MD.AZMERI LATIF BEG

MSC. IN TE

IDENTIFICATION OF

TEXTILE FIBERS

Textile Fiber; Fiber is a near microscopic hair-

like substance that may be natural or manmade.

Fibers suitable for textile use possess adequate

length, fineness, strength, and flexibility for yarn

formation and fabric construction, and for

withstanding the intended use of the completed

fabric. Other properties affecting textile fiber

performance include elasticity, crimp (waviness),

moisture absorption, reaction to heat and

sunlight, reaction to the various chemicals

applied during processing and in the dry cleaning

or laundering of the completed fabric, and

resistance to insects and micro-organisms.

INTRODUCTION

A number of methods are available for characterization of

the structural, physical, and chemical properties of fibers.

Various methods are used for fiber identification like

microscopic methods, solubility, heating and burning method,

density and staining etc. End-use property characterization

methods often involve use of laboratory techniques which are

adapted to simulate actual conditions of average wear on the

textile or that can predict performance in end-use.

TYPES OF TEST

The Non technical Test• FEELING TEST• BURNING TEST

The Technical Test• MICROSCOPIC TEST• CHEMICAL TEST

TESTS FOR IDENTIFICATION

Handle/Feel Test

Visual Examination

Burning test

Twist on Drying

Floatation Test

Microscopic analysis

Chemical Analysis

REQUIREMENTS FOR TESTS

Preparation of test specimen Apparatus

for microscopic examination Reagents

used for chemical tests Other tools and

equipment

THE NON-TECHNICAL TESTS

Feeling test

Burning test

FEELING TEST

The feeling test requires perception

if it is to be of any value.

Skilled perception is acquired only

after handling many different fabrics

over a period of time.

Limitations of this test become

apparent when examining and

comparing fabrics of different fiber

content.

BURNING TEST

To recognize the composition of fabrics by the

burning test ,the sample of fiber, yarn of fabric

should be moved slowly towards a small flame

and the reaction to heat carefully

observed .One end of the sample should be put

directly into flame to determine its burning rate

and characteristics. The burning odour should

be noted and the characteristics of the ash

such as amount ,form, hardness and color

should be examined

IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES THROUGH BURNING TEST

Cotton :• When ignited it burns with a steady flame

and smells like burning leaves. The ash lefties easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.

Linen:• Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric

closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.

BURNING TEST

Cotton Fiber Linen Fiber

BURNING TEST

Silk:• It is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not

necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.

Wool • It is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite

than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.

BURNING TEST

Silk Fiber Wool Fiber

MAN MADE FIBERS

Acetate:• Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame

that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips.

Acrylic:• Acrylics burn readily due to the fiber content

and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid or harsh

BURNING TEST

Acrylic FiberAcetate Fiber

BURNING TEST

Nylon: • Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the

flame remains on the melted fiber. If i can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like burning plastic.

Polyester:• Polyester melts and burns at the same

time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard.

BURNING TEST

Polyester Fiber Nylon Fiber

BURNING TEST

Rayon:• It is a regenerated cellulose

fiber which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves

BURNING TEST

Rayon Fiber

FIBER BURN CHART

LIMITATION OF BURNING TEST

It is apparent that many fibers

have similar burning reactions

that might cause doubt and

occasional confusion.

TECHNICAL TESTS

There are certain technical tests performed for

identifying various fibers. These tests require high

technology laboratory equipment and are much more

reliable than the non technical fiber tests.

Technical tests require high skilled personnel and

technical know how of handling chemicals and their

accurate analysis. These tests are very valuable for

those fabrics that are a blend of different yarns and

also have certain special properties including flame

retardance etc.

TYPES OF TECHNICAL TEST

Microscopic test

Chemical test

MICROSCOPIC TEST

Microscopic test is a technical test that involves

identifying the fabric with the help of a microscope

with a magnification of minimum 100 power.

The test can easily distinguish between fibers.

The test identifies the natural fibers more easily as

compared to man made ones.

Synthetic fibers are very similar in appearance and the

increase in the number of varieties, makes it a little

tough to distinguish the fibers even under a microscope

M I C R O S C O P I C T E S T F O R N AT U R A L F I B E R S

COTTON: • It is a single elongated cell. Under the microscope, it

resembles a collapsed, spirally twisted tube with a rough surface.

• The thin cell wall of the fiber has from 200 to 400convolutions per inch.

LINEN:• Under the microscope, the hair like flax fiber

shows several sided cylindrical filaments with fine pointed ends.

• The fiber somewhat resembles a straight, smooth.

MICROSCOPIC TEST

Cotton Fiber Linen fiber

MICROSCOPIC TEST

WOOL:• Under the microscope , wool’s cross

section shows three layers- epidermis, cortex and the medulla.

SILK:• It appears somewhat elliptical and

triangular in cross section when we see under the microscope.

• It is composed of fibroin, consisting of two filaments, called brin which is held together by sericin.

MICROSCOPIC TEST

Silk fiber Wool fiber

M I C R O S C O P I C T E S T F O R M A N M A D E F I B E R S

RAYONS:• Rayon fibers have a glasslike luster under the

microscope and appear to have a uniform diameter when viewed longitudinally.

ACETATE:• The cross sectional view has a bulbous or multi

global appearance with indentations.• These indentations appear as occasional

markings.

MICROSCOPIC TEST

Acetate fiber Rayon fiber

MICROSCOPIC TEST

NYLON:• The basic microscopic appearance is

generally fine ,round, smooth, and translucent.• It is also produced in multilobal cross-

sectional types.

POLYESTERS: • Generally, polyester fibers are smooth and

straight and the cross-section is round.•  This general characteristics may be altered to

achieve certain characteristics.

MICROSCOPIC TEST

Polyester fiberNylon fiber

CHEMICAL TESTSChemical tests are another technical means of

identifying fibers. But chemical tests are not

intended for the general consumers.

Different types of chemical tests are under taken to

establish the identity of the fibers used.

These tests give accurate and precise analysis.

The tests are conducted in research laboratories.

TYPES OF CHEMICAL TEST

Stain Test:• Also known as the Double Barrel Fiber

Identification(DBFI), the test is based on the theory that each fiber has its own distinct two- color reaction when treated with stain. A fiber will turn to a particular color in the presence of dilute acetic acid and to some other specific color when stained in the presence of a mild alkali.

CHEMICAL TEST

Solvent Test:• The test involves treating the fibers in

certain solvents for identifying them. The technical test is becoming difficult to conduct as most of the manufactured fibers and their blends are chemically similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent test for separating or identifying the fibers in combinations.

CHEMICAL TEST

Advantages:•More reliable than the non technical tests.•Used for both man made fibers and natural fibers.•Easily conducted.

Limitations •Certain manufacturing and finishing processes like mercerizing, affects the appearance of the fibers under the microscope.•Very dark colored fabrics cannot be identified under microscope.•Dye stuffs must be removed from fabrics.

THANKS ALL