OF CUTTING
Fabric inspection
Fabric send to store
Fabric received from store
Marker making
Fabric spreading
Setting marker on the fabric lay
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Fabric cutting
Numbering
Prepared the bundling card
Bundling
Quality inspection & front part- back part are fold together
Store
Fabric inspection
1. GSM Check
2. Dia Check
3. Fault Check
4. Point Calculation
5. Four point system calculation
6. Prepared fabric inspection report
7. Prepared weight sheet
8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet)
Fabric received from store
Marker making
Marker paper not used
Fabric spreading
Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size issame, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabricaccording to marker size.
Setting marker on the fabric lay
Spread down the marker paper over the fabric lay with gum tape.
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Fabric cutting
Fabric lay is cut ting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.
Numbering
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The stickernumber maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Prepared the bundling card
Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain
1. Program No2. Cutting No3. Size No4. Pies5. Roll No
Bundling
In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.
Quality inspection &front part-back part are fold together
Here all part are checked according to following fault
17. Oil spot18. Dirty spot19. crease mark20. needle mark21. foreign yarn22. slub23. contamination24. holeThen same number of sticker are matched fold & bundled
After Cutting store
All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section
LIMITATIONS OF CUTTING SECTION
1. Input problem.
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2. Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor
and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table.
3. There is may be no group for any table
4. Quality inspection & front part & back part are fold together. The faulty body
parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch.
5. Cutting quality man may not be trained
6. Check, Varigated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject
percentage may be increased.
7. Fabric spreading
8. There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting piece of the
lay
9. There is no individual marker man for any unit.
10. Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.
11. Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric.
12. Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric
13. In this stage four men bundled the parts according to serial number.
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Sewing Section
Introduction:
Sewing section is the crowdest section in Micro Fibre Limited. All day long theremachines are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the cutting parts ofdifferent garment has brought in sewing section to sew. First of all machine is set outaccording to requirement. In this chapter I will try to give some flow chart of the differentgarment item sewing along with the machine lay out plan.
In sewing machine normally the following machine is used:
1. Plain Machine (S/N)2. Double Needle Machine (D/N)3. Overlock Machine (O/L)4. Flat lock Machine (F/L)5. Kanshai Machine6. Button Hole Machine7. Button join Machine8. Rib Cutter Machine9. Bartack Machine (B/T), etc.
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Sewing Procedure Flow Chart:-
Input taken and sample arrange
↓Cutting
↓Store
↓Cutting
↓Sewing
↓Store
↓In line work
↓Lay out submit
↓PP meeting
↓Label check
↓Sewing start
↓During sewing
↓Out put
↓Finishing
↓Ship the Goods
Sewing Procedure:
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Input Taken and Sample arrange-
Input taken will provide by planning department with ensure the shipment
date, size, break-down according to manpower of that line and confirm the
checklist sheet of store is ok.
As per input taken planner will provide sample from sample department.
AQC will select the PP sheet and other necessary papers in the mentioned
style.
Cutting:
Input man collects size-wise information from cutting section for giving the
requisition in store for accessories (label, button, twill-tape etc.)
Store:
From store it has to ensure all the accessories if the mentioned style is in the
house.
As per requisition store will start to arrange the accessories. One requisition is given for thread.
Cutting:
Input man will collect the size-wise input by counting which is confirmed by
cutting section.
Pre-work, printing, embroidery and other parts have to give by accurate check
and counting as per input quantity which will taken by sewing input man.
Sewing:
Input man put the input in rack by size-wise.
Store:
Store will provide all the accessories as per requirement of the inputted
quantity and input man take accessories by counting.
Thread will collect by the sewing input man from ground floor.
In line work:
After getting all necessary things Supervisor will start paper layout and take
necessary actions to avoid the problems which can be affected during pick
production line.
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Layout submits:
Before start the production, supervisor submit the layout sheet in IE and
maintenance department.
PP meeting:
Before starting the sewing in the line of the new style it has to be conduct pp
meeting to avoid the missing of buyer comments or requirement.
Label check:
AQC check the label against trim card and give the permission to start the
sewing.
Sewing start:
It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wish which quantity is large.
During sewing:
Supervisor and line-chief doing the major job during the sewing. They always try to solve the up-coming problem. Maintain the hourly production with right quality.
Output:
After doing all processes and quality check garments will stored in output table. Reporter will collect the garments from output table.
After collecting the garments, reporter will count and delivery the goods in
finishing section by size wise.
Finishing
Finishing will ensure that the size wise quantity is ok as per order quantity.
If there any size missing or size wise breakdown not accurate as per order quantity
they have to inform the respective production officer.
Ship the Goods
As per order quantity finishing will complete Carton and make as final
inspection.
After final inspection goods will delivery for shipment.
WORK AIDS IN SEWING
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Experiment has proved that operators spend about 20% of their total time for sewing and therest 80% time is spent for fabric handling i.e. fabric folding, positioning, cut threads, bundletransferring, etc. Scientists invented some components to reduce the fabric handling time,which are called work aids in sewing.
Functions of these components used as work aids:
To help the operators to work easily;
To improve the quality and productivity;
To improve the production.
Guide, compensating foot, specialized pressure foot, stitching jig, rack guide, light, folder,etc.
SEAM
In sewing, a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching.In other words, the line of joining of fabrics is called seam. The arrangement of fabric ends atthe seam line called seam type.
PROPERTIES OF SEAM
Properties of seam are assessed on the following two aspects:
Appearance
After sewing, the sewn area is observed for any defects, if present which affects outlook.Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam pucker, orunsightly view.
Performance
Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria:
Seam Strength: Strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabricstrength.
Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than thefabric elasticity.
Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric.Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due tofrictional forces and tension.
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Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simplereason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seamfails due to normal reason the situation might be unexpected.
Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any irritation orproblem to body and health as well.
Special property: If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire proof,chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this apparel the seam should beproduced in such away that the seams have also such special property.
TYPES OF SEAM
Seam types in the apparel industry are used to categorize seams according to their structure.Each is classified by the abbreviated seam type (example: Superimposed Seam = SS). Thereare more than 100 types of seams and all those seams are grouped under 8 (eight) classes,called seam classes. Each seam class is useful for different construction methods. The seamclasses are discussed below:
Seam class- 1 (Super imposed seam)
Seams under this class have a general characteristic and all the fabric ends are lying in oneside of the seam. This type of seam is used for general sewing, trouser side seam etc.purposes.
Seam class- 2 (Lapped seam)
This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved withtwo or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have oneply of fabric fold under itself for a finished edge. Lapped seams are common when workingwith leather and sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. Fabric ends lie at both sides ofthe seam line. Seams under this class are very strong.
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Seam class- 3 (Bound seam)
The purpose of a bound seam is to finish an edge of a garment. A common example of thiswould be a neckline of a t-shirt. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the rawedge of another piece of fabric. There are 18 variations of a bound seam. Seams under thisclass are produced with at least two pieces of fabric. One piece of fabric bounds the open endof other piece of fabric.
A B
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Seam class- 4 (Flat seam)
Flat seams are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. Acover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needlesand creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam which iscommonly used on garments that fit closely to the body such as underwear. The purpose is tocreate a seam that will be flat throughout the duration of the garment life. Seams under thisclass are produced by keeping the fabric plies side by side i.e. without overlapping of plies offabrics. Hence seams can be produced without increasing the thickness of the seam.
