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Ice Climbing/Alpinism Rock Climbing

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About Ice Climbing

Ice climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from

flows of water. For the purposes of climbing, ice can be broadly divided into two spheres, alpine ice and water ice. Alpine ice is found in a mountain environment, usually requires an approach to reach, and is often climbed in an attempt to summit a mountain. Water ice is usually found on a cliff or other outcropping beneath water flows. Alpine ice is frozen precipitation whereas water ice is a frozen liquid flow of water. Most alpine ice is generally one component of a longer routes and often less technical, have more in common with standard glacier travel, while water ice is selected largely for its technical challenge. Still technical grade is independent of ice type and both types of ice vary greatly in consistency according to weather conditions. Ice can be soft, hard, brittle or tough.Click here to watch a video.

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Ice Climbing Gear

Ice Axes Protection

Crampons Clothing

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Ultimate Goal – Mount EverestMount Everest is the ultimate goal for many climbers and alpinists from all around the world. It stands at 8848m (29029ft) making it the highest point on Earth above sea level. Although not a technically difficult climb the sheer altitude presents a risk of death for even the most accomplished alpinists. 5% of all people who go up do not make it down actually making it one of the safest mountains in the Himalayas. The worst disaster was in 1996 where 8 climbers died on the 11 May alone making it the single most deadly year in the mountain’s history.

Climbing Mount Everest can cost up to £50000 for all of the gear, flights and hire of the Sherpas. Typically, it is climbed in Spring and most climbers will spend no more than 30 minutes on top of the world before attempting the most dangerous part of the climb, the descent. The first summit was in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. They are the first recorded ascenders of the mountain although some believe that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine may have ascended in 1924 but perished on the descent providing no evidence of a summit.

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Grading Ice ClimbsIce climbing has a number of grading systems. The WI numeric scale measures the difficulty of routes on water ice; the M scale measures the difficulty of mixed climbs combining ice and rock. The WI scale currently spans grades from 1–7.

WI2 - low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one ice axe. Grades beyond this generally require the use of two ice tools.WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres WI4 - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances WI5 - near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests WI6 - vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. 30–60 metres) with no rests. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness WI7 - sustained and overhanging with no rests. Extremely rare, near-mythical, and widely accepted testpiece examples of this grade don't exist in the Canadian Rockies.

Mixed climbs have recently been climbed and graded as high as M14.M1-3: Easy. Low angle; usually no tools.M4: Slabby to vertical with some technical dry tooling.M5: Some sustained vertical dry tooling.M6: Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling.M7: Overhanging; powerful and technical dry tooling; less than 10 m of hard climbing.M8: Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7.M9: Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.M10: At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.M11: A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof.M12: M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.

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Places to Ice Climb

Ben Nevis North face

Cairngorms

Glencoe

Snowdon

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Ice AxesThe ice axe pictured on the left is a technical ice axe and is used for demanding climbs involving near vertical or vertical ice walls that would simply be too difficult for general mountaineering ice axe. The curved shaft allows more power to be generated from a smaller swing and they often have small hammers on the back known as an adze which aids placing of protection.Well known brands include Black Diamond and Petzl.

General Mountaineering ice axes such as the one pictured left are used for moderate mountain routes but are not suitable for technical ice climbs. They are used for self arrests in case of a slip and are generally 50-80 cm long depending on the height of the user. There is a spike on the bottom which can be used as an aid for balance on steeper ice similar to that of a walking pole.Well known brands include Grivel and Black Diamond .

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CramponsCrampons are an essential part of gear for any serious mountaineering challenges. There a range of crampons from walking up to grade W VII ice climbs. The number of spikes varies depending on the activity being undertaken. Walking crampons commonly have 8-10 spikes with no front pointing ones and so are not suitable for anything more than a moderate gradient. These are also more flexible than climbing crampons and can be fitted to any good walking boot. Stiffer crampons with front pointing spikes can have as many as 14 points to gain as much traction as possible

on steep ice. These crampons can only be fitted to specialised mountaineering boots used for challenging alpine ascents through to super technical ice climbs.Crampons are given a rating on which boots they can be fitted to known as the C rating. It ranges from 1-3 and corresponds to the B rating given to boots which also ranges from 1-3. For example a C2 rated crampon can be used with a B2 or B3 boot but not a B1 boot. The boot rating must always be either equal to or above the crampon rating. Common makes of crampons consist of Grivel and Black Diamond.

