history of women's dress and clothing in egypt
TRANSCRIPT
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Egypt s ees its e lf, and is s een, as part of Africa and als o the Middle Eas t.
The Mus lim Arab invas ion of 640-2 was followed by a very gradual convers ion to Is lam. Nominally part of the Ottoman Empire from 1517 – 1914, Egypt was brie fly invaded by the French in 1798/9, and fought over by the Britis h. In the early 19th
century, nationalis t ruler Mohammed Ali initiated a major modernis ation programme. Egypt was occupied by the Britis h in 1882, a s overeign s tate in 1922,
and the Britis h finally le ft after World War II. In 1952 the monarchy was overthrown.
Egypt has a population of 70 million, 90% Mus lim and 10% Coptic Chris tian, o ther Chris tian and Jews . Minority e thnic groups inc lude Nubians , Bedouins , and Arab
and Nilotic nomads .
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Dre s s His tory Dre s s His tory
A we a lth o f im a g e s e xis ts o f wom e n in P h a ra onic , G re e k a nd R om a n E g ypt, but A we a lth o f im a g e s e xis ts o f wom e n in P h a ra onic , G re e k a nd R om a n E g ypt, but from 4th to 18th c e nturie s AD a lm os t none . Th e uppe r, urba n c la s s e s during th e from 4th to 18th c e nturie s AD a lm os t none . Th e uppe r, urba n c la s s e s during th e
Ottom a n E m pire would h a ve worn s imila r s tyle s to th os e in Turke y. Th e vis ua l re c ord of Ottom a n E m pire would h a ve worn s imila r s tyle s to th os e in Turke y. Th e vis ua l re c ord of th e va rie ty of dre s s in E g ypt s ta rts with th e e a rly E urope a n tra ve lle rs .th e va rie ty of dre s s in E g ypt s ta rts with th e e a rly E urope a n tra ve lle rs .
R ic ha rd P ococke ’s pa inting s a re a quirky thoug h re lia ble re cord of dre s s in 1737 – ordina ry wome n, da nce rs , a nd a woma n on a donke y.
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Early 16th century Cairo
“Wome n’s fa s h ions a re luxurious a nd th e y g o out a dorne d with je we lle ry: th e s e wom e n a re pre te ntious a nd pa y g re a t a tte ntion to h e a rs a y, to th e e xte nt th a t, if a ny one o f th e m wh o re fus e s to we a ve , s titc h or c ook, h e r h us ba nd h a s no c h oic e but to buy re a dy c ooke d food. F e w pe ople c ook th e ir food a t h om e , e xc e pt la rg e fa milie s … Th e wom e n e n joy g re a t fre e dom a nd inde pe nde nc e . Wh e n th e h us ba nd g oe s out to h is s h op, h is wife g e ts dre s s e d a nd pe rfum e d, a nd ride s h e r donke y to le is ure in th e town, vis iting h e r re la tive s a nd frie nds .”
al-Hasan al-Wazzani, Leo Africanus
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Th is p ic ture proba b ly g ive s a m os t re a lis tic , le s s rom a ntic is e d, portra ya l o f Th is p ic ture proba b ly g ive s a m os t re a lis tic , le s s rom a ntic is e d, portra ya l o f Ca iro h a re m dre s s in th e m id 19th ce ntury be c a us e th e pa inte r wa s a wom a n wh o s pe nt Ca iro h a re m dre s s in th e m id 19th ce ntury be c a us e th e pa inte r wa s a wom a n wh o s pe nt
s om e m onth s in Ca iro – th e Am e ric a n a rtis t Ma rg a re tta B urr.s om e m onth s in Ca iro – th e Am e ric a n a rtis t Ma rg a re tta B urr.
IInterior of a Hareem, 1846, Women Art and Society, Whitney Chadwick, 1996nterior of a Hareem, 1846, Women Art and Society, Whitney Chadwick, 1996
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Typica l outdoor dre s s worn by wom e n g oing to th e h a m a m (pub lic ba th s ).