Seam class- 5 (Decorative seam)
Seams under this class are produced only for decoration purpose with single piece ormulti-pieces of fabrics.
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Seam class- 6 (Edge neatening)
Seams under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends from cutarea can not come out during use. Over lock sewing is frequently used for this purpose.
Seam Class- 7
These are sometimes called applied seams because they are mainly used to apply a decorativematerial to an edge of seam, such as the lace ending on a nightdress sleeve.
Seam class- 8
Constructed from one ply of fabric only, this class is commonly used for belt loops and waistbelt.
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STITCH
Stitch may refer to: A method of securing thread into textiles in embroidery and sewing orcreating fabrics in knitting. It may also be a method of medical care to close wounds knownas sutures or stitches. In garments technology, loop or loops of one or more threads whenbind with each other either by interlacing or inter-looping or by combination of these two andperform sewing, then each unit of such configuration is called stitch.
Interlacing: When one thread passes over another thread to perform sewing, then suchbinding is called interlacing.
Interloping: When a loop of one thread passes through a loop of another thread to performsewing, then such binding is called inter-looping.
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Intra-loping: When a loop of a thread passes through another loop of the same thread toperform sewing, then the binding is called intra-looping.
STITCH TYPE
Seam and stitch are inter-related because without seam, stitch can not be produced and seamcan not be produced without stitch. There are about seventy (70) types of stitch can be seenbut among them 18 to 20 types of stitch are used in garments manufacturing industries. Intailoring purposes there are only two to three types of stitch are used. All stitches are classedin six (6) groups:
Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch)
Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by intra-looping technique. All thestitches under this class are unsecured and used for temporary purposes. Starting andfinishing end of the stitch under this class needs bar taking or back stitching to secure thestitches. Most common uses in blind stitching, hemming, button attaching, button holing,gathering, temporary positioning of garment components, etc. purposes.
Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch)
Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread but by the use of special type ofsewing machine. Stitch class – 200 can not be produced for longer length sewing. This class
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of stitches is used very rarely in the Ready Made Garments (RMG) sector as because they arevery expensive to produce. They are used mainly for coat manufacturing. Stitch type – 209 isshown in diagram which is used in the lapel area.
Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch)
Stitches under this class are produced by interlacing technique with two threads. The upperthread is called needle thread and the lower one is called bobbin thread. Stitch type – 301 isshown in diagram which is extensively used in domestic sewing machine, tailoring sewingmachine, RMG sector sewing machine, for general sewing for attaching pocket, collar, cuff,etc components. Stitches under this class are naturally secured and shows good frictionalresistance property. Its extensibility is about 30%, hence used extensively in Ready MadeWoven Garments products.
Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch)
Stitch class – 400 is produced by interlacing and interloping technique. The upper thread iscalled the needle thread and the lower one is called looper thread. Stitch class – 400 isstronger than stitch class – 300, hence used for joining heavy fabrics, side seam of trouser, etcpurposes.
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Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch)
Stitches under this class are produced with one or a group of more threads (one needle threadand two or more looper thread) and at least threads of one group round the edge of the fabricstop fraying i.e. threads from the edge of the fabric can not come out. The knife of themachine cuts the edge first producing a clear edge for seaming. Stitch under this class issometimes called over locking, but actually it is over edge stitch
Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch)
Stitches under this class are formed with at least three groups of threads and threads of twogroups are seen in both side of the fabric. Threads of first group are called needle thread andthreads of second group are called top cover threads and threads of third group are calledbottom cover thread. This type of stitch is so complex and sometimes usage of 9 threads canbe seen. This type of stitch is used for sewing underwear, for attaching lace, braid, elastic,etc.
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Machine Identification
Types Of Machine Brand
Plain Machine Juki, BrotherFlat Lock PegasusPlain Machine BrotherAutomatic Plain Machine Brother
Automatically Done- Thread Cut
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Back Stitch Needle Movement(up-down) Top stitch
Over lock PegasusCylinder Bed PegasusFlat lock Pegasus
Plain Machine Juki
Types of Sewing Machine:
1.Plain Machine (S/N)2.Double Needle Machine (D/N)3.Over lock Machine (O/L)4.Flat lock Machine (F/L)5.Kanshai Machine6.Button Hole Machine7.Button join Machine8.Bar-tack Machine (B/T), etc.9.Cylinder bed m/c10. Flat bed m/c.
Thread Use in Different Machine:
Machine Type Thread Type
Plain/Auto Plain M/C 1 needle Thread1 Bobbin Thread
Double Needle M/c Two NeedleTwo bobbins
Over Lock 2 Needle Thread2 Looper Thread
Cylinder Bed 3 Needle Thread1 Spreader Thread1 looper Thread
Flat bed 3 Needle Thread1 Spreader Thread
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1 looper Thread
Different Between Cylinder Bed & Flat Bed:
Cylinder Bed Flat Bed
1. Hem can make Hem can not make2. Piping mechanism is not available Piping mechanism is available3. Top stitch can done Top stitch can not done.
Different Sewing Machine Parts:
Single Needle Sewing Machine: Plain Machine
Fig: Plain machineMachine Parts:
Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread up lever guide Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Hand lifter Needle clamp Needle
Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Reverse lever Bobbin winder Pulley Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Leg lifter Foot Safety guide Motor
Over Lock Sewing Machine:
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Fig: Over Lock Machine
Machine Parts:
Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Pressure Spring Eye protection glass Upper & Lower looper
Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Pulley Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Leg lifter Safety guide Motor
Cylinder Bed Machine:
Fig: Cylinder Bed Machine
Machine Parts:
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Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper
Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Safety guide Motor
Flat Bed Machine:
Fig: Flat Bed Machine
Machine Parts:
Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar
Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover
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Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper
Piping Mechanism(Folder) Motor
SEWING NEEDLE
A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were madeof bone or wood; modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel- or goldplated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are made of platinum.Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the lengthand thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needlewill be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. The action of needle has adirect effect on seam strength and garments performances.
Functions of a needle
The functions of a sewing needle are:
To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through withoutcausing any damage to material.
To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.
To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanismon machines other than lock stitch.
PARTS OF A SEWING NEEDLE
The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below:
Butt: It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which isneeded to attach the needle with needle bar or clamp.
Shank: Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates within the needlebar. It may be cylindrical or flat at one side.
Shoulder: Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and theblade.
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Blade: It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. Thispart is responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.
Long groove: There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needlethread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up anddown.
Short groove: Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook orlooper. It assists in forming the loop of needle thread.
Eye: Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing threadpasses. It prevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing.
Scarf: Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle justabove the eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to theneedle.
Point: It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and theappearance that has to be produced.
Tip: Tip is the keen extreme end of the point.
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Size of the needle:
1. DB * 1 -7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for Plain M/C
2. DC * 1 -7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for over lock M/C
3. UY * 128 -8, 9, 10, 11 for Flat lock M/C
4. UO * 113 -9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 for Kansai M/C
5. DP * 17 -11 for button stitch M/C
6. DP * 5 -11 for button hole M/C
7. DP * 5 -9, 10, 11 for Two needle lock stitch
Requirement of fabric assembling or sewing:-
1.Cutting fabric components: - All components of a particular garment should at first be
available before sewing. Ex: For manufacturing a basic full sleeve polo shirt 10 cut
components are needed.