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ProtectionIce screws are used to screw into the ice to provide a stable anchoring point to which you can attach the rope to protect against a fall. They come in various lengths depending on the thickness of the ice. They have a large handle to which can be easily screwed even with gloves on. A 5cm screw is enough to hold body weight but now they commonly come in sizes as large as 25cm. The best make of these is Black Diamond.

Ice Pitons are used as another way to secure the rope to the ice. They are inserted into the ice by hammering them in with the tool on the back of the ice axe called the adze. A quick draw is then clipped on to the loop of webbing and the rope is attached. Ice pitons are not as commonly used as ice screws but are best made by Black Diamond.

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ClothingTechnical clothing is essential for any activity involving ice and snow. It prevents frostbite and hypothermia and keeps you warm when on the mountain whether you are trekking or ice climbing.The best makes include Rab, Mountain Equipment, Berghaus and North Face.

Sturdy mountaineering boots are a crucial part of kit for any ice climbing expedition. Look for the B rating to find an appropriate crampon to fit the boot. For example a B2 rated boot can take a C1 or C2 crampon but not a C3 crampon. Look out for brands like Scarpa and La Sportiva

Your hands lose heat extremely quickly and can be prone to frostbite so a good pair of gloves are essential. They can also help to keep a firm grip on your ice axe. Invest in an expensive brand such as Mountain Equipment or Black Diamond and they will last for years.

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AlpinismAlpinism is a mix of high level walking, glacier travel and technical ice climbs. It is commonly used as a method to climb a hard summit such as those in the Alps through to those in the Himalayas. Camps are made along the way as these are often multiday excursions. All of the gear discussed in the ice climbing section of this site is essential for making a successful summit bid on any major summit. It is often also mixed with rock climbing making alpinism an extremely demanding activity requiring strenuous efforts at altitudes where there is sometimes only half of the oxygen there is at sea level. This makes alpinism a dangerous sport with many risks involved even on what seems to be a relatively easy ascent.

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Ben Nevis North FaceBen Nevis is an extremely popular are for rock and ice climbing being the tallest mountain in the British Isles. The north face is one of Scotland's foremost venues for winter mountaineering and ice climbing, and holds snow until quite late in the year; in a good year, routes may remain in winter condition until mid-spring. Most of the possible rock routes are also suitable as winter climbs, including the four main ridges; Tower Ridge, for example, is grade IV on the Scottish winter grading system, having been upgraded in 2009 by the Scottish

Mountaineering Club after requests by the local Mountain Rescue Team, there being numerous incidents every winter season. Probably the most popular ice climb on Ben Nevis is The Curtain (IV,5) on the left side of the Càrn Dearg Buttress. At the top end of the scale, Centurion in winter is a grade VIII,8 face climb.

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GlencoeThe areas around Fort William and Glen Coe are generally considered as the finest winter mountaineering/ice climbing venues in the United Kingdom. Some of the winter routes through the Glen Coe are world-class. Point Five Gully is one of the most famous ice gullies in the world. Glen Coe valley is a U- shaped glaciated valley near Fort William. As such it has many ridges and gullies which under winter

conditions develops large snow drifts and thick ice making it a hotspot for alpinism and mountaineering. There are many world class ice climbing route with levels up to a W IV.Many undiscovered gullies are dotted throughout the valley making it an ideal place for solitude and discovering your own routes.

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CairngormsThe area is so called because of the three North facing corries: Coire Cas (ski-runs), Coire an t'Sneachda and Coire an Lochain. There is fine summer and winter climbing to be had in both Coure an t'Sneachta and Coire an Lochain ranging from the lowest grades to the highest. This depth and breadth of available routes means that there is something for everyone here and the corries are rarely deserted.

Classic routes in Coire and Lochain include The Vent (III) and Satan's Slit (S). The corrie itself is very accessible and there's a broad range of winter and summer options. If the weather's good this is an excellent place to climb mountains. Climbing in Coire an t'Sneachda includes classic routes include Jacob's Ladder (I), Aladin’s Mirror (I).

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VERTICAL LIMITSnowdon

Snowdon is the highest mountain in England and Wales and stands at 1085m. Its height and beauty make it a sought after peak. Winter ascents of Snowdon can make fine winter mountaineering or climbing objectives. Winter conditions can occur any time from October through to April and then ice axe, crampons and the skills to use them are essential for safe travel. All of the classic routes up Snowdon become mountaineering routes in the winter and some of the rock faces makes for excellent ice climbs.