Cairo, late 19th century, H Béchard
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““Ve iling a nd th e h a re m s ys te m we re s oc ia l Ve iling a nd th e h a re m s ys te m we re s oc ia l c onve ntions c onne c te d with e c onom ic s ta nding . c onve ntions c onne c te d with e c onom ic s ta nding . Th e y h a d noth ing wh a ts oe ve r to do with Is la m .”Th e y h a d noth ing wh a ts oe ve r to do with Is la m .”
Introduction to Huda Shaarawi’s Harem Years, Margot Badran, 1986Introduction to Huda Shaarawi’s Harem Years, Margot Badran, 1986
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Lowe r c la s s working wome n of Ca iro, e a rly 20th c e ntury.Postcard
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“E g yptia n dre s s c a n be roug h ly d ivide d in two m a jor s ubdivis ions : th a t worn by th e m a s s e s of th e “tra d itiona l” s oc ia l c la s s e s , both rura l a nd urba n, a nd th a t worn by th e e duc a te d, m os tly urba n, c la s s e s . Th e firs t is a d is tinc tive ly na tive E g yptia n dre s s a nd th e s e c ond c orre s ponds in g e ne ra l fe a ture s with inte rna tiona l s tyle s . One wa y to d is ting uis h th e s e two s tyle s is to c a ll th e m “tra d itiona l” a nd “m ode rn” wh ic h in e s s e nc e is h ow m a ny E g yptia ns th ink o f th e m . To m a ke s uc h e a s y d is tinc tions , h owe ve r, g los s e s ove r th e fa c t th a t both a re conte m pora ry s tyle s a nd both inc lude ma ny fe a ture s th a t a re c ontinuous ly in th e proc e s s o f c h a ng e . B oth a ls o fo llow c e rta in c onve ntions th a t h a ve e xis te d for long pe riods o f time in E g yptia n s oc ie ty.”
Reveal and Conceal – Dress in Contemporary Egypt, Andrea B. Rugh, 1986
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We a lth ie r wom e n o f Ca iro would a lwa ys h a ve h a d a c h oic e o f c lo th e s – b oth indoor a nd outdoor – c le a rly s e e n in
s h oe s a nd ve ils .
Orna me nte d b la ck ve ils . Only th e one on th e rig h t is re pre s e nte d in its wh ole le ng th .
Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians, E. W. Lane, 1836
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Ca s ting His E ye – a little come dy outs ide th e ra ilwa y s ta tion in Ca iro. c . 1905.
Oriental Cairo, Douglas Sladen, 1911
P os tca rd, Edition P.Coustoulides, Alexandria, Egypt, c 1900. “Egyptian Humour,” 2nd
series, No. 5
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Duriya F a h mi, fe minis t inte lle c tua l a nd write r (le ft), with frie nds , Ca iro, 1919-20.
coll. Mona Fikri, Daughters of the Nile, ed. Hind Wassef and Nadia Wassef, 2001
Ca ire ne wome n a t He liopolis ra ce s , 1938.
Thos. Cook and Sons, Women of All Lands, 1939
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“Th e burko ’ (fa c e ve il) a nd s h oe s a re m os t c ommon in Ca iro, a nd a re a ls o worn by ma ny o f th e wome n th roug h out Lowe r
E g ypt; but in Uppe r E g ypt, th e burko ’ is ve ry s e ldom s e e n, a nd s h oe s a re s c a rc e ly le s s unc om mon. To s upply th e p la c e o f th e forme r, wh e n ne c e s s a ry, a portion o f th e tarhah is dra wn be fore th e fa c e , s o a s to c onc e a l ne a rly a ll th e c ounte na nc e e xc e pting one e ye . Ma ny o f th e wome n of th e lowe r orde rs , e ve n in th e
m e tropolis , ne ve r c onc e a l th e ir fa c e s .”
Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians, Edward William Lane, 1836
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Huda S h a ´ra wi pub lic ly re m ove d h e r ve il a t Ca iro s ta tion in 1923 a fte r re turning from a n inte rna tiona l fe m in is t c onfe re nc e in R om e . Alth oug h th is s ym bolic g e s ture h a d m a s s ive re ve rbe ra tions in Ca iro a nd be yond, for th e fellāhī n (E g yptia n pe a s a nt), Mus lim or Copt,
it wa s life a s us ua l.
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Coptic villa g e wome n of Uppe r E g ypt vis iting th e g ra ve s of th e ir de a d re la tive s in th e ir Coptic ce me te ry on Yom e l-Gh ita s , 1920-26.
Fellāhī n of Upper Egypt, Winifred S. Blackman, 1927
““Th e m ode rn Copt h a s be c om e from Th e m ode rn Copt h a s be c om e from h e a d to foot, in m a nne rs , la ng ua g e , h e a d to foot, in m a nne rs , la ng ua g e ,
a nd s pirit, a Mos le m , h owe ve r unwilling a nd s pirit, a Mos le m , h owe ve r unwilling h e m a y be to re c og nis e th e fa c t. His h e m a y be to re c og nis e th e fa c t. His
dre s s is like th a t o f th e re s t o f th e dre s s is like th a t o f th e re s t o f th e pe ople , e xc e pt h e pre fe rs da rke r pe ople , e xc e pt h e pre fe rs da rke r
m a te ria ls .”m a te ria ls .”
Upper Egypt – its people and its products, C.B. Klunzinger, 1878
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Women in Political StruggleWomen in Political StruggleAc ce pta b le , re s pe c ta b le dre s s for wome n,
m a inly Mus lim a nd m iddle -c la s s , is re fle c te d in th e m a ny ima g e s o f wom e n involve d in
politic a l a nd s oc ia l c h a ng e .
Veiled women addressing a crowd in a Cairo street, 1919.INP news agency
““We a ring th e ve il d id not s top us doing th ing s .”We a ring th e ve il d id not s top us doing th ing s .”
regarding the 1919 Revolution, Margot Badran, 1986regarding the 1919 Revolution, Margot Badran, 1986
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“Na tiona lis m , in E g ypt a s e ls e wh e re in th e Ara b world, wa s th e ke y to th e le g itima c y of th e wom e n’s m ove m e nt in th e e ye s of both politic ia ns a nd th e pub lic .”
Images of Women, Sarah Graham-Brown, 1988
Ara b Wome n’s Cong re s s , Ca iro, 1938.
Keystone, Women of All Lands, 1939
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Huda S h a ‘ra wi with m e m be rs
o f th e E g yptia n F e minis t Union, 1940s .
Hawa’ al-gadida, Daughters of the Nile, 2001
Ce le bra ting politica l rig h ts g a ine d, 1956. Wome n a re ca rrying pos te rs of Huda S h a ‘ra wi a nd Umm S a be r, the firs t E g yptia n woma n ‘ma rtyr’ kille d by th e B ritis h in 1919.
Hawa’ al-gadida, Daughters of the Nile, 2001
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Mode s a nd Code sMode s a nd Code s
“The re turn of the ve il, with a ve nom, in conte mpora ry E g ypt s pe a ks volume s . We s te rn vis itors mis ta ke nly a s s ume tha t the fe ma le Is la mic dre s s code is the tra ditiona l dre s s of E g yptia n wome n. While h is torica lly, the Is la mic dre s s code ha s influe nce d fa s h ion in E g ypt, the re is no s uch th ing a s a unive rs a l Is la mic uniform.
He a d-cove ring , the hijab, a s a form of re s is ta nce to We s te rn cultura l he g e mony is a re la tive ly ne w phe nome non. It g a ve a n e ntire ly ne w me a ning to ide ntity politics . The niqab h a s a ls o be come a s ymbol for communica tion, or la ck of it. An inc re a s ing numbe r of urba n wome n now s hroud the ms e lve s in s ha pe le s s g owns in mute d colours or s e ve re b la ck.”
No question of costume, Gamal Nkrumah, Al Ahram Weekly,
September 2002
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Th e dre s s of mode rn urba n wome n cove rs th e full s pe c trum from full cove r-up with a niqab to fu ll cove r-up with fa ce ma ke -up.