2.Need same number cut pieces: - At first all components or patterns of a particular lay of
fabric should be given same number. Ex: all the patterns of 3rd lay are given number -
3. Then the same numbered patterns are used for making a garment.
3.Dye to match sewing thread: - Dye to match sewing thread is essential for sewing.
Because the color of fabric and thread should be identical. Again the fastness of dye
of both fabric and thread should be same.
4.All accessories must be available: - For making garments, several accessories are
required. Ex: zipper, button, threads etc are required. They should be available.
5.Proper needle selection: - For sewing particular garments proper needle should be
selected. That is to say, needle should be proper size and point. For sewing knitted
fabric the needle should be of ball pointed and for woven fabric the needle should be
of set pointed.
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SEWING THREAD
Almost all garments produced have one component in common; the sewing thread. Whilstsewing thread is usually a relatively a small percentage of the cost of garments, it has anextremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the finished product. Theproduction of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subject.
Sew ability
It describes the basic properties of sewing threads which ensures the uniformity of stitchformation. Sew ability includes:
Not breaking when used for high speed sewing.
Facilitating the consistent formation of stitches.
The minimum occurrence of skipped stitches.
In order to prevent tension during sewing, the threads must have uniformdiameter.
A high level of resistance to abrasion is essential due to the friction of thethread in the needle eye and with other mechanisms.
The thread has to have sufficient surface smoothness to pass easily throughthe guides of the machine.
Durability
The main thread related factors under this heading are:
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The thread has to have sufficient elasticity to withstand the normal pressureimposed on seams during wear. This is particularly important for knittedfabrics because of their inherent extensibility.
Thread shrinkage should be minimal after the garment has been washed ordry-cleaned.
The thread should maintain its original color after being subjected to cleaningprocess. In particular, this is applicable to the threads used for top stitchingand other decorative purposes such as embroidery.
TYPES OF SEWING THREAD
For practical purposes, sewing threads for clothing industry can be divided into three broadgroups; Cotton, Synthetics and Core spun.
Cotton
Threads made from cotton fibres have excellent sew ability because the fibres are very supple(flexible) and are not seriously affected by needles during sewing. On the other hand, Cottonthreads are not highly durable and some of the softer types have a tendency to shrink whenthe garment is washed. Glace and mercerized cotton threads sew well and have a lustrousappearance but they both shrink slightly when wetted.
Synthetics
This is large group of threads made mainly from nylon, polyester, rayon and polyamidefilaments or fibres. The threads are very durable and are not affected by moisture orchemicals used in washing powder or dry cleaning solvents. In addition, they have excellentdimensional stability and a high resistance to abrasion. Synthetic threads are available in anumber of different constructions and finishes, which enhances the performance for specialsewing application.
Core spun
This thread has continuous filament polyester wrapped in cotton fibres, which produces astrong thread with excellent sew ability. Core spun threads have good elasticity and a highresistance to heat a shrinkage but cost more than regular threads because they have to be dyedtwice, first for the polyester core then for the cotton wrap. The advantage of core spun threadis that finer thread can be used due to the superior strength of polyester core.
Other fibres
Two other natural fibre threads, which have limited application, are silk and linen.
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Silk: These threads are strong with good elongation and a highly lustrousappearance. Silk threads have good sew ability but the high cost restricts theiruse for mass production sewing.
Linen: Once linen was used for sewing tents, shoes, leather, etc. Linenthreads spun from flax have been replaced mostly by synthetics.
Features of Some Garments:
# T-Shirt:
Casual tops
Narrow neck line
Short sleeve / long sleeve.
No collar
Usually made of knit fabric.
# POLO shirt:
Tops
Shirt / long
Collar
Shirt button placket
Made of knit fabric.
# Tank TOP
Sleeve less pull over.
fused over a shirt.
Warm shirt
Waist band
Put on over head
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# Pull over – Sweater.
Warm shirt
Long sleeve
Waist band
Put on/ over head.
SMV ( Standard Minutes value):
utesprocesseachfinishtorequiredTimeSMV
min60
Time req. to finish each process = 41.5 sec.
SMV without Allowance = 691.060
5.41
Here,
Manual and machine operation time are considered.
Normally,SMV=observation time*operator rating
In Micro fibre ltd, operator rating is 70%
SEWING DEFECTS OR PROBLEMS
Feed system, needle and thread together determine the seam appearance and performance.The problems which arise when materials are sewn in their seriousness. Some are majorproblems which can not be overlooked and for these problems garments will be rejected bythe inspector, whereas some are minor problems which are negligible in low qualitygarments. The sewing defects are:
Seam pucker
Broken or open stitch
Staggered (spread out) stitch
Slipped or skipped stitch
Variable stitch density
The first two of them are major problems and the rest are less serious problems.
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Fig: Seam pucker
Seam pucker
Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam whencompared to a smooth fabric. The main causes of seam pucker are mentioned below:
Mainly seam pucker occurs due to unequal tension feed-dog and pressurefoot on two plies of fabric.
It also occurs due to unequal thread tension and unsuitable thread.
It may occur due to feeding problem and needle size.
It also occurs due to shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.
It may occur due to instability of fabric dimensions or fabric construction.
Fig: Broken or Open stitch
Broken or Open stitch
It is also a major problem of sewing. The reasons of occurring broken or open stitchare mentioned below:
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Mainly due to tension variation between needle and bobbin thread in highspeed sewing machine, breakage of threads occurs. This is responsible forbroken stitch.
Needle thread breakage occurs due to following reasons:
If tension on needle thread is more;
If snarling of yarn occurs in tension disc.
If fraying of needle thread occurs.
Excess needle heating or hook heating.
Low quality sewing thread.
Sharp edge of throat plate, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove,etc.
The causes of bobbin thread breakage are mentioned below:
Faulty winding of thread on bobbin.
Excessive tension on bobbin thread.
Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eye and spring.
Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.
Staggered stitch
If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line individually then theyare called staggered stitches.
The causes of staggered stitches are as follows:
Due to needle deflection and vibration.
Due to loose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar.
Due to wrong selection of needle point.
Due to combination problem of needle and thread size.
Due to faulty speed and motion of feed-dog.
Due to improper controlling of fabric by the feed mechanism.
Slipped or Skipped stitch
If the continuation of stitches in a seam line hampers by slipping some stitches, then suchstitch is called slipped or skipped stitch. If the looper in the machine can not pick the loop ofneedle thread from the underside, slipped stitch arises. The causes of slipped stitch are:
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If the timing between needle and looper or bobbin is not proper, needlethread loop is not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required. This willcause slipped stitch.
If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs.
Unequal tension between the two sets of thread.
Deflection or vibration of needle.
Due to flagging during sewing.
Variable stitch density
It is the variation of number of stitches per unit length of seam. The causes of variable stitchdensity are mentioned below:
If fabric can not move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressurefoot.
Due to faulty feed mechanism.
The remedies of this problem are as follows:
Adjustment of pressure foot pressure.
