Heat Transfer VinylFrequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: What do I need before I start?

A: Getting started is simple! You’ll need an idea for a design,

something to put that design on and then the fun stuff. Grab some

ImPRESSED Vinyl™ heat transfer vinyl and something to cut it

with. This can include a Silhouette or Cricut machine; scissors; or

an Exacto knife if you are more old-fashioned.

Q: What settings should I use on my machine?

A: Always refer to your manufacturer suggested settings. Our vinyl

is a smooth polyurethane (pu) material. We always recommend a

test cut. We have created a thorough Machine Setting Chart for the

most commonly used machines for you to reference when

choosing a setting.

Pro Tip:

ALWAYS do a test

cut in the corner before

cutting the entire design

– see pages 5 and 6 of

this guide. If your blade

is dull, you’ll want to

manually adjust the

depth until you get a

clean cut. Use a needle

to make sure inside

your blade has no scrap

pieces of vinyl or paper

stuck on it.

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Q: Does your vinyl come with the transfer film on it?

A: Yes! Each sheet of vinyl has a clear carrier sheet.

Q: On which side do I cut the HTV?

A: Our vinyl has a shiny side and a matte side. Always place

the HTV on your mat with the shiny side down. The shiny

side of the material is the clear carrier sheet. The carrier sheet

holds your design in place while applying to your garment. The

carrier sheet is not intended to be cut during the cutting

process. This is why you always need to mirror your design

before cutting. During heat application, the carrier side

(shiny side) will be face up on your garment. Remember to

use some Teflon to protect your design when applying

heat. So…mirror your image; cut with the shiny side down

and iron with the shiny side up

Q: What heat setting should I use?

A: Just like with the machine settings you should check out

your manufacturer’s suggested setting. But for more info, you

can refer to our heat setting charts on the next two pages

Q: Do you have to wait until the vinyl is cool before

removing the clear film?

A: Yes! After you cut your design and pressed it, you will want

to allow the design to cool for 45-60 seconds before peeling

of the clear carrier sheet. Our Vinyl is COLD Peel. Removing

the carrier sheet while still warm or hot may cause the design

to stretch or warp as the carrier is being removed.

Heat Transfer VinylFrequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

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Heat Settings for Iron or Heat Press

Heat Transfer VinylFrequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

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Heat Settings for Cricut Easypress™

Heat Transfer VinylFrequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

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Heat Transfer VinylHow to Perform a Test Cut

Performing a test cut using Silhouette Studio

After selecting your cut settings, it’s important to always perform a test

cut. This will ensure a good cut every time without wasting a large

amount of HTV. If your test cut didn’t cut smoothly, adjust the blade

depth or the force (for thicker materials) and do another test cut until

it’s perfect.

To perform a test cut, select your cut settings. Then before clicking on

the Send button, click Test and your machine will cut a tiny square with

a triangle in it in the corner of the HTV.

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Heat Transfer VinylHow to Perform a Test Cut

Performing a test cut using Silhouette Studio

Use a pair of craft tweezers and begin weeding the test cut.

As you can see here, the middle triangle started to lift off as

well. This means the test cut wasn’t deep enough.

Repeat the test cut and adjust the blade depth or increase the

force. This second test cut was much better:

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Heat Transfer VinylTroubleshooting Common Issues

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Your design cut backwards

Remember to mirror your image before cutting. In Silhouette

Studio, right-click your design and select flip horizontally. Don’t

forget to remove the original from the design screen before you

send it to cut.

Design didn’t cut all the way through and is difficult to

weed

There are several reasons this could happen:

• Your blade is dull or chipped

• The cut settings were not correct for the material

• There are scrap pieces stuck next to the blade

I don’t have a Teflon sheet

If you don’t have a Teflon sheet, a thin cloth or piece of

parchment paper will work as well. The purpose is to create a

heat barrier so you don’t burn your HTV from the direct heat of

the iron.

My heat transfer vinyl keeps lifting off when I try to peel

the carrier sheet off

Here are several reasons why your vinyl may not be sticking:

• You’re peeling it off before it has completely cooled (allow

45 sec – 1 minute to cool)

• You did not give the HTV enough time to adhere (some

heavy materials require a little more press time)

• Your iron isn’t hot enough

• You’re not applying enough pressure during

application (this is the most common issue – see next

page)

• You’ve pressed TOO long and the vinyl has melted and will

not stick

Heat Transfer VinylTroubleshooting Common Issues

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I am using a regular home iron – and the vinyl isn’t

adhering well.

• Use the highest cotton setting for your iron (no steam)

• With large designs, you will need to make sure you apply

the pressure evenly to every area.

• We don’t recommend using a padded ironing board or

anything that will impact you from getting a really firm

press. Use a hard heat resistant surface (e.g., a

countertop, floor or table).

• Press VERY HARD -- Good pressure is when your arms

literally shake from pushing down.

• You also need to make sure you are pressing for enough

time (25 secs per area)---a good rule of thumb to know if

you applied enough heat is if you are able to see the

weave of the fabric through the vinyl. If you can’t-- press for an additional 5 seconds in increments until you do.

The image to

the right an

example of a

good press

where you

can see the

fibers of the

cloth through

the vinyl

Heat Transfer VinylTroubleshooting Common Issues

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My heat transfer vinyl is starting to peel off after going

through the washing machine

Sounds like your vinyl didn’t adhere very well. Be sure to add

enough heat and pressure for a solid press on your fabric. For

longer-lasting HTV designs, wash inside out in cool/warm

water. Avoid very hot water & the dryer.

The vinyl is shrinking

You provided way too much heat

I completely ruined my shirt

Not necessarily, in certain situations you can remove a vinyl

image from a shirt:

Step 1: Use a regular iron set to medium heat

Step 2: Wrap the shirt over the iron: After your iron is heated up

to medium heat, place the shirt directly over the iron, so the

backside of the HTV is directly touching the iron. You want the

iron inside the shirt as shown.

Heat Transfer VinylTroubleshooting Common Issues

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Step 3: Pull the shirt tight:

Because plastic shrinks

when heated, and HTV is

thin plastic, stretching your

design over direct heat will

allow the vinyl to start

shrinking and melting. Be

VERY careful not to burn

your hands or fingers during

the process.

Step 4: weed off the design

from the shirt: Once the HTV

has been exposed to excess

heat, you’ll notice it starts to

shrink and get wrinkly. That’s

precisely what we want. Use

a pair of tweezers and gently

peel off the HTV

Step 5: There is one downside to removing heat transfer vinyl.

Your material may maintain some of the adhesive. On lighter

fabrics, it won’t show as much, but darker fabrics will be more

noticeable. This process works well if you are planning on re-

doing the design and placing it directly over the area where you

removed the incorrect design. If you want to keep the shirt blank

after HTV removal, you might still see remaining adhesive.