“Th e full n iqa b with only a s lit for the e ye s [s e e ph oto] would ra re ly be s e e n in E g ypt toda y unle s s th e we a re r wa s ma king a politica l s ta te me nt.”
Ahdaf Soueif, Guardian Weekend, 2001, photo: Judah Passow/Network
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“Th e re a re s e ve ra l ve rs ions of th e Is la mic cos tume , s ome of wh ich a re motiva te d le s s by re lig ion a nd more by fa s h ion. Olde r wome n, for e xa mple , find long e r dre s s e s a nd ha ir-cove ring turba ns more comforta b le a nd fla tte ring a nd if a s ke d will a ns we r th a t wh ile ins pire d by wh a t th e y cons ide r th e pre ce pts of th e ir re lig ion to dre s s mode s tly, th e y dre s s in th is wa y ma inly be ca us e it h a s be come fa s h iona b le in th e ir c irc le s to do s o. S uch a modifie d s tyle , th oug h re a ch ing to th e a nkle s a nd th e wris ts , is ch a ra c te riz e d ofte n by its c los e r fit. To puris ts of th e funda me nta lis t move me nt it is too re ve a ling of th e fig ure . Th e “s ta nda rd funda me nta lis t” ve rs ion flows from th e s houlde r to a nkle , us ua lly in one s ombre color, conce a ling th e outline s of th e fig ure a s comple te ly a s pos s ib le . The h e a d cove ring s urrounds the fa ce like a nun’s cowl a nd fa lls loos e ly to th e s h oulde r. A s ubs idiz e d ve rs ion of th is s tyle is s old by funda me nta lis t org a niz a tions for 8E L ($12), ma king it ve ry e conomica l.”
Family in Contemporary Egypt, Andrea B.Rugh, 1984 Abbas/Magnum 2001
Members of a Rosetta Women’s Club.
Insight Magazine, 2002
Members of Faculty and Administration, Misr International University.
TeenStuff magazine, 2002
Cairo wedding anniversary party.
Hisham Labib/Atef Naguib, Cleo magazine, 2002
Cairo women at a fundraising brunch.
Hisham Labib/Atef Naguib, Cleo magazine,2002
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E ve ryda y C loth e sE ve ryda y C loth e s
Outdoors - in s tre e t, fa rm or de s e rt – E g ypt’s
d is tinc t e th n ic g roups s till we a r th e ir tra d itiona l c loth e s wh ile oth e r wome n c ontinue to
e xpre s s th e ir pe rs ona litie s th roug h ite ms a nd de ta ils o f
dre s s .
B e douin wome n.
The La nd of E g ypt, R obe rt F e dda n, 1939
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Aba bde g irl from th e mounta in a re a ne a r th e R e d S e a .
Nicholas Biegman, 1991
Ca iro.
Randa Sheath, 2002
A s tre e t s ce ne in S iwa .
J e a n-Dominique Da lle t, Mé dite rra né e Ma g a z ine , 2001
Nub ia n wome n we a ring th e ir ch a ra c te ris tic tra ns pa re nt b la ck ove r-dre s s ove r a colourful unde r-dre s s .
Rick Strange and Steve Day, 1990s
Going to work, Ca iro.
Kristie Burns, MERIP, 1994
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Indoors , wom e n’s c loth e s c ontinue to illus tra te s im ila rity a nd d iffe re nc eIndoors , wom e n’s c loth e s c ontinue to illus tra te s im ila rity a nd d iffe re nc e
A m othe r in tra d itiona l dre s s s its proudly with h e r e duc a te d c h ildre n in the E urope a n-s tyle re c e ption room of a tra ns itiona l m iddle -c la s s fa m ily.
Rugh, 1984
Inte rior o f a Coptic c h urc h , Ca iro.