Sewing Quality Checking Points-
Skip/Drop/Broken Stitch Raw Edge Size Mistake Uneven Hem Uneven Cuff Uneven Neck Uneven Shoulder Uneven Placket Uneven Pocket Twisting Without Care Label Open Tack Sleeve Up-Down Stripe Up-Down Open Seam Four Point Up-Down Spot Shading, Etc
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Finishing SectionIntroduction:
From the sewing section all garments are sending to the finishing section to check thembefore packing. It is known to all that if the finishing part is done very carefully then the littlefault may be unseen at a glance. Shipment may not be cancelled if packing is done correctly.It is ensured that all the accessories are attached with garment according to the buyerrequirement which are already approved. Iron is done carefully and gives attention the foldmark where it is exactly placed. Here steam iron may be the proper solution and in MicroFibre Limited steam iron is used in every section where it is necessary.
If there find out any fault within the garment then it is identify weather it is major orminor. Attached the arrow sticker to help the problem find out. If major problem is seen thenit is again send to the sewing section to recover that problem.
In the time of attaching the accessories it is very carefully done to attach them inexact position and direction. Otherwise that will be considered as a fault.
When poly packing is done then it is very carefully handled that there is identify theassortment requirement. The carton size and the format also the vital fact in the finishingsection.
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Care Instruction Format from Internet:
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GARMENTS MERCHANDISING
Merchandising:
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Definition:1. Garments merchandising is the combination of some works like buyerdevelopment, work order collection,prizing,sample development approval ofsample, fabrics and accessories collection follow up,documentation,delivery intime etc.2. To know about garments for selling is called garments merchandising.
Flow chart of merchandising:
Talk to buyer(Buyer developing)↓
Receive order requiest↓
Development sample↓
Consumption of material↓
Costing of material including CM↓
Negotiate with buyer↓
Order receive (L/C)↓
Back to back L/C opening for purchasing fabric and accessories↓
Sample approving↓
Approval for mass bulk production↓
Related work to production planning↓
Start bulk production↓
Line inspercion↓
Final inspection by buyer or buyer representative↓
Shipment to buyer↓
Send document to buyer for payment↓
Payment receive from bank.
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Responsibilities of Merchandiser: To negotiate the price for the seller, if price is high, then it is less chance
to get the order. On the other hand if prize is low, then there is a chanceto incur loss for the factory, so it is very risky job for a merchandiser andhave to remember it.
Have to give more competitive price without compromising the quality. They have to maintain good relation with the buyer for getting more
business in the future. Have to purchase all mtl (fabrics & accessories) within competitive prize
for making the garments as per buyer instruction regarding quality. To execute the order within limited time that is timely delivery shipment
is must, otherwise if goods are not shift in time, then buyer will notaccept the goods, in that case it will be loss for a factory.
Work done by Merchandiser: Sourcing Pricing(CM,C&F.CIF,FOB) Order follow up and inspection Ensuring on time shipment.
Activities of Merchandiser Department are as follows:
Communication with Buyers Procure order & order confirmation Costing Consumption Price Quoting Sample Control & Approval Potential Sourcing of material & approval fabric,trim& accessories Lab dipping & Approval Purchasing of Materials Testing Factory scheduling/planning Order follow up:all steps of production & Quality Ensure on time delivery Liaison with the customer during design,sourcing,production& shipping Conduct coordination Meeting with other departments/pre-production meeting Attend buyers meeting Ensure Customer Satisfaction Product Development etc.
GARMENTS ACCESSORIES
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Garments accessories means all items used in the garments except the basic iscalled garments trims.There are hundreds of items used to manufacture thegarments which are used as trims.
ACCESSORIES:1) Sewing thread and sew able items
a) Threadb) Buttonc) Main labeld) Care labele) Size labelf) Velcro(Hook and loop fastener)g) Laceh) Elastici) Zipperj) Twill tap
2) Finishing item:a) Price ticketb) Hang tagc) Poly bagd) Back boarde) Collar insidef) Butter flyg) Tag pinh) Tissue paperi) Draw string and stopperj) Scotch tapek) Tissue paperl) Plastic clipm) Collar bonen) Elastico) Gum tapep) Carton
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CHAPTER-7
Quality Assurance System
Micro Fibre Ltd. is more concern about quality. In this factory qualityassurance is more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. The QualityAssurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material inprocess and various stages of its manufacturing.
Quality assurance:Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary toprovide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements forquality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniformquality of the material in process and various stages of manufacturing.
Marketinvestigationrescarch /Analysi
s
Define&
Designthe
demanded
quality
QC
Production (O& M)
Demanded quality,
just intime and
atreasonabl
e
Ensuresupplyin the
market
I amhappy to
havewhat I
wanted!
Whatdoes the
userwant?
Production Plan
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Quality assurance is, therefore, a systematic activity conducted by a manufacturer thatassures satisfactory fulfilment of the quality demanded by the customers.
Object of quality control:-Research-Selection of raw materials-Process control-Process development-Product testing-Specification test
Scope of quality control:-Testing lab-Machine auditing system-A good training system-Excellent analytical backup-Technical expertise
Quality Control Flow Chart:
Yarn receiving
Sample Knitting
Batching
Dyeing (Check shade & Faults of dyeing)
Dewatering & Untwisting
Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality and GSM)
Compacting
Final inspection
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If sample OK go for bulk production
Quality Management system:Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:
1. Online quality control2. Offline quality control
Quality Assurance
On Line Off Line
Online QCThis involves analysis of quality of inputs and outputs and undertaking control
measures while production process goes on, and this is done centrally. For example, in MicroFibre Ltd. inspection/checking/testing and corrective measures against defect formation areundertaken instantly starting from cutting to sewing, assembling, ironing and packing. Online QC is not involved. With quality control at procurement, storage and delivery stages.There is another way of understanding of Online QC where data of inspection andchecking/testing are sent online to central office of decision, and from where after analysisthe corrective measures are also sent online to the place of production for taking necessaryaction for the interest of quality.
On Line Test:- GSM of the Fabric;- Exact Diameter and Width;- Grey Fabric Inspection (4 point);- Shade Check;- Bias and Bowing;- Visual appearance (Enzyme performance);- Stripe.
Offline QC:
Off'-line QC generally checks and analyses causes of quality deviation with the informationtaken from a past cycle of a process and recommend the corrective measures to undertake innext cycle of the process. Proper and effective QC should include both online and off-lineapproaches. The following tests are generally done-
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Off Line Test:
All the Off Line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows-1. Physical Tests, and2. Chemical Tests
Physical Tests: GSM of Fabric; Rubbing Fastness or Crocking; Pilling test; Diameter and Width; Tensile strength; Tearing test; Bursting test; Light Fastness test; Drape, Stiffness, and Handle; Course per inch; Wales per inch; Picks per inch; Ends per inch.
Chemical Tests: Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting; Fastness to Washing; Fastness to Perspiration; Fastness to Chlorine; PH test.
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WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LABSAMPLE IN (FABRICS)
Physical Test Wet Lab.
