here's the catch
DESCRIPTION
Multi-part section on summer dining for June issue of ImproperTRANSCRIPT
hef/owner of
Hamersley’s Bistro
His seafood sanctuaries:
Captain Marden’s, 279Linden St., Wellesley (781-
235-0860); Twin Seafood, 2 Church St.,West Concord (978-371-9030)Why he likes them: “Food gets too fancysometimes, in my opinion. These are reallysimple places. I used to get seafood [to serveat the Bistro? –NA] at Captain Marden’sbefore they moved their warehouse. I lovetheir chowder and fried fish sandwich. AndTwin Seafood is a retail fish place with alunch counter. I get their clam rolls withextra tartar sauce. I’m a fried-clam-a-holic.”What he eats: Captain Marden’s: NewEngland clam chowder ($3.50–$4.95),classic fish sandwich ($6.50); TwinSeafood: Clam roll ($9.98)
executive chef at
Beacon Hill Bistro
His seafood sanctuary:
The Barnacle, 141 Front St.,Marblehead (781-631-4236)
Why he likes it: “This is really a guilty-pleasure question. [It] overlooks the ocean.It’s one of those old-school seafood joints.In the city, you can’t find that type ofsimplicity. The new chefs—they don’t cooklike that anymore.”What he eats: Fried clams ($19.95)
chef/owner of Oleana
Her seafood sanctuary:
Belle Isle Lobster & Seafood,1267 Saratoga St., Boston(617-567-1619)
Why she likes it: “Belle Isle is the only secretI’ve got. It’s a down ’n’ dirty counter place,and it’s the best deal in town. They’ve gothuge portions, and the lobster roll is the bestlobster roll outside of Maine. It’s a half-pound of meat. That’s all there is. And atiny hint of mayo. It’s to die for.” What she eats: Lobster roll ($15.99)
chef/owner of Sage
His seafood sanctuaries:
Morse Fish Co., 1401 Wash-ington St., Boston (617-262-9375); Yankee Lobster Co.,
300 Northern Ave., Boston (617-345-9799)Why he likes them: “I go to both of theseplaces when I’m out buying seafood.They’ve both got retail takeout counterswith places to sit down. The lobster rolls [atMorse] are really superfresh and notexpensive, and the fried clams are alsogreat. And the swordfish [at YankeeLobster] is also really solid.”What he eats: Morse Fish Co.: Lobster saladsandwich ($12.95); Yankee Lobster Co.:Broiled swordfish dinner ($12.95)
executive chef/owner of Stella
His seafood sanctuaries:
Neptune Oyster; HinghamLobster Pound, 4 Broad CoveRd., Hingham (781-749-1984)
Why he likes them: “In the city, I likeNeptune Oyster. Besides their oysters, theyhave great chowder. I like it for itssimplicity, authenticity and attention todetail with flavors. Otherwise, I love theHingham Lobster Pound. This is a sit-on-the-car kind of place—a box on the side ofthe road. Basically you just order your friedclams and a couple sodas and sit on thetrunk of the car. It’s great summer-day stuff.”What he eats: Neptune Oyster: NewEngland clam chowder ($9.50); HinghamLobster Pound: Fried clams ($TK)\
chef/owner,
Craigie Street Bistrot
His seafood sanctuary:
Woodman’s of Essex 121 MainSt., Essex (978-768-6451)
Why he likes it: “I grew up fishing on theVineyard, so I’m a seafood snob. I wish therewere more good, casual seafood places;they’re hard to find in Boston. But I reallylike Woodman’s. I drive up there and hitsome antiques stores. It’s always a good time.”What he eats: Fried clams (market price)
chef/owner of East Coast Grill
and All Star Sandwich Bar
His seafood sanctuary:
The Back Eddy, 1 Bridge Rd.,Westport (508-636-6500)
Why he likes it: “This place is the epitome ofsummer. It’s a tourist restaurant and lots ofpeople are on vacation. They’re catchingfish and bringing them in. Everything islocally caught and locally raised. Oystersfrom Sakonnet. Clams from Westport.Lobsters are caught right off the dock. Theyeven get striped bass sometimes.”What he eats: Whitefish ($TK)
executive sous chef at
Eastern Standard
His seafood sanctuary:
The Barking Crab, 88 SleeperSt., Boston (617-426-2722)
Why he likes it: “The ambiance is awesome.It’s simple, and they’re not trying to make itinto something else. It’s a combination ofcasual and feel-good, and it’s in the city, soit’s jumping and crowded in the afternoon,because people get done with work and justwalk over there. I love their crabcakeburger. It’s a bit more refined than acrabcake—crunchy on the outside andsteamy on the inside.”What he eats: Barking Crab cake burger ($11)
chef/owner of Tremont 647,
Sister Sorel and Rouge
His seafood sanctuary:
Dbar, 1236 Dorchester Ave.,Boston (617-265-4490)
Why he likes it: “Cheap seafood is anoxymoron, but I really like Dbar. The chef[name? –NA] is young and up-and-coming.He’s really good, and all his entrees areunder $20.”What he eats: Softshell crabs ($TK),haddock ($TK)
executive chef at Troquet
His seafood sanctuary:
Neptune Oyster, 63 SalemSt., Boston (617-742-3474)Why he likes it: “I love their
fried belly clams. And, of course, theoysters. I like the Alaskas and the Duxburys.Their softshells are also great, when theyhave them. It’s the best deal for the money.”What he eats: Fried clams (market price),oysters (market price), softshell crabs(market price)
Scott Herbert
Andy Husbands
Russell Ferguson
Chris Schlessinger
Tony Maws
Evan Deluty
Anthony Susi
Ana Sortun
Jason Bond
Gordon Hamersley
JUNE 13 – 26, 2007 THE IMPROPER BOSTONIAN 3938 THE IMPROPER BOSTONIAN JUNE 13 – 26, 2007
YOU CRAVE CHEESESTEAKS, you go to Philly. Gotta have fork-tender barbecue? Go South, young man. But when thesnow finally melts, the All-Star break approaches andRoute 3 is a parking lot of beachgoers headed to the Cape,Bostonians want nothing more (or less) than a mouthful ofour local claim to fame—a mound of just barely mayon-naised lobster meat on a toasted bun or fried clam belliespiled high in a paper bag—to feel like summer’s in fullswing. Same goes for this town’s top chefs. Sure, diningat classy joints with state-of-the-art menus and exotic rawmaterials—dehydrated honey, coconut froth, etc.—is alwaysa treat. But this is simple seafood country, and not evenchefs with the most refined talents and honed palates canresist seeking out, as Troquet executive chef Scott Herbert
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