Denis Dailleux, Méditerranée Magazine, 2001
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This s ec tion is a ‘cas e s tudy’ – looking c los e ly at s ome of the This s ec tion is a ‘cas e s tudy’ – looking c los e ly at s ome of the women in a s mall rural community. The s ame exerc is e could women in a s mall rural community. The s ame exerc is e could
be done in mos t areas o f the countries in this exhibition. be done in mos t areas o f the countries in this exhibition. Pers onal photos , text and res earch by Caroline Simps on.Pers onal photos , text and res earch by Caroline Simps on.
All thes e women are from the village of Qurna, on the wes t bank All thes e women are from the village of Qurna, on the wes t bank of the Nile at Luxor – they were born there , and with few of the Nile at Luxor – they were born there , and with few
exceptions have never trave lled far except in s ome cas es to exceptions have never trave lled far except in s ome cas es to Mecca.Mecca.
The village is around, near and on the tombs and temples o f The village is around, near and on the tombs and temples o f Ancient Egypt which are vis ited by thous ands o f touris ts daily. Ancient Egypt which are vis ited by thous ands o f touris ts daily. Des pite this , Qurna is a very traditional Upper Egyptian village , Des pite this , Qurna is a very traditional Upper Egyptian village ,
with s trong extended familie s and re tention of o ld s oc ial with s trong extended familie s and re tention of o ld s oc ial cus toms . What can we learn of thes e women’s lives in what cus toms . What can we learn of thes e women’s lives in what they wear, knowing s ome of the reas ons behind each photo?they wear, knowing s ome of the reas ons behind each photo?
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His toryHis tory
Th e pe ople o f Qurna a re de s c e nda nts o f h is toric ind ig e nous c om m unitie s p lus B e dou in Ara b , a fe w B e rb e rs a nd a fe w pe ople from th e balad e s -S udan. Th oug h onc e a ve ry im porta nt Coptic Ch ris tia n a re a , th e loc a l c om munity g ra dua lly c onve rte d to Is la m
a nd now th e re is on ly a s m a ll m inority o f Coptic fa m ilie s . Th e tra d itiona l oc c upa tion is fa rm ing , but a re viva l o f a nc ie nt/ne w c ra fts ,
a rc h a e o log ic a l e xc a va tion, a nd oth e r tra de s a s s oc ia te d with h e rita g e a nd ma s s touris m invo lve th e m a jority o f th e a dult
popula tion in s ome wa y.
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De ta il o f dra wing of 1824 s h owing fa mily in courtya rd dra wn by long te rm re s ide nt, 1824.
Robert Hay, British Library MSS
De ta il o f pa inting by vis iting a rtis t/tra ve lle r, 1842.
Willia m P rins e p, Ma rtyn Gre g ory Ga lle ry
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P os tca rd photo c .1895 – s ome young a nd olde r loca l wome n e a rne d mone y by
pos ing for touris ts .
Wome n vis iting – not pos ing for touris ts , pos tca rd c .1910.
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Wome n ha ppy to be ph otog ra phe d by a n a nonymous touris t, 1959.
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“S e x is a noth e r crite ria for two de fin ite s oc ia l g roups : the world of me n a nd th e world of wome n. In th is community it is unth inka b le to ha ve fre e mixing be twe e n th e two worlds , or th a t a th ing done by one s e x c a n
a ls o be done by a me mbe r of the oth e r s e x. …. While wome n a re e xpe c te d to a dorn the ms e lve s with e a rring s , nos e ring s , koh l for th e e ye s , fing e r ring s , a nkle ts , h e nna for th e pa lms (a lmos t a n orna me nt in
e ve ry s e ns e ), me n a re s uppos e d to re fra in. More ove r wh ile me n s h a ve or cut th e ir h a ir, wome n le a ve it to g row a s long a s pos s ib le a nd ne ve r cut it. Wh ile me n we a r pa nts , wome n do not; wh ile wome n’s s pe e ch is us ua lly s prinkle d with words in th e d iminutive , me n a re not e xpe cte d to follow th is h a b it; wh ile wome n ca rry
th ing s on the ir h e a ds , me n ne ve r do s o, a nd only ca rry th ing s e ith e r in th e ir ha nds , or on th e ba ck or s h oulde rs …..”