Color fastness to light Bursting strength Color Fastness To Washing Dimensional Stability Pilling Crocking Prepare the sample
Pre-Production Sample Final SampleEvaluate the Sample Wash the sample according to buyer measure
Test TeststReport Making Tumble dry
Prepared the ReportKeep the sample Flat in conditioned temp
Pass Fail at least two hours before measurePass Fail
Delivery Refinish Measure the sampleGo for the final Refinish
Need to test again Prepared the ReportNeed to test again
Pass Fail
Ready to deliver Refinish
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List Of Dyeing And QC Laboratory MachineriesSl.No. LABORATORY MACHINERIES QUANTITY
01 Computer Color Matching System ( Data Colour USA) SF-600X 01
02 Computer Color Matching System (Minolta, Japan) 01
03 Crock meter (Rubbing, Fastness Tester) Jems H Hell UK 01
04Sample Dyeing Machine (High Temp. & Atmospheric) AHIBANUANCE USA
03
05 Washing Fastness / Shrinkage Tester electrolux Switzerland, 01
06 Perspiration Tester UK ROACHES 01
07 Tumble Dryer UK 01
08 Light Box Varibide-UK 120/D-65, TL-83,Tl-84 UU 02
09 Yarn Count Tester , Paramount /India 01
10 Water Hardness testing equipment= Hanna,/Hungary 01
11 Pilling tester UK , ICL Pilling Tester ROACHES 01
12 Digital PH Meter : Metler Toledo/switcher land 01
13 OPTI FADE – Light Fastness Tester : ROACHES/UK 01
14 Water Fastness Tester / Perspiration Fastness Tester: ROACHES/UK 01
15 Dimensional Stability Measuring Scale 01
16 View Tex –Process controller for Production 01
17 Digital pipet-Rainin- USA 01
18 Digital pipet-Rainin- USA 01
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Fig: electrolux washing machine Fig: Pilling assessment viwer
Fig: Channel Oven Fig: Yarn Count Tester
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Fig: Crock meter Fig: ECO data color
Fig: Electrolux drier Fig: Inodex washing machine
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Fig: Labtexh Fig: Labtech
Fig: Enzyme tester Fig: OPTI FADE m//c
Fig: Padding mangle machine Fig: Digital PH Meter
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Fig: Pilling tester Fig: Roach Oven
Fig: Solar Box 1500 Light Fastness Tester Fig: Tumble Drye
Quality Standard:Micro Fibre Ltd. follows the quality standard: ISO-9001:2000
Fabric Inspection:The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified and
fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabric inspection is done forboth grey and finished fabric.Fabric inspection :
Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by-
a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c.b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2
D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.
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Grey Fabric Inspection:Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.
Quality Control Of KnittingMICRO FIBRE GROUP is very conscious about quality, They are following 4 point gradingsystem for fabric inspection, which is an international standard. The 4 point grading system withdefect point against defect size is tabulated below:
THICK THIN DIRT, OIL SPOT, CONTAMINATION:
Up to 3’’ in length: 1 PtUp to 6’’ in length: 2 “Up to 9’’ in length: 3 “Up to 9’’ in length: 4 “
QUALITY Pts / per 100 square meter= (Total point * GSM)/ (Roll weight*10)Quality inspectors seal on the fabric rolls as ‘CHECK-1’, ‘OK’ & ‘REJECT’ as according asquality classification.
Following forrnula is used for calculation of Acceptance Quality Level (AQL):
Following table shows the acceptance calculation followed by the inspection section at MICROFIBRE GROUP:
FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEMSize of defects Penalty3 inches or less 1 point
Over three inch but not 6 inch 2 pointOver 6 inch but not 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
ACCEPTANCE CALCULATIONUp To 20 Points A Grade
21-30 Points B Grade
31-40Points C Grade
Above 40 Points Rejected
AQL
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Finished Fabric Inspection:4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.
Checking for final inspection:1. Uneven shade2. Oil spot3. Neps4. Crease mark5. Machine Stoppage mark6. Listing7. Line mark8. Pick missing9. Double yarn10. Dead cotton11. Bowing or skew12. Fly yarn contamination
Find out the mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance and standard error ofinspection result of finished fabric:
SHIFT ID samples (N) Number ofdefect
Defect persample Xi Xi-X (Xi-X)2
Saturday-1 110 880 8 1.53 2.34Saturday-2 108 756 7 0.53 0.28Sunday-1 90 810 9 2.53 6.40Sunday-2 102 636 6.23 -0.24 0.06Monday-1 89 623 7 0.53 0.28Monday-2 106 600 5.66 -0.81 0.66Tuesday-1 98 578 5.90 -0.57 0.32Tuesday -2 95 500 5.26 -1.21 1.46
Wednesday-1
100 760 7.6 1.13 1.28
Wednesday-2
103 400 3.88 -2.59 6.71
Thursday -1 98 515 5.25 -1.22 1.49Thursday -2 89 629 7.07 0.60 0.36
N=1188 ∑Xi=7687 ∑(Xi-X)2 =21.64
Mean, X = 6.47
1Variance = ∑(Xi-X)2
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(N-1)
1= x 21.64 = 0.0182
1188
Standard deviation, σ = √variance =√0.0182= 0.135Standard deviation
Coefficient of variation CV% = X 100Mean0.135
= X 1006.47
=2.09%
Higher the CV value more irregular is the pattern of the indicator. The lower of the CV value,better the quality of sample by structure and behaviors for the subsequent processes.
Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests:
Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in quality control departmentof the Micro Fibre Group. Different types of method (Standard or buyer’s recommended) arefollowed for different types of tests. The process of the different tests of fabrics are described inthe following section:
i. Color fastness to washing –ISO105CO3, ISO105CO6C2S , ISO105CO6A2Sii. Color fastness to rubbing/crocking –ISO105X12
iii. Color fastness to cold water –ISO105EO1iv. Color fastness to hot water –ISO105EO8v. Color fastness to perspiration–ISO105EO4
vi. Color fastness to light –ISO105B02vii. Dimensional stability ISO5077
viii. Appearance after washix. Pilling test ISO12941
Color Fastness to Wash Test:
Required materials:1. Sample size 40 100 mm2. Multifiber at 40 100 mm3. ECE detergent – 4g/L4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3) - 1g/L5. Distilled water
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6. Normal cold water7. Steel balls
Required instrument:1. Washing machine2. Scissor3. Stitch machine
Procedure :1. Cut sample & multifibre at 100 400 mm and then stitch.2. ECE detergent & Sodium per borate is taken with the sample.
the solution is taken by the following formula:(Sample fabric + Multifibre weight) 50 ml (1:50 liquor ratio)
3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Wash Machine4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.5. Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be
more than 150°C.Evaluation:
Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by GreyScale & Staining Scale.
Washing fastness for solid dyeing is checked normally 3 times e.g.
- During sample production- After compacting /calendaring- After printing- After garments produced
Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:Sample:
- Dyed fabric – 15 cm 5 cm- White Test Cloth - 5 cm 5 cm
Procedure:- White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.- The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. and the rubbing fastness of
the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.- For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and
squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless steelwire and run ten times manually then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth andthe rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.
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Evaluation:- Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of
the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.
Color Fastness to cool Water:Test specimen:
Sample fabric – 100 mm 40 mmMultifibre fabric – 100 mm 40 mm Cut the multifibre into two piece Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:Water is taken as required
Method:- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Water is taken in the peri dish as required.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (372)
0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is dried (Temp 600C)
Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining
Color Fastness to hot Water:Test specimen:
Sample fabric – 100 mm 40 mmMultifibre fabric – 100 mm 40 mm Cut the multifibre into two piece Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:Water is taken as required
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Method: Roll the composite specimen compactly around the glass rod to form a cylinder 4 cm
long, and tie uniformly, but not tightly, with thread Leave the specimen on the rod for 30 min in slightly acidified distilled water under
reflux at a temperature of 60 ± 2oC and at a liquor ratio of 30: 1. During the test ensurethat the composite specimen is always submerged in the water.
