Hunter gatHererThere’s never been a better time to discover the Hunter Valley’s unique and sensational wines, its passionate makers and incredible hospitality. WORDS Patrick Haddock

80

have a theory that may or may not be true – that Australia’s oldest wine region is seen as a little bit

unfashionable. A bit daggy. The Hunter Valley is one of Australia’s most important grape-growing regions, but also a tourist mecca for vinophiles that is rarely supported outside its home state of NSW. Its wines are just so completely different to counterparts in other wine-growing states.

Despite this perception, a concerted change is blowing in the wind. You can still feel the old-school influence, but the new guard has harnessed tradition and is moving apace with progressive creativity. This is not a region resting on its laurels. A band of next-generation winemakers is making its mark and stylistically pushing the famed varieties with deference to the past, but with a keen eye on the future.

The Hunter Valley can sometimes be seen as Sydney’s vinous theme park – home to 120 wineries, 65 restaurants and more than 180 accommodation options. It’s in easy reach of the big smoke, which means tourists flock there. But the region is also incredibly beautiful. Framed by the Brokenback

Range, the landscape includes gently sloping hills and century-old vineyards that are as picturesque as any winegrowing region in the world.

In recent years, many wineries have also become prolific promoters of concerts – and they pull some big names. Later this year, the Rolling Stones are set to appear, though I doubt when Mick and Keith try the local produce they’ll be warbling, “I can’t get no satisfaction”.

The Hunter is also about survival. While other regions’ wine producers can have seamless vintages, Hunter folk are often at odds with the elements, sparring with viticultural adversity. However, the 2014 vintage was a dream run for the Hunter. Uncharacteristically, no rain meant that quality was assured, particularly with the reds. Some even believe 2014 was a red vintage to rival the legendary 1965. Hyperbole or not, there was tangible excitement as I visited the Hunter. Its makers were revelling in its auspicious vintage wrap-up.

So, how do the local winemakers believe their region is being perceived? Chris Tyrrell of Tyrrell’s Wines agrees it can sometimes be seen as unfashionable, but says this is not such a bad thing.

Iabove (clockwise from top left) The Hunter Valley produces incredibly unique fruit; the region has many special historic spots; the pretty setting at Tinklers; across the stunning valley.

Left The Hunter Valley is one of Australia’s oldest regions, with vineyards of great significance. ➺P

ho

tog

rap

hy

// c

ou

rtes

y H

un

ter

Val

ley

To

uri

sm, T

ou

rism

NSW

an

d T

inkl

ers

hunter valley 81

hunter valley82

“I think the Hunter is old-fashioned in many ways, but we make it a strength by constantly tweaking styles and adapting to improve quality. Mercedes-Benz and Le Creuset cookware, for instance, are both what I’d consider to be old-fashioned, but like us, stay modern at the same time through reinvention and keeping one eye forward to the future, yet never forgetting their roots. The Hunter has a brand equity and wine quality that many regions could only dream of, and I think how we leverage that is what has changed in recent years.”

Sally Scarborough of Scarborough Wine Co. echoes these sentiments. “Sometimes tradition can be confused with old-fashioned and I would be at pains to say that although we embrace our history in the Hunter Valley, we are also one of the most innovative wine tourism areas in Australia,” she says.

Sally acknowledges there’s a development of wine styles across the region, while the focus remains keenly on what they do best. “I think a lot of the new generation of winemakers in the Hunter Valley [when using Hunter fruit] are focusing on the more traditional varieties of the region. I find it is the older, more established brands that are pushing the envelope and playing with new varieties. There is definitely a change in styles with the younger generations coming through.”

Winemaker Usher Tinkler of Tinklers Wine and Crush House also believes there’s transition and evolution.

“You need to be able to sell the wine you make, so you need to adapt somewhat to your buyers,” he says. “You also need to make the experience of wine interesting and fun so it isn’t lost in too much snobbery and appeals to more people. Crush House is developing modern styles as modern winemakers and while we aren’t necessarily sticking to tradition, we are still producing a high-quality product that’s approachable.”

And then there’s experimentation at play with semillon – the region’s flagship wine and arguably Australia’s most unique – which remains a tough sell. Some makers are working with off-dry styles and barrel-fermented versions. This helps to increase the wine’s textural quality and pare back on the searing acidity that can make semillon such a hard sell in its youth.

“Here at Tyrrell’s and the Hunter generally, there has almost been a reinventing of the wheel that has seen us go from strength to strength,” Chris says of their work with semillon. This has included the addition of a more textural style with Johnno’s Semillon. “It is from a 106-year-old vineyard that is hand-picked, basket-pressed, naturally settled without the aid of enzymes and fermented with natural yeast. This is an innovation – finally something [grandfather] Murray Tyrrell would be proud of!”

Alternative varieties are emerging across the Hunter, such as barbera and fiano, and experimentation is also seen with a number of side projects.