Growing up in an Egyptian Village – Silwa, Province of Aswan, Hamed Ammar, 1954
Wome n colle c ting s ug a r ca ne , 1910-14.
Dawson, Cambs. County Library
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Ha jja Aye s h a , widow for ove r 20 ye a rs , ra is e d th re e ch ildre n a lone . Ve ry de vout a nd pra ys a t e ve ry pra ye r time , a lwa ys we a rs b la ck a nd is cove re d indoors a nd out. No s chooling , not lite ra te , g oe s ne a rly e ve ry da y to fa rm he r s ma ll pa rce l of la nd 1.5 km a wa y a nd owns la rg e h ous e . Allowe d me to ph otog ra ph h e r a fte r four ye a rs ’ a cqua inta nce providing no-one in th e villa g e s e e s th e ph oto.
F a tima , da ug h te r of Aye s h a , in th e ir courtya rd we a ring c loth e s boug h t s pe c ia lly for th e E id. S h e mig h t g o vis iting but more like ly h ope s to be vis ite d by frie nds . Mid-30s a nd s ing le , s e ldom g oe s be yond th e courtya rd g a te , s ome time s vis its h e r ne xt-door ne ig h bours , a nd ve ry infre que ntly g oe s to th e we e kly ma rke t 100 me tre s a wa y. Wh e n a s ma ll ch ild with h e r fa th e r s h e us e d to s e ll to touris ts - no s ch ooling , not lite ra te , s pe a ks s ome E ng lis h .The photo shows: Woman in her mid-30’s wearing red, black and gold flower patterned dress with a head drape of transparent black with gold edging.
F a tima wa nts a ph oto of h e rs e lf in a ll the fine ry th a t pos s ib ly no-one but me will e ve r s e e . The photo shows: Fatima in her main room, wearing a flower patterned dress on a pink background. Her black hair is in long braids with a golden ‘alice’ band. She looks at herself in a pretty hand mirror wearing a lovely gold and pearl necklace and earrings.
Ha ppy with food pre pa re d for two s pe c ia l fe ma le g ue s ts from Ca iro a nd UK. F a tima ch oos e s to le t h e r h a ir down.The photo shows: Fatima wears a blue house dress with her long hair down and loosely hanging past her shoulders. Balanced on her raised right hand is a large metal tray heaped with wonderful cut fresh fruit.
Moth e r a nd da ug h te r.Moth e r a nd da ug h te r.
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Moth e r, da ug h te r a nd oth e r re la tive s .Moth e r, da ug h te r a nd oth e r re la tive s .
S a ba h a t h e r h ome working with h e r hus ba nd. B e ing the only da ug h te r a nd e lde s t ch ild h e r fa th e r did not le t h e r a tte nd s ch ool. S h e now ha s four ch ildre n a nd h a s not g ot th e time to g o to the s pe c ia l s ch ool for loca l wome n.
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S a ba h in b la ck ove r-dre s s a nd s ca rf vis iting h e r pa re nt’s h ous e . He r moth e r, F a tima , in h ous e dre s s a nd s c a rf ca s ua lly tie d s h owing h e r ha ir a t h ome – a ls o no forma l s chool a nd
not lite ra te , moth e r of e ig h t ch ildre n.
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Moth e r, da ug h te r a nd oth e r re la tive s
F a tima , in be s t b lue dre s s cove re d by b la ck ove r-dre s s vis iting h e r de ce a s e d moth e r’s h ous e a t h e r h ole iya (one ye a r a fte r de a th comme mora tion). Th e fe ma le re la tive on th e rig h t now live s in Is ma ’iliya (S ue z Ca na l) a nd we a rs a s tyle ne ve r s e e n on a loca l wome n. Wa ida , F a tima ’s s is te r-in-la w, we a rs h e r be s t, ne w h ous e dre s s a nd ca s ua lly tie d s ca rf to e nte rta in h e r wome n re la tive s .