Snowdon can have very unpredictable weather which make winter ascents a challenging prospect even for experienced mountaineers.

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About Ultimate Goal

BoulderingGrades

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Rock Shoes Rope

Protection Harnesses

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITRock Shoes

There are a variety of rock climbing shoes to choose from. Different shoes perform differently on different surfaces and the price range can be vast. Entry level shoes such as those pictured left are priced at around £50 and are ideal for people who are starting out and are not too worried about pushing their grade or ability. They can be used on any surface as a moderate performer and are usually fit loosely around the foot. Makes include Mad Rock and Red Chili.

High performance shoes such as those pictured left are considerably more expensive but also perform much better and are suitable for relatively experienced climbers who are looking to improve their grade. These shoes are normally specialised to one area of climbing such as bouldering or trad. They fit tightly around the foot often being 2 sizes smaller than a street shoe. The Best makes are 5.10, Red Chili and La Sportiva.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITRope

Rope is obviously an essential part of climbing kit unless you are a crazy free climber and there are a multitude of ropes for different purposes and conditions. For climbing dynamic ropes are used as they will stretch with a fall and so reduce risk of whiplash or other injuries. There are 3 main categories of rope. The first is a single rope. This is commonly used in climbing centres and involves tying in to just one fairly thick rope that will support you in fall. The second is a half rope setup which involves tying in to two thinner ropes. This is most frequently used outside for trad climbing in order to reduce the rope drag on the gear to

reduce the risk of gear failure. The ropes take the force of the fall evenly and so your weight is spread. The third setup is using a double rope. This is used when ice climbing and means that you will remain protected in a fall even if you should accidentally cut through the rope with an axe. The most popular makes of rope are Elderid and Beal.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITProtection

Cams as pictured left are used to protect from falls when climbing. They use a camming mechanism which becomes tighter the more force applied. They are ideal for use in parallel cracks.The best makes are Black diamond and Wildcountry. These are the most expensive type of protection costing around £50 each.

Nuts are another type of protection which can be placed in angled cracks by inserting at the widest part and then tugging down. They are not too expensive costing around £12 each and are also made by Wildcountry and Black Diamond. When placed correctly they can withstand huge amounts of force.

Due to their unique hexagonal shape, hexes are the most versatile of the protection. They can be inserted into a variety of different shaped cracks making them an invaluable piece of equipment on any climb. Moderately priced these are also made by Black Diamond and Wildcountry.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITHarness

Harnesses are also a crucial part of gear on any climb whether it be indoor, outdoor or a sport route. Men’s and women’s harnesses differ only in shape but are practically identical except for the name. they often have gear loops on the sides of the harness to allow gear to be clipped to the harness when doing outdoor trad climbs. Good harnesses come with adjustable or even padded leg loops to provide a better cut and be more comfortable. The belay loop at the front should only be used for the belay device and never tying in although it is very strong. They

have adjustable waist buckles as well to provide a more comfortable fit. Super light harnesses as sold by Arcteryx are now also on sale and can weigh as little as 200g which is a huge weight save when on longer multiday routes but does not have the durability of it’s heavier counterparts. The best makes of harnesses include Wildcountry, Black Diamond and Arcteryx and prices range from £30 to £130.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITAbout

Rock climbing is considered to be an extreme sport which involves using the hands and feet to ascend a rock. Traditional outdoor rock climbing carries a greater risk factor as you must place your own protective gear in the rock as oppose to indoor climbing where fixed ropes are already set up. Rock climbing is very physical sport requiring upper body strength and route planning ability in order to make the most direct route up a rock face or wall.

Rock climbing is growing in popularity as new indoor climbing walls spring up throughout the country and the equipment used becomes safer and cheaper. There are grades for everybody, going from an absolute beginner to the top athletes pushing the limits of human performance. Watch a video here.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITGrades

Different countries have different ways of grading climbs. There is yet to be a standardised worldwide grading system.The lower the grade the easier the climb is and this is familiar with grading all over the world. Some countries have open ended grading systems meaning that there is technically no limit to hard a climb can be except for a human’s ability to climb it. The table on the left shows comparisons between the different countries grading systems so you can directly see what the grade converts to.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITBouldering Back

Bouldering is a form of climbing which takes place on relatively low rock or boulders and is done without a rope with a crash mat for protection if you fall. Many boulder problems are found on severe overhangs and require very dynamic moves to reach the top. Bouldering is used to find the limit of what you climb as it consists of only 4-5 moves to the summit. To finish the problem you either jump off or top out which is simply climbing over the top of the boulder to stand on top. Bouldering has it’s own grading system but is still comparable to normal climbing grades.