Remove the specimen from the rod and squeeze the specimen. Open out the compositespecimen by breaking the stitching on all sides except one of the shorter sides.7.4 Lay outthe composite specimen smooth between the two glass or acrylic-resin plates under apressure of 12.5 kPa.
Place the test device containing the composite specimen in the over for 4 h at 37 oC ± 2oC .
After that dry it by hanging it in air at a temperature not exceeding 60oC with the threeparts in contact only at the remaining line of stitching.
Assess the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics withthe grey
Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining
Color Fastness to Perspiration Test:Test specimen:
Sample fabric – 100 mm 40 mmMultifibre fabric – 100 mm 40 mm Cut the multifibre into two piece Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:
1. Alkaline Solution:l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H4O2N3 HCI.H2O)– 5.00 g/LNaCl – 5.00 g/Lsodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (NaH2PO4.2H20)– 2.5 g/LSodium chloride (NaCl)-5g/lPH – 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
2. Acidic Solution:l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H4O2N3 HCI.H2O)– 5.00 g/LNaCl – 5.00 g/LSodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O) – 2.2 g/LSodium chloride (NaCl)-5g/lPH – 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
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Method:- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two peri dish. Here, M:L is taken 1:50.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (372)
0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is dried (Temp 600C)
Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining
Scale.
Color fastness to light:Method used: ISO 105 BO2Light used: Xenon arc lampPower of light: 1500 wattProcess time: 20-80 hrs (according to buyer requirement)
Process:
1) Put the sample in the clamp and then put it in the machine. Startrunning the machine and keep it running for recommended hours ofbuyer.
2) Then take it out and compare with the grey scale of color staining forrating.
Evaluation:Evaluation was made numerically by European or American blue scale (1-8).Accepted Quality standard:
1. Color fastness to light Above 42. Color fastness to wash 4-53. Color fastness to water 4-54. Color fastness to rubbing Wet 4, Dry 4-55. Color fastness to perspiration 4-5
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Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality):
Measuring the dimensional stability:Sample:
Two piece of 50 cm 50 cm fabric is taken for test.Procedure:
a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioningbefore starting test.
b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitchthe sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.
c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice.d. Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO
SCOURING is flat dry. {Three types of drying can be used here fordrying the fabric- Tumble drying, Screen/ Flat drying and E 3 (Hanging) drying }
50 x 50 cm
Fig: Template
Shrinkage test calculation:
Before wash – After washShrinkage % = X 100
Before washBy this test spirality can also be measured by the following formula –Spirality% = A/B×100
2.2= × 100 = 6.12%
35.5Here A= Length measurement before washB=Spiraled length.
╬ ° ╬
° 35 x 35 cm °
╬ ° ╬
B
A
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Spirality test calculation:
S = (S1+S2) / 2Spirality = (S+S L)/100
Suppose,S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line afterwash.S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.L = Length before wash
Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variation of 10 pieces of dyed fabrics were selectedrandomly from QC-LAB to determine the dimentional stability. The test result are given asfollows:
No of test Dimentional stability (shrinkage%)lengthwise Xi Xi-X (Xi-X)2
1 4.12 -0.43 0.18492 4.60 0.05 0.00253 4.40 -0.15 0.02254 4.50 -0.05 0.00255 4.83 0.28 0.07846 5.00 0.45 0.20257 5.10 0.55 0.30258 4.17 -0.38 0.14449 4.51 -0.04 0.0016
10 4.22 -0.33 0.1089N=10 ∑Xi=45.45 ∑(Xi-X)2=1.0507
45.45Mean, X= =4.545=4.55
10
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1Variance = ∑(Xi-X)2
(N-1)
1= x 1.0507 = 0.1167=0.117
9
Standard deviation, σ = √variance =√0.117= 0.342
Standard deviationCoefficient of variation C.V% = X 100
Mean
0.342= X 100
4.55
=7.52%
Higher the CB value more irregular is the pattern of the indicator. The lower of the CV value,better the quality of sample by structure and behaviors for the subsequent processes.
pH of a Dyed Fabric TestTest specimen:
2 gm of dyed fabric is taken. The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm 0.5 cm)
Procedure:1. The sample is taken into conical flax.2. 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax.3. The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes.
Report:The PH of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH meter.
Quality Standard:
Micro Fibre Group is certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 9001:2000
SHORTLY DESCRIBED ABOUT OEKO-TEX STD100:
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Oeko-Tex std. 100 certificate is designed by the International Association for Research &Testing considering the consumer safety & environment protection for the purchase of textiles.This certificate ensures “Confidence in Textiles - tested for harmful substances” & show to theconsumer that goods bought by them are free from any hazards to health such as,
o Formaldehyde.o Toxic pesticides.o Penta Chloro Phenol.o Heavy metal traces.o Azo dyes which release carcinogenic amines.o Halogen carriers.o Chlorine bleaching.o PH of the aqueous extract.
Oeko-Tex std. 100 from ecological point on textile substrates (Yarn, Fabric, garments etc.)marked by textile manufacturers. This does not depend solely on the dyestuffs. It also dependson the processing conditions, various chemicals & other auxiliaries used in the manufacture ofsuch a substrate. So, Oeko-Tex std. 100 is not a quality label, it is just only ensures the safety ofthe textile goods and eco-labeled.
Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. always aware about the quality of the product. The quality of the
product is always approved by the buyer. They follow the quality standard: ISO -9001:2000.MFG is well equipped for checking the quality of the product. They sent the qualityreport to the buyer time to time/batch to batch. We think as MFG strictly meet up the qualitylevel that’s why they are the only one direct manufacture of Marks & Spencer garments. MicroFibre Group. is well equipped for checking the quality of the product. They sent the qualityreport to the buyer time to time/batch to batch.
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CHAPTER-08MAINTENANCE
Maintenance is the process by which equipment is looked after in such a way thattrouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product qualityrequired by the customer is sustained. Maintenance can increased machine life and ensuredtrouble free service
Maintenance of machinery:
1 Break down Maintenance: Break down maintenance is done instantly when problem arises inmachine. In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot performits normal functions.
RoutineMaintenance
Break DownMaintenance
MechanicalMaintenance
ElectricalMaintenance
MechanicalMaintenance
ElectricalMaintenance
Maintenance
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2. Routine Maintenance: After a particular little the machines are cleaned & reordered, that isroutine or schedule maintenance. PPC does it once in a month. Schedule maintenance varies,time in time & also depends on situation according to types of machines, because maintenance isdirectly related to production.Most of the time, all the screws, nuts, bolts & levers are checked, lubrication is also done.Workers inform about the problem areas of the machines. Depending on their informationmaintenance is done, Maintainers analyses the machine records & takes steps according torequirements.
Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance:
A Shift 8 AM - 8 PM B Shift 8 PM - 8 AM General Shift 9AM - 6 PM
Maintenance Manager
Electrical Mechanical Utility
Engineer-01 Engineer-01 Engineer-02
Fitter & Welder-10 Electrician-81 Operator-17
Operator-03 Armature Winder-09 Helper-12
Helper-05 Helper-09 Labour & Peon- 09
Maintenance procedure:During maintenance procedure following points should be checked.Maintenance: MechanicalMachine: Dyeing Machines
Sl.No. Item need to be checked & Serviced
1 Crease the winch bearing.2 Complete cleaning of machine3 Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required4 Check air supply filter, regulators, and auto drain seals
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5 Clean filters element and blow out6 Greasing of Unloading Roller Bearings.7 Checking of oil level and bolts of Unloading Roller Gearbox.8 Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.9 Checking and cleaning (if required) of Mm Vessel Level Indicator10 Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required.11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves12 Check all belts and belt tension13 Check all door seals
Maintenance: MechanicalMachine: Lab dyeing m/c.
Maintenance work to the different machines:
Boiler Maintenance Schedule:
Daily: Check gas pressureMaintain log sheetChemical dosing
Weekly: Check all steam lineFire quality of boiler
Monthly: Check all steam lineFire quality of boilerGas consumption reportBurner clean
Quarterly: Burner cleanEconomizer cleanFeed tank cleanChemical tank clean
Sl. No. Item need to be checked & Serviced
1 Check rotating main shaft bearing.
2 Check cooling water inlet and outlet nose and nose clips.3 Check cooling fans4 Check driving bells and pulleys.
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Sight glass clean
Half yearly: Burner cleanFeed tank cleanChemical tank cleanEconomizer cleanReplace gasketReplace valve
Check gas line & filter & pressure
Yearly: Overhauling of boilerChemical cleaning of boilerSafety valve testEconomizer cleanFeed tank clean
Dyeing m/c maintenance Schedule
Daily: Check belt tensionCheck steam or water system & air supplyCheck chemical pumpMachine clean
Weekly: Bearing & belt checkCheck leakage of air, steam &Water lineGreasing bearing point
Monthly: Greasing bearing pointsReplace bearing points (if required)Gasket checkClean steam trapLubricating all chemical pump
Quarterly: Replace beltsRepairing of pulley, shaft & bearing housingClean steam trapReplace seals (if leakage)
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Half yearly: Replace beltsRepairing pulley, shaft & bearing housing Machine body repairing
Yearly: Machjne overhauling
Compacting m/c maintenance:
Daily: Check belt tensionCheck Steam supply & air systemM/c clean
Weekly: Check fabric qualityGreasing bearing points
Monthly: Greasing bearing pointsClean air filter & regulatorClean steam trap
Quarterly: Replace beltsReplace gear oilPainting m/c & pipeline of the total systemReplace seals
Half yearly: Check roller conditionGreasing & lubricating of all pointsCheck bearing condition
Yearly: Machine overhauling
Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions:
Maintenance tools/equipments Functions1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts2. Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting3. Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting4. Socket Handle system for nut & bolt fitting5. hammer To apply load where required6. Screw driver To release any screw7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft8. Lock To open the clip of bearing
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9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing10. Outside To measure outside dia11. Inside To measure inside dia12. Slide calii To measure very small dia13. Vernier scale To measure very small dia14. Chain ton To lift heavy load15. Welding machine To join metallic16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics17. Tester To test electric circuit18. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything19. Avometer/Voitmeter To measure voltage20. Steel To measure length, width & height21. Chisel To cut any metal22. Gasket cutter For gasket cutting23. File To smooth the rough surface
Remarks:The maintenance department of Micro Fibre Ltd. is well equipped. It has sufficientmaintenance manpower including mechanical and electrical engineers. They do the maintenanceof the rn/cs during the Eid vacation. Otherwise, they do the breakdown maintenance.To increasethe lifetime of the machineries and ensure the proper running of the machinery.
CHAPTER-09UTILITY SERVICE
Available Utility Facilities:
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1. Electricity2. Gas3. Water4. Compressed air5. Boiler etc.
Electricity:
The main utility electricity is supplied by generator & REB power.
Generator: Two types –1.Gas generator2. Diesel generator
1. Gas generator:No. of gas generator: 03Capacity: Generator 1- 920 KW
Generator 2- 900KWGenerator 3- 1100KW
2. Diesel generator:No. of diesel generator: 01Capacity: Generator 1-350KW
REB power:Capacity: 1 MW
Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section like knitting,Dyeing (yarn/ fabric), Finishing, Maintenance, WTP, ETP etc.
Gas:
Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36 m3
gas is required to produce 1 ton of steam.
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Water:
Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible andcentrifugal pumps.
Source of water Under ground water.No. of submercible pump 05
Boiler:
Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section as required. InMicro Fibre Ltd. four boilers are used to produce and deliver steam to different section.
Specification:
Type Fire Tube BoilerBrand Name Cleaver Brooks, USATypeNo. DDH 15.0—10SerialNo. 18709Year of manufacturing 1996Max. Working pressure gauge 10 barMax Temperature 183° CMax heat capacity 3.25 MWWater content up to ‘NW’ 9.62 cubic meterMax steam out put 5.0 tonlhrGas pressure in line 1 barGas pressure (in boiler) 10 barGas consumption 34 cubic meter/daySteam pressure 7.5 barSteam header pressure 120 PSIBlow down line 4 times/daySoft water supply pipe dia 1 inchEstablishment cost: 60 lacks Type
Compressor:
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Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required.In Micro Fibre Ltd. six compressors are used to produce and deliver compressed air todifferent section.
Specification:
No. of Compressor 06Pressure of compressor 7.5 barCapacity 70 m3/hr
Source of Utility:
Electricity : Generator & REB PowerGas : TITASWater : PumpsCompressed air : compressorSteam : Boiler
Utility cost:
Fig: Boiler (Revotherm) Fig: Steam Delivery Chamber
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01. Gas bill (Titas) : 7-8 lacs / month02. Electricity Bill (REB) :8-9 lacs / month03. Others :5-6 lacs / month
Remark:As Micro Fibre Ltd. is the biggest project,here utility system is vast. There is a skill
manpower group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these utility services. Theyhave to remain aware of solution on a great sense of responsibility for any type of problem due toutility supply.
Water treatment plant
No. of W.T.P. 04Capacity 300m3/hr
Process Flow chart ( Water softening method- ion exchange process ):
Multigrade filter tank ( Have multigrade sand )
Carbon filter tank
Resin tank
To reserve tank
Function of different tank:
Multigrade filter tank- To filter solid content in water.Carbon filter tank- To remove chlorine from water.Resin tank- To remove hardness by ion-exchange reaction.
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Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)The effluent generated from different sections of a textile industry must be treated before
they are discharged to the environment. Various chemicals and physical means are introduced forthis purpose.The ETP used in Micro Fibre Ltd. is Bio-Chemical process.