Hart & Hunter Twenty Six Rows Chardonnay 2013

Brokenwood Mistress Block Shiraz 2011

tyrrell’s HVd Single Vineyard Semillon 2009

keitH tullocH Tawarri Shiraz 2011

andrew tHomas Elenay Shiraz 2011

BallaBourneen Gamay Noir 2014

meerea Park Alexander Munro Shiraz 2009

tinkler Reserve Semillon 2014

de iuliis LDR Shiraz 2011

margan Barbera 2012

tullocH JYT Shiraz 2013

gundog estate Wild Semillon 2014

mistletoe Reserve Chardonnay 2011

Not HEADING to tHE HUNtER? For a TasTe oF THe region, Here are some Top wines To Try...

DE

C 2

014

/JA

N 2

015

ww

w.w

inec

om

pan

ion

.co

m.a

u

83P

ho

tog

rap

hy

// c

ou

rtes

y H

un

ter

Val

ley

To

uri

sm, T

yrel

l’s W

ines

/ A

lam

y

➺

above (top) Chris Tyrell, winemaker at Tyrell’s Wines; (bottom) stop in for a tasting at Pepper Tree Wines.

opposite A very Australian outlook.

Daniel Binet of Ballabourneen recently released wines under Domaine De Binet, while Andrew Leembruggen of Crush House has his own label, Andevine.

In terms of innovators, Krinklewood is pushing the biodynamic buttons, also offering workshops on all things lunar- and vine-related, while Richie Harkam at Harkham Winery is making minimal-intervention wines that are kosher-friendly. And the original terroirist Andrew Thomas continues to strive for perfection in semillon and shiraz. A recent retrospective tasting of the past 10 vintages of his Thomas Braemore Semillon under screwcap showed captivating versions, young and old. The new 2014 Braemore should be on your radar – put in the cellar or drink it now. Or both.

But it’s not just the wine reeling in the visitors – the local produce and venues serving delicious fare are creating a haven for foodies too. One trailblazer is Troy Rhoades-Brown who runs Muse at Hungerford Hill, as well as Muse Kitchen at Keith Tulloch Wine. This is one busy chef – just following his social media updates is exhausting as he also caters for private events and weddings.

One venue harnessing the kitchen garden mentality and using the freshest produce is Restaurant Botanica, with chef Mark Stapleton a passionate advocate of the “from grass to the pass” philosophy. Most herbs and vegetables used are from their property, ensuring what’s on the plate is as full of terroir as what’s in the accompanying glass. Mark’s wife and Restaurant Botanica’s

Gundog Estatewww.gundogestate.com.au

Ballabourneenwww.ballabourneen.com.au

Harkham Winerywww.harkhamwine.com

Brokenwoodwww.brokenwood.com.au

Tulloch Wineswww.tullochwines.com

Bimbadgen Estate www.bimbadgen.com.au

De Iuliis Wines www.dewine.com.au

Meerea Parkwww.meereapark.com.au

Tyrrell’s Wines www.tyrrells.com.au

Scarborough Wine Co.www.scarboroughwine.com.au

Keith Tulloch Wine www.keithtullochwine.com.au

cellar DooRs to vIsIt

i THink THe HunTer is old-FasHioned in many ways, buT we make iT a sTrengTH by ConSTAnTly TWEAKInG STylES and ADAPTInG To IMProVE quAlITy.Chris Tyrrell / winemaker / tyrrell’s wines

sommelier Belinda says that after moving from a Sydney CBD venue, they wanted to take advantage of their space. “If we can grow it, we do,” she says. “Vegetables are not the major focal point of our menu, but we believe that fresh, homegrown produce as a background or balancing act to the main ingredient is a must.”

Their food is complemented by a thoughtful wine list, focusing on local wines, but also offering global alternatives. “For us, the biggest homegrown ingredient we can use and promote is the wine,” Belinda says. “We are in Australia’s oldest and most visited wine region and for us, this is our focus. There is so much history in our region that I can’t help feel a sense of pride every time I open a bottle of Hunter Valley wine.”

Another paddock-to-plate advocate is US chef George Francisco, who is heading up Roberts Circa 1876. “The food philosophy at Roberts is built around my endeavour to set up a sustainable restaurant,” he says. “We are easily ‘paddock to plate’, but I am really striving to go beyond that and create a restaurant that can support itself. We are growing a large percentage of our vegetables and fruit. Our eggs come from our organic chickens. Our honey comes from our bees. I source many ingredients from within the estate and others from

local farmers within 5km of our restaurant.” This place is a must for the foodie’s itinerary.

As for cellar door experiences, the world is your oyster with old and new, big and small. One visitor favourite is Tulloch Wines, which won Cellar Door of the Year at this year’s Hunter Legends and Wine Industry Awards. They may have a history stretching back 150 years, but this family winery is constantly reinventing the way they sell their story.