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Stanage Ben Nevis North Face

North Wales Lake District

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITBackStanage

Stanage Edge in Derbyshire has a vast array of climbing surfaces including Grit stone. There are a variety of grades to choose from starting at easy and getting progressively harder up to E6! Many of the country’s most famous climbs come from Stanage such as Flying Buttress as pictured bottom left. This is rated as either a HVS (Hard Very Severe) or an E1 (Extreme 1) depending on the grader. For years Stanage has attracted the

countries top climbers such as Leo Holding (he climbs Flying Buttress solo as a warm up). It provides a challenge for many seasoned climbers. As it is trad climbing though there is risk involved and unfortunately there are fatalities each year due to gear failure. This is becoming less frequent though as gear becomes stronger, lighter and more reliable. Whatever grade you climb, Stanage has something to offer and can provide an excellent trip for any climbing enthusiast.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITBackBen Nevis North Face

The many buttresses on the north face of Ben Nevis provides a multitude of long arduous routes which challenge even the most experienced climbers. Deaths occur each year from misplaced gear but the numbers are reducing. The climb Echo Wall was climbed by Dave McLeod but was left ungraded. He said only that ‘it was harder than Rhapsody’. The climb Rhapsody has a grading of E11 and since the first ascent it has been unrepeated so there is nobody else to back up the claim. Many of the routes on Ben Nevis are extremely long and require extreme endurance and contact strength. The routes vary in steepness and grade so anybody who can trad climb can say that they have climbed up Ben Nevis the hard way. Overall it is a very good spot for those looking to improve endurance.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITBackNorth Wales

North Wales is a world class climbing area with some of the most adventurous cragging found anywhere. Many of the crags here are entirely limestone but Grit stone can also be found. The variety of climbing is unrivalled, ranging from long mountain routes in Llanberis Pass, atmospheric sea cliffs at Gogarth, to outrageously good roadside crags at Tremadog. The style of climbing is uniquely British with traditional (leader placed) protection on routes requiring an impressive array of techniques for a clean ascent. There are a range of difficulties in Wales going from absolute beginners to those pushing to limits of human trad climbing ability. Edmond Hillary actually trained on the crags of Snowdon before making the first ascent of Everest.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITBackLake District

Rock climbing in the Lake District is where it all began in the UK. With routes of all levels for experienced climbers or greenhorns, rock climbing in the Lake District has single and multi-pitch routes of both trad and sport climbing. There are numerous climbing shops in the Lake District that will get you sorted with things like chalk, shoes, guide books and everything else you may need. The Eastern Crags and Buttermere have some excellent climbing in more remote conditions. Buttermere is pretty much off the tourist map in a quiet valley. The Eastern Crags have a number of multi-pitch routes on good, well-protected rock. Borrowdale, just south of Keswick, is another hot spot with routes for all levels and some great crags for beginners. Scafell Crag has some of the best long-distance routes in Britain.

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VERTICAL LIMITVERTICAL LIMITUltimate Goal – El Capitan, Yosemite Back

El Capitan is a 3,000-foot (910 m) vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, located on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is one of the world's favourite challenges for rock climbers. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big-wall climbing. "El Cap" has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive prow. While today there are numerous

established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route is The Nose, which follows the massive The Nose. The Nose was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 47 days using "siege" tactics: climbing in an expedition style using fixed ropes along the length of the route, linking established camps along the way. The fixed manila ropes allowed the climbers to ascend and descend from the ground up throughout the 18 month project, although they presented unique levels of danger as well, sometimes breaking due to the long exposure to cold temperatures.

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Ice ClimbingAbout Ice Climbing

Ultimate GoalGrades

Alpinism

GearIce Axes

ClothingCrampons

ProtectionPlaces

Ben NevisCairngorms

SnowdonGlen Coe

Rock ClimbingAbout Rock Climbing

Ultimate GoalGrades

Bouldering

GearRock Shoes

ProtectionRope

HarnessPlaces

Ben NevisStanage

North WalesLake District

VideoRock ClimbingIce Climbing