Capacity : 100m3/ hrCost : Tk. 1.175 / Kg
Flow chart for ETP:
Waste water
Mechanical barge crain
Collection tank / equalization tank
Pumping water
Clarifier settles off
Bio-tower tank pH Check
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Pumping
Airation tank
Lamallah (Secondary Clarifier)
Dispose to environment
Effluent analyzing report:
Parameter Avg Quantity in effluent St. value to dischargepH 11 7-8COD 800-1200 Mg/L 29-60Mg/LBOD 800-1200 Mg/L 250-300 Mg/LColor Colored ColorlessPhosphate 8.25 Mg/L 5-15 Mg/LSulphate 1500 Mg/L 1000 Mg/LAmmonia 20-30 Mg/L 4-8 Mg/LChloride 1000-1500 Mg/L 500-600Mg/LTDS 5000 Mg/L 2000 Mg/LTSS 250-300 Mg/L 60-80 Mg/LChlorine 0.25 Mg/L >1 Mg/LSurfactants 30-40 Mg/L 0.5-2 Mg/LSludge(wet) 800 Ml/1/2hr
Ref: USPEA(United States Environment Protection Agency)IWRA(Gnternational Water Resources Association)GOB(Govt. Of Bangladesh)
Product Quality Checked:
o Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)o Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)o Total suspended solidso Total dissolved solidso Coloro pH etc
Chemicals Used in ETP:
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o Ferrous-Sulphate-(FeSO4-7H2O)o Hydrochloric-Acid (HCL)o Limeo Polymero Sodium-Hypo-Chloride (NaOCl)o Urea-Fertilizer
CHAPTER-10STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL
Inventory system for raw material:In Micro Fibre Ltd.. there are different inventory systems for different raw materials.
Grey fabrics store:All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store, near the batch section. Different types
of fabrics arc listed in the sheet according to the fabric types, quantity & consumer’srequirements. Fabrics GSM, shrinkage, diameter & other properties are also taken intoconsideration. The batches are prepared by taking the required fabrics from the grey store. Atpresent the grey fabrics store of Esquire Knit composite Ltd. containing the following types offabrics-1. Single jersey 2. Fleece 3. 1 x 1 Rib 4. Melange 5. 2 x 2 Rib 6. Pique7. Single Jersey( With lycra attachment) 8. 1 x 1 Rib (with lycra attachment)8.2x iRib
Dyes & chemicals store:There is a different time for dyes & chemicals Various types of dyes & chemicals arc
stored here according to the dyes & chemical company. Different types of dyes & chemicals arelisted in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes & chemicals are also included. Everyday the sheet is updated & a copy of this sheet is supplied to the AGM (production), Dye house& lab section.
Spares:In Micro Fibre Ltd. required amount of spares of different machines are stored in the
mechanical store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical& maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according to their size, quantity& requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts.
Finished goods:Micro Fibre Ltd. supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So dyed
finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the delivered fabrics are
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noted on the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity, fabrics diameter, buyers name, color &considering other technical parameters.
Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods etc. There is not
enough space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store area. The store forinventory control is satisfactory. Sometime, they fluctuate from ideal process otherwise they areok
CHAPTER-11COST ANALYSIS
The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in Micro Fibre Ltd.
1. Total dyes & chemical cost2. Total utility cost3. Salary4. Payment5. Transport cost6. Lunch7. Entertainment cost8. Miscellaneous cost9. Government cash incentive
Price of the product: Not provided
Costing of the product: Not provided
Remarks:
The costing of the product is a secret matter of the Ind. They are not interested to flash upthe cost related data. So we could not collect the price of product & costing of the product.
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CHAPTER-12MARKETING ACTIVITIES
Consumers of Product:Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this
industry are exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers are given below-
Name of buyer:01.C&A02. H&M03. ZARA04. TESCO05. TCHTBU06. JORDACHE07. HOFLER08. MASCOT09. Liam David Ltd.(BHS)10. CELIO11. Loom Fashion Ltd.12. Mim Fashion wear Ltd.13. Marks & Spencer
Product Label:Product label differs from fabric to fabric. The product labels are prepared according to
the quality & the buyer requirements .
Package Size & Label:Package size & label differs from buyer to buyer. The Package size & label are prepared
according to the buyer requirements. Normally the following package sizes are used:-60 x 40 x 40 cm.58 x 33 x 44 / 43 / 42 cm.58 x 33 x 25 cm.58 x 33 x 13 / 16 / 18 cm.
Local Market:Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this
industry are exported into various foreign countries . So, goods are not supplied into local
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market.But when garments are rejected by buyer,then the rejected garments are sold in localmarket.
Importing countries:There are some countries which are importing goods from Micro Fibre Ltd. The name of
the countries are given below-• Spain• Germany• Denmark• Europe• Denmark• Europe Union• United State of America
Manpower of marketing:Marketing plays a vital role in the field of displaying / showing the goods criteria of the
products to the buyer & to communicate with the buyer. There are about 15 people in themarketing section of the industry.
Marketing strategy:Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the
marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case of garmentsmarketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor.
In Micro Fibre Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officials deal withthe buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuouslyall over the year. The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buyinghouses to collect the orders.
Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer:
Dealing with the buyer & convince the buyer is the main duty of marketing officer. Amarketing officer also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a marketingofficer are given bellow-
• To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer• To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers• To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer &merchandisers
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• To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses• Communicate with better criteria of the products
Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer &ends after receiving foods by the buyer. So, he should be always smart, energetic & sincere.
Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. has a well learned marketing & merchandising team. They always
communicate with the buyers. Micro Fibre Ltd. has some fixed buyers. The marketing sectionalso looks for the quality & quantity buyers.
CHAPTER -13CONCLUSION
Technical education and its adoption in practical field we involved inextricably, without theimplementation of the knowledge gathered in technical education its success is bound to suffer.
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Therefore, this one and half long industrial attachment as a partial fulfillment of our B.Sc inTextile Technology course helped us to accomplish the gap between theoretical and practicalknowledge by providing an elementary idea about industrial environment processing machines,tools and equipments, production system and maintenance, administration and managementsystem.
The completion of the two months Industrial Attachment at Micro Fibre Ltd. we have gotthe impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit composite complex inBangladesh. Though it was established few years ago, it has earned ‘very good reputation’ for itsbest performance over many other export oriented textile mills. We have also understood thatMicro Fibre Ltd. cares a lot about there quality. During our Training period we have rarely seenfaulty dyeing. If there was any problem it was quickly removed with the help of experienced andskilled production manager. During this period we have never seen any striping of color fromfabric; though for this we couldn’t learn how stripping is done but it we think it is good forindustry. The quality of dyed fabric is very good. In testing lab we have seen the most dyed batchhas wash fastness 4-5. After dyeing the strength was well over of buyer’s requirement. Above allthis quality was maintained with using least amount of chemicals.
There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge
Some Suggestions:
- More skilled labor should be used in a project and the overall efficiency willincrease.
- The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance shouldbe carried out when the m/c is out of action (wherever possible) and routinemaintenance should be carried out regularly.
- There should be a spinning project then Micro Fibre Ltd. will not have to buy yarnfrom outside hence a lot money will be saved.
- The job environment of production office should be much better.- Merchandising section should be much responsible about the whole order.
Limitations of the Report:
- We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more details it was notpossible to do so.
- Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not available.
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- The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, henceour effort spent on summarizing them.
Lastly:
We tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that within this shortperiod it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole this industrial training was asatisfactory one and once again wed would like to thank the authority of Micro Fibre Ltd. aswell as our honorable teachers far their altruistic help and advice. We are fortunate enough thatwe have got an opportunity to have training in this mill. During the training period we havereceived enough co-operation and association from the authority and found all personnel. Allstuffs and officers were very sincere and devoted their duties to achieve their goal.