The photo shows: The relative from Isma’iliya is dressed top-to-toe in white. Her head cover is very tightly drawn under her chin and around her face and drapes over her shoulders like a large cape.
Wa ida with cous ins wh o live ne a r by. Wa ida is a t h e r h ome , th us s howing s ome h a ir – wh ile th e vis iting wome n h a ve tig h te r h e a ds ca rve s a nd wore b la ck ove r-dre s s e s to come to th e h ous e .
The photo shows: Three women wearing brightly coloured house dresses.
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P h otos to a dd to th e fa mily a lbum .P h otos to a dd to th e fa mily a lbum .
Th re e s is te rs (re la tive s of S a ba h ’s fa th e r) in th e ir h ous e h ig h on th e h ill. Th e two re s ide nt s is te rs le ft a nd rig h t (who s e ldom g o out) a re in typic a l, but be s t, h ous e dre s s e s a nd h a ve put on borrowe d lips tick, th e middle one is jus t vis iting a nd h a s ta ke n off h e r b la ck ove r-dre s s .
The photo shows: Two women wear bright house dresses that button from foot to neck. The third dress is a smock dress and only buttons to the chest. All dresses have long, full sleeves tightening at the wrist.The two resident sisters have brushed out their hair for the photo.
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Ha jja Na mit, h e r da ug h te r-in-la w, two g ra ndch ildre n a nd th e pig e ons . Th e Ha jja we a rs the pla its a nd h e a ds ca rf of th e olde r wome n. Ne ith e r of the s e wome n ofte n g oe s outs ide th e fa mily prope rty – only on cus toma ry vis its conne c te d with b irth s , de a th s a nd c los e fa mily we dding s .
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In th e fa mily courtya rd. Ha jja He ra – h ous e wife ,
moth e r of five , wife of s e nior monume nts ’ re s tore r, 2
ye a rs prima ry e duca tion – a nd he r da ug h te r Ama l a nd
two s ons . Ama l – s e conda ry e duca tion,
s tude nt a t loca l colle g e .
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F a tima ’s s is te r Amina , ma rrie d to F a tima ’s brothe r in la w, a la nd-owne r a nd drive r for touris ts (firs t cous in ma rria g e s a re ve ry common). Amina a ls o d id we ll a t s e conda ry s ch ool a nd is lite ra te in Ara b ic a nd pa rtia lly a ls o in E ng lis h .
S h e us ua lly we a rs s imple t-s h irts a nd b lous e s with trous e rs or s kirts in the home . S he occa s iona lly vis its loca l fa mily hous e s , but is not a llowe d to g o to th e loca l ma rke t. He r h us ba nd s a ys s h e ca n do th a t whe n s h e is old if s h e wa nts to.
The photo shows: Amina with her arms around two of her sons, wearing a white t-shirt and a simple headscarf is tied at the back of her neck.
Amina brus h e d h e r h a ir out s pe c ia lly a nd put on he r s ma rt s h oe s a nd s kirt s o s he could ha ve a n ice p ic ture for th e fa mily a lbum, (1998).
The photo shows: Amina is indoors, in her main sitting room, wearing black high heel shoes and a mid-calf length patterned skirt on a black background.
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Na djua , unma rrie d, Unive rs ity g ra dua te , te a che s E ng lis h a t a loca l s ch ool. S h e put on h e r work c lothe s s pe c ia lly to ha ve th is photo ta ke n. Norma lly s h e cha ng e s into more ca s ua l, s imple r c lothe s a t home , (1997). S h e is now ma rrie d to a loca l ph a rma c is t, h a s two ch ildre n, a nd no long e r
works a s a te a ch e r.
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Ha jja S a ye da a nd he r two da ug hte rs -in-la w a nd th e two ne w g ra ndch ildre n. Th e Ha jja ha s h e r ha ir in pla its broug h t to th e front with a b la ck s c a rf in a s tyle of th e olde r Qurna wome n. Th e y ke e p a s ma ll g e ne ra l s h op a t th e s ide of the h ous e a nd a s ke d me to c a ll to ta ke th is ph oto for the fa mily colle c tion.