The allure of food and wine in the region is nicely balanced by an abundance of golf courses, health spas and gardens, plus accommodation to match a range of budgets. Put that together with varied architecture and unique history and you’ve got more than a few reasons to plan a road trip.

There is also an obvious camaraderie in the Hunter, with winemakers swapping ideas, tasting each other’s wines and drinking from all over to share their knowledge from generation to generation.

But perhaps Chris Tyrrell should have the final say on what’s so special about the region. “The people – its a simple as that. There is no other region like it,” he says. “None of us take life too seriously, we love drinking wines from other regions and learning, and we are all striving to make the best wines in the country.”

hunter valley

restaurant Botanicawww.spicersretreats.com/dining

Muse/Muse Kitchenwww.musedining.com.au

Esca at Bimbadgenwww.bimbadgen.com.au

Margan restaurant www.margan.com.au/restaurant

Bistro Molineswww.bistromolines.com.au

roberts Circa 1876www.robertscirca1876.com

Manager’s quarters, Keith Tulloch Winewww.keithtullochwine.com.au

The Carriageswww.thecarriages.com.au

Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley www.crowneplazahuntervalley.com.au

Spicers retreatwww.spicersretreats.com.au

WHERE to eat

WHERE to stay

piCtUReD (clockwise from left) The vineyards at Tulloch; one of many choices for a lingering meal in the region; Tulloch’s cellar door.

DE

C 2

014

/JA

N 2

015

ww

w.w

inec

om

pan

ion

.co

m.a

u

Ph

oto

gra

ph

y //

co

urt

esy

Tu

lloch

an

d T

ou

rism

NSW

/ K

atri

na

Ho

lden

84

Where to ...

85

HUNtER toURING WItH kIDstHe Hunter Valley Has stacks of oPtions to keeP tHe little ones entertained, wHicH means HaPPy wine touring awaits.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY katrina Holden

Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley has villa options, a casual kid-friendly bistro and kids’ activities on-site. The mini train that does laps of the grounds will delight too. There is also a kid’s club where hotel guests can leave children for a few hours for a kid-free escape to a winery or two.

Potters Hotel Brewery Resort is also a great option, with tennis courts, a pool and 11 acres of landscaped gardens. The bistro and brewery open out to the grounds, so you can keep an eye on the kids as you relax. Self-contained accommodation is a logical choice – try the Starline Alpacas, with several modern cottages on a working alpaca farm. The kids will love interacting with the alpacas and there’s also a pool, tennis court, playground and decked barbecue area.

Get your coffee fix at Cafe Enzo. They serve Campos Coffee and are at Pepper’s Creek Village, complete with a courtyard for the kids to play in, or an open fireplace in winter to stay warm. Here you’ll also find David Hook Wines cellar door and an antique store to browse.

If the kids need space to run around, head to Two Fat Blokes Gourmet Kitchen. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and all-day Devonshire teas, with a great outdoor area. Their Euro deli section even sells fresh produce where you can buy a gourmet picnic pack. Located at De Iuliis Wines, this may buy you enough time to check out the on-site art gallery and taste their award-winning wines.

The recently opened cafe at Simply D’vine Garden and Gift gallery at the Nulkaba nursery in Pokolbin is popular with locals, with good coffee and gourmet treats in a nursery setting. The Tempus Two complex on Broke Road offers several family-friendly dining options, including Oishii Japanese, while their Goldfish Cocktail Lounge will keep everyone happy as it has a good kid’s menu too.Harrigan’s Irish Pub offers good pub grub, but for finer dining options, Muse Kitchen at Keith Tulloch Wines has a grassy courtyard offering the ideal distraction for kids. The same can be said for Chef’s Hatted Emerson’s Cafe and Restaurant with its huge lawn area – take a ball and make time to settle in. It’s a great breakfast option.

For a foodie fix, try the local cheese shops, including Binnorie Dairy, Hunter Valley Cheese Factory and the Hunter Valley Smelly Cheese Shop. The Hunter Valley Chocolate Company has a viewing window where you can see the treats being made. And at Tinklers Produce, kids can learn about the source of their food while you can buy seasonal fruits, vegetables, jams and preserves.

The Hunter Valley Zoo has a great range of interactive options for kids – watch strutting peacocks, feed the animals or pat the koalas. The Hunter Valley Gardens is a must-stop for kids any time of year. During winter, they host a snow-themed festival with ice skating and toboggan rides, and if visiting in summer, don’t miss the dazzling Christmas lights. At any time of year, the manicured gardens provide a great picnic spot with electric barbecues, a playground and putt-putt golf.

piCtUReD (clockwise from top left) The dessert at Muse Kitchen will keep everyone happy; the cheese cabinet at Two Fat Blokes; little ones can enjoy the space at Emerson’s Cafe and restaurant; watch as the goodies are made at The Hunter Valley Chocolate Company.

STAY EA

T

PLAY