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Th e s is te r a nd s is te r-in-la w of Abd e ’J a ’a la n, th e wood-ca rve r, live low down th e h ill a nd ofte n ca ll touris ts in to s e e th e ir h ous e a nd the ir brothe r’s work. It would be ina ppropria te for th e m to jus t we a r h ous e dre s s e s . Th e one on the le ft we a rs a b la ck working dre s s , wh ile th e oth e r ha s on a n ove r-dre s s with buttons a ll down th e front – both ve ry typica l of lowe r-
c la s s a nd working wome n.
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F a tima in h e r g a rde n - s e conda ry e duca tion, lite ra te in Ara b ic a nd pa rtia lly a ls o in E ng lis h . Da ug h te r of le a rne d S h e ikh , hote l-owne r a nd la nd-owne r. Wife of la nd-owne r a nd h ote l ma na g e r. (1996)
B e fore s h e h a d ch ildre n F a tima wore we s te rn-s tyle s h irts with s kirts or s la cks (a s h e re ), now with two ch ildre n s h e norma lly we a rs a va ria nt of th e typica l E g yptia n h ous e dre s s worn by mos t oth e r loca l wome n. F a tima would like to h a ve a n office job ove r in Luxor, but he r h us ba nd ins is ts
s h e s ta y a t h ome .
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Coptic we a ve r. Th e re a re no vis ib le d iffe re nce s in dre s s for working Coptic wome n in th e
old pa rt of Qurna . Ove r in Luxor, a nd for th e young e r, e duca te d g e ne ra tion, s tyle s
h a ve cha ng e d with th e time s .
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Th e c a m e ra doe s n’t lie , but …… Th e c a m e ra doe s n’t lie , but …… Th e s e two ph otos of loc a l s c h ool Th e s e two ph otos of loc a l s c h ool
c h ildre n s h ow th e ‘prob le m s ’ o f us ing c h ildre n s h ow th e ‘prob le m s ’ o f us ing s ing le im a g e s to te ll a s tory. E ve ry s ing le im a g e s to te ll a s tory. E ve ry
ima g e h a s to be c onte xtua lis e d, a nd ima g e h a s to be c onte xtua lis e d, a nd th e re is m ore th a n one pe rs on’s th e re is m ore th a n one pe rs on’s
ve rs ion o f c onte xt pe r ima g e . Th e ve rs ion o f c onte xt pe r ima g e . Th e two p ic ture s c ould be us e d to ‘prove ’ two p ic ture s c ould be us e d to ‘prove ’
ve ry d iffe re nt th ing s a bout s c h ool ve ry d iffe re nt th ing s a bout s c h ool c h ildre n a nd Is la m ic obs e rva nc e s in c h ildre n a nd Is la m ic obs e rva nc e s in
Qurna .Qurna .
One morning I wa s wa yla id with my ca me ra by a g roups of kids I kne w s lig h tly a s th e y we re on th e ir wa y to s chool. Th e y wa nte d a ph oto o f
th e ms e lve s , a s a g roup of frie nds a nd re la tive s , for th e ms e lve s , a nd kne w I would g ive th e m copie s la te r. Th e y do not come from rich or conformis t
fa milie s a nd th e y a re we a ring a typic a l informa l lot of c loth e s th e y norma lly we a r to s ch ool.
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Th is othe r ph oto wa s ta ke n by a profe s s iona l F re nch , ma le , ph otog ra ph e r e s pe c ia lly for a book of photos a bout the villa g e . Th e y h a d dre s s e d up for th is ph oto, a s e ve ry g roup of s ch ool-ch ildre n doe s for th e a nnua l S ch ool P h oto. Th e g irls wh o a re ne a te s t a nd mos t conforming in dre s s h a ve be e n move d to th e front, a nd c le a n he a d-s ca rve s mus t h a ve be e n ha nde d out s pe c ia lly. Howe ve r, in th e book it a ppe a rs a s a typica l ph oto of loca l g irls in s